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LA

San Rafael

CañasTilarán

Gotera

Tronadora

UpalaSan Jose

Colonia Puntarenas

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MonteverdeCloud Forest

e Walk in a cloud (forest): Explore Monteverde’s misty world on SkyWalk, a series of treetop walkways up to 138 feet off the ground.

f Windsurfing: Lake Arenal is one of the top windsurfing spots on earth; winds can reach 50-60 mph December through April.

g Arenal Volcano: You can hear the rumblings of the world’s third most active volcano for miles around, and, on clear nights, watch crimson lava ooze down its flanks.

h Watching wildlife: Water birds, monkeys, turtles, crocodiles, jaguars, and sloths abound in the 25,000-acre Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge.

i Walk down to the waterfall: The reward for a tough hike down to Catarata Fortuna is a magnificent series of waterfalls.

TOP 5 Reasons to Go

Home to the rainiest of cloud for-ests, the Monteverde Cloud Forest Area is also the canopy-tour capital of Costa Rica. Hanging bridges, treetop tram tours, and zip-lines: it’s got it all. As if that’s not enough, there are horseback riding, rappel-ling, and nature hikes.

WELCOME TO THE NORTHERN PLAINS

Sky Walk, Monteverde

Sky Trek, Monteverde

G U A N A C A S T E

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Río Sarapiqui

Sarchí

Río San Juan

N I C A R A G U A

LakeArenal

Quesada

Naranjo

Grecia

San Isidro

LaFortuna

Chiles

BocaArenal

Puerto Viejo

Puerto ViejoLoop

Pangola

San MiguelAngeles

Acapulco

El Ampao

Cataratas de la Fortuna

4

4

35

35Arenal Volcano

Poás Volcano

Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge

Braulio CarrilloNational Park

LA

Geographically, the Zona Norte (Northern Zone), as it is known locally, separates neatly into two alluvial plains. The rich, lush terrain runs from the base of the Cordillera Central in the south to the Río San Juan, on the border with Nicaragua in the north. Most visitors begin their visit to Costa Rica in San José, and then head north to La Fortuna, using it as a base to explore the volcano, waterfall, and Caño Negro, and to participate in activities like sportfishing, windsurfing and kitesurfing at Lake Arenal, and rafting on the Sarapiquí River.

Getting Oriented

3

Northwest of San José are one of the country’s best crafts communi-ties, Sarchí, and some luxurious countryside lodges.

The Arenal Volcano Area is one of the hottest tourist destinations in Costa Rica. La Fortuna is the closest town to the volcano; its many diver-sions include Tabacón Hot Springs. Tilarán, west of Lake Arenal, is the place to be if you’re a windsurfer.

Arenal Volcano

Egret, Caño Negro

Hiking down to La Fortuna Waterfalls

H E R E D I A

Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge, in The Far North, is great for fishing, bird-watching, and com-muning with nature.

The Puerto Viejo Loop circles Braulio Carrillo National Park, rare for its easy-to-access primary rain forest. The loop’s highlight is Poás Volcano; its turquoise crater lake and steaming main crater make it the favorite volcano of many a visitor.

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Bungee Jumping

Canopy Tours

Fishing

Hiking

Horseback Riding

Rafting

Rappelling

Wildlife-viewing

Windsurfing

Colorado River (Grecia)

La Fortuna, Monteverde

Lake Arenal

Lake Arenal, Tilarán, La Fortuna

La Fortuna, Monteverde

La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

La Fortuna

La Fortuna, Caño Negro, Monteverde

Lake Arenal

ACTIVITY WHERE TO DO IT

What to Do

When to Go

Late November to April is considered high season. The rainy season is July–Decem-ber, but the region is always hot and humid, with frequent rain. Expect highs of 32˚C (90˚F) and lows of 15˚C (60˚F). Nights are usually cool and comfortable. At almost 5,000 feet, Monteverde has a significantly different climate: It’s cool and damp most of the time, with average highs around 20˚C (70˚F) and lows around 13˚C (55˚F). Visibility changes daily (and hourly), so your chances of seeing the cra-ters are more or less the same year-round, though you may have more luck from February to April, the hottest and driest time of the year.

Rain Forests Are . . . Rainy

There’s a reason they call it the rain forest! During the rainy season it’s not unusual for it to rain for several days straight. But don’t curse the wet weather—it’s what keeps the forests green and gorgeous. Just bring a poncho or rain jacket and waterproof foot-wear so you don’t end up cursing yourself.

NORTHERN PLAINS PLANNER

The Early Bird Catches the Sun

In the rainy season it’s almost a given that you’ll get a bit damp on your canopy tour, hike, or horseback ride, and most tour operators provide ponchos. But to avoid a thorough soaking, plan activities for the morning. Rains usually begin at around 2 PM, like clockwork, from July through December. The clearest time of day is before 8 AM.

Getting There

The cheapest and slowest way to get here is via public bus. The fastest and priciest is flying to La Fortuna (via NatureAir), driving yourself, or hiring a driver. A mid-range option is taking a private shuttle-bus service. Many San José–based tour companies arrange transportation and tours in the area. But La Fortuna, Arenal, and Monteverde are also full of tour com-panies that will arrange same-day or next-day transportation and tours for you.

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Copyright © 2007 by Fodor's Travel

WHAT IT COSTS in Dollars

3

How Much Time?

If your visit is limited to two or three days, make La Fortuna your base. Don’t miss the volcano, the Tabacón Hot Springs, or Caño Negro Wildlife Reserve. Most tour operators who have volcano hikes end the day at the hot springs. “Half-day” tours to Caño Negro actually take most of a day, from around 7:30 AM to 4 PM. A week in the Northern Plains is more than enough time to experi-ence a great deal of this area—especially if you’re longing to get out and get moving. Give yourself four days in La Fortuna/ Arenal for rafting trips on the Sarapiquí, horseback rides, and kitesurfing or windsurfing on Lake Arenal. Devote the rest of your week to Monteverde Cloud Forest.

Choosing a Place to Stay

The La Fortuna/Arenal area has luxury resorts, mid-priced hotels, budget places, and campsites. While no longer as cheap as it was, hotel rates are low compared to American prices. If you plan to raft, hike, and go to the hot springs, a simple and com-fortable cabina ($20–$40) in or around La Fortuna allows easy access to tours, restaurants, and buses—a good choice if you don’t have a car. For privacy, quiet, luxury, and a volcano view, try the resorts west of Fortuna ($75–$185), closer to the volcano.

Pack Right

It’s hot and wet here much of the year, so don’t think fashion, think comfort and utility. Must-haves include walking shoes (sneakers are fine unless you’re planning on seri-ous hiking), water sandals, and clothing made of quick-dry-ing materials. Don’t forget a good hat to shield your face from the sun and rain, and sunglasses. A light rain jacket or poncho, and mini umbrella are worth the space as well.

Prices ■ T IP➜➜ The Web site www. monteverdeinfo. com has a wealth of information about the area.

1111 3 2 1 z

Restaurants over $25 $15—$25 $10—$15 $5—$10 under $5

Hotels over $250 $150—$250 $75—$150 $50—$75 under $50

Restaurant prices are per-person for a main course at dinner. Hotel prices are for two people in a standard double room in high season, excluding service and tax (16.4%).

Recommended Tour Operators■ Nature Adventures (w www. adventurecostarica. com) has five-day biking tours that com-bine Monteverde and Lake Arenal with the Central Valley.

■ Costa Rica Expeditions (w www. costarica

expeditions. com) cus-tomize almost limitless vacations.

■ Costa Rica Study Tours (P 645–7090 w www. crstudytours. com) can fix you up with all manner of excursions around Monteverde.

■ If you don’t have much time, Ecoscape Nature Tours (P 297–0664 w www. escapetours. com) has the best daylong Sarapiquí loop tour. It also has nighttime jungle tours in the Selva Verde reserve.

■ A one-week tour with Travel Wizard Costa Rica (P 415/ 662– 2683 in the U.S. or Canada w www. travelwizard. com) includes Arenal and Monteverde.

Northern Plains Planner > 115

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WORD OF MOUTH

www.fodors.com/forums

Central Pacific

5

” Manuel Antonio National park is my favorite. There is so much to do there . . . comb the mountain’s many trails, zip through the trees like Tarzan, or go horseback riding.”

—hopabout

“ Montezuma is a place that I am glad I visited . . . I most definitely saw more hippies than I have seen since the ’60s. But . . . we enjoyed ourselves.”

—dfarmer

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The Coast > 291

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MANUEL ANTONIONATIONAL PARK

GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL

PACKAGES. Case in point, Costa Rica’ssmallest park packs in an impressivecollection of natural attractions: lots ofwildlife, rain forest, white-sandbeaches, coral reefs, and rocky coveswith abundant marine life. Trails areshort, well maintained, and easy towalk. The forest is dominated by mas-sive ficus and gumbo-limbo trees, andis home to two- and three-toed sloths,green and black iguanas, agoutis,four species of monkeys, and nearly200 species of birds.

FAST FACTSSize: 7 square km (3 square mi)

Established: 1972

Dry season: December–April

Wettest months: September–October

What to do: Nature hikes, bird-watch-ing, wildlife-watching, kayaking, snor-keling, swimming

Geography: 5 km (3 mi) of coastline; 700hectares (1,730 acres) of primary, second-ary, and mangrove forest; 12 islands

Number of species catalogued: 184birds, 109 mammals, 60 fish, 4 turtles

● One of two places in Costa Rica to see squirrel monkeys.

● One of two places in Costa Rica to see all four of Costa Rica’s monkeyspecies.

● One of the best places in Costa Rica to see three-toed sloths.

● Despite being Costa Rica’s smallest national park, this is its second most-visited, after Poás Volcano.

F

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Make no mistake about it: Manuel An-tonio is no undiscovered wilderness.It’s one of Costa Rica’s most-visited at-tractions, so if you’re looking for anundisturbed natural oasis, this is not it.But what Manuel Antonio does have isgreat diversity of wildlife, all easilyspotted from the well-marked trails.And because animals are so used to hu-mans, this is one of the best places tosee them up close.

ATTRACTIONSFrom the ranger station a trail leadsthrough the rain forest behind Playa Es-padilla Sur, the park’s longest beach. It’salso the least crowded because thewater can be rough. � Riptides are bru-tal at Playa Espadilla when the surf is up;more than a few unsuspecting tourists havebeen swept away. Snorkeling, however, isgood in the tidal pools. The coral reefsand submerged volcanic rocks of white-sand Playa Manuel Antonio also makefor good snorkeling. The 1/2-mile-longbeach, tucked into a deep cove, is safefor swimming. At low tide you can seethe remains of a Quepos Indian turtletrap on the right—the Quepos stuckpoles in the semicircular rock forma-tion, which trapped turtles as the tide re-ceded. Olive ridley and green turtlescome ashore on this beach May throughNovember. Espadilla and Manuel An-

tonio beaches lie on opposite sides ofa tombolo, or a sandy strip that con-nects the mainland to Punta Catedral(Cathedral Point), which used to be anisland. The steep path that leads upPunta Catedral’s rocky hill draped withthick jungle, passes a lookout pointfrom which you can gaze over the Pa-cific at the park’s islands. � Theft is aproblem on the beaches; don’t leave your be-longings unattended while you swim anddon’t leave anything of value in your car.

Farther east, Playa Escondido (HiddenBeach) is rocky and secluded, but it’salso more difficult to access. Before youhead out to Escondido, find out when thetides come in so you’re not stranded.Playa Playita, south of Escondido, isCosta Rica’s only nude beach, though un-officially so. It also tends to be a favoriteof gay sun-seekers. It’s quiet and se-cluded. Kayaking trips might take youdown to Punta Serrucho near the south-ern border of the park, whose jaggedpeaks explain its name. (Serrucho means“saw.”)

Trails from the entrance to Punta Cate-dral and Playa Manuel Antonio are ingood shape. Trails farther east to Es-condido and Playita are progressivelyrougher going.

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MONKEY BUSINESSMonkeys are undoubtedly the superstarsof Manuel Antonio wildlife. It’s nearlyimpossible to tour the park withoutseeing at least one species. � Never feedor touch the monkeys: they have been knownto bite overly friendly visitors and they canget sick, or even die from eating improperfoods. Some monkeys are kleptomani-acs, so keep your backpack tightlyzipped.

The squirrel monkey (mono tití in Span-ish), the world’s smallest monkey, iscritically endangered, with only 1,200to 1,500 remaining. Manuel Antonio

is one of only two places in Costa Rica(the Osa Peninsula being the other) andthree places in the world inhabited bysquirrel monkeys.

Monkeys can’t thrive only within thesmall park’s border. To allow them toaccess areas outside the park, forestedcorridors have been built connectingthe habitats. Suspended bridges allowmonkeys to travel above roads aroundthe park. Still, growing infrastructurearound the park threatens the monkeypopulation.

A SHAKY STARTBefore 1972 the land that now consti-tutes the park had a succession of for-eign private owners intent on making a profit from tourism. These ownersalienated the local community by cut-ting off their access to the park and, inthe case of the final owner, razing tractsof forest and allegedly dumping pesti-cides to throw a wrench in the govern-ment’s plan to create a protected area.The government seized the land shortlythereafter.

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Park Entrance

Park Entrance

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Espadilla Beach

ManuelAntonioBeach

OlocuitaIsland

PuertoEscondido

Beach

TOQUEPOS1 MILE

Squirrel Monkey

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ACTIVITIESKAYAKING

Iguana Tours (P 777–1262 w www.iguanatours.com) runs sea-kayaking trips($65) to the park’s islands—which re-quire some experience when the seas arehigh—and a mellower paddle throughthe mangrove estuary of Isla Damas,where you see monkeys, crocodiles andbirds.

SNORKELING

Playa Manuel Antonio, the third beachinside the national park, is a good snor-keling spot thanks to calm, clear watersand the varied marine life on and aroundsubmerged rocks. Snorkeling is best dur-ing the dry season, when tidal pools areclear.

SWIMMING

Manuel Antonio’s safest swimmingarea is sheltered Playa Manuel Antonio,whose white sand makes it attractivefor lounging while keeping an eye onpint-sized swimmers.

TOP WILDLIFETop on our list of animals to see here are:

● howler monkeys

● white-faced capuchin monkeys

● squirrel monkeys

● two- and three-toed sloths

● agoutis

● coatis

● magnificent frigate birds

● olive ridley turtles (May–November)

● green turtles (July–September)

For information on these and otherspecies, see the Wildlife & Plant Glos-sary in Understanding Costa Rica, atthe back of the book.

T IPS

● Hire a guide—you’ll walk away with abasic understanding of the flora and faunaand see things you probably would havemissed otherwise. Hire one at the en-trance of the park or through any touroperator in town.

● Beware of manzanillo trees (indicated bywarning signs)—their leaves, bark, andapplelike fruit secrete a gooey substancethat irritates the skin.

● Get here as early as possible—between 7and 8 AM is ideal. Rangers permit only 600to 800 people inside at a time, and dur-ing peak season visitors line up to enter.Early morning is also the best time tosee animals. Avoid weekends and majorholidays, particularly around Christmasand the week before Easter, when thepark is packed.

● Camping is not allowed in the park, andthere are no lodges or food.

● Park beaches do not have lifeguards,but that doesn’t mean that swimming isalways safe. Riptides are dangerouseverywhere except at Manuel AntonioBeach.

● If you want to snorkel, come during theDecember–April dry season; at othertimes of the year, heavy rains cloud thewater.

Sloth

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A FRAGILE BEAUTYDeforestation, development, cattle ranch-ing, pollution, and tourism place envi-ronmental stress on the park. Tourismbrings in enough revenue for the federalgovernment to sustain the park, but themajority of the money goes to fund so-cial programs. The major problems fac-ing Manuel Antonio today are:

● Hotel and resort development that en-croaches on natural wildlife corridorsand traps animals within the park,diminishing their gene pool and threat-ening biodiversity

● Endangered squirrel-monkey popula-tion

● Solid-waste pollution

● Overwhelming growth that outrunsdevelopment of infrastructure to han-dle it

● Lax regulations, corruption of parkmanagement, and poor relationshipbetween the park and the munici-pality

PARK INFO

Hours of Operation: Tuesday–Sunday 7–4.Closed Monday.

Contacts: 777–0654

Admission: $7

Getting There: From San José, 31⁄2 hoursby car, 4 hours by bus, or a 30-minuteflight to Quepos, then 15 minutes by car.Entrance at the end of the main roadfrom Quepos. Parking is less than $2.■ TIP➜➜ The park entrance is across a shal-low estuary that is so deep when the tidechanges in the early morning and late after-noon that you have to pay a boatman (less than$1) to ferry you across it.

HOW MUCH TIME? A few hours is sufficientto tour the short trails and see some wildanimals, but we recommend an entire daythat includes lounging on the beaches, and/or hiking the challenging trails towardPuerto Escondido.

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