ity to its dreams by making an industry ofthem.
You tend to forget about reveries, though,when the 101 freeway
slows to a crawl, as itdid when I began to navigate the road
inHollywood this spring. Time on my hands, Ilooked up and caught a
glimpse of the 73-story U.S. Bank Tower, referred to as Li-brary
Tower by many locals for the 90-year-old actual library and
architectural gem
across the street that it dwarfs.Completed in the late 1980s,
the iconic
Bank Tower is one of those structures thatsneak up in vistas to
remind you that yes,you’re in Los Angeles, in case you
werewondering. It was the tallest building westof the Mississippi
for 27 years, until theWilshire Grand Center was completed
thisyear. Designed by the architect Henry N.
In Los Angeles, Art Deco JewelsExuberant reminders ofthe days
when moviesruled the city’s economy.
By JOHN L. DORMAN
TREVOR TONDRO FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
CONTINUED ON PAGE 8
California’s broad landscape suggests end-less possibility, a
chance to realize yourdreams. You can backpack in the
KlamathNational Forest within Siskiyou County.You can find a slice
of Denmark in the SantaYnez Valley. Or you can immerse yourself
inthe glittery landscape of the Hollywoodhills, the place that has
applied a practical-
The Art Deco elements of LosAngeles Union Station,completed in
1939, are subtle.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2016
C M Y K xxx,2016-10-09,TR,001,Bs,E1
DISCOVERY ADVENTURE ESCAPE
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Call it India’s financial epicenter, glamourhub or culinary
capital — but whatever youdo, don’t call it “Mumbai.” The coastal
me-tropolis may have changed its name fromBombay to Mumbai over two
decades ago,but judging by their refusal to adopt its us-age,
locals are ignoring the memo. Morethan 20 million call the dynamic
city home,
and it feels as if there’s a piece of it for every-one — from
the families gathering aroundthe cotton candy vendors on
ChowpattyBeach to the fashionistas browsing exclu-sive boutiques in
renovated heritage build-ings in Kala Ghoda. You’re likely to
spendmuch of your weekend in bumper-to-bump-er traffic, but with a
bit of planning, you cansample the sights, glitter and art of
Mumbai— er, Bombay — in one weekend.
Friday•1 4 P.M. STROLL THROUGH HISTORYGet a taste of what the
city was like when itwas still Bombay — bastion of the BritishRaj.
Meander through the city’s southernreaches, starting at the Gateway
of India,overlooking the Arabian Sea: Completed in1924, this iconic
monument was built to com-
36 HoursM U M B A I , I N D I A
From beach to gardens to boutiques, a dynamic city beckons.
By SARAH KHAN
CONTINUED ON PAGE 13Hanging out at sunset on the promenade along
Marine Drive on the Arabian Sea.
PORAS CHAUDHARY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
8 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2016
C M Y K Sxxx,2016-10-09,TR,008,Bs-4C,E1
more than an hour of hand-churning. Fla-vors include sapota,
mango, fig and sitafal;cups cost 60 rupees.
•6 1 P.M. LEISURELY LUNCHSet amid the quiet lanes of the Ballard
Es-tate business district, Britannia is one of thefew remaining
cafes purveying Parsi disheslike berry pulao (from 350 rupees) and
mut-ton dhansak (650 rupees). The third-gener-ation owner Boman
Kohinoor is a fixture be-neath the whirring ceiling fans, and,
thougha bit hard of hearing, he’ll chat with patronsabout his
British royal fandom, as evi-denced by photos of Queen Elizabeth II
andWill and Kate lining the walls; the 94-year-old fulfilled a
lifelong dream when, thanksto a social media campaign, he earned
anaudience with the Duke and Duchess ofCambridge on a recent visit
to India. Formore contemporary cravings, the San Fran-cisco chef
Alex Sanchez’s much-lauded Ta-ble in Colaba serves hearty global
comfortfare: hoisin-glazed pork belly buns (750 ru-pees) and shrimp
tacos with chile-limemayo (725 rupees).
memorate the visit of King George V andQueen Mary. Then turn
your attention to itsneighbor, the 1903 Taj Mahal Palace Hotel,
acakelike confection that serves as a fine ex-ample of the
Mughal-meets-Gothic style ofarchitecture known as
Indo-Saracenic.Work your way north through Colaba andalong Mahatma
Gandhi Road into nearbyKala Ghoda, admiring the hodgepodge
ofstately buildings that line the pedestrian-friendly districts:
the bulbous dome of theChhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu
Sangra-halaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Mu-seum), the Gothic
Elphinstone College, theneo-Classical Army & Navy Building,
andthe powder-blue 1884 Keneseth EliyahooSynagogue.
•2 8 P.M. QUIRKY EATSThe New York chef and Top Chef
Masterswinner Floyd Cardoz returned to his Mum-bai roots when he
opened Bombay Canteenlast year, a lighthearted tribute to the city
heleft nearly three decades ago. Book aheadfor the executive chef
Thomas Zacharias’splayful offerings in this campy, colorfulspace:
Indian “tacos” with chicken tikka onfenugreek flatbreads (275
rupees, about$4); Kerala-style roasted fish swaddled in abehemoth
banana leaf (600 rupees); andcoffee rasgulla with salted caramel
icecream (350 rupees). The witty Hindi catch-phrases and Bollywood
references embla-zoned across the walls and on the servers’T-shirts
might go over your head, but thebold flavors won’t bypass your
taste buds.
Saturday•3 7 A.M. CRUISE THE COASTDrive up the coast before the
traffic picks upsteam. There are plenty of places for a photoop:
Start at Nariman Point, the heart of thefinancial district; work
your way up MarineDrive, also known as the Queen’s Necklace,where
you’ll see families strolling or seatedalong the promenade (along
with the occa-sional cozy couple); pop out at ChowpattyBeach before
the crowds descend; anddrive into upscale Malabar Hills to
theHanging Gardens before crossing over tothe scenic lookout at
Kamala Nehru Park.Then cut through busy Peddar Road andemerge near
the Haji Ali Dargah. Set on anisle just off the coast, the
15th-century mau-soleum houses the remains of the Sufi saintPir
Haji Ali Shah Bukhari and is connectedto the mainland by a
half-mile-long cause-way, access to which depends entirely onthe
tides.
•4 10 A.M. MUSEUM BREAKThe Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj
VastuSangrahalaya museum in Kala Ghoda ispopular, but travelers
pressed for timeshould head to Byculla. Like Bombay/Mumbai, the
striking Dr. Bhau Daji LadMumbai City Museum has gone throughsome
name changes in its long history. Themuseum opened to the public at
its presentsite as the Victoria and Albert Museum in1872; in 1975,
it was given its current name,in honor of a prominent physician and
phi-lanthropist. The high Victorian interiorsshowcase Indian crafts
and design — in-cluding lacquerware, silver, bronze, woodcarving
and more — while the upstairs gal-leries are dedicated to the
history of Mum-bai. Admission: 100 rupees for foreigners.
•5 11 A.M. SHOP FOR A STEALBreeze past the lanes filled with old
carparts and head straight for Mutton Street,the heart of Mumbai’s
Chor Bazaar —Thieves’ Market. The stretch of dusty an-tiques shops
is where Bollywood propstylists scavenge for faded photographs,
ro-tary telephones and other props to recreatea bygone era.
Grandfather clocks and furni-ture aren’t the most practical
souvenirs, soseek out shops brimming with posters andrecords for
classic Indian films. Then stopby Taj Ice Creams, around for about
120years, for a treat. The shop is usuallymanned by one of the
owners, the Ice-creamwalla brothers, and they’re happy toinvite you
to the back to see how the creamydesserts are made — a single batch
takes
•7 2:30 P.M. FASHION FIXThe bylanes of Colaba and Kala Ghoda
arebrimming with boutiques. While the con-cept shop Le Mill
specializes in globalbrands like Chloé and Balenciaga, the
newColaba location, hidden behind a non-descript facade, also
carries Indian labelslike Janavi and NorBlack NorWhite. Acrossthe
street, in the Art Deco Dhanraj Mahalcomplex, a new outpost of
Jaipur’s venera-ble Gem Palace features bold colors by thedesigner
Marie-Anne Oudejans and plentyof bling. In Kala Ghoda, browse
housewaresat Nicobar, and cutting-edge dresses andblazers at
Obataimu, an atelier-boutiquethat spends much of the year on the
roadgaining inspiration from destinations likeParis, London and
Tokyo. If cheap trinketsare more your style, then pop in and out
ofthe shops lining the Colaba Causeway,where you’ll find sandals,
dresses and fakejewelry aplenty. Bargaining is de rigueur.
•8 6:30 P.M. CREATIVE COCKTAILSAfter introducing Mumbai to
molecular In-
dian gastronomy with Masala Library a fewyears ago, the
restaurateur Zorawar Kalraunveiled the city’s buzziest new cocktail
barin March, serving up more molecular magicwith MasalaBar.
Cocktails meet chemistryin the form of theatrical drinks like the
Bol-lywood Bhang (vodka with basil smokeserved in a skull-shaped
glass). There iseven a nod to MasalaBar’s seafront settingon Carter
Road in the form of the ideal late-afternoon tipple: Sunset @
Carter (whiskywith rosemary, orange, and almond foam).Meanwhile,
snack on tasty tapas like ghee-roasted scallops and truffled
shiitake steakburgers.
•9 8 P.M. RETRO REPASTThe owners of Pali Bhavan scoured
ChorBazaar for their décor inspiration: You’llhave a hard time
finding an inch of wallspace that isn’t adorned with a framed
im-age depicting vignettes from India’s past —family pictures,
college portraits, scenesfrom aristocratic life. The Old World
diningroom sets the stage for a traditional feastfrom across the
country: classic butterchicken, harissa-spiced chicken
tikka,pumpkin kofta curry and galouti kebabs,washed down with a
pomegranate lassi. Ex-pect to spend about 2,000 rupees for two.
Af-terward, stroll to Punjab Sweet House forclassic Indian mithai
(sweets): pistachioice halwa, kalakand milk cake and
mangobarfi.
Sunday•10 9 A.M. BANDRA-BOUNDBefore the British, the Portuguese
cameashore — and the suburb of Bandra, popu-lar for its trendy
restaurants and Bollywoodstar haunts, is where you can see vestiges
ofthe Portuguese stint in Mumbai. Book awalking tour with
Raconteur, and a knowl-edgeable local will lead you through
land-marks — the 1575 St. Andrew’s Church andthe striking
neo-Gothic Mount Mary — aswell as through former fishing and
farmingvillages, pointing out street art along theway. You’ll end
at the 1640-built Bandra Fort(keep an eye out for Bollywood
megastarShah Rukh Khan’s house — you’ll recognizeit from the hordes
at the gates), where aneasy climb yields panoramic views over
theSealink bridge and the Mumbai skyline be-yond.
•11 11 A.M. TEATIMERecuperate from your walk at the Taj MahalTea
House. Last August, the Brooke Bondtea company transformed a Bandra
bunga-low into an elegant tearoom — completewith colonial-style
rocking chairs, colorfultiles, cheery floral motifs on the walls —
butthe main draw is the extensive chai list.Choose from variants
like Parsi mint (160rupees) and a Karipatta Delight with
curryleaves and citrus (140 rupees). Pair yourpoison with a
triple-decker egg sandwichwith fried herbs and chutney (400
rupees).
•12 1 P.M. ART BREAKThe 128-year-old nonprofit contemporaryart
venue, Bombay Art Society, has a flashynew address. At the nebulous
Sanjay Puri–designed structure in Bandra you can scopeout the local
art scene, with works by Lax-man Shreshtha, Yusuf Arakkal, Anjolie
ElaMenon and more.
36 HoursM U M B A I , I N D I A
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PORAS CHAUDHARY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Left, Elphinstone College in Kala Ghoda,established in 1856, one
of the oldest colleges ofthe University of Mumbai. Far left, from
top,Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, known asMount Mary Church,
during the weeklongBandra Fair; a statue of the Hindu deityGanesh
being taken for immersion in theArabian Sea at the beach at Girgaon
during theannual Ganesha Chaturthi festival.
THE NEW YORK TIMES
1 Gateway of India. 2 Bombay Canteen, Unit-1,Process House,
Kamala Mills,near Radio Mirchi Office, S.B.Road, Lower
Parel;thebombaycanteen.com.3 Nariman Point. Haji AliDargah.4 Dr.
Bhau Daji Lad MumbaiCity Museum, 91 A, RaniBaug, Veer Mata Jijbai
BhosaleUdyan, Dr. Babasaheb Ambed-kar Marg, Byculla
East;bdlmuseum.org.5 Chor Bazaar, Mutton Street,Kumbharwada. Taj
Ice Cream, Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mo-halla.6 Britannia &
Company, 11Sprott Road, Ballard Estate,opposite New Custom
House;91-22-2261-5264. The Table, ground floor, Kalapesi
TrustBuilding, Apollo Bunder Marg,Colaba; thetable.in7 Le Mill,
First Floor, PherozeBuilding above Indigo Deli,Chhatrapati Shivaji
MaharajMarg, Colaba; lemillindia.com.Gem Palace, D-18 DhanrajMahal,
Gateway of India, Co-laba; gempalacejaipur.com.8 MasalaBar, Level
1, Gagan-giri Apartments, Carter Road,Bandra (W); masalabar.in.9
Pali Bhavan, 10 AdarshNagar, Pali Naka, Bandra
West;91-22-2651-9400. PunjabSweet House, No. 3 & 7,Dheeraj
Arcade, Pali Naka,Bandra West;punjabsweethouse.net.10 St. Andrew’s
Church, 115Hill Road, Bandra West. Ba-silica of Our Lady of the
Mount(Mount Mary Church). BandraFort.11 Taj Mahal Tea House, 36/A,
Sanatan Pereira Bunga-low, St. John Baptist Road,Bandra-West;
91-22-2642-0330.12 Bombay Art Society, K. C.Marg, Bandra
West;bombayartsociety.org.
IF YOU GO
Check out our interactive map atnytimes.com/travel.
ONLINE: AN OVERVIEW
CONTINUED FROM PAGE
Ever since René Redzepi announced thathe’d be closing what’s
been possibly themost celebrated restaurant in the world,the only
thing harder to find at Noma than
out-of-season vegetables arereservations. Fortunately,there’s a
workaround. Just asummer plum’s toss fromNoma’s back door, Mr.
Redzepi has opened 108, a stylishly casualalternative that’s a
third of the price, yet farmore than half as good. Prep cooks
runingredients back and forth between the twokitchens, but a Noma
alumnus, KristianBaumann, is firmly at the helm.
Chef stalkers will find Noma staffersstarting their mornings at
108, where anadjacent venue called the Corner doublesas a
top-flight coffee shop with tea andpastries by day and a modern
enoteca withbeer and snacks by night. “It’s a friendlyvibe,” Mr.
Baumann said. “I wanted peopleto relax and have fun with family or
agroup of friends.”
Although 108 officially opened on July 27,it began as a 13-week
pop-up at Noma whileMr. Redzepi and company were off cookingin
Australia. The kitchen is already in prac-ticed rhythm, and the
first dish, like many
on the menu, had the hallmarks of Noma’screative perfectionism:
a raft of crispsteamed romaine stems marinated in apaste made from
the leaves, served withaged turbot roe and adorned with
marigoldpetals. Highly Instagrammable, it’s alsodelicious. The
restaurant’s bright, no-fusti-ness-allowed atmosphere makes you
wantto eat it with your hands — help therearrives with the bread, a
sourdough ryethat is satisfyingly crusty outside and
chewy soft inside.The menu is in Danish; instead of the
bucket-listers who frequented Noma, 108hopes to woo locals. “We
call 108 a Copen-hagen kitchen,” Mr. Baumann said. “Forag-ing,
fermentation and collaborating closelywith farmers are the pillars
of our kitchen.”
Take the cured mackerel that invigoratesa national staple with
fresh touches: saltedgooseberries, spruce oil and six sharpskin-on
triangles of fish. Or the caramelizedmilk skin (its texture like a
tender tortilla)filled with grilled pork belly and water-cress. For
bigger appetites, there is a sec-tion titled Livretter (Danish for
favoritedishes) with family-style servings of lambshoulder,
monkfish or grilled greens.
Go any time of day. Pair a sunrise overscenic Nyhavn with a cup
of single-originmicro-roasted cortado and a sticky wildblueberry
danish. Afternoon strolls andevening bike rides call for patio-side
rosé inthe shadows of drawbridges on the canal.JASON TESAURO
Bites 108 COPENHAGEN
A Noma Spinoff for Locals
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
108, Starandgade 108; 45-32-96-32-92;108.dk. A meal for two,
without drinks or tip, isabout 1,000 kroner ($151).
HANNAH GRANT
Caramelized milk skinwith grilled pork bellyand watercress.