6/8/2007 6/8/2007 1 Study Study of Indo-Portuguese silk bedspreads of 16th to 17th century from the collections of MNAA and NMS Teresa Pacheco Pereira Teresa Pacheco Pereira MNAA MNAA Carmo Serrano Carmo Serrano E.A.N. E.A.N. Crocus sativus L. 6/8/2007 6/8/2007 2 The Textile Collection of The Textile Collection of the the Museu Museu Nacional Nacional de de Arte Arte Antiga Antiga Indian embroideries for the Indian embroideries for the Portuguese market. End of 16th Portuguese market. End of 16th century / beginning of 17th century / beginning of 17th century century
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6/8/20076/8/2007 11
Study Study of Indo-Portuguese silk bedspreads of 16th to 17th century from the collections of MNAA and NMS
The Textile Collection of The Textile Collection of the the MuseuMuseu NacionalNacional de de Arte Arte AntigaAntiga
Indian embroideries for the Indian embroideries for the Portuguese market. End of 16th Portuguese market. End of 16th century / beginning of 17th century / beginning of 17th centurycentury
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MonochromeMonochrome quiltsquilts
The Justice of SolomonThe Justice of Solomon
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The Pelican feeding its youngThe Pelican feeding its young
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"D"Déécadas de Tito cadas de Tito LivioLivio" (" (ZaragozaZaragoza, , CociCoci, 1520). , 1520). Trasladadas por Trasladadas por frayfray Pedro de Pedro de lala VegaVega
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Scope of the Work
The global aim of this project was to identify The global aim of this project was to identify the original the original material used in the process of used in the process of ancient ancient Indo-Portuguese bedspread, bedspread, inin 16th 16th -- 18th centuries,18th centuries, from the collections of MNAA and NMS to confirm an origin.
Despite extensively studied from the viewpoint of the history of the decorative arts, the Indo-Portuguese bedspreads have not been analyzed in detail as a material object until now.
PortuguesePortugueseCoat of armsCoat of armsFlowers motives Flowers motives Animals motives: parrots, peacocksAnimals motives: parrots, peacocksPopular influence and ArabPopular influence and Arab((ModejarModejar) )
IndianIndianWar Scenes War Scenes Hunting Scenes in early 17th century Hunting Scenes in early 17th century Portuguese Portuguese and and Oriental costumesOriental costumesFloral motives with central medallions aFloral motives with central medallions ainfluence on Islamic rugsinfluence on Islamic rugsVegetative and geometric ornamentationVegetative and geometric ornamentationMystic animals: dragons, exotic birds and Mystic animals: dragons, exotic birds and hybrids..hybrids..MNAA N. 710
MNAA N. 710
MNAA N. 2232
MNAA N. 4575MNAA N. 4582
NMS N. 391
NMS N.392
NMS N. 159
NMS N. 390
MNAA N. 710
How many bedspreads?How many bedspreads?13 Indian bedspreads 1613 Indian bedspreads 16thth--1818thth -- MNAAMNAA
MNAA NMSN. 710 N. 390 N. 2137 N. 391 N. 3465 N. 392
Indian bedspreads M.N.A.A. (16th/17th century)
Cotton Tussah silk Bombyx mori silkN. 3413 N.2237 N. 112 (17th)
N.2281 (17th) N. 2226 (17th)N.3750 N. 4575N.3692 N. 4583 N. 4581N. 4582 (17th)
Indian bedspreads (18th century)Bombyx mori silk
N. 1926N. 2232N. 159 (NMS)
Conclusions: Conclusions: Identification of embroidery fibers
The Tussah silk and the cotton identified in the embroidery fibers on the bedspreads means they were made in India..
The Bombyx mori silk identified in the embroidery fibers on the bedspreads means that we can’t attributing an origin (India or Portugal), this type of silk exist in both countries at that time
Conclusions: Conclusions: Identification of embroidery fibers
Major component dyeMajor component dyeSourceSourceCommon nameCommon name
Published in Published in ““RegimentoRegimento dada FabricaFabrica dos dos PanosPanos de Portugal, de Portugal, OrdenadoOrdenadono anno de 1690no anno de 1690”” LisboaLisboa..
*Published in *Published in ““VITERBO, S. VITERBO, S. -- Historia da tinturaria em Portugal, Lisboa, Historia da tinturaria em Portugal, Lisboa, TypografiaTypografia da Academia Real das da Academia Real das ScienciasSciencias, 1902., 1902.
Indian dyes Indian dyes –– Red and blueRed and blue
Since antiquitySince antiquityAlizarin, Alizarin, PurpurinPurpurin, , PseudopurpurinPseudopurpurin, , xanthopurpurinxanthopurpurin
RubiaRubia tinctoriumtinctorium L.L.MadderMadder
Since antiquitySince antiquitySantalinSantalin A, BA, BPterocarpusPterocarpus santalinussantalinus L.L.Red sandalwoodRed sandalwood
Since antiquitySince antiquityAlizarinAlizarinOldenlandiaOldenlandia umbellataumbellata L.L.ChayChay rootroot
IndigotinIndigotin
LaccaicLaccaic acid A, B, C, D, Eacid A, B, C, D, ED=D=FlavokermesicFlavokermesic acidacid
Publication in Publication in Studies in ConservationStudies in Conservation 33 (1988) 133 (1988) 1--88VARADARAJAN, L VARADARAJAN, L -- Arboreal Sources for Traditional Red Colour Brazil and India, Arboreal Sources for Traditional Red Colour Brazil and India, personal notes.personal notes.
Identification of Dyes by HPLC-UV-VIS: Yarn ExtractionYarn Extraction
CrocetinCrocetin, the colored component from saffron, hydrolyzes in 15 min , the colored component from saffron, hydrolyzes in 15 min in acid extraction. Tin acid extraction. The extraction of saffron from silk, following the commonly employed procedures is not the best choice.
CrocetinCrocetin
EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract crocetincrocetin from the from the saffron yarn dyed samples without degradation, so it is saffron yarn dyed samples without degradation, so it is an alternative method in which concerns silk dyed with saffron.
The HPLC-UV-VIS data, indicate that saffron (Crocus sativus L.) can’t be identified after acid extraction.
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Analysis of the accelerated aged dyed saffron Analysis of the accelerated aged dyed saffron silk samplessilk samplesEDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract crocetincrocetin from the from the saffron (saffron (Crocus Crocus sativussativus L.) yarn dyed samples aL.) yarn dyed samples after artificial ageing?
Tr=4,3min Tr=6,3min, Tr=10,8min,Tr=11,5min e Tr=11,9 min,Tr=13,2min Tr=18,0 min
Apigenin
Tr=2,9 min 4-hba methyl ester
silk bombyx mori
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Comparison EDTA/DMF solution and Comparison EDTA/DMF solution and hydrolyze acidhydrolyze acid
ACID EXTRACTIONACID EXTRACTION
–– Method routinely used for 20 Method routinely used for 20 years for years for anthraquinoidanthraquinoid (red) (red) and and flavonoidflavonoid (yellow) dyes(yellow) dyes
–– Degradation Degradation produtsproduts for for flavonoidsflavonoids and and anthraquinoidanthraquinoidwell known well known
–– Process less efficient for Process less efficient for indigoidesindigoides which are more which are more hydrophobic but still allow the hydrophobic but still allow the identificationidentification
–– Destroys protein and Destroys protein and cellulosiccellulosicfibersfibers as well as some dyes: as well as some dyes: carotenoidescarotenoides, , antocyaninsantocyanins, , neoflavanoidneoflavanoid, and , and liquenliquen dyesdyes
EDTA/DMF EXTRACTIONEDTA/DMF EXTRACTION
–– Simultaneous extraction of Simultaneous extraction of several classes of several classes of compounds: compounds: anthraquinonsanthraquinons, , carotenoidscarotenoids, indigoids e , indigoids e flavonoidsflavonoids
–– Extraction of a high number Extraction of a high number of of carotenoidscarotenoids and and flavonoidsflavonoids
–– FiberFiber sufficiently intact for sufficiently intact for use in further examinations use in further examinations as well as some minority as well as some minority components.components.
N. 710 and N.3465 - IndigotinN. 710 and N.3465 – Indigotin + elagitaninsN. 710 - Indigotin + weld
N.2137 N.2137 -- IndigotinIndigotin+ elagitanins
Yellows
Browns
Reds
Greens
Blues
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N. 710- 18th century
Results: 18th IndoResults: 18th Indo--Portuguese bedspreads from NMSPortuguese bedspreads from NMS
NMS N. 391
NMS N.392
NMS N. 390
NMS N. 159
Yellows Browns
Reds
Greens
Blues
N. 159 – Turmeric
N. 390 – Weld + Brazilwood
N. 391 - Weld
N. 392 – Weld + Brazilwood
N. 390 – Weld and
Brazilwood
N. 159 - Kermes
N. 390 and N. 391 - Safflower + weld
N. 392 - Brazilwood
N. 391 - Brazilwood + weld
N. 159 - Cochineal + turmeric
N. 390 e N. 392 - Weld + indigotin
N. 390 - Weld + Madder+ indigotin
N. 390 e N.391 - Weld + indigo
N. 390 - Indigotin + Madder
N. 392 - Indigotin + elagitanins
Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Portuguese bedspreads of MNAAPortuguese bedspreads of MNAA and NMSand NMS
The data obtained in the bedspreads N. 710, N. 2137 and N. 3465 The data obtained in the bedspreads N. 710, N. 2137 and N. 3465 from MNAA and from MNAA and N. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 from NMS agreeN. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 from NMS agreess with the results published in with the results published in ““RegimentoRegimento dada FabricaFabrica dos dos PanosPanos de Portugalde Portugal”” OrdenadoOrdenado no anno de 1690no anno de 1690””LisboaLisboa::
Dyers after 1690 are not allowed to: Dyers after 1690 are not allowed to: Add Madder to WeldAdd Madder to WeldUse Use brazilwoodbrazilwood alonealone
Yellows• Weld, •Weldand/or Young fusticN. 710 (18th century) N. 390 (18th century)N. 2137 (17th/18/th century) N. 391 (18th century) N. 3465 (18th century) N. 392 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads could be dyed in Portugal
• Turmeric N. 159 (18th century) (NMS)Indicate this bedspread could not be dyed in Portugal
• Weld, and MadderN. 2137 (17th/18th century)
• Weld, and BrazilwoodN. 390 (18th century)N. 392 (18th century)Indicate that this bedspreads weredyed before 1690
RedsReds•• CochinealCochinealN. 710 (18th century)N. 710 (18th century)•• BrazilwoodN. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 (18th century)N. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 (18th century)Indicate this bedspreads could be dyed Indicate this bedspreads could be dyed in Portugal after 16th centuryin Portugal after 16th century
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Reds
16th /17th 18th
N. 112 - Lac dye Lac dye N. 1926 N. 1926 -- Lac dye, cochineal, Lac dye, cochineal,
N. 3413 N. 3413 -- MadderMadder safflower, maddersafflower, madder
N. 4575 N. 4575 –– Lac dye N. 2232 Lac dye N. 2232 -- Lac dye, cochineal,Lac dye, cochineal,N. 4581 N. 4581 –– Lac dyeLac dye safflower, maddersafflower, madder
N. 159 N. 159 -- KermesKermes
MNAA N. 2232
Results: 16Results: 16thth --1818thth Indian bedspreads in acid Indian bedspreads in acid extractionextraction
Yellows
16th /17th 18thN.112 – Weld N. 1926 – Fustic
N. 2226 - Weld N. 2232 – Fustic
N. 2237 – Madder and weld
and luteolin
N. 2281-Degradation
products
N. 3692 – Madder
and luteolin
N. 3750–Degradation
products
N. 4582 – No dye
N. 4583 - Weld
Results: Results: Indian bedspreads in acid extraction and Indian bedspreads in acid extraction and EDTA/DMF solutionEDTA/DMF solution
MNAA N. 1926
Are the Indians yellow bedspreads dyed?Are the Indians yellow bedspreads dyed?Tussah silk Bombyx mori silk
N. 2237 and N. 3692 (16th/17th century) N. 2226 and N. 4583
Dyed with madder and luteolin (18th century)
N. 2281 (17th century) Dyed with weldDegradation products indicate there was a dyeN. 4582 (17th century)No dye componentsIndicate that the yellow color was obtainedwithout dyeing, it was the color tussah silk
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Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Indians Indians bedspreads of MNAAbedspreads of MNAA and NMSand NMS
Yellows
• FusticN. 1926 (18th century)
N. 2232 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads, could be dyed in India
●TurmericN. 159 (18th century)
Indicate that this bedspreads, could be dyed in India
• WeldN. 2226 (17th century)
N. 4583 (17th/18th ?century)
The use of weld in India is not known
This bedspreads could be dyed in Portugal or in 18th century in India where the commercials changes were common
N. 3413 (16th/17th century)N. 1926 (18th century)N. 2232 (18th century)
This dyes can’t be used of attribute an origin, they were common as dyes in India and in Portugal, since antiquity
Conclusions:Conclusions:
••The identification of the materials used in the process of ancieThe identification of the materials used in the process of ancient nt Indo-Portuguese bedspread bedspread inin 16th 16th -- 18th centuries from MNAA and from 18th centuries from MNAA and from NMS allow the NMS allow the confirm of an origin:
–The identification of the fibers of the embroidery of the bedspreads allows:
-Attribute India as origin when the fibers is Tussah silk and/or cotton-Attribute unknown origin when the fibers is Bombyx mori silk
-- The identification of dyes of the embroidery of the bedspreads aThe identification of dyes of the embroidery of the bedspreads allows:llows:
-Attribute Portugal as origin if there is Weld and/or Young fustic as dyes, mentioned and ruled in a publication from 1690.-Confirm or refute the dates of the bedspreads if there is mixtures of Weld and madder or Weld and Brazilwood, mentioned and ruled in a publication from 1690.- Attribute Portugal as origin if there is Cochineal and Brazilwood as dyed,
mentioned since 16th century. - Attribute India as origin if there is Lac dye, Fustic and Turmeric as dyes, mentioned since antiquity.
MuseuMuseu NacionalNacional de Arte de Arte AntigaAntiga (M.N.A.A.):(M.N.A.A.):-- LisboaLisboa: Teresa Pacheco: Teresa Pacheco
UniversidadeUniversidade dada Beira Interior (U.B.I.): Beira Interior (U.B.I.): –– CovilhãCovilhã: Dr. Ana Lopes: Dr. Ana Lopes
InstitutoInstituto PortuguêsPortuguês de de ConservaConservaççãoão e e RestauroRestauro (I.P.C.R.):(I.P.C.R.):–– LisboaLisboa: Dr. Ana : Dr. Ana IsbelIsbel SeruyaSeruya
National Museums of Scotland: National Museums of Scotland: -- Edinburgh: Dr. Anita Edinburgh: Dr. Anita QuyeQuye