2017-6-25 Table Talk: Brunswick House, Vauxhall, London | The Sunday Times Magazine | The Times & The Sunday Times https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/table-talk-brunswick-house-vauxhall-london-3jlnccmgv 1/10 HUNGRYHOUSE TAZZE GRIL Min Order 12.00 GBP Table Talk: Brunswick House, Vauxhall, London Atmosphere Food AA Gill March 13 2016, 12:01am, The Sunday Times BENJAMIN MCMAHON I have a bit of a thing for markets. Most people, when they visit a new city, want to see the sights — churches, palaces, boulevards, museums — but before restaurants and caĭs, I want to peruse fruit and veg, panting hens in cages, the gallows of flayed ungulates, old wood, sticky and glittering with fish guts and scales, cramped alleys of bagged rice and hanging flitches, Share , / Save 2 Our site uses cookies. By continuing to use our site you are agreeing to our cookies policy . ACCEPT AND CLOSE MENU sunday june 25 2017
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2017-6-25 Table Talk: Brunswick House, Vauxhall, London | The Sunday Times Magazine | The Times & The Sunday Times
I have a bit of a thing for markets. Most people, when they visita new city, want to see the sights — churches, palaces,boulevards, museums — but before restaurants and ca�s, I wantto peruse fruit and veg, panting hens in cages, the gallows offlayed ungulates, old wood, sticky and glittering with fish gutsand scales, cramped alleys of bagged rice and hanging flitches,
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2017-6-25 Table Talk: Brunswick House, Vauxhall, London | The Sunday Times Magazine | The Times & The Sunday Times
“the lust of your groin to the patting of yourtummy
“Passion” is a word that has migrated from the lust of yourgroin to the patting of your tummy. Modern folk queue for awhi� and a peep at someone else’s passion. These are purveyorsof food porn; this is food dogging. We stand and manoeuvremorsels of amateur peasant passion into our mouths.
But the really surprising thing was how bad it all was: the crassBake O� mess, the production and preparation so unsure. Salt-beef pastrami that had all the chutzpah of the Lower East Side,but none of the Harry Met Sally-moaning, soggy pleasure. Therewere sandwiches that tasted like meaty ashtrays; student-digdoughnuts that were like congealing bog paper with sweet,pustular injections of yellow-sugared lard.
And everything is expensive. The point of markets is supposedto be their cheapness — they have no overheads — and theirvolume. I bought a slab of passionate butter, just because Iwanted to see what £4.50 of churned milk tastes like. Well, ittastes salty. Last Tango in Bermondsey salty.
Brunswick House isn’t in Maltby Street, it’s in Vauxhall. But it isin an architectural-salvage-junky antiques shop that alsohappens to have an outlet in Maltby Street, where they sell thedecoration and furniture of my childhood, with an added patinaof irony and two noughts. Brunswick House is a mismatchedcafe with a bar, where you can eat uncomfortably o� old schoolOur site uses cookies. By continuing to use our site you are agreeing to our cookies policy.
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2017-6-25 Table Talk: Brunswick House, Vauxhall, London | The Sunday Times Magazine | The Times & The Sunday Times
Christian’s, Harrogate Crimple Hall is a showroom for antiques and vintage furniture.Its bistro, Christian’s, serves wood-fired pizzas and seasonalYorkshire produce. Leeds Road, Pannal, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG3 1EW;01423 870800, christianscafe.co.uk
The Swan at Tetsworth, Oxford Within a grade II listed Elizabethan coaching inn, the Swan sellswares from more than 80 dealers and serves modern Frenchfood. 5 Upper High Street, Tetsworth, Oxford OX9 7AB; 01844 281182,restaurant.theswan.co.uk
Edenshine, North Wales Browse Afonwen Antiques Centre, then eat at the family-runEdenshine restaurant, with views over the Welsh countryside. Near Caerwys, Mold, Flintshire CH7 5UB; 01352 720797,afonwen.co.uk/restaurant
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2017-6-25 Table Talk: Brunswick House, Vauxhall, London | The Sunday Times Magazine | The Times & The Sunday Times