Spreading and Cutting Requirements

8/16/2019 Spreading and Cutting Requirements

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1I M.Ed (TVET-GT) Prod. Engg.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39889719@N08/4254214139/http://www.flickr.com/photos/39889719@N08/4254214139/


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CuttingCutting

Manual

Scissors

Machine

Portable cutting

knives

Straight

knife

Roundknife

Stationary

cutters

Band knife

Die cutting

Servo

cutting

Plasmacutting

Water jetcutting

Laser

cutting

Position

markers

Notchers

Drills and

thread

markers



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Cutting

Scissors



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Straight knife

Power system

Cutting blade

Blade guard

Handle

Up and down movement

Sharpening

Base plateRound knife

One way thrust as the circular

blade makes contact with the

fabric

Cutting

Portable cutting knives



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Vertical blade

Reciprocates up and down

Corners and curves can be cut

accurately

Most versatile and commonly used

Blades length - 6 to 14 inches

Spread depth depends on blade length

&

adjustable height of the blade guard

All of the pieces cut from a lay are

identical

Cutting Portable cutting knives

Popular, light and fast.

Suitable only for cutting in straight lines

or very gradual curves, in depths of

about 15cm

Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or

bulky material, or lower lays of harder

material such as shirts

Small blade cuts single layer

A round blade contacts the spread at

an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before

the bottom ply

Straight knife Round knife



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CuttingStationary cutters: Band knife

Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band

Fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade

Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers

Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage

Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm

Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut

precisely

Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or for

shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks 8I M.Ed (TVET-GT) Prod. Engg.


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Cutting

Dies are pre – shaped metal outlines

Most accurate

Die cutting operation involves

Placement of fabric

Positioning the die on the fabric

Engaging the machine to press the die

into the fabric

Used mainly for leather, coated and

laminated materials Areas where the same patterns are used

over a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps

Stationary cutters: Die cutting



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Cutting

Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature

ionized gas (argon)

Faster cutter of single plies

High engineering and cost issues

Problems – same as for laser cutting

Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high

temperature ionized gas (argon)

Faster cutter of single plies

High engineering and cost issues

Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting



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Cutting

Very high velocity, fine stream of water

High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on

impact

As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the

momentum decreases and cutting

ability is reducedfrayed edges

Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality

Leather, plastic, vinyl

High equipment costs

Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting



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Cutting

Notches can be cut by straight knife too

but accuracy is required

Specialized notching equipment provides

greater accuracy because a guide lines up

the notcher with the cut edge

Hot notcher consists of a heating element

(blade) that slightly scorches the fibers

adjacent

to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)

Two types of notches:

Straight notch and V-notch

Position markers: Notchers



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Cutting

Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and

spirit level

Used for reference markers needed away from the edge

of a garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.

A hole is drilled through the lay

Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the

sewing perator comes to use it

Loose weave – hot drill is used which slightly scorches or

fuse the edges of the hole

Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill – leaves small deposit of paint on each ply of

fabric

ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the

garment

Position markers: Drills and thread markers



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Preparationfor sewing

Ticketing Bundles



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Ticketing

Tickets carry details :

style no, size, ply no,

bundle no., date issued

Operations may be

incorporated for payment

purposes, control of work

and facilitating quality

control

Preparation for sewing



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Preparation for sewing

Bundling

Small batches of garments move from one work station to another

in a

controlled way

Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.

If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done

Order no. 6015

Bundle no. 1430

Quantity 12

Style no. 3145

Size 12

Section collar

Bundle ticket consists of :



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Requirements of Spreading and

Cutting

19I M.ED(GT)-Product Engg.


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Spreading

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and

consists of laying plies of one cloth on top of the

other in a predetermined direction and

relationship between the right and wrong sides of

the cloth. The composition of each spread, i.e.

the number of plies of each colour is obtained

from the cut order plan.



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Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine,

2. Volume of production,

3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery) and

4. Thickness of fabric.



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• Spreading fabric for cutting may be done in a

variety of ways. These spreading modesdescribe the way in which the face of the

fabric will be oriented, and what the nap

direction is from ply to ply. The choice of

spreading mode will affect the cost of

spreading and the quality of the finished

product (the result of the cutting).



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Spreading quality is achieved when any flaws in the

face of the fabric can be identified by the spreader

(even if the fabric was pre-inspected), and removed

(either during the process of spreading or marked

for removal after spreading).

The highest levels of spreading quality are, therefore,

achieved with spreading modes that permit the faceof the fabric to be ‘up’ and visible to the spreader at

all times.



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The spreads can be of two basic types:

1. Flat spreads—all plies are of the same length.

2. Stepped spreads—this as the name suggests, is built

up in steps, with all the plies in one step having the

same length. A stepped spread is generally used

when the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a

flat spread. The cut order plan details the colours

and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.

I M.ED(GT)-Product Engg. 24


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1. Alignment of fabric plies: Every ply should comprise at least width of

the marker plan, but should have the minimum possible extra outside

those measurements. The textile materials vary in width. The marker

plan is made of fit the narrowest width. In accuracy in this alignment,

it could mean that plies do not cover the whole area of the marker plan

and parts of some pattern pieces would be missing when cut.

2.Correct ply tension: The ply tension should be correct. If the tension

is low then there will be ridges in the plies and if the tension is too high

then the fabric may shrink after cutting and sewing. The use of

spreading machine gives uniform tension.



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3. Fabric must be flat: The fabric laid on the table should be flat otherwise, there

will be ridges in it.

4. Elimination of fabric faults: Fabric faults (holes, stains, etc.) may be identified by

the fabric supplier and additional faults may be detected during examination of

fabric by the garment manufacturer prior to spreading. The spreader cuts

across the ply at the position of the fault and pulls back the cut end to overlap

as far back on the next splice mark. Splice marks are marked on the edge of the

spreading table prior to spreading, by reference to the marker and ensure that

whenever a splice is created the overlap of fabric is sufficient to allow complete

garment parts rather than sections only to be cut. Computerized methods of

achieving this are now available which provide a display of the marker plan on a

computer screen on the spreading machine.



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5.Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability: These two factors

must be considered together. They depend on fabric type, pattern

shape and the spreading equipment that is available. When the

pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the

marker plan, it is essential that the fabric is spread in a way that

maintains that direction. It could be because of the effects of a

surface design or fabric construction, problems of instability with a

nap or a pile surface. This can require that some fabrics are spread

with all the plies face. Symmetrical pattern pieces are placed all the

same way up or face to face. If the pattern pieces are asymmetrical all

the pieces face up or face down.I M.ED(GT)-Product Engg. 27


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6.Elimination of static electricity: In spreading plies of fabric

containing man-made fibres, friction may increase the charge of

static electricity in the fabric. Friction may be reduced by

changing the method of threading the fabric through the guide

bars of the spreading machine.

Humidity in the atmosphere of the cutting room may also be

increased, thus allowing the static electric to discharge

continuously through the atmosphere. In some case it may be

necessary to earth the lay.



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7.Avoidance of fusion of plies: In case of

thermoplastic fibre fabrics, they may fuse

together during cutting if the cutting knife

becomes hot.

We can prevent fabric from fusion by:

(a) Using anti-fusion paper,

(b) Using silicon lubricants on the knife blade,

(c) Reducing ply height.



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8.Avoidance of distortion in spread: There should not be friction

between the bottom of the spread and the surface of the table. So a

layer of hard polyethylene sheet is laid at the bottom of the spread.

9. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles: Identification marks are

used into plies due to colour or shade variation of fabric or other cases.

For this separation, low valued coloured paper is used to plies.

10. Matching checks or stripes: If the fabric is checked or striped then

it must be laid to the marker plan and they should be matched by

the help of needle.



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Cutting

To fabric cut out pattern pieces of garment

components as per exact dimension of the

patterns from a fabric lay is called fabric cutting.

It is totally different from general cutting in which

exact dimension is not taken into account. The

term fabric cutting is only applicable for garments

manufacturing technology.



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1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be

done accurately as per exact dimension of the

pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting

depends on methods of cutting and marker

planning. If manual cutting method is used, then

cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill

of operator, and attentiveness of operator.

Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have

their self cutting accuracy.



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2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting

method used for fabric lay cutting, it should

be ensured that the shape of the cut

components from top to bottom lay are of

exact size and shape, otherwise the garments

produced will be defective.



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3. Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the

fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the

temperature may be up to 300°C. If the fabric contains synthetic

fibres, e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused

edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres

melt at around 250°C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric

will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after

cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation

during use of garments.



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To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following

steps may be taken:

(i) Reduce the height of the lay,

(ii) Reduce the cutting speed,

(iii) Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval,

(iv) Lubricate the knife during cutting.

4. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends

on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be

capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the

plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.



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Notcher

• Many garment parts require that notches are cut in to the edges of

them to enable alignment during sewing with other garment parts.

• The some of the cutting methods (band knife, round knife, straight

knife, hand cutting) can be used to produce the notches, but accuracy

depends upon the operator. Specialized notching equipment provides

greater accuracy because a guide lines up the notcher with the cut

edge to give consistent depth of notch at a consistent right angle to

the edge.



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Cloth drills: Drill marks, which are round holes, are placed in cut

components to show the ends of darts and the placement points of

added components like patch pockets or flaps (Figure 1.58). These marks

must be drilled so that after the darts are sewn, the marks remain in the

material sewn into the dart. Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains

visible until the sewing operator comes to use it.

When the marks are needed away from the edges of the garment, a hole is

drilled through all the plies in the lay. For example, pocket position in

centre of the body or dart position. The drills may be made in fabric

spreads of up to 300 mm in height.


h d k


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Thread marker

• Thread marker is used in the cutting lays as a short term marking,

whenever the long-term marking is not desired because of quality

reasons. • The machine uses a needle and a thread. The thread is

pulled through the material in all the layers of the spread. When the

components are cut into parts the thread goes with all the parts and

which allows the operator to determine where to place pleats, darts,

buttons or pockets.

• It can be also used for bundling cut pieces also in times, which ensures

matched pairs by eliminating loose cut patterns of varying sizes.



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Thank You Very Much

I M ED(GT) P d t E 39

Spreading and Cutting Requirements

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