TAPPERS

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ! SPRING/SUMMER 2012

INSIDE:MEET

MARCOBICEGO

CELEBRATESPRING!

Fashion FavoritesWatchmaking:

The NextGeneration

Last Bid for Love

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As spring breathes new life into the world around us, we at Tapper’s are reflecting on the exciting new

opportunities that lie ahead for our business. Next month, we will be introducing a new brand concept,

Marlee’s by Tapper’s, which will open in Twelve Oaks Mall with a focus on sophisticated, stylish, high-

quality women’s accessories at a very appealing price point. This issue features a special introduction

to Marlee’s written by Marla Tapper Young and Leora Tapper, the faces and voices behind the new

venture.

The vibrant hues of spring flowers beginning to peek through the frozen ground are mirrored by the

beautiful new designs in fine jewelry, precision timepieces and gifts that you will find in the pages of

Accent and at all three Tapper’s locations. Bursting with color and sparkle, you will find a dazzling array

of choices as you look for gifts that will Mark the Moment® of Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and the many

graduations that take place at this time of the year.

We recently “sprung forward,” setting our watches to Daylight Savings Time. In this issue of Accent,

we are excited to present a special section devoted to the design and history of some of the most

prestigious and trendsetting watch brands in the world, all of which you can find at Tapper’s.

Enjoy your journey through Accent and by all means, please take some time to smell the flowers as they

begin to bloom!

Sincerely,

Howard Tapper Steven Tapper Marla Tapper YoungMark Tapper

DEARFRIENDS,

SOMERSET COLLECTION, TROY ORCHARD MALL, WEST BLOOMFIELD TWELVE OAKS MALL, NOVI

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Contents spring/summer 2012

FEATURES1 Welcome Letter

4 Community

6 Spotlight: Leading the Tapper’s Team

8 Happenings

10 Introducing Marlee’s by Tapper’s

12 Best Bets

22 Designers: Marco Bicego

24 Designers: Penny Preville

26 Profile: Forevermark

28 Profile: John Hardy

30 Red Carpet

32 Trends: Renewal

50 Perfect Gems

54 Spirits: Gin Blossoms

56 Wellness: Haute Healthcare

58 Travel: Eco-Immersion

60 End Page: Last Bid for Love

WATCH SECTION36 Watches at Tapper’s

38 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

42 Winders: Winding it Up

46 Profile: Michele Watches

48 Collecting: Time on His Side

DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY

WEST BLOOMFIELDORCHARD MALL

337 ORCHARD LAKE ROADWEST BLOOMFIELD, MI 48322

PHONE: (248) 932-7700FAX: (248) 932-7717

NOVITWELVE OAKS MALL

27716 NOVI ROADNOVI, MI 48377

PHONE: (248) 465-1800FAX: (248) 465-1818

TROYSOMERSET COLLECTION NORTH

2800 WEST BIG BEAVERTROY, MI 48084

PHONE: (248) 649-2000FAX: (248) 649-5076

WWW.TAPPERS.COM

C E OHOWARD TAPPER

P R E S I D E N TMARK TAPPER

V I C E P R E S I D E N T SSTEVEN TAPPER

MARLA TAPPER YOUNG

C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E RJEFFREY GARDEN

C H I E F F I N A N C I A L O F F I C E RROBERT HUTTER

C O M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E RKARYNNE NAFTOLIN

G R A P H I C D E S I G N E RTRACIE VOLETTI

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E RSTU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O RHANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O RJILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R LISA MONTEMORRA

D E S I G N E R SCYNTHIA LUCERO, JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E RPEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E OBRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O OMAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may varydepending on size, quality and availability. Jewelry has beenenlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices of dia-monds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While wehave made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the informationin this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or omissions.Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc,P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018,212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The pub-lishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicit-ed manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of thismagazine may be reproduced without written permission of thepublishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of BusinessJournals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office.Printed In The U.S.A.

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This year, Tapper’s annual coat drive surpassed any previous year’s goals by collecting and distributing close to 4,000 warm winter coats, gloves, hats, scarves and boots. This substantial increase in our totals was due in large part to a partnership with Morgan Stanley Smith Barney’s Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills and Troy offices, whose employees raised money internally and presented Tapper’s with a check for $16,018.20 to be used to purchase coats and other winter weather clothing items.

In addition to funds raised by Morgan Stanley Smith Barney employees, Tapper’s customers donated hundreds of coats and made cash donations towards the coat drive. Steven Tapper reflected on the generosity of Morgan Stanley Smith Barney, as well as all of the customers and community members who supported the Tapper’s Coat Drive. “Every person who helped this coat drive, by collecting coats, donating money or going through their own closets, should realize that they made a tremendous difference in people’s lives this winter. Every child who is now walking to school with a coat, hat and gloves knows that someone cares about them, really cares, that they be warm and comfortable in the cold – that is the real gift.”

COMMUNITYTAPPER’S 20TH ANNUAL COAT DRIVE

MAKING TIME FOR A GOOD CAUSE

donation ($10) to charity*. The program benefits a different charity every quarter. Since the program’s inception almost two years ago, Tapper’s has raised thousands of dollars for causes such as Kids Kicking Cancer, the Detroit Public Schools, Tapper’s Coat Drive, the John D. Dingell VA Medical Center and the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation. “Springing forward” is the perfect opportunity to change your watch batteries and take advantage of this wonderful program, so gather your watches* together and head into any one of Tapper’s three locations to “make time for a

good cause.”

*Limit three watches per customer please.

Coats were distributed to many organizations, including Orchards Children’s Services, the Detroit Housing Commission, Detroit Public Schools, Baldwin Church Center, Grace Centers for Hope, Mercy Primary Care Center and Kids Kicking Cancer.

“Making Time for a Good Cause” is a Tapper’s charitable initiative which provides complimentary simple watch battery changes in exchange for a suggested minimum

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PAUL RUJAN Manager, Tapper’s Somerset Collection. Five years with Tapper’s.

The only member of the managerial triumvirate who hails from Michigan, Paul began his career at Tapper’s managing the company’s Twelve Oaks store, going on to become the first manager at the Somerset location which opened in 2010. A huge Detroit Lions fan, Paul came to Tapper’s with 23 years of sales, training and managerial experience, and he brings excitement, dedication and knowledge to his team every day.

Paul continually expresses his appreciation for the fact that at Tapper’s, the primary focus is on providing excellent service to clients. “I am very passionate about what I do and really enjoy having fun with our clients, making sure that their experience at Tapper’s is uniquely wonderful.”

SPOTLIGHTLEADING THE TAPPER’S TEAM

ROBERT ARTELT Manager, Tapper’s West Bloomfield. Two years with Tapper’s.

Robert Artelt joins the Tapper’s management team with extensive experience in the world of luxury goods and service — as former Senior Vice President of Retail and Marketing for Mikimoto and Director of Fine Art Sales for Princess, Cunard and Holland America cruise lines. Having grown up in Chicago, joining Tapper’s brings Robert back to his Midwest roots, and he, his wife and daughter now call Michigan home. While in Chicago, Robert’s passion for charitable work was evident through his work with the Lincoln Park Zoo, the Chicago chapter of U.N.I.C.E.F., the M.S. Society and the Girl Scouts.

When he’s not working and building relationships with his clients, Robert notes that “while music, dance and the arts keep our family busy [his wife is an opera singer], football is our favorite pastime.” Robert’s family follows college teams and, of course, the Detroit Lions.

“Tapper’s is a wonderful family and organization,” says Robert, “which enables me to bring my worldwide experience not only to the company but to each of my clients, as well.”

ROBERT VIOLANTE Manager, Tapper’s Twelve Oaks Mall. Five months with Tapper’s.

Originally a Southerner, Robert Violante began his career in his hometown of Atlanta, Georgia, where he was educated at Georgia Perimeter College and went on to join the Shane Company — a large, family-owned jeweler known nationally for their strength in the engagement ring business. While serving as manager of the Shane Company’s flagship store in Engelwood, Colorado, Robert was named Store Manager of the Year and was rewarded with the opportunity to practice with the Colorado Rockies and throw out the first pitch at a subsequent home game. “I’ve been a fan ever since,” confesses Robert. “Also, I got Tebowed — go Broncos!”

The father of three children under six, Robert admits to being a “busy guy” at home — and even busier in his role at Tapper’s Twelve Oaks store in Novi. “I think that my greatest strength is the passion I have for developing a sales team and helping them achieve growth and consistency. I think that consistency is what separates a good manager from a great manager.” Go, Robert!

One of the reasons that Tapper’s is able to provide such a high level of service to its clients is the company’s devotion to recruiting leaders in the field of luxury sales and service. “To be a part of the Tapper’s team,” explains Mark Tapper, President of Tapper’s Diamonds and Fine Jewelry, “you have to be a truly exceptional human being. We will accept nothing less than extraordinary from our team, because we want to provide that to our clients.”

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Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

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In November, Tapper’s hosted an exclusive private client event at the Corner Bar at Birmingham’s tony Townsend Hotel to celebrate our relationship with Officine Panerai, the Italian watch company whose timepieces, originally designed for the Italian navy, have skyrocketed to celebrity status over the past decade.

Months later, Tapper’s client base of Paneristi (already plural — think “biscotti” or “manicotti”) — those individuals whose passion is for all things Panerai — are still buzzing about this exciting evening. Panerai enthusiasts were treated to a sneak peek at special-edition timepieces from the 2011 Geneva launch, as well as the opportunity to enjoy fine wines, scotches and gourmet “man” fare such as fajitas and hand-carved meats. Mingling among the Paneristi (some of whom had traveled from out of state to attend) were Rafael Alvarez, President of Officine Panerai, Chris Sclafani, Tapper’s Panerai representative, as well as Tapper’s owners, buyers and associates. Steve Smith, head watch buyer for Tapper’s, noted that “guests arrived up to 30 minutes early for the event, just to be the first in line to try on one of the special-edition pieces.”

We invite you to view a wonderful selection of Panerai timepieces at our West Bloomfield and Somerset locations.

HAPPENINGSPANERISTI OF THEWORLD UNITE!

A PASSION FOR DAVID YURMAN

Tapper’s West Bloomfield store hosted a wonderful evening devoted to a passion for David Yurman. Elegant hors d’oeuvres and cocktails were enjoyed by guests as the newest David Yurman designs were presented. A phenomenon in the world of style and fashion, David Yurman is internationally recognized as America’s leading designer of fine jewelry and luxury timepieces.

With a background as an artist, David Yurman has revolutionized the way people think about, wear and collect jewelry. Created in sterling silver, 18K gold, diamonds, precious gemstones, South Sea and Tahitian pearls, David Yurman’s masterpieces are collected by women and men around the world.

Shop the David Yurman collection at our Twelve Oaks Mall (Novi) and West Bloomfield locations.

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We could not be more excited to introduce you to Marlee’s by Tapper’s, a new concept in styling and accessories. As sisters-in-law, we are really close and do almost everything together. We love to travel, cook, and most of the time just hang out and talk. And, like most women, we also love to shop together! Because we work so closely together at Tapper’s, we developed a vision to open a store — somewhere we would love to shop. We are always looking for ways to update our looks with minimal investment. We thought it would be so much fun to create a space where friends, mothers and daughters, sisters (or sisters-in-law!) could shop together and have fun finding new ways to update their styles.

The two of us LOVE to style each other — and although we have different tastes, each of us has our own unique sense of fashion. We both share a love for jewelry, accessories and business, and that’s how the idea for Marlee’s was born. One of us will throw a cashmere scarf and long necklace on the other, and our look (and mood) will shift in an instant! That feeling is precisely what Marlee’s is going to offer; our stylists will always be available to show you how to wear something new and integrate it with what you already own. It’s so much easier to be adventurous with style if someone shows you how.

We love the creativity of shopping anywhere from art galleries to street artists, discovering interesting and unique types of jewelry and accessories made of different, sometimes unexpected materials. Everything we have at Marlee’s will be like that one “amazing” find you made at a weekend art show in the park. You’ll notice on this page that our motif contains four hearts, each representing a different idea: people, culture, place and craft. We have been searching the world for unique and fabulous items, but there will also be a significant part of our store devoted to Michigan-based designers and products. Our state is home to such a wealth of innovation in the world of fashion, design and style; we’re really looking forward to the opportunity to showcase this local talent.

Whether you are 25 or 65, we promise that you will find something at Marlee’s that’s going to excite you. When we are selecting accessories for Marlee’s, first and foremost we pay attention to detail. Whether we’re looking at jewelry, handbags, sunglasses, belts or scarves, we inspect every aspect of how the item is made to ensure that we will be providing our clients with only the finest quality and craftsmanship. Every piece you see in our store is something that we would each want to own personally.

We can’t wait to see you when we open our doors this May at Twelve Oaks Mall in Novi. We invite you to come in, look around,

XOXO

Marla & Leora

Leora Tapper and Marla Tapper Young

WELCOME!to Mar lee ’ s by Tapper ’ s

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FAR FROM

THE FIERY BEAUTY OF FANCY YELLOW DIAMONDSCOMES TO LIFE IN RINGS SO SPECTACULAR,

THEY WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY.

MELLOWYELLOW

Rare and unique, fancy yellow diamonds are an unexpected guest at the gemstone soiree.

Cut correctly, a fancy yellow diamond will look as if someone has captured the

essence of the sun and placed it directly on your finger. Tapper’s is proud to be a

direct importer of fancy yellow diamonds. Please contact a Tapper’s diamond specialist

at (248) 932-7700 in order to schedule a private viewing.

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In ancient Greece, it was believed that pearls were associated with marital harmony.

Perhaps that is the reason that they’ve become the classic choice of accessory to

complement a bride’s wedding attire. Mikimoto is renowned for crafting timeless,

elegant pearl jewelry using the finest pearls in the world. Only the best cultured pearls

(5% of all pearls) are deemed worthy enough to carry the Mikimoto name.

A perfect choice for the graduate, the new bride or for Mother’s Day, a gift of pearls

is certain to be cherished for years to come.

Lariat necklace with diamond clasp, $6,590

Pearl bracelet, $1,080

Pearl and diamond studs, $1,040

Classic pearl strand with pearl clasp, $3,280. Matching studs, $600

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FROM TAPPER’S

A COLLECTION OF DIAMOND RINGS THAT TRANSCEND THE ORDINARY

T IMELESSMOMENTS

Because your love for each other is precious and unique, Tapper’s has created a signature line

of diamond engagement rings, Tapper’s Timeless Moments, that transcends the ordinary.

While three distinct collections within the line offer different styles and influence, every

Timeless Moments engagement ring evokes a classic look with a modern interpretation.

With the assistance of one of our highly trained diamond specialists, you are certain to find the

ring of your dreams within the Tapper’s Timeless Moments collection. A direct diamond

importer, Tapper’s offers exceptional value and quality for diamonds as radiant as your love.

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A symbol of eternal love and commitment, a wedding

or anniversary band has no beginning and no end.

What happens in between those two points,

however, is simply a matter of style!

Dramatic, elegant, refined…whatever you decide.

This year, why not renew your love (or declare it for the first time)

with a stunning precious band from Tapper’s Timeless Moments collection?

This page features a selection of the styles we have available,

but literally hundreds more are ready and waiting to greet you

at one of our three convenient locations.

Not sure which look is right for you? One of our experienced associates

will be delighted to help you discover the perfect ring –

the one that says “I forever do.”

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WHAT’S ALL THE

ABOUT?

HOOPLA

If you’re looking for a spring trend, here it is: hoops are

a great new look to add to your wardrobe this season. Stick with a traditional

look or opt for a funkier interpretation of the classic hoop earring — upside down or twisted, anyone?

A. Diamond hoops in 14K, $2,999 B. Diamond huggies in 14K, $1,899 C. Roberto Coin diamond hoops in 18K, $4,300

D. Ippolita hoops in sterling silver with quartz, $495 E. Diamond hoops in 18K rose gold, $1,499

F. Lana earrings in 14K, $280 G. Lana hoops with emeralds in 14K, $1,380 H. Two-tone hoops in 14K, $549

I. Penny Preville diamond and sapphire hoops, $4,355 J. John Hardy sterling silver bamboo hoops, $325

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The beauty of bangles is that you can easily

create a completely different look by adding,

subtracting or mixing and matching. For a

modern look, wear bangles from different

designers that have a common theme — silver

with amethyst, for example, from John Hardy

and Ippolita, make a remarkably good looking

couple. Or choose yellow gold, white gold and a

couple of two-tone bangles to bridge the gap!

Add sparkle and glamour with diamonds and

gemstones, or keep the look straightforward

and simple with gold or silver.

Top to bottom:

Roberto Coin, $3,300

Ippolita, $325

Spotlight Collection by Tapper’sin black and white diamonds, $4,999

John Hardy, $495

Gregg Ruth, $10,870

Ippolita, $1,795

Charles Krypell, $1,255

Penny Preville, $10,905

Gurhan, $795

DO YOUSTACKUP?

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From the left:

CABLE WRAP RING Sterling silver and blue topaz, $2,650

RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and moon quartz, $375

CABLE WRAP RING Blackened sterling silver and lemon citrine, $1,450

RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and black onyx, $375

PETITE WHEATON RING Sterling silver and prasiolite, $450

RENAISSANCE RING Sterling silver and Hampton blue topaz, $375

CABLE WRAP RING Sterling silver and black onyx, $1,700

America’s leading fine jewelry and luxury watch brand.

Artistic inspiration is at the very core of the company’s foundation.

Fusing art, fashion and fine jewelry into a signature design concept

was nothing short of revolutionary within the jewelry industry.

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CLASSIC WATCH 38MM Stainless steel case with integrated cable, $6,200

DUO TONE CLASSIC WATCH 38MM Stainless steel/18K gold case with integrated cable, $8,000

CLASSIC WATCH 30MM Stainless steel case with integrated cable, $5,200

CLASSIC WATCH 30MM 18K gold case with integrated cable, $30,000

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A. Be my jelly bean…or wear a sweet Michele watch by the same name. In rose stainless steel with white rubber strap, $345.

B. Just in time – the sporty G-Shock Casio watch, $260.

TAPPER’S EXCLUSIVE SPOTLIGHT COLLECTIONIt’s not always black or white – sometimes the occasion calls for both! Dramatic jewelry in black and white diamonds set in 14K white gold.

C. Pendant, $1,449. D. “V” hoop earrings, $1,349. E. Flower ring, $1,699. F. Band, $1,099.

G. Tassel necklace with black and white diamonds, seed pearls, $599.

H. Cufflinks – complimentary engraving, stainless steel, $84.

SPOTLIGHT

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ONSTYLE

From John Hardy’s Classic Chain collection, men’s beaded bracelets with sterling silver detail in a variety of colorations, on black Mokuba cord.

Shown: A. Black onyx with tiger eye. B. Onyx with malachite. C. Lapis. Each, $195.

D. Go for the gold with this delicate 14K necklace featuring two diamond discs, from Meira T. designs, $990. E. Coordinating earrings, $1,045.

FROM TAPPER’S EXCLUSIVE SPOTLIGHT COLLECTIONTake one for the team! Better yet, take two. Support your favorite team in style

with these handsome items. An ideal graduation or groomsmen’s gift! F. Money clip, $45 each. G. Cufflinks (pair), $60 each.

H. Carry a photo of the two of you close to your heart. (Sooo sweet!) Lovely vintage-style lockets are crafted in sterling silver, chain included, $139.99 each.

I. Disarmingly charming! Stack up multiples of these stainless steel cable bracelets with black diamond buckle clasps, $139.99 each.

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DESIGNERS

WARM GOLD AND SATURATEDSEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO

BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTIONTO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GETTING PERSONALWhat are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casualand fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair todebut my newest collections.

COLOR POPS

In the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remainedunchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almostall of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic

to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’shistory. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition betweencollections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season ourcustomers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there arealways constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—anemotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection,filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites asabsolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelrywardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspiredby unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lavaof Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-goldjewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn byAfrican women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth thatevokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler andoften names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after thedestinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes thechance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccerleague and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors,exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I findin everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course,he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

The bold spheresand jewels of theAfrica collectionare tangible andpronounced, yetremarkably light.

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MA

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OA ONCE IN A LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY TO MEET

MARCO BICEGO, WORLD-RENOWNED

ITALIAN DESIGNER AT AN EXCLUSIVE

TRUNK SHOW AND COCKTAIL PARTY

FRIDAY, MAY 11, 20126PM - 9PMTAPPER’S WEST BLOOMFIELD

THE MOST EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF

MARCO BICEGO’S EXTRAORDINARY

DESIGNS WILL BE AT OUR STORE ONLY

DURING THIS SPECIAL EVENT.

MARCO WILL PERSONALLY SIGN EACH PIECE OF JEWELRY PURCHASED THATEVENING WITH A HAND ENGRAVER.

PLEASE RSVP TO 248.865.6093

...sensuous, extraordinarily beautiful jewelry which blends old world Italian hand cra! smanship with tradition, passion, and imagination.

d l b f l

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World renowned for its elegance,innovation and unique attention todetail, Penny Preville jewelry has

been worn by fashionable women from JackieOnassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, anexclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested injewelry design?As a little girl, I’d go into New York City everySunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, aself-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her ParkAvenue apartment. It was filled with amazingartwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box,overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels:exquisite pieces from different eras that mygrandfather bought her. I would touch them, trythem on, dream about them. My other grandmotherwas an artist (she painted Limoges china) as wasmy mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. Iloved art history, re-living different eras.Describe your jewelry and the process tocreate it.Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail:beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…

My jewelry is made by artisans here in NewYork City: we start with an original model andmost of the work is done by hand: engraving,stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending onthe piece, the process can take a few days to afew months.What inspires your designs?Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian,Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)How would you describe your personalstyle? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?There are two sides to me: very driven andpractical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a widescroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tieevents, and a thin diamond bangle that I weareveryday. (It’s part of my body!)

I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamondsfrom the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and ablue star sapphire that my husband’s mother gotfrom her mother…

You work with your husband and twosons: how hard is it to combine businessand family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we haveseparate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay(who started the business with me) managesfinancial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32)and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and willhopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boysto join us: growing up, they were into sports andshowed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?Long chains, statement earrings, bangles andcuffs to mix and match, collectibles, differentstones, blackened metals and lots of color(especially blues!). I also believe in the mysticalpowers of certain stones—for strength or forprotection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?It’s reflects her style and individuality; it providesinsight into who she is as a person: spiritual,sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching awoman select jewelry: when she finds the perfectpiece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

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Signature Style

DESIGNERS

PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE ANDFABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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www.mariabri da lcouture .com2 4 8 . 5 3 9 . 3 0 9 0

Ins id e of th e Orcha rd Ma l l

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Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, thesesuperlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a uniqueidentification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of theinscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair)and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.

Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal qualityof the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and addedsecurity. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute inAntwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity andaccuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, yourguarantee of excellence and authenticity.

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PROFILE

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PROFILE

SCALINGBACK

First introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th yearin business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragonand the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano

each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, thewater dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land andbrought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer andcreative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Nagacollection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to helpthe Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as acollaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “abusiness can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “GreenerEveryday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmentalconservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even theblack palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s HongKong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compoundis a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mudstructures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for theentire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Baliby these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served asjewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragonheads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Craftedfrom sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semi-precious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earringsare rich with detail, inside and out.

JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGACOLLECTION WITH FIERY NEWDESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OFTHE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGACOLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”

–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER

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Though the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate

that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose

pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

RED CARPET

Blonde BombshellsWITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE,

WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER CLAIRE DANES

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smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked

like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens

cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,

stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a

sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The

Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to

yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical

designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

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STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY KATHERINE HEIGL MARLEY SHELTON

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There are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at thespa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talkingabout adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as ade rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such bigbuzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all ofwhich are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equallyimportant, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned aroundexhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new tothe market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUTWhen “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as theColor of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in bothfashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’sattention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the realitythat not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tonesof tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. Ifyou’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this colorin accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statementpiece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but Iwent shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure ofchildhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman,for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow,“Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing alot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without beingtoo out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and greatfor blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for springand summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and“Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brownfamily are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-gettinggemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTSWhile classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important,so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs androse cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models atthe 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelryawards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstonesand cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit policedrama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporarygemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem onthe bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks toclever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gemslices with complementary opaque stones.”SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The

RENEWAL!THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS,

NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EMGEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY

BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

TRENDS

Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K goldHaute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and blacksapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much likenatural light shining through a stained glass window.Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides,depending on the designer’s individual vision.Helena Krodel, director of media and specialevents for Jewelers of America, says, “Thinkabout gemstone-slice earrings if you wantsomething lightweight and, at the sametime, very flattering; they bring light andcolor near the face.”ROUGH CUTS These asymmetricallyshaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for themost part, three dimensional, almostsculptural. They have an inherent, organic beautybecause they aren’t precision-cut to mathematicperfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry lineand president of the Contemporary Jewelry DesignGroup, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted andauthentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designswith rough cuts are a great choice.”ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cutshave been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usuallycircular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed oftriangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. Ifyou’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cutand a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year,rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing upeverywhere.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMSBarbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored GemstoneAssociation, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, shepoints to five gems she sees trending—especially in light offashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likelymeans these gems will get even morepopular as we progressthrough 2012.A TOP TANGERINEFIRE OPAL: Theseradiant orange-redgemstones arerenowned in legendand lore for theirpositive effect on thepsyche. That said, youmay have to pay the pricefor that profound sensation ofpeace and harmony! Often thecost of these expressive and fierygems is determined by the play of color,body color and transparency. “Fireopal is really popular in Asia,” saysWheat. With tangerine as this year’s“Color ot the Year,” it will likely getstronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandaringarnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

spessartite garnet, red agate.A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This

transparent diaspore gem, foundonly in Turkey, hasn’t been usedmuch in jewelry—until now.

With its inherently interestingcolor-change properties—from kiwi green tochampagne brown toraspberry pink—it’scertainly out of theordinary, and the perfectchoice for anyone lookingfor something unique or a

true conversation starter.Other favorites: chrysoprase,

green agate, peridot, green opal,green jade, green quartz, green

amethyst, green garnet, greentourmaline.

A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately,citrine has been particularly popular, both for itscolor and the variety of cutting styles being used

on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and oftenaffordable prices, citrine has recently captured the

fancy of a growing number of typically high-enddesigners, many mixing it with a range of orange andpink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of

overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl,chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.

A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most in-vogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new,

March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlightedin designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes,

aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in largesizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing

number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for theirengagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid

color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea—captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite,

sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of

the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more andmore by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly

one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony iswell liked in its blue and green varieties, too.“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is

hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” saysWheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite,

pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

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Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace byStephen Webster.

Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Roadcollection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone,aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of

pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and bluetopaz doublet

EVERYONE ISTALKING ABOUT

ADDING GEMSTONEJEWELRY TO THELIST OF NATURAL

MOOD ELEVATORS.

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WATCHESACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

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TIMINGISEVERYTHING

Hermes Ladies H-HOUR on orange leather strap, $2,300

Raymond Weil Two-tone Noemia watch with diamonds, $2,495

Baume & Mercier Hampton watch with brown leather strap, $2,650

Cartier Roadster with pink dial, $5,400

Jaeger-LeCoultre Ladies diamond Reverso, $9,150

FROM SPORTY TO SPECTACULAR, YOU WILL KEEP PERFECT TIME WITH A

STYLISH TIMEPIECE FROM TAPPER’S.

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IWC Aquatimer Galapagos automatic watch on rubber strap, $6,900

Raymond Weil Freelancer Gent’s automatic watch, $1,995

Panerai Daylight automatic chronograph, $9,500

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon with brown leather strap, $17,300

Tag Heuer 1887 Carrerra, $4,800

37


FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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I M P E R I A L E C O L L E C T I O N


skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

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“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

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FOCUS: WINDERS by Laurie Kahle

Like early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need forwinding, watch winders originated as practical items to keeptimepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience

factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. Theyensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout themechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system bylimiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking evermore elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasuresenergized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuringinlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor componentsand stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxuryfurnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—theultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

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WINDING IT UPTRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

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SEREIN DIAMOND

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Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and presidentof Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch fromhis wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated bythe need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved theproblem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, tokeep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was aconvenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned thatwhen a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricantscan wick away from moving parts, so keeping yourwatch on a winder is also about preventativemaintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed toaccommodate your ever-growing collection andcater to your personal needs. “It became a sort oflifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandablestorage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, ahumidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in theItalian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standardconfiguration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg ofAustria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand andtailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, displaycabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watchesand jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a modelproduced in partnership with Aston Martin. TheObject of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlesslycombines a safe, a collection of the brand’sproprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound systemwith a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and aflying minute tourbillion clock. The striking designemulates the muscular curves of the One-77supercar, which, like the winder, has a limitedproduction of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building acustom room, like the space commissioned by one ofOrbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”

explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoyhis collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storageunits that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storagedrawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through thatkind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” saysAgnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eightmonths from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

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Winders have entered the realm

of luxury furnishingswith an array of

options to create apersonalized unit.

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

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FOCUS: PROFILE by Randi Molofsky

Awalk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulatesmuch of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an ArtDeco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with aninnate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit offlash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’sseaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from theJelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chicstandouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepiecesmake a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern takeon a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular patternand oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’sround case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel andchronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is alsoreinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-at-me neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals inmint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’scommitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety ofstraps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather,cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze,whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

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SO HOT THEY’RE COOLMICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

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www.gshock.com

JET SET TER

Multi-Band Technology receives time calibration signals automatically from up to six transmitters around the world (US, UK, Germany, Japan x 2 and China). This technology

also adjusts for Leap Year and Daylight Saving Time.

AT O M I C T I M E K E E P I N GAT O M I C T I M E K E E P I N G

Japan

JapanNorth America

United Kingdom

GermanyChina

A solar panel combined with a large-capacity rechargeable battery enables these impressivesolar timepieces to run

smoothly under any light with no battery replacement.

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FOCUS: COLLECTING by David A. Rose

Among the many rewards of successin sports, perhaps the best isgarnering the respect and

admiration of fans and peers. But for thoseathletes competing in Rolex-sponsoredevents, the grand prize comes in the form ofa luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set forthemselves long before they’re strappedinto their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn,California, is a true champion in all forms ofmotor sports, with the additional honor ofhaving won more Rolex-sponsored racesthan any other driver. Thus, he has becomethe proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also wonthe Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times andwas awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. Inall, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for hisbrilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “WhenI won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and FordMotor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as theInternational Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to beinvited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I wereever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolextimepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California,and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on totake the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy myfirst beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruettalso bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

As a world famous racecar driver stillat the top of his game, it’s remarkable thatPruett makes time for other ventures. Heand his wife Judy have joined forces toestablish Pruett Vineyard, as well as WordWeaver Books, publishers of a series ofchildren’s books they authored. Notsurprisingly, the theme is racing, includingtitles like Twelve Little Race Cars, RookieRacer and Racing Through the Alphabet.Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racingcareer, these books provide inspiration andexcitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business,Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrumsapart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literallyminute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process;the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend ofchemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m notone of these athletes who puts my name on a project withoutinvolvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved inevery aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help ofsome incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has racedevery year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was anotherextraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-AmRolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “sobeing the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted:I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

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TIME ON HIS SIDESCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

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EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

STEP IN STYLELocated in a small shop on New York City’s East Side,designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection putsfashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Herunique creations can be seen in very stylish homes allover the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, theSmithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs,inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditionalAmerican quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art,are made of natural fibers including wool, silk,pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’sthe only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knottedrugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!

A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDYAt the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. Thegrand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches,in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, themanor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor,some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce topresent the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.

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REST ASSUREDHôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even morefashionable and exclusive than the island of St.Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on agently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area,each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its owngated entrance and a red mailbox flag thatserves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoynetting-draped four-poster mahogany beds,high-tech entertainment centers andkitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plungepools and incredible views across the lush hills toa beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier hasselected superb wines and the chef createsamazing dishes (including the hotel’s signaturepasta in cream with black truffles). If you chooseto stir from your villa, arrangements can be madefor a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, youcan just put up your flag, order the excellentroom service, and hide out like the other privacy-seeking celebrity guests.

HOUSTON, WE HAVE ARTInspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Orhotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near themuseum district, owns an extensive art collection that includesCorot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to beone of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor inNorth America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas(like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-lovingguests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, thendine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturallypaired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, createdby chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.

BUBBLES IN THE AIRPops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs,presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections.Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown onChampagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is alwaysbetter to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetnesslevel] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warmand balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut.“Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…isperhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair withoysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.”Here’s to a sparkling summer!

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“EIGHT YEARS AGO, every bar in the U.S. had perhaps four gins onthe back row, and perhaps four million vodkas on the front,” says SimonFord, international brand ambassador for Plymouth and Beefeater gins.Today, the scene is, thankfully, far more complex, with gin cocktailsdominating many a bar menu.

Gin got its start when 17th-century British mercenaries discoveredDutch genever (a malted spirit with juniper) during the Thirty Years’ War. Ittraditionally consists of an amalgam of botanical “flavors” (seeds, roots,berries) infused into a high-proof neutral base spirit and re-distilled. Whatspirit and flavorings are used, and how they’re processed, creates differentgins. Hendrick’s “steams” a basket of botanicals with the vaporized alcohol,then adds cucumber and floral notes. Beefeater steeps its botanical brew,distills it and blends it with (essentially) vodka, cutting the distillate at justthe right moment to capture citrus notes. Citadelle Reserve is barrel-agedfor six months. Lest you shy away from gin for all that juniper, know thatonly London Dry styles (think Tanqueray or Bulldog) are expected to havejuniper-driven flavor profiles. New Western Dry styles, like Aviation andG’Vine (made with grape alcohol), might emphasize orange, rose orsaffron. If you seek something truly over-the-top, Nolet’s Reserve ($700) isa limited-edition Dutch sipping gin with notes of saffron and verbana.

Want to try your hand at blending the perfect gin? For about $65,Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison will guide you through hishistoric distillery in southwest England, lead a comparative tasting, thenturn you loose to create your own mini-bottle. You’ll have your choice of 20different botanicals, and cook it all up in a miniature still.

GINBLOSSOMS

GIN HASN’T BEEN THIS POPULAR IN 300YEARS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

SPIRITS

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When was the last time you went to a spinning class with yourdoctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together?Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One

“new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine. Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works

with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primarycare physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to topspecialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patientsalso pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designednot only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but alsoto educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory isthat a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to becomesavvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness.

One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company withover 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 statesand the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to$1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians whowanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primarycare model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to putthe patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they becamesick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison,MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison,the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s notunusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s

estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less witheach patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to addressthe symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors captheir practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day,allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has apatient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalizedsignificantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiarieshave 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer.

Other member-based companies are gaining recognition forinfusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health,based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies,helping them with costs and enabling them to provide betterhealthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involvesmobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitionercomes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offeringdedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellnesscounseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s likeMarcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve broughtback and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing.

Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth.With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just bea matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarketoutings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.

HAUTE HEALTHCAREBOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

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At its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world isnew. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes everysound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste

more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journeyof coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN:Cruise the Galapagos with EcoventuraThe arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days asEcoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador standsoutside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabinvessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’sleast-spoiled corner.

When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone,you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes acrossblack lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird andanimal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche ofthe islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosityrather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOUTO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

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The view from thelounge attached toone of the suites atAmangiri makes thedesert seem like aprivate space.Coffee is alwaysavailable for earlyrisers on theEcoventura yachts inthe GalapagosIslands.

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footed boobies in their comiccourtship dance. Male frigatebirds nearly roll overbackwards on their nests,incapacitated by the red chestpouches they have inflated tolure a mate.

The strange creaturesinhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing theirpups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoiseslumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabsskitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife,but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS:Costa Rica Escape at Lapa RiosLapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowlandrainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitivetourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in theforest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches andtree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the humanexception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.

More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song toadd to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora andfauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous,distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforestexperience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of ElRemanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls.laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS:The Purifying Desert at AmangiriFor thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenationin the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peacefulmountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south atGrand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the rawlandscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as awhispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.

After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-bodytreatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translatesas “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, dailygroup yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. Butnothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle ofillumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars.amanresorts.com

The giant tortoises of theGalapagos Islands are

one of the region’sendangered species.

The step pool at the spa atAmangiri glows in the falling

light of dusk.

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lionslet photographers snap their portraitswith abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises)are spectacular in the

Galapagos Islands.

All thebungalows atLapa Rios inCosta Rica areconstructed ofthatch.

The foot hue ofblue-footed boobiesvaries by individual.

STRANGECREATURESINHABIT THEIROWN GARDENOF EDEN

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My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

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Individual bangle bracelets featuring a discreet but powerful message on the inside of

each bangle. Each bangle is inscribed with “I LOVE YOU 365 DAYS A YEAR” utilizing a pink

sapphire as a romantic accent. Individually priced at $190.

This stunning sterling silver bangle is actually seven bracelets in one. Linked together by a clasp with the

“I love you 7 days a week” inscription. A powerful message and unique design that makes it the ideal gift.

Available in four wrist sizes. $1,250.00

featuringI L O V E Y O U 7 D AY S A W E E K

Show your love for her 7 days a week

This Mother’s Day, Show your love for her

365 days a year

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