Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017 Spring Trip to NE-Spain, Rafiki Birdwatching 2017 March 31 st to April 9 th . Given: The auspicious occasion of having met one another 12 years, 6 months, 1 week and 2 days ago for the first time, in Ethiopia. Additional information: We made many trips in Ethiopia, Kenya, The Netherlands, Extremadura. Conclusion: We should visit another area. Execution: We went birding in NE- Spain, as one of us just moved over there. A trip starting on March 31 st and ending on April 9 th , giving us eight and a half days to visit several areas. The total list is given below, as well as a listing of the areas visited. Now follows a per-day description. Friday, March 31 st . Weather: Sunny most of the day, temperatures up to 15°C. Wind from NW, up to 3 Beaufort. The travel arrangements were such, that Stefan flew in from Amsterdam, after office hours, Robert took a camping-observation journey by train from Tortosa to Barcelona, seeing the chain of recreational camp-sites, holiday rental homes, permanent tents, caravan and camper sites, which now are not occupied, and are basically an eyesore. That line of plastic, polyester and canvas only to be broken by refineries at Tarragona and breaker yards near Barcelona. We met at the airport, where the rental car was made available to us. However, low-budget airlines are not known for accurate arrivals, so an extra wait of 30 minutes was taken in our strides. As a consequence, we only arrived in the Goya Park Hotel at 11PM, where a septuagenarian in-line dancing party had just taken off. The lady singer sang the right notes for some songs, but fortunately decided to stick to her contract and leave at midnight. We were forced from our table, our beers and pizzas because the light was turned out. On the third floor, the boy in the room next door, unfortunately, turned himself on. We contemplated the choice between an Albanian hitman and some free child-rearing advice, but his demanding voice slowly died down anyway. Next morning his Dad looked as bleary eyed as us, but a bit more physically developed, good choice after all. Saturday, April 1 st , no joke. Weather: Started out with rain, but later had sun, part of the day, temperatures up to 20°C. Wind from NW, up to 3 Beaufort, but we were sheltered from that wind. We dodged a couple of showers, from time to time. The main aim for today was to visit the Aiguamolls de Emporda. This is an important wetland area in NE-Spain. Though it is not a continuous area, the total size is still impressive and definitely is worth a visit. We went for the southern part between Castello d’Empuries and San Pere Pescador. An old rice growing farm has been turned into a good birding area, with plenty of hides, a threesome of concrete storage silos turned into an observation tower, and plenty to look at. First, we drive past towards the campsite, the drizzle still making us reluctant to leave the sheltered comfort of the rental car. At the car-park we hear our first Cetti’s Warbler, a constant companion for the following days. Water meant C’s warbler. It takes more effort to see them, but we managed a couple of times.
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Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
Spring Trip to NE-Spain, Rafiki Birdwatching
2017 March 31st to April 9th .
Given: The auspicious occasion of having met one another 12 years, 6 months, 1 week and 2 days ago for
the first time, in Ethiopia. Additional information: We made many trips in Ethiopia, Kenya, The
Netherlands, Extremadura. Conclusion: We should visit another area. Execution: We went birding in NE-
Spain, as one of us just moved over there.
A trip starting on March 31st and ending on April 9th, giving us eight and a half days to visit several areas.
The total list is given below, as well as a listing of the areas visited. Now follows a per-day description.
Friday, March 31st. Weather: Sunny most of the day, temperatures up to 15°C. Wind from NW, up to 3
Beaufort. The travel arrangements were such, that Stefan flew in from Amsterdam, after office hours,
Robert took a camping-observation journey by train from Tortosa to Barcelona, seeing the chain of
recreational camp-sites, holiday rental homes, permanent tents, caravan and camper sites, which now
are not occupied, and are basically an eyesore. That line of plastic, polyester and canvas only to be
broken by refineries at Tarragona and breaker yards near Barcelona. We met at the airport, where the
rental car was made available to us. However, low-budget airlines are not known for accurate arrivals, so
an extra wait of 30 minutes was taken in our strides. As a consequence, we only arrived in the Goya Park
Hotel at 11PM, where a septuagenarian in-line dancing party had just taken off. The lady singer sang the
right notes for some songs, but fortunately decided to stick to her contract and leave at midnight. We
were forced from our table, our beers and pizzas because the light was turned out. On the third floor,
the boy in the room next door, unfortunately, turned himself on. We contemplated the choice between
an Albanian hitman and some free child-rearing advice, but his demanding voice slowly died down
anyway. Next morning his Dad looked as bleary eyed as us, but a bit more physically developed, good
choice after all.
Saturday, April 1st, no joke. Weather: Started out with rain, but later had sun, part of the day,
temperatures up to 20°C. Wind from NW, up to 3 Beaufort, but we were sheltered from that wind. We
dodged a couple of showers, from time to time. The main aim for today was to visit the Aiguamolls de
Emporda. This is an important wetland area in NE-Spain. Though it is not a continuous area, the total size
is still impressive and definitely is worth a visit. We went for the southern part between Castello
d’Empuries and San Pere Pescador. An old rice growing farm has been turned into a good birding area,
with plenty of hides, a threesome of concrete storage silos turned into an observation tower, and plenty
to look at. First, we drive past towards the campsite, the drizzle still making us reluctant to leave the
sheltered comfort of the rental car. At the car-park we hear our first Cetti’s Warbler, a constant
companion for the following days. Water meant C’s warbler. It takes more effort to see them, but we
managed a couple of times.
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
Aiguamolls d'Emporda. Former rice silos with snow-capped Pyrenees in the background. Stilt in front.
Walking towards the silos one passes the first swamp. Wood Sandpiper, Snipe, Glossy Ibis and Egrets use
that to forage and rest. Barn Swallow, Sand Martin, and a small flock of Common Swift hunt for insects
over the wetland. From the top level of the observation tower we can look 360 around. The list grows.
An Osprey flies past, Marsh Harriers abound and some showers approach, but never hit us. The grassy
marsh holds more waders, Spotted and Common Redshank, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper. The anatids
are well represented: Teal, Garganey, Mallard, Gadwall, Shoveler and a couple of Greylag. The silos
themselves are good for House Sparrow. Even a Booted Eagle flies past. We descend and continue along
the paths (after the rain, these are actually shallow canals, with narrow banks offering drier footage). A
Hoopoe forages close to the path and allows good
views. Half a dozen hides offer views over other parts. A
Spanish guide reports having seen Little Crake some
minutes ago, the Japanese clients are sitting in front of
the slats and do not move, we see nothing. At another
hide we see Tufted Duck and some cleverly hidden
Night Herons. If you see these birds in the guidebook,
you think that these would stick out like a skunk in a
field of marigolds. But a Night Heron in a Tamarisk tree
can hardly be noticed, Stefan managed to find the first
one, and we spotted a few more, later, in the same
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
cluster of trees. Real hard work, birding. Each hide gave more views and better looks, the list got longer,
but the stomach also played up.
So, we went for lunch in St Pere Pescador, a village aimed more to catch the unsuspecting tourist. After
that we drove back to the main gate of the park. Since very little time was left, we did not enter, but
returned to the hotel in Roses. A thorough bit of admin gave us a nice list of 77 species for that day. We
noticed a few songbirds, but not a lot of species that one normally finds in reeds during the breeding
season (e.g. Reed Warbler, Nightingale). Dinner along the boulevard, few restaurants were open, but the
food was quite good and the celebratory drinks were well earned. The boy next door was only a little bit
less vocal, still, we slept reasonably well.
Sunday, April 2nd. Weather: Started out with sun, just a few clouds anyhow over most parts of the day,
temperatures up to 20°C. Wind from NW, up to 6 Beaufort, where we went, we were not sheltered from
that wind. Cap Creus is a promontory, formed by the submerging eastern end of the Pyrenees. It is a
unreal landscape of cragged rocks with sparse vegetation. Not easy on feet under normal circumstances,
but in a howling gale, one gets easily blown out of equilibrium, with dire results. Keeping one’s
binoculars steady, let alone a telescope, under these conditions was a nightmare. Taking the wrong path
did not help either, so after a while we decided that going to the restaurant next to the lighthouse was
the better option. A wee bit of lee, next to the concrete lighthouse, gave us the chance to tick Yellow-
legged Gull and Shag. The coffee in the restaurant was a godsent, strong, black and very tasty. On the
way back we reached shelter from the wind on the southern side of the ridge, much more to our liking.
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
The road from Cadaques to Roses is a raceway to some drivers, and one is apt to become a hindrance in
their quest for glory. Stopping is only allowed on few spots, cyclists in suicidal moods and octogenarians
in electrified wheelchairs make for a complete obstacle run, until
the road reaches the plain again. A sense of normality returned.
Then the Aiguamolls d’Emporda was on the menu again. This time
we entered at the Information Centre, north entrance. Quite busy
with visitors and their parked vehicles. Still, the Storks did not
mind, we walked some two kilometers to the silos again. A Monk
Parakeet was seen entering a nest in the top of a high voltage
post. Hoopoe again, and a good selection of waterfowl from out
of a hide. The marshes hold numbers of tortoises, clusters of
several individuals were seen. We visited the Little Crake hut
again, but with a very strong wind in our faces, were not able to
remain there for long. On the way back to the parking it was more
quiet, we saw Yellow Wagtail in numbers. We opted to lunch
again in St Pere. Unfortunately, Stefan chose a local specialty,
stuffed cuttlefish, that was indeed a collection of small decapods,
stuffed, but with mashed beef and gravy, not rice. He barely
finished the dish, something to be righted later that day. After lunch we went to an area just south of
Empuriabrava. A road leading to a campsite passes a water treatment plant and opposite is a hide,
looking out over marshy ponds. More ducks for the day list. Very few songbirds had arrived at that time,
probably in a few weeks it will be teeming with them here, prime area for Acrocephalus, Hippolais and
Locustella.
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
Continuing on our avian quest, we went back to the main road, passing over a ford to cross the Muga
river. The area we aimed at was Vilaut, north of the Roses to Figueres road: reached through Castello
d’Empuries, you follow the GI-V-6103, which leads you through the Estanys. At one point, where the
road reaches rocks on your left, under a power cable and starts climbing a bit, there is a sign, on your
left, leading to Vilaut, by a small narrow footpath. It proved better to have continued some distance,
park at the Restaurant and walk back on the road. Anyhow, we parked on not the best spot, we took the
red path on the map below and went back the yellow way. Wellington boots would have been nice, as
Main area of Aiguamolls. Northern entrance next to Equestrian Centre, southern entrance leading to Camping Nautic. Rectangles indicate huts/hides. P = parking
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
the recent rains had resulted in some small streams in the fields. Robert was found not to be a good long
distance jumper. The hide was occupied by a birdwatcher with a friendly Irish Setter, not a hunter. The
man volunteered that he had seen Little Crake the day before, lucky blighter. We saw Teal, Garganey,
Shoveler, Pintail over there, no crake. The hide is probably best early in the day as the light is then
behind one. A bit less wind would have been nice too. Getting back to the car led us past a farm with
Water Buffalo, (We bought some of their blue cheese later in the Cretas mediaeval festival, it proved to
be really strong and tasteful). Upon reaching the road, there is a ruin of an old shed (almacen) opposite
the road just walked. A Sardinian Warbler drew our attention, as well as several Greenfinches, Spotless
Starlings and Serins. From there we drove higher up into the Serra de Rodes, basically the but one last
part of the Pyrenees, before Cap Creus. This road is numbered GI-P-6041. There is a monastery (St. Pere
de Rodes) there, with two turnoffs, where we were exposed to the wind again. But it gave us Mistle
Thrush and Rock Bunting, all observations were short, as if the birds were blown into the bushes. We
may have missed Blue Rockthrush, because of such weather. The drive continued, via La Selva de Mar
and then south again towards a well-earned dinner on the boulevard. With a sunset belying the
tumultuous weather today, we enjoyed some seafood in one of the few restaurants open this season.
On this day the pattern emerged: We could almost pre-tick: Feral Dove, Zitting Cisticola, Goldfinch, Serin,
Cetti’s Warbler, Yellow-legged Gull. Still we had to actually see them, and with Feral Dove, there is
always the discussion / dispute / uncertainty of species status. We have decided to lump it with Rock
Pigeon.
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
The boy stayed quiet this night, but he was replaced by a junior team of KV Mechelen, a Belgian football
club. The national team is dubbed Red Devils, these were the adolescent devils. After one o’clock it
quieted down.
Monday April 3rd . Warmer weather, less wind. Sunny. The next morning we did not even smile at the
Belgian culprits. We left the hotel and headed for Aiguamolls again, a short visit to the southern end to
try for Little Crake. Less wind, but still not comfortable. Markedly fewer people meant more relaxed
viewing. A flock of 8 Glossy Ibis foraged nearby, Hoopoe was not frightened, we heard Green
Woodpecker. The Crake declined to reward our attention. On, on to the south, via Torroella de Montgri.
At first the area is still saltmarsh, but later we pass through more elevated areas. Near Torroella one of
the hills is adorned with a castle, and in the valley close by is an old Monastery. It is quiet here, also only
a few birds show. Goldfinch, of course. On the way out of the valley we scan the rocks and find Blue
Rockthrush. One bird sits nicely on top of the crags, archetypal. Going on, an early Cuckoo flies past
hurriedly. We continue parallel to the Ter river and make a short stop at Colomer, near a riverine Poplar
forest that looks good for Golden Oriole, but it proves quiet. A lone Little Egret gets added to the days’
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
list. Lunch in Medinya at a roadside café, and then on the AP-7, toll road past Barcelona and Tarragona,
to exit at Reus. At 16.00 PM we arrived at home: Casa Abellerol in Arens de Lledo.
Tuesday April 4th. Nice weather, temperature up to 20°C. As the village is in a valley the wind is not very
strong, and following the valley contours. A quiet day to recharge our mental batteries. We follow the
valley for some kilometers, visit our bee-stand, check on the crop and tick the usual species. Wheatear,
Chaffinch and Crested Tit are added to the list.
Wednesday April 5th. Temperature rising to 20+ °C . Little wind, even out almost at sea. Fully recharged
we head for the Ebro-delta, southern section. The drive is past Horta de San Juan, through the Els Ports
mountain range to Xerta and then via Tortosa and Amposta into the delta. That route goes past
hundreds of old dilapidated sheds, some no more than three or four walls, other still with remnants of
roofs or even completely intact. Each needs to be checked for Little Owl, and finally we see them. But
travelling at 80 kliks an hour requires careful stopping, returning and parking at a safe spot. The emblems
of wisdom are still there. Two of them, one sitting next to a chimney, and the one that drew our
attention sitting on a corner. Good start of the day. Once in the delta, it becomes immediately apparent
that everything is dry. No rice paddies are submerged yet. The concrete canals are dry and the birds
absent: No waders, herons, gulls or terns to speak of. The local road to San Carles de Rapita (A, on map
below) is normally good for these species, taking sometimes over an hour to check on many spots.
Parking is safe on the verge. But less than ten minutes later we are at the turnoff to Poble Nou.
Waterhen and Black-headed Gull next to the marina, but the real birding starts a bit further down that
road. At the mollusk and fisheries research centre (B) we spot the first Purple Heron, Pratincoles are
absent here. On to Tancada, past Poble Nou, where
two viewpoints offer good looks over the water. At
(C): Marsh Harrier, Red Crested Pochard, a calling
Rail, Little Grebe, Squacco Heron, Egrets and
Flamingo, the latter in quite big numbers (100+).
We find Black-necked Grebe and Great Crested. All
from the first viewpoint, and we continue towards
the second one, near the Bat-box, a cubic meter
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
wooden box, said to sometimes hold 50.000 bats. (D). We spent some time scanning for Little Bittern,
but we might be too early. A Purple Gallinule is in view for a short time. More Little Grebes, and the
usual non-suspect Cetti’s Warbler. Then further on
to the Information Centre. In September there will
be an equivalent to the Rutland Bird Fair here. We
spend a lot of time here looking at the different
waders: The best find is a Temminck’s Sandpiper
(Picture right). But Ruff, Kentish Plover, Common
Sandpiper and the “Shanks” are present as well.
Grey Plover, a big bird loses to Black-necked Stilt,
which has longer legs. At the Information Centre is
an annex that has 6 telescopes available outdoor
to the public, a service never encountered before.
To reach there, a lift is available, but we, young at
heart, manage to climb the stairs. Common-, Gull-billed- and Sandwich Tern, Audouins’s Gull (picture
left by Els Luycks), Lesser Black-backed- and Yellow-legged Gull grace the skies. Later we check the
pumping house at (F), sometimes the canal leading to it has less water and the mudbanks are then
attractive to waders. We now see none of that, but Crested Lark, and Willow Warbler are in the
vegetation next to the building. Lunch in Eucaliptus.
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
After lunch we try to find a way into Illa de Buda. At the very end of the Ebro river. Driving all the way to
Els Muntells considered too long off, we take
the beach route (G). The sand and clay
substrate has the right consistency now, but
do not try this at home/after recent rains or a
long dry spell. For us it proves to be great.
Both Red-backed- and Woodchat Shrike. And
a stunning Subalpine Warbler, male with all
the trimmings. A beauty. Female is there as
well, but she is less glorious. We go as far as
road conditions allowed, the Bassa de
Alfacada on our left. The sea is almost void of
birds, just some distant gulls. Now having
checked on Google-Earth and StreetView, we
should have been able to get as far as Illa de
Buda, but via Els Muntells and a rather circuitous road along the Ebro river. Option for next year, new
sites to explore. We go back over the beach and stop at Riet Vell, (H). It is a reserve where they try to
grow rice without the use of pesticides, a small lagoon with a good hide next to it. It, kind of, does Tafkap
proud. We count over twenty Purple Gallinules (left) under a blue rainless sky. A female Pintail swims in
between the clumps of sedges and Juncus. The number of Stilts is overwhelming. The drive back takes
us to Arens in little over an hour.
Guided by : Rafiki Spring Trip to NE-Spain, 2017
Thursday April 6th. Warm weather again, and a day spent near Arens de Lledo. One nice addition to the
list is a calling Bonelli’s Eagle. These rare raptors breed in the valley, on a friend’s property. In size they
are overwhelmed by Griffon Vulture, but nevertheless the latter are attacked if they soar too close to the
Bonelli’s nest. Red-rumped Swallows swerve over the valley and a Golden Oriole calls. This is the true
harbinger of summer, maybe only second to Beeeater.
Friday April 7th. Another intense day. We drive the following route: Calaceite, Alcañiz, Pueblo de Hijar,
Albalate del Arzobispo, lunch in Lécera, Belchite, Codo, Quito, and back via Hijar. We dub this the “dry
day”, as we travel into the steppes and semi-desert. But shortly after Alcañiz there is a lake to be visited
first. A flock of Red-crested Pochard, a Stork and Greenshank add “wet” species to the list. On the nearby
Motorland racing circuit loud noise indicates racing practice. But on the lake this does not worry the
birds: With seven species it is the second best day for anatids. Stilts, of course, and Little Ringed Plover
do not add to a desert feel on the list. So we travel on, the small woods around the lake hold Mistle
Thrush, and on the ploughed fields are Kestrel and Crested Lark. Just after Hijar we turn left to Albalate
and on to the Lécera road. After about 7 kilometers there is a cluster of deserted farms on your right,
and an industrial building far on the left. Some time ago we checked the farms and found them teeming
with rabbits. Now we went into the area to the left, SW of the road. Bingo, larks, wheatears and pipits! In