Technical Training 2014. confidential property of cbi laboratories, inc. ©2014 For over 30 years, CBI has been an industry leader in the development,

Technical Training2014

confidential property of cbi laboratories, inc. ©2014

For over 30 years, CBI has been an industry leader in the development, manufacturing, and packaging of superior quality, natural-based, European-style formulations for the professional skincare industry.

Founded in 1982 by two American gentlemen studying botanical skin care formulations in Europe.

Pioneered the use of botanicals in the United States.

Some botanical formulations still sold today are the exact “recipes” that were found in Europe.

Company History


Maintain a leadership position in identifying and incorporating advanced, innovative skincare technologies.

Continued pursuit in bringing first to market high technology performance ingredients along with proven botanicals.

Use highest quality ingredients possible at active levels combined with the safest preservatives.

Make products affordable to the spa/salon owner to maximize their profit potential.

CBI Philosophy


CBI Laboratories is one of the largest private label manufacturers in the United States.

CBI offers a lower investment and higher mark-up of 300% to 800%. You deal directly with the manufacturer – middleman.

Specialized knowledge of herbal and botanical infusions, marine extracts, beta glucans, antioxidants, peptides and many other unique ingredients.

We offer in-house imprinting options with minimums as low as 24 pieces per products, as well as, turn-key custom manufacturing.

Why CBI?


We Do Not Use We Avoid

Mineral Oil

Petrolatum

Isopropyl Myristate

Crude Lanolins

Formaldehyde

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

Mammal-Derived Ingredients

Harsh Emulsifiers

Known Sensitizers

Synthetic Dyes & Fragrances

Phthalates

Animal By-Products

Phosphates

Known Pore-Clogging Ingredients

Ingredient Innovations 2014


Waging War On Free Radicals

The human body is constantly under attack of free radicals.

Free radicals are highly reactive molecules (ROS) generated by the biochemical redox reactions that occur as part of normal cell metabolism, and by exposure to environmental factors: UV light, smoke, pollutants and gamma radiation.

Once formed, free radicals attack all structures (DNA, cell membranes, proteins) within the body.

As a result, free radicals have been implicated in numerous diseases and are the primary cause of aging.

Topical use of anti-oxidants is necessary to prevent damages caused by free radicals attacks.


Vitamin E and vitamin C interact with each other in the skin to protect against free radical attack

In 1991 scientists discover the latest technology to address the needs of aging skin–which leads to:Use of antioxidants in skincareVitamins A, C, E & Superoxide Dismutase (enzyme found in licorice) destroy free radicals on site

Legend: Symbol for highly reactive molecules

with free radical Symbol for free radicals, which

are trapped by vitamin E Symbol for regenerated molecules

without free radical

A “Radical” Breakthrough


Latest Advances in Antioxidants

Alpha Lipoic Acid – also called Thiocitic Acid, is a molecule consisting of a sulfur and a hydrogen atom; derived from dietary sources (spinach, brewer's yeast).

• “UNIVERSAL” antioxidant both lipid and water soluble• Protects the integrity of the cell membrane, as well as offsets cell stress• Researchers claim it is 400 times more potent than Vitamin C or E (As a

perk, it even recycles C and E, enhancing their effectiveness)• Beyond anti-free radical action, it also plays a role in cell energy,

contributing to a healthy looking glowing complexion

(Found in Face Firming Complex)



DMAE (di-methyl-amino-ethanol) Chemically known as dimethyl amino ethanol, it is a naturally occurring substance and has a significant firming effect on skin.

• In a study published in Skin Research and Technology Volume 8 Page 164 - August 2002, DMAE was shown to produce a firming effect on the skin

• This mechanism may be due to the fact that DMAE functions as a cell membrane stabilizer

• Based on clinical reports, DMAE may be the first topical antioxidants that can help firm sagging skin

(Found in Face Firming Complex, Amino-Lift & Line Filler)



Vitamin C Ester (ascorbyl palmitate – oil soluble) Scientifically advanced form of Vitamin C (created by adding a fatty acid from palm oil), with solubility that allows absorption to take place more easily than other forms of vitamin C.

• Boosts protective antioxidant action • Helps repair past damage by aiding new collagen production



Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable vitamin C derivative that liberates the free vitamin (L-Ascorbic Acid) upon contact with skin.

• Provides antioxidant properties and protects the skin's cells from environmental damage such as sunlight and smoke

• Helps promote collagen formation, prevents signs of skin aging, contributes to appearance of even skin tone

• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an approved skin lightening quasi-drug ingredient in Japan

• Shelf life of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is 3 years

(Found in Décolleté & Bust Contouring Crème, Skin Brightening Gel & Face Refresher)



Emblica Cascading Antioxidant – a well-defined and patent-protected plant extract isolated from the fruit of the Asian plant Phyllanthus emblica (Emblica officinalis).

• Emblica’s rich in low molecular weight tannins are by nature colored entities (a.k.a. polyphenolics)

• Clinical tests on human volunteers showed that Emblica, minimizes the appearance of freckles/age spots and is also an effective antioxidant and matrix metalloprotease inhibitor (or MMPi)

• Completed studies demonstrate that, as an antioxidant, Emblica is a broad-spectrum quencher of free radicals (cascading-effect) and an inhibitor of collagenase

(Found in Eyebright Intensive Eye Crème)


Hispanic Skin


Asian Skin


African Skin



Edelweiss (INCI Name: Leontopodium alpinum extract) • Clinically proven high-performance botanical; anti-oxidant/free-radical

scavenger, excellent soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.• Functions:

• Anti-oxidant activity• Inhibition of cell peroxidation• Anti-inflammatory • Anti-bactericidal

(Found in Daily Mineral Guard SPF 25)




Cutting Edge Ingredients

NECTAPURE® (INCI name: Buddleja davidii and Thymus vulgaris): • A special extract blend of delicate but pollution-resistant plants combined

with the Swiss Mountain Water, clinically proven to fight against “city stress" and improve skin moisture levels.

• Properties:• Anti-oxidative• Radical protecting• Anti-pollution treatment• Moisturizing

• Functions:• Anti-aging (anti-oxidant, sun-damage protection,

anti-pollution)• Moisturizing, soothing and healing• Anti-microbial






Phytosan®, (INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) glycine soja (soybean) seed extract): Innovative repair ingredient isolated from soybean proteins.

Unique Characteristics: Built in wrinkle radar—seeks out age damage and repairs it before it shows on your skin. So it not only helps slow down and reverse the signs of aging, but stops wrinkles before they start!• Clinical studies: • 30% reduction of skin reddening from UV irradiation• 60% increase in protein biosynthesis• 27%increase in collagen biosynthesis• 25%increase in skin firmness• 22%increase in skin smoothness• 23% reduction in depth of wrinkles


*Phytosan® is a registered trademark of CLR: Chem. Lab. Dr. Kurt Richter, GmbH


The Power of Peptides

Latest Innovation in Skin Care Technology


A New Biological Era

Biotechnology is about understanding, modifying and ultimately exploiting proteins for new and useful purposes.



What are peptides?• Peptides (from the Greek word “Peptos” meaning digestible) are the

family of short molecules formed from the linking of various amino acids.• The link between one amino acid residue and the next is amide bond or

a peptide bond.• A chain of two or more amino acids joined together that build protein.

Formation of a peptide:



How do peptides work?

• Stimulate cell activity by interacting with molecules that signal cells to produce more collagen

• Act as a messenger between the epidermis and the dermis

• Recent studies show that “lipo-peptides” help attract cells to other sites that need repair and contributes to the reconstruction of the dermis

• The addition of Ceramide 2 strengthens and repairs the skin’s barrier, improves cell cohesion, enhancing water retention and reducing skin dryness (See Dermaxyl™)


Why Peptides?

Major companies launching more products that contain peptides because of their proven anti-aging benefits

Delivery systems are playing an increasingly important role in the development of skin care products

The technology behind them continues to become more sophisticated

1930’s

GELATIN

1960’s

ALBUMIN 1980’s

Collagen/

Elastin

1990’s

Plant Proteins 2002

PEPTIDES

History of Protein Trends


Amino Acids: Building blocks that make up all peptides and proteins

The 20 Amino Acids


Alanine

Arginine

Asparagine

Aspartic Acid

Cysteine

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Leucine

Lysine

Methionine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Threonine

Tryptophan

Tyrosine

Valine


Untangling the Peptide Terminology

Oligopeptide• Small peptides containing 8 up to 24 amino acids

PolyPeptides• Large peptides of 30 or more amino acids (AKA–proteins)

Di, Tri, Tetra, Penta, Hexa, Hepta - Peptides• Identifies the number of amino acids in a peptide chain• Alanyl-Valyl is a “Di” peptide• Alanyl-Valyl-Glycine is a “Tri” peptide• Lysyl-Glycyl-Tyrosyl-Glycine is a “Tetra” peptide• Lysyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine is a “Penta” peptide

(Sequence for Matrixyl - attached with fatty ester Palmitoyl)• Glycyl-Valyl-Tyrosyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine is a”Hepta”

peptide


1. Helps peptide pass through the skin’s barrier (AKA the Stratum Corneum)

2. Target key cell sites

3. Perform time-release delivery

“Carrier” Molecules Are Attached to Peptides


“Lipo” molecules

• Pamitoyl

• Acetyl

• Oleyl

• Myristyl

Peptide “Carrier” Molecules


MATRIXYL® (INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3) (Lysyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine):

• This peptide material helps to reduce surface depth of wrinkles but unlike Retinol is less irritating and faster acting

• Creates a neo-synthesis of collagen and fibronectin

• Clinical Test results show that when the proper percentage is used twice a day for two to six months there is a reduction of deep surface wrinkles by 68 and 90%

(Found in Botanical Bio Peptide Concentrate)

The One That Started it All!


Self-Assessment:

75% of the volunteers stated that the product SMOOTHES the skin

52% observed a decrease in wrinkles and crows feet.

Clinical Studies: Matrixyl™


Peptides

ARGIRELINE® (INCI: Acetyl hexapeptide-3): Neuro-peptide which inhibits wrinkle formation by preventing the transmission of nerve impulses to the muscles.

• Reduces the degree of existing facial wrinkles

• Controlled studies demonstrated that facial wrinkle depth can be reduced, especially in the forehead and around the eyes

• Laboratory tests revealed that the severity of wrinkles decreased up to 27% after 30 days of treatment

• Skin topographic analysis performed on healthy female volunteers confirmed the validation of the proposed biochemical mechanism of action

(Found in Line Filler)


Peptides

DERMAXYL™ (INCI: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate -Tribehenin - Ceramide 2 -PEG 10 Rapeseed Sterol -Palmitoyl Oligopeptide): A new anhydrous ingredient based on peptide technology, utilizes a Matrikine (a.k.a. Peptide) and Ceramide 2 blend.

• Clinical Studies show that DERMAXYL™ helps attract cells to sites that need repair and contributes to the reconstruction of the dermis

• Ceramide 2 strengthens and repairs the skin’s barrier. It improves cell cohesion, enhancing water retention and reducing skin inflammation and dryness

(Found in Botanical Bio-Peptide Intensive Crème)


Clinical Study: The anti-wrinkling efficacy of DERMAXYL™

After once daily application, for 56 days the results were dramatic:

Volume of main wrinkle reduced on average by 13.7% … and reached as much as 36%!

Depth of main wrinkle reduced on average by 10.1% … and as much as 27%!

Surface area of deep wrinkles reduced on average by 40.3% ... and as much as 98%!

Medium wrinkles reduced on average by 24.5% ... and as much as 86%!


Clinical Studies: Dermaxyl™


Peptides

CALMOSENSINE™ (INCI: Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester): New peptide promotes Well-Being by reducing the perception of unpleasant sensations.

• Promotes the release of pro-endorphins, provides a tranquilizing effect on the skin

• Relieves tension, inhibits muscle contractions responsible for wrinkles and expression lines

• Modulates the perception of temperature, chemical aggressions, and tactile sensation

• First cosmetic active ever shown to reduce the emotional response to tactile aggression

(Found in Line Filler)


Peptides

Matrixyl3000™ - (INCI name: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3): Based on peptide technology MATRIXYL™ utilizes two matrikines (a.k.a. Peptides) for their synergistic effect in the neo-synthesis of collagen.

• Clinical studies show that Matrixyl 3000 lifts and firms the skin, significantly reducing the appearance of wrinkles

• After only 2 months, the surface area of the skin occupied by deep wrinkles was reduced by 45% on average

(Found in AminoLift & Peptide Activator)


Clinical Studies: Matrixyl™3000


Peptides

Eyeliss™ (INCI: Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3): Combines three active molecules used specifically in eye care preparations.

• Shown to reduce under-bag volume by improving the lymphatic circulation and the firmness and elasticity of the surrounding delicate eye tissue

• Also decreased the inflammatory response in the eye area

• Study with 20 volunteers, using an application in a gel formula, twice a day for less than two months, there was a decrease of under bag volume of 70% by the last day

(Found in Eyebright Anti-Puffiness Gelee & Eyebright Intensive Eye Crème)


Topometry studies of chronic bags show that the height of the bag is significantly reduced after treatment with EYELISS.

Clinical Studies: Eyeliss™

• 65% of panellists showed a measurable improvement after only 28 days!

• 70% of the panelists showed a measurable improvement after 56 days!


Peptides

MaxiLip™ (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide): Anhydrous peptide blend helps to restore glycosaminoglycans and collagen, increasing lip moisture and adding volume to improve the contour of the lips.• After 29 days of treatment with MAXI LIP™ …• Furrows were reduced by up to 30%• Lip moisture increased by as much as 60%• Lip volume increased by 40% on average


Latest Peptide Innovations


*SNAP-8® is a registered trademark/ingredient of Lipotec S.A. - North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.

Latest Peptide Innovations

SNAP-8® (INCI: Acetyl Octapeptide-3): A new neuro-octapeptide that is an elongation of the famous hexapeptide ARGIRELINE®.

• SNAP-8 reduces the surface depth of wrinkles on the face caused by the contraction of muscles through facial expression, especially the forehead and eye area.

(Found in AminoLift Peptide Complex)


Muscles are contracted when they receive neurotransmitter signals from certain receptors.

The SNARE (SNAp REceptor) complex is essential for this neurotransmitter release.

It is a ternary complex formed by the proteins VAMP, Syntaxin and SNAP-25 (SyNaptosomal Associated Protein).

Complex is like a cellular hook which captures vesicles and fuses them with the membrane for the release of neurotransmitter.

How Does SNAP-8® Work?


SNAP-8 competes with SNAP-25 for a position in the SNARE complex, thereby altering its formation.

If this complex is slightly destabilized, the vesicle can not release neurotransmitters efficiently and therefore muscle contraction is attenuated, preventing the formation of lines and wrinkles

How Does SNAP-8® Work?


It can be observed that the depth of the wrinkle has significantly decreased after 28 days of treatmentThe maximum reduction value found for SNAP-8 was – 63.13% after 28 days!

Clinical Studies: SNAP-8®


• Results compared to a previous test (October 2001) performed by same company using the same technique, testing Argireline®.

• The two extra amino acids from the SNAP25 sequence seems to moderately increase the anti-wrinkle activity.

• Final conclusion is that, both in vivo and in vitro efficacy testing suggests that SNAP-8 is approximately 30% more active than its parent peptide Argireline®.

SNAP-8® Clinical Evaluation


* Myoxinol® is a registered trademark/ingredient of Laboratoires Serobiologiques - division of Cognis France

Myoxinol LS 9736

Myoxinol® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (and) Dextrin): New oligopeptide complex obtained by the biotransformation of native proteins from the seeds of Hibiscus esculentus (okra). • First assessed using an in-vitro test on co-cultured muscle cell and

neuronal cells, substantiating the “muscle-relaxing” claim. • Use of MYOXINOL LS 9736 resulted in a significant reduction in muscle

cells contractions, the primary mechanical factor responsible for the appearance of dynamic facial wrinkles

• Contraction-inhibiting effect stops 24 hours after application, demonstrating the gentle character of the ingredient

• The anti-wrinkle activity of Myoxinol® is demonstrated by these clinical results: a 26% reduction of wrinkle depth after a 3-week treatment using an emulsion containing 1% Myoxinol®.

(Found in AminoLift Peptide Complex and Peptide Powder Peel)


Before treatment

After 3 weeks

Clinical Evaluation


Breakthrough Innovations

Latest Cutting-Edge Anti-Aging Ingredients


*MDI Complex is a registered trademark/ingredient of Atrium Biotechnologies

Latest Cutting-Edge Ingredients

MDI Complex, (INCI name: Glycosaminoglycans):

A Mucopolysaccharide active ingredient clinically proven to decrease facial redness (rosacea) and significantly decrease the appearance of telangiectasia on the face.

Unique Characteristics:

Specifically inhibits the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes that degrade the skin’s collagen network.

Clinical studies: • 60% increase in skin barrier function after 2 weeks• 35% reduction in appearance of rosacea/spider veins after 4 weeks• 41% reduction in appearance of rosacea/spider veins after 8 weeks• 60% reduction of induced skin irritation

(Found in RosaCalm)


MDI Complex has been clinically shown to reduce the appearance of rosacea

Clinical Studies: MDI Complex


Reduction of the color intensity of the face by up to 41%

Clinical Studies: MDI Complex

KIGELINE® (INCI name: Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract): • Discovered in Africa by scientists researching indigenous plants and

fruit used by African tribes.

• An extract of the fruit of the Kigelia Africana tree.

• It contains flavonoids and steroidic saponosides that demonstrate superior firming properties – specifically in the bust area.

• This product is designed to tonify and harden the bust while improving the firmness and elasticity of the skin.


Latest Cutting-Edge Ingredients

Clinical Studies: Kigelia Africana Fruit

Product formulated with Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract applied once a day with a prolonged massage, covering the whole bust area and the neck during 4 weeks.

The 20 volunteers are between 30 and 45 year old women with at least one pregnancy, and a breast measurement less than 90 cm.

Clinical Results• The iconographic analysis on the volunteers allow to

determinate the distance mammilla /sternum, and estimate the efficiency of KIGELINE on the raising up of the breast.

• With 44% of the volunteers, we observe a tensor effect of the bust showing adiminution of the distance mammilla I sternum.

Overall Results• BUST FIRMNESS IMPROVEMENT = 50 %• CUTANEOUS FIRMNESS IMPROVEMENT = 55 %• CUTANEOUS ELASTICITY IMPROVEMENT = 70 %



Botanical Bio-Peptide Concentrate

Botanical Bio-Peptide Crème

Eyebright Anti-puffiness Gelee

Eyebright Intensive Eye Crème

Line Filler

Lip Treatment

Amino-Lift™ Peptide Complex

RosaCalm™ Skin Serum

Peptide Powder Peel

Peptide Activator

CBI Formulations with Peptides

Q:What antioxidant is considered a “UNIVERSIAL” antioxidant – meaning that it can penetrate both the water layer and lipid layer of the skin cells?

Alpha Lipoic Acid (a.k.a. Thiocitic Acid)

Q:What cascading antioxidant is clinically proven to improve pigmentation across all Fitzpatrick types (skin ethnicities)?

Phyllanthus emblica (Emblica officinalis)

Q: What plant-based ingredient acts like a built in wrinkle radar—seeks out age damage and repairs it before it shows on your skin. ?

Phytosan® —INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) glycine soja (soybean) seed extract

Q:What is the definition of a Peptide?

A chain of two or more amino acids joined together that build protein

Summary Q & A


Q:What helps peptides to pass through the skin’s barrier?

Attaching “Lipo” carrier molecules that are esters, and fatty acids which have stronger adherence to the skin

Q: What are di-, tri-, tetra, penta peptides?

The Greek nomenclature for identifying peptides based on the number of amino acids that constitute them

Q:What peptide reduces the appearance of wrinkle depth by 63.13% after 28 days of use?

SNAP-8® INCI: Acetyl Octapeptide-3 — A new neuro-octapeptide that is an elongation of the famous hexapeptide ARGIRELINE®.

Q: What are GAGS?

Acronym for Glycosaminoglycans - Naturally occurring mucopolysaccharides that produce and regulate water in the dermis – as well as improve facial redness and irritation

Summary Q & A



4201 Diplomacy Rd Ft. Worth, Texas 76155Phone: 972/241-7546 Fax: 972/241-7302

www.cbiskincare.com

“If you have a brand, and wish to creatively impact its future, we are here to help you make that happen.”

The CBI Advantage

Technical Training 2014. confidential property of cbi laboratories, inc. ©2014 For over 30 years, CBI has been an industry leader in the development,

Documents

attack of free radicals

free radicals attacks

cbi philosophy slide

free radical symbol

free radical attack

use of antioxidants

use of botanicals

company history slide