Surftime Magazine

Unlike most other sports, surfing answers to the higher Gods of Nature. And regardless of how much you get paid to surf, or how many championships you have under your belt, the Ocean cannot be convinced, tricked or cheated in any way. Like most women, She will give up to you the object of your struggles only after you have paid her price. Jeren Kiring, paying the price at Plengkung, Alas Purwo National Park, East Java, Indonesia. Photographed by Fabian Van Holzen

Being paid to surf may seem like being paid to eat. But in today’s professional arena, there is a hell of lot more going on. And

that is what we are dedicating this issue to. The reality of being paid to play. Is it your dream? To get paid to surf? Do you want to make it more than just a dream? Then look to those who live it. Take a look at our opening article. Feel it. Jason Childs has shared with us his exclusive images from his last year of being paid to play with the world’s top pro’s. People he has exclusive access to. Look into the eyes of the surfers he has photographed. Champion Mick Fanning, Champion Kelly Slater, future Champion John John Florence. And take a look at his images of our Indonesian champions, Mega Semahdi, Rizal Tanjung and Lee Wilson. You will see in their body language alone that they all share one belief in common. That anything worth having demands a price; and that price is always work, self-sacrifice and self love. No paper currency, no empty promises, but real service to self. Platinum service to self. A price might be something you pay, but value is what you get back. Matt Haymes, a long time observer and surf coach here in Bali wrote a very special piece for us in this issue that gave us our cover statement, Paid to Play. Matt has been around the best in the sport since he trained the likes of Martin Potter and friends in the 1980’s and 90’s. Currently Matt is training Bali’s Koko Mitsua. Lucky kid. And the results are obvious. Koko is getting closer to his dream every day. Of getting paid to play. Such is the theme of Matt’s Article. Dedication and spirit. Don’t let life happen to you. Happen to it. So if you’re serious, really hungry, get your priorities straight. It is not by being rich or powerful that a man becomes better. The first is just a matter of fortune. The latter a matter of virtue.And virtue is all any of us have in the end. The cost of freedom is always high, but surfers have always paid it. And once this path has been chosen by a real surfer the path of submissionto a work-a-day life vanishes. And to be paid to play as a surfer means that you are not being paid for simply having an ability, but for employing that ability to its maximum level of excellence. In the surfing world, everyone is paid in two coins: cash and experience.Take the experience first, kid. The cash will come later. You will never get paid by the hour. You will get paid for what you bring to that hour.

-Matt George, Editor-in-Chief-

THE ISSUE OF:

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Executive Director: I Putu Surya Nalendra [email protected] Editor-in Chief: Matt George [email protected] Executive Manager: HarryPhoto Editor: I Putu Surya NalendraSenior Photographers: Jason Childs, Mick Curley, Pete Frieden/Liquideye, Josh Symon, Reposar/Liquideye, D.Hump, Tim Hain, Masters/Liquideye, Gene Kreyd, Nobu Fuku, Hamish Humphreys, Willysouw|WHSUP!!, Harry Pieters|WHSUP!!, Diogo D'orey, Rick Battson, Eric Lee, Gerhard Engelbrecht, Ricardo Borghi, Jeff Divine, Rebekka Nauli Siagian, Trevor Murphy, Brian Blank/liquideye, Sean Gilhooley, Rafael Lambert/liquideye, David Deckers,Justin Bu'ulolo, Bruno Veiga/liquideye, Roman Galasun, Mark TippleGraphic Operator: Mangku S. [email protected] Marketing & Promotion: Andrew [email protected] Accounting & Finance: Eka A. [email protected] Administration: Luh De N. [email protected]: Pak Epi. [email protected] & General Affairs: Komang Agus SriputraOffice Assistant: Komang Apel Web Maintenance: www.koekoeh.co.nr

Representatives: Jakarta ( PT. Akses Media Favorit, PT. Media Satu Global - Ari Afdilah ), PT. Point Break Indonesia, Bandung ( Thesi, Firman Boesly ), Yogyakarta ( AMF ), Semarang ( AMF ), Malang ( Indra G ), Solo ( AMF ), Pangandaran ( Asep ), Padang ( Substance ), Bali ( Swasti Agency, Hero, Giant, Carrefour, Mini Mart, Circle K & Pepito ), Samarinda, Banjarmasin, Mataram ( Royal Surf )

Publisher: PT. Extreme Sports MediaPre-Press + Printing: PT. Cintya, Denpasar

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Wayan Betet Merta, North Shore soldier. One of the few Indonesian surfers who takes himself seriously enough to meet the challenge of the Hawaiian professional season every year. The result...his sponsors then take him seriously. Sponsors ask one thing above all others…keep it real. And surfers like Betet Merta know that backdoor caverns like this one are as real as it gets. Photographed by Zak Noyle

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Max De Santis during brighter days at Padang Padang. In early January 2014, Max rang in the New Year by snapping the Tibia and the Fibula of his lower left leg performing a massive aerial at Uluwatu. Paying to play doesn’t always translate to money. Sometimes you pay with your body. Young and hungry, Max will be back in play by high season, this he assures us. Photographed by Everton Luis

INNERVIEWS//10 | THE YEAR OF LIVING DANGEROUSLY//14 | RADITYA RONDI: A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A CHAMPION//28 | WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS//34 | SACRED SESSION VIII: THE MENTAWAI CAMPAIGN//36 | CAVE PAINTINGS//44 | TOMMY SCHULTZ PORTFOLIO//46 | PAID TO PLAY//56 | GALLERY//58 | FASHION//70 | INFO PRODUCT//76 | REVIEWS//78 | CONTESTS//82 | NEWS//84 | LETTERS//86 | SURFTIME HUMANITARIAN # 16//87 | CLOSE OUT//88 | TIDE CHART//90 |

ASC WOMENS CHAMPIONANIMA FANSAMURAI

THE EMPRESSRINA KITAZAWA, 18yrs

“I think when you look inside yourself you can see how the ocean affects you. sometimes it is a happy ocean, sometimes angry, sometimes sad. but always the ocean is inside us if you surf. one of the best things i like about Indonesia is that the surfers here all feel like one family. Padma boys, Bingin, Uluwatu, Serangan. different places, different people, but always a family feeling. an ocean feeling. Indonesia makes you look inside yourself to find your own ocean. but we all play in the same ocean. like a family. ”

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Photographed by Rick Battson at Zoo pool, Kuta, Bali, 10JAN14, 1300 hrs

CEO HURLEY INDONESIAART COLLECTORDEDICATED FATHER

THE MASTER OF HIS UNIVERSERIZAL TANDJUNG, 38yrs

“Getting paid to surf is the best job in the world. i have loved it all my life. in the beginning it was like a dream. no pressure, just surf, some travel, do the best you can. but now…now being a pro surfer is a real world job with big pressure and big responsibilities. it’s less play and more work. but my advice to anyone starting out is: be who you are, work hard, play hard, and be happy about it all.” Left, Jason Childs, Middle, Rizal Tandjung and Right, Kelly Slater.

Photographed by Made Childs, East Side Bali, 20OCT13, 1450 hrs

THE YEAR OF LIVING DANGEROUSLYJASON CHILDS AT PLAY IN THE FIELDS OF THE PRO’SPhotographed by Jason Childs

1 4 SURFTIME 1. MICK FANNING, SUMBAWA

2. KELLY SLATER, BALI

THE YEAR OF LIVING DANGEROUSLY

Jason Childs is on the A-list. And so are the subjects of his photography. The hallmark of his images is that exclusivity, that trust he shares with

the best surfers on the planet. In celebration of our Paid to Play issue, we visited with Jason at his Kuta estate. His office looking like mission control. His kids at play in the yard.We asked Jason what he thought of being Paid to Play with the pro’s. He thought the best way to explain it was to go through his favorite photos of the 2013 season and speak of each one. So he did.

1. MICK FANNING, SUMBAWAWhen Mick was here in Bali for the Oakley pro, we got to do a paid Red Bull Trip. Mick is the guy for Red Bull and this trip was a mentoring program. He was mentoring two of Australia’s up and coming surfers. Mickey Wright, Owen Wright’s younger brother, who is going to be an amazing surfer and Luke Hynd, nephew of Derek Hynd. Some good blood lines there. So Mick was running a training camp and he is really good at it. The guy has disci-pline, man. And to hear him talk about the importance of things like body torque to these wide eyed kids…it made me want to go out on the ASP tour. Mick walks the walk.

2. KELLY SLATER, BALIThis is Kelly paddling out at his favorite spot on Bali. A rare secret of his. He even gave up going to Apocalypse with me last year so that he could get a chance at this spot. And when you watch Kelly surf a spot he really loves…it’s like watching a surfer from Mars…he’s on a whole different planet.

3. KELLY SLATER, BALIThat Kelly air was interesting, for one thing it is at airport rights. No one shoots there. This was a day we just loaded up and drove around on the ski looking for waves. And Kelly wanted to try the rights. But we had to leave because all the Japanese surfers went nuts and just mobbed him for a handshake. We fled. But it was a cool day because he could just be a surfer that day. We motored around and …uh…I guess we just had fun. Rare day for Kelly.

4. JACK ROBINSON, BALIJack Robinson in the same session at Kelly’s secret spot. I took Jack out on the Jetski and it was gnarly, a lot of water moving around…a lot. Even Kelly was cautious on a few. But Jack, only 15years old, is from Western Australia, mate, he is used to ungodly power. He didn’t even blink. He just paddled out and sat shoulder to shoulder with Kelly as if it was perfectly normal. Kelly was shaking his head, digging it. A little kid and the old master, trading punches on a gnarly day.

3. KELLY SLATER, BALI

4. JACK ROBINSON, BALI

5. JOHN JOHN, BALI

5. JOHN JOHN, BALII like that you can see a Balinese temple in the background of the John John shot. Otherwise this could be anywhere in Indonesia. This was a great session where they kicked me out of the Oakley Pro contest area because my jetski was the wrong brand. So I went down the coast to have a look and there was John John and Joel Parkinson working over this low tide slab that had no busi-ness being surfed on this tide. It had never been surfed like this before. Full death pits. But these guy’s confidence was such that they just ripped it like a beachbreak. A few kilometers away the contest circus is in full swing and here were were, soul surfing with the two of the best surfers in the world. That was a really cool session.

6. PADANG PADANGPadang Padang …our great October. What a wave. What a place.

7. EAST COAST BALII think what I love about that shot of the guys on the beach at sunrise is that looking at their boards, it could have been shot in the seventies. It has an archival feel. East Coast Bali 1972 or East Coast Bali 2014. Either way, timeless. And the cool thing is these guys are still riding these boards the way they did way back when. It’s like watching an old surf movie…live.

8. RIZAL TANDJUNG, BALIRizal is great friend and a quiet warrior. I mean how long has this guy been at the top of the food chain here? He is in a really unique position because to many of the top pro’s, he is their emotional connection to Bali. And a lot of that has to do with the fact that Rizal still surfs as hot as any 18 year old. And taking friends like Kelly to secret spots like this, right under the nose of everybody, doesn’t hurt. I love this shot. Because it is Riz in one of his very complicated secret tubes. Perfect technique and positioning for that heaving section ahead. Still waters run deep. Despite his explosive surfing and his competitive ferocity,

RadityaRondi remains a man of deep faith in himself and the world around him. A thoughtful Champion, with two ASC/ISC Title Belts and one7. EAST COAST BALI

6. PADANG PADANG

8. RIZAL TANDJUNG, BALI

9. ACE BUCHAN, BALI

10. LEE WILSON, BALI

9. ACE BUCHAN, BALIAce Buchan, working with me because the Hurley Photographer was too busy with the other team members. This was the session of the year. Kelly, John John and a reef that will remain unnamed cracking as good as it gets. Better than it ever gets. This photo really captures the thrill of it all. And all that clean water pouring over…very cool. And Ace is a real pro, no hand tubes, no dragging, no spray all over the place, no digging his backside in to the wave. A result of what can happen when a pro and a photog really work together to get an image.

10. LEE WILSON, BALIThe shot of huge Keramas is Lee Wilson. The biggest I have ever seen it ridable. That was just a mean, wild day. But Lee doesn’t hold back. But what I dig about the photo is that it is not a cutback or a barrel or an air, it’s just real honest surfing by a great surfer out in challenging surf. Driving, hungry. You can almost see what he seeing. And that guy in the foreground? Some tourist with an Ipad filming the whole thing. The ride was online 30 seconds later. Man…things have changed. This photo really represents the modern world

11. JAMES HETFIELD, JAKARTAI was feeling so nude in Jakarta for the Metallica concert. I didn’t bring a camera because I was invited, but I figured it was Jason Reposar’s photo gig. Reposar couldn’t believe it, he thought I was crazy and he threw me one of his camera’s. So I snapped a few. I was hanging with the Mayor, a real Metallica fan. But this shot really relates to the Ellis Ericsson shot, you know? Performance, exhuberance, a real moment of passion and celebration.

11. ELLIS ERICSSON, BALIEllis Ericsson. He can surf anything. I love shooting with him. Something different always happens when he is out. He is not posey, just artful. And look at that board. A whole different feeling. I am so lucky as a photographer to be mates with the best. It makes my work seem like…well…play.

11. JAMES HETFIELD, JAKARTA

12.ELLIS ERICSSON, BALI

A D A Y I NT H E L I F E

O F AC H A M P I O N

By Zarra EderraPhotographed by Rick Battson

It is Sunset. At the end of the first week of the

first month of the year 2014. I am in Kuta. The tourist battered fiefdom where Made Raditya Rondi has grown and lived all his life. The world still comes here to see these sunsets. The whole world, it seems sometime to Rondi. But, he says, atop his family’s restaurant portico, you can still hear the waves during Nyepi, his favorite time of year. Sure, Kuta bristles with tourists, but from his family’s rooftop perch at Goku resto on Jl.Benensari, his world is still open to the sky.

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Still waters run deep. Despite his explosive surfing and his competitive ferocity, Raditya Rondi remains a man of deep faith in himself and the world around him. A thoughtful Champion, with two ASC/ISC Title Belts and one ISC Title Belt, at 25 years old, Rondi is on his way to becoming Indonesia’s answer to Kelly Slater. It’s all a matter of faith.2 8 SURFTIME

All the photos in this article were shot in one day. Above, Rondi’s rock solid aerial act. Maybe not be the highest, but it is certainly the most powerful.

The sun has peeked through the monsoon, warming his blood and making his brown skin glow. In a soft, friendly tone, Raditya explains to me that, though a Champion many times over, he is not just a competitive animal. That he does not surrender his life to competition. That he is a man who is only trying to live a brave life. He does not want to crush anyone or cause any trouble in anyone’s life. Yes, winning feels good, and he does it alot. His multiple titles put the stamp on that, but it is the bravery of it all that he thrives on. Here, in the last light of the day, a usually very quiet Rondi becomes readable. My impression is that Raditya Rondi, despite his competitive ferocity, is a rather delicate and sensitive man. The way he looks around at the clouds, the birds he follows with his eyes, he seems very appreciative of nature, connected to it despite his urban surroundings, connected to the waves he rides, the life he lives. A...grateful man.

Grateful for things like his Uncle Ganti, who gave him his first board and has been beside him for his whole surfing life. An inspiration. The man who taught Raditya that surfing could be a life, not just a game. Who taught him to not let the rooster crow before he was in the surf. Dawn patrols are now in Raditya’s DNA. He says surfing at dawn brings him peace. Raditya says that is when he loves surfing, and his life, the most. Raditya Rondi is a champion who always seems to know what he is doing and why. His code is simple. Make your family proud. Do not hurt the feelings of others. Observe the spiritual life of a Hindu, be a brave Champion in all things. And never, ever stop thanking the creator of the sea, the waves and the surfing life we live.It is the last thing Raditya says to me. And as the last orange of the sun sinks into the sea, Raditya Rondi is at peace.

Homegrounds one

Homegrounds two

One thing that all Champions possess is tremendous leg strength. Rondi is no slouch in this department. Although a victim of a nagging knee injury, Rondi still manages mind over matter aerials like this whether freesurfing or in competition. For Rondi, every maneuver receives the best he’s got. The man is a study in maximum effort.

Di suatu sunset, akhir pekan pertama, pada bulan pertama di tahun 2014, tempat dimana seorang Made Raditya Rondi, tumbuh dan hidup. Tempat

berkunjung sunset, suatu area dimana kita bisa mendengar ombak pada saat nyepi. Tempat hiruk pikuk turis, yang memiliki area beratapkan langit di jalan benesari, tidak asing lagi Goku. Dalam hangatnya sunset, dengan nada dan suara yang ramah, dia menjelaskan kepada kita, bahwa tidak mengalah pada saat berkompetisi itu memang harus, tapi seorang Raditya yang akan beranjak ke usia 25 tahun ini, dia akan berani bahwa apabila dia memang harus berani, tapi bukan berani membuat masalah. Sangat terbaca, bahwa Raditya adalah seorang pria yang halus dan sensitif, yang sangat menghargai alam, ombak, hidup, dan wanita. Pria yang selalu berterimakasih dengan apa yang telah dia dapat. Nomer satunya, surfing. Rondi, seorang pria yang rendah hati yang dicintai banyak orang dan keluarganya, salah satunya paman Ganti - begitu dia menyebutnya orang pertama yang memperkenalkannya kepada surfing. Itulah saat pertama dia menyadari, bahwa surfing adalah hidupnya, bukan hanya sebuah permainan. Bukan hanya dalam dunia surfing, Raditya adalah seorang pria yang tidak akan mengijinkan ayam berkokok mendahuluinya pada saat matahari terbit. Tepat pada saat ayam berkokok, dia sudah berdiri diatas surfboardnya, mengendarai ombak dan menyelimuti dirinya dengan barrel.

Papan pertama dia dapat di usia ke-14, lagi dan lagi, dari Paman Ganti, pendukung utamanya berselancar. Keberadaan papan itu penyemangat yang besar untuk dia terus berlatih, hingga dia menjadi seorang Raditya Rondi. Tidak pernah terbayang olehnya atas kesuksesannya yang sekarang, banyaknya dukungan yang di dapat bukanlah pemacu utama alasan dia surfing. Namun karena dia tau, bahwa surfinglah yang harus dia lakukan, karena surfing membawa damai baginya. Bahkan, jika kau mendengar lebih jauh, cara pria ini mencintai surfing sama besarnya dengan dia mencintai dirinya sendiri. Puas dengan apa yang dia dapat, bukan berarti perjalanannya di dunia surfing sudah cukup. Baginya tidak ada kata cukup untuk terus mencari dan mencari ombak di sisi lautan yang lain. Sejauh ini dia mengendarai ombak, baginya, ombak di Indonesia adalah yang terbaik, untuk Raditya, ombak terbaik tidak harus yang terbesar. Kepribadiannya yang tegas, perencana dan disiplin ini, bukanlah tanda bahwa tidak ada satu halpun yang membuatnya berbagi air mata. Dia akan iba apabila melihat seseorang yang telah melahirkannya remuk redam. Di sisi lain, Raditya yang masih menunggu emas tempawan juga akan tergerak perasaannya bahagia, apabila seribu pasang mata Hawa mengarahkan pandangan untuknya saat dia berselancar. Raditya Rondi, adalah pria yang selalu tau apa yang dia lakukan. Baginya, selama dia membuat orang tua bangga, berbuat benar, dan tidak melukai perasaan orang lain, adalah sebuah prinsip hidup yang baik. Pria ini sangat menghargai semua hal, termasuk keyakinannya. Kesuksesan yang telah dia dapat bukanlah alasan untuk berhenti berterimakasih kepada pencipta laut, ombak, dan hidup.

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Though still reeling from the catastrophic pullout of Coca Cola Amatil’s financial

support of the ASC/ISC tour, the ASC/ISC tour remains undaunted. Sure, there has been a restructuring of roles, Tipi Jabrik has moved up to President Director and Tim Hain has now shouldered the big job of General Manager. But the spirit is as positive as ever. Dedicated from the start, with a global vision that is attempting to put Indonesia and Southeast Asia on the global surfing competition map, in most ways it has succeeded wildly. Indonesian Surfers have never been better competitors in Indonesian history. As a training ground, as an inspiration, as an introduction to the real world beyond the Kuta beachbreaks, The ASC/ISC has never been better poised to realize their mission statement. As Tim Hain says, “Good times are ahead if we all pull together”.

And pulling together, Tim assures us, includes always providing competitions that cover the entire spectrum of surfing in regard to age and gender. “The Women’s, Masters, Juniors and Longboard divisions are as important to us as the Open Men’s. Women obviously deserve respect and a fair chance, the Juniors are the future, the masters are the mentors and the longboards keep us in touch with our roots.

Wise words from the new leader of our free world. And with this brand of optimism and common sense, Tim Hain has become the clarion voice of progressive Indonesian competition surfing. And, with all our help, long may he reign. ARIP MENCHOS HURIDAYAT

2013ASC/ISC Longboard ChampionPhotographed by Anthony Dodds, Batu Karas, Java, Indonesia, 16JAN14, 1340hrs

WAYAN KOPLING WIRTAMAASC/ISC Masters ChampionPhotographed at Studio Mangku, Kuta, Bali, Indonesia, 22JAN14, 1515hrs

RAJU SENA2013 ASC/ISC Junior Champion

Photographed at Studio Mangku, Kuta, Bali, Indonesia, 22JAN14, 1515hrs

S AC R E D S E S S I O N V I I I : T H E M E N TAWA I CA M PA I G N

TOMMY AND THE ARGONAUTSPhotographed by Mick Curley

Pepen Hendrik, entering the octagon of the Greenbush express.3 6 SURFTIME

Pepen Hendrick’s surfing is anchored in physical core strength. With the brutish power of an MMA champion, it seems that every session for Pepen is a matter of life and death. Surfing with Tom Carroll, another relentless power surfer, their Mentawai greenbush session became the gloves-off duel of the year .

S AC R E D S E S S I O N V I I I

It was no mistake that Tommy Carroll was surfing’s original Aggronaut.

No, the spelling is not wrong. Bear with us. But if anyone fits the bill of Aggronaut, it’s Tom. How did it come about? Well, that will take a little history: Greek mythology’s favorite myth is the story of Jason and the Argonauts. Jason, a brave, invincible warrior, set sail on the good ship Argo with a crew of other brave adventurers in order to find the mythical Golden fleece, a ram’s skin allegedly made of pure gold. In other words, the ultimate trophy.With the latin word Naut meaning all things having to do with voyages, these men became known as the Argonauts. The sands of time took care of the rest and Argonaut became a description of anyone on a quest for something ultimate. A dangerous but rewarding voyage. An adventurer willing to risk his life on the quest of a lifetime. Enter the Quiksilver surf company.In the mid-eighties, recognizing that a young Tommy Carroll was on a quest to be a world champion, Quiksilver designed a campaign around Tommy that personified the Argonaut philosophy. Tommy was on an unstoppable quest, fraught with great dangers. So, being Aussies, they combined the word aggro, their slang for aggressive, with the word argonaut. And the result was Tommy as a new kind of voyager...the aggronaut.

Tom Carroll, two time World Champion, three time Pipeline Master. For him, the Mentawai groove was a cakewalk.

Surf Artist to the stars, counting Kelly Slater among the collectors of his oil paintings, Phil Goodrich is still a world class tuberider. And with Pepen Hendrik and Tom Carroll calling him into his biggest wave of his trip, Phil had no choice but to emulate the Pipeline master and the Indonesian warrior that watched on.

Tom Carroll’s approach was a combination of retired master and freckle-faced grom. The ease at which he disappeared behind curtain after curtain belied his child like glee with the conditions.

Seemingly ravenous, Pepen Hendrik drove through countless tubes on this day, with the end result never in doubt.

On the last wave of the day, swell dropping fast, Tom Carroll was still attacking with the murderous intent of a Spartan soldier. Here, three stages of ruthlessness. Not bad for a 55 year old. He made it.

Fast forward to recent history. Mick Curley, Pepen Hendrik and Rip Curl marketing manager James Hendy were on a quest of their own. They were scouting out the Mentawai at the bequest of the government for a suitable spot to hold the Rip Curl Mentawai Cup surf contest. They came upon a perfect, though hairy, day at Greenbush around the corner from Silabu Bay. Another boat showed up shortly after. A small figure jumped into the water immediately and starting digging hard for the line-up. The figure was so stoked that he forgot to take his baseball cap off. So he just turned it around rather than paddle back for the boat. Such was his intensity that he paddled right past his friend Mick Curley who was shooting water shots. The surfer was Tom Carroll, Former World Champion, on a search and destroy mission of his own. His power and stoke and dangerous intent so present that once the crew realized who had arrived, the whole session was ratcheted up to breaking point. It became a day of quest. Of laying it all on the line. And Tommy led the way. 55 year old Tommy Carroll led the way. Still the aggronaut. After all this time.Proving to us all that one need never go quietly into that good night.

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When a small warung was torn down recently on Jl. Benesari in Kuta, this mural was discovered in pristine condition. Artist unknown, circa 1975. Two days later the bulldozers

moved in and erased it from the face of the earth, making way for another tourist hotel.

Like signposts of the past, they are still with us. Stalwart and memorable in their unobtrusiveness. Evidence of

another time, another world. Paleolithic proof of our initial Indonesian surfing boom. You can still find these remarkable pieces of art, tucked away, overgrown, uncovered, battered by rain, wind and time. But like the first Batuan style of Indonesian art where surfing first appeared, these too reflect the first impressions of surfing to a culture steeped in ceremony and dance. Naive and two dimensional, these images, done by local artists, are interpretations of what must have been a mind blowing activity to these early observers. Doing their best to convey the ceremony and the spirit of this new aquatic dance. It must have been confusing, this concept of fun, but certainly the Indonesian’s picked up on the ceremony of it all. Surfers as a tribe of like minded believers. Whose temples were the sea. Whose worship were the waves. Whose ceremony was trance like and death defying. A profound proof of some sort of new faith. Not exactly pre-historic, but certainly historic, these paintings, and there are many if you look close enough, join the profound family of cultural cave paintings around the world. The earliest of such in Europe being dated over 40,000 years ago. Evidence suggests that the spirit in which these ancient expressions were created is exactly the same as today. Not merely decorations, but a way of communicating with others. Proof of life. Holding close, a religious or ceremonial purpose to them. Surftime Magazine vows to seek them out, and try to preserve these museum quality pieces of art. We ask you to as well. Send us the images you find. We will print them.The time has come for this unique Indonesian art to be curated. After all, they are us. The past memories that led to our present dreams.

A gardener recently uncovered this gem when he cleaned up the roadside entrance to a Bukit homestay. It is one of only two remaining early signpost’s for Padang Padang. The other hangs in a place of honor at the Rip Curl Headquarters in Kuta.

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Nathan Bartlett, crystal blue voyager, hauling into a holy chamber in Sumbawa. Tommy Schultz is a photographer who is very tough to get a read on. His smiling, nice guy persona allows him to blend into the crowd anonymously. But his extraordinary images are those of a true Artist/Adventurer. His photos have been among the most beautiful Surftime has ever printed. From swimming with Whale sharks to portraits of Mt. Agung, to images like this one. Though Tommy Schultz seems to be everywhere at once, he still remains a bit of a mystery.

A Nusa Lembongan expert, Tommy Schultz treats the place as his own private studio. Here, two studies of his muse. Left, Ocean clouds. Right, a local in a local competition looking every bit as serious about winning as any world Champion.

Schultz seems to have a knack for catching the spirit of a surfer both on land and sea. Here he turns his camera on the irrepressible Tai Graham, as rough and tumble a surfer as ever existed.

With water as clear as gin, and only 8 inches deep, Mega Semahdi smooths into a hyper-shallow secret spot that Schultz calls “the Mirror”. So shallow that Schultz needs to wear a full wetsuit, boots and a helmet to shoot here. Schultz, secretive about his movements, has been known to burn his maps and charts once a mission is complete.

Mermaid, Nusa Lembongan, 2014

Always experimenting with new positioning’s in the water, Schultz is like a contortionist when he is working. Twisting his body into yoga like postures to keep the results fresh. That’s the thing about his photography…it is so real and so clear…you can feel it against your skin.

Betet Merta, Backdoor Pipeline, an instant before our cover shot was taken. In his eyes, the commitment it takes to thrive in today’s pressure cooker pro environment. Despite the walking billboard requirements, and the new era of million dollar contracts, today’s pro surfer is far more than just a product. The body that drives the performance must understand certain disciplines. Dedications. Belief. And above all, individuality. Photographed by Zak Noyle

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By Matt Haymes, Professional Surfing Trainer, Shaper, Surfer, Blue water hunter.

The game’s got a whole lot harder. But at least the time has come to be paid to play.

It has changed the fun day at the beach, though. The days of catching a few waves with your mates is long gone if you want to go pro. These days it’s never ending video analysis, training and a new generation of surfing soccer Mums and Dads pushing their kids into the surf from infancy. Let’s face it, there’s a lot more at stake these days. Legally, John John Florence’s Mom manages over 7 million dollars a year. So what does it take these days to make it to The Holy Grail of pro surfing? Well, first and foremost it takes a shitload of natural ability, money and perfect surfboards. Gone are the days of grabbing a board out of the rack and hoping to win some cash. These days the top line pro’s are travelling with shapers, parents, wives, psychiatrists, coaches, mentors, dieticians, videographers... and understandably so. Big companies have gambled big bucks trying to cash in on the new breed. Ironic, seeing that it was the big companies that bred there own cash needy monsters in the first place. It’s like horse racing now. Big money, big risk. Pick a favorite. Win place or show. But is pro surfing now breeding surfers that are over analyzed? Robot like? Lets face it, everybody is surfing the same lines. Take off, barrel, re-entry, cutback, pump like mad for an air on the inside and pray for a score. But...let’s not forget that one of surfing’s most revered philosophies, that of Individuality, is still the key to becoming a true great. Anyone can do the training. Sure you can get stronger in the gym. But nothing can replace your individuality. What is true inside your head. If you do not know who you are and what kind of surfing you stand for, it doesn’t matter how many hours you spend doing squats...you won’t get the results. Nor the greatest financial commodity of all to a pro surfer: Fans. Without them, you won’t get paid a dime.As for performance, focus is the key. And it’s about understanding what keeps you focused. So the question is this: How do you program your subconscious so that your core beliefs will drive your supreme performance? Everyone knows someone who had the ability but just didn’t have the focus to be a great pro, many of the stories tragic. We lost a three time World champ this way. Remember him? He lost his focus. And we lost him. If it can happen to the greats, it can certainly happen to you. So to have what it takes for performance and longevity is a combination of ability, strength, courage and deep psychological commitment. And, in the new world, the ability to handle fame. With recognition comes pressure. As the pressure to perform radically, yet consistently over time, increases, so does the physical and emotional stress. To perform at one’s highest level, regardless of circumstances, is the most difficult head space to find on earth. But if you can find it, beyond the financial, what is the true reward to all this hard work?A life lived powerfully. When you’re head is right, really right, and you’re winning, you’re on top of the World. A real champion knows this. And deep inside he knows something even more important. Somewhere in the magic equation there has to be a loser.The idea is to never become one.

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GALLERY:INTO THE WILD BLUE YONDER

Having survived the disastrous Coca Cola sponsorship pullout of 2013, Mustofa Jeksen is still being Paid to Play by Coca Cola.

Rumor has it that Mustofa’s personal style, his unquestioned courage and his firm belief in himself were the deciding

factors to keep him on. In Pro surfing, it takes more than just natural ability to thrive. Photographed by Everton Luis

Top: Dharmaputra Tonyo, leading the squadron of Padma’s high flying fighter pilots. With moves like these, the place is more like an airport than a surf spot. Photographed by Liquid Barrel

Right: Sima Rai. Seen from above, the kinetic energy of our circular maneuverings crackle with electricity. The hand’s, man, the hands, transmitting his life force, directing his heart, conducting a dance as sophisticated as any Bolshoi Ballet. Sima’s cutback is among the best on the island. Photographed by Amin Freedom

Top: The cycle of life. The life’s blood of Nias. The whole story. Village world. The future in motion. Different machines being delicately walked to the sea, with the village girls taking advantage of the boy’s low tide game trail to both shyly ignore and subsequently attract their future husbands. A heroic moment for them all. Photographed by Pete Frieden/Liquideye

Right: Way, way off the beaten track in a new secret wave zone nicknamed “The Land of Rights”, a vertical wall a water forms as it has for thousand of years. 100 miles from any help, two wanderers ponder if it is worth the risk. From this writing, it has gone unchallenged. Photographed by Brian Blank

Top: Infinity. Eternity. Holiness. The morning of the world opens it eyes at Padang Padang. Photographed by Trevor Murphy

Right: Later in the day, inspired by the upcoming full moon Purnama ceremony, Koki Hendrawan gets a jump on the night at his beloved Uluwatu. What is the use of getting paid to play if you don’t keep the play in it? Photographed by Pedro Felizardo

Two forms of paid labor. One a hell of a lot more fun than the other.

Agus Blacky Setiawan capturing the attention of two seperate Sumbawan

tidepool collectors. One wonders what these women would think if told

it was rotational maneuvers like this that puts food on the table for the

Agus Setiawan family. One wonders what these women are thinking at all

when witnessing such ocean play. Photographed by Ropik

Top: Karla Ayesha, Naya Noor and Nisa Noor. Three Bingin local surfers who have also formed a harmony voice group. At the end of each day of surf, they sing and dance the sun down. Surfing, no matter how professional it might be, will never lose its soul. And its young ladies like these will make sure of that. Photographed by Eric Lee

Top: KobyAbberton. The surfing world has never been quite sure to what to call him. Freesurfer or gladiator? Bringing an untamed wildness to every wave he rides, this is one pro surfer who has never fit into the box. Scar Reef, Sumbawa. Wave of the day. Thank God for the savage among us.Photographed by Pedro Felizardo

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STYLE.FILE BY MADISON SETIAWANFEATURING // BILLABONG

PHOTOGRAPHY // THOMAS M. EDWARDS // HUMANS // LARA & TONY

C H R O N I C L E S O F S AYA N G

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INFO

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A. DIPLOMAT BLACK/BROWN RP. 5.810.000,-B. DIPLOMAT SS BLACK RP. 6.385.000,-C. DIPLOMAT SS BLACK/SILVER/GREEN RP. 6.960.000,-D. 48-20 CHRONO P SURPLUS/BLACK RP. 5.235.000,- E. 48-20 CHRONO P GRAND PRIX RP. 5.005.000,-F. 48-20 CHRONO P GUNMETAL/BLACK RP. 5.235.000,-

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A. 03MTF 48610 RP. 179.000,-B. 03MPF 03370 RP. 179.000,-C. 03MTF 43550 RP. 179.000,-D. 03LPF 00560 RP. 169.000,- E. 03JMS 00574 RP. 259.000,- F. 03 JMS 00570 RP. 259.000,-

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A. RF-00K128BLA RP. 399.000,-B. RF-00L170OLI RP. 1.549.000,-C. RF-003342MNV RP. 749.000,-D. RF-002611BZB RP. 699.000,- E. RF-002223BTU RP. 499.000,-F. RF-00C116CMO RP. 849.000,-

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B. RF-00L170OLI RP. 1.549.000,-C. RF-003342MNV RP. 749.000,-D. RF-002611BZB RP. 699.000,- E. RF-002223BTU RP. 499.000,-F. RF-00C116CMO RP. 849.000,-

DANE REYNOLDS SIGNATURE STYLERP. 595.000,-

BRIGG SCALLOPRP. 565.000,-

SCALLOPUSS AMPHIBIANSRP. 495.000,-

OG SCALLOP PRINT RP. 575.000,-

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AIR HAS ARRIVED 

True to its name, air (Indonesian for water) rung in the grand opening of AIR, Sanur’s newest resort and swimwear boutique, last Saturday afternoon,Dec 7th,2013. As though present to bid good fortune upon the launch of AIR’s first

concept space, the rains appeared and just as quickly departed in time for the festivities to begin. Friends, family, and curious street passerby joined the celebrations filled with traditional Balinese savories and sweets, refreshments, music, and of course, shopping. Each guest also went home with an AIR gift bag, containing Utama Spice product samples, an AIR postcard, a Chinese fortune, and a headband made with extra fabrics from this year’s collection. While AIR pieces have been sold in stores since 2011, this is the first shop Kasey Suwenda, designer of the women’s clothing brand, can call her own. Located on Jalan Danau Poso above the natural aromatherapy store, Utama Spice, AIR hosts an array of unique and retro colorful prints perfect for tropical destination wear or poolside lounging. “I am very grateful to Utama Spice for offering me this space for my shop. I would not have been able to launch this concept store without their support,” said Kasey. Overall, the event and even the weather were the perfect kickoff for Kasey and her fashion label, remarking, “It always rains on store openings for my family. It’s good luck. It’s AIR!”Store Locator: Sanur- Gopa Town Center, Jl Danau Poso, no. 57 above Utama Spice | Ph.+62-361-282836

NIXON CONCEPT STORE OPENS IN JAKARTA 

The second Nixon concept store is now open in Jakarta at the Plaza Senayan in Indonesia. Stop in to check out their new collection of Nixon watches and latest

accessories which include wallets, backpacks, belts, headphones, iPhone Cases, and hats. Hours are 10 am – 10 pm.

OP EXPANDS TO ASIA PACIFIC

Ocean Pacific in partnership with Itochu Corporation - Japan, has just opened a new concept store named “Crazy for OP” at the Ciputra Mall in Jakarta marking it the first

OP concept store to be opened in Asia Pacific. Two additional OP stores are now also open at the Cibinong City Mall in West Java and the Royal Plaza Surabaya in East Java. Each OP store is fully stocked and ready to serve customers with a complete range of Ocean Pacific Japan and Indonesia apparel, footwear, and accessories. Hours are 10 am to 10 pm, 7 days a week.

NEW O STORE OPENS IN LIPPO MALL KUTA2nd flagship store unsealed this year

After opening a new O Store at Oberoi area in Seminyak, PT. Bali Bijaksana finally unsealed the 1st Oakley flagship store to be located inside a Bali shopping mall

at the ultra modern Lippo Mall Kuta, located just 5 minutes from Bali’s International Airport.The new O Store offers a full array of high performance products, including sunglasses, apparel, footwear and accessories that will style up any daily activity; no matter if you are a professional surfer, a golfer or even just a weekend warrior.O Store Lippo Mall Kuta comes with Oakley’s new and fresh interior concept, designed specifically to improve the customer experience. The open eyewear display allows customers to touch and feel the new product, compare different frame material and choose the eyewear that best fits their face.

ELECTRIC LAUNCHES PREMIUM WATCH RANGE“Man’s love affair with the watch is centuries old. An accessory that not only defines the space of

time, but defines the person who is wearing it.”

2013 brought about a revitalized Electric identity, re-engineered logo, a fresh new website and an expanded product line including a premium watch line.

The new Electric watch category is instrumental in elevating the brands position by going beyond the core surf and snow retail channel and securing the brand as a premium label. Inspiration behind the new watch collection is drawn from the custom culture of Electric’s Southern California roots, and can be best defined using the concept of “re-engineered” classics.” Each watch is also defined by Electric’s new brand elevation approach; more sophisticated, timeless and truthful.The first phase of the release in December included both field and dive inspired analogue watches starting from IDR 2,199,000 to a IDR 5,499,000 Dive watch. They are now available to purchase from premium lifestyle boutiques and select retailers from Electric’s core distribution.

BOOK YOUR RETREAT AT IZE SEMINYAK

IZE Seminyak is the latest addition to Lifestyle Retreats. IZE is a chic, modern hotel attracting a young, sophisticated crowd keen to embrace the action in the heart of

Seminyak. Stylish, cutting-edge architecture and interiors combine with just the right amount of Balinese bonhomie to create the ideal urban tropical retreat. The hotel boasts 81 Deluxe rooms and Suites, gym, Meja Restaurant and Bar complemented with a roof top bar - lounge next to the resort’ impressive infinity pool: perfect spot for sunset cocktails. IZE Seminyak is ideally situated for guests wanting good fun, great food, shopping and a dip in the ocean. All guests need to do is take advantage of our Concierge Service: guests tell our experience team what they like (and don’t like) and the team will do the rest.For more information visit the website on www.ize-seminyak.com

VANS YEAR OF HORSE COLLECTION

Since 1966, Vans has grounded itself in supporting and elevating creative self-expression, whether from an action sports perspective or from a music, art, or street

culture background.  With the Year of the Horse Collection Vans Classics is collaborating with a fresh group of creative personalities, representing a new landscape of Chinese creativity.  From Street Fashion backgrounds, to Illustration and Music, Vans is working with creative people such as stylists Zhang Jiayi and Cherry Gun out of Beijing, shoe designer Kim Kiroic in Shanghai, and Hip Hop artist Kafe He out of Chengdu.  All artists involved in the campaign are working around the ideas of following one’s path, unrestrained expression, and freedom; character traits of the Horse according to Chinese zodiac.  These artists were tasked to build around the shoe and their own thoughts on the coming New Year, and present a creative project for Classic & Year of the Horse.

Calling out the original Sk8-Hi silhouette with iconic Sidestripe branding, the Year of the Horse Collection is presented in a solid color spectrum of Red, Blue, and Pink, in both Men’s and Women’s sizes.  As well, Vans will be releasing an exclusive black version of the Year of the Horse shoe, available only through select stores.  Speaking to a contemporary western cowboy style, the Sk8-Hi capsule comes adorned with fauxe Horse hair, leather heel back and shoe laces, and Horseshoe shape printed on the waffle sole.

THE BALI CUP: THE BALI SURFING ASSOCIATION SCORES AGAIN AT PADMA BEACH

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More a surf carnival than a contest, the Bali Cup is decidedly a family affair. And what a feast is was this year. The waves don’t even matter, the contest itself is so homegrown,

so fun and so together that it is the participation that counts most. After all, with a wise Ketut Menda on the microphone, how could anything go wrong? And the surfing from the kids? Even in the most atrocious, off season, monsoon afternoon blown out conditions, surfers like Koko Mitsua and Raju Sena were finding power spots from the outside all the way to the sand. Like surfing through a minefield, these surfers would find the energy and blow up giant airs and big carves Like stepping on mines. All in all, the BSA, a guardian of Indonesian

surfing, should be happy that they have been able to provide such a happening event, filled with generations of pride. Legacy is all.

Results: Junior Open Master Tag Team 1. Jeren 1. Raditya Rondi 1. Ida Bgs. Rai 1. Legian Boardriders 2. Koko 2. Km Sujaya 2. Akaba 2. Halfway Boardriders 3. Kasuma Rai 3. Darma Yasa 3. Wy Widiarta 3. Bingin Boardriders 4. Rizki Eka 4. Arya Gunata 4. Ketut Menda 4. Uluwatu Boardriders.

SUKABUMI SURFING CHAMPIONSHIP A SMASHER! IIn a hard fought series of four competitions held at four different spots,

the finest Java have to offer, Javanese surfing took a quantum leap in performance. Organizer Diki Zulfkar, one of Java’s most fervent promoters, said he was thrilled at the way things came down this year. That Javanese surfing is quickly emerging with its own identity. No longer does the sun rise and set on Balinese surfing. Continuing the legacy of surfers like the great Dede Suryana, Javanese surfing is poised to enter the national and international stage, thanks in most part to contest series like the Sukabumi. Congratulations to Diki and all the competitors. We look forward to great things in the future.

Results:U-12 U-16 U-21 Girl Division1. Dede Fauzi 1. Erik Damian 1. Teguh Widodo 1. Novitasari 2. Criis 2. Feri W 2. Mulya Akmal 2. Rasti3. Juan 3. Muldi 3. Rian Hidayat 3. Nika 4. Fadil 4. Rizal Hidayat 4. Ayeh 4. Bella

MADE LANA TRIUMPHS AT THE 2ND ANNUAL BARONG CUP AT ULUWATUPhotographed by Barong IWhen they say locals only, they mean it. Co-organizer Brian Blank, a bule himself,

calls it the “pure Blood” project. Here is how it works: To compete, you must be native born to Uluwatu. Last year it Ketut Alik Rudiarta took the honors. This year? Once again, Made Lana has proven his dominance as the alpha male of the Ulu tribe. In marginal surf, Made Lana dominated the masters for the win and paddled right back out to take fourth in the over 18 division. Surfing against kids half his age. More than the trophies it is the spirit of this contest that brings the most pride to Uluwatu. And mention must be made of new ripper KadekSayo, who thrashed his way to an under 18 title under heavy fire. May this contest live long and prosper.

Results: Masters Over 18 Kids 1. Made Lana 1. Agus Setiawan 1. Kadek Sayo 2. NyomanSudiarta 2. Wayan Gobleg Suyadnya 2. Cokz Mardana 3. Klepet Sudiarsana 3. Nyoman Tumbling 3. Wiriwan 4. Nyoman Sugita 4. Made Lana 4. Kinyik

Made Lana

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Quiksilver South East Asia Reaches 100 Store Openings //

Quiksilver South East Asia celebrated a wildly successful 2013 over an end of year party at their regional headquarters in Kuta, Bali. The year-end party was a way for the company’s regional distributors, internal staff, retail partners, teamriders, friends and family to reflect on a year that saw the opening of the 100th Quiksilver store across the region.

Billabong Now At Mall Bali Galeria //

Billabong is proud to announce the unveiling of its newly relocated concept store at Mall Bali Galeria. Go check out the new Billabong Boardshorts Panel: a cool and informative panel that sheds light on all the special – yet important – technical features of your favorite Billabong boardshorts. You’ll also find VonZipper tees and sunglasses, as well as the Billabong exclusive TEAM Membership program.

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All Day Breakfast At Meja //

Either you are early bird or late-riser; Meja Kitchen & Bar is the perfect place to start your day. Serving a Non-Stop

Breakfast from 7am to 5pm with diverse choice of egg sets, it allow everyone to find its favorite breakfast treat, from small to large appetite-eater. Vegetarians will appreciate that eggs can be substituted with scrambled tofu, while egg-white omelets are also available as low-calorie choice. A table!

Parko Renews With Billabong //

Joel Parkinson, aged 32 and resident of Coolangatta on the Gold Coast of Australia just signed a long-term contract extension with Billabong. “Parko” has been ranked firmly inside the list of the top five surfers on the planet for most of the new millennium and has been a part of the Billabong family since 1992 at just 11 years of age.

Garut Joins The Dragon Family //

Be it through contest results, international exposure or helping the next generation of Indonesian standouts develop their surfing, Garut Widiarta has been continually pushing the boundaries within the Indonesian surfing community. As a result, Garut has been recruited onto the Dragon team alongside Indonesian heavyweights, Raditya Rhondi and Putra Hermawan.

Sonny Perussel Wins Taj Burrow’s Small Fries Comp in Western Australia //

Big Congrats to O’Neill rider Sonny Perussel who won Taj Burrow’s ‘Small Fries’ comp. He took down the other boys with a pair of sevens in the Under 14’s and is super stoked to come back to Bali & tell his buddies about the comp. Well done Super grom! Sonny’s Canggu surf buddy Kian Martin put on a great showing as well, grabbing the Under 12 Small Fries title by getting a perfect 10 in the final, as well as placing 4th in the under 14’s.Great representation by our Bali-based groms, taking on Australia’s best and coming out on top!

In December of 2013 Asia’s best pro surfers gathered together to claim their championship trophies at the 3rd

annual Asian Surfing Championship Awards presented by Indo Inc. and Mantra Kitchen and Bar. In a fun and relaxed atmosphere surfers, local media, members of the surf industry and ASC staff members celebrated another golden year over an evening of drinks, food, sharing stories and a year-end wrap up movie by Indo Inc. The bar started flowing at 7 pm with free San Miguel Lights, Coca-Cola and Sprite passed around to the arriving crew who also picked up the latest issue of Surftime magazine to show off any shots of themselves in the latest issue. After an hour of drinks and at the conclusion of a specially prepared dinner the crowd was treated to Indo Inc’s 2013 ASC Tour wrap up video, a 15 minute trip down memory lane highlighting the great surfing events that made up one of the best tour seasons to date.

Finally it was time for the trophy presentation to honor the winners of the ASC and ISC divisions. In the end, RadityaRondiclaimed his 3rd consecutive ASC Open Championship title as well as his 2nd consecutive ISC Open title, Yasnyiar “Bonne” Gea took home her 6th consecutive ISC Women’s title, Arip “Mencos” Nurhidayat claimed the ASC and ISC Longboard Champion for the 3nd year running, and Raju Sena won his second consecutive ISC Junior and the first ever ASC Junior title.Japan’s Rina Kitazawa was the newest champion on the ASC tour, having competed in all of the ASC Women’s events in her first year winning 3 out of 4 and ultimatelyclaiming the title for the ASC Women’s Division. In addition to receiving trophies the lucky champions were awarded an all-expense paid trip to G-land, courtesy of Bobby’s G-Land Surf Camp. Pretty sweet. After the formalities concluded, the crew sipped on more San Miguel Light, Smirnoff ICE and other beverages until the early morning hours adding yet another memorable night to the history books. Stay tuned to www.asiansurfingtour.comfor this year’s ASC schedule

2013 ASC AWARDS CELEBRATED IN BALI

Rizal Tandjung, Raju Sena, Marlon Gerber, Ben Benson and Varun Tandjung

All the beautiful people

Arif Mencos Nurhidayat Rina Kitazawa Wayan Kopling Wirtama

Raditya Rondi Raju Sena Agus Deniawan and Tipi Jabrik

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Unidentified, surrendering to his fate with one last wave goodbye…but to whom? Nusa Lembongan, January 3rd, 2014. Photographed by Tommy Schultz

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“With all my skills, and all my reasoning, I still lost the battle. And all I could do was surrender and accept that I was in love.” -Paulo Coelho, philosopher, speaking of passion-

“Surrender doesn’t have to be a heavy, solemn thing. It can be a joyous relief. Finally the burden is off you”-Gerry Lopez, surfer, speaking of wiping out at Grajagan-

“Wiping out Sucks”-Pete Matthews, Rip curl Global Surfboard Chairman, speaking his mind-

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Photographed by: Brian Blank9 0 SURFTIME