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The whole of the Indonesian archipelago is a biodiversity melting pot and this tour which combines two distinct faunal areas either side of Weber’s line, is one of the most endemic-rich in the region. This custom tour was successful with almost our entire long list of targets which on Sulawesi included the iconic Maleo, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, a full set of endemic kingfishers including the tricky Scaly Kingfisher, Sulawesi
Thrush, Great Shortwing and a host of endemic night-birds including the now expected Cinnabar Boobook and point-blank views of roosting Diabolical Nightjars. The avifauna becomes noticeably Australasian as we cross to Halmahera and here a whole new set of birds delighted us, headed by amazing displaying Wallace’s Standardwings raucously parachuting above the canopy, the bizarre Moluccan Owlet Nightjar, Ivory-breasted Pitta and an exceptional performance by the rare Purple Dollarbird. After travelling from various points of the globe we all met up in the town of Manado on the Minahassa
peninsula in north Sulawesi where we enjoyed some fabulous seafood and a comfortable night before beginning of exploration of the northern part of the island. Our first day began with a longish drive to the town of Kotamobagu although we did break the journey with a stop for a showy Buff-banded Rail, resplendent summer plumaged Javan Pond Herons, Red Collared Dove, Black-faced and Scaly-breasted
Munia and Java Sparrows at an area of rice fields and roadside stops for Black Eagle and some of us caught a Watercock sneaking across the road. After checking in and having lunch at our rather grandeur
residence for the next three nights we set out for our first serious birding. Our first destination was the highly successful Maleo conservation project at Tambun. Here we began along the nearby scrubby roadsides where there were many Barred Rails, a showy Golden-headed Cisticola, a roadside Grey Heron
and sightings of Rufous Night Heron were something of a surprise and in spite of the afternoon heat a pair
of Isabelline Waterhens casually strolled across the road in plain view of us all. Moving on to the reserve itself we added other excellent birds such as Spotted Harrier and a Sulawesi Hawk Eagle overhead, Knobbed Hornbills, Sulawesi Triller, Sulawesi Cicadabird and a brilliant pair of Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove at close range – the latter a key species here being absent from other areas on our route. We were also impressed by the distinctiveness of the white-eyed leucops taxon of Hair-crested Drongo here and the paulina Green Imperial Pigeons. In the late afternoon we headed into the nearby woodland and soon found a pair of Maleo perched up in the trees to end a superb first day.
The morning of the next morning was spent along the partially forested Molibagu road and we continued to add to our endemic tally with Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills (as well as many Knobbed Hornbills), White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, White-necked Myna, Sulawesi Crested Myna, Bay Coucal, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Pale Blue Monarch and the scarce Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot all performing while Grey-cheeked Green Pigeons and Black-naped Fruit Dove were also new. A different section of the road produced the expected selection of raptors taking advantage of the morning thermals and Black Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle,
Sulawesi Honey Buzzard, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle and Sulawesi Serpent Eagle in quick succession. Lunch at a humble homestay nearby proved to be one of the culinary delights of the trip and we were able to watch a very confiding Golden-bellied Gerygone in the garden, while at a nearby river Striated Heron, Cinnamon Bittern and the distinctive hispidoides race of Common Kingfisher all performed. Our afternoon exploring the scrappy forest at Toraut was particularly hot and sweaty giving quite low bird activity but with persistence we did find another Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove, Ashy Woodpecker a group of Yellow-breasted
Racquet-tails feeding on fruits right overhead then several views of Black-billed Koels completed the days
birding. The next morning was time for a return visit to Tambun and an early start meant that a close fly-by Sulawesi Nightjar was our first addition of the day. As the morning continued we added more goodies including Sulawesi Crested Mynas in the tree-tops, quite stunning looks at Maleo, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo and several brief views of Sulawesi Black Pigeon until they entered into a fantastic display flight and perched in full view!
In nearby paddy fields yet more Barred Rails were found, five Sunda Teal were new and a singing Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo was by the roadside. We then rushed over again to Toraut and this proved a great decision as on this occasion a group of Pied Cuckooshrikes had made their way out of the forest and were easily seen around the building there and after some careful searching a beautiful pair of Speckled Boobooks were enjoyed by all. The afternoon saw us return to the Molibagu road which was surprisingly active and we found more Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails including perched views, Pied Cuckooshrikes again and better views of
Sulawesi Crested Myna. After grabbing as much sleep as possible we departed from Kotamobagu in the early hours, heading for Gunung Ambang. The first excitement of the day came as a huge Sulawesi Masked Owl stared down at us
from a roadside telegraph post, with another flying past a while later. Upon arriving at Gunung Ambang we set off towards the forest, and after a frustrating search for one elusive individual, we found another
Cinnabar Boobook calling from a clearing just before dawn, described as recently as 1999, Cinnabar Boobook is still a rather mysterious bird known from just two areas on the island. As our picnic breakfast came to an end, the rain began, but we continued up the trail undeterred. This was quickly rewarded
when a calling Scaly Kingfisher was found sitting quietly in the understory by Sue and we all enjoyed
views of Sulawesi’s most elusive endemic kingfisher. The birds were generally quiet in the wet conditions so we headed straight for a reliable area for another little-known speciality and after a patient wait we had nice views of the rather subtle Matinan Flycatcher, here at the only known site for that species.
As we made our way back down the mountain bird activity had picked up somewhat and we were able to add Streak-headed White-eye, Black-fronted and Mountain White-eyes, Island Verditer, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Sulawesi Babbler, Yellow-vented Whistler, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Cerulean Cuckooshrike and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker to our tally. The best sighting was an agitated Chestnut-backed Bush warbler which betrayed its usual elusive nature by clambering up into some low trees in plain view! Before leaving, a pair of Fiery-browed Myna appeared at the forest edge and our first Spotted Kestrel and Black Kites were found in the adjacent agricultural zone.
The afternoon was taken up by the drive back to Manado for an overnight stay although we again stopped
to check the rice fields on route where Java Sparrows were common and large flocks of Scaly-breasted Munia were noted.
Heading up into the Minahassa highlands above Manado the next day we spent the morning along the quiet access road to Gunung Mahawu. Having already seen Scaly Kingfisher we were able to concentrate fully on other new birds and after some searching we had great views of Sulawesi Drongo, Crimson-
crowned Flowerpeckers, Sulawesi Myzomela and Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher. Superb Fruit Doves gave
fantastic views in between fog patches as did perched Brown Cuckoo Doves and furtive Mountain Tailorbirds. We also saw many Barred Rails on the access road and another pair of Isabelline Waterhens sneaked out in front of us. We then continued north-east to end of the Minahassa peninsula to Tangkoko, our destination for the next three nights. After lunch we headed back up the access road to Tangkoko where roadside birding provides panoramic views over the surrounding forests. After some early rain showers the birds were particularly showy and we had great scope views of White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Silvery Imperial Pigeon, Blue-
backed Parrot and flocks of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails. Our gentle stroll further along the road gave views of Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, a perched Sulawesi Hawk Eagle and two awesome Channel-billed Cuckoos which passed overhead before settling in a fruiting tree.
latter a Green-backed Kingfisher was watched at close range as he repeatedly erected his crest by way of a threat display and just a short distance into the forest our first of two Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher. As we made our way onto the hillier parts of the trails a pair of Tabon Scrubfowl required some careful stalking before allowing us all views but a stunning Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher was more obliging as it sat in the scope and our local guides skilfully located a pair of roosting Ochre-bellied Boobooks. Ashy Woodpecker also showed nicely.
In the afternoon we covered some of the same areas getting good views of many of the same birds and in
the late afternoon we visited one of the huge strangler figs which are used as a roosting spots for a family of Spectral Tarsier. The tarsiers soon became active and our point-blank views of these endearing creatures were undoubtedly one of the tour highlights. Even after dinner the action wasn’t yet complete and most of the group took the opportunity to sneak out and watch a Sulawesi Scops Owl calling around the chalets well after bed time. The next morning we spent some time trying to connect with our few missing species and we did well by eventually tracking down a calling Spot-tailed Goshawk in the canopy We also had great views of a pair of
day-roosting Sulawesi Scops Owls plus even better views of the Ochre-bellied Boobooks. An afternoon boat trip out along the coast was a relaxing contrast to the forest birding. The offshore fish traps attracted numerous Striated Herons and Pacific Reef Herons plus an immense Great-billed Heron and a flock of dapper Black-naped Terms, while both Osprey and White-bellied Sea Eagle passed overhead. Even before entering our intended mangrove river we had already spotted the bulky form of our main target in the nearby trees and with some carefully manoeuvring we had several amazing views of a Black-
billed Kingfisher at very close range. Additional sightings of White-rumped Cuckooshrike, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Grey-tailed Tattler, Sacred Kingfisher completed a most enjoyable and successful afternoon.
Our final morning in the area allowed just a short visit into the park and we used this in one of the open clearings to try and get better views of Ornate Lorikeets. We only got a brief view of the lorikeets which
would have to wait until later in the tour to perform but we did see Black-naped Fruit Doves, White-rumped Cuckooshrike and others before it was time to drive back to Manado airport for our flight into the Moluccas. After lunch on arrival in Ternate we boarded a speedboat for the crossing to Halmahera, after
noting Bridled and Great Crested Terns on the crossing we then easily found Beach Kingfishers almost the
instant that we neared the mangroves at Sidangoli and went on to see a total of five before docking. In the afternoon we drove the short distance into the hills above town where the shift in avifauna was striking with several species including Halmahera Swiftlet, Willie Wagtail, Moluccan Starling, Slaty Flycatcher and Blyth’s Hornbills seen for the first time. The next morning we arose particularly early for one of the most exciting days of the tour; our visit to a Wallace’s Standardwing dancing tree. The walk out to the lek is hot and sweaty but we entertained ourselves along the way by finding roosting Spectacled Monarch and an angry Moluccan Scops Owl. As
dawn arrived at the designated spot the forest filled with bird sounds, the most prominent of course being the raucous cries of the standardwings overhead. As the light improved so did our views as the birds called and jumped around their favourite trees. Other birds which enlivened the walk back included Golden Whistler, more Spectacled Monarchs, Shining Flycatcher and our first Long-billed Crows and Rufous-bellied Triller.
a pair of Cream-throated White-eyes perched on roadside wires! After dinner a select few travelled north to the village of Galela and made their way by foot and canoe to the spectacular volcanic-sand beach nearby which was soaked in moonlight on this evening. These periods of full moon are the prime time for Moluccan Scrubfowl to make their way down from the forests to lay their eggs on this beach. It is also the time when they are at the shyest because they can easily see any intruders on the beach so we were very happy to score a scrubfowl at amazingly close range within just
10 minutes of searching!
The next morning after breakfast we headed south again, following the coast as far at the sleepy village of Daru. From here we travelled across the bay, on flat calm waters, to the equally sleepy village of Foli. Careful checking of the numerous Common Terns during the journey found a Gull-billed Tern and a couple of Bridled Terns. The long disused logging road at Foli now provides easy access to a good stretch of mostly-logged forest where many of the specialities can be found. Over the next 2 ½ days we spent most of our time exploring from the road itself or along side-trails into the remaining forest patches. The open forests along the road were ideal for scanning the canopy and it was here that we saw a variety of parrots
including several daily sightings of Chattering Lory, Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrots and excellent numbers of Great-billed Parrots, Violet-necked Lory and several Moluccan Hanging Parrots. We struggled somewhat to find White Cockatoo until a timely rain storm bought them out into the treetops to dry. The open areas were also ideal for raptor spotting with several sightings daily of Pacific Baza, occasional Grey-throated Goshawk and even a fly-over from a rare Moluccan Goshawk. Many other targets are easily seen along the roadside including frequent sightings of Paradise Crow
(surely the dullest bird-of-paradise!), Moluccan and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Blyth’s Hornbills, Moluccan, White-bellied and Halmahera Cuckooshrikes, Common Cicadabird, Rufous-bellied Triller,
Northern Golden Bulbul, Dusky-Brown Oriole, White-streaked Friarbird, Moustached Treeswifts, many excellent sightings of Blue-and-white Kingfishers, clumsy Goliath Coucals and Dusky Scrubfowls were seen
a few times in the afternoons as they flew up into the trees to roost. There were just odd sightings of the scarce Drab Whistler, Halmahera Flowerpecker and White-naped Monarch, and a sighting of the frequently split musschenbroeki ‘Moluccan’ Drongo Cuckoo was a major bonus.
The highlight of our time here – and ultimately voted as bird of the trip – was a pair of Purple Dollarbird,
which showed amazingly both in perched and flight, allowing us to enjoy all the plumage details down to the brighter blue spangling on the throat. Brilliant! On occasion we also ventured into the forest to search for some targets. The most important of these was of course Ivory-breasted Pitta which obliged with several close fly-bys and some briefer perched views or this huge and striking pitta. Also in the forest we found Sombre Kingfisher perched right overhead, diminutive Blue-capped Fruit Doves, and after a long wait and an entertaining scramble up a steep muddy slope, a Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove.
We spent some time night-birding here, having several views of flying Halmahera Boobooks but only once perched, and Moluccan Owlet Nightjars gave us something of a run around until we found one while driving along the road which was obligingly perched in the open in clear view for as long as we wanted! Amazingly the later was followed by a Moluccan Scops Owl doing the same at even closer range just a few minutes later!
welcome pull-back after missing it at Tangkoko. It was then time to head back across the bay noting Whiskered and yet more Bridled Terns and make our way back to Sidangoli but along the way we made a stop for one of our few missing species and after some diligent scanning a huge Gurney’s Eagle did appear over the ridge, along with a Little Eagle – the latter an excellent sighting and is already split from
Australian birds by some major checklists. Then we could make our way back to the relative comfort of our homestay in Sidangoli. After some final early morning birding with included excellent numbers of Eclectus Parrots plus yet
another Chattering Lory sighting, we returned to Ternate for our flight south, passing right over Sulawesi to land in Makassar near the extreme south-west of the island. Despite of later than expected arrival in Makassar we still had time for a thorough exploration of some nearby fishponds which held a flock of Wandering Whistling Ducks, Sunda Teal, Little and Whiskered Terns, throngs of herons and egrets and a nice selection of waders including White-headed Stilts and best of all, several Javan Plovers including evidence of successful breeding. Other birds of interest included White-shouldered Triller (replacing
Sulawesi Triller here), our only Yellow-vented Bulbuls of the tour, many Zitting Cisticola, Pied Bushchat, Lemon-bellied White-eyes, Australasian Reed Warbler and a small group of Pale-headed Munia with their commoner relatives. The next morning we headed out to the limestone-karst forest of Karaenta. Our prime target here was Black-ringed White-eye which is endemic to this southern part of Sulawesi and which is pleasantly common here with our first views secured during breakfast and further views as we made our way along the forested roadside. Other targets gave themselves up quite easily and included various interesting
subspecies such as albicollis White-necked Myna (with a yellow-tipped bill) and sanfordi Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (with distinct black lines at the bill base). Once we tired of the traffic along the roadside we
headed down to Bantimurung in the hope of locating the undescribed Muscicapa seen here the previous year. We drew a blank on the flycatcher and the only things of note were a nesting Yellow-sided Flowerpecker, Emerald Dove, Black-naped Fruit Dove and several Moor Macaques – a very restricted-
range primate – before heading back to Makassar airport to connect with our flight mid-way along the
west coast of Sulawesi to the town of Palu. From here the remainder of the afternoon was taken with the drive into Lore Lindu National Park to our accommodation in the village of Wuasa though we did stop to enjoy a flock of our first Sulawesi Swiftlets of the tour and we arrived in time to see the Great-eared Nightjars coming out to play. The next morning we made our way into the beautiful montane forest within the park and waited with eager anticipation for the first daylight and the flood of new birds that typically accompanies the first day in a new habitat. As the light improved the birds didn’t disappoint with the activity such that we barely
walked more than 100 meters in the first few hours! Early excitement was provided by a male Blue-fronted Flycatcher which sang to us at close range, a small group of Malia creeping around the mossy trunks and boughs for almost our whole time here, Cerulean Cuckooshrikes, Pygmy Cuckooshrikes, Sulawesi Drongo, Greater and Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeaters, but the biggest surprise were two Olive-flanked Whistlers – feeding in typically unobtrusive fashion in a fruiting tree. This species is usually to be found at slightly higher altitudes than this and was a big bonus as in spite of its subtle appearance this
species has recently been boosted to superstar status by DNA studies which have elevated it into its own monotypic family!
belt and the temperature increasing on the roadside we took to a forest trail to try and find some of the more elusive denizens. The first to make an appearance was one of the most difficult birds of the area –
the fascinating Sulawesi Thrush – the affinities of which still remain unclear although they appear more like babblers than thrushes, there true relationships may turn out to be very different! Further explorations of the trail found a calling Maroon-backed Whistler but remained well out of sight, then as we made our way back the appearance of another Maroon-backed Whistler coincided with the sighting of a
leech (another Sulawesi rarity!) and only two of the group got a glimpse. After lunch back in Wuasa we spent the afternoon in the lower parts of the Napu Valley were we found Sulawesi Serpent Eagles and finally the whole group caught up with Ornate Lorikeets although they stubbornly refused to land! The next morning we were up in the forests well before dawn ready to make an early assault on the famous Anaso track. This track gives unique access to higher forest levels within the park but sadly is no longer accessible by vehicles leaving birders wishing to sample its delights with a rather tiring uphill walk!
We were on our way well before first light in order to reach profitable areas in the early morning. This worked well and our first stop at a large clearing gave lovely perched views of Yellow-and-green Lorikeets, flocks of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails screeching overhead. As we made our way slowly up the track we added Grey-headed Imperial Pigeons to the tally, then a pair of spectacular Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, great views of both Lesser and Greater Sulawesi Honeyeaters and three separate Mountain Serin sightings
although as is often the case they didn’t want to land.
Careful stalking of favoured sections of track didn’t produce the hoped-for Geomalia but we did manage to call in the elusive Maroon-backed Whistler for brilliant views. Over lunch we were able to enjoy amazing views of roosting Diabolical Nightjars, a species that was only
rediscovered as recently as 1998 yet now seen with ease on our tours. The afternoon again drew a blank
in the Geomalia hunt but compensation came in the form of an Olive-flanked Whistler, Red-eared Fruit Doves, two hulking Sombre Pigeons which gave a close fly past and yet more Purple-bearded Bee-eaters tail-wagging in the canopy.
birds in our sights. We started with a successful pre-dawn search for a rather distinctive form of Cinnabar
Boobook before commencing our diurnal birding. First to fall were charming Piping Crows perched close to their communal nesting tree. There were many other birds around Lake Tambing including nesting Yellow-and-green Lorikeets, fly-over Golden-mantled Racquet-tail and smart White-bellied Imperial Pigeons. Our big target here though was Ivory-breasted Woodswallow, and it didn’t take long before they appeared perched atop dead snags and giving an excellent performance perched and hawking around. We dropped down into the valley in search of the local race of Tawny Grassbird which led us a merry dance through
the boggy fields before allowing us views, then typically another appeared right by the roadside when we returned to the cars! This valley is the only known location of the species in Sulawesi so well worth seeing as insurance in case of future splits. In the afternoon we braved the rain down in the valley, not ideal conditions for birding but we did get great views again of Sulawesi Serpent Eagles, Sulawesi Crested Myna, our only Short-tailed Starlings of the trip, and at long last perched views of Ornate Lorikeets. We spent the next morning on another spirited walk up the Anaso Track finding a total of four Diabolical
Nightjars, a Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker and another flyover Mountain Serin but sadly the Geomalia were again absent and we had to admit defeat. Our afternoon stops in the lower valley did finally produce
the hoped for Purple Needletails as well as Sulawesi Serpent Eagle giving photogenic views. On our last morning we set of into a side valley to explore areas which just a few years earlier had produced some great birding only to find that almost the entire valley bottom had been deforested, a sad and sobering reminder of just how threatened the remaining forests are here. We therefore finished our
time at Lore Lindu with some roadside birding which turned out to be some of the highest quality birding of our entire trip with our best views of several species including close-range Crimson-crowned Flowerpeckers, posing Black-billed Koel, several Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers, Ashy Woodpecker, Sulawesi Cicadabird, White-shouldered Trillers and singing Sulawesi Blue Flycathers. In the skies Ivory-breasted Woodswallows, Sulawesi Honey Buzzard, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle and no less than three Sulawesi Serpent Eagles. In the afternoon we made our way back towards Palu but there was still time to finish our birding in style with a few hours around a scrubby river on the edge of town. Birds were typically
abundant here with flocks of munias including the scarce Pale-headed Munia, White-shouldered Triller, Lemon-bellied White-eye, Golden-bellied Gerygone and our only Blue-tailed Bee-eaters of the tour. Some time bashing around the scrub produced some excellent views of Savanna Nightjar, several Barred Buttonquail and a very close Red-backed Buttonquail that seemed rather confused by the prying eyes surrounding his chosen bush. Then it was time to enjoy the luxury of our Palu hotel and a fine meal as we
reflected on a fantastic tour around one of Asia’s most exciting birding destinations.
For information regarding our scheduled tours to Sulawesi and Halmahera please click here. Alternatively please contact us via e-mail regarding organising a custom tour.
Osprey Pandion haliaetus Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata rufa Sulawesi Honey Buzzard Pernis celebensis S
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Sulawesi Serpent Eagle Spilornis rufipectus S
Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis
Spot-tailed Goshawk Accipiter trinotatus S Grey-throated Goshawk Accipiter griseogularis M Moluccan Goshawk Accipiter henicogrammus M Small Sparrowhawk Accipiter nanus
Moor Macaque Macaca maura Sulawesi Crested Macaque Macaca nigra Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana
Birds of the tour
1 . Purple Dollarbird
2 . Standardwing
3 . Maleo
4 . Purple-bearded Bee-eater
5 . Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar
For information regarding our scheduled tours to Sulawesi and Halmahera please click here. Alternatively please contact us via e-mail regarding organising a custom tour.