Garment Spreading andits EquipmentsSewn Products Machinery and
EquipmentsSubmitted by -Charu Bhatia (MUM13AP30)Harsh Kumar Tomar
(MUM13AP34)shita Pat!ai" (MUM13AP3#)$a!aa Kha!de%&a%a
(MUM13AP)Ma!ish Si!'h (MUM13AP##)B()(Te*h - + Sem(S,readi!' - a!
.$er$ie&An insight into the principles, working and mechanism
of the process ofspreading, and the machines pertaining to
it.Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a
spreading table of garments, cutting table, or specially designed
surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or lay-up
is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single session of
cutting. A single lot of spreading may consist of a single or
multiple plies. he height of a lay!up or spreading is limited by
fabric characteristics si"e of the order to be cut, cutting method,
and the #ertical capacity of the spreader. he number of plies in a
spread may range from $ to %&&..b/e*ti$es o0 the S,readi!'
Pro*esso place a number of plies of fabric under the marker
according to the planning process, in the colour required,
correctly aligned with respect to therequisite length and width 'at
the correct tension(.Basi* S,readi!' 12ui,me!t 0or 3arme!t
Cutti!'he following are the paraphernalia in#ol#ed in the process
of spreading) Spreading surfaces Spreading machines *abric control
de#ices during spreading, and *abric cutting de#icesSe#eral +rms
operate producti#ely with manually operated equipment, while
large!scale +rms +nd automated, high!tech equipment to be
cost!e,ecti#e for their operations. Ty,es o0 )abri* S,readhe spread
can be of two basic types) )%at s,read! All the plies are of the
same length. Ste,,ed s,read! this as the name suggests, is built up
in steps, with all the plies in one step ha#ing the same length. A
stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut
precludes the use of a -atspread. he cut order plan details the
colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed. Modes
.0 S,readi!'.pen *abric, *ace .ne /ay, 0ap .ne /ay '*1.1/,
01.1/(Spreading Mode2 .pen *abric, *ace .ne /ay, 0ap 3P and 4own
'*1.1/,01314(Spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric is
cut at the far end, rotated $5& degrees, then spread to the
beginning. he *abric is cut and rotated $5& degrees then the
process is repeated.Spreading Mode2 .pen *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap
.ne /ay '*1*, 01.1/(Spreading starts at one end of the table.
*abric is cut at the far end, the rollis brought to the beginning
of the table, rotated $5& degrees, then spread tothe far end
again. he *abric is cut at the far end, brought back to
thebeginning of the table, rotated $5& degrees then the process
is repeated.Spreading Mode2 .pen *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap 3p and
4own '*1*, 01314(Spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric
is folded o#er at the far end, then spreading continues back to the
beginning of the table. he *abric is folded o#er then the process
is repeated.Spreading Mode2 *olded *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap .ne
/ay '*1*, 01.1/(*olded fabric spreading starts at one end of the
table. *abric is cut at the farend, then returned to the beginning.
hen the process is repeated. .n thecontrol side of the table the
*old is superimposed one layer on the pre#iouslayer.his process is
also used on tubular rolled fabric.Spreading Mode2 *olded *abric,
*ace to *ace, 0ap 3p and 4own '*1*, 01314(Spreading starts at one
end of the table. *abric is spread to the far end of thetable. he
fabric is folded o#er, then spread back to the beginning. he
fabricis folded o#er, then the process is repeated. .n the control
side of the tablethe *old is superimposed one layer on the pre#ious
layer. his process is alsoused on tubular rolled fabric.S,readi!'
Parametershe following need to be kept in mind when laying a spread
for cutting) Alignment of plies in both length and width direction!
length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length
and width. Elimination of fabric defects1-aws! any faults identi+ed
on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be a#oided. 6orrect
ply direction 'especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics(! all
faces up, all faces down, face to face etc. 6orrect ply tension!
ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible. A#oidance
of distortion in the spread during cutting! polythene sheets are
used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with
the base plate of the knife. *abrics must be -at and free from any
crinkle 7 crease! these cause defect in garments due to #ariation
in dimension. 6hecks and stripes should be matched. S,readi!'
Sur0a*eshe appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by
the fabric type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting
equipment, and the +rm8s quality standards. Spreading requires a
-at, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting
surface, it also must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done
on the same surface, but automated cutting often requires spreading
and cutting to be done in ad9acent but separate locations.Spreading
and cutting surfaces are a#ailable in standard widths that
correspond to fabric width. 0arrow fabric can be spread on a wider
table. A spreading surface needs to be about $& inches wider
than the fabric. Spreading tables may ha#e tracks or rails placed
along one or both sides of atabletop or 9ust a few inches o, the
-oor. his track helps guide and control the spreader as it mo#es up
and down the length of the table. /ith some types of equipment, the
table tracks are geared to synchroni"e the mo#ement of the
spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in order to regulate the
tension.Spreading tables may also be #ery speciali"ed for certain
types of fabric and cutting equipment. Pin tables ha#e rows of pins
located below the surface that can be e:tended through slats to
hold fabric in a precise location for accurate matching of pattern
repeats. Vacuum tables are used to compress lay!up and pre#ent
shifting or mo#ement during cutting. A spread is co#ered with a
plastic +lm that forms a seal o#er the lay!up when #acuum is
created. A lay!up of quilted fabric can be compressed as much as
;< percent when the #acuum is created. his allows more plies in
the lay!up and restricts the mo#ement of slippery fabrics for more
accurate cutting. 6utting equipment may be mo#ed to a lay!up as
another lay!up is prepared further down the table, or fabric can be
spread on one surface and then transferred to the cutting
surface.Air fotation tables, when acti#ated, allow easy mo#ement of
a lay!up onto an ad9acent cutting area. A layer of air between the
table surface and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and
allows a lay!up to be mo#ed easily without putting stress on the
fabric or the operators. Spreading tables with con#eyori"ed
surfaces carry the fabric to the cutting machine so that no time is
wasted. =deally, one lay!up can be cut while is being spread.
6on#eyors may be used with computeri"ed cutting systems, large die
presses, and laser cutters. =t can support upto