STYLEIS Magazine

STYLE I S

The Dutch Issue

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fashion weekspring summer 2013 The mention of adult entertainment, marijuana and coffee shops in the same sentence can only mean one place. These iconic symbols have attracted many a curious traveller to the city of Amsterdam.However, the city is keen to show it has far more to offer. It is the cultural hub of the Netherlands, bustling with culture and art and open to all beliefs, genders, colours, and tastes; there is something for everyone. Amsterdam Fashion Week (AFW) has become one of the cities largest bi-annual events, attracting designers and fashion lovers from all over Europe. It is a chance to showcase the best of Dutch style with home grown designers and labels dominating the line-up.

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This year AFW introduced the Fashion Weekend to the Autumn/Winter collection to kick start the proceedings,

as designers took over the streets of Amsterdam. In true StyleIs fashion, we braved the cold January weather, including snow, to dig out the very best of the week and get a chance to talk to AFW’s Florence Mes, organiser of the unique weekend.

Meeting Florence at the event ‘Models on Ice’, a event typical of the weekend format with a free catwalk open to the public at the Museum Square ice rink, we began to regret our choice of location as we eagerly awaited the performance with ice cubes for feet. But this was soon forgotten in the spectacle as ice and fashion combined in a thrilling cat walk featuring some of the younger and upcoming designers of the week. This was exactly what Florence had wanted to achieve. “It isn’t just about the lavish shows with red carpets, guest lists and celebrities,” she explains. “For me, I want everybody to be able to enjoy a catwalk. The pop-up shows bring AFW to the whole of Amsterdam and local boutiques get to join in with their own collections.”

The Fashion Weekend was the perfect appetiser for a week packed with Dutch fashion. The busy crowd for ‘Models on Ice’ was packed full of young bloggers keen to take photographs for their next post. However, the big fashion names were to appear at the main AFW venue, Westergasfabriek. The quirky venue was a former gas works since transformed into a culture park and little way outside of the city centre, another reason Florence was keen to bring the weekend into Amsterdam Centrale.

This is when AFW burst into life, the catwalk, set against a dark background with club music to play the models down the runway. The Dutch love to party all night and that was clear. With our eyes fixated on the clothes, and certainly not the tasty champagne doing the rounds, we appreciated some of the designers lighting up the Netherlands growing fashion scene.

StyleIs was assured by Florence that there would be some great collections and designers we had never heard of; this was an

exciting prospect after what we had already seen on the streets and we love finding new desigers first! “Dutch fashion is really only emerging on to the global scene now. This show is still small in comparison to, say, London or Paris, but international attention is increasing. This is just what our industry needs and why this show is so important to Dutch designers who hope to have people all over the world wearing their clothes,” she explains.

It wasn’t long until we had a new name to add to the wish list – the first collection to impress was Amsterdam’s very own Claes Iversen, who received a rapturous welcome from the crowd of fashion lovers as he showcased his A/W2013 collection – ‘Un-tied’. A graduate of the Royal Academy of Arts in The Hague, who gained experience as an intern of Viktor & Rolf after winning awards for his third year work, presented his first collection as an independent designer in 2008. His accolades include winning the ‘Marie Claire Prix de la Mode’ for best national designer during his break through year. He now has his very own store in Amsterdam where he makes made to measure pieces.

His collection is named accordingly, through the use of bows to shape his outfits. Known for his re-interpretations of classic women’s garments, the suit was the main centrepiece. The focus was minimal colours, a heavy reliance on beige with high necklines. The flared trouser suit, paired with your favourite heels is the perfect way to re-create the Dutch look this fall.

As AFW continued, the lack of the world’s leading designers became more obvious. Even the Amsterdam based International fashion house Viktor & Rolf were absent from the show; highlighting the low-key standing of this event in terms

of the global industry. We posed this dilemma to Florence. “Obviously we want AFW to be as big as possible, maybe like London or Paris, but we don’t want to forget the grass roots of our fashion industry and stifle the designers we see here today. Who’s to say they won’t be Amsterdam’s next Viktor or Rolf. At the moment we are going year by year and increasing our media attention. I hope you’re going to go back to England with some new designers you love and tell everyone about them!”

In a way, the absence of the major fashion houses was somewhat refreshing. The collections showcased were no less appealing and revealed the essence of the classy Dutch style. The Tony Cohen collection was another home-grown success that has enjoyed international acclaim. Tony Cohen, born in Amsterdam, started his career in Italy where he experimented with garment dyed pieces. Success came in 2005 with the launch of his self-named luxury couture line landing the label an invite to the New York Fashion Week. Now five shows later he is one of the headliners of AFW, no doubt where he first showcased his designs.

His A/W 2013 collection, 2loveTonyCohen, included a versatile range of materials and styles that had something for everyone. The outfits included leather, chiffon and fur in a variety of colours. Whilst the collection didn’t appear to have a central theme, it seems a good pair of leather trousers are going to be in high demand come this winter. If there is one thing we can learn from Dutch style, it’s how to make trousers look good. However, our favourite piece from the collection was the full leather jumpsuit. Combine with dark eyes and black high heels to turn all eyes on you; we can certainly expect this Dutch inspired look to hit our high-streets back home.

As the Fashion Week came to a close there was time for one more designer to leave their mark on StyleIs. Esther Louise Dorhout Mees, graduate of fashion design from the ArtEZ institute and designer of many years for labels such as Tommy Hilfiger and Bruuns Bazaar, started her own label in 2010. She creates highly feminine looks and the basis of all her outfits is silk . Her A/W 2013 collection, Oxidation, draws influence from the process it is named after. The highlights were the comfortably fitting silk tops, perfect for a night out with a blazer. She used rusty and sandy colours along with dynamic black that could go with any outfit combination. Certainly, if you want an item that you know no one else will have this is the label for you. Dorhout Mees is still in its infancy even as a Dutch fashion label but through AFW it is slowly gaining momentum. The style reflects the quintessential Dutch style with sleek outfits and little use of bright colours.

As Florence reflects on AFW, she believes the show still has some way to go before it reaches the success of the London,

Paris, or Milan shows that Europe has to offer. “Dutch fashion is such a unique style, very Northern European and maybe a little individual sometimes. Maybe this lack of mainstream holds it back but for me it is what makes the clothes stand out. We have been getting more International recognition every year and I hope the ‘Fashion Weekend’ continues to make our show unique.”

For StyleIs, AFW was an exciting and different type of show from the usual London or Paris version. We found some great new designers to bring back to the UK! Florence Mes was a great host and seems passionate on promoting Dutch Fashion. The lack of major fashion houses kept us on our toes as we were never sure what might come down the runway. We’re sure many of these designers won’t remain Holland’s secret for much longer and we cannot wait for the SS/2014 collections this July as it all happens again.

For StyleIs, the three words that sum up Amsterdam are no longer Red-Light-District but Leather-Play-Suit.

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Chips is a daily fashion

blog created by Christine Reehorst,

based in Rotterdam, with whom Styleis has

been lucky enough to get an exclusive interview.

She talks to us about her love of all things british, dutch style

and how you can recreate her look yourself at home!

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True Dutch style starts at street level! Blogging in the Netherlands is the life blood of their small fashion

industry; at one time the country had the most blogs per capita in the world and this passion is obvious. The quality of fashion blogs from this small country is exceptional and they are the grass roots of an iconic look.

In any of Holland’s vibrant and colourful cities you will find young passionate people defining their distinct style and posting it to the Internet. They are always finding new outfits and combinations and are never caught short without their camera! There is a confidence about Dutch Street style that is just so appealing and we thought we’d bring you a founder who is one of the best! One, that you may find yourself addicted to – eagerly anticipating the next post, like the world may cease to exist if it never comes.

Christine first started blogging in 2009 as a film critique but thankfully moved into fashion quickly in 2010 with the creation of this now internationally popular site. She explains that her inspiration comes from “things I see in fashion magazines, films or just out on the streets in London or any other place”. She also enjoys reading blogs; “I have a few favourite blogs that I visit daily but those aren’t even all fashion blogs. I guess I also get some of my inspiration from there though.” The blog is clean and sleek with an abundance of photos showing off ‘to-die-for’ clothes, both designer and high-street, accompanied by great shooting locations. You will find yourself constantly adding items of clothing to your wish list along with a desire to travel to Holland and enjoy the scenery from where she creates her photoshoots. She accompanies many of the posts with small snippets of text with flawless English learnt when studying in Cambridge; smart and good looking! An undeniable combination, culminating in a blog of equal standing.

In fact, she doesn’t shy away from her love for the UK as she regularly posts images of London, her enthusiasm

for the capital obvious. “I’ve always loved the UK, it’s just an absolutely beautiful place...Now, whenever I take the Eurostar to London and the train comes out of the tunnel I get goosebumps and feel like I’m coming home. I love your Mulberry bags and raincoats, it is the place where I get most of my inspiration and energy from, this city has such an amazing vibe and it’s one of those great cities a person like me will never get bored of.”

Whilst talking to her it becomes obvious that Dutch street style is not simply about wearing Dutch clothes designed in the Netherlands. Her wardrobe is clearly varied and she gets much inspiration from foreign cities, namely London. However, this doesn’t make it British street style. She explains that Dutch style is epitomised by a skill of putting clothes together to capture a specific look; “Overall Dutch females tend to dress very casual”. This look is what is unique to Holland regardless of the country from which the clothes came.

This talent for creating outfits is something that seems to come naturally to bloggers in the Dutch fashion industry. No doubt that this skill has been driven by the quality of blogs coming out of the Netherlands. A fact that Christine is more than aware of, “I think some of the Dutch fashion blogs are definitely among the best out there and there are a few Dutch designers who are obviously very successful”. Nonetheless she is confident in her style and tells us what gives Fash n Chips the edge. “I would call my style classic and quite simple. I don’t blindly follow all the trends but I do like to try and incorporate some of them into my own wardrobe in my own way. But I think a lot of women don’t know how to make casual look stylish or feminine and I like to believe that I do.”

On the subject of trends, we asked Christine which ones suited Dutch street style and if she would be incorporating

any of them into her wardrobe for Spring/Summer 2013. “I like the 90s trend: sneakers, sweatshirts, backpacks...Stripes are also big this season and I think they can make for such a fresh look.” She shows confidence in being able to vary her look and put outfits together. This ability is showcased in Fash n Chips in every post; she has clearly overcome the

daunting fear of putting together risqué looks that many would consider but lack the confidence to unveil in public. She is happy to generate discussion in her comments sections about the success of her outfit choices and more often than not the response is one of pure admiration. Even when looks don’t come off she is more than happy to try again, “I might also give the floral print another go”. And like every fashion blogger she

has her favourites, even if she hasn’t found them yet, “I am still searching for the perfect pair of white point toe heels.”

Of course, we couldn’t end the interview without some flattery! Short of admitting we wanted to be her, we

asked what five key items we would need to copy her style and where she loves to shop when in England. “Topshop is one of my favourites, especially their boutique line”. And the look: “Black pointy pumps, Ray-Ban round wayfarers or gold aviators, a black leather bag, loose fit jeans and a classic blazer or trench coat”. Trying to achieve that iconic Dutch street style may not be that far away as Christine also admitted a passion for British designers. “I admire a lot of them! I am a big fan of Phoebe Philo’s work and particularly love what she’s doing for Celine. Her collections over the last few years have always been among my favourites.”

In talking with Christine, it is obvious that Dutch style is not so much a particular way of designing clothes but more a thought process to create classic street style looks. To get inside Dutch style is to get into the thought process that is unique to Fash n Chips and many other top bloggers from the Netherlands. To recreate this look ourselves we really need look no further than our own High-Streets and follow Christine for directions. See her blog at www.fash-n-chips.com.

“London is the place where I get most of my inspiration and energy from, this city has

such an amazing vibe”

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Phiney pettman is the lead print designer for topshop. She tells styleis the key pieces to see you through until autumn, how to style them up, and where to buy from the high-street this season!

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“This season it is all about turning the sheer trend on its head”. This classic look has stepped back and adopted a more simple approach. Expect patchwork sheer combined with more interesting fabrics such as leather and airtex to be popular on the High Street. “The styling is stronger than the floaty, girly association ‘sheer’ normally takes.” The favourite sheer shirt or blouse is

out; and in its place, demi-sheer with more stylish and sexy shapes.

“There are some great alternative sheer items – H&M have a great sheer bomber jacket and a lot of High Street and High End stores have caught on to the PVC and plastic accessories.” Try Cos or Mango for a combination of leather and sheer pieces, perfect for a relaxed evening out or even as a work piece! “See-through t-shirts over leather crops and shorts make this trend a

lot fresher”.

Whether you’re looking to designers or the High Street this season, you won’t struggle for a lack of variety when it comes to the sheer garment. Layering is key, with a variety of textures, to stop this look from appearing too revealing. The look is dynamic and

there is a piece for all occasions.

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The monochrome look continues to be a favourite amongst designers. “This trend has been around for two seasons now and does not look like it is going anywhere soon.” The monochrome style has a timeless simplicity and the choice of patterns has no bounds. Expect to see stripes, spots, blocks, and amorphous designs; of course, the only rule is strictly black and white

(and maybe cream!)

“Cheap Monday never fail with a monochrome staple – even their easy-wear signature t-shirt is black and white.” These neutral colours are also the basis of the brand Zara. They continue this season with some superb black and white items. Favourites include the jacquard cream blazer, black palazzo pants and the chiffon camisole. “I may be slightly biased in saying, but I truly believe that Topshop have developed a great range of clothing and accessories for this monochrome trend. ‘&otherstories’ is another store doing this trend amazingly well; they have so many great black and white single pieces and their accessories are

faultless.”

The cliché, ‘everything seems better in black and white’ rings true. Combine your favourite monochrome piece with black or white high heels for an elegant and eye catching outfit! If it’s high-end fashion you’re looking to re-create, stylewise, look no further than to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler. Both have produced some great work; creating original pieces, for a

contemporary look.

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A throw back to the 90s and the era of designer sports clothing, now under a different guise, Sports Luxe arrives en masse, on exodus since two decades ago. As expected, designers such as Lacoste, Paul Smith, and Tommy Hilfiger feature prominently.

The pressure to look fit and healthy has seen the popularity in this trend rise steeply and we can expect that to continue into the autumn. “Sports Luxe is still developing – next season I think it will take an even more tomboy route, with more

androgynous shapes and more masculine accessories.”

Like the 90s, body conscious cropped t-shirts, hareem pants and oversized sweatshirts are typical of the trend. Reminisce London 2012, the ‘year of sport’, to capture a more updated, fresh look. On the catwalks, silk track pants have been seen along with platform trainers, which do not seem to be going anywhere, anytime soon. Essential High Street pieces include

the French Connection silk varsity jackets and the leather baseball cap to accessorise!

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Spring / Summer 2013 will see the ‘print’ trend adding colour to your wardrobe. Think Rihanna. This style is completely at odds with the popular monochrome trend and will be perfect for those long summer days. Floral prints will make a return so

expect High Street shops to champion this look.

This season “it is all about the co-ord print! This concept began developing two seasons ago but has fully bloomed this year. It is about wearing as much of the same print in as many ways as possible. Girly girls are doing it with the super cute bralet and skirt, whilst the more sophisticated look comes in a jacket and trouser duo”. Expect a variety of prints from those

channelled from eastern influences, to geometric shapes; combine with sheer accessories to be bang-on trend.

If the bright co-ordinated look proves to be too bold, then clashing prints will also be popular come the festival season. “From ditsy-style prints to modern geometrics, everyone is channelling print on print. Zara, Asos and H&M are some of the

High Street shops doing it really well!”

GLOBETROTTER