SUPERIOR DIGITAL Special NYFW S/S 14

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I N T E R N A T I O N A L

F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W

F a l l — W i n t e r 2 0 1 4 / 1 5

J a n u a r y 1 4 — 1 6S T A T I O N – B E R L I N

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I N T E R N A T I O N A L

F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W

F a l l — W i n t e r 2 0 1 4 / 1 5

J a n u a r y 1 4 — 1 6S T A T I O N – B E R L I N

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NYFW Spring/Summer 2014

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Dear readers,

Katharine Mc Phee said, "It was literally like being a kid in a candy store." And she is right. New York Fashion Week is always fun and full of colourful designs and tasty shows. A special event deserves a special issue. Fifteen designers are presented in SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Special, all with the pursuit of passion.

The photographer and editor Semant Jain visited Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York presenting some of the latest trends and designers in this issue in interviews and photography. Additionally, Samantha Heydt is showing some of her impressions from Fashion Week.

Designer Custo Barcelona showed a mix of matching patterns. Other colour- infused designers like Ostwald Helgason and Mara Hoffman impress by printing kaleidoscopes on clothes. Interviews with Ovadia & Sons and Alon Livné give a closer look on chromatic and elegant fashion for men and women.

# Editorial

But, no colour is left behind. Often seen on the catwalk: the colour white. A short story about de-signer Alexandre Herchcovitch, who is performing fe-minine pieces with a trashy twist in black and white, represents season's most wanted.

Enjoy your escape into Candyland with our SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Special

Best,

Tom & Marc

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Betsey Johnson

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Editorial & Imprint -8-

Anya Caliendo

Custo Barcelona

Clover Canyon


Alexandre Herchcovitch

Beyond Closet

Anna Sui

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Milly

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Custo Barcelona

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Duckie Brown

Mark and Estel

Art Institute of New York Designers

Tracy Reese

Fashion Shenzhen

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Carmen Marc Valvo

Falguni & Shane Peacock

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B. Micheal America

Alon Livné

Mara Hoffmann

Ovadia & Sons

Ostwald Helgason

Dennis Basso

DVF

Herve Leger

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photo credit SAMANTHA HEYDT

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NYFW Spring/Summer 2014NYFW Spring/Summer 2014


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Custo Barcelona presented its Spring 2014 Collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on September 8, 2013. The collection—3C: Chic, Contemporary, Colour—represented the 32nd Fashion Week showing for brothers Custo and David Dalmau. The brand is known for bold prints and mixing and matching patterns, and this collection is no different. No color was left behind as the line showcased tribal-inspired patterns in aquas, blacks, crimsons, pinks, browns, plums, and metallic variations.

The collection featured soft exteriors over strong, bold piec-es with high waistlines, including several sheer looks like a sheer pink top combined with a bold metallic mini skirt.

editor in chief Semant Jain, Ph.d.

article editor alexandra Scheck

copy editor devyn White

fashion writer linda Zid

The tribal prints were highlighted with dishabille dresses paired with over-sized, woven coats. All of the models had hairstyles that were sleek in front, with some having messy, textured looks in the back that worked well with the punchy vibe of the tribal designs.

Many of the looks were capped off with sporty mat ching visors, as seen in a lacy white patterned print dress and a bold graphic print resort-appeal ensem-ble in blues and greens. All of the looks for women also featured thin-heeled pumps, buckled at the an-kle.

Custo BarCelona

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Custo BarCelona


The graphics printed on lurex al-lowed for a “shine and luminosity” with optical effects, according to the brand. A pair of cocoon pants paired with a shimmering pink crop top highlighted this effect, as well as a short graphic dress in black and white with bright orange, yellow, jade, and turquoise highlights.

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Shorts were also prevalent in the collection, including what the brand called “tiny shorts” seen in outfits that contrasted the revealing look on bottom with longer

sleeves in a bold print.

While many of the pie ces had a beachy feel, jackets were also prominently dis-played in the collection, in-cluding a colorful lime-and-leaf green parka look and an aqua-infuse-graph-ic-print jacket paired with a matching feathered skirt.

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The Dalmau brothers cre-ated Custo Barcelona in the early 1980s, after a long trip around the world. Their journey allowed them to discover not only new land-scapes but also the most varied of artistic, cultural, and philosophical expres-sions. They were inspired in California by the surfers in the south and the psyche-delic looks they observed in the north.

The line also highlighted several looks for men, com-plete with patterned slip-on shoes from the men’s spring shoe line. The looks harmonized with the wom-en’s looks, featuring similar patterns and color palettes.

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IntervIew wIth

AlexAndre herchcovItch

MaDE Fashion Week Spring 2014 Milk Studios, New York, NY

September 7, 2013

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor eliZabeth naSh

copy editor kim Pham fashion writer alexandra Scheck

website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit alexandre herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch presented his Spring 2014 collec-tion at New York Fashion Week on Saturday, September 7th. The minimalist collection focused on feminine silhou-ettes in black and white, the season’s hottest trend. In an exclusive pre-show backstage interview at Milk Studios, Herchcovitch told SJ Chronicle, “The clothing in this collec-tion consists of angled bands of fabric cut and pieced to flatter different parts of the body.”

When asked what inspired him for this season, Herchco-vitch explained that he “wanted to use a combination of different fabric strips and shapes and piece them together to accentuate different parts of a woman's body”—a tech-nique inspired by his own Spring/Summer 1998 collection. The first models down the runway wore sophisticated, masculine black-and-white satin pinstripes spliced with, for example, ruffles above the knee or chiffon draping around the waistline.

photo credit NYMag.coM

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The collection featured a number of white dresses that beautifully highlighted the feminine form. Herchcovitch gave classic pieces a fresh twist by using a fabric adorned with soft white sparkles. The trendier mini-dress and crop top with skirt featured shiny silver brush strokes along with zipper and button embellishments.

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The designer experimented with various silhouettes, ranging from classic mid- and floor-length fitted dresses to modern mini-dresses and cropped pants with over-skirts. Some of the looks also included jacket-like capes attached to the back. “My designs used to be darker,” said Herchcovitch. “I have moved towards incorporating more prints, colors, and I work to highlight the body in unique ways.” Herchcovitch is known for using eclectic prints, and this collection was no exception. He featured not only a micro ikat print but also an exotic zebra stripe and a splashy metallic purple pattern that gave a pop of color to black dresses.

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September 2013

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photo credit ANDREw bOyLE

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The designer achieved a subtle edginess throughout the collection by playing with chiffon, leather, lace, zippers, mixing patterns and fabrics. “I find myself designing with luxurious fabrics but using them with a contemporary twist,” the designer explained. Demonstrating this, Herch-covitch trimmed a zebra print with black lace embroidery in one ensemble, and paired black leather with a black ze-bra print in another. For many pieces, he placed zippers straight through the midline of crop tops and on jacket pockets.

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The designer also used lace fabric to make up a dramatic one-shoulder, knee-length dress that demanded atten-tion as it glided down the runway.

Hairstylist Rolando Beauchamp enhanced the collection’s silhouettes with asymmetrical side bobs for all of the models. He said, “My goal with this asymmetrical style—part short and boyish, part longer, waved, and feminine—was to express both masculinity and femininity.”

Herchcovitch’s spring ready-to-wear collection was polished with a hint of punk. The black-and-white color palette has made many appearances this season, but Her-chcovitch kept it fresh with bold patterns, sleek silhou-ettes, and funky mini-dresses.

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beyond closetMercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014

Industria Studio, New York, NY/September 5, 2013

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beyond closetby Tae Yong

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor allie robertSon copy editor alexandra Scheck fashion writer devyn White website WWW.SJchronicle.com

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Beyond Closet brought the men’s locker room to the showroom on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week. Designer Tae Yong presented a quirky take on athletic gear in his Gearing Up Your Muscles (or G.Y.M.) collection for Spring/Summer 2014.

The models in the presentation relaxed around exercise equip-ment; this isn’t sportswear to sweat in. Yong favored primary colors in his menswear collection – reds, blues, and soft yellows – and anchored the palette with black and white.

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September 2013

Catering to lovers of casual wear, Yong also included some pieces easily translatable to profession-al or formal occasions. The col-lection’s blue pea coat and mus-tard trousers would fit right in at a summer wedding. Still, the overall vibe professed the merits of simple, quirky sportswear, reminiscent of Hollywood-fa-vorite Band Of Outsiders or the commercial success of Uniqlo.

Many of the looks were preppy with a hipster twist. A tan leather jacket with contrast black sleeves was paired with black shorts and long athletic socks. Many of the men modeling the collection sported arm tattoos, offsetting tank tops and slim-tailored pants in the bright primary-colored hues.

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Yong also played with propor-tions in the G.Y.M. collection by pairing long, boxy coats with shorts and cropped pants. Remi-niscent of the gym, the models sported loosely fitting polo shirts rather than traditional form-fit-ting styles.

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Choice accessories provided the perfect twist to shake up the designs. One model’s styling utilized all of the primary colors, a washed-out blue polo shirt and a lemon-yellow, almost beige, undershirt. The accents of the ensemble, a bright red rope belt and a printed snapback hat, add-ed vibrancy exactly where it was needed.

Beyond Closet is still a relatively young brand, but its Spring/Summer 2014 G.Y.M. collection places it amongst its highest caliber contemporaries. It takes no stretch of the imagination to picture these designs on the street this spring.

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DUCkIe BROWN by Steven Cox

and Daniel SilverMercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014

Industria Studio, New York, NY September 6, 2013

Inspired by photos of South African farm workers, design-ers Cox and Silver created clean cut, apron-inspired jackets and long shorts. The designs were based around a charcoal, white, navy blue, and beige color palette with a few white and charcoal stripes added for emphasis. The collection ex-perimented with textures, layering lace over zip-up hoodies and creating separates out of burlap.

The first look was extremely clean with charcoal color pants and a white shirt-jacket. The pants were drop crotch and the jacket fell to the knee, resembling a lab coat or extra long dress shirt. every piece in the collection was open and free flowing. A second inspiration for the 2014 collection was the english schoolboy, with each piece pulling from a classic uniform look. Oxford shoes complemented polo shirts, button downs, and hooded sweaters. Despite the loose fit of the designs, each piece was crisp with a classic straight silhouette.

On September 6th, 2013, the second day of New York Fash-ion Week, designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver present-ed the Duckie Brown Spring 2014 Collection at Industria Studios. The models walked with clean, minimal makeup by artist Ralph Siciliano and 60s-inspired Purdey bowl cuts styled by Martin Cullen.

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor alexandra Scheck

copy editor mariSa lyon fashion writer anna Witt website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit Stefano maSSe

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September 2013

While the lyrics, “dress like a boy, walk like a girl”, from rap-per Leikeli46’s “Miss America” boomed in the background, the collection introduced less traditional menswear such as men’s skirts and drop crotch pants. The 26th look was a beige piece with an empty rice bag that served as the bot-tom of an elongated shirt, staying true to the South African farm worker and men’s skirt themes. These additions were a creative decision made by Cox as his way of trying to break down and redefine classic sportswear. Many of the jackets in the collection were long and reminiscent of rain-coats, while the elongated shorts and pants seemed like high fashion rainwear.

From the music selection to the men’s skirts and the open, elongated shirts in the collection, Duckie Brown definitely took a turn from classical menswear to a more taboo ap-proach. While the collection was incredibly impressive in the designs and inspiration, the ambiguous message about gender neutrality was what elevated the show to unique and memorable.

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ONLINEONLINEONLINEDIGITAL

Mark and estel

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Lincoln center, New York, NY

September 6, 2013


copy editor kim Pham fashion writer linda Zid website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit mark and eStel

Mark Tango and estel Day presented their Spring 2014 New World collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week on Sep-tember 6, 2013 in New York. Since launching in Los Angeles in 2005, Mark and estel have “purposefully [handmade custom clothes] to look and feel like that perfect old t-shirt that took you years to achieve its ripe age.”

The designer pair presented mostly monochromatic looks that boasted their signature edgy, rocker vibe hoping that this aesthetic will set wearers apart as fashion leaders. Hair and make-up were minimalistic which, apart from unique accessories, allowed the clothing to be the star. Notable looks included dramatic, feathered headpieces accenting long dresses and skeleton-inspired looks using rope and armor; the striking finale rope dress featured a stark, sprawling white skeletal image.

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The collection also presented tailored dresses, such as a short houndstooth look, which contrasted a flouncy skirt with a pointy, edged neckline. Another tailored look from the runway was a polished white dress with a cowl neckline as well as shimmery black and silver adornments that highlighted the hips and sleeves.

One dress, black with white lining and trim, added feminine appeal to the edgi-ness of other looks with elegant tailoring and a full skirt in addition to spikes on the shoulders.

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September 2013

Pants were also prominent in the collec-tion, each with a unique feel, including sleek black overalls, a black pantsuit trimmed in silver for a tracksuit-rocker feel, and ink blot-patterned bell bottoms paired with a comfortably loose white tank. This inkblot design also translated nicely to a long, flowing sleeveless dress.

Mark and estel added drama as well, fea-turing several pieces with dramatic, over-sized hoods. One of the few looks to in-clude a pop of color included a long, hooded white jacket with a coral tank dress.

“THIS COLLeCTION IS ABOUT LOve AND ROMANCe, AND THAT’S WHAT We WISH FOR YOU!”designer Mark Tango shouted at the show’s conclusion, leaving attendees flush with excitement. With over 12 seasons under their belt, Mark and estel have steadily grown their line, now available in more than 300 retail locations throughout the world.

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On September 5, 2013, the first day of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York, the Art Institute of New York City showcased the collections of ten of its most promis-ing students: Michael Doyle, Diana Isabel Sanchez Sacotto, Jai Park, Luz Ortiz, Isaiah Isaac, Haley Hysong, Daniel Jen-nings, Darhel Anthony, Josimar Torres, and Qutashia Lee. In backstage pre-show interviews, SJ Chronicle’s Shannon Ryan received the inside scoop from these student de-signers.

Out of all ten collections, few looks were body-con, instead putting emphasis on ease and comfort ideal for spring and summer. Josimar Torres, who sent models down the run-way in flip-flops, said, “[his] collection was geared towards people who are young but are willing to experiment. even though the clothing is black and white, the designs are re-ally fresh.” Minimalism and gender-neutral silhouettes were trends throughout most of the collections. The menswear looks featured in collections by Torres and Isai-ah Isaac and one piece by Darhel Anthony paired well-tai-lored pants with shirts whose hems hit just above the knee.

photo credit ISAAC photo credit TORRES photo credit DARhEL ANThONy

IntervIews wIth the Art

InstItute of new York

desIgners

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Lincoln center, New York, NY

September 5, 2013

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor allie robertSon copy editor alexandra Scheck fashion writer devyn White website WWW.SJchronicle.com

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The prevailing color palette spanning the collections was mostly white and black, with a hefty dose of maroon, as in Isaiah Isaac’s collegiate-to-corporate collection aimed at millennials. Some designers, however, sent a rainbow down the runway. “My collection was actually inspired by

the ‘60s,” said Haley Hysong, “not the costume-y ‘60s, but the color from the ‘60s.” Hysong’s designs stood out with bright, tropical colors like turquoise and orange, along with Qutashia Lee’s collection which utilized pops of pink on a fun, silver dress with drawstring detailing on the hem.

photo credit hALEy hySONG photo credit QUTAShIA LEE

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Many of the Art Institute collections conveyed strong personality. Jai Park’s models carried battered instru-ments such as broken guitar frets and wore chain crowns, accenting the mostly black fabrics with a rock and roll vibe. Diana Sanchez Sacotto’s collection also drew inspiration

from music, specifically a picture she found of a band in the Sahara Desert, with earth-toned pieces, bronze jewel-ry, and barefoot models. Luz Ortiz accessorized his line with long, tangled rope necklaces.

photo credit MIChAEL DOyLE photo credit DANIEL JENNINGS

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photo credit JAI PARk photo credit DIANA SANChEZ SACOTTO photo credit LUZ ORTIZ

Other designers gravitated to the avant-garde. “I like things that make a very big statement,” said Michael Doyle. “I like to work on the more avant-garde, not-so-wearable side of fashion.” Doyle’s models donned dress-es with dramatic collars and voluminous sleeves, along with hats topped by a long, sloping feather. Many of his designs featured sheer material, another takeaway from multiple collections in the Art Institute show. More whimsical designs came from Daniel Jennings, a Florida native whose architecture-inspired collection strongly emphasized the construction and draping of textured ma-terials.

Shannon Ryan also spoke with the key makeup artist behind these looks, Jackie Caruso, who favored a simple look. Caruso utilized vaseline to create some shine to the models’ complexions, and used products by Make-Up Designory.

The Art Institute of New York City showcase on September 5th provided a glimpse into the talent of tomorrow. We have a lot to look forward to, not only for spring, but for these designers to change the face of fashion.

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traCy reeseeditor in chief Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor alexandra Scheck copy editor kim Pham fashion writer r’ymonda daviS website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit tracy reeSe

On Sunday, September 8, 2013, Tracy Reese presented a cohesive Spring 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week that proclaimed her clarity of vision and accentuated the fearless nature of her brand. Floral prints and lace worked in harmony to complement the move-ment of passionate and unpredictable style. The collection consistently delivered the spontaneity and well-rounded-ness associated with the Tracy Reese brand.

Tracy Reese, who has garnered attention from both main-stream media and fashion industry insiders, produced a line that sang the song of free-spirited functionality and danced to a familiar beat of renewed vintage timeless-ness. The collection exhibited an effortlessly chic quality and included modern looks seasoned with the salt of class and sprinkled with the intentionality of femininity.

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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Lincoln center, New York, NY

September 8, 2013

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The designs included a variety of pieces, from a delicate eyelet sundress to a silk, printed bomber-style jacket, and showcased Reese’s creativity and penchant for effortless style. Floral, checkered, and filigree prints were mixed and matched for a dynamic presentation that simplified the idea of mixing prints and allowed the collection to exude ease.

Contrasting with the boldness of the various prints, shoes and accessories were subtle yet energetically styled. The shoes were functional yet striking, and further reiterated the strength of the collection. Printed scarves and fedora style hats added to the nostalgic feminine nature and appealed to the multi-faceted lifestyle of the woman Reese has attracted since her launch in 1996.

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The models were carefully chosen and radiated the signa-ture confidence of the Tracy Reese brand. The makeup was understated yet deliberate where gray eye shadow was placed on the inner lids to create a luminescent effect. Flo-ral tattoos were strategically placed on the models, further adding to the femininity of the designs. Hair was perfectly tousled to contribute to the effortlessly chic aesthetic. The hair and makeup techniques utilized created a powerful slate for the designs, translating effortlessly into the flow of the collection.

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Overall, Reese presented a collection that further solidified the establishment of her brand as one that charts its own path in the global fashion industry. Certainly no stranger to trailblazing, Reese delivered a collection that inspires the zealous pursuit of passion and purpose, paving the way for the next generation of influencers to create from the heart’s soul.

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IntervIew wIth guoxIn xIA And deng hAo of fAshIon shenzhenMercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Industria Studio, New York, NY September 6, 2013

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor mariSa lyon copy editor devyn White fashion writer SoPhia el-hayek website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit faShion ShenZhen

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Two designer labels from Shenzhen, China, presented their collections on Tuesday, September 10th, at Mer-cedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. ellassay and Deng Hao each showcased its own unique aesthetic and approach to fashion design for the coming spring. SJ Chronicle’s Marisa Lyon interviewed both designers as well as the runway hair stylist. They each gave us exclu-sive insight into the show and the looks for the day.

each designer had a unique vision for their collection, which was supported by the hairstyles. Hair stylist Rod-ney Cutler explained to Marisa, “Two looks today, one where it’s very high and glamorous and the other is sort of baggy and puffy.” ellassay CeO and designer Guoxin Xia told Marisa, “[This is my] first time in [Mercedes-Benz] Fashion Week; this experience is great.” Guoxin’s inspiration for the collection was Santorini Island, Greece. In his collection, he “used some special materials, some warm colors and basics like white and black.”

The chief designer’s assistant of Deng Hao explained just how much it meant to be at New York Fashion week. She said, “This is a milestone for us; we have been doing this for two decades.” While discussing the Deng Hao wom-an, she said, “We believe every woman is beautiful. There is a uniqueness inside every woman, and we try to bring out this confidence inside of every woman.” For this col-lection, Deng Hao emphasized their traditional floral de-tails. “The flower is our key element, we stay consistent.”

ellassay opened the show with black-and-white mens-wear-inspired tuxedo jackets. The first looks were ele-gant and simple, using printed patterns such as lattice and plaid. ellassay designer Guoxin used expert tailoring, such as flouncy layers on a sheer black dress, to give character to the pieces.

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Shorts, belted tops, and coats made from pearly white sat-in reflected the label’s profile of elegance, glamour, and so-phistication. The simply styled models wore light makeup with their hair pulled back and minimal jewelry. Their sim-plicity mirrored ellassay’s comparison of women to the natural beauty of a pearl, a theme seen in their fashions and overall creative direction.

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As the show continued, colors began to appear on the run-way. First to emerge was royal blue seen in floral detailing on pants and a white peasant-style dress. The colorful hues continued with mint green, pale blue, and deep plum. One noteworthy piece was a light orchid dress with femi-nine lacy details at the neckline.

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Deng Hao’s new collection was a direct contrast to ellassay’s in terms of color and theme. The palette included bright red, green, blue, purple, and gold, with floral embroidery—the rose in particular—a common element carried through-out the collection. Shimmering thread as well as shiny embroidery used in many of the pieces resulting in eye-catching creations.

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even the models reflected the flashy color scheme with eye shadow that extend-ed above the eyelids and onto the temples in bright blue, green, yellow, and red. The look turned the dressed model into a complete work of art.

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The foundation of the collection was a delicate balance of color, pattern, and elaborate detail. Color layering, espe-cially through the use of stripes, featured prominently. One look juxtaposed stripes and florals in a crop top paired with a patchwork pattern skirt. Brightly colored knits paired with jackets and sweaters could be mixed and matched for greater versatility.

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The casual daytime looks were made from knit fabrics; more formal pieces used printed silks with intricate embroidery. Formal gowns featured printed skirts with patterns reminiscent of stained glass. The final piece of the collection, a victorian-inspired hoop skirt, brought the show to a theatrical end.

The Shenzhen designers brought the grow-ing Chinese fashion scene to New York, of-fering a glimpse into the creative energy of Chinese designers and their variety of tech-niques and styles. As Chinese fashion cent-ers continue to grow and evolve, we look for-ward to seeing them at future fashion weeks.

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On September 6th, 2013, Carmen Marc valvo presented his Spring 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. valvo hit the mark look after look, from swim-wear to cocktail dresses to evening wear. For this collec-tion, valvo presented a cultural collision of traditional tribal patterns in a monochromatic palette that created the illusion of computer-generated images. The designs featured beading and paillettes as well as mesh and leather, combining the luxurious with a sporty aesthetic.

A short, flamingo-pink, body-conscious cocktail dress with scuba stripes and black leather blocking opened the show. Its length, high neckline, and leather detail immediately communicated valvo’s theme of sporty eveningwear. De-spite the pop of color in this opening piece, black and white was the show’s color palette.

CARMeN MARC vALvO

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Lincoln center, New York, NY September 6, 2013

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor eliZabeth naSh copy editor kim Pham fashion writer alexandra Scheck website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit carmen marc valvo

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Following the first look, valvo presented 29 stunning designs in shimmering black and white. Among the swimwear looks were several scuba-inspired maillots alongside a stark white bikini with skin-revealing cutouts implemented with black stripes. The one-piece suits valvo pre-sented were each black with minor white details presented in mesh or in beading.

Carmen Marc valvo is known for his per-fectly tailored eveningwear, and his Spring 2014 collection did not disappoint. The models strutted down the runway in gor-geous gowns featuring drop waists and an extraordinary amount of beaded detail. Mesh continued to appear in the evening gowns, showing up in a floor-length dress with black-and-white striped beading and a Massai neckline. Another piece had a mesh neckline and a pailletted chevron pattern. The designs dazzled on the run-way, capturing the light of camera flashes and the attention of runway show attend-ees, including American media personali-ty Regis Philbin and his wife.

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Black and white appeared not only in the designs themselves but also in the models’ hair, make-up, and shoes. NARS Cosmetics provided make-up consisting of nothing more than a white-painted lid with black eyeliner and mascara accentu-ated by a bare face and nude lip. Ted Gibson Beauty provided platinum wigs dipped in black and chopped into an edgy bob. even the models’ manicures and pedicures, done by Gina edwards of Morgan Taylor Lacquer, featured black tips on a white canvas.

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The two-toned look also appeared in the models’ shoes, designed by valvo himself. The Carmen Marc valvo Calza-ture collection, launched this fall, features cage heels and strappy pumps that perfectly match the designer’s glam-orous eveningwear aesthetic.

Although valvo’s collection was largely in two shades, each design was unique and eye-catching in its own right, leaving nothing more to be desired.

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IntervIew wIth fAlgunI &

shAne PeAcock

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor alexandra Scheck, mariSa lyon

copy editor eliZabeth naSh, kim Pham fashion writer lauren laPerriere

website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit falguni & Shane Peacock


September 9, 2013

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On September 9, 2013, designers Falguni & Shane Peacock unveiled a breathtaking futuristic collection that took Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week by storm. Many of the edgy yet feminine looks in the Spring 2014 collection were composed of feath-ers, leather, and sheer chiffon cutouts in vibrant hues of orange, blue, and purple.

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High-profile attendees such as Guiliana Rancic and Paris Hilton were dazzled by the eclectic collection. Paris Hilton, who has worn Falguni & Shane Peacock designs in the past, was spotted wearing an orange halter dress with silver bead-ing by the designer duo.

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Each model wore white, bob-style wigs to keep the look uniform and allow the garments to stand out. Makeup artist Kelly Thomson of Kryolan created a soft, natural look that she described to SJ Chronicle’s fashion correspondent Marisa Lyon as “really clean, almost not-there makeup.” A solid black, high-shine lip added to the futuristic theme.

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Marisa also interviewed designer Shane Peacock, who explained, “This season, it’s about everyone.” When it comes to the type of woman that inspires his and Fal-guni’s designs, Shane said, “being com-fortable. That, for me, is what we design for.” Shane went on to explain that with this collection’s themes and color schemes, they work against what they have done in the past. This season con-tained more pieces that reflected futuris-tic, galactic, and baroque styles. Designs included a black long-sleeve crop and matching chinos with Union Jack fabric on the calves and a monochrome high-low tube dress with baroque prints.

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Bursts of orange and cerulean blue blended together with monochrome stripes and floral accents, a staple at this season’s runway show. Featured ac-cessories incorporated leather in the form of chokers, futuristic banded cuffs that accented either arms, wrists, thighs or calves, and thick white or black cuffs on nearly every model’s wrist.

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September 2013

Falguni & Shane Peacock’s designs will surely make appearances on the red carpet in the near future; in addition to Paris Hilton, celebrities Christina Milian, Kelli Rowland, and Fergie have already worn their brand.

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B Michael America presented his Spring 2014 collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York on September 11, 2013. His floral inspiration came from the gardens of Giverny, the chateau of French artist Claude Monet. “You can’t beat nature in terms of borrowing from its palette,” B Michael said in an exclusive backstage interview with SJ Chronicle’s Sierra Leone Starks. But B Michael showed that you could take that palette and mix it with “modern im-pressionism.” The result was a collection of 44 looks, fea-turing lifestyle pieces, cocktail dresses, evening gowns, and a small assortment of menswear.

The first 10 looks that opened the show fell under the title “Monet Palette.” A fit-and-flare sapphire and emerald dress led the pack, the two colors swirling to form a floral pattern. Next followed a body-conscious piece in the same color pat-tern with lilac and sky-blue inserts.

B Michael believes the combinations and varia-tions of greens to blues to lilacs created by nature is perfection. The designer ended his “Monet Palette” with a sheath dress com-posed of watercolor hues reminiscent of a Monet painting, underneath a teal trapeze topper.

IntervIew wIth B MIchAel AMerIcA


September 11, 2013


copy editor kim Pham fashion writer Sierra leone StarkS

website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit Jayme thornton

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The next segment, titled “Whimsical Palette,” of-fered a selection of men’s seersucker shawl-collar jackets and trousers, meant to radiate confidence and relaxed chic.

“The idea is to dress men when they are away from the office,” the designer ex-plained, adding that his

menswear collection actu-ally started by default after he designed and created clothing for himself. The former Wall Street exec knows a thing or two about black-tie attire, but instead of the usual black, he opted for mints, whites, teals, and pinks, paired with multi-color paisley and leaf prints for the shirts underneath.


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Amongst all the color in B Michael America’s show, a segment of all-black gowns titled “Black Floral Fanta-sy” appeared towards the end. A near-black tulip found by the designer in the garden in Giverny in-spired the vision for these eight dresses. The first gown was a tribute to leg-endary actress Cicely Ty-son, who wore a B Michael America original to the Tony Awards ceremony; a shortened version was added to the Spring 2014 collection.

Referencing veteran model Lu Sierra, his friend and muse for this collection, B Michael said that “she epit-omizes feminine empower-ment. Her timeless chic style appears effortless.” Her runway walk in the de-signer’s final piece—a blue and turquoise strapless billowed tier gown—drew the whole crowd to their feet in applause.

cicely tySon

photo credit WWW.StYLELISt.ca

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“I spent time this spring going to paradise,” B Mi-chael said of his time in France. He emulated that experience on the runway in couture party dresses and glamorous evening gowns.

The choice to draw inspira-tion from a foreign coun-try—for a brand that refers to itself as “Advanced American Style”—was a bold yet effective move on the part of B Michael, prov-ing that inspiration can come from anywhere and lead to reflective and magi-cal moments on the run-way.

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IntervIew wIth Alon lIvné


September 10, 2013


copy editor kim Pham fashion writer michelle o. dente

website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit alon livné

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On September 10, 2013, Day 5 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Alon Livné introduced his Spring 2014 collection. An appealing interpretation of ‘80’s and ‘90’s fashion with a futuristic twist, the collection had an ultra-chic and modernly sexy demeanor expressed through sculpted jackets, bodysuits, and luxurious gowns. The garments were tailored perfectly with clean lines and intricate details. Touches of powder blue, gold, and fuchsia boosted the black/white palette.

In a pre-show interview with SJ Chronicle’s Marisa Lyon, Livné explained his collection: “It’s kind of ‘80’s/‘90’s fu-ture; very colorful, very strong.” His favorite piece, he said, was the opening look, a black and white peplum-style mini dress, adorned with a gold inset at the throat and a deeply v-cut and scalloped neckline highlighted with fuchsia. The gold and fuchsia highlights were repeated in bands edging the short sleeves.

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The detailing on all the garments was impeccable; from visors to printed vinyl, Livné flawlessly executed his designs. However, he didn’t master his designing skills overnight: Livné had the opportunity to work with and learn from late designer, Alexander McQueen. As he told Marisa, “For me to work with Alexander McQueen was an amazing experience, I learned so much. [He] was one of my biggest idols, so for me to work with him was a dream come true.” Livne reflected McQueen’s influence in his use of dramatic shoulders on dresses and shirts, unusually patterned necklines, and structural detailing.

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Even with his futuristic aesthetic, the designer managed to keep the pieces looking softly feminine, yet intensely fierce. A variety of exquisite gowns featuring artistic neck-lines cut out of vinyl and long, lavish sheers in solid blues, fuchsia, black, and white, romantically graced the runway. Satin kimono dresses added another feminine touch to the collection. A fuchsia satin mini with kimono sleeves out-lined in black looked effortlessly lovely.

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To complete the extravagant collection, makeup artist Rogelio Reyna for Bobbi Brown kept things light and natu-ral. Reyna explained, “The clothing is so bright [it] will brighten up the makeup, so with something like that, you won’t need so much.” Reyna also stated, “The eyes, we kept it minimal also. The brows were groomed upward because [Alon Livné] wanted it to be almost future look-ing…. The makeup, the more simple, the more elegant it’s going to look.”

As for the hair, stylist Nick Irwin for Catwalk by TIGI described his braided design, “It’s basically one central section in the middle, like a Mohawk, and then we did two skinny braids on either side.”

From the refreshing palette to the unusual details, Alon Livné created exquisite and uniquely beautiful pieces that will keep us longing for the future of fashion.

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Mara Hoffman

Mara Hoffman revealed a kaleidoscope of color at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Saturday, September 7th, 2013. Vivacious patterns inspired by Eastern cultures flourished on the Lincoln Center Stage runway. Hoffman described her “gang of rainbow warriors” as “brighter and bolder than ever,” and the Spring 2014 collection infused her signature boho-chic style with striking new shapes and patterns. From separates to maxi dresses, jump-suits to swimwear, she integrated a vari-ety of cuts and silhouettes to appeal to every fashion palate.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Lincoln center, New York, NY September 7, 2013

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor eliZabeth naSh copy editor alexandra Scheck fashion writer mariSa lyon website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit mara hoffman

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In traditional Mara Hoffman style, the collection broke the season’s black-and-white trend, infusing her outfits with the complete spectrum; no colors were off limits. The opening look instantly bright-ened up the room, hinting at the bold, sunny collection to follow. The dashiki top with ankle-length back and matching trousers featured a prism pattern of bright pink, tangerine, citron, lime, and purple snaked through the top and down the sides of the pant legs.

Hoffman softened the color bursts on some ensembles by pairing crepe de chine tops with patterned skirts. Solid-colored separates, such as the deep white v-neck and azure blue tailored pants, were accentuated with a Guatemalan belt to add more color to the look.

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Light, billowy fabrics, such as silk and chiffon, were staples in this collection. Sheer caftans and floor-length flowing skirts breezed down the runway.

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Known for her swimwear, Hoffman incor-porated several pieces featuring cosmic geometric prints and audacious cutouts in her collection. A rainbow tie-dye design created a modern-hippy look seen in sev-eral pieces including a one-piece swim-suit, jumpsuit, and flowing knee-length skirt.

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Accentuating the tribal vibe, models sported slicked-back center parts and braided pigtail extensions fastened to-gether with rainbow hair wraps. Gladia-tor-wrapped heels by Kathryn Amber-leigh and natural, clean makeup with red lips enhanced the boho aesthetic. Tying together the funky mixture of colors, the closing designs featured a beaded rain-bow arc against a white canvas.

At the close of the show, Hoffman took to the runway sporting pants adorned with designs from her collection. She and her daughter, in a matching ensemble, gave a thankful wave to an exuberant audience.

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September 2013

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IntervIew wIth ArIel And shIMon ovAdIA of ovAdIA & sons

New York Fashion Week Spring 2014 Eyebeam gallery, New York, NY

September 9, 2013


copy editor allie robertSon, kim Pham fashion writer lauren laPerriere

website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit david Prutting @ billy farrell agency

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On Monday, September 9, 2013, Day 5 of New York Fashion Week, designers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia debuted their Spring/Summer 2014 collection at Eyebeam Art and Technology Center in New York City. In their first ever NYFW presentation, the two brothers offered a versatile menswear collection that ranged from leather jackets to pinstriped suits.

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In a pre-show backstage interview with SJ Chronicle’s Kylie Peterson, designer Shimon Ovadia described his collection as “how guys dress every day in real life.” Their 2014 collection was certainly a testament to the fashionable, everyday man, whether he pre-fers casual separates such as tailored shirt-ing with chinos and sneakers or sharp- silhouetted, slim-fitting suits.

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The Ovadia brothers nodded to their brand’s roots in active wear and sportswear with pops of aquatic greens and blues and unique fabrics and materials. The coastal style of pieces such as canvas boat shoes in a variety of neutral colors also paid homage to the designers’ origins. Their color and fabric choices suggest that we’ll see not only a monochrome color palette but also various hues of blue and green walking off the runway and onto the streets next spring and summer.

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When asked what influenced this collection, Shimon responded simply: “It always starts off with clothing that we want to wear.” Ovadia & Sons strives to provide men of all types with everyday pieces as well as formal wear that men can see themselves actually wearing. Various models wore round-framed sunglasses as well as colored sweat-shirts tied around their waists that served as pops of color to break up the monochrome color scheme of the outfits.

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Models were men of all ages from various ethnic backgrounds, who were styled along the continuum from clean-cut to scruffy. Their diversity assured that just about any man could envision himself wearing pieces from this collection. Shimon commented, “These [types of men] are the guys that wear our clothing in real life.”

This collection’s success in appealing to a range of “everyday guys” suggests that we will indeed see many men in Ovadia & Sons this coming spring and summer.

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Ostwald Helgason, a brand helmed by designer duo Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason, presented its color-infused spring 2014 collection on September 7, 2013, at Milk Studios in New York City. Though this is only their second year at New York Fashion Week, this London-based pair has produced designs that have attracted high-profile bloggers as well as celebrities such as Rihanna and Solange Knowles.

Ostwald Helgason by Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason

managing editor Semant Jain, Ph.d. article editor allie robertSon copy editor mariSa lyon fashion writer kylie PeterSon website WWW.SJchronicle.com photo credit Stefano maSSe

MaDE Fashion Week Spring 2014 Milk Studios, New York, NY September 7, 2013

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The spring 2014 presentation featured vibrant, jewel-tones, dynamic patterns, and sporty silhouettes. Particu-larly noteworthy was a balloon animal print featured throughout the collection. Ostwald Helgason transformed the quirky motif into one of mild sexuality by adorning a t-shirt and sweater from the collection with a cheeky appliqué.

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With a combination of semi-struc-tured spring jackets, asymmetrical

skirts, and smartly tailored shorts, Oswald Helgason’s mix-and-match pieces promise a smooth transition from work to play. Each model also

flaunted uniquely color-blocked heels and some donned preppy- patterned neckties.

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Hair and makeup combined to create a low maintenance, no-fuss look. Each model’s silky, straight hair was parted in the middle and pulled back into a low-slung ponytail. With the exception of a bold pop of red on the lips, the look was the epitome of natural, fresh-faced makeup.

From head to toe, the Ostwald Helgason designers kept things playful with cheery prints and vibrant colors; wearers of these designs are sure to stand out this spring.

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