Spice Kitchen

CONTENTS

TitlePage

StoriesofFlavour&Spice

Spices

Basics

Starters&smallbites

Vegetables&pulses

Seafood

Poultry

Meat

Sidedishes

Accompaniments

DessertsCopyrightPage

STORIESOFFLAVOUR&SPICE

Indianfoodisvibrant,colourfulandrichlyflavoured;describedbysomeasbothGod-likeinitspurity,yet devilishly sly as its spices lie in wait for unsuspecting palates. Its cuisine has diversified andstrengthenedthroughouthistorybyall thosewhohavecomeintocontactwithit:TheAncientGreeksbroughtlambandtheartofcheese-making,theearlyMughalscamelookingforland,victory,melonsandgrapes,yetintroducedkorma,biryaniandthetandoor.Theirdescendants,withapenchantforlavishbanquets,embracedIndia’sspices,setuphugekitchenbrigades,andhelpeddevelopthefoundationsofclassicalIndiancuisine.Underroyalpatronage,chefsexperimentedwithdifferentflavoursandcookingstyles, transforming ingredients to keep their masters’ interest. With the coming of the Portuguese,Indian food gained complexity and heat – chillies, tomatoes and cashew nuts were all added to theIndianfoodrepertoire.ThearrivaloftheBritishEmpireinfluencedIndiancuisinenotwithingredients,butratherwithnewcookingtechniquesfromEnglishandFrenchrecipes.

Today, Indian food is truly global, influencing and being influenced by far-reaching corners of theworld.Rusticmeals,finedining,streetfoodsandregionalspecialtiesareallincorporatedtomakeitoneofthemostexcitingcuisinesavailable.

Myearliestfoodmemoriesareofthefamilylunchtable,specificallyatmygrandparents’home,whereplates of kababs, curries, sweet seasonal vegetables, crunchy salads, crumbly breads, beautiful ricedishes,perkyaachars(pickles)andchutneys,softenedbyvelvetyraitaswereconsumed,whilemothersand fathers, aunts anduncles compared their favourite recipes and tips formaking thebest parathas.Everyonehadtheirownlittlestorytotell,whileuskidsjust triedtosneakinonemoregulabjamun,hopingnoonewaswatching.Theserecipeswerehandeddownthroughtheyears,foreveradaptingwitheachnewgeneration.

I believe I amvery fortunate to have been brought up in an environment that not only explored theregionaltastesofmyownneighbourhood,butthoseoftheentirecountry.Myimmediatefamilylovedto travel, and each holidaywas spent in a different part of Indiawhere Iwas encouraged to sampleunique foodsand regional specialties.Asa result,mycookinghas alwaysbeen influencedbymulti-regional flavours,manyofwhichIhavefine-tuned inmyrestaurant,and theresultingrecipescanbeseeninthisbook.OverthelasttwentyyearsattheSpiceKitchen,manyofthemoretraditionalrecipeshavegainedstarstatusbycombiningflavoursofthenorth,south,eastandwesttoproduceinnovative,multi-layered dishes that complement each other. You too can make up your ownmenu by pairingrecipes from the various chapters in this book. Do not be constrained by regions and tradition, butinsteadbeguidedbytheflavoursandvarietyofdishesavailable.

IsIndianfooddifficulttocook?Notatall–itisjustamatteroflearningtherulesbeforebreakingthem!The recipes presented here are authentic and easy; some have an interesting twist, and all can bepreparedwithreadilyavailableingredients.

To really enjoy your Indianmeal, aim for a balance ofmeat and vegetable dishes, rich and simple,cookedandraw,hotandcold;accompaniedbyrice,bread,salad,chutneysandpickles.Alternatively,takeadvantageofthevastarrayofvegetariandishesonoffer–oneofthemostdistinctiveelementsofIndiancuisineisthepredominanceandimportanceofvegetarianfood.

AnIndiankitchenisafragrantkitchen.Thearomaofspicespermeateseverypartofthebodyandsoul,nourishingandsatisfying thepalate.Spicesandherbsare thefoundationblocksofall Indiancuisine,and are certainly not restricted to traditional curries. In Indian hands, roasts are redolent of ginger,onion, bay leaf, cardamom, black peppercorns and mustard, while a simple fried fish might bemarinatedwithfreshcoriander,chilli,garlic,ajwaiinseedsandmace.Aswithallgoodrecipes,balanceisthekey.Nothingillustratesthe‘lessismore’maximbetterthantheuseofspices.Usedindividually,or inharmoniousblends, spicesbringperfection to anynumberof Indiandishes.On theotherhand,thereisnothingasterribleasaclumsilyspiceddishwithwarringelementsofsweetandbitter,orjustmuddiedflavours.Thecarefulblendingofdifferentspicequantitiesisalwaysrequiredtosuccessfullyachievethosefewmasterdishesthatuseuptothirty-sixspices.

Alwaysstartoffwithwholespices–seeds,fruitorbark.Theyhavemuchmoreflavourthanpowderedvarieties. Dry-roast or heat whole spices before grinding using amortar and pestle or electric spicegrinder to release theirmaximum flavour and taste. Stay away frommass-produced pre-mixed currypowders and pastes; apart from everything tasting the same, youwill never be able to duplicate thefreshness and intensity achievedwith freshlyblended spiceswhere subtlety shines throughalongsidebolder,morevibranttastes.

Don’t be afraid to try unfamiliar spices to get to know their distinctive flavours. For vegetables ordelicatelyflavouredingredients,useonlyoneortwospicestobringoutthetaste,suchasonionseedsandchilliwithcauliflower,ormustardseedswithfish.Experimentwithdifferentcombinations–yourimaginationandtastebudswilldotherest.

SPICES

Here is a guide to twenty of the most important spices used in Indiancooking.

AjwaiinSeeds:These tinygrey seeds come from the same family as cuminandparsley. In taste, theyare similar toceleryseedswithovertonesofthyme.InIndiancooking,theyareusedtoflavourdeep-friedfoods,fishandvegetables.Tryajwaiinseedsstir-friedwithgarlic,prawns(shrimp)tomatoes,coriander(cilantro)leavesandchilli.

Allspice:ThisberrycomesfromthePimentadioica,asmalltreenativetotheWestIndies.Thefruitisgatheredwhengreenandunripeanddried in thesun,where theberries turnblack.Allspicehas theflavourofcloves,cinnamonandnutmeg.ItisalsoknownasJamaicapepper,andinIndiaaskababchini.

Amchur:Greenmangoesaredriedandground toobtain this sour tangy spice,used to lift the tasteofpopularsnackssuchassamosasandpakoras.Amchurisespeciallyusefulifyouwanttoachieveasourtastelikelemonortamarindwithouttheliquidcontent.

Asafoetida:Averysharp-tastingspicederivedfromaresinousgumofthefennelfamily,asafoetidaisusedsparinglyinvegetariandishesandwithlentils.NorthIndianrecipes,especiallyfromKashmir,includeasafoetidabutalwaysinveryminuteamounts.Thegumissaidtoaiddigestionandgivesauniquetaste,whichyoumayeitherloveorhate.Itsaromaaftercookinghasbeencomparedwiththatoftruffles.Forasimplerecipe,addatinyamounttohotgheewithjuliennedgingerandfreshgreenpeas.

Cardamom:AlsoknownastheQueenofSpices,cardamomisthefruitofareed-likeplantfromthemountainsnearthe Malabar Coast in India. Two types are commonly used in Indian cooking: the small and moredelicategreencardamompodswiththinblackseedsinside,andthelargebrowncardamompods,whichareatleastfourtimesthesizeofthegreen.Thepodsreleaseabeautifulfragrancewhencrushedandtheseeds have a strong, sweetish flavour. Cardamom is an essential ingredient of garammasala, and isoftenusedtoflavoursweetdishessuchascustards,icecreamsandricepuddings.

Chillies:InIndiancookingchilliesaregenerallyfreshgreen(unripe),driedredorgroundasredchillipowder.Thethreecannotbeinterchangedinrecipesastheyallhavedifferentflavours.Freshchilliesalsovaryinpungency.Agoodguideisoftenthesize:thesmallerthechillithehotteritis.

Cinnamon:Cinnamonisthebarkofanevergreentreebelongingtothelaurelfamily,nativetoSriLanka,theIndiansubcontinent,MalaysiaandIndonesia.Theouterbarkisstrippedaway,andtheinnerbarkisloosenedand dried. Often confused with cassia bark, true cinnamon is softer and has a more subtle aroma.Cinnamonleavesareusedtoflavourcurries,stocksandrice.

Cloves:Oneoftheoldest-knownspices,cloveswereregularlyusedbytheAncientEgyptiansandtheRomans.Theclove(myrtle) treecangrowtoheightsofsixmetresand itsunopenedflowerbudsarecarefullyharvested. Known for its preservation qualities, cloves are used in both savoury and sweet Indiandishes.

Coriander:ThesmallroundorovalbrownseedsofthecorianderplantareoneofthemostpopularlyusedspicesinIndiancooking.Theseedsareusuallyroastedandgroundbeforeuse.Freshcoriander(cilantro)leavesareusedforflavouringcurries,salads,chutneysandasagarnish.

Cumin:Usedeitherwholeorasapowder,cuminiswidelygrowninEurope,IndiaandMexico.Cuminissaidtostimulatetheappetiteandaiddigestion.Itisfrequentlyusedincurries,biscuits,couscousandfriedrice.Frywholecuminseedsingheeandaddtocookedvegetables,lentilsandrice.

FennelSeeds:Thedriedfruitofaperennialherboftheparsleyfamily,fennelisgrowninEurope,India,theMiddleEastandArgentina.Theseedresemblescumininshapebutisgreenandslightlyfatterwithalicorice-likeflavour.Fennelisusedwholeandgroundinbreads,pickles,sauces,andinfishandSouthIndianmeatcurries.ItisalsoaningredientoftheIndianfive-spicemix,panchphoron.Cookricewithfennelseedsandwheyforareallyaromaticdish.GarnishwithIndianpanircheese.

Fenugreek:These squarish, yellowish-brown seeds have a slightly bitter flavour. They are used either whole orground to flavour vegetables and curries.The leaves are used as a vegetable, anddried fenugreek isessentialforcertainrecipessuchasbutterchicken.Addafewseedstosoupstocksor,withcurryleaves,tovegetablesoupsforthatspecialSouthIndiantaste.

Mustard:Anancientspicegrowninmostpartsoftheworld,mustardseedsareusedinbothWesternandIndianrecipes.Thepungencyof the seeds is fully releasedwhen they aregroundandmixedwithwater. InIndia,boththeyellowandblackseedsareusedincooking.Vindalooisapopularexampleofadishthatusesmustard.Mustardoil,madefromgroundmustardseeds, isusedwidely inEastandNorthIndia.Mustardseedsandmustardoilareusedfrequentlywhenpicklingfruits,andinvegetableandseafood

dishes.

NutmegandMace:ThesetwospicesarefromthesamefruitgrowninMalaysia,theIndiansubcontinent,IndonesiaandtheWestIndies.Nutmegistheseed,protectedbyathinshell.Theshellhasacoatoforangefleshwhich,whendried,becomesmace.Althoughthearomaofmaceissimilartothatofnutmeg,maceissweeter.Nutmegisusedfinelygratedinsweets,curriesandsauces,whilemaceiscoarselycrushedandusedtoflavoursoupsandstocks,aswellassweetdishesandrichMughalcurriesandbiryanis.Whenbuyingnutmegchooseseedsthatareround,compact,haveanoilyappearanceandfeelheavyfortheirsize.

OnionSeeds:Sometimesknownasblackcumin, these tinyblack seedshavea sweet flavour.An ingredientof theIndianfive-spicemix,panchphoron,onionseedsarealsousedasapicklingspiceandtoflavourbreads.

Pepper:TheseedsorberriesoftheplantPipernigrum,nativetotheMalabarCoastofIndia,aredriedtomakebothblackpepper(thewholeberry)andwhitepepper(huskremoved).Pepperisusedwhole,crushedcoarselyorfinelyground,andisalsoaningredientofgarammasala.

PoppySeeds:InIndia,whitepoppyseedsaremainlyusedfortheirnuttyflavourandthickeningqualitywhenaddedtorichcurriessuchaskormasandvegetablesdishes.Theyareusuallysoakedinhotwaterforatleasttwohoursandthengroundtoapaste.Addtocookedpotatoesforadeliciousvegetableaccompaniment.

Saffron:Theworld’smostexpensivespiceismadefromthedriedstamensofatypeofcrocusthatgrowsintheMediterranean,theMiddleEastandIndia.Aquarterofamillionplantsarerequiredtoyield450g(1lb)ofsaffron.Buyonlyfromreliablesourcesasfakesaffronisoftensoldasacheapersubstitute.Saffronhasanetherealfragrancewithapaleyellowcolourandshouldbeinfusedinwarmmilktoobtainthebestresults.Useinstocks,soups,riceanddesserts.

Turmeric:Aginger-likerhizomegrowninIndiaandtheWestIndies.InIndiaitisusuallydriedwholeandgroundtoapowder.Thehardresinousfleshofthedriedrootvariesfromadarkorangetoadeepreddishbrown.Initspowderformitisusuallybrightyellow.Turmericisnotonlyusedforitscolourandflavourbutalsoasapreservative.

BASICS

Indiancookinginvolvessomebasicrecipesandtechniquesthatyou’lluseagain and again. There are page references to these basic recipes andtechniques throughout the book. You’ll find themquite simple, and theyareworth learningbecause theywillmakeadifference to the taste andtexture of the dishes you cook. With them, your food will have thatmagicalauthenticIndianflavour.

RoastingandGrindingWholeSpicesSome recipes call for spices that are already ground. These recipes tend to require a subtlermix offlavours.Somerecipescallforwholespicesthatthenhavetobegroundfreshly–theresultisagreaterfreshness and a greater intensity of flavour. Then there are recipes that require whole spices to beroastedandground.This is theprocessofdry-roasting,ordry-toasting,wholespicesbeforegrindingthem.This intensifies the colour, flavour and aroma of the spices, and brings a greater richness anddepthtothetasteofthefinisheddish.Usingspicesthatarealreadygroundwillsaveabitoftime,buttheywillnotgivethesameresult.

Todry-roastwholespices,heatasmallfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addallthewholespicesthatthereciperequirestothepanandheatthemgently,stirringcontinuously,untiltheyarewarmedthroughandhavestartedtoreleasetheiraroma.Thisshouldtakeabout2–5minutes,dependingonthequantityandtype of spices you areworkingwith. Take care not to overheat the spices, as thiswill destroy theircolourandflavour.Ifthespicesaretoohottotouch,theyhavebeenburnt.

Removethespicesfromtheheatandleavetocool,thengrindinanelectricgrinderoruseamortarandpestletogetthedesiredcoarsenessorfineness.

MasalaThewordmasalaisagenerictermthatreferstoacombination,ormix,ofspices.Thefollowingspicemixesarecommonlyusedblends.

GaramMasalaMakes3tablespoons

Garammasalahasaverydelicateflavour,soit’sbesttomakeitfresheverytimeyouneedit.Thewordgarammeans‘warm’andreferstotheheatingpropertiesofthespicesusedinthisblend.AccordingtoAyurvedicmedicine–aHindusystemof traditionalmedicinethatoriginatedinIndia–allspicesareconsidered to be either heating or cooling, and youmaintain an equilibrium of heating and coolingelementsinthebodybywatchingwhatyoueat.

Garammasalaissometimessprinkledonmeat,fishorvegetabledishesrightattheendofcooking.

3teaspoonscuminseeds1teaspoongreencardamompods1teaspoonblackpeppercorns5cm(2in)cinnamonstick1teaspooncloves

Heatasmallfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthespicesandheatthemgently,stirringcontinuously,forabout2minutes,until they release theiraroma.Cool, then transfer toanelectricgrinderoruseamortar andpestle andprocess to a finepowder.Use asdirected in the recipe.Alternatively, youcanstore in an airtight container in the cupboard for 2days, or in the refrigerator or freezer for aweek,althoughitwilllosesomeofitssubtlearoma.

ChaatMasalaMakes6tablespoons

Thisisapiquant,tangy,sweet–spicyblendthatissprinkledonsalads,startersandslicedordicedfruit–fruitchaatisapopularsnackboughtfromstreetvendorsinIndia.Thisparticularspiceblendstoreswell,soitcanbemadeinadvanceorinlargerquantities.

1tablespooncuminseeds1tablespoonblackpeppercorns½teaspooncloves½tablespoondriedmintleaves¼teaspoonajwaiinseeds¼teaspoonasafoetida1tablespoonrocksalt1teaspoongroundamchur1teaspoongroundginger1teaspoonchillipowder

Heatasmallfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthecumin,peppercorns,cloves,driedmint,ajwaiinseedsandasafoetidaandheatgently,stirringcontinuously,forabout1minute,oruntiltheyreleasetheiraroma.Cool,thentransfertoanelectricgrinderoramortarandpestle.Addthesalt,amchur,gingerandchilliandprocesstoafinepowder.Useasdirectedintherecipe,orstoreinanairtightcontainerinthecupboardforupto3months.

BaltiMasalaMakes5tablespoons

This spicemixgets itsname from thecast-ironbucket, knownasabalti, thatwasoriginallyused tocook balti-style dishes. The karahi (a small Indianwok) has now replaced the bucket! Add tomeat,seafood or vegetable dishes while stir-frying over a high heat for the distinctive bold taste of balticooking.

1teaspoonchilliflakes

2tablespoonscorianderseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick½teaspooncloves½teaspoongreencardamompods1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves

Putallthespicesinanelectricgrinderoruseamortarandpestleandprocessuntilcoarselycrushedorground.Useasdirectedintherecipe,orstoreinanairtightcontainerinthecupboardforupto1month.

PanchPhoronMakes2tablespoons

Here isaspicemix fromBengal thatuseswholespicesrather thanspices thathavebeencrushedorground. It is added early in the cooking process to fish and vegetable dishes. The contrasting andcomplementary flavours of the spices – pungent, bitter, sweet, astringent – bounce off each other toprovideaspecialtaste.

1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds1teaspoonfenugreekseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspoonnigella(kalonji)

Toss thewhole spices together in a small bowl.Use as directed in the recipe, or store in an airtightcontainerinthecupboardforupto1year.

GingerPasteMakes250g(9oz/1cup)

Indiandishesareneverthickenedwithwheat flour–arealboonfor thosewhoaregluten-intolerant.Instead, sauces are thickenedwith other ingredients, which also add flavour.One of these is gingerpaste,whichgivesbodyandadifferenttastefromthatobtainedwithgratedginger.Itisimportanttousethepreparationmethod stipulated in the recipe,asdifferentmethodsgivedifferent results.Also, it isalwaysbettertomakeyourownpaste,asstore-boughtpastesoftencontainpreservativesandadditivesthatdistorttheflavour.

100g(3½oz)freshginger

Peel and chop the ginger. Process in a food processorwith 125ml (4 fl oz/½ cup)water to form asmoothpaste.Useasdirectedintherecipe,orstoreinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

GarlicPaste

Makes250g(9oz/1cup)

Along with ginger paste, garlic paste is commonly used to thicken sauces. It results in a smoothertextureandsubtler flavour thanchoppedorcrushedgarlic,whichgivesadifferent, fresher tasteandmorecoarselytexturedsauce.

100g(3½oz)garliccloves

Peel and chop the garlic. Process in a food processorwith 125ml (4 fl oz/½ cup)water to form asmoothpaste.Useasdirectedintherecipe,orstoreinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

SaffronInfusionMakes2tablespoons

Using an infusion of saffron threads inmilk distributes the saffron flavourmore evenly and stronglyduringcookingthansimplyaddingthesaffronthreadstothepan.Theinfusionmustbemadefresh,soreducetheamountyoumakeifthereciperequiresless.

3saffronthreads2tablespoonsmilk

Gentlyheatthesaffronandmilkinasmallsaucepanoveralowheatfor2minutes.Removefromtheheatandleave tostandfor20minutes to let theflavourdevelopandintensify.Useasdirected in therecipe.

GheeMakes500g(1lb2oz)

Gheeisclarifiedbutterorcream.ItisusedextensivelyinIndiancookingforsautéing,frying,shallow-fryingandevendeep-frying.ItisalsoaddedtodoughordrizzledoveracookeddishorIndianbreadjustbeforeservingtogivearich,nutty,butterytaste.Becauseitisclarified,itcanbeheatedtohighertemperaturesthanbutterwithoutburning.

You can buy ready-made ghee from Indian grocery stores. In some recipes you can use saltedbutterasasubstituteforghee,whileinotherrecipesyoucanusevegetableorcanolaoilinstead,buttheywillnotbringthesamerichflavourtothedish.

1kg(2lb3oz)unsaltedbutteror1litre(34floz/4cups)thick(double/heavy)cream

Heatthebutterorcreaminalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveralowheatandsimmergently,uncoveredandwithoutstirring,for1hour.Removefromtheheatandallowtheresiduetosettletothebottom,thendecanttheclearoilbypouringitverycarefullyintoanairtightcontainer.(Theresidueofcrispybitsleftinthebottomofthepanareconsideredadelicacy,andaredeliciouseatenwithsteamedrice.)Theclearliquidwill solidify when it is completely cool. Use as directed in the recipe, or store in an airtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto6months.

PanirCheeseMakes250g(9oz)

ThisfreshIndiancheese,knownaschaanainBengal,canbegrilled,fried,braisedorbaked.Itcanbeused in curries, stuffings, dips, snacks and desserts. Any kind of milk can be used to make panir,includinggoat’s,sheep’sandbuffalo’smilkaswellascow’s.Differentmilkswillgivedifferenttextures.Full-creammilk, forexample,willproducea softerandcreamierpanir.Differentacidagentscanbeusedtocurdle,orseparate,themilkandwillalsogiveadifferenttexture.Youcouldtrylemonorlimejuice,whey,yoghurtorbuttermilk.Thepanircanbehunginsteadofpressedtogiveadifferenttextureandconsistency,suitablefordesserts.

2litres(68floz/8cups)milk60ml(2floz/¼cup)whitevinegar

Linealargemeshstrainerwithacleansquareofmuslin(cheesecloth).

Putthemilkinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheatandbringjusttoaboil.Removefromtheheat and stir in thevinegar.Continue stirring just until themilk starts to separate, or curdle, andcurdsform.Thisshouldtakeabout1minute.

Pourtheliquidintothestrainerlinedwithmuslin,sothatthewheydrainsawayandthecurdsarecaughtin themuslin.Bring thecornersof themuslin in tomeetat thecentreand tie inaknot.Transfer thebundletoalargebowlandsitaplate,thatwillfit insidethebowl,directlyontothebundle,weighteddownwith2–3cans.Leaveforabout30minutes,oruntilthepanirisfirm.

Removethepanirfromthemuslinandimmerseitinalargebowlofcoldwater.Useasdirectedintherecipe.Alternatively,storeit,coveredinwater,inanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorfor5–7days.

TamarindPulpMakes250ml(8½floz/1cup)

TamarindisapopularsouringagentusedinIndiancooking.InNorthIndiaitisusuallycombinedwithsomethingsweet,suchasjaggery(darkbrownunrefinedsugar),molassesorsugar,toprovideasweetandsourflavourindishes.Inthewestandsouthitisnormallyusedinfishandvegetablepreparationsto add an intensely sour flavour. Tamarind is available in dried seedless form, as a concentrate oralreadypulpedinrefrigeratedtubs.Ipreferthedriedtamarindthatcanbereconstitutedintoapulp(asdescribed here) when required, rather than the concentrate, which has an overly strong colour andflavour,ortheready-madepulp,whichisperishable.

100g(3½oz)driedtamarind

Heat thedried tamarindand250ml (8½floz/1cup)water inasmall saucepanoveramediumheat,stirringoccasionally,forabout3–5minutes,oruntilthetamarindissoftenedanddisintegrating.Strainthroughameshstrainerintoabowltoobtainasmoothpulp.Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

FreshCoconutMilkMakes250ml(8½floz/1cup)

Fresh coconut milk has a sweet flavour all its own. It also tends not to be oily. Although not asconvenientasopeningacanofcoconutmilkorcream,therecipesinthisbookwillbevastlyimprovedwithfreshcoconut.FreshlygratedcoconutisavailablefromAsiangrocerystores.Makesureit isnotfrozenasthistendstolessentheflavour.Ifitisnotavailableandyouneedtograteyourown,cutthewhitecoconutfleshintolargepiecesandthengratewithagrater.Alternatively,putinafoodprocessorandusethegraterattachmenttoprocess,orsimplyprocesswiththebladeattachmenttochopfinely.

100g(3½oz/2cups)freshlygratedcoconut

Putthegratedcoconutinalargebowl,pourin375ml(12½floz/1½cups)hotwaterandsteepforabout30 minutes. Line a mesh strainer with a clean square of muslin (cheesecloth) and strain the liquidthroughthemuslinintoabowlunderneath.Pressdownfirmlyonthegratedcoconutinthemuslin-linedstrainer to extract all the thick rich liquid from it. Use the coconutmilk as directed, or store in anairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3days.

Note:Donotdiscard thegratedcoconut. Instead,use it to thickencurries,althoughbeaware that itwillnothaveastrongtaste.Oryoucanuseittorepeattheprocessofmakingfreshcoconutmilkuptothreetimes.Youwillobtainfirst-,second-andthird-strengthcoconutmilkthatcanbeaddedtorecipesforstrongorlightflavourandrichness.

SteamedorBoiledRiceServes4

Steamed rice, especially steamed basmati rice, is the best complement for most curries. It is theeveryday rice eaten in most Indian homes. North Indians prefer bread or biryanis and fried ricepreparations.Butwhilesteamedrice ispopular throughoutIndia, it isdeemedan insult tooffer it toguestsorserveitonfestiveoccasions–itshowsthatthehostdidnottakethetroubletoservesomethingmoreelaborate.

200g(7oz/1cup)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained

Tosteamtherice,putitinashallowheavy-basedsaucepan.Pourin375ml(12½floz/1½cups)water,stir and bring to a boil over a medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for about 20minutes.Donotuncoverorstirduringthecookingtime;thisensuresthatthericecooksevenlyanddoesnotbreakup.Removefromtheheatand,stillcovered,leavetorestfor10minutesbeforeserving.(Thisallowsthericegrainstoplumpuptotheirmaximumlength.)

Thericecanalsobecookedbytheboilingmethod.Putthericeand1litre(34floz/4cups)waterinalargesaucepan.Bringtoaboiloverahighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcookuncoveredforabout20minutes,oruntilthericeissoft.Draininasievebutdonotrinseincoldwater.

Thebeststeamedorboiledriceshouldbefirmtothetouchandaldente,notmushy.

Deep-fryingInIndiaakarahi(Indianwok)isusedfordeep-frying,butaChinesewokisagoodalternative.Thewokshapemeansthatlessoilisneeded,comparedwithasaucepan.However,theroundedbottomofthesewoksisonlysafetouseonagasstovetop.Specialwoksareavailabletouseoninductionstovetopsandareveryefficient.Ifyoudon’thaveasuitablewokyoucanuseanelectricdeep-fryer.

Useanyoilwithoutapronouncedflavour,butthathasahighsmokepoint,sothattheoilcanbeheatedtohightemperatureswithoutburning,spittingorgivingoffnoxiousfumes,andthefoodwon’ttakeontheparticularflavouroftheoil.

Different foods are deep-fried at different temperatures – the temperature of the oil can range from160°C(320°F)to210°C(410°F),dependingontheitembeingcooked.Forexample,asamosaisdeep-friedinoilheatedtoamediumheat(180°C/350°F)sothepastrycookswhilethefillinginsideisonlyheated through. On the other hand, a crumbed vegetable patty needs the oil to be at a high heat(200°C/400°F) tocookall theway through.Breadssuchaspoorisalsoneedoilatahighheat (200–210°C/400–410°F) to make them puff out, and are fried for a very short time only – about 40–60seconds.A thicker bread, such as a bhatura, needs slightly less heat (190–200°C/375–400°F) and isfriedforlonger–about2minutes–asitneedsextratimetocook.

You can check that the oil has reached the correct temperature with a kitchen thermometer.Alternatively,drop1teaspoonofpastry,doughorbatterintheoil.Ifitrisesimmediatelytothesurface,theoilisready.Ifitsettlesatthebottom,theoilisnothotenoughandthecookedfoodwillbegreasy.Ifthebatterturnsblack,itisveryhotandsuitablefordeep-fryingbreadsbutwouldburnverysmallitems.

Avoidthetemptationtofrytoomanyitemsatonceasthislowersthetemperatureoftheoilandmakesthe food greasy. To avoid being splashedwith hot oil, don’t drop the items to be cooked in from aheight. Instead, always put them on a slotted spoon or frying spoon, position the spoon as close aspossibletothehotoil(beingcarefulnottoburnyourself)andletthemslideingently.

PressurecookingThemodernpressurecooker is aboon to Indiancooking.While instructions for itsusehaven’tbeenincludedintherecipemethodsinthisbook,itcanreducethecookingtimeofcertaindishesbyabout75percent.

Youcanuseapressurecooker tomakethecookingof lentils,driedbeansandchickpeasaquickandeasy task.Afteranynecessarysoakingandrinsing,put the lentils,beansorchickpeas in thepressurecookerwiththespecifiedamountofwaterandcookforone-quarterofthetimespecifiedintherecipe,oruntiltheyaretherequiredsoftness.

Alsoconsiderusingapressurecooker for the lengthy tenderisingpartofcookingcurries thatuseredmeatonthebone,suchaslambshanksorbeeforvealshanks(thecutofmeatusedforossobucco);orsecondarycutsofmeat,suchas lamborgoatforequarterorshoulderchops;orcheapstewingcutsofmeatsuchasbeefneck,chuckorbrisket.Completealltheinitialsautéingofonions,pastesandspices,browningofmeatandstirringinofvegetablesinasaucepanonthestovetop.Thentransferthemixturetothepressurecookerandsimmerorcookgentlyforone-quarterofthetimespecifiedintherecipe,or

until the meat is the required tenderness. If the curry needs to be finished with the addition oftempering,creamoranyotheringredients,returnthemixturetothesaucepan,completethefinalstepsonthestovetopandserve.Otherwise,servedirectlyfromthepressurecooker.

STARTERS&SMALLBITES

InIndia,peoplelovetosnackthroughouttheday–morningtea,brunch,lightlunchandafternoontea,allprovideanopportunitytobiteintoasamosa,breakoffapieceofbreadanddipitintodal,salivateoveracharcoalgrilledkababorenjoythefreshcrispnessofavegetablepakora–thelistisendless.Therecipesin thischaptercomefromalloverIndia,andwhile theingredientscanchangefromregiontoregion,theendresultisthesame–deliciouslyfreshandtastydishesthatsatisfythemomentaryappetiteforsomethingsmall.

MostIndianfamiliesdonoteataformalcourse-by-coursemeal,andmanystartersandsmalldishesareoftenincorporatedintobanquet-stylemeals.PerhapsstartoffwithMasalaPappadumsandacoupleofchutneysfordipping(see theAccompanimentschapter),beforemovingon to traditionalPakorasandDahiKeKababs,servedalongsidelargerfishandmeatdishes.RecipessuchasVegetableSamosasandLentilandPrawnWadasworkequallywellservedwithpre-dinnerdrinksorasfingerfoodsataparty,orevenasalate-nightsnackafteranightout.

Alternatively, trySwissBrownMushroomswithAkuri forabreakfastwitha twist,or indulge in thegreatcombinationoftoastedbutterybreadandvegetabledip–PaoBhajee.

Manyoftherecipesinthischaptercanbepreparedaheadoftime,whichmeansyoudon’tneedtobeinthekitchenwheneveryoneelse isenjoying them.So, sitback, relaxand indulge in the tastiest smalltreatsIndiahastooffer.

MasalaPappadumsServes4/Makes8

This recipe takes the ubiquitous pappadum to the next level! The word pappadum comes from theSanskrit‘parpata’,meaningakindofthin,crispcakebakedorfriedinoil.Pappadumscanbeservedwithdrinksorasanappetiser.InSouthIndiatheyarenormallyservedwiththemainmeal,crumbledandmixedwithriceandcurriestoprovideanexcitingcrunch.Theycanbemadeoflentils,sago,riceorpotato.Theyareusually fried,althoughsomebrandscanbecookedonahotplateorunder thegrill(broiler).

250ml(8½floz/1cup)vegetableorcanolaoilforshallow-frying8plainpappadums2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leavespinchofchillipowder2tablespoonschaatmasala2tablespoonsdesiccated(grateddried)coconut

Heattheoilinawokorfryingpanoverahighheatuntilitissmoking.Cook1pappadumatatimeforabout2–3seconds,oruntilcrisp.Removefromthefryingpanimmediatelyandplaceonalargetray.Repeattheprocessfortheremainingpappadums.

Sprinkle the pappadums with the coriander, chilli powder, chaat masala and coconut. Serveimmediately.

Note:Youcanalsodeep-frythepappadumsifyouprefer.Heat500ml(17floz/2cups)oilinawokordeep-fryerto200°C(400°F),thencontinueasforthemethodabove.

PrawnCurryPuffsServes4/Makes12

MyearliestmemoriesofpicnicsinKolkata(Calcutta),inthebeautifulbotanicgardens,oratthefootofadamwallwithwaterthunderingnearby,cannotbeseparatedfromthenever-forgottentasteofbitingintoacurrypuffoverflowingwith freshprawns(shrimp).Thisdish isanAnglo–Indianspecialty.Youcanreplacetheprawnswithminced(ground)meatorvegetables,ifdesired.

2sheetsready-madeshortcrust(pie)pastryvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Filling2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1tablespoonchoppedonion1teaspoongarlicpaste1teaspoongingerpaste250g(9oz)rawprawns(shrimp),shelledanddeveined,chopped1springonion(scallion),chopped1tablespoonchoppedgreenchillismallhandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,choppedsmallhandfulmintleaves,chopped½teaspoongarammasala½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tomake thefilling,heat theoil inamediumsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sauté theonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntillightbrown.Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandcookfor1minute,thenaddtheprawnsandcook,stirring,forafurther2minutes.

Addthespringonion,chilli,coriander,mint,garammasalaandsalt.Stirtomixthrough,thenremovefromtheheatandallowtocool.Ifyouarenotusingthemixtureimmediately,putitintherefrigerator.

Cutthesheetsofpastryintotwelve5cm(2in)circles.Placeatablespoonoffillingononesideofeachpastrycircle.Drawtheotherhalfofthepastryoverthefillingandsealfirmly.

Heat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F). Fry the curry puffs a few at a time for 6–8minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Alternatively,youcanbakethecurrypuffs.Preheattheovento200°C(400°F).Placethecurrypuffsonagreased,non-stickbakingtrayandcookintheovenfor15minutes.Serveimmediately.

MushroomandCoconutShorbaServes4

SoupswerenottraditionallyservedinIndiaasafirstcourseuntilthearrivaloftheBritish.However,soup-likedrinks,bothhotandcold,weresometimesservedintumblersthroughoutthemeal.InSouthIndiapepperwaterandrasam(aspicyandacidicsoupwithtamarindjuiceasitsbase,saidtobegoodfordigestion)waspopular,whileinRajasthan,yoghurtsoupsweretraditionallyserved.NorthIndiansoupsaresometimescalledshorba,whichcanalsobeanothernamefora thicksauceorgravy.Thisshorba–acombinationofsweetandhotspices,mushroomsandcoconut–isareallynourishingsoup.Serveithotwithfreshcrustybread.

30g(1oz)saltedbutter2onions,sliced360g(12½oz)buttonorcapmushrooms,cleanedandslicedpinchofwhitepepper½teaspoonfennelseeds,ground1cm(½in)cinnamonstick,ground½teaspooncuminseeds,ground2greencardamompods½teaspooncorianderseeds250ml(8½floz/1cup)freshcoconutmilkorcannedcoconutmilk1teaspoongingerpaste125ml(4floz/½cup)thick(double/heavy)cream4makrut(kaffirlime)leaves½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heatthebutterinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonionforabout7minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Add themushrooms,white pepper, fennel, cinnamon, cumin, cardamompods, corianderand125ml(4floz/½cup)ofthecoconutmilk.Cookfor10minutesoveralowheat.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittle.

Puréethemixtureinafoodprocessororwithahand-heldblender.Returnthepuréetothesaucepan,andstir through the remaining coconut milk, the ginger paste, cream and makrut leaves. Cook over amediumheatforabout6minutes,oruntilthesoupisheatedthrough.Addthesaltandservehot.

PakorasServes4/Makes12–16

Quicktomakeandquicktoeat,thesecrispyfriedfrittersareapopularfingerfoodinIndia.Thisrecipeisforthetraditionalpakora–thetempura-styleindividualpieceofvegetablefriedinbatter.Therearemanytypesofpakoras,includingprawn(shrimp),chicken,fish,breadandevenhard-boiledegg!Theyareareallyversatilesnacktomakewhenfriendsdropinunannounced,asyouaresuretohaveatleastoneortwovegetablesthatyoucanusetodipinthebatter.PakorasaredeliciousservedwithTamarindandGingerChutneyorGreenChutney.

250g(9oz)preparedmixedvegetables,choosingfromthefollowing:200g(7oz)Englishspinach,stemsdiscarded,individualleavesseparated1smalleggplant(aubergine),slicedinto2.5cm(1in)thickbatons1largeonion,slicedintothickrings1largepotato,peeledandslicedinto5mm(¼in)rounds4cauliflowerflorets,brokenintosmallfloretsabout2.5cm(1in)across

vegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Batter110g(4oz/1cup)besan(chickpeaflour)1teaspoonajwaiinseeds1teaspoonchillipowder2teaspoonswhitevinegar½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tomakethebatter,mixtogetherthebesan,ajwaiinseeds,chillipowder,vinegarandsaltinamediumbowl,thenmakeawellinthecentre.Graduallypourin275ml(9½floz)waterwhilewhiskingtogethertheingredientstoformabatterthathasacoatingconsistency–itshouldcoatthebackofthespoonandgentlydripdown.Stirinalittlemorewater,ifnecessary,toachievetherightconsistency.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Diptheindividualpiecesofvegetableinthebatterand deep-fry a few at a time until golden brown and cooked through – about 2–3 minutes for thespinachleaves,4minutesfortheeggplantbatonsandonionrings,and5minutesforthepotatoroundsandcauliflowerflorets.Removefromtheoilanddrainonkitchentowels.Servehot.

VegetableSamosasServes4

Youcanbuyready-madesamosas–friedcone-shapedpastriesusuallyfilledwithvegetables–ateverycornershop in India.But thehomemadeversion ismuchnicerandcanbemade inarangeof sizes,depending on whether you want to serve them as cocktail nibbles or as a starter or lunch snack.Samosascanbefilledwithvegetables,meat,seafoodorevenchocolate!ServethesesavouryvegetableversionswithGreenChutney.

2sheetsready-madeshortcrust(pie)pastryvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Filling150g(5½oz/1cup)dicedmixedvegetables,choosing4ofthefollowing:

1smallpotato,peeled1smallcarrot,peeled50g(1¾oz/¼cup)cornkernelscutfromthecob½smallsweetpotato,peeled6greenbeans,trimmed40g(1½oz/¼cup)shelledfreshorfrozenpeas2cauliflowerflorets

1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundcoriander½teaspoonchillipowder½teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tomakethefilling,cookthevegetablesofyourchoiceinamediumsaucepanofboilingsaltedwateroveramediumheatuntiltheyarejusttender.Asaguide,cookthepotatofor4minutes;addthecarrot,cornandsweetpotatoandcookforafurther2minutes;thenaddthebeans,peasandcauliflowerandcookforafinal2minutes.Drain.

Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthecumin,coriander,chillipowder,turmeric,saltandcookedvegetables,mixtogetherwellandcookforabout1minute.Removefromtheheatandallowtocool.

Cutthesheetsofpastryintoovals:makeovals7.5cm(3in)inlengthforsmallsamosasandovals15cm(6in)inlengthforlargesamosas.Nowcuteachovalinhalfacrossthewidthoftheoval–younowhave narrow hemisphere shapes of pastry. Fold the corners on the straight side of each hemisphereinwards.Lightlymoistentheedgesofeachhemispherewithwater, thenbringthe twoedges tomeet,pinchthemtogetherandshapethepastryintoacone.Placealittleofthefillingineachcone,thenfoldoverthetopofthepastrytocoverthefillingandsealthesamosa.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Fryafewsamosasatatimeuntillightbrownandthepastry iscooked–about5minutes for small samosasand7minutes for largesamosas.Drainonkitchentowelsandservehot.

HalimLambandCrackedWheatwithToastServes4

Hyderabad, the capital of the stateAndhraPradesh in South India, has a fantastic food culture. Itskababs,biryanisandcurriesareworld-renowned. I first tasted this famousHyderabadi recipeat theexclusive Hyderabad Club. It shows off the versatility of Indian cooking and the influence of theMughals.ThisisaspecialdishservedduringtheMuslimmonthofRamadan,thetimeoffasting.Lambisthesacrificialmeattraditionallyused.Itmaybeanancientrecipe,buthalimlambworksreallywellasacontemporarydish,servedasawarmdipwithslicesoftoastedcrustybread.

100g(3½oz)minced(ground)lamb,preferablyfromtheleg100g(3½oz)crackedwheat1½tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1onion,sliced2greenchillies1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste1tablespoonchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1tablespoonchoppedmintleaves1teaspoongarammasalajuiceof1lemon½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste8slicessourdoughorothercrustybread,toasted,toserve

Putthelamb,crackedwheatand1litre(34floz/4cups)waterinalargesaucepan.Coverwithalidandcookovera lowheatfor2hours,stirringregularly,until themeat iscookedthroughandthemixturelookslikeathicksauce.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over amedium heat. Sauté the onion, stirring occasionally, for about 5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Add thechillies,gingerandgarlicpastes,coriander,mintandgarammasalaandcookfor2minutes.Stirinthemeatmixtureandcookforafurther10minutes.

Remove from the heat and blend with a hand-held blender until the mixture has a porridge-likeconsistency.Stirthroughthelemonjuiceandsalt,andservehotwiththetoastedbread.

MulligatawnySoupServes4

Areallyretrorecipe, thisdish isoneofcolonial India’s favouritesoupsand it isstillserved instuffyclubs and dingy hill station hotels. Full of lovely aromatic flavours, this British-influenced ‘pepperwater’ is fabulously fragrant andwillwarmup the coldest evening.A true jewel in theRaj culinarycrown!

250g(9oz)beefneck,chuckorbrisket,diced1smallonion,sliced1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste60g(2oz/¼cup)splitredlentils(masoordal)orsplityellowpeas1carrotorturnip,peeledanddiced2½–5cm(1–2in)cinnamonstick12curryleaves1teaspoonturmeric250ml(8½floz/1cup)freshcoconutmilkorcannedcoconutmilk4ripetomatoes,chopped,or400g(14oz)candicedtomatoes,drained2teaspoonseachcuminandcorianderseeds,roastedandground¼teaspoonfenugreekseeds,roastedandgroundsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste2tablespoonslimejuicecookedrice(optional)togarnishFriedOnionstogarnishlemonorlimewedgestogarnish

Inalargesaucepanorstockpot,combinethebeef,onion,gingerandgarlicpastes,lentilsorpeas,carrotor turnip, cinnamon, curry leaves and turmericwith 800ml (27 fl oz)water. Bring to a boil over amediumheat,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor1hour.

When the lentils are soft, stir in the coconutmilk, tomato, cumin, coriander, fenugreek, and salt andpeppertotaste,andcookfor15minutes.Stirinthelimejuiceandcookforafurther5minutes.

Servehot,garnishedwitha littlecookedrice ifyouhaveitavailable,friedonionsandlemonor limewedges.

PaoBhajeeServes4

TheBollywoodcrowdqueueupatMumbai’sspecialistcafésandstreetcartsforthisfavouritesnack–asilkyvegetabledipservedwithbutteredtoastedrolls.ThePortugueseintroducedyeast-typebreadstowesternIndiainthesixteenthcentury.‘Pao’referstosmallloavesofbread,and‘bhajee’isaselectionofvegetablescookedonahotplatewithtomatoesandbutter.

150g(5½oz)saltedbutter2tablespoonsgingerpaste6ripetomatoes,chopped,or1.5x400g(14oz)cansdicedtomatoes,drained2tablespoonsgarlicpaste4largepotatoes,peeled,boiledandroughlymashed2teaspoonschillipowder½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastesmallhandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped,plusextratoserve1teaspoongarammasala8smallbreadrolls,slicedinhalfcrosswiselemonwedgestoserve

Heataheavy-basedfryingpanorabarbecuehotplatetoamediumheat.Melt75g(2¾oz)ofthebutter,thenaddthegingerpasteandcook,stirring,for5–10seconds.Stirinthetomatoandgarlicpasteandcookforabout8–10minutes,oruntil thetomatohassoftened.Addthepotato,chillipowderandsaltandcookoveramediumheat,stirringcontinuously,forabout10minutes.Addthecorianderandfinallythegarammasalaandstirtomixthrough.Transferthebhajeetoaheatproofbowl.

Melt theremainingbutter inthepanoronthehotplate.Addthebreadrolls,cutsidedown,andcookoveramediumheatforabout4–6minutes,untiltheyarebrownandhavesoakedupthemeltedbutter.

Servethebreadrollstoppedwiththebhajeeandextrachoppedcoriander,plusthelemonwedgesontheside.Alternatively, serve thebhajee inabowlwith the rollsonaservingplatter, for scoopingup thevegetabledip.

OnionUthappamsServes4

WalkintoaSouthIndiancanteenorcaféduringtheearlypartofthedayandyouwillbegreetedbythesightoflargehotplateswithmanyvariationsoftheuthappambeingcookedtoorder.Uthappams–thewordisderivedfromappam,whichisaricepancake–areSouthIndia’sfantasticbreakfastandbrunchdish.Thesefermentedriceandlentilpancakesareusuallyvegetarian,butattheSpiceKitchenwehaveaddedtoppingssuchaseggs,prawns(shrimp),crabmeatandroastduckforaspecialtouch.Don’tbeputoffbythetimeittakestomakethebatter–oncemade,itcanbeleftintherefrigeratorforaweek.

30g(1oz)gheeorsaltedbutteror2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoilCoconutChutneytoserve

Batter225g(8oz/1cup)parboiled(converted)riceorothershort-grainrice75g(2½oz)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice150g(5½oz/¾cup)splitwhitelentils(whiteuraddal)½teaspoonfenugreekseeds1red(Spanish)onion,chopped2greenchillies,choppedlargehandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tomakethebatter,rinsetheparboiledandbasmatiriceandthelentilsincoldwater,thendrain.Putinalargebowlwiththefenugreekseedsand2litres(68floz/8cups)water,coverandsoakovernight.

Draintherice,lentilsandfenugreekseeds,thenprocessinafoodprocessortoformasmoothbatterthathastheconsistencyofathicksoup.Pourintoacleanlargebowl,coverandkeepinawarmplacefor8–12hourstoallowthebattertoferment.Whenitisready,itwillhavelittlebubblesonthesurfaceandaslightlysoursmell.

Addtheonion,chilli,corianderandsalttothebatterandmixtogetherthoroughly.

Heataheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatforabout2minutes.Pourasmallladlefulofbatterintothepanandswirlitaroundtocoverthebaseofthepanandformathinpancake.Cookforabout4minutes,oruntilbubblesappearonthesurface.Addalittleghee,butteroroilaroundtheedgesof the pancake, then turn and cook the other side for a further 3 minutes, until golden brown andcrunchyontheoutside.Removefromthepanandservewiththecoconutchutney.

CabbageBondasServes4/Makes8–10

A very popular snack inMumbai and its surrounding regions, bondas are round fritters made withbesan (chickpea flour) and filled with potatoes. Sold from street carts or udipi cafés (vegetarianworking-mens’ canteens known for great-value, basic food), bondas are easily made at home. Thisversionisnotsowellknownbutisdeliciouswiththeaddedcrunchofcabbage.

75g(2¾oz)finelyshreddedwhiteorredcabbage1tablespoonfinelychoppedonion2tablespoonsfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli½teaspoonturmeric110g(4oz/1cup)besan(chickpeaflour)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastevegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-fryingCoconutChutneytoserve

Mixtogetherthecabbage,onion,coriander,chilli,turmeric,besanandsaltinalargebowl.

Add60ml (2 floz/¼cup)water,1 tablespoonata time,andstir tocombineuntil themixtureholdstogether firmly. (The amount of water required will depend on the type of besan you use, as somebesansretainmoreliquidthanothers.)Withwethands,shapethemixtureintoflattenedpatties,about1cm(½in)thickand3cm(1¼in)indiameter.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Deep-frythepatties,afewatatime,forabout4minutes,oruntilcrispandgoldenbrown.Drainonkitchentowels,andservewiththecoconutchutney.

Note:Themixturecanbestoredintherefrigeratorforupto12hours.Duringthistime,waterwillseepoutofthesaltedcabbageandmakethemixturerunny,soyoumayfindthatyoudonotneedtoaddextrawaterbeforeformingthemixtureintopatties.

DahiKeKababsServes3–4/Makes6–8

ThereisahugerepertoireofIndiankababrecipes,frommeatpattiesandmeatonthebone,torecipesthatincludevegetablesandlentils.However,thisunique,melt-in-the-mouthNorthIndianrecipe,madefromdrainedplainyoghurt,isoutstanding.YoghurtisaverypopularingredientthroughoutIndiaandcantakeastarringrole,asthisrecipedemonstrates.ServethepattieswithagreensaladandTomatoChutney.TheyarealsogoodasastarteroraspartofanIndianbanquet.

1kg(2lb3oz/4cups)plainorthickGreek-styleyoghurt1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli1tablespoonfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves55g(2oz/½cup)besan(chickpeaflour)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil

Puttheyoghurtinthemiddleofacleansquareofmuslin(cheesecloth)restinginabowlorcontainer.Bringthecornersintomeetatthecentreandtieinaknot.Hangthebundlecontainingtheyoghurtfroma hook, put a container underneath to catch the drainingwhey, and leave to drain for 6–8 hours. Inwarmerweather,hangthebundleintherefrigerator.

Tip thedrainedyoghurt into a largebowl.Add thechilli, coriander, besanand salt andmix togetherwell.Withwethands,shapethemixtureintosmallpattiesabout2.5cm(1in)indiameter.(Youshouldmake6–8pattiesfromthisamountofmixture.)

Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Cookthepatties,afewatatime,forabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrustyontheoutside.Drainonkitchentowelsandservehot.

SwissBrownMushroomswithAkuriServes4

Breakfast in India is never boring! Akuri is the Parsee version of scrambled eggs, eaten inwesternIndian cuisine. This recipe is a combination of spicy scrambled eggs and mushrooms. It can becombinedwithgreenpeasor thinly sliced friedokra,or it is deliciousonabedof crisp-friedStrawPotatoes.Servewithgood-qualitybread,suchassourdough,Turkishflatbreadorabaguette,orwithPoorisforaproperIndianbreakfast.

8largeSwissbrownmushroomsorotherflatmushrooms,suchasfieldmushrooms,cleanedandstalksremoved

1tablespooncrushedblackpeppercorns2tablespoonssesameoil6largeeggs50g(1¾oz/⅓cup)freshorfrozenpeas1tablespoonchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli½red(Spanish)onion,finelychopped½teaspoonturmeric¼teaspoonchillipowder½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoillemonwedgestoserve

Preheatthegrill(broiler)toamediumheatorpreheattheovento220°C(430°F).

Putthemushrooms,pepperandsesameoilinalargebowlandstircarefullytocoatwell.Marinatefor2minutes.

Grillthemushroomsfor5minutes,orcookthemintheovenfor7–8minutes.

Lightlybeattheeggsinamediumbowl,thenstir inthepeas,coriander,greenchilli,onion,turmeric,chillipowderandsalt.

Heatthegheeoroilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Pourintheeggmixtureandcook,stirringgently,untilscrambled,about3minutes.Filleachmushroomwithsomeofthescrambledeggandservewithlemonwedges.

Alternatives:Youcanusethisrecipeasaguideforcookingothereggbreakfastdishes.Forexample,makeamasalaomelettebycombiningtheeggswiththespicesandherbs.Alternatively,makeeggsen

cocottewithadifference–break thewholeeggs intoanovenproofdish,sprinklewith thespicesandherbsandbakeinanovenpreheatedto160°C(320°F)for20minutes,oruntilsettoyourliking.

HyberabadiKababNizamiServes4/Makes8–12

IfirsttastedthisunusualrecipeinaHyderabadclubknownforitscutting-edgecuisine.Thepaté-liketextureofthemeatisachievedwithatraditionaltenderisingmethodthatusestheenzymesofkiwifruitorunripepapayatosoftenthemeat.ServethesekababsasanentréewithGreenChutneyandanOnionSalad,orwithwedgesofflatbreadorpittabreadforasharedstarter.

20g(¾oz)FriedOnions2greenchillies2kiwifruit,peeledandchopped,or2tablespoonspeeledandchoppedunripepapaya500g(1lb2oz)minced(ground)lamb1tablespoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpastejuiceof1lemonorlime1teaspoongarammasala½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2largeeggs60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt2tablespoonssaffroninfusion,using2saffronthreadsonly60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil

Inafoodprocessor,blendthefriedonions,chilliesandkiwifruitorpapayatoformapaste.

Transferthepastetoabowl.Addthelamb,gingerandgarlicpastes,lemonorlimejuice,garammasala,saltandeggs,andmixtocombinewell.Coverandrefrigeratefor4hours.

Mixtogethertheyoghurtandsaffroninfusioninasmallbowl.

Preheattheovento200°C(400°F).Wetyourhands,thentakeahandfulofthemeatmixtureandshapeitintoasmallpyramidabout4cm(1½in)tall.Placeonanon-stickbakingtray.Repeattouseupallthemixture.Topeachpyramidwith1tablespoonoftheyoghurtandsaffronmixture.

Cook in theoven for10minutes.Bastewith thegheeoroil, then return to theoven and cook for afurther7–10minutes.Servehot.

BeetrootandVegetable‘Chops’Serves4/Makes8–10

Thesecrispy,breadcrumb-coated,soft,beetrootypattieshavethecrunchofpeanutsandthefirm,sweetbite of sultanas. They are amust at a Bengali wedding. Imagine thewedding guests at long tables,eatingoffbananaleaves,thewaitersbearingbasketsoffreshlycookedbeetroot(beet)‘chops’.Achefoncesharedhis secret ingredient for thisdishwithme:heusedbeer insteadofmilk for thecoating!ServeasacocktailsnackoraspartofanIndianmeal.

1smallbeetroot(beet),peeledandquartered1potato,peeledandquartered2carrots,peeledandthicklysliced60g(2oz)shelledfreshorfrozenpeas2tablespoonsunsaltedrawpeanuts2tablespoonssultanas(goldenraisins)1greenchilli,chopped1tablespoongarammasala½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste75g(2¾oz/½cup)plain(all-purpose)flour2largeeggs125ml(4floz/½cup)milkorbeer75g(2¾oz)dryorfreshbreadcrumbs(seeNote)vegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Put the beetroot in a small saucepan of boiling salted water and cook over a medium heat for 20minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.Drainwell,thenroughlymash.Meanwhile,putthepotatoandcarrotinamediumsaucepanofboilingsaltedwaterandcookoveramediumheatfor8minutes.Addthepeas,bringbacktoaboilandcookfor2minutes.Drainwell,thenroughlymash.

Put themashedbeetroot, potato, carrot andpeas in a largebowl.Stir in thepeanuts, sultanas, chilli,garammasalaandsaltandmixtogetherthoroughly.Withyourhands,shapethemixtureintoegg-shapedovals.(Youshouldmake8–10withthisamountofmixture.)

Put the flourona largeplate.Lightlybeat theeggswith themilkorbeer ina shallowbowl.Put thebreadcrumbsonaseparatelargeplate.

Rolleachpattyintheflourtolightlycoat.Diptheflouredpattiesintheeggandmilkorbeermixturetocovercompletely.Allowanyexcesstodripoffbeforerollingeachpattyinthebreadcrumbs,pressingdownfirmlytomakesuretheyarewellcoated.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Deep-fryafewofthepattiesatatimeforabout4

minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Drainonkitchentowelsandservehot.

Note: Dried breadcrumbs are usually used for coating the patties, but fresh breadcrumbs give acrunchiertexture.

BananaChilliandandPotatoPakorasServes4/Makes12

Today,Indiaproducesalmosteverysinglevarietyofchillithatisavailableglobally,butchillieswereinfact only introduced there in the sixteenth century.Chilli ismainly used to impart that addictive hotsensationtofood,butsomerecipeshaveevolvedwithchilliasthestaringredient.Thisrecipeisoneofthem, and despite the fact that you are biting into a chilli, these pakoras are not very hot becausebananachilliesaremildandalso,theseedsareremoved.ServewithGreenChutneyasasnackorasanaccompanimenttobarbecuedmeats.

3potatoes,skinslefton6bananachillies½teaspoonchillipowder½teaspoongroundamchur½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastevegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Batter110g(4oz/1cup)besan(chickpeaflour)½teaspoonturmeric½teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonajwaiinseeds½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Cook the potatoes in a covered saucepan of boiling salted water over a medium heat for about 15minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.Drainwell,thenleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandle.Peelandroughlymash.(Youshouldhavetheequivalentofabout230g(8oz/1cup)ofmashedpotato.)

Whilethepotatoiscooling,carefullycutthebananachilliesinhalflengthwiseandremovetheseeds.

Mixtogether thepotato,chillipowder,amchurandsalt inamediumbowl.Stuffeachchillihalfwiththismixture.

Tomakethebatter,mixtogetherthebesan,turmeric,chillipowder,ajwaiinseeds,saltandabout375ml(12½floz/1½cups)waterinamediumbowl.Addthewatergraduallyuntilthebatterhasthecorrectconsistency–itshouldcoatthebackofthespoonandgentlydripdown.(Theamountofwaterrequiredtoachievethisconsistencywilldependonthetypeofbesanyouuse,assomebesansretainmoreliquidthanothers.)

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Carefullydipthestuffedchilliesinthebatter,then

deep-frythemforabout5minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Drainonkitchentowelsandserveimmediately.

LentilandprawnwadasServes4/Makes8

Wadasarefriedlentilorvegetabledumplings.TheyoriginatefromwesternandsouthernIndiaandareusually served as a snack or cocktail nibble. This recipe includes prawns (shrimp),which create anespeciallydeliciousflavour.Thesoftjuicinessoftheprawnscontrastswellwiththeearthylentilflavourandcrunchytexture.ThesewadasgowellwithCoconutChutney.

8rawtigerormediumprawns(shrimp),shelledanddeveined½teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste115g(4oz)splitredlentils(masoordal),rinsedanddrained1tablespoonfinelychoppedonion1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli½teaspoonchillipowdervegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-fryinglimewedgestoserve

Tosstheprawnswiththeturmericandsaltinasmallbowl,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

Putthelentilsinamediumbowl,coverwithwaterandsoakfor2hours.Drain,thentransfertoafoodprocessorandprocesscoarsely.

Transfer the lentil mixture to a clean bowl, add the onion, green chilli and chilli powder and mixtogether.Withwethands,shapethemixtureintoeightsmall,flatpatties,about2.5–3.5cm(1–1½in)indiameter (dependingon the sizeof theprawns).Place aprawnon topof eachpatty andpressdownfirmly.

Heat theoil in awokordeep-fryer to amediumheat of 180°C (350°F).Deep-fry thepatties in twobatches forabout7minutes,oruntilcrispandcooked.Drainonkitchen towelsandservehotwithafreshsqueezeoflime.

fishAmritsariServes4

In busy marketplaces in the Punjab, people queue up from lunchtime to midnight to savour thisaromaticfreshwaterfishsnack,aspecialtyofAmritsar.Addsomeslicedred(Spanish)onion,asqueezeoflemonjuice,wrapitallinpaperandyouhaveyourfishfixfortheday!Thesecrispyfishbitesareidealforcocktailsnacksorasastartertothemainmeal.

500g(1lb2oz)firmwhitefishfillets,suchassnapper,mullet,lingorcodvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-fryinglemonwedgestoserve

Marinade2tablespoonswhitevinegar1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1teaspoonajwaiinseeds1teaspoonchillipowder¼teaspoonturmeric½teaspoonwhitepepper40g(1½oz)besan(chickpeaflour)3–4dropsoftandooricolour(optional)(seeNotes)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Cutthefishinto2.5cm(1in)piecesandputinashallowdish.

To marinate the fish, sprinkle the vinegar, ginger and garlic pastes, ajwaiin seeds, chilli powder,turmeric,whitepepper,besan, tandooricolour, ifusing,andsaltover the fishpiecesand turn tocoatthemevenly.Coverwithplasticwrapandmarinateintherefrigeratorforabout20minutes.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Deep-frythefish,afewpiecesatatimeforabout7–8minutes,oruntilcrispandcooked.Drainonkitchentowelsandservewithlemonwedges.

Note:Sprinklingtheindividualmarinadeingredientsoverthefishoneafteranother,ratherthanmixingallthemarinadeingredientstogetherbeforecoatingthefish,actuallyresultsintheingredientsmixingtogetherbetterandcoatingthefishmoreevenly.

TandooricolourisanIndianfoodcolouringthathasnotaste.YoucanbuyitinIndiangrocerystores.

UpmaServes4

Upma,meaningsaltandflour,isarecipethatoriginatesfromthesouthofIndia.Thisisagreatdishforbreakfast,brunchora light lunch.Thesemolinaresemblesa flaky, lightpolentadishwith theaddedflavourofspices,andisdeliciousteamedwithCoconutChutneyandSambarDal.

30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonsplitwhitelentils(whiteuraddal)½teaspoonsplityellowpeas1teaspoonasafoetidapowder1tablespooncurryleaves1tablespoonchoppedonion1teaspoonfinelychoppedginger1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli½teaspoonturmeric125g(4½oz/1cup)semolina½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoonlemonjuice1tablespoonfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves

Heat thegheeoroil in a large fryingpanover amediumheat.Stir in themustard seeds, splitwhitelentilsandsplityellowpeas,asafoetidapowderandcurryleaves,andcookuntilthemustardseedsstartto crackle. Immediately add the onion, ginger and chilli and sauté for about 5 minutes, stirringoccasionally.

Addtheturmericandsemolinaandstircontinuously,untilthesemolinaiswellcoatedwiththemixture.Add250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterandthesaltandcook,stirringvigorously,for5minutes,oruntilthesemolina is cooked and has absorbed all the water. Stir the lemon juice and coriander through thesemolinamixtureandservehot.

OnionBhajeesServe4/Makes16

InGujarat,pakoras,orvegetablefritters,areknownasbhajeesorbhajias.Theyarequicktocookandfuntoeatasastarteroracocktailbite.AttheSpiceKitchenoneofourmostpopularstartersisnamedBOB(BestofBritish)–acombinationofonionbhajeesandChickenTikkaMasala.ServethesebhajeeswithTamarindandGingerChutneyorLimeJuiceChutney.

2largeonions,sliced55g(2oz/½cup)besan(chickpeaflour)pinchofchillipowderpinchofturmeric2teaspoonswhitevinegar½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastevegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Mixtogethertheonion,besan,chillipowder,turmeric,vinegarandsaltinalargebowl.

Add60–125ml (2–4 floz/¼/½cup)water to themixturegradually,1 tablespoonata time,andmixtogetheruntilthebesancoatstheonion.Thereshouldbejustenoughbesanmixturetoholdtheonionslices together. (Theamountofwater required toachieve thisconsistencywilldependon the typeofbesanyouuse,assomebesansretainmoreliquidthanothers.Donotaddtoomuchwaterasthebhajeeswilldisintegratewhenfried.)

Heat theoil inawokordeep-fryer to180°C(350°).Deep-frya fewbhajeesata time forabout6–8minutes,oruntilcrispandgoldenbrown.Drainonkitchentowelsandservehot.

VEGETABLES&PULSES

Arguablytheworld’smostdiverseanddeliciousvegetarianfood,thesheervarietyofIndianvegetarianrecipes is astounding. India has the world’s largest vegetarian population, with 60–70 per centconsuming an entirelymeat-free diet.As a result,wonderful dishes ranging from the simplest to themostelaborate,appearinthehomesofboththerichandpoor,andinrestaurantsthroughoutIndia.Justoneortwospicesareneededtoenhancethedistinctiveflavourofindividualvegetables,whetheritbethehumblepotato,asweetpumpkin(wintersquash)orthemoreexoticokra.

Traditionally,vegetablesandpulsesareeatentogetherwithotherdishesaspartofasharedIndianmeal.RicedishessuchasVegetableBiryaniandMushroomandChickpeaPulaooftenfeaturealongsidemeatandfishdishes,asdodals,curriesandsimplesidedishes,suchasPumpkinwithPanchPhoronorGreenBeanThoran.

Althoughtherearemanyvegetarians inIndia,hardlyanyarevegan.Dairyplaysanimportantpart inIndian vegetarian cooking – yoghurt, ghee,milk, cream and panircheese are all used.However, forthose wanting to avoid these, substitutes such as coconut milk (for cream and milk), vinegar (foryoghurt),andgroundcashewsandalmondscanoftenbeused.

Thedishesinthischaptercaneitherbeeatenasstand-alonemealswithriceorbreadortheycanbepartofalargerfeast.Trypairingthemwithotherrecipesinthisbookandseewhichflavoursyoulikebest.Therearenorules!

SpicyPumpkinServes4

As young children, we took our regular holidays in Dehradun, in the Himalayan foothills, with mygrandparents.As a special treat,my grandmotherwould send out for this pumpkin dishwith freshlymadePooris.Thesightofmygrandparents’cook,MotiSingh,cyclingbackwiththegoodiesswinginginabagfromthehandlebarswouldsetallofusdrooling,whilehepretendedtobeaffrontedthatwepreferredthe‘boughtstuff’tohishome-cookeddelicacies.Youcanservethisdishasanaccompanimenttomeatorvegetablemaincourses,orbyitselfwithpooris.

1½tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil¼teaspoonfennelseeds¼teaspoonfenugreekseeds¼teaspoonblackmustardseeds¼teaspoonnigella(kalonji)1driedwholeredchilli500g(1lb2oz)butternutpumpkin(squash),peeledanddiced1tablespoontamarindpulp2teaspoonssugar1teaspoongroundcorianderpinchofasafoetidapowder1teaspoonchillipowder½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heat theoil ina largesaucepanoveramediumheat.Addthefennelseeds, fenugreekseeds,mustardseeds,nigella,driedredchilliandpumpkinandsauté,stirringcontinuouslytocoatthepumpkinwiththespices,forabout1minute.

Stirinthetamarindpulp,sugar,coriander,asafoetidapowder,chillipowderandsaltwith250ml(8½floz/1cup)water.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforabout30minutes,oruntilthepumpkinissoftandstartingtodisintegrate.Servehot.

ChickpeaMasalaServes4

ADelhiandPunjabi street-food favourite, you can find chickpeamasalaandbhaturas– fluffy, friedbreads – at almost every little street café and cart. The chickpea masala is arranged in a mouth-wateringmound,andscatteredwithlemonwedges,wholegreenchillies,slicesofred(Spanish)onionandpiecesoftomato.Imightneverhavegotthroughuniversitywithoutmyregularvisittothechickpeaandbhaturavendor.Therewasalwaysaneagerlywaiting,impatientqueue.EnjoythisdishaspartofanIndianmealorservewithBhaturasforbrunchorlunch.

200g(7oz)driedchickpeasor1×400g(14oz)canchickpeas,rinsedanddrained1blackteabag(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1½tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1smallonion,chopped1tablespooncrushedgarlic1tablespoonfinelyshreddedfreshginger2greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact1tomato,chopped1tablespoongroundcoriander1tablespoongroundcuminpinchofturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoongroundamchur½teaspoongarammasalasmallhandfulchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaveslemonwedgestogarnishgreenchilliestogarnishred(Spanish)onionquarterstogarnishjuliennedfreshgingertogarnish

If using dried chickpeas, soak them overnight in a large bowl of water. Drain, then put in a largesaucepanwiththeteabag,saltandplentyoffreshwater.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheatandcook over amedium heat for 1–2 hours, until tender. Skim off the residue as it rises to the surfaceduringcooking.Drainthecookedchickpeas,reserving250ml(8½floz/1cup)ofthecookingliquid.

Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout7minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Stir in the garlic, ginger and green chillies and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add thetomato,groundcorianderandcumin,turmeric,chillipowderandamchurandstirtocombine,thencookfor2–3minutes.

Stirinthecookedchickpeasandtheirreservedcookingliquid,orthedrainedcannedchickpeasand250ml(8½floz/1cup)water.Continuecookinguncoveredfor30minutes.

When the liquid is almost absorbed, finish the dish by sprinkling in the garammasala and choppedcorianderandstirringthrough.

Servegarnishedwithlemonwedges,greenchillies,onionquartersandjuliennedginger.

Note:Theteabaggivesthisdishitstraditionaldarkcolourandalsoaveryfaintteaflavour.Ifyouusecannedchickpeas,youomitthestepofcookingthemwiththeteabag.Evenso,youshouldstillobtainafairlygoodresult.

VegetableBiryaniServes4

Biryani is essentially a special rice dish flavoured with saffron and spices, and cooked with meat.Biryanihas itsorigins inPersia(present-dayIran).Eleventh-centuryMughals loved theirricepilafs,andtheseevolved into themoreelaboratebiryaniwith theadditionofspicesanddistinctiveregionalingredients.VegetableversionsarepopularinIndiaandmaybeservedontheirown,withnothingmorethanBoondiRaita.

60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2greenchillies1teaspoonwholemace5cloves5greencardamompods1teaspoonblackcuminseeds(shahzeera)1smallonion,sliced225g(8oz)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained150g(5½oz/1cup)dicedmixedseasonalvegetables,choosing4–6ofthefollowing:

½smalleggplant(aubergine)2Swissbrownorfieldmushrooms,cleaned2cauliflowerflorets1carrot,peeled40g(1½oz/¼cup)frozenpeas6greenbeans,trimmed1largepotato,peeled1tomato

60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt1tablespoonchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1tablespoonchoppedmintleaves½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoonsaffroninfusionunsaltedroastedcashewnutstogarnishsultanas(goldenraisins)togarnish

Heat thegheeoroil in a largeheavy-based saucepanover amediumheat.Stir in the chillies,mace,cloves,cardamompodsandblackcuminseedsandcookfor5seconds.Immediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Add the rice and stir until each grain is coatedwith themixture.Add themixed vegetables of yourchoiceandtheyoghurt,corianderandmintandstirtomixthrough.

Stirin625ml(21floz/2½cups)boilingwaterplusthesalt,thencoverandcookoverahighheatuntilitcomestoaboil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmergentlyforabout20minutes,oruntilthericeisalmostcooked.

Carefullypourthesaffroninfusioninoneplaceontopofthealmost-cookedricebutdonotstir.Coverandcontinuecookingforafurther15minutes,oruntilalltheliquidisabsorbedandthevegetablesaretender.

Ifyouwish,gentlystir thebiryani justbeforeserving–this isdonetoproducethetrademarkyellowandwhitegrainsofabiryani,butyoumustdo itverycarefully toavoidbreakingup the ricegrains.Garnishwiththecashewnutsandsultanasandserve.

GreenBeanThoranServes4

InthetemplesofSouthIndia,thetemplecookshavecreatedastyleofcookingthatpaysattentiontothephysicalandspiritualwellbeingoftheindividual.Thesecooksuseonlythebestingredients,whicharedonated to the temple by pilgrims. The food prepared is used as a sacrifice to the gods and is alsodistributedtothepilgrims,devoteesofthetempleandthepoor.Thisdishisoneofthesetemplerecipes.Inthisparticularversion,thetasteofcoconut,curryleavesandspicesaddsanotherdimensiontothesweetness of green beans. If desired, it can be served as a warm salad, accompanied by steamedbasmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,orPoorisorParathas.

1½tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1wholedriedredchilli¼teaspoonfenugreekseeds½teaspoonblackmustardseeds6curryleaves1teaspoongingerpaste350g(12½oz)greenbeans,trimmedanddiced½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste25g(1oz)desiccated(grateddried)coconutor40g(1½oz)freshlygratedcoconut

Heattheoilinalargewokorfryingpanoveramediumheat.Stirinthechilli,fenugreekseeds,blackmustardseedsandcurryleavesandcookuntilthemustardseedsstarttocrackle.Immediatelyaddthegingerpasteandbeansandsauté,stirring,forabout1minute.Stir in thesalt, thenreducetheheat tolow, cover and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender but notovercooked.

Stirinthecoconutandcookforafurther2minutes,thenserve.

VegetableKhichadiServes4

VegetablekhichadioriginatedasapeasantdishinancientIndia.Itcanbecookeddryorquitewet,withvegetables or even prawns (shrimp).Forme, this is the best comfort food, guaranteed to produce awarm fuzzy feeling. It is usually served for lunch, either with a spicy or sweet TomatoChutney orteamedwithadrymeatorvegetablecurry.

30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil3bayleaves1cm(½in)cinnamonstick3greencardamompods2blackcardamompods4cloves4blackpeppercorns1largeonion,sliced135g(5oz/⅔cup)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained100g(3½oz)splitdriedmungbeans(yellowmungdal)orsplitredlentils(masoordal),washed

anddrained250g(9oz)dicedmixedseasonalvegetables,choosing2–3ofthefollowing:

4smallcauliflowerflorets4smallnewpotatoes,scrubbed1sweetpotato,peeled12greenbeans,trimmed1carrot,peeled100g(3½oz)pumpkin(wintersquash),peeled

½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heatthegheeoroilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanwithatight-fittinglidoveramediumheat.Stirinthe bay leaves, cinnamon, green and black cardamom pods, cloves and peppercorns and cook for 5seconds.Immediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Addthericeanddriedmungbeansor lentils, themixedvegetablesofyourchoice,1 litre(34floz/4cups)boilingwaterandthesalt,andstirtomixthrough.Coverandbringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerforabout30–40minutes,oruntilthericeandlentilsarecooked.Servehot.

Note:Theconsistencyofkhichadimaybefairlymoist,likethisrecipe,oritmaybedry.Ifyoupreferadrierversion,reducetheamountofboilingwateryouaddwiththerice,driedbeansandvegetablesto625ml(21floz/2½cups).

MushroomandChickpeaPulaoServes4

There isalmost lessrice in thisdish–anotherMughal favourite– than thereareothergoodies.TheMughalslovedtheirdriedfruitandnutsandmissedthemterriblyuntiltheysucceededingrowingtheminIndia.Ofcourse,greenchillies,cashewnutsandtomatoeswereprobablyaddedtothisrecipelaterbyaninventivecook.Thiswonderfulcombinationisadishinitself.ServethispulaowithaRaitaandEggplantChutney.

60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2greenchillies1teaspoonwholemace7cloves7greencardamompods1teaspoonblackcuminseeds(shahzeera)1smallonion,sliced200g(7oz/1cup)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained4largemushrooms,cleanedanddiced1largetomato,diced60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt1tablespoonchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1tablespoonchoppedmintleaves100g(3½oz)driedchickpeas,cooked,or160g(5½oz)cannedchickpeas,rinsedanddrained(see

Note)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoonsaffroninfusionrawalmondstogarnishunsaltedroastedcashewnutstogarnishshelledpistachionutstogarnishsultanas(goldenraisins)togarnish

Heatthegheeoroilinashallowheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Stirinthechillies,mace,cloves,cardamompodsandblackcuminseedsandcookfor5seconds.Immediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Addthericeandstiruntileachgrainiscoatedwiththemixture.Addthemushroom,tomato,yoghurt,corianderandmintandstirtomixthrough.

Stirin375ml(12½floz/1½cups)boilingwater,thechickpeasandsalt.Coverandcookoverahighheat until it comes to a boil.Reduce the heat to as low as possible and simmer gently for about 20minutes,oruntilmostofthewaterisabsorbedandthericeisalmostcooked.

Pourinthesaffroninfusionandstirthrough,thencoverandcontinuecookingforafurther15minutes,untilalltheliquidisabsorbedandthevegetablesaretender.

Garnishwiththealmonds,cashewnuts,pistachionutsandsultanas,andserve.

Note: To cook the chickpeas, soak overnight in a large bowl of water. Drain, then put in a largesaucepanwithplentyoffreshwater.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattomediumandcookfor1–2hours,untiltender.Skimofftheresidueasitrisestothesurfaceduringthecookingprocess.Whencooked, drain the chickpeas and use according to the recipe. Alternatively, you can use cannedchickpeasinthisrecipe.Rinsewellincoldwateranddrainbeforeaddingthemtotherice.

CornTakatakServes4

Makingatakatakinvolvescookingathightemperaturesonahotplateorbarbecueplate,andbreakinguptheingredientswithametalspatula,thesoundofwhich–‘takatak’–givesitsnametothedish.Thismethod of cooking originated in North-West India and is also well known in Pakistan, wheremanydifferent ingredients, both vegetable andmeat, are used.Serve this corn and tomato dishwith freshIndianbread.

15g(½oz)ghee,or2teaspoonsvegetableorcanolaoiland10g(¼oz)saltedbutter

pinchofajwaiinseeds1tablespoonchoppedonion1teaspoonchoppedfreshginger250g(9oz/1cup)tomatopurée(puréedtomatoes)or

3tomatoes,skinandseedsremoved,puréed(seeNote)1tablespoontomatopaste(concentratedpurée)1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves½teaspoonchillipowder½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste200g(7oz/1cup)cornkernelscutfromthecob2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves

Heatthegheeoroilandbutterinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoronabarbecuehotplateoverahighheat.Addtheajwaiinseeds,thenimmediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringfrequently,forabout2minutes,oruntillightbrown.Stirinthegingerandsautéfor1minute.

Add the tomato purée, tomato paste, ground coriander, fenugreek leaves, chilli powder and salt andcookforabout1minute,stirringcontinuously.

Stir in thecorn,reducetheheat tolowandsimmerforabout5minutes,until tender.Scatterover thechoppedcorianderandservehot.

Note: If you are usingwhole tomatoes tomake the tomato purée, score a cross in the base of eachtomato.Put inaheatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leave for30seconds, then transfer tocoldwater.Whencoolenoughtohandle,peeltheskinaway,startingfromthecross.Cutthetomatoinhalf crosswise, scoop out the seedswith a teaspoonand discard.Process the tomato flesh in a foodprocessortoformapurée.

KumKumTamatarServes4

Withover60per cent of thepopulation classifiedas vegetarian in India, there is no endof excitingvegetarian recipes that are special dishes in themselves, and not just a substitute for meat. Aninnovative and delicious recipe for special occasions, kum kum tamatar is a unique dish, and verypopularattheSpiceKitchen.Oneofourguestsevencooksitinhiswood-firedovenandswearsbytheresultingsmoky flavoursof theeggplantand tomatocombination.Youcanserve thisdishon itsownwithNaanorPooris,oraspartofanIndianfeast.

1eggplant(aubergine)4largeor8mediumvine-ripenedorripetomatoes1tablespoonmustardoil1tablespoonfinelychoppedonion1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste1tablespoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli1tablespoonfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves½teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastecoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

RoginiSauce60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil½teaspoongingerpaste½teaspoongarlicpaste1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonturmeric½teaspoonchillipowder40g(1½oz/¼cup)rawcashewnuts1onion,sliced190ml(6½floz/¾cup)thick(double/heavy)cream2tablespoonstomatopaste(concentratedpurée)¼teaspoonsaffroninfusion3–4dropsofkewraessence(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tomaketheroginisauce,heatthegheeoroilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Sautéthegingerandgarlicpastesforabout30seconds.Addthegroundcoriander,turmeric,chillipowder,cashewnuts,onion,creamandtomatopastewith250ml(8½floz/1cup)water.Stirtocombineandheatthrough,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmergentlyfor20minutes.Allowthemixturetocoolalittle,thenpuréeinafoodprocessor.

Meanwhile, roast the eggplant in a heavy-based frying pan or chargrill pan over amedium heat, orunder thegrill (broiler), forabout20minutes,oruntilsoftand theskin ischarred.Turn theeggplantonlyonceortwiceduringcooking.Leaveuntilitiscoolenoughtohandle,thencuttheeggplantinhalf.Scoopoutthefleshwithaspoon,choproughlyandsetaside.Discardtheskin.

Cutthetopsoffthetomatoesanddiscard.Scoopoutthejuiceandfleshwithaspoon,leavingjustthehollowed-outshellsofthetomatoes.Reservethefleshandtheshellsseparately.

Heatthemustardoilinaseparatefryingpanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout3minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addthegingerandgarlicpastesandcook,stirring,for1minute.Addthechilli,choppedcoriander,turmeric,reservedeggplantandtomatofleshandsalt.Stirtomixwell,thencoverandcookfor5minutes.Removefromtheheat.

Using a spoon, fill the hollowed-out tomatoes with the tomato and eggplant mixture, pressing it infirmly.

Return the puréed rogini sauce to the frying pan and heat through over a low heat.Add the saffroninfusion,kewraessenceandsaltandstirthrough.

Carefullyputthestuffedtomatoesinthesauceandsimmergentlyoveralowheatforabout20minutes,untiltheyaresoft.

Garnishwithcorianderleavesandservehot.

Note:KewraessenceisextractedfromthekeoraflowerandisusedtoflavourrichMughalcurriesandricedishes.Theessenceisconcentratedandshouldbeusedsparingly.YoucanpurchaseitinAsianandIndiangrocerystores.

SweetPotatoandTurnipBhurtaServes4

Vegetable recipes in India are never boring. There are endless combinations of spices and cookingtechniques,whichvary fromregiontoregion.Eventhemeateatersmusthavetwoor threevegetabledishes as part of their meal. This recipe is a very satisfying comfort food that can be eaten withanything.Abhurtaisaroughmash,foundinthenorthandeastofIndia.Itdescribesaspecialhome-stylemethodofcookingvegetablessuchaspotatoes,eggplants(aubergines)andturnips.Servethisdishasanaccompanimenttomeatorfishdishesoraspartofavegetarianmeal.

2largesweetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces2turnips,peeledandcutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces1teaspoonvegetableorcanolaoil(optional)15g(½oz)gheeor1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil1driedwholeredchilli½teaspoonfenugreekseeds1smallonion,chopped2greenchillies,seedsremovedtoreduceheatifdesired,chopped2tomatoes,chopped2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Placethesweetpotatoandturnipinasaucepanofboilingsaltedwaterandcookfor10minutes,untiltender.Alternatively,putinaroastingtin,tosswiththe1teaspoonvegetableorcanolaoilandroastinanovenpreheatedto180°C(350°F)for20minutes,oruntiltender.Roughlymashthesweetpotatoandturnipandsetaside.

Heatthegheeoroilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Stirinthedriedredchilliandfenugreekseedsandcookfor5seconds.Immediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Add the sweet potato and turnipmash, green chilli, tomato, coriander, turmeric and salt.Stirwell tocombine,thenreducetheheattolowandcookgently,stirringfrequently,for5minutes.Servehot.

TomatoesFilledwithMushroomsandFigsServes4

When tomatoes are in season, this is a great dish to make for a dinner party. Indians love stuffedvegetable recipes for a vegetarian dish with a difference. We use eggplant (aubergine), capsicum(pepper), zucchini (courgette), potato, okra, bittermelon (bitter gourd), even between the stalks andflorets of broccoli, for filling with various ingredients, such as panir or cheddar cheese, sultanas(golden raisins), nuts, tamarind,dried fruit, coconutor evenmeat. Serve these stuffed tomatoeswithjustaboutanyoftheIndianbreads.

8ripetomatoes60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil1onion,chopped1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder2tablespoonsplainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste125ml(4floz/½cup)pouring(single/light)cream¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwholemace¼teaspoongroundcardamom

Filling1teaspoonvegetableorcanolaoil100–150g(3½–5½oz)mushrooms,cleanedandfinelychopped1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenchilli1teaspoonfinelychoppedginger125g(4½oz)freshfigsor50–75g(1¾–2¾oz)driedfigs,finelychopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Cut the tops off the tomatoes and discard. Scoop out the juice and flesh with a spoon, leaving thehollowed-outshellsofthetomatoes.Reservethefleshandtheshellsseparately.

Tomake the filling,heat theoil in amedium fryingpanor saucepanover amediumheat.Sauté themushrooms,chilliandginger,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes.Addthefigsandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout10minutesifusingfreshfigs,orfor6minutesifusingdriedfigs.

Usingaspoon,fillthehollowed-outtomatoeswiththefilling,pressingitinfirmly.Setaside.

Ina large fryingpan,heat theoilovera lowheat.Sauté theonion, stirringoccasionally, for about5minutes,oruntil goldenbrown.Stir in theginger andgarlicpastes andcook for2minutes.Add thecoriander, turmeric, chilli powder, reserved tomato flesh, yoghurt and salt and stir, then cook untilheated through. Stir in the cream and simmer for 2minutes.Combine themace and cardamom in asmallbowl,thenstirintothesauce.

Carefully place the stuffed tomatoes in the sauce and simmer gently over a low heat for about 20minutes,oruntiltheyaresoft.(Youcancoverthepanifyouwanttospeedupthecookingtime.)Servehot.

PumpkinwithPanchPhoronServes4

BengalistheonlyregioninIndiawherefoodistraditionallyservedinasuccessionofcourses.First,vegetablesareservedwithsteamedrice,followedbydal, fishandmeatcurries.ThisdishofpumpkinwithpanchphoronisatypicalBengalirecipe–asimplycookedvegetablewiththefivespicesfoundinpanchphoronhighlightingthevegetable’snaturalflavours.Servewithothercurriesandsteamedrice.

1tablespoonmustardoil1driedwholeredchilli1teaspoonpanchphoron500g(1lb2oz)pumpkin(wintersquash),suchasbutternut,japorkent,peeledanddiced½teaspoonsugar(optional)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heat themustard oil in a smallwok or frying pan over amedium heat. Stir in the chilli and panchphoronandcookuntilthepanchphoronstartstocrackle.

Immediatelystirinthepumpkin,sugar,ifusing,andsalt.Add125ml(4floz/½cup)water,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout30minutes,oruntilthepumpkinissoft.Servehot.

Karahi-styleBabySpinachandMushroomsServes4

Karahi-stylecookingisdoneoverahighheatforaveryshortperiodoftime.Theextremeheatleadstoitscharacteristicflavour.AkarahiisanIndianwokthatisslightlydeeperthanatraditionalAsianwokandmadeofa thickermetal, suchas cast iron. It isused for stir-frying,deep-fryingand simmering,covered, over a very low heat to preserve colour and flavour. Serve this karahi of spinach andmushroomswithNaan,BhaturasorParathas.

80g(2¾oz)gheeor80ml(3floz/⅓cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2tablespoonsgarlicpaste4tablespoonsbaltimasala5tomatoes,chopped3greenchillies,chopped2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshgingerlargehandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped180g(6½oz)largemushrooms,cleanedanddiced,orbuttonmushrooms,cleaned125g(4½oz)babyspinach,washedanddrained½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heatthegheeoroilinawokorlargefryingpanoverahighheat.Stir-frythegarlicpastefor2minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addthebaltimasalaandstir-fryfor1minute.

Stirinthetomatoandcookuntilitstartstobubble.Addthechilli,three-quartersofthegingerandone-thirdofthecorianderleaves,stirtomixwellandsimmerfor5minutes.

Stirinthemushroomsandbabyspinachandcookforabout3minutes,oruntiltender.Seasonwiththesalttotasteandstirwell.

Garnishwiththeremaininggingerandcorianderleavesandservehot.

MixedVegetableNavratanCurryServes4

ThisdishtakesitsnamefromtheninefamouswisemenofAkbar’sMughalcourtinfourteenth-centuryAgra. Navratan literally means ‘nine gems’, and many dishes, which usually comprised nineingredients,werenamedaftertheseninewisecourtiers.Thisrecipeisaneasy,everydayvegetablecurrywithgreat flavoursand textures,usingbothrootandgreenvegetables.Serve itasavegetarianmaincourseoraspartofanIndianmealwithPulaoRiceorfreshPooris,ParathasorChapattis.

1tablespoongroundcumin1tablespoongroundcoriander1teaspoonturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1smallpotato,peeledanddiced½smallsweetpotato,peeledanddiced1smallcarrot,peeledanddiced1smallturnip,peeledanddiced150g(5½oz)pumpkin(wintersquash),peeledanddiced2cauliflowerflorets,eachcutlengthwiseinto8pieces100g(3½oz)shreddedcabbage6greenbeans,trimmedanddiced40g(1½oz/¼cup)shelledfreshorfrozenpeas125g(4½oz/½cup)tomatopaste(concentratedpurée)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastecoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Mixthegroundcuminandcoriander, turmericandchillipowder togetherwith60ml(2 floz/¼cup)waterinasmallbowltomakeapaste.

Heattheoilinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Stirinthespicepasteandcookfor5–10seconds.

Addthepotato,sweetpotato,carrotandturnipwith375ml(12½floz/1½cups)water,andstirtomixthrough.Coverandcookoveramediumheatfor25minutes,oruntilthevegetablesarethree-quarterscooked.

Addthepumpkin,cauliflower,cabbage,beans,peasandtomatopaste,andstirtomixthrough.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforafurther15minutes.Addsalttotastejustbeforeserving.

Garnishwiththecorianderleavesandservehot.

Note:Thetotalamountofvegetablesusedinthisrecipeshouldcometoabout300g(10½oz/2cups),onceyou’vedoneallthepeeling,dicing,andshredding.

VegetableChakkaServes4

A Bengali favourite with slightly sweet overtones, this simple dish uses six different vegetables thatcomplement each other in taste and texture. ‘Chakka’means six ingredients tossed together quickly.Makesurethevegetablesareintheirprime,preferablyorganicandinseason,asinthisrecipethereisnowhereforthemtohide.Thewholespicesaccentuatethepurefreshflavoursofthevegetables.Servewithsteamedrice.

1½tablespoonsmustardoil1teaspoonpanchphoron2driedwholeredchillies2bayleaves2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick2cloves1teaspoongingerpaste1smalleggplant(aubergine),cutinto2.5cm(1in)pieces200g(7oz)pumpkin(wintersquash),peeledandcutinto2.5cm(1in)pieces1sweetpotato,peeledandcutinto2.5cm(1in)pieces1zucchini(courgette),thicklysliced4cauliflowerflorets,eachcutlengthwiseinto4pieces12greenbeans,trimmedandslicedinto2.5cm(1in)lengths1teaspoonsugar1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heat themustardoil inawokor large fryingpanoveramediumheat.Stir in thepanchphoronandchillies and cook until themixture crackles. Immediately add the bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves andgingerpasteandcook,stirringcontinuously,for1minute.

Addtheeggplant,pumpkin,sweetpotato,zucchini,cauliflower,beans,sugar,turmericandsalt.Stirtomixwell,thencoverwithatight-fittinglidandcookoverthelowestheatpossibleforabout30minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretender.Onlytakethelidofftocheckandstironceduringthecookingtime.(Thisdishobtainsthebesttastewhenthevegetablescookintheirownsteam,withouttheadditionofwater.Thiscanonlybeachievedwhenthelowestpossibleheatisusedandwhenthelidisnotopenedmorethanonceduringcooking.)Servehot.

Note:All thevegetablesshouldbecut tothesamesizeasmuchaspossible.Thepreparedvegetablesshouldcometoabout600g(1lb5oz)intotalbeforecooking.

SpinachwithPanirCheeseServes4

OnofferinalmosteveryIndianrestaurant,thisNorthIndiancombinationofspinachandpanircheeseis easy tomakeat home. If youhavenevermadepanir cheesebefore, dohaveagoand savour thefeelingofaccomplishment–andthetaste–yougetfrommakingyourfirstcheese.Englishspinachwillgivethebestflavourandtexturetothisdish,butyoucanusesilverbeet(Swisschard)ifnecessary.ServehotwithNaan,ParathasorChapattis.

1teaspoonvegetableorcanolaoil1smallonion,chopped1teaspoonchoppedfreshginger1teaspoonchoppedgarlic1greenchilli,chopped1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonturmeric240g(8½oz)Englishspinach,washed,drainedandchopped1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves250g(9oz)panircheese,diced

Heattheoilinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout5–7minutes,oruntillightbrown.

Stir in the ginger, garlic and chilli and cook for 1minute.Add the coriander, turmeric, spinach andfenugreekleavesandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout2minutes,oruntilthespinachisjustdone.

Removefromtheheatandallowtocool,thenprocessinafoodprocessortoformapurée.

Returnthepuréedspinachmixturetothepan.Addthepanircheeseandstirthroughthespinach.Heatgentlyoveralowheatuntilhot,thenserve.

EggandPotatoCurryServes4

I loveeggsinanyformandthiswholeeggrecipeneverfails todeliver.Therearealwaystimeswhenthereisnomeatorfishathome,lunchordinnerhastobeonthetablein30minutes,or‘friendsfordrinks’ become ‘friends staying on for dinner’! There is no need to panic because that wonderfulversatileanddeliciousingredient,theegg,isathand.ServethiscurrywithsteamedriceandChapattisorParathas.

60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil8hard-boiledeggs,peeled4greencardamompods4cloves1largeonion,chopped1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonturmeric1tablespoongroundcoriander1tablespoongroundcumin1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste2tomatoes,chopped,or60g(2oz/¼cup)tomatopaste(concentratedpurée)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste8smallnewpotatoes,scrubbedcleanandhalvedchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Heattheoilinalargesaucepanoverahighheat.Sautéthehard-boiledeggs,stirringcontinuously,forabout4minutes,oruntiltheyformagoldenskinontheoutside.Removetheeggsfromthesaucepanandsetaside.

Inthesamesaucepan,stirinthecardamompodsandclovesandcookoveramediumheatfor5seconds.Immediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout7minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Meanwhile,mixthechillipowder,turmeric,groundcorianderandcumintogetherwith60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterinasmallbowltomakeapaste.

Addthegingerandgarlicpastestotheonioninthesaucepanandcook,stirring,forabout1minute.Addthespicepasteandcook,stirring,forabout1minute,oruntiltheoilseparatesfromthespices.Addthechoppedtomatoortomatopastewith250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterandstirtomixthrough.Stirinthesaltandpotatoes.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor25minutes,oruntilthepotatoesarethree-quarterscooked.

Addthereservedeggswith60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterandstirthroughcarefully.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforafurther7minutes.

Garnishwiththechoppedcorianderandservehot.

GreenPeaswithGingerandLemonServes4

Asachild,I lovedhelpingmyextendedfamilyshell thepeastomakethissimple, freshanddeliciousrecipe.ManywinterafternoonsinDelhiwerespentsittinginthewarmthofthesunwithahugestackoffreshpeas,discussingthereallyimportantissuesoflife,suchaswhatshouldaccompanythegreenpeasatdinner!Todojusticetothedelicateflavoursofthisdish,youshouldreallyusefreshpeas.Youcanuse frozen peas, but the results will not be as good.Also, eat it on its own so you can taste everyelement.

310g(11oz)shelledfreshorfrozenpeas15g(½oz)gheeorsaltedbutter1greenchilli1teaspoongingerpaste½teaspoonsugar1tablespoonlemonjuice½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Cookthepeasinalargesaucepanofboilingsaltedwateroverahighheatfor2–3minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drainandrinseundercoldwater.

Heat the ghee or butter in a large frying pan over amediumheat. Sauté the chilli and ginger paste,stirringcontinuously,forabout30seconds.Stirinthepeasandsugarandcook,stirringoccasionally,for2–4minutes,oruntilheatedthroughandthesugarhasdissolved.

Quicklytossthelemonjuiceandsaltthroughthepeas,thenserve.

SmokyEggplantBhurtaServes4

In this North Indian delicacy, roasted eggplant (aubergine) is the star. There are many varieties ofeggplant,butthisrecipeisbestmadewiththemedium-sizedroundorlongpurplevarieties.Forthebestflavourandtexture,buyeggplantswhentheyareinseasonandoptforthesmaller,seedlessonesthatfeelheavyfortheirsize.Enjoythisdishhot,withChapattisorParathas.

2eggplants(aubergines)1½tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1smallonion,chopped1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste2largetomatoes,chopped2greenchillies,chopped½teaspoonturmericlargehandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Roasttheeggplantswholeinaheavy-basedfryingpanorchargrillpanoveramediumheat,orunderthegrill(broiler),forabout20minutes,oruntilsoftandtheskinischarred.Turnonlyonceortwiceduringcooking.Allowtocool, thencut inhalf.Scoopout thefleshwithaspoon,choproughlyandreserve.Discardtheskin.

Heattheoilinafryingpanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,for5minutes,untiltranslucent.Addthegingerandgarlicpastesandcook,stirring,forabout1minute.

Stirinthetomato,chilliandturmeric,reducetheheattolowandcookforabout5minutes,oruntilthetomatohassoftened.

Stirinthereservedeggplantflesh,corianderandsaltandcookforafurther5minutes.Servehot.

OkraDoPyazServes4

Okra,orlady’sfingersastheyareknowninIndia,isasummervegetable,besteatenwheninseason,andafavouritevegetableofmine.Useonlyyoungokraandcookthemuncoveredtoacheiveacrisp–asopposedtoaslimy–texture.WhilefrozenokraisavailablefromIndianandMiddleEasterngrocerystores, it lacksthecrisptextureandflavourof freshokra.Inthisdishtheokraiscookedwithtomatoandonion–dopyazmeans‘doubleonion’.Serveitasanaccompanimenttoamainmeal.

2tablespooonsvegetableorcanolaoil1teaspooncuminseeds1driedwholeredchilli1onion,sliced250g(9oz)small,youngokra2tomatoes,cutintowedges½teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heattheoilinalargewokorfryingpanoveramediumheat.Stirinthecuminseedsandchilliandcookuntil thecumin seeds start tocrackle. Immediatelyadd theonionand sauté, stirringoccasionally, forabout5minutes,oruntiltranslucent.

Addtheokra,tomatoandturmeric,stirtomixthrough,thencookuncoveredfor15minutes,oruntiltheokraissoft.

Addthesaltandcookforafurther2–3minutes.(Itisimportanttoaddthesaltlast;otherwisetheokrahasatendencytobecomeslimy.)Servehot.

SEAFOOD

Tomany people, Indian food is not normally associatedwith seafood, as themost popular exporteddishesusuallycontainchickenorlamb.However,theIndiansubcontinentisborderedbyseaonthreesides:theArabianSeatothewest,theIndianOceantothesouthandtheBayofBengaltotheeast,andallarefullofdelectablelocalfish.

Moreover,thereisanentireintricatenetworkofmajorriversrunningacrossthelengthandbreadthofthecountrysupplyingtownsandvillageswithfreshwaterseafood.ThefamousGangesRiveroriginatesintheHimalayasandflowsdownthroughIndia,joinedbymanytributaries,allfullofexoticriverfishsuchas trout, elish (local salmon)bhetki (similar tobarramundi),pomfret and themuch-loved ruiorrohu(similartotrevally).Thesefish,alongwithcoastalshellfish,supplyIndiawithadiverserepertoireofseafoodrecipes thatcanrangefromfriedorbarbecuedfish,suchasTandooriFishTikkas,cookedshellfish,suchasCrabMalabarorScampiKeralaCurry,tosimplefishcurries,suchasBengalTomatoFishJhal.

Inmany parts of India no ceremonialmeal would be complete without seafood, and some of thesedishesfeatureinthischapter.YoucanservetheserecipesontheirownoraspartofalargerIndianfeast.Theyareeasytoprepareandfilledwithdelicateflavours.

BengalTomatoFishJhalServes4

Ifyoucookonlyonefishrecipefromthisbook,thisshouldbetheone–adelicious,tomatoey,hotfishcurrywiththeboldflavoursofpanchphoron.Oncetasted,youwillbeimmediatelytransportedtothesightsandsmellsofIndia.Servethisdishwithsteamedbasmatirice.

1kg(2lb3oz)firmwhitefishfillets,suchassnapper,mulloway,ling,codorkingfish,cutinto5cm(2in)pieces

2teaspoonsturmeric1–2teaspoonssalt,ortotaste100ml(3½floz)vegetableorcanolaoil2driedwholeredchillies1teaspoonpanchphoron1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste½teaspoonchillipowder2greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact2tablespoonstomatopaste(concentratedpurée)1tomato,choppedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Putthefishinalargebowl.Sprinklewith1teaspoonoftheturmericand½–1teaspoonofthesaltandtosstogetheruntilthefishpiecesarewellcoated.

Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Frythefishpiecesforabout1minuteoneachsidejusttosealthem–donotcookthrough.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.

In the same oil, add the dried red chillies and panch phoron and cook until the mixture crackles.Immediately add the ginger and garlic pastes, the remaining turmeric, the chilli powder and greenchilliesandstir-fryfor1minute.Stirinthetomatopaste,choppedtomatoandremainingsaltifdesired,andcookfor2minutes.

Stir in125ml(4floz/½cup)waterandbring themixture toaboil, thenreduce theheat to lowandsimmerfor10minutes.

Returnthefishtothepan,stirgentlythroughthesauceandthencookforafurther5minutes.

Garnishwiththecorianderandservehot.

‘DoiMaach’–FishYoghurtCurryServes4

Bengalisfamousforitsfishandseafoodrecipes.InfactinBengal,Brahmins–thepriestlyclass,whoarenormallyvegetarian–areallowedtoeatseafoodasitisclassifiedasa‘vegetableofthesea’!Doimaachmeans‘yoghurtfish’.Wholesmallfishorfilletscanallbeusedandnopartofthefishiswasted– fish heads are a delicacy. This recipe is my daughter’s favourite – minimum effort, maximumimpression.Serveitwithsteamedbasmatirice.

1kg(2lb3oz)fishfillets,suchassnapper,mullet,bream,perch,kingfish,barramundi,lingorcod,skinlefton,cutinto7.5cm(3in)pieces

3teaspoonsturmeric1½–2teaspoonssalt,ortotaste150ml(5floz)mustardoilorothervegetableoil1largeonion,chopped2teaspoonsgingerpaste2teaspoonsgarlicpaste1teaspoonchillipowder2teaspoonssugar125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt30g(1oz/¼cup)sultanas(goldenraisins)4greencardamompods,roastedandground(seeNote)5cloves,roastedandground(seeNote)1cm(½in)cinnamonstick,roastedandground(seeNote)

Putthefishinalargebowl.Sprinklewith1½teaspoonsoftheturmericand1teaspoonofthesaltandtosstogetheruntilthefishpiecesarewellcoated.

Heattheoilinawokorlargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Ifyouareusingmustardoil,heatituntilitissmoking.Cookthefishfor2minutesoneachside.Removefromthewokandsetaside.

Inthesameoil,sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout4minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Addthegingerandgarlicpastes, theremainingturmericandsalt,andchillipowder.Cook,stirring,overamediumheatfor2minutes.Addthesugarandcontinuestirringuntilitdissolves.

Stirintheyoghurtandsultanas.Theresultingsauceshouldhavetheconsistencyofathicksoup.Addup to 125ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water if necessary to obtain this consistency. (Some yoghurts have arunnierconsistencythanothers.)Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerfor15minutes.

Return the fish to the wok, stir gently through the sauce and then sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of thecombinedcardamom,cloveandcinnamonspicemix.Simmerforafurther10minutes.Servehot.

Note: Roast and grind the cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon together.This should give you 2teaspoonsofroastedandgroundspicemix.

TandooriFishTikkasServes4

Barbecuedorgrilled(broiled)dishesformamajorpartofIndiancookingandusethetandoororsigri(acharcoalfire).Athome,abarbecuewillhelpyouobtainthetraditionalsmokyflavour,oryoucanuseachargrillpanoraconventionaloven.Thismethodofcookingisespeciallysuitedtofishandisfast,healthy and easy. Just be careful not to overcook the fish as it can become dry, leathery andunappetising if cooked for too long. Serve this dish with GreenChutney, lemon wedges and OnionSalad.

800g(1lb12oz)firmfishfillets,suchassnapper,kingfish,oceantrout,salmon,mulloway,barramundi,tuna,lingorcod,cutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces

lemonwedgestogarnish

Marinade250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt1tablespoonmustardoil1tablespoonlimeorlemonjuice1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoonajwaiinseeds1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonsbesan(chickpeaflour)1egg,beaten

Tomakethemarinade,puttheyoghurtinthemiddleofacleansquareofmuslin(cheesecloth)restingina bowl or container. Bring the corners in to meet at the centre and tie in a knot. Hang the bundlecontainingtheyoghurtfromahook,placethecontainerunderneathtocatchthewheyandexcessliquid,andleavetodrainfor2hours.Inwarmerweather,hangthebundleintherefrigerator.

Whentheyoghurthasdrained,continuemakingthemarinade.Transfertheyoghurttoalargebowl.Mixtogether with themustard oil, lime or lemon juice, ginger and garlic pastes, garammasala, ajwaiinseeds,chillipowder,turmeric,salt,besanandegg.

Add the fish pieces to the marinade and stir to coat well, then cover and put in the refrigerator tomarinateforupto20minutes–donotleaveitforlonger,asthefishwillstartto‘cook’intheacidityofthelimeorlemonjuice.

Meanwhile,preheatthebarbecue,grill(broiler)orchargrillpantomedium–hot.Alternatively,preheattheovento200°C(400°F).

Threadthefishpiecesontometalskewers.

Ifusingagrilloroven,arrangetheskewersonabakingtray.Cookunder thegrillor in theovenforabout 5–7minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through, turning once. Alternatively, arrange theskewersonthebarbecueorchargrillpanandcookforabout5–7minutes,oruntilcooked,turningonce.

Garnishwiththelemonwedgesandservehot.

Twice-CookedFishJhalferazieServes4

Kolkata (Calcutta) took centre stage in the establishment of British power in India. Alongside theintroductionofbureaucraticsystems,Westernliteratureandmusic,aninterestingmixofAnglo-Indianfooddeveloped.ThecolonialBritishcameupwithauniquedishcalledthe‘jhalferazie’–jhalmeans‘hot’ and ferazie apparently refers to a ‘fry up’. Usually cooked with left-over roast meat, this fishversionismyowntwistontherecipe.Itisperfectwithsteamedbasmatirice.

800g(1lb12oz)firmwhitefishfillets,suchassnapper,morwong(deepseabream),perch,mulloway,ling,codorothermeatyfish,cutinto1x3cm(½x1¼in)pieces

100ml(3½floz)vegetableorcanolaoilforshallow-frying

Marinade1teaspoonchoppedfreshginger1teaspoonchoppedgarlic1tablespoonchoppedonion1teaspoonchillipowder2greenchillies1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastesmallhandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped1tablespoonwhitevinegar1tablespoonbesan(chickpeaflour)

JhalferazieSauce1tablespoonmustardoil1greenchilli,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,seedsleftin½teaspooncuminseeds1onion,sliced125g(4½oz/½cup)tomatopurée(puréedtomatoes)or2tomatoes,skinandseedsremoved,

puréed(seeNote)½greencapsicum(pepper),sliced½redcapsicum(pepper),sliced1teaspoonfinelyshreddedfreshginger½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

To make the marinade, put the ginger, garlic, onion, chilli powder, green chillies, turmeric, salt,corianderandvinegarinafoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth.

Putthefishinalargebowl,addthemarinadeandstirtocoatthefishthoroughly.Stirinthebesan,then

coverandputintherefrigeratortomarinatefor20minutes.

Heatthevegetableoilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Shallow-frythefishforabout3minutesoneachsideoruntilcooked.Thiswilldependonthetypeandthicknessofthefish.Oncethefishflakeseasilywhenpressed,itisready.Removefromthepan,drainonkitchentowelsandsetaside.

Tomakethejhalferaziesauce,heatthemustardoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Whentheoilis smoking, stir in thegreen chilli and cumin seeds, then immediately add theonion and sauté for 3minutes,stirringoccasionally.Stirinthetomatopurée,greenandredcapsicum,ginger,saltand125ml(4floz/½cup)water.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor5minutes.Addthefriedfishandcarefullystirthroughthesauceuntilheatedthrough,thenservehot.

Note: If you are usingwhole tomatoes tomake the tomato purée, score a cross in the base of eachtomato.Put inaheatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leave for30seconds, then transfer tocoldwater.Whencoolenoughtohandle,peeltheskinaway,startingfromthecross.Cutthetomatoinhalf,scoopouttheseedswithateaspoonanddiscard.Processthetomatofleshinafoodprocessortoformapurée.

BengalFishCharchoriServes4

InBengal, therearealmostasmany fishrecipesas thereare fisheaters (andalmosteveryone in thestate eats fish). In my restaurant, this dish was one of the early favourites, a signature recipe thatdistinguishedtheSpiceKitchenfromtheubiquitous‘fisheveryway’servedinotherIndianrestaurants.Charchorihascometorefertoacookingmethodwherevariousingredientsarecookedtogetheruntileachingredientisalmostindistinguishableandthedishtakesonauniqueflavour–muchmorethanthetasteofitsmanyparts.

750g(1lb11oz)firmwhitefishfillets,suchassnapper,mulloway,morwong(deepseabream),mullet,lingorcod,cutinto7.5cm(3in)pieces

2teaspoonsturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonsmustardoil1teaspoonpanchphoron1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste1largeonion,sliced2greenchillies8smallcauliflowerflorets1smallredcapsicum(pepper),slicedlengthwise1smallgreencapsicum(pepper),slicedlengthwise1smallyellowcapsicum(pepper),slicedlengthwisecoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Put the fish in a large bowl. Sprinklewith 1 teaspoon of the turmeric and the salt to taste, and tosstogetheruntilthefishpiecesarewellcoated.

Heatthemustardoilinawokorlargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Whentheoilissmoking,addthepanchphoron,thenimmediatelystirinthegingerandgarlicpastes,onionandchillies.Immediatelyaddthefish,cauliflower,red,greenandyellowcapsicumandremainingturmeric,andgentlystirtocoat.

Coverthewok,reducetheheattoaslowaspossibleandcookforabout15minutes,oruntilthefishandvegetables are just cooked– the timingwill dependon the type and thicknessof the fish.Resist thetemptationtoopenthelidandstirthemixture,asthiswillbreakupthevegetablesandfish.

Garnishwiththecorianderandservehot.

PrawnRaitaServes4

Ifyouthinkraitaisjustacoolingsalad,thenthinkagain.Icertainlyhadtowhenacousinsentmeanintriguingmenu that she recently served on an important birthday inKolkata (Calcutta).Forget thehumblecucumber, tryaddingfreshprawns(shrimp) instead.Thisrecipeworks justaswellwith freshoysters,mussels,crabmeator,mypersonalfavourite,fabulouslysweetrocklobster(crayfish).Makeasummermealwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainriceandaleafygreensalad.

2tablespoonsmustardoil2greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact½teaspoonpanchphoron250g(9oz)tigerormediumrawprawns(shrimp),shelledanddeveined1teaspoonblackmustardseeds,crushed½teaspoonyellowmustardseeds,crushed½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt½teaspoonsugar

Heatthemustardoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Waituntiltheoilstartstosmoke(thisgetsridofthepungentmustardflavourandreleasesasweetertaste),thenreducetheheattomedium.Stirinthegreenchilliesandpanchphoronandcookuntilthemixturecrackles.Immediatelyaddtheprawns,blackandyellowmustardseedsandsaltandstirtomixthrough.

Cookoveramediumheat forabout3minutes,oruntil theprawnsare translucent.Removefromtheheat,placethemixtureinaheatproofbowlandleavetocoolintherefrigerator.

When the prawns are cool, mix together the yoghurt and sugar in a serving bowl until the sugardissolves.Addtheprawns,stirtomixthroughandservecold.

PrawnswithVegetablesandPanchPhoronServes4

Someofthebestrecipesareneverpreparedinrestaurants.Thisquick,healthy,easyandcolourfuldishfromBengalisadeliciousexample.Userawprawns(shrimp)ofanysize.Oftensmallerprawnshaveasweeter flavour,sodon’tbeputoffby thesizeandby thinkingthatbigger isbetter.Traditionally, themiddlesectionoftheprawnshellisremovedfordeveining,buttheheadandtailareleftonforaddedflavour and crunch. The prawns are combined with a colourful medley of seasonal vegetables andservedwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice.

1tablespoonmustardorothervegetableoil2greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact1teaspoonpanchphoron1largeonion,sliced500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),washedthoroughly,shelledanddeveined,headsandtails

leftintact,ifdesired1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2cauliflowerflorets,thinlysliced100g(3½oz)pumpkin(wintersquash),suchasbutternut,japorkent,peeledanddiced1zucchini(courgette),diced65g(2¼oz)frozenpeas50g(1¾oz)babyspinachleaves6greenbeans,trimmed¼red,greenoryellowcapsicum(pepper),thinlyslicedlengthwise100g(3½oz)finelyshreddedwhitecabbagelimewedgestoserve

Heattheoilinawokorlargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Ifyouareusingmustardoil,waituntilitissmoking(thisgetsridofthepungentmustardflavourandreleasesasweetertaste).Stirinthegreenchillies and panch phoron and cook until themixture crackles. Immediately add the onion, prawns,gingerandgarlicpastes,turmericandsalt,increasetheheattohighandstir-fryfor2minutes.

Add the cauliflower, pumpkin, zucchini, peas, spinach, beans, capsicumand cabbage and stir tomixthrough.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookuntiltheprawnsaretranslucentandfirmtothebite–about5minutesforsmallprawns,6minutesformediumprawnsand7minutesforlargeprawns.Servehot,withlimewedgesonthesideforsqueezingover.

CoconutandCorianderFishBakedinBananaLeavesServes4

AfavouritefromwesternIndiaandamustataParseewedding.ThisdeliciousrecipeisoneofthemostpopulardishesontheSpiceKitchenmenu.Itisespeciallylovedbythosewhodonotliketheirfishinacurry.Youcanserveitwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainriceoraleafygreensalad.

4×200g(7oz)thickfirmfishfillets,suchassnapper,mullet,mulloway,kingfish,barramundi,bream,perch,salmon,ling,codorothermeatyfish

4piecesofbananaleaf(eachabouttwicethesizeofthefishfillet),washed(seeNote)100ml(3½floz)whitevinegar2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoillimecheekstoserve

CoconutandCorianderPaste½teaspoongingerpaste½teaspoongarlicpaste45g(1½oz/½cup)desiccated(grateddried)coconut2greenchillies1teaspoongroundcuminjuiceof1lemon½cupcoriander(cilantro)leaves½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).

Tomakethecoconutandcorianderpaste,blendthegingerandgarlicpastes,coconut,chillies,cumin,lemonjuice,corianderandsaltinafoodprocessoruntilitformsasmoothpaste.

Coatthefishfilletsthoroughlywiththepaste.Puteachfilletinthemiddleofapieceofbananaleafandwrapitup:foldintheendclosesttoyoufirst,thenthesides,thenfoldoverthetop.

Mixtogetherthevinegarandoilinashallowbakingdish,thencarefullyputthefishparcels,foldedsidedown,inthedish.

Cookintheovenforabout15minutes.Carefullyunwraptheparceltocheckthatthefishisready–itshouldbejustcookedandmoist,andflakeeasilywhenpressed.Servehot,withthelimecheeksonthesideforsqueezingover.

Note:Ifbananaleavesarenotavailable,youcouldtrylotusleavesforadifferentflavour,orsimplyuse

bakingpaper.

BakedMustardFishServes4

Thegood folkofBengalhaveareputation forarguingabouteverything,and food isnoexception.Aunanimousdecisiononthebestfishcurrycouldneverbemade,althoughbakedmustardfishwouldbeastrong contender. In fact, this is a Bengal recipe with a cult following, although it does have fairlystrongflavoursandplentyofheat,andofcourse,youhavetolikemustard.Ifyoutickallthoseboxes,thereisnobetterfishrecipe.Itisusuallybaked,butcanalsobesteamed.Serveitwithsteamedbasmatirice.

1kg(2lb3oz)firmwhitefishfillets,suchassnapper,morwong(deepseabream),perch,kingfish,lingorcod,orsmallwholefish,suchasgarfish,tommyruff,sardinesormackerel

MustardPaste½teaspoonturmeric1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds,coarselycrushed1tablespoonblackmustardseeds,coarselycrushed1teaspoonhotEnglishmustard2tablespoonsmustardoil1tablespoonplainyoghurt4greenchillies½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Ifbakingthefishintheoven,preheattheovento170°C(340°).

Tomake themustard paste,mix together the turmeric, yellow and blackmustard seeds, hot Englishmustard,mustardoil,yoghurt,chilliesandsaltinalargebowl.

Addthefishtothebowlandstirtocoatthoroughlywiththemustardpaste.

Putthefishwiththepasteinashallowbakingdishwithalid.Covertightlyandcookintheovenforabout20minutesforfillets,and30minutesforsmallwholefish.Thefishshouldbejustcooked–thefleshshouldflakeeasilyandbeverysoftandmoist.Servehot.

Alternatively,putthefishwiththepasteinashallowheatproofdishorbowl.Carefullyputthedishorbowlinametalorbamboosteamer.Placeinasaucepanorwokofwatersimmeringoveralowheat,makingsurethatthewaterlevelisbelowthefish.Coverandsteamoveralowheatfor25minutesforfillets,and30minutesforsmallwholefish.Checkthesimmeringwaterduringcookingandaddmoreasitevaporates,butmakesurethewaterlevelisalwaysbelowthefish.

Carefullyremovethefishfromthesteamerandservehot.

PrawnMasalaServes4

ThissimpleNorthIndianprawn(shrimp)dishisdeliciouslydifferentfromthecoconutcurriesofSouthandWestIndia,andisverypopularinrestaurantsbecauseitisquiteeasytomakeanditdoesnotneedalotofspices.Thetomato–capsicum(–pepper)combinationisdelectableandappealstoawiderangeoftastebuds.Servewithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainriceandNaan.

1kg(2lb3oz)mediumorlargerawprawns(shrimp),shelledanddeveined1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1onion,sliced1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste2greenchillies1tablespoongroundcoriander1teaspoonchillipowder6tomatoes,diced,or1.5x400g(14oz)cansdicedtomatoes,drained2yellow,redorgreencapsicums(peppers),dicedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Put the prawns in a large bowl. Sprinkle over the turmeric and salt and toss to thoroughly coat theprawns.Setaside.

Heat theoil ina large fryingpan.Sauté theonionoveramediumheat, stirringoccasionally, for6–8minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandthegreenchillies,andcookfor2minutes.

Addthegroundcorianderandchillipowderandcook,stirring,forabout1minute,oruntil thespicesreleasetheiraroma.Addthetomatoandcapsicumandcookoveramediumheat,stirringoccasionally,forabout4minutes,oruntilthetomatohassoftened.

Addthereservedprawnsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheprawnsaretranslucentandfirmtothebite–about5minutesformediumprawnsand7minutesforlargeprawns.

Garnishwiththecorianderleavesandservehot.

ScampiKeralaCurryServes4

Forme,thisrecipeconjuresupimagesofricebargesfloatingalongthebackwatersofKerala,whichareteemingwithfreshscampi.Boatmencatchthescampiwithnetsandmakethisdeliciouscurryforeveryoneonboard.Thearomasofthisdishalwaystransportmetosuchaparadise.Servethisdishwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice,orforsomethingreallyspecial,theredshort-grainricefromKerala.

100ml(3½floz)coconutoil(seeNotes)orothervegetableoil½teaspoonfenugreekseeds6garliccloves,crushed8springonions(scallions),sliced2x3cm(1¼in)piecesfreshginger,julienned4greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact20curryleaves20g(¾oz)kokum,soakedandchopped(seeNotes),or2tablespoonstamarindpulp½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste800g(1lb12oz)freshscampi200ml(7floz)freshcoconutmilkorcannedcoconutmilk

Paste1tablespoonchillipowder½tablespoongroundcoriander½teaspoonturmeric½teaspoongingerpaste½teaspoongarlicpaste

Tomakethepaste,mixthechillipowder,coriander,turmericandgingerandgarlicpastestogetherwith1–2tablespoonswaterinasmallbowluntilitformsapaste.Setaside.

Heat theoil ina large saucepanoveramediumheat.Cook the fenugreekseeds forabout5 seconds,untiltheybecomelightbrown.Immediatelystirinthecrushedgarlicandcookforabout30seconds,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Addthepasteandsauté,stirringcontinuously,forafurther2–3minutes.Addthespringonion,ginger,green chillies, curry leaves, kokumor tamarind, salt and 250ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup)water. Stir tomixtogether,thenbringtoaboil.

Addthescampi,coverandcookoveramediumheatforabout8minutes,oruntilthesaucethickens.

Stirinthecoconutmilk,reducetheheattolowandcookuncoveredforafurther2minutes.Servehot.

Notes:Ifusingcoconutoil,makesureitisfresh.Likeoliveoil,coconutoilcanbecomerancidifitisnot

storedproperlyorifitisold.Freshcoconutoilhasalovelysweetflavourbutitcanabsolutelyspoiladishifitisstale.

Kokum is thedried rindof the fruit of the kokum tree. It is found in IndianorAsiangrocery stores.Makesurethatitissoftandpliable,andonlybuyasmallquantityasittendstodryupifkeptfortoolong.

CrabMalabarServes4

Contrarytocommonperception,therearehundredsofseafoodrecipesinIndia.Fried,grilled(broiled),poachedinoil,poachedinwater,steamed,curried,wrappedinbananaleaves–fromKashmir,Bengal,Maharashtra,GoaandKerala,youaresure to findarecipe togetyousalivating.ThisrecipecomesfromtheMalabarCoast,whichaboundswithseafood.Youcanuseblueswimmercrabs,mudcrabsorspannercrabs.Servewithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice.

4freshcrabs(bigenoughtoserve1perperson)2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1smallonion,sliced3greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact45g(1½oz/½cup)desiccated(grateddried)coconutor60g(2oz)freshlygratedcoconut1largeonion,puréedinafoodprocessoruntilsmooth,orfinelygrated1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste2tablespoonsgroundcoriander1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonturmeric3tomatoes,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Ifyouareusinglivecrabs(whichgive thebest results),desensitise themfirstbyplacingthemin thefreezerfor20minutes.

Removefromthefreezerandseparatethehardshellfromthebody.Removethegrey,crunchy,finger-likebits.Separatetheclawsfromthebody–theseareeasytobreakoffblueswimmercrabs,butyoumay need to use a cleaver for crabs such asmud or spanner crabs. Divide the crab body into foursmallerpieces–eitheruseacleavertodividethem,orgentlybreakthemintoquarterswithyourhands.Setaside.

Heattheoilinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheslicedonionandgreenchillies,stirringoccasionally, forabout5minutes,oruntil theonion isgoldenbrown.Add thecoconutandstir forafurther 1minute.Add the onion purée and ginger and garlic pastes and sauté for 5minutes, stirringoccasionally.

Add the coriander, chilli powder, turmeric, tomato and salt, and cook over a medium heat, stirringoccasionally,forabout7minutes,oruntilthetomatohassoftened.

Addallthecrabpieces,alongwith125–250ml(4–8½floz/½–1cup)water,thenstirtomixthrough.Reduce theheat to low,cover thesaucepanwith the lidandsimmerfor20minutes,oruntil thecrabmeatisfirmandtranslucent.Servehot.

SpicyFishChaatServes4

This isawonderfuldish fora light lunchorasastarterbeforedinner.Chaat is thewordused foramixturethathaspiquant,tantalisingflavourswithcontrastingcrisp,crumblyandsofttextures,andismainlyvegetarian.InNorthIndiachaatisavailablefromspecialistcafésandstreetvendors,manyofwhom have a cult following. The ingredients used in this recipe combine to achieve an intriguingbalanceofcontrastingandcomplementaryflavours.Itcanbeservedhotoratroomtemperature.

800g(1lb12oz)firmwhitefishfillets,suchassnapper,mullet,barramundi,mulloway,ling,codorothermeatyfish,cutinto2.5cm(1in)pieces

vegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying2mediumor1largecucumber,diced1red(Spanish)onion,chopped1teaspoonchaatmasalajuiceof2lemonsorlimesTamarindandGingerChutneyMintChutney

Marinade2tablespoonswhitevinegar1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1teaspoonchillipowder½teaspoongroundwhitepepper½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste30g(1oz/¼cup)besan(chickpeaflour)

Putthefishinalargebowl.Sprinkleinthemarinadeingredientsonebyone:thevinegar,gingerpaste,garlic paste, chilli powder, white pepper, salt and besan. Toss to thoroughly coat the fish in themarinade,thencoverandputintherefrigeratortomarinateforupto20minutes.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Deep-frythefishafewpiecesatatimeforabout2minutes,oruntilcrispyontheoutsideandthefleshflakeseasilywhenpressed.Removefromtheoilanddrainonkitchentowels.

Put the fried fish in a large serving bowl. Add the cucumber and onion and carefully toss through.Sprinklewiththechaatmasalaandpouroverthelemonorlimejuice.

Drizzle with the tamarind and ginger chutney and mint chutney and serve immediately or at roomtemperature.

PrawnMalaiCurryServes4

This very famous prawn curry from Bengal is the most requested dish for special occasions in myfamily.Usethelargestfreshestprawns(shrimp)youcanfind.TheheadscontainfabulousflavourandareconsideredadelicacyinIndia.Evenifyoudonotwanttoeatthem,tryleavingtheshellsonuntilthe curry is cooked,and then remove them– theywill deliver loadsof additional flavour.TheHindiwordforcreamismalai,referringtothecoconutcreaminessofthesauce.Servewithsteamedrice.

1kg(2lb3oz)rawlargeprawns(shrimp),washedthoroughly,shelledanddeveinedifdesired2teaspoonsturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastevegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Sauce4greencardamompods2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick4cloves1largeonion,chopped2teaspoonsgingerpaste2teaspoonsgarlicpaste1teaspoonturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder½teaspoonsugar½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2largepotatoes,peeledandcutintocubes250ml(8½floz/1cup)freshcoconutmilkorcannedcoconutmilk(seeNote)

Put the prawns in a large bowl. Sprinklewith the turmeric and salt and toss to thoroughly coat theprawns.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Deep-frytheprawnsafewatatimetoseal,about2minutes.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.

Pouroffmostoftheoil,leavingabout2tablespoonsinthewok.Heatthisremainingoiloveramediumheat.Addthecardamompods,cinnamon,clovesandonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout4minutesoruntil theonionisgoldenbrown.Addthegingerandgarlicpastes, turmeric,chillipowder,sugarandsaltandcook,stirring,for2minutes.

Add125ml(4floz/½cup)water,thenstirinthepotato.Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerfor10minutes.

Stirinthecoconutmilkandthenreturnthedeep-friedprawnstothewok.Reducetheheattoverylow,

cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for a further 10minutes. The potato should be soft and theprawnstranslucentandfirmtothebite.Servehot.

Note: Canned coconut milk will suffice, but if you can make your own with freshly grated coconutsteepedinhotwaterandsieved,you’lltastethedifference.Forthisrecipe,youwillneed100g(3½oz/2cups)offreshlygratedcoconutand375ml(12½floz/1½cups)warmwater.

PrawnswithZucchiniServes4

Thisdishofprawns(shrimp)withzucchini(courgette)hasahintofspiceandthecleanpureflavoursofBengal.Servesimplywithsteamedbasmatirice.Ifyoufeellikespoilingyourself,thisisalovelyrecipetodownsizeandmakeforjustoneperson.

500g(1lb2oz)smallormediumrawprawns(shrimp),shelledanddeveined2teaspoonsturmeric,plusanextrapinch½–1teaspoonsalt,plusanextrapinch1tablespoonmustardoil1tablespoongingerpaste2greenchillies8smallzucchini(courgettes)orgreenmarrow(softsquash),peeledanddiced(seeNote)

Puttheprawnsinalargebowl.Sprinklewith2teaspoonsoftheturmericand½–1teaspoonofthesaltandtosstothoroughlycoattheprawns.

Heat themustardoil inawokor largefryingpanoveramediumheat.Whenit issmoking,cookthegingerpasteandchilliesforabout30seconds,stirringcontinuously.Addtheprawnsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltranslucent–about5minutesforsmallprawnsand8minutesformediumprawns.

Stirinthezucchiniorgreenmarrowwiththeextraturmericandsalt.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforabout10minutes,oruntilthezucchiniissoft.Servehot.

Note:Thisreciperequiresatotalof300g(10½oz/2cups)ofdicedzucchiniorgreenmarrow.

POULTRY

ChickenisstillthemostpopularmeateateninIndia.Everyfamilyhasafavouritesecretchickenrecipeandrestaurantscanbecomefamousforaparticularchickendishtheyserve.CustomersmayqueueupforhourstotasteTandooriChicken–grilledinatraditionalcharcoaltandoor,orwaitpatientlyfortheirfavourite Butter Chicken from another restaurant. Hole-in-the-wall eateries may attract people frommilesaroundfortheirChickenBiryani.

Athomechickenisrelativelyeasytoprepareandtakesmuchlesstimetocookthanredmeat.Itlendsitself tomanydifferent Indiancooking styles– cookedwhole,or jointedorboneless,quicklygrilled(broiled)orwokfried,orevenminced(ground)andmadeintodelectablekoftas.

Chickenteamsupwellwithadiverserangeofspicestoproduceregionalspecialties–fromarichanddelicateSaffronChickenKormatoahotandspicyKarahiChicken.Inthesouthcoconutandalmondsimpartacreaminesstochickendishes,whileinthenorthchickenfeatureslargelyinIndianstreetfood.

Inadditiontotandoorichickenandbiryani–youmayusegrilledchickenwithatandoorimarinadeinwrapsorenjoySouthIndianFriedChickenwithitsdelicateflavourofcurryleaves.

You can substitute other poultry, such as quail, duck, pheasant or spatchcock in these recipes, butwhicheverpoultryyouchoosemakesureitisfreerangeforthebesttasteandtexture.

TandooriChickenServes4

India’soriginalfastfood,tandoorichicken,canbecookedonabarbecueorinanoven.However,itisdifficulttoproducethefabulous,smoky,charcoal-scentedflavourofthisdishwithoutacharcoaloven.Thetandoor,aclayovenfiredwithcharcoal,wasintroducedintoNorth-WestIndiaduringMughalrule(1526–1858).Today,tandoori-stylefoodisanimportantfacetofIndiancookingandmoderntandoorsaremadeofstainlesssteelandinsulatedwithfibreglassandfiredbygas.Foracompletemeal,servethisdishwithaleafygreenorgardensaladandNaan.

1x800g–1kg(1lb12oz–2lb3oz)chickenjuiceof1lemonpinchofsalt1½teaspoonschillipowdergheeorsaltedbutterforbastinglemonwedgestogarnishslicedred(Spanish)oniontogarnish

Marinade1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt1teaspoongarammasalapinchoftandooricolour(seeNote)pinchofwholemace

Removetheskinfromthechickenandmakesmall incisions in thebodyandlegswithasharpknife.Place on a shallow dish or plate and rub with the lemon juice, salt and chilli powder. Put in therefrigeratorfor20minutes.

To make the marinade, mix together the ginger and garlic pastes, yoghurt, garam masala, tandooricolourandmaceinasmallbowl.Coatthechickenwiththemarinadeandmarinateintherefrigeratorforafurther4hours.

Preheat theoven to250°C(480°F).Removethechickenfromthemarinadeandput inaroasting tin.Cook in the oven for about 30–40 minutes, turning and basting with the ghee or butter every 10minutes,untilthechickeniscooked.

Alternatively, preheat a gas barbecuewith a lid to high, or a charcoal barbecuewith a lid until thecharcoal or barbecue fuel briquettes become red embers. Insert ametal rod through the chicken andplace it on a flat tray.Put the trayon thebarbecue, close the lid andcook for about30–40minutes,turningandbastingwiththegheeorbutterevery10minutes,untilthechickeniscooked.

To check if the chicken is cooked through, insert a knife into the joint dividing the thigh and the

drumstick.Ifthejuicesthatrunoutareclear,thechickeniscooked–anysignsofbloodorapinkishliquidmeansthechickenneedsfurthercooking.

Cut thechicken into8pieceswithaverysharpknifeorcleaver,garnishwith the lemonwedgesandonionslicesandserve.

Note:TandooricolourisanIndianfoodcolouringthathasnotaste.Youcanbuyit inIndiangrocerystores.

ChickenBiryaniServes4

This is a special rice and chicken dish, anda completemeal in itself – a one-dish entertainer for acasualevening,orforlunchontheveranda.Anyalfrescosettingwilldo!Mymemorytakesmebacktowarm,moonlitnightsandpicnicsinlushtropicalgardensshadowedbymysteriousruinsofcivilisationslonggone.Thisbiryanirecipeisdifferentfromotherversionsthatuselambandvegetables.Itsoriginsare inPersia,andwhenyouprepare it, the flavourand fragrancewill fill thewhole room.TheonlyaccompanimentitneedsissomeDahiChutney.

75g(2¾oz/½cup)FriedOnionslargehandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,choppedlargehandfulmintleaves,chopped1teaspoonsaffroninfusion1teaspoonturmerichard-boiledeggstogarnishsultanas(goldenraisins)togarnishunsaltedroastedcashewnuts,sliveredalmonds,shelledpistachionutsorpinenutstogarnish

Rice200g(7oz/1cup)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained4bayleaves4blackpeppercorns4cloves2greencardamompods2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick

Chicken1x1kg(2lb3oz)chicken2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil2bayleaves3blackpeppercorns3cloves4greencardamompods2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick1tablespoonwholemace2greenchillies1largeonion,chopped1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste125g(4oz/½cup)plainyoghurt1largetomato,cutintowedges½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Toprepare the rice, put it in a largeheavy-based saucepanwith thebay leaves, peppercorns, cloves,cardamompodsandcinnamonand1litre(34floz/4cups)water.Bringtoaboil,thencookuncoveredoverahighheatfor15minutes,oruntilparboiled.Drainandsetaside.

Meanwhile,topreparethechicken,jointorcutitintoeightservingpieceswithaverysharpknifeoracleaver.Todothis, removethelegsfromthebreastsectionanddivideeachleginto twopieces–thethighandthedrumstick.Halvethebreastsectionlengthwisealongthebreastbone,thencutcrosswiseinhalfagain.

Continuepreparingthechicken.Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Addthe bay leaves, peppercorns, cloves, cardamom pods, cinnamon,mace and green chillies, and cook,stirringcontinuously,forabout1minute,oruntil thespicesreleasetheiraroma.Stir in theonionandsauté for about 2minutes, or until goldenbrown.Stir in theginger andgarlic pastes and cook for afurther2minutes.Addthechickenpieces,yoghurt,tomatoandsaltandstirtomixthrough.Coverandcookoveramediumheatfor30minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.

Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).

Inacasseroledish,arrangelayersoftherice,chicken,friedonions,corianderandmint,finishingwithatoplayeroftherice.Mixtogetherthesaffroninfusionandturmericinasmallbowl,thencarefullypouritintoonecornerofthedish.Coverandcookintheovenfor20minutes.

Garnishwiththehard-boiledeggs,sultanasandnutsandserve.

SaffronChickenKormaServes4

TheancientMughalslaiddownthefoundationsofclassicalIndiancuisine.Theysetuphugekitchens,staffed with hundreds of cooks, who vied with each other to produce innovative dishes using newtechniques and ingredients. Korma comes from the word ‘quarama’, which means ‘braising in oil’.Kormas are mild, delicate and rich curries, best enjoyed in small quantities.Serve the korma withPulaoRiceandParathasorChapattis.

30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil½teaspoonwholemace4greencardamompods2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick3cloves1wholedriedredchilli1smallonion,chopped1tablespoongingerpaste3teaspoonsgarlicpaste½teaspoonturmeric2teaspoonscorianderseeds,ground60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto6pieces½teaspoonsaffroninfusion125ml(4floz/½cup)pouring(single/light)cream55g(2oz/½cup)groundalmondsunsaltedroastedcashewnutstogarnishsultanas(goldenraisins)togarnish

Heatthegheeoroilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautéthemace,cardamompods,cinnamon,cloves,chilliandonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout15minutesoruntiltheonionisgoldenbrown.Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandcook,stirringfrequently,forabout2minutes.Addtheturmericandcorianderandcook,stirring,for1minute.

Stirintheyoghurtandsaltandcookfor1minute.Addthechickenandstirtomixthrough,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor30minutes.

Stirthesaffroninfusion,creamandgroundalmondsthroughthekorma.Coveragain,reducetheheattoverylowandcookforabout10minutes,oruntilthekormahasthickened.

Garnishwiththenutsandsultanas.Servehot.

SaagChickenServes4

Thishome-stylerecipeishealthierthanmanyoftherestaurantversionsofthisdish,anditdoesnotusebicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)toretainthegreencolourofthespinach–asistheusualpracticeincommericalIndiancooking.Asaresult, thisdishpreservesall thevegetable’svitaminsandminerals.Thecombinationofchickenwithspinachworksreallywell,withthespinachprovidingathickbaseandafresh,slightlyastringenttastetothecurry.ServeitwithPulaoRiceandParathasorChapattis.

60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil1largeonion,chopped1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste2tablespoonsplainyoghurt1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto6pieces600g(1lb5oz)Englishspinach,washedthoroughlyandroughlychopped

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout5–7minutes,oruntilbrown.Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandcookfor2minutes.

Stirintheyoghurt,coriander,chillipowder,fenugreekleavesandsalt.Addupto125ml(4floz/½cup)water,1tablespoonatatime,untilthemixtureformsathicksauce.

Addthechicken,stirtomixthroughthesauce,thencover,reducetheheattolowandsimmerforabout30minutes,oruntilthechickenisthree-quarterscooked.

Stirinthespinach,thencoverandsimmerforafurther6minutes,oruntilthespinachiscooked.

Alternatively, if you prefer the spinach to form a really smooth purée, blanch the spinach in a largesaucepanofboilingwater for2minutes.Drain,allowtocoola little, thenpurée ina foodprocessor.Addthespinachpuréetothethree-quarters-cookedchickenandstirthrough,thencoverandsimmerfor2–3minutestoheatthrough.Servehot.

SouthIndianFriedChickenServes4

OntheroadsbetweenthebigtownsandcitiesofSouthIndia–Chennai,Bangalore,Kochi,Trivandrum,Ooty–youcanfindmanycaféssellingthisspicychickendishwrappedinbananaleavesorpaper.Opentheparcelandyouwillbeengulfedinamagicalfragrancethatwillleaveyouraveragefriedchickenfordead!Servethisdishwithaleafygreensalad.

1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto4pieces50g(2oz)besan(chickpeaflour)25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flourvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-fryinglimewedgestoserve

Marinade25curryleaves,chopped2tablespoonsgingerpaste4tablespoonsgarlicpaste5greenchillies,chopped1teaspoonchillipowderjuiceof2lemons½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Put the chicken in a large bowl. Sprinkle in themarinade ingredients one by one: the curry leaves,gingerpaste,garlicpaste,greenchilli,chillipowder, lemonjuiceandsalt.Stir to thoroughlycoat thechickenpieces,thencoverandputintherefrigeratortomarinatefor1hour.

Addthebesanandplainflourtothechickenandmixwell.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto180°C(350°F).Deep-frythechickenafewpiecesatatimefor8–10 minutes, or until crisp on the outside and cooked through. Drain on kitchen towels and serveimmediatelywithlimewedges.

ChickenPasandaRollServes4

Indianfoodisn’tallaboutcurries,goodastheyare.Ifindthatsometimes,Ifeellikesomethingwithatouchof spicebutnot ina sauce.This recipe fits thebill perfectly. It is a special chickenandpanircheese roll, which serves as a starter or as part of an Indian banquet. Slice thickly and serve withSesameChutney.

8bonelesschickenthighs,skinleftonmintleavestogarnish

Marinade1tablespoonwhitevinegar125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt1teaspoongroundwhitepepper1teaspoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Stuffing1greenchilli,chopped½smallred(Spanish)onion,chopped150g(5½oz)panircheese,crumbled½teaspoonfreshlygroundwholemace½teaspoongroundcardamom2tablespoonscornflour(cornstarch)1egg½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Scoretheskinofthechickenpieceswithaverysharpknife,thenflattenwithameatmalletortheflatofalargeknifeorcleaver.Putthechickeninashallowdish.

Tomakethemarinade,mixtogetherthevinegar,yoghurt,whitepepper,gingerandgarlicpastes,oilandsaltinasmallbowl.Pourthemarinadeoverthechickenandcoatwellonbothsides,thenmarinateintherefrigeratorfor2hours.

Preheattheovento200°C(400°F).

Tomakethestuffing,mixtogetherthechilli,onion,panircheese,mace,cardamom,cornflour,eggandsaltinamediumbowl.

Wetyourhandsanddividethemixtureintoeightportions.Shapeeachportionintoacylinder,about2cm(¾in)indiameterandthelengthofaflattenedpieceofthechicken.

Layamarinatedpieceofchickenskinsidedownontheworksurface.Putacylinderofstuffingatoneend and roll up the chicken to enclose the stuffing. Tie firmly with kitchen string. Repeat for theremainingcylindersofstuffingandmarinatedchickenpieces.

Putthestuffedchickenrollsinaroastingtin.Spreadanyleft-overmarinadeoverthetop,thencookintheovenforabout20minutes,oruntil thechicken iscooked through.To test that it isdone,makeasmallincisioninthechickenwithasharpknife–itshouldbewhiteandfirm,withnopinkness.

Restfor10minutesbeforeremovingthestringfromeachroll.Slicethicklyandservewithmintleavessprinkledoverthetop.

ChickenMethiServes4

When planted, fenugreek seeds sprout fenugreek leaves, which are similar to watercress and have alovelyfresh,sharpflavourwithahintofbitterness.Methireferstofenugreekleaves,freshordried,andtheyareusedinsalads,dalsandwithpotatoestomakemethialu–afavouriterecipeofNorthIndia.ItistheuseofdriedfenugreekleavestogetherwithfreshEnglishspinachleavesthatgivesthiscurryitsdistinctiveflavour–aslightlybitter,astringenttastemellowedbytomato.ThisdishisgoodservedwithParathas,ChapattisorNaan.

600g(1lb5oz)Englishspinachleaves,stalksdiscarded,washedthoroughlyandroughlychopped2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1smallonion,chopped1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1tablespoongroundcoriander1teaspoonturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder1tomato,chopped1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces1½tablespoonsdriedfenugreekleaves½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Cookthespinachin125ml(4floz/½cup)waterinalargeuncoveredsaucepanoverahighheatfor5minutes.Drainandallowtocoolalittle,thenpuréeinafoodprocessorandsetaside.

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout2minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addthegingerandgarlicpastesandsauté,stirring,for2minutes.

Stirinthecoriander,turmeric,chillipowderandtomatoandcookfor10seconds.Addthechickenandstir,thencoverthesaucepan,reducetheheattolowandcookforabout30minutes,oruntilthechickenisalmostdone.

Stirinthepuréedspinach,fenugreekleavesandsaltandcookforafurther2minutes.Servehot.

ChickenMasalaServes4

The Spice Kitchen started with a basic chicken masala recipe on the menu twenty-four years ago.Despitemany other changes in the restaurant, the chickenmasala remains unaltered as it is a firmfavourite!AtraditionalNorthIndianrecipe,chickenmasalaworkswellasaneverydaymealorservedwithallthetrimmingsandavegetablebiryaniforaspecialoccasion.Thisrecipeistraditionallymadewithgroundspicesasthisisfasterandeasier.Servewithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice.

2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1largeonion,chopped2tablespoonsgroundcoriander1tablespoongroundcumin1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonturmeric1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste2tablespoonsplainyoghurt1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto3pieces½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastechoppedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Meanwhile,mixtogetherthegroundcoriander,cumin,chillipowderandturmericwith1–2teaspoonswaterinasmallbowltomakeapaste.

Addthegingerandgarlicpastestotheonionandcook,stirring,for2minutes,thenaddthespicepasteandstirfor10seconds.

Stirintheyoghurt,chickenandsalt.Theresultingsauceshouldhavetheconsistencyofathicksoup.Ifnecessary, addup to125ml (4 fl oz/½cup)water, 2 teaspoons at a time, toobtain this consistency.(Someyoghurtshavearunnierconsistencythanothers.)Coverandsimmeroveralowheatforabout30minutes,oruntilthechickeniscookedandtender.

Garnishwiththechoppedcorianderandserve.

KarahiChickenServes4

Cookingwithakarahi,orIndianwok, isaspecialcookingmethodthatoriginatedhundredsofyearsagoinNorth-WestIndia.Thecoarselycrushedspices,theintensityofheatandthesuperspeedycookingthatareafeatureofthisstyleofcuisinegivekarahicookingitsdistinctiveflavour.Karahichickenistheoriginal karahi recipe. Constant stirring is the key to success. Serve it with Naan, Parathas orChapattis.

2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1onion,chopped½teaspoongingerpaste½teaspoongarlicpaste2greenchillies,chopped4tablespoonsbaltimasala½teaspoonturmeric500g(1lb2oz)skinless,bonelesschickenthighs,eachcutinto2cm(¾in)pieces1smallgreencapsicum(pepper),diced1smallredcapsicum(pepper),diced2ripetomatoes,chopped2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heattheoilinawok,karahiorlargefryingpanoverahighheat.Stir-frytheonionforabout2minutes,oruntiltranslucent.

Addthegingerandgarlicpastesandstir-fryfor30seconds.Addthechilli,baltimasalaandturmericandstir-fryfor30seconds.Addthechickenandstir-frytocoatwiththespicemixture,thenstirinthegreenandredcapsicumandcookfor10seconds.

Addthetomato,choppedcorianderandsaltandcontinuetocookoverahighheat,stirringcontinuously,for about 20–25minutes, or until the chicken is cooked. (Youwill need to keep stirring constantlythroughoutthecookingtime.)Servehot.

ChickenKoftaKormaServes4

Thesechickenkoftasaretodiefor–delicate,meltinthemouthandunforgettable.Manykoftarecipesuseredmeatandarefried,butthebestkoftasarepoachedinsauceandhavealovelytenderjuiciness.Thisrecipeusesakormasauce,richwithyoghurt,creamandgroundalmonds–saveit foraspecialoccasionandserveitwithPulaoRiceandNaan,ParathasorChapattis.

Koftas500g(1lb2oz)minced(ground)chicken1onion,chopped1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste80g(2¾oz/1cup)freshbreadcrumbs2eggs½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1teaspoonchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1teaspoonchoppedmintleaves½teaspoongroundcardamom½teaspoonfreshlygroundwholemace

Sauce60g(2oz)gheeorsaltedbutter(seeNote)2largeonions,sliced1driedwholeredchilli1tablespoongingerpaste1teaspoongarlicpaste1teaspoonturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt125ml(4floz/½cup)pouring(single/light)cream½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoongroundalmonds

Tomakethekoftas,mixtogetherthechicken,onion,gingerandgarlicpastes,breadcrumbs,eggs,salt,corianderandmint leaves, cardamomandmace ina largebowl.Dipyourhands inwarmwaterand,using the palmsof your hands, roll the koftamixture into balls about 3 cm (1¼ in) in diameter. Setaside.

Tomakethesauce,heatthegheeorbutterinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonionandchilli,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntiltheonionisgoldenbrown.

Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandcook,stirringfrequently,forabout2minutes.Addtheturmeric,groundcorianderandyoghurtandcook,stirringoccasionally,for3minutes.

Stirinthecream,saltand250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterandbringtoaboil,thenimmediatelyreducetheheattolowandsimmeruncoveredfor10minutes.Addthegroundalmondsandcookforafurther5minutes.

Carefullydropthekoftasintothesauce,thencoverandcookoveralowheatfor30minutes.Servehot.

Note:Gheereallyispreferableforthisrecipeasithasthebestflavourandconsistency.Youcanreplaceitwithsaltedbutter,butthefinalflavourwillnotbeasnuancedorasrich.

ButterChickenServes4

IncontrasttootherregionalIndiandishes,butterchickenisarelativenewcomer,beingonlyaboutfiftyyearsold.Today,itisoneofthemostpopulardishesintheIndianrepertoire.Traditionallycookedinatandoorclayoven,itssmokyflavour,combinedwithasweetishtomatosauceandcontrastedwithbitterfenugreekleaves,appealstomanypalates.ServewithhotNaan.

1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto5cm(2in)piecespouring(single/light)creamtogarnishdriedfenugreekleavestogarnishsaltedbuttertogarnish

Marinade185g(6½oz/¾cup)plainyoghurt1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala½teaspoonfreshlygroundwholemacepinchoftandooricolour(SeeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Sauce4largeripetomatoes,chopped125g(4½oz/½cup)tomatopaste(concentratedpurée)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoonsugar1teaspoonchillipowder2tablespoonsdriedfenugreekleaves50g(1¾oz)saltedbutter60ml(2floz/¼cup)pouring(single/light)cream1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste

Tomakethemarinade,mixtogethertheyoghurt,gingerandgarlicpastes,chillipowder,garammasala,mace,tandooricolourandsaltinalargebowl.

Add the chicken pieces to the marinade and stir to coat well. Cover and put in the refrigerator tomarinateforatleast4hours.

Preheattheovento220°C(430°F).

Remove the chicken from themarinade andput in a roasting tin.Cook in theoven for about 15–20

minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.Alternatively,preheatabarbecueorchargrillplate tomedium.Searthechickenpiecesforabout1minuteoneachside,thencookoveramediumheatforabout6minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.Takecarenottoovercookorthechickenwilldryout.Setaside.

Tomake the sauce, mix together the tomato, tomato paste, salt, sugar, chilli powder and fenugreekleavesinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Bringtoaboil,reducetheheat tolow,thencoverandsimmerfor20minutes.

Remove from the heat and strain the tomatomixture through amesh strainer into a heatproof bowl.Scrapethesideofthestrainerforanyresidueandpressdownhardwiththebackofaspoonsothatasmuchofthetomatomixtureaspossiblegoesthrough.Setaside.

Continuemaking the sauce. In amedium saucepan, heat the butter and cream over amedium heat,stirringfrequently.Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandcookfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addthestrainedtomatomixtureandstirtocombineandheatthrough.

Addthecookedchickentothesauceandsimmerforafurther5minutes.

Garnishwithaswirlofcream,afewfenugreekleavesandaknobofbutter,andserve.

Note:TandooricolourisanIndianfoodcolouringthathasnotaste.Youcanbuyit inIndiangrocerystores.

DumKaMurghServes4

ThisisasteamedIndianchickenpotroastthatisaspecialtyofHyderabad.Dumkamurghessentiallymeans ‘cooking under steam’. This cooking style was made popular in India during the fourteenthcentury. Very slow cooking on a very, very low heat produces a special flavour and keeps themeatplump.Thepot is sealedwithdough toprevent anymoistureor flavour fromescaping, and thedishretainsallthejuicesandaromasofitsingredients.ServewithPulaoRice.

1x1kg(2lb3oz)chicken30g(1oz)gheeorsaltedbutter2tablespoonsjuliennedfreshginger2garliccloves,thinlysliced2x2.5cm(1in)cinnamonsticks4greencardamompods4blackcardamompods6cloves4blackpeppercorns1teaspoonwholemace30g(1oz/¼cup)sultanas(goldenraisins)150g(5½oz/1cup)FriedOnions

Marinade250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonsfinelychoppedmintleaves2tablespoonsfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves4greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact

DoughforSealing200g(7oz)attaflourorplain(all-purpose)flour

Jointorcutthechickenintoeightservingpieceswithaverysharpknifeoracleaver.Todothis,removethelegsfromthebreastsectionanddivideeachlegintotwopieces–thethighandthedrumstick.Halvethebreastsectionlengthwisealongthebreastbone,thencutcrosswiseinhalfagain.

Tomake themarinade,mix together the ingredients in a large bowl. Add the chicken pieces to themarinadeandstirtocoatwell.Coverandputintherefrigeratortomarinatefor30minutes.

Tomake thedough for sealing,put theattaorplain flour inamediumbowlandmakeawell in thecentre.Graduallypour in60–125ml(2–4floz/¼–½cup)waterwhileworking in theflour,addingalittlemorewater ifnecessary to forma softdough.Turnoutontoa lightly flouredworksurfaceandkneadfor5minutes.Restfor20minutes.

Meanwhile,preheattheovento120°C(250°F).

Heatthegheeorbutterinafryingpanoveramediumheat.Addtheginger,garlic,cinnamon,greenandblackcardamompods,cloves,peppercorns,maceandsultanasandcook,stirring,for2minutes.

Tip thismixture into thebowlcontaining thechickenandmarinade.Add the friedonionsandstir tocombinethoroughly,thentransferthecontentsofthebowltoacasseroledish.

Rollouttheresteddoughsothatitisslightlylargerindiameterthantheopeningofthecasseroledish.Laythedoughoverthetopofthecasseroledishandsealcompletely,sothatitformsaflourdoughlid.

Cookintheovenforatleast2hours.Ifyouhavethetime,youcancookthisdishforupto4hours,astheflavourisimprovedbylongercooking.However,youshouldreducetheoventemperatureto100°C(210°F)forthefinalhourofcooking.

Removethecasseroledishfromtheovenandrestfor15minutes.Crackopenthedoughlidanddiscardjustbeforeserving.

ChickenMoileeServes4

Chickenmoileeisareallyeasy,delicaterecipefromKerala,withpoppyseedsandcoconutimpartingalovelycreaminesstothedish.Serveonabananaleafforanauthenticfeel,withjust-cookedfluffywhitericeandGreenBeanThoran–theperfectfoilsforitssubtleflavours.

2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1onion,chopped1kg(2lb3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces1tablespoongroundcumin1teaspoonturmeric1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1tablespoonpoppyseeds,ground2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick½teaspoonblackpeppercorns3–4greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact1tomato,chopped250ml(8½floz/1cup)freshcoconutmilkorcannedcoconutmilk½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntiltranslucent.

Stir in the chicken, cumin, turmeric, ginger and garlic pastes, poppy seeds, cinnamon, peppercorns,chillies,tomato,coconutmilkandsalt.Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerforabout30minutes,oruntilthechickenistender.Servehot.

DuckMappasServes4

IfirsttriedthisdishontheroadfromChennaitoPondicherryinSouthIndia,inalittleFrenchsettledtownwherecaféaulaitandpainauchocolatwere–andapparentlystillare–servedatthelocalcafésandrestaurants.Forty-twoyearslater,mytastebudscanstillrecalltherichduckflavour,mellowedbythecoconutand liftedby the spicecombination,with theduck’s inherent richnesscut throughby theacidityofthevinegar.Servethisdishwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice.

1x1kg(2lb3oz)organicduck½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste½teaspoonblackpeppercorns,crushed

Sauce60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2onions,chopped1tablespoonchillipowder2tablespoonsgroundcoriander1teaspoonturmeric250ml(8½floz/1cup)freshcoconutmilkorcannedcoconutmilk1tablespoonwhitevinegar

Tempering30g(1oz)gheeorsaltedbutter2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick,ground3cloves1teaspoonblackmustardseeds

Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).

Puttheduckinaroastingtin,sprinklewiththesaltandpepperandpourin125ml(4floz/½cup)wateraroundtheduck.Cookintheovenforabout1¼hours,oruntiltender.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolalittle.

Whiletheduckiscooking,makethesauce.Heatthegheeoroilinalargefryingpanorsaucepan.Sautéthe onion, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until translucent. Stir in the chilli powder,corianderand turmericandcookforabout1minute.Stir in thecoconutmilkandvinegar, reduce theheattolowandcookuncoveredfor10minutes.Setaside.

Whentheduckiscoolenoughtohandle,jointorcutitintoeightservingpieceswithaverysharpknifeoracleaver.Todothis,removethelegsfromthebreastsectionanddivideeachlegintotwopieces–thethighanddrumstick.Halvethebreastsectionlengthwisealongthebreastbone,thencutcrosswiseinhalfagain.

Addthecookedduckandtheroastingjuicesfromtheroastingtintothesauceinthepanandcookoveralowheatfor10minutes.

To make the tempering, heat the ghee or butter over a high heat in a small frying pan. Add thecinnamon,clovesandmustardseedsandheatuntilthemustardseedsstarttocrackle.

Removefromtheheatimmediately,pourovertheduckcurryandstirthrough.Servehot.

MEAT

In ancient India, communities ate and enjoyed all kinds of meat, but as time passed and traditionschanged religious, economic and social influences limited the variety of meat consumed. The cowbecame a holy animal inHinduism, andmostHindusdonot eat beef.Muslims and Jews cannot eatpork,andmanyChristiansandParsees,outofrespecttotheirHinduneighbours,stayawayfrombeefaswell.Themostpopularmeatsconsumedarethuslamb,poultryandgoatmeat.Offalisalsopopularandmanytraditionalrecipesshowcaselambs’andgoats’brainsandlivers.

Many Indians prefer to usemeat on the bone for cooking, as it can add extra flavour to curries andtandooridishes–seeRoastedLambShankMasalaandTandooristyleLambCutlets.Ifyoudowishtousemeaton theboneaskyourbutcher to cutup lamborgoat forequarters, shouldersor shanks intosmall3–4cm(2¼–2½in)pieces,orbuyacombinationofmeatontheboneanddicedmeatfromthesupermarket.Youwillbejustlyrewardedwiththeresult.

Other,less-usedcutsofmeatinIndiancookingincludeporkchops,bellyandribs,aswellasporkneckand leg,vealorossobucco.Venison issometimesusedas it respondswell tospicecooking.Minced(ground)meatisusedextensivelyinIndiancuisine.

Thedishesinthischaptereachhavetheirownindividualflavoursandcharacteristics,andhavemuchmore variety in heat, texture and taste compared to the curries served in most Indian takeawayrestaurants.Exploretheserecipes,matchthemtootherdishesinthisbookandcreateanIndianbanquetofyourveryown!

LambRoganjoshServes4

RoganjoshisamainstayofIndianrestaurantsandtakeaways.Thewordroganreferstotheredoilorglazethatdevelopsontopofthecurryasitcooks,whilejoshmeans‘somethingpleasingthatpacksapunch’. Originally from Kashmir, the traditional recipe did not include onions or tomatoes. TheroganjoshmostpeoplearefamiliarwithisaNorthIndianversionwiththesweetflavourofcaramelisedonion,gingerandtomato.Thisrecipeisasimplifiedversion,whichisjustasdelicioususingmeatonoroffthebone.ServewithPulaoRiceorNaan,ParathasorMasalaPappadums.

60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil6greencardamompods2largeonions,sliced1tablespoongingerpaste2tablespoonsgarlicpaste250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt2teaspoonsturmeric2teaspoonschillipowder1kg(2lb3oz)dicedlambor1kg(2lb3oz)lambchops,oracombinationofboth(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonstomatopaste(concentratedpurée)

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Addthecardamompodsandonionand sauté, stirring occasionally, for 5–7minutes, or untilwell browned.Stir in the ginger andgarlicpastesandcookforafurther2minutes.

Stirintheyoghurt, turmericandchillipowder,thenaddthelambandsaltwith60ml(2floz/¼cup)water. Stir, then cover and simmer for about 1 hour, or until themeat is tender, adding a littlemorewaterifrequiredtokeepthecurrymoist.

Stirinthetomatopaste,reducetheheattolow,coveragainandcookforafurther20minutes,oruntilthemeatisfall-aparttender.Servehot.

Note:Youcanusedicedlamb,whichisboneless,oryoucanchoosefromlambforequarterorshoulderchops, slices of lamb shank ormarrow bones.Get your butcher to cut shoulder chops andmarrowbonesinto3cm(1¼in)pieces.Traditionally,Indiancooksuseacombinationofmeatcutbothonandoffthebone.

Tandoori-StyleLambCutletsServes4

Grilling (broiling)orbarbecuingmeatandvegetablesover charcoal is a really importantmethod inIndiancooking.Itisdoneinaclayoven,thetandoor,orinasigri,anopensteelgratewithacharcoalfire.ThesigritechniquecanbemoreeasilyreplicatedathomewithaWestern-stylebarbecue.Ifyouusecharcoal,youwillberichlyrewardedwithfantasticflavours.Gasbarbecuesorchargrillpansarethenextbestalternative.ServewithNaanorParathas,andaleafygreensalad.

12lambcutletsor2x8-boneracksoflamb(seeNote)GreenChutneytoserveOnionSaladtoservelimewedgestoserve

Marinade2teaspoonschillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonsmustardoilorvegetableorcanolaoil2tablespoonswhitevinegar125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt

Ifyouareusing the racksof lamb,cuteach rack into4x2-boneportions.Usingaverysharpknife,remove one bone completely from each portion and scrape away themeat and fat at the top of theremainingbonetoprovideaclean‘handle’.Alternatively,askyourbutchertodothisforyou.

Tomakethemarinade,mixtogetherthechillipowder,cumin,coriander,turmeric,salt,oilandvinegarin a large shallow bowl. Add the lamb cutlets to themarinade and coat well. Cover and put in therefrigeratortomarinatefor1hour.

Stir the yoghurt through the marinade, making sure it is mixed thoroughly and coats the lamb.Refrigerateforafurther1hour.

Preheatabarbecue,chargrillpanorgrill(broiler)toahighheat.Removethelambfromthemarinadeandbarbecueorgrillononesideuntilsealedandseared–about2minutesforthethincutlets,andabout4minutes if you are using the thick, ‘double’ cutlets.Turn the cutlets over and cook for a further 2minutesforthincutlets,andafurther4minutesforthickcutlets.Thecutletsarereadywhentheyaresearedontheoutsidebutpinkandjuicyinside.

Servewithgreenchutney,onionsaladandlimewedgesforsqueezingover.

Note: Lamb cutlets are the individually separated rib chops from a rack of lamb. They are almostalwayssoldbybutchersalreadyFrench-trimmed,whichmeansthatthemeatandfatatthetopofthebonehavebeenscrapedawayusingaverysharpknifetoprovideaclean‘handle’.Ifyouareusingtheracks of lamb for this recipe, you could ask your butcher to prepare the racks into the 4 x 2-boneportionsdescribedinsteadofdoingityourself.

LambKataMasalaServes4

Noteverycurryhastoberichorcomplicated.OfallthecurriesthatIrememberfrommychildhood,thiseasyNorth Indianhome-style recipewouldhave tobe themostpopular. It isa special favouritewithyoungchildrenwhoenjoymoppingitupwithfreshbread,usingtheirfingersofcourse!Itusesthebhunaocookingtechnique,whichisconstantstir-fryingoverahighheatfor20minutesormoreuntilthemeatandspiceshavearoasted,toastedtaste.Servethisdishwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainriceorhome-styleIndianbreadssuchasMissieRotiorParathas.

1kg(2lb3oz)dicedlambor1kg(2lb3oz)lambchops,oracombinationofboth(seeNote)2largeonions,sliced2tablespoonschoppedfreshginger2tablespoonschoppedgarlic1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonturmeric4greencardamompods4cloves4blackpeppercorns2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil4largetomatoes,chopped,or400g(14oz)candicedtomatoes,drained125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastecoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Mix together the lamb, onion, ginger, garlic, chilli powder, turmeric, cardamom pods, cloves,peppercorns,cinnamon,oil, tomato,yoghurtandsalt ina largeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Bringtoaboil.

Whenitjuststartstobubble,reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforatleast1hour,oruntilthelambisfall-aparttender,adding60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterifrequiredtokeepitmoist.

Removethelid,increasetheheattohighandbhunao(stir-fry)overahighheatforabout15minutes,untilmostoftheliquidhasevaporatedandtheoilseparatesfromthemeat.

Stirin125ml(4floz/½cup)watertoformathicksauce,garnishwiththecorianderandservehot.

HaraKeemawithSpinachandMintServes4

Minced(ground)meatisapopularingredientinIndiancooking.Icertainlyloveusingitbecauseofitsversatility–koftas,kababs,Indian-stylepâtésandsimplecurriesarejustthetipofthehugecollectionofIndianmincedmeatrecipes.Thisgreencurry–harameans‘green’inHindi–hasadeliciousfreshtang,anditcanbecookedandreadytoservein30minutes.EatitwithPooris,ParathasorChapattis.

200g(7oz)Englishspinach,washedthoroughlyandroughlychopped2tablespoonsmintleaves1tablespooncoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil2greencardamompods2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick4cloves1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1smallonion,chopped3greenchillies,chopped750g(1lb11oz)minced(ground)beef,lamborgoat½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste½teaspoongroundwhitepepper185g(6½oz/¾cup)plainyoghurt½teaspoongarammasala

Blanchthespinachinalargesaucepanofboilingwaterfor2minutes.Drain,allowtocoolalittle,thentransfertoafoodprocessor.Addthemintandcorianderleavesandprocesstoapurée.Setaside.

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Addthecardamompods,cinnamonandclovesandheatuntiltheybegintocrackle.Immediatelyaddthegingerandgarlicpastesandcook,stirringcontinuously,forabout1minute.Addtheonionandchilliandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout4minutes,oruntiltheonionisgoldenbrown.

Addthemeat,saltandwhitepepper,andstirtomixtogetherandbreakupthemeatwiththebackofthespoonsothatitseparatesratherthanclumpingtogether.Sautéoveramediumheat,stirringoccasionally,forabout15minutes,oruntilthemeatisbrowned.

Stirintheyoghurtandcookoveramediumheatfor5minutes,oruntilthemixtureisalmostdry.Stirinthereservedspinachpuréeandheatthrough.

Sprinkleoverthegarammasalaandstirthrough,thenservehot.

LambKormaServes4

Kormasaremild, rich curries thathavemanydiverse ingredientsandmayvary in colourand taste.ThinkofthegreatMughalkingsandtheirdancinggirls,music,poetry,statesmanship–donotletyourmind dwell on average takeaways. This wonderful recipe must be treated with respect, cooked in aleisurelyfashion,andservedwithPulaoRiceorChapattis,NaanorParathastoaccompanyit.

125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1kg(2lb3oz)dicedlambor1kg(2lb3oz)lambchops,oracombinationofboth(seeNote)30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil(seeNotes)4greencardamompods1teaspoonwholemace1wholedriedredchilli1largeonion,chopped2teaspoonsgingerpaste2teaspoonsgarlicpaste1½tablespoonsgroundcoriander¼teaspoonturmeric55g(2oz/½cup)groundalmonds125ml(4floz/½cup)pouring(single/light)cream¼teaspoonsaffroninfusion1tablespoonwhitepoppyseeds,groundsmallhandfulchoppeddriedapricots,sunflowerseeds,cashewnutsandsultanas(goldenraisins)

togarnish(seeNotes)pouring(single/light)creamtogarnish

Inalargebowl,mixtogethertheyoghurtandsalt.Addthelambandstirtocoatwiththemixture,thenmarinateintherefrigeratorfor2hours.

Heat thegheeoroil in a largeheavy-based saucepanover amediumheat.Add the cardamompods,mace andchilli and cook for30 seconds.Add theonionand sauté, stirringoccasionally, for about5minutes,oruntiltranslucent.

Addthegingerandgarlicpastes,corianderandturmericandstirtomixthrough.Stirinthelambwiththemarinatingyoghurt, thencover, reduce theheat to lowandcook forabout1½hours,oruntil themeatisalmosttender.

Stirthegroundalmonds,cream,saffroninfusionandpoppyseedsthroughthekorma.Cover,reducetheheattoverylowandsimmerforafurther20minutes,oruntilthelambismelt-in-themouthtender.

Garnishwiththedriedapricots,sunflowerseeds,cashewnutsandsultanas,andaswirlofcream.

Notes:Gheereallyispreferableforthisrecipe.Youcouldreplaceitwithoil,butbeawarethatthefinalflavourwillnotbeasrichandsubtle.

Thedried fruit, seedandnutmixwill keepwell inanairtightcontainer,andcanbeused togarnishothercurries.

ApricotLambCurryServes4

AmidstallthehotandspicymeatrecipesfromtheMumbaiandGoanregions,hereisalovely,delicatePersian-influenced recipe fromWest India, especially good forwhen you lack preparation time. Thesweetandtarttasteofdriedapricotscutsthroughtherichnessofthelamb.Fortheverybestresults,usemilk-fed lamb (unweaned lamb, which is usually between four and six weeks old) and serve withsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice.

1kg(2lb3oz)dicedlambor1kg(2lb3oz)lambshoulderorforequarterchops,oracombinationofboth(seeNote)

2largeonions,chopped1tablespoonchoppedfreshginger1tablespoonchoppedgarlic3largewholedriedredchillies90g(3oz/½cup)driedapricots5greencardamompods2blackcardamompods4cloves7.5cm(3in)cinnamonstick250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt1tablespoonsugar½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Put the lamb, onion, ginger, garlic, chillies, apricots, green and black cardamom pods, cloves,cinnamon, yoghurt, sugar and salt in a large heavy-based saucepan. Mix together, then cover thesaucepanandbringtoaboiloveramediumheat,stirringoccasionally.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour, or until almost all themoisture hasevaporatedandthemeatisfall-aparttender.

Increasetheheattomediumandbhunao(stir-fry)thecurryforabout20minutes,untiltheoilseparatesfromthespicesandaglazeformsonthemeat.Themeatshouldbereallytenderbynow,withaglossygoldenhue.Servehot.

DalMeinGoshtServes4

Dalmeingoshtisatraditionalmeatandlentilcurry,withmeatthatisfall-aparttenderinacomfortingthicklentilsauce.Rainydaysandthisrecipejustgotogether.AddsomeTomatoChutney,abowlofjust-cookedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice,drizzlewithhotghee,andforgettheworldoutside.

60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2bayleaves5cm(2in)cinnamonstick4cloves4greencardamompods1smallonion,chopped1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonturmeric1tablespooncorianderseeds,roastedandground1tablespooncuminseeds,roastedandground2teaspoonsgingerpaste2teaspoonsgarlicpaste1kg(2lb3oz)dicedbeef,lamborgoator1kg(2lb3oz)beef,lamborgoatchops,ora

combinationofboth(seeNote)110g(4oz/½cup)splityellowpeas,washedanddrained½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastechoppedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over amediumheat. Stir in the bay leaves, cinnamon,cloves,cardamompodsandonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,for5–7minutes,oruntiltheonionisbrown.

Meanwhile,mixtogetherthechillipowder,turmeric,groundcorianderandcuminwith125ml(4floz/½cup)waterinasmallbowltomakeapaste.Setaside.

Addthegingerandgarlicpastestothesaucepanandcook,stirring,for30seconds.Addthereservedspicepasteandcook,stirring,for30seconds.

Addthemeat,splityellowpeasandsaltandstirtocoatwiththespices.Add750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterandsalt,andbringtoaboil.

Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerforabout1½hours,oruntilthemeatisbeautifullytender,thesplityellowpeasaresoftandthesauceisthick.Checkregularlyduringthecookingperiodtoseeiftheliquidhasevaporatedandthecurryisdryingout.Ifitis,addwater,125ml(4floz/½cup)atatime,tokeepitmoist.

Garnishwiththechoppedcorianderandserve.

Note:Youcanusedicedmeat,whichisboneless,oryoucouldchoosefromlamborgoatforequarterorshoulderchops,slicesoflambshank,beefshankorvealshank(thecutofmeatusedforossobucco),orbeefcheekorbeef, lamborgoatmarrowbones.Getyourbutcher tocutshoulderchopsandmarrowbonesinto3cm(1¼in)pieces.

MeatPatialaServes4

Punjab iswell known for its robust, spicycurries,burstingwith flavourand rich inghee.Enjoy thisrecipe from Patiala, in south-eastern Punjab, and use either lamb or goat forequarter or shoulderchops,orslicesoflambshank,beefshankorvealshank(thecutofmeatusedforossobucco)toaddfantastictextureandflavour.Cuttingthemeatontheboneaddsmoreflavour–yourbutchercandothisforyou.ServethecurrywithParathasorChapattis.

125g(4½oz)gheeor125ml(4floz/½cup)vegetableorcanolaoil1kg(2lb3oz)dicedbeef,lamborgoator1kg(2lb3oz)beef,lamborgoatchops,ora

combinationofboth(seeNote)2onions,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste2tablespoonsgingerpaste2tablespoonsgarlicpaste4blackcardamompods5cloves2bayleaves2x2.5cm(1in)cinnamonsticks1teaspoonblackpeppercorns2teaspoonschillipowder1teaspoonturmeric2tablespoonsgroundcoriander2tomatoes,chopped2tablespoonsslicedfreshginger2tablespoonscuminseeds,roastedandgroundchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Heatthegheeoroilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Addthemeat,onionandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout15–20minutes,oruntilthemeatisbrowned.

Stirinthegingerandgarlicpastesandsauté,stirringoccasionally,for8–10minutes.

Stir in the cardamom pods, cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon and peppercorns. There should be enoughmoisturefortheonionandspicestocoatthemeat.Iftheingredientsarestickingtothebaseofthepan,stirinupto250ml(8½floz/1cup)water.Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerforabout1hour,oruntilthemeatisalmostcooked.

Stirinthechillipowderandturmericandcookfor30seconds,thenaddthegroundcoriander.Increasetheheattohigh,stirinthetomatoandcookuntilitdisintegratesandformsasmoothsauce.

Stirinthegingerandcumin,thengarnishwithplentyofchoppedcorianderandserve.

BhunaGoshtServes4

TheBritishcalledallthedishestheyencounteredinIndia‘curry’.However,everycurryiscookedwithadistinctivetechniquethatresultsinaspecialflavourandtexture.Thisfamilyfavourite,aNorthIndianrecipe,isafairlydrycurry–itsindividualflavourobtainedbyconstantbhunao-ing(stir-frying)untilthemeatandspiceshavearoasted, toasted taste.Serve itwithPooris,Parathasorsteamed basmatirice.

60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2largeonions,chopped2tablespoonsgingerpaste2tablespoonsgarlicpaste2tablespoonscuminseeds,roastedandground3tablespoonscorianderseeds,roastedandground1teaspoonfenugreekseeds,roastedandground2teaspoonsturmeric2teaspoonschillipowder60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt1kg(2lb3oz)dicedbeef,lamborgoator1kg(2lb3oz)beef,lamborgoatchops,ora

combinationofboth(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastecoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,for about 10 minutes, or until dark brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and sauté, stirringfrequently,for2minutes.

Mixtogetherthecumin,coriander,fenugreek,turmericandchillipowderinasmallbowl.Tipthisintotheonionmixtureandcook,stirringcontinuously,for2minutes,whilegraduallyaddingtheyoghurtatthesametimetomoistenthemixtureandpreventitfromsticking.

Addthemeatandsaltandstirtomixthrough.Increasetheheattohighandstir-fryoverahighheatforabout20minutes,oruntiltheoilseparatesfromthemasala(thecombinationofspices)andaglazeorshinedevelopsonthemeat.

Stir in 250ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup)water, then reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for about 40minutes,oruntilthemeatistender.

Garnishwithplentyofcorianderleavesandserve.

LambPasandaHariyaliServes4

MostIndianmeatcurriesarecookedonthebonefortheaddedconcentratedflavourthatitgivestothemeat.Buttherearesomeexceptions.Pasanda(fromthewordpasand,whichmeans‘likedbyeveryone’)isaspecial,tendercutofmeat–lamborgoatisusedinIndia–thatisusuallytakenfromthetopofthelegandflattened.However,thisrecipeusesthebackstrapoflamborlambloinfillets–thinbutextra-tendercutsofmeat.Oncethe4–8hoursofmarinatingisdone,thisreallyisaveryquick,fresh-tastingdishtomake.ServeitwithNaan,ChapattisorParathasandaRaita.

800g(1lb12oz)lambbackstrapsorlambloinfillet1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil1onion,slicedslicedredchillitogarnishlemonorlimewedgesdippedincrushedchilliestogarnish(seeNote)

GreenMasala200g(7oz)Englishspinach,washedthoroughlyandroughlychopped4springonions(scallions),roughlychopped1tablespoonchoppedfreshginger1tablespoonchoppedgarlic1½tablespoonssesameseeds,coarselyground½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste4greenchilliessmallhandfulmintleaveslargehandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves

Tomakethegreenmasala,blanchthespinachinalargesaucepanofboilingwaterfor2minutes.Drain,allow to cool a little, then transfer to a food processor.Add the spring onion, ginger, garlic, sesameseeds,salt,chillies,mintandcorianderandprocesstomakeasmoothpurée.

Cleanthelambbackstrapsorlambloinfillets.Cuteachbackstraporfilletintoeightpieces,thenflattentoabout1cm(½in)thickwithameatmalletortheflatedgeofalargeknifeorcleaver.Putthelambinashallowdishandcoatthoroughlywiththegreenmasala.Coverandputintherefrigeratortomarinatefor4–8hours.

Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Addthelambwiththemarinadeandcookfor1minuteoneachsidetosealthemeat.

Reduce theheat to low.Putametalplateslightlysmaller than thefryingpanon topof themeatand

weighitdownwithsomethingheavy(suchasfoodcans)tostopthemeatfromcurlingup.Cookforafurther5–7minutes.Removefromtheheatandrestthelambfor5minutes.

Meawhile,inaseparatelargefryingpan,heatthegheeoroiloverahighheat.Addtheonion,reducetheheattomediumandsautéforabout8minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Mix the onion with the rested lamb to combine thoroughly, then serve immediately garnished withslicedredchilliandlemonwedges.

Note:Tomakethegarnish,usingamortarandpestlegrind1tablespoonofcrushedchilliestoacoarsepowder.Transfertoaplateanddipthelemonorlimewedgesinthepowdertocoatthem.Thewedgeswillabsorbalittleoftheheatfromthechilliesandaddanextrakickwhensqueezedoverthelamb.

LambBiryaniServes4–6

Therearemanyrecipesforlambbiryani,India’sfavouritelambandricedish,servedfromstreetcafés,at school fairs and at weddings. This is a really easy recipe that comes from ‘hole-in-the-wall’restaurantsinoldDelhi.Italldependsontherichflavourofthelambstock.Thisisaperfectexampleofthefantasticflavourandgelatinoustexturethatthesecondarycutsoflambcangivetoadish.ServeitwithCucumberRaita.

60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil4greencardamompods6cm(2½in)cinnamonstick4greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact500g(1lb2oz/2½cups)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt1tablespoonsaffroninfusion½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste½teaspoonturmeric3–4dropsofkewrawater(optional)(seeNote)unsaltedroastedcashewnutstogarnishsultanas(goldenraisins)togarnish

LambandStock30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsmustardoil6greencardamompods4blackcardamompods½teaspoonwholemace4cm(1½in)cinnamonstick4greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1kg(2lb3oz)lambonthebone,suchasribchops,shoulderchops,spareribsandmarrowbones

(seeNote)250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Toprepare the lamband stock, heat thegheeormustardoil in a largeheavy-based saucepanover amedium heat. If you are using mustard oil, heat it until it is smoking. Add the green and blackcardamom pods, mace, cinnamon and chillies and heat until the spices begin to crackle. Stir in thegingerandgarlicpastesandcookfor2minutes.

Stir in the lamb,yoghurtandsalt.Addabout1 litre (34 floz/4cups)waterandbring toaboil, thencoverandsimmerforabout1hour,oruntilthemeatistender.

In a separate large heavy-based saucepan, heat the ghee or oil over a medium heat. Add the greencardamompods,cinnamon,chilliesandriceandsauté,stirringcontinuously,untilthegheeoroilcoatseverygrainofrice.

Addthecookedlamband750ml(25½floz/3cups)ofthecookingstockandstirtomixthrough.(Ifthestockhasbeenreducedtolessthan750ml,addenoughwatertomakeituptothisquantity.)

Stirintheyoghurt,saffroninfusionandsalt.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattoaslowaspossible,coverandcookforabout20minutes,oruntilalmostallthestockisabsorbed.

Mixtogethertheturmericand1tablespoonwaterinasmallbowluntildissolved,thencarefullypouritinoneplaceontopofthealmost-cookedrice,butdonotstir.Coverandcontinuecookingforabout15minutes,oruntilalltheliquidisabsorbedandthericeiscooked.

Ifyouwish,gentlystir thebiryani justbeforeserving–this isdonetoproducethetrademarkyellowandwhitegrainsofabiryani,butyoumustdoitverycarefullytoavoidbreakingupthericegrains.

Sprinklewiththekewrawater,ifusing,garnishwithcashewnutsandsultanasandserve.

Note:Askyourbutchertocutshoulderchopsandmarrowbonesinto3cm(1¼in)pieces.

MeatKolhapuriServes4

ThisisaveryspicyhotredmeatcurryfromKolhapurinwesternIndia–reducethechilliifyouwouldlikeamedium–hotversion.IcameacrossthisrecipewhenIworkedinMumbaiduringthe1980s.ItwasquiteashocktomytameNorth-EastIndianpalate–andisawinnerattheSpiceKitchenwithallthemachomalediners.Servewithplentyofsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainrice.

1kg(2lb3oz)dicedbeef,lamborgoator1kg(2lb3oz)beef,lamborgoatchops,oracombinationofboth(seeNote)

2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil3largepotatoes,peeledandhalved8cloves,ground8blackpeppercorns,ground2tablespoonspoppyseeds,finelyground1tablespooncorianderseeds,ground1tablespoonfennelseeds,ground1–2tablespoonschillipowder,totastesmallhandfulcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped,togarnish

Marinade½–2teaspoonssalt,ortotaste2teaspoonsturmeric1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste

OnionandTomatoPaste2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil3largeonions,chopped45g(1½oz/½cup)desiccated(grateddried)coconut2tomatoes,chopped

Tomakethemarinade,mixtogetherthesalt,turmericandgingerandgarlicpastesinalargebowl.Addthemeatandstirtocoatthoroughly,thencoverandputintherefrigeratortomarinatefor1hour.

Tomaketheonionandtomatopaste,heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sauté the onion, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until brown. Stir in the coconut andtomatoandcookforabout2minutes.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittle,thentransferthemixturetoafoodprocessorandprocesstoapaste.Setaside.

Heattheoil inthesamesaucepanoverahighheat.Addthemeatwithitsmarinadeandthepotatoes,andstir-fryforabout8minutes,oruntilwellbrowned.

Reduce the heat to medium. Stir in the ground cloves, black pepper, ground poppy seeds, ground

corianderandfennel,chillipowder,thereservedonionandtomatopasteand250ml(8½floz/1cup)water.Coverandcookforabout45minutes,oruntilthemeatistender.

Garnishwiththecorianderleavesandservehot.

RoastedLambShankMasalaServes4

Thisisalovely,rich, fall-apart-tenderlambshankrecipeforverycolddays.AttheSpiceKitchenweroast the shanks in the tandoor before finishing the recipe by simmering them in the sauce. Thewonderfulcharcoalaromascannotbeduplicatedinaconventionaloven,butyoucoulduseabarbecueorchargrillpanifyoureallywantedtogetascloseaspossibletothosesmellsandflavours.ServewithplentyofChapattisorNaanandPulaoRice,plusaSpinachRaitaorleafygreensaladtofinishoffthisdelectabledish.

1kg(2lb3oz)lambshanks250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste½teaspoonmaceflakes1tablespooncuminseeds1tablespooncorianderseeds1teaspoonfenugreekseeds60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil4cloves4blackcardamompods2bayleaves2largeonions,sliced1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1teaspoonchillipowder2tablespoonsdesiccated(grateddried)coconut1½tablespoonsdarkrum1tablespoonkewrawater(optional)(seeNote)

Preheat theoven to160°C(320°F).Pierce the lambshanksalloverwitha forkandput inashallowdish. Inasmallbowl,mix together theyoghurtandsalt, thencoat the lambshankswith themixture.Coverandputintherefrigeratortomarinateforabout20minutes.

Transferthelambshankswiththemarinatingyoghurttoaroastingtin,pourin500ml(17floz/2cups)waterandroastintheovenfor1–1½hours,oruntilcooked.

Meanwhile,grindthemace,cumin,corianderandfenugreekusingamortarandpestleorelectricspicegrinderuntilfinelyground.Setaside.

About30minutesbefore the lambshankshavefinishedroasting,heat theoil ina largefryingpanorsaucepan over a medium heat. Sauté the cloves, cardamom pods, bay leaves and onion, stirring

occasionally,forabout8minutes,oruntil theonionisbrown.Stir inthegingerandgarlicpastesandcookfor1minute.

Stirinthereservedgroundspices,chillipowderandcoconutwith190ml(6½floz/¾cup)water.Coverandsimmeroveramediumheatforatleast15minutes.

Addtheroastedlambshanksandanycookingjuicesfromtheroastingtin,aswellastherumandkewrawater,ifusing,tothesauceinthepan.Stirtocoatandmixthrough,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerforafurther1hour.

Removethesaucepanfromtheheatandrestthelambshanksfor15minutesbeforeserving.

Note:Kewrawaterisextractedfromthekeoraflowerandisusedto flavourrichMughalcurriesandricedishes. It is less concentratedand lighter in flavour thankewraessence.Youcanpurchase it inAsianandIndiangrocerystores.Youcanomitthekewrawaterifyoudonothaveany,butitsinclusiondoesaddsomethingspecialtothecombinationofflavoursinthisdish.

PorkBellyandRibswithCurryLeaves,CoconutandTomatoServes4

Porkrespondsverywell to thespice treatment. Itsrich flavour isaccentuatedandcut throughat thesametimebythepungencyofthespices.Slightlyacidicflavourssuchastomato,tamarindorkokumareoften usedwith pork in Indian cooking. This simple South Indian dishuses fresh chillies, tomatoes,coconutandcurryleaves.Weserveitat theSpiceKitchenwithstringhoppers–steamedricenoodlepancakes.Youcouldserveitwithsteamedbasmatiorotherlong-grainriceandagreensalad,orwithricenoodles.

1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1tablespoonpalmsugarordarkbrownsugar½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste500g(1lb2oz)porkbelly,cutinto2.5cm(1in)pieces500g(1lb2oz)porkribs,cutinto2.5cm(1in)pieces2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil2onions,chopped100g(3½oz)freshcoconutflesh,diced(seeNote),or2tablespoonsdesiccated(grateddried)

coconut20curryleaves2largetomatoes,chopped4greenchillies,chopped2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves

Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).

Mixtogetherthegingerandgarlicpastes,sugarandsaltinalargebowl.Addtheporkbellyandribsandevenlycoatwiththepastemixture.

Puttheporkinaroastingtinandcookintheovenforabout30minutes,oruntiltender.Removefromtheovenandleavetheporktorestfor20minutes.Drainofforscoopoffanyfatanddiscard.

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addthecoconutandcook,stirring,for2minutes.

Stir in the curry leaves, tomato, chilli, coriander and roasted pork and cook for 5 minutes, stirringoccasionally.Servehot.

Note:Youshouldhaveabout1cupofdicedfreshcoconut.

PorkVindalooServes4

ThisPortuguese-inspireddishoriginated inGoa in thesixteenthcentury,heralding thearrivalof thechilli in Indiawithwhat isoneof thehottestdishes in the Indian repertoire.Firstmadealmost as apreservedpickle,tinyamountswereeatenwithlotsofbreadorrice.Graduallytheamountofchillihasbeen lessened to transform it into amain course curry, but it can still bring tears to the eyes. It istraditionallymadewith pork and redwine vinegar, but you can substitutebeef, goat, lamb, duck orvenisonifyouprefer.Serveitwithsteamedbasmatirice.

1kg(2lb3oz)dicedporkneck60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil1largeonion,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Marinade125ml(4floz/½cup)redwinevinegar1tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonsugar8greencardamompods8cloves5greenchillies,slittojustbelowthestalkarea,topandseedsleftintact

VindalooPaste2½teaspoonschillipowder2x5cm(2in)cinnamonsticks,finelyground1tablespoongroundcumin2tablespoonsturmeric2tablespoonsgingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste60ml(2floz/¼cup)redwinevinegar1tablespoonhotEnglishmustard

Tomakethemarinade,mixtogetherthevinegar,pepper,sugar,cardamompods,clovesandchilliesinalargebowl.

Addtheporkandstirtocoatthoroughly,thencoverandputintherefrigeratortomarinateforatleast4hours.

Tomake the vindaloo paste,mix together the chilli powder, cinnamon, cumin, turmeric, ginger andgarlicpastes,vinegarandmustardinasmallbowl.

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionally,forabout8minutes,oruntilbrown.Addthevindaloopasteandstir-fryforabout4minutes,oruntilthe

oilseparatesfromthespices.

Addtheporkwiththemarinadeandsalttothesaucepan,andstirtomixthrough.Ifnecessary,stirin60ml(2floz/¼cup)watertoobtainathicksauce.Coverandcookoveralowheatforabout45minutes,untiltheporkistender.Checkevery10–15minutesduringthecookingtimeandadd60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterwhennecessarysothecurrydoesnotdryoutandthesauceremainsthick–youshouldnotneedtoaddmorethan250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterintotal.Servehot.

KolkataPorkSausagesServes4

A Portuguese-inspired sausage dish, these are a specialty of Entally, a neighbourhood of Kolkata(Calcutta).Thesespicysausagesarearealhitatbreakfast,brunch,lunchordinner,andoncetasted,youwillbeaddicted.Youcanbuysausageskinsfromyourbutcher,andifyouhaveasausagemaker,homemade sausages are easy. This will also ensure that you only use the best cuts of meat in thesausages.Ifyoudon’thaveasausagemaker,youcanshapethemixtureintopatties,whichareequallydelicious.Servewithsteamedriceormashedpotato.

250g(9oz)minced(ground)porkbelly50g(1¾oz)porkfat,veryfinelydiced2onions,finelychopped2largehandfulsfinelychoppedmintleaves2largehandfulsfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonsfinelychoppedgreenchilli1teaspoongroundcinnamon2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste8sausageskins,fromthebutcher(optional)1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil(optional)

Inalargebowl,mixtogethertheporkbellyandfat,onion,mint,coriander,chilli,cinnamon,pepperandsalt.

Ifyouareusingasausagemaker,followthemanufacturer’sinstructionstoattachtheskintothesausagemaker,thenforcethesausagemixturethroughintotheskintoformthesausages.

Alternatively,dividethesausagemixtureintoeightportions.Dipyourhandsinwarmwaterand,usingthepalmsofyourhands,shapethemixtureintopatties.

Preheatagrill(broiler)orchargrillpantomedium.Cookthesausagesunderthegrilloronthechargrillpan,turningoccasionally,for20–30minutes,oruntiltheyarecookedthrough.(Theywilltakealittlelongertocookthanstore-boughtsausages.)

Ifyouhavemadepatties,cookthemunderthegrilloronthechargrillpanfor5minutes,thenturnandcookontheothersidefor3–5minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.

Alternatively,justcoverthebottomofalargefryingpanwithwaterandheatoveramediumheat.Cookthesausagesinthepan,turningoccasionally,for20–30minutes,oruntiltheyarecookedthrough.Addalittlemorewatertothepanasnecessary.

Tocookthepattiesusinganalternativemethod,heattheoilinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Cookthepattiesforaboutabout4minutes,oruntilbrowned,thenturnandcookontheothersidefor4minutes. Carefully pour in 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water, cover with a lid and cook for a further 2minutes.

Servethesausagesorpattieshot.

SIDEDISHES

By far themost common side dish servedwith an Indianmeal is rice. Steamed or fried, simple orelaboratewithmultipleingredients,thishumblegrainfeaturesheavilythroughoutIndiancuisine.

Therearemanyvarietiesof rice in India, from 'red'Kerala rice to simple long-grain rice.By far themost important andwell-known long-grain rice is basmati.This rice originates froma villageof thesamenameintheHimalayanfoothills,andhasalovelyelegantslenderstructure,isverylowinstarchandtheonlyricerecommendedfordiabeticsbecauseofitslowglycaemicindex.BasmatiriceisreadilyavailableinsupermarketsorIndiangrocerystores.Lookonthepackettoseetheageoftherice–newcropsorjust-harvestedriceshouldbestoredforuptofiveyearstoallowtheflavourstodevelopandthestarchcontenttolessen.Trytobuyalready-agedrice,whichhasacreamiercolourandisgenerallymoreexpensive.Agedricewillcookwithoutgettinggluggyorbreakingupandwillresultinanicerflavour.

Othersidedishescanincludelentils,vegetablesorsalads,andareoftenaccompaniedwithchutneystocontributetoalargerIndianfeast.VegetabledishessuchasPoppySeedPotatoes,fruitysaladssuchasMangoandPineappleSalad, aswell as the traditionalOnionSalad feature regularly.Finally, dal – asoupy lentil preparation – is probably the most popular comfort food and is served with almost allIndianmeals.

LemonRiceServes4

Ricerecipes thatusealready-cookedricearepopular inSouth India,and lemonrice isconsideredadelicacythere.Itisalovelywaytouseupleft-overrice.Iffreshlycooked,thericeshouldbeatroomtemperature–stirringthehottemperingthroughitwillheatitup.Youcanserveithotonabananaleafwithanassortmentofcurriesorjustwithyoghurtandpickle.Itisalsogreatasawarmorcoldsalad.

1teaspoonfenugreekseeds1tablespoonsplitwhitelentils(whiteuraddal),washedanddrained1teaspoonturmeric225g(8oz)cookedbasmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,atroomtemperature(seeNotes)juiceof2lemons2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil30g(1oz)rawcashewnuts30g(1oz)rawpeanuts½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tempering20curryleaves½teaspoonblackmustardseedspinchofasafoetida1tablespoonsplityellowpeaswashedanddrained2redchillies

Heatthefenugreekseedsandsplitwhitelentilsinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatfor1minute.Allowtocool,thengrindfinelywiththeturmericusingamortarandpestleoranelectricspicegrinder.

Put thecooked rice ina largebowlandstir through thegroundspicesandsplitwhite lentilsand thelemonjuice.

Heat the oil over a medium heat in the frying pan. Cook the cashew nuts and peanuts, stirringcontinuously, for about 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the nuts from the pan, drain onkitchentowelsandsetaside.

Using theoil in the fryingpan,make the tempering:add thecurry leaves,mustard seeds, asafoetida,split yellow peas and chillies to the pan and cook, stirring continuously, for 2minutes, or until themixtureisbrown.

Pourthetemperingovertherice,addthesaltandstirtomixtogetherthoroughly.

Garnishwiththereservedcashewnutsandpeanutsandserve.

Notes:InSouthIndiancooking,acontrastintextureisoftenprovidedbyaddinglentilsandpulsestocookedvegetables.Theyarenotnecessarilycookeduntilsoft.Instead,aswiththesplityellowpeasinthisrecipe,theyarewashedanddrained,andthenquicklyfriedinhotoilorgheefor1–2minutes.Thisgivesthemacrunchytexture,andastheyarefullycooked,theyarefinetoeat.

Youneed100g(3½oz)ofuncookedbasmatiricetoyield225g(8oz)ofcookedrice.

PulaoRiceServes4

Pulao,fromthePersianword‘pilaf’isthebeautiful,fragrant,separatedricethatiscookedwithsubtlespicesandeatenthroughoutIndia.ItisthemostpopularriceaccompanimenttobeservedatanIndianbanquet.Youcancookpulaoriceon thestovetopor in theoven,andvegetables suchaspotatoesorpeascanbeadded,too.Serveitwithallkindsofmeat,fishorvegetablecurries.

60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil4greencardamompods3cloves2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick200g(7oz/1cup)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Ifusingtheovenforthefinalstageofcookingtherice,preheatitto200°C(400°F).

Heatthegheeoroilinaflameproofcasseroledishoveramediumheatonthestovetop.

Addthecardamompods,cloves,cinnamonandriceandstir tomixthroughandcoateveryricegrainwiththegheeoroil.Pourin375ml(12½floz/1½cups)hotwater,thenaddthesaltandstir.Bringtoaboil.

Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookthericeonthestovetopforabout20minutes.Donotuncoverorstir to ensure that the rice cooks evenly anddoesnot breakup.Remove from theheat and rest, stillcovered, for 10minutes before serving. (This allows the rice grains to plump up to theirmaximumlength.)

Alternatively,coverthedishwithfoilonceithascometotheboil, thenput in theovenandcookforabout25minutes.Removethedishfromtheovenbutdonotremovethefoil,andrestthericefor10minutesbeforeserving.

Note:Tosteamricesuccessfully,youmustaddthecorrectamountofwater inproportion to therice.Forevery200g(7oz/1cup)ofrice,add375ml(12½floz/1½cups)water.

Variation: To recreate the yellow rice often found in Indian restaurants and takeaways, follow thisrecipebutaddapinchofturmericafteryou'veaddedthehotwater.

BlackpeppercornandCuminRiceServes4

ThereisalwayssteamedwhitericeleftoverinanIndianhome.Youcanaddallkindsofingredientstomakecomplexdishes,butareallygoodwaytorefreshleft-overriceiswiththissimplerecipe.Itissopopular thatsteamedrice isoftencookedspecifically tomake thisdish in itsownright. In theSpiceKitchenwearealwayssurprisedathowmanypeopleaskspeciallyforit.YoucanserveitaspartofanIndianmeal,butitisalsodeliciouswithasteworcasserole.

60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspooncuminseeds280g(10oz/1½cups)cookedbasmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heatthegheeoroilinawokorlargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthepeppercornsandcuminseedsandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout1minute.

Stirinthecookedriceandsaltandheatthrough,stirringcontinuouslytobreakupanylumpsofrice,forabout4minutes.Servehot.

Note:Youwillneed125g(4oz)ofuncookedricetoyield280g(10oz/1½cups)ofcookedrice.

TomatoPulaoRiceServes4

Of themany, many recipes for pulao rice, this version appeared at the time of the first PortuguesesettlementinIndia,aroundthesixteenthcentury.TherewerenotomatoesinIndiabeforethen.Anotherdistinctivefeatureofthisdishisstaranise,whichisnotcommonlyusedinIndiancooking.Arosyblushcoversthisspecialricedish.Serveitsimplywithadelicatekorma.

60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil2staranise4cloves2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick200g(7oz/1cup)basmatiriceorotherlong-grainrice,washedanddrained2garliccloves,chopped250g(9oz/1cup)tomatopurée(puréedtomatoes)or4tomatoes,skinandseedsremoved,puréed

(seeNote)½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1teaspoonsugar(optional)1teaspooncuminseeds,roastedandgroundFriedOnionstogarnish

Heatthegheeoroilinashallowheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Sautéthestaranise,cloves,cinnamonandrice,stirringcontinuously,untilthegheeoroilcoatseveryricegrain.

Stirinthegarlicand375ml(12½floz/1½cups)hotwater.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattoaslowaspossible,cover,andcookforabout15minutes,oruntilmostofthewaterisabsorbed.

Stir in thetomatopurée.Addthesaltandthesugar, ifdesired, if thetomatopuréeisverysour.(It isimportanttoaddthetomatoonlyatthisstage,otherwisethericemaynotcookevenly,astheacidinthetomato slows down the cooking process.) Cover the pan again and continue cooking for about 12minutes,oruntilalltheliquidisabsorbedandthericeisfullycooked.

Sprinkleoverthecumin,garnishwiththefriedonionsandservehot.

Note: If you are usingwhole tomatoes tomake the tomato purée, scorea cross in the base of eachtomato.Put inaheatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leave for30seconds, then transfer tocoldwater.Whencoolenoughtohandle,peeltheskinaway,startingfromthecross.Cutthetomatoinhalf,scoopouttheseedswithateaspoonanddiscard.Processthetomatofleshinafoodprocessortoformapurée.Youshouldhave250g(9oz/1cup)ofpurée.

RajmaDalServes4

Punjab is India’sagriculturalbowl.Punjabicuisineaboundswithnourishingandsatisfying country-stylerecipesthatuselocallygrowningredientssuchaschickpeasandredkidneybeans,wheatandcornflours, homemade ghee and panir cheese. Rajma dal is a Punjabi favourite – this simple dish issatisfyingandhealthy,fulloffibreandprotein.Youmaynothavetoworka12-hourdayonafarm,butyouwillcertainlygetenoughenergyfromthisdish,servedwithrice,tofacetheworldformanyhourstocome.

225g(8oz)driedor600g(1lb5oz)cannedredkidneybeans60g(2oz)gheeor60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableorcanolaoil(seeNote)1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonchillipowder1tablespoonjuliennedginger1largeonion,sliced60g(2oz/¼cup)tomatopaste(concentratedpurée)or2vine-ripenedtomatoes,chopped

If using dried red kidney beans, soak overnight in a bowl of cold saltedwater.Drain, then put in amediumsaucepanwith1.5litres(51floz/6cups)freshwater.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattomediumandcookuncovered,skimmingofftheresidueasitrisestothesurface,forabout2½hours,oruntil thebeansarereallytender–theyshouldbreakupeasilywhenpressedbetweenyourthumbandforefinger.Drainthecookedkidneybeans,reserving375ml(12½floz/1½cups)ofthecookingliquid.Alternatively,ifyouareusingcannedredkidneybeans,rinsethemwellincoldwateranddrain.

Heatthegheeoroiloveramediumheatinalargefryingpan.Addthecuminseeds,chillipowderandgingerandheatuntiltheybegintocrackle.Addtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout8minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Stirinthetomatopasteorchoppedtomatowith125ml(4floz/½cup)waterandsimmergentlyoveralowheatfor10minutes.Addthecookedkidneybeanswiththereservedcookingliquid,orthedrainedcannedkidneybeansalongwith250ml(8½floz/1cup)water,andsimmerforafurther20minutes.Servehot.

Note:Gheereallyispreferableforthisrecipe.Youcanreplaceitwithoil,butthefinalflavourwillnotbeasrich.

MasoorDalTarkewaliServes4

LentilsareanimportantpartoftheIndianmeal.Theyareagreatlevellerandcomfortfoodforboththestreetdwellerandthemillionaireinthepenthouse.Thesplitredlentils(masoordal)usedinthisrecipearesimilar to theredlentils foundinsupermarkets– theydonotneedsoakingandareeasy tocook.Theyarealsoveryeasytodigest,andinfact,inIndiathecookingwaterfromsplitredlentilsiscooledandgiventobabiesasasubstituteformilk.EatwithsteamedriceorhomemadeIndianbreadsuchasChapattis,andaccompanywithmeatandvegetabledishes.

250g(9oz/1cup)splitredlentils(masoordal)orredlentils,washedanddrained1teaspoonchoppedginger1teaspoonchoppedgarlic½smallonion,sliced1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tempering60g(2oz)gheeorsaltedbutter2teaspoonscuminseeds1onion,sliced1wholedriedredchillipinchofchillipowder2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves

Putthelentils,ginger,garlic,onionandturmeric,alongwith750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterinalargesaucepanandstir tocombine.Cookuncoveredoveramediumheatforabout45minutes,oruntil thelentilsarewellcookedanddisintegratingtoformapurée.Stirinthesalt.

Tomakethetempering,heatthegheeorbutterinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat.Cookthecuminseeds,onion,driedredchilliandchillipowder,stirringoccasionally,forabout6–8minutes,oruntiltheonionisgoldenbrown.Stirinthecorianderandcookfor1minute.

Pourthetemperingoverthecookeddalandserveimmediately.

SambarDalServes4

A sambar is a South Indian lentil preparation that usually includes vegetables and is flavouredwithtamarind. Almost any vegetable can be used in a sambar, and the tamarind provides tartness andpreservesthevitaminsofthecookedvegetables.SambarsareeateneitherwithsteamedbasmatiriceorservedwithdishessuchasUpmaorCabbageBondas.

125g(4½oz/½cup)splitredlentils(masoordal)orredlentils,washedanddrained1teaspoonturmeric½smalleggplant(aubergine),diced¼smallcauliflower,dividedintosmallflorets12greenbeans,trimmedanddiced1largetomato,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotastechoppedcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnish

SambarPaste2tablespoonssplityellowpeas¼teaspoongroundfenugreek1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin2tablespoonsgroundcoriander3tablespoonsdesiccated(grateddried)coconut1tablespoontamarindpulp

Tempering30g(1oz)gheeorsaltedbutter½teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds¼teaspoonfenugreekseeds2wholedriedredchillies20curryleaves1smallonion,chopped

Putthelentils,turmericand750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Bringtoaboilandcookuncoveredforabout30minutes,oruntilthelentilsaresoft.

Meanwhile, to make the sambar paste, grind the split yellow peas using a mortar and pestle or anelectric spice grinder. Transfer to a small bowl andmix together with the fenugreek, chilli powder,cumin,coriander,coconutandtamarindpulptoformapaste.

Whenthelentilsarecooked,stirinthesambarpaste,eggplant,cauliflower,greenbeansandtomatoandcookoveramediumheatfor15minutes.Addthesalttotaste.

About5minutesbefore the sambar is ready,make the tempering.Heat thegheeorbutter in a small

frying pan over a high heat. Add the mustard, cumin and fenugreek seeds, dried chillies and curryleaves,andheatuntiltheybegintocrackle.Immediatelyaddtheonionandsauté,stirringoccasionally,forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Pourthetemperingoverthesambar,garnishwiththechoppedcorianderandserve.

PoppySeedPotatoesServes4

AdistinctivepotatodishfromBengal,whichiseasybutspecial.Groundwhitepoppyseedsareusuallyused in rich kormas and curries for a nutty, creamy texture and taste. In this radically differentcombination, thehumblepotato is teamedwithwhitepoppy seeds,oneof theworld’smost luxuriousspices.ServethisdishaspartofanIndianmeal.

1tablespoonmustardoilorvegetableorcanolaoil(seeNote)1teaspoonnigella(kalonji)1teaspoonchoppedgreenchilli1tablespoonwhitepoppyseeds,finelyground4largepotatoes,peeledanddiced½teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheat.Ifyouareusingmustardoil,waituntilitissmoking.Reduce theheat tovery lowandadd thenigella andgreenchilli, then immediately stir in thepoppyseeds.

Stirinthepotato,turmeric,saltand125ml(4floz/½cup)water.Coverandcookoveraverylowheatforabout20minutes,oruntilthepotatoissoftandthewaterisabsorbed.Servehot.

Note:Youcansubstitutevegetableorcanolaoilforthemustardoil,but thedishwillhaveadifferentandlessdistinctiveandauthenticflavourthanifyouusemustardoil.

PotatoeswithCuminSeedsServes4

Whendesigning theperfectmenu,weoftenneedavegetableaccompaniment thatwillnot takeawayfrom themainevent.This is just sucha recipe.Delicious in itsownright, italsocomplementsmanyotherflavours,soyoucaneitherserveitsimplywithPoorisorParathas,ormakeitpartofanIndianmeal.

15g(½oz)gheeor1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil1wholedriedredchilli1teaspooncuminseeds4largepotatoes,peeledanddiced1teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heatthegheeoroilinasmallwokorfryingpanwithatight-fittinglidoveramediumheat.Addthechilliandcuminseedsandheatuntil theybegintocrackle.Immediatelyaddthepotato,turmeric,saltand60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterandstirtomixthrough.

Reducetheheattolow,coverthewokorpantightlyandcookforabout20minutes,oruntilthepotatoissoft.Serveimmediately.

SpinachKadhiServes4

Kadhi isagreat substitute fordaland isofteneatenwithsteamedrice.Themostpopularversionofkadhi is made with besan (chickpea flour) dumplings. This recipe uses spinach, and is a deliciousspeedyalternative.Usewhiteradish(daikon)ormustardgreensinstead,ifyouprefervegetableswithaslightlybitterflavour.

110g(4oz/1cup)besan(chickpeaflour)125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt1teaspoonturmeric30g(1oz)gheeor1½tablespoonsmustardoil1smallonion,sliced1teaspooncuminseeds2driedwholeredchilliespinchofasafoetida½–1teaspoonsalt,totaste50g(1¾oz)Englishspinach,washed,drainedandfinelychopped1tablespoonchoppedmintleaves

Inalargebowlmixtogetherthebesan,yoghurt,turmericand500ml(17floz/2cups)watertomakeasmoothpaste.

Heatthegheeoroilinamediumsaucepanoveramediumheat.Sautétheonion,stirringoccasionallyforabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addthecuminseeds,chilliesandasafoetida,andstirtomixwell. Add the paste, salt and another 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water to obtain a thin sauce-likeconsistency.

Cook, stirring continuously, for about 30minutes, or until the kadhi thickens. The final consistencyshouldbelikeathicksoup.

Addthespinachandmintandbrieflybringtotheboil.Removefromtheheatandserveimmediately.

MangoandPineappleSaladServes4

SaladsareeatenwiththemealalloverIndia,especiallyinthenorth,southandwest.Theyprovideafresh, crisp, sweet, sour or tangy taste aswell as textural excitement,which contrastwell with, andhelpstocutthrough,therichnessofIndianfood.Saladsmaybecookedorraw,usingvegetables,fruits,sproutedlentilsorevenpuffedorflattenedrice.MostpeopleoutsideofIndiadonotappreciatethewidevariety of salad dishes eaten routinely in Indian homes. Serve this tangy, sweet, spicy salad as anaccompanimenttoameal,orasanappetiser.

2driedwholeredchillies¼teaspoonblackmustardseeds60ml(2floz/¼cup)unsweetenedpineapplejuice1mango,peeledandstoneremoved,diced1smallpineapple,peeledandcentralcoreremoved,diced125g(4½oz)freshcoconutflesh,diced½teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshgingerjuiceof1lime80g(2¾oz/½cup)unsaltedroastedpeanuts(optional)

Tempering1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds10curryleaves

Heatthechilliesinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatfor1minute.Allowtocool,thengrindfinelywiththemustardseedsusingamortarandpestleoranelectricspicegrinder.

Transfer to a large bowl and graduallywhisk in the pineapple juice. (Whisk vigorously so the juiceformsanemulsionwiththespices,ratherthanbeingaliquidwithbitsofspicefloatinginit.)Addthemango,pineapple,coconutandginger,pouroverthelimejuiceandtosstocombinewell.

Tomakethetempering,heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthemustardseedsandcurryleavesandheatuntiltheybegintocrackle.

Scatterthepeanuts,ifusing,overthesalad,thenimmediatelypourthetemperingoverandserve.

OnionSaladServes4

MostIndiansarepartialtothecrunchofrawred(Spanish)onionsinasalad.Itaddstasteandtexturewheneatenwithcurries,kababsorsnacks.Othermembersofthealliumfamilyincludingshallots,redonionsorevenleeksandspringonions(scallions)canbeusedforvariationsintextureandflavour.Theraw tasteof theonion ismitigatedbycombining itwith theacidityofdifferent vinegarsor lemonorlimejuice.

2largered(Spanish)onions,slicedjuiceof1limepinchofchaatmasala1tablespoonfinelychoppedmintleaves1tablespoonfinelychoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves1tablespoonfinelychoppedredorgreenchilli½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Tosstogethertheonion,limejuice,chaatmasala,mint,coriander,chilliandsaltinaservingbowl.

Leaveatroomtemperaturefor20minutestoallowtheflavourstocombinealittle,thenserve.

ACCOMPANIMENTS

Thediversityofflavours, texturesandtemperatures inIndiancuisinecan, inpart,beattributedtothevastarrayofaccompanimentsthatcomeintheformoffreshsauces,dips,chutneys,breadsandraitasthatareservedalongsidecurriesandsidedishes.NoIndianmealiscompletewithoutthem.

Theterm‘chutney’isusedverylooselyinIndiaandrefersnotjusttostore-boughtpreservedchutneys,butalsohomemadefreshfruitandvegetablechutneyssuchasPlumChutneyandEggplantChutney,ordipping sauces made with fresh herbs such as Green Chutney and yoghurts with spice and herbinfusions.

To accompany these sauces the importance of bread cannot be underestimated in an Indian meal,especiallyinthenorth,wherericeiseatenlessfrequently.Plain(all-purpose)flour,wholemeal(whole-wheat)flour,attaflourorevenbesan(chickpeaflour)isusedtomakeleavenedorunleavened,baked,pan-cookedorfriedbreads,whichmaybeservedtoaccompanyvegetables,lentilsormeat,orevenjustrolledwithbutterandjamforasimpletea-timetreat.

The accompaniments in this chapter are quick and easy to prepare.Make sure you use the freshestseasonalingredientsavailabletoallowthesimpleflavourstoshinethrough.Mixandmatchbreadswithraitas,ortrymakingyourownchutneysinadditiontotherecipesinthischapterbyexperimentingwithleft-overfruitsandvegetablesinyourkitchen.Onceyoumasterthetechniqueofmakingthem,youwillneverreturntostore-boughtchutneys.

TamarindandGingerChutneyMakes250ml(8½floz/1cup)

Thispiquant,sweet-and-sourfreshchutneycomesfromNorthIndia.Itisanimportantpartofchaat,thefamous street food that brings together crisp, savoury discsmadeof semolina orplain (all-purpose)flourwithroastedvegetables,puffedriceandfriedbesan(chickpeaflour)vermicelli.Aswellasbeinganintegralpartofchaat,thischutneygoeswellwithsalads,potatopatties,boiledchickpeas,PakorasandVegetableSamosas.

100g(3½oz)driedtamarind1tablespoonchoppedfreshginger1teaspoonchillipowder1teaspoonchaatmasala100g(3½oz)sugarbananaslicestogarnish

Putthedriedtamarind,ginger,chillipowder,chaatmasala,sugarand500ml(17floz/2cups)waterinasmallsaucepan.Stiruntilthesugarhasdissolved,thenbringtoaboiloverahighheat.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor30minutes.

Strainthemixturethroughameshstrainertogiveahomogenousthickliquid,withoutanyseeds,fleshor fibres from the tamarindorginger.Chill thechutney in the refrigerator forat least20minutes,oruntilreadytoserve.Garnishwithbananaslicesbeforeserving.

MintChutneyMakes250ml(8½floz/1cup)

Dark greenmint chutney is a refreshing, bold dipping sauce, which accompanies fried starters andtandoorikababs,or isused inchaat (seeopposite). Indiancookingdependsonmanyextras, suchasthisone,toprovideaclean,contrastingflavour.InIndiatheterm‘chutney’describesawiderangeofaccompaniments. It can include long-lasting chutneys in jars, other chutneys that are fresh andwillkeepfortwotothreemonths,andstillothersthatarereallydippingoraccompanyingsauces,suchasthisone.Thischutneywillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptofourdays.

50g(1¾oz)mintleavesjuiceof1lemonorlime1clovegarlic1tablespoonsugar1teaspoonsalt2greenchillies

Processthemint,lemonorlimejuice,garlic,sugar,saltandchillieswith125ml(4floz/½cup)waterinafoodprocessortoformasmoothpaste.

Chill thechutney in the refrigerator for20minutes,until the flavourshave infused,oruntil ready toserve.

GreenChutneyMakes375ml(13floz/1½cups)

FoundinalmosteveryIndianrestaurantandtakeaway,greenchutneyistheperfectaccompanimentforfriedfoodssuchasVegetableSamosasorPakoras,ortandoori foods.Followthisrecipeandyouwillfindyourselftakentoawholenewflavourlevelaltogether.Serveitchilledwithsnacksandstarters.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptofourdays.

25g(1oz)choppedmintleaves25g(1oz)choppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves2greenchillies,chopped1garlicclove,chopped1smallonion,chopped1tablespoonsugar1teaspoonsalt125g(4½oz/½cup)plainyoghurt

Put the mint, coriander, chilli, garlic, onion, sugar, salt and yoghurt in a food processor, and blendtogethertoformacompletelysmoothpaste,withnoflecksofchoppedherbsvisible.

Chill thechutney in the refrigerator for30minutes,until the flavourshave infused,oruntil ready toserve.

Note:Itisimportanttochopupalltheingredientsbeforeblendingthem.Thisissoyoucanproducethesmoothestpastepossibleusingtheleastamountofliquid.Thiswillnotworkefficientlyiflargebunchesofherbsareputinthefoodprocessor.

CoconutChutneyMakes250ml(8½floz/1cup)

Fresh coconut chutney, just temperedwithherbsandspices, has an important place in South Indiancooking.Thefreshflavourofcoconutgivesasoothingfeeltosnacksandstarters.Thechutneywillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptotwodays.

45g(1½oz/½cup)desiccated(grateddried)coconutor60g(2oz)freshlygratedcoconut1smallgreenchilli1teaspoonchoppedfreshginger½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil12curryleaves2wholedriedredchillies½teaspoonblackmustardseeds

Processthecoconut,greenchilli,gingerandsaltinafoodprocessor,addingupto250ml(8½floz/1cup)warmwateralittleatatimeuntilthemixtureformsafinelygroundpaste.Transfertoabowl.

Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthecurryleaves,driedchilliesandmustardseeds,andheatuntiltheybegintocrackle.Immediatelypouroverthecoconutmixtureandstirthroughtocombine.

Serveatroomtemperature.

PlumChutneyMakes1litre(34floz/4cups)

AttheSpiceKitchenwemakeallourownfruitchutneysandweuseanyseasonalfruitthatisavailable.Someofourchutneysarebottled to sell,butmostareservedasaccompanimentsat therestaurant. IlovethisplumchutneywithasimplemeatcurrysuchasLambKataMasala.Plumchutneyandotherfruit chutneyswill generally keep in the refrigerator for up to threeweeks. They are eaten in largerquantitiesthantheirsharper,hottercousins,andaddmoreliquidtothemeal.

2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoil2.5cm(1in)cinnamonstick4cloves1smallonion,diced500g(1lb2oz)plums,halvedandstoned220g(8oz/1cup)sugar1teaspoonchillipowder1tablespoongingerpaste1tablespoongarlicpaste1½tablespoonswhitevinegar

Heat theoil in a large saucepanover amediumheat.Sauté the cinnamon, cloves andonion, stirringoccasionally,forabout2minutes,oruntiltheonionistranslucent.

Addtheplums,sugar,chillipowder,gingerandgarlicpastesandvinegar,andstiruntil thesugarhasdissolved.Cookoveramediumheatforabout45minutes,oruntiltheplumsaresoftandalmostalloftheliquidhasevaporated.

Leavethechutneytocoolbeforeserving–thereisnoneedtoremovethewholespices.

DahiChutneyMakes500ml(17floz/2cups)

Dahichutneyisachoppedcorianderandmintchutneywithgreenchilliesandyoghurt.Itisquitespicyand is traditionally servedwithHyderabadi biryani. It is thickerand chunkier thanGreenChutney,morelikearaitaintexture.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptotwodays.

250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt1onion,chopped2greenchillies,choppedsmallhandfulmintleaves,choppedsmallhandfulcoriander(cilantro)

leaves,chopped½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Mixtogethertheyoghurt,onion,chilli,mint,corianderandsaltinasmallbowl.

Chill thechutney in the refrigerator for15minutes,until the flavourshave infused,oruntil ready toserve.

SesameChutneyMakes185ml(6½floz/¾cup)

AlthoughnotaspopularastheubiquitousGreenChutney,thisisneverthelessadeliciouslyherby,nuttycomplementtokababsandroastedmeatdishes.Itcanalsobeusedasadeliciousdipforvegetables–anIndiantahiniwithspice.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptotwodays.

1tablespoonsesameseeds,roastedandcoarselyground3greenchillieslargehandfulmintleaves1smallonion,chopped1tablespoonchoppedgarlic2tablespoonstamarindpulp½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Putthesesameseeds,chillies,mint,onion,garlicandtamarindinafoodprocessorandprocesstomakeasmoothpaste.Transfertoabowl,addthesaltandmixtogetherwell.

Serveatroomtemperatureorchillintherefrigeratoruntilreadytoserve.

EggplantChutneyMakes1litre(34floz/4cups)

Indianhomesaboundwithchutneysandpicklesthataddanotherdimensiontoeverydayeating.Freshchutneyscanbemadewithanyvegetablesinseason,andinfact,theyareagoodwayofusingupexcessgardenproduce.Youcouldusecarrots, tomatoes, turnips, cauliflowerorpumpkin (winter squash) tomake chutneys and relishes.Vegetable chutneyswill generally keep in therefrigerator for about twomonths.Thiseggplantchutney,however,mustbeservedfresh,andwillonlykeepintherefrigeratorforoneday.ServeitasadiportoaccompanyanIndianmeal.

2eggplants(aubergines)45g(1½oz/½cup)desiccated(grateddried)coconutor60g(2oz)freshlygratedcoconut2wholedriedredchillies,roasted¼teaspoongingerpaste¼teaspoongarlicpaste2teaspoonstamarindpulp40g(1½oz/¼cup)unsaltedroastedpeanuts2tablespoonspalmsyrupordarkbrownsugarormolasses½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Roasttheeggplantwholeinaheavy-basedfryingpanorchargrillpanoveramediumheat,orunderthegrill(broiler),forabout20minutes,oruntilsoftandtheskinischarred.Turnonlyonceortwiceduringcooking.Allowtocool, thencut inhalf.Scoopout thefleshwithaspoon,choproughlyandreserve.Discardtheskin.

Puttheeggplantflesh,coconut,chillies,gingerandgarlicpastes,tamarind,peanuts,palmsyrupordarkbrownsugarormolassesandsaltinafoodprocessor,andprocesstoformathick,chunkyconsistencyor,moretraditionally,asmoothpaste.Serveatroomtemperature.

TomatoChutneyMakes500ml(17floz/2cups)

A traditional menu in Bengal always starts with something bitter, using vegetables, and endswithsomething sweet.This is truewhetheryouareeatinganeveryday lunchordinner,orcelebrating anevent,suchasawedding.TomatochutneyisamustattheendoftheBengalimealanditisdeliciouslyfresh.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptooneweek.

1tablespoonmustardoilorvegetableorcanolaoil1teaspoonpanchphoron2wholedriedredchillies1tablespoongingerpaste4largetomatoes,roughlychopped110g(4oz/½cup)sugar½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. If you are using mustard oil, wait until it issmoking.Heatthepanchphoronandchilliesuntiltheybegintocrackle.Immediatelystirinthegingerpasteandsautéfor2minutes.

Stirinthetomato,sugarandsalt,andcook,stirringoccasionally,for10minutes,oruntilthetomatoissoft.Removefromtheheatandleavetocool.

Serveatroomtemperature.

LimeJuiceChutneyMakes250ml(8½floz/1cup)

Picklesandchutneysareanintegralpartofawell-balancedIndianmeal.Contrastingtastes, texturesand temperaturesall play theirpart inmakingyourplate tantalisinglyappealing to your tastebuds.Withmostchutneys,youstartoutwithwholeingredients,suchasherbs,vegetablesorfruit,whicharechoppedandthenprocessedtoapaste.Thisrecipeisanexceptionbecauseitstartswithajuice–limejuice. The resulting syrupy consistency is fantastic for serving as a dipping sauce for MasalaPappadums or drizzled over fried fish or prawns (shrimp). Lime juice chutney will keep in therefrigeratorforatleastonemonth.

1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds250ml(8½floz/1cup)limejuice220g(8oz/1cup)sugar1teaspoonasafoetida1teaspoonchillipowder½teaspoonturmeric½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heattheoilinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Addthemustardseedsandheatuntiltheybegintocrackle.Immediatelyaddthelimejuice,sugar,asafoetida,chillipowder,turmericandsalt,andstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.

Reducetheheattolowandcookuncoveredforabout30minutes,oruntiltheliquidhasthickenedtoasyrup.

Cool,thenchillintherefrigeratorforatleast20minutes,oruntilreadytoserve.

CucumberRaitaMakes500ml(17floz/2cups)

NotmanymealsinIndiawouldbecompletewithoutyoghurtinsomeform.Thismightbeplainyoghurt,araitaorasweetenedyoghurt.MostIndianfamiliessettheirownyoghurtathome,butagood-qualitystore-bought organic yoghurt is a perfectly acceptable alternative. The most popular of all raitas,cucumber raita, goes especiallywellwith chickencurries.Make sure youremove the seeds from thecucumberoruseaseedlessvariety.Andanyleft-overraitawillkeepintherefrigeratorforuptothreedays.

250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt½cucumber,peeledifdesiredandseedsremoved,grated(seeNote)1tablespoonfinelychoppedonion½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds,roastedandground2teaspoonscuminseeds,roastedandground¼teaspoonredchillipowder

Puttheyoghurt,cucumber,onion,saltandallbutapincheachoftheyellowmustard,cuminandchillipowderinasmallbowl.Mixtogether,thenchillintherefrigeratorforatleast20minutes,oruntilreadytoserve.

Transfer theraita toaservingbowl,sprinkleover theremainingpinchofyellowmustard,cuminandchillipowder,andserve.

Note:Raitasaremeant tobeofapouringconsistency–not too thick.But ifyoupreferamoresolidtextureandconsistency,squeezethegratedcucumberbetweenyourpalmstoremovealltheliquidfromitbeforemixingwiththeyoghurt.

Variation:TomakeaSpinachRaita,heat2teaspoonsofcanolaoilinasmallfryingpanandgentlyfry50g(1¾oz)babyspinachwith½teaspoongarlicpasteand1wholeredchilliuntil thespinachhaswilted.Leave to cool, then transfer toa smallbowlandadd the yoghurt, stirringgently to combine.Seasontotaste,andchillfor20minutesoruntilreadytoserve.

BoondiRaitaMakes500ml(17floz/2cups)

Raitas are yoghurt salads eatenwith themainmeal to provide a fresh balance for the palate.Plainyoghurtmaybecombinedwith rawsaladvegetables, steamedor roastedvegetables suchas cornoreggplant (aubergine), fruit and sometimes even seafood or bone marrow. Boondi raita comes fromNorthIndia.Itisamixofboondis–whicharetinyballs,ordroplets,ofbesan(chickpeaflour),deep-fried–plainyoghurtandspices.Eventhoughsomepeoplethinkofraitasasbeing‘cooling’andthusunspiced,agoodraitawillalwayshaveoneortwospicestoenhanceitsmainingredients.

Boondis110g(4oz/1cup)besan(chickpeaflour)pinchofsaltvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Raita250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste½teaspoonyellowmustardseeds,roastedandground1teaspooncuminseeds,roastedandground¼teaspoonredchillipowder

Tomaketheboondis,whisktogetherthebesan,saltand125ml(4floz/½cup)waterinamediumbowltomakeastiffbatter.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto200°C(400°F).Usingafryingspoonwithroundholes(seeNote),getaspoonfulofbatter,holditoverthewokordeep-fryer(about10cm/4infromthehotoiltoavoidsplashing)andpressdownonthebatterwithaladleorotherobjectwithaflatunbrokensurfacetoforcethe batter through the holes in the frying spoon. Little balls of batterwill drop into the hot oil andsolidify immediately.Deepfry until golden brown, turning frequentlywith a clean slotted spoon, forabout1minute.Removefromtheoilanddrainonkitchentowels.Leavetocoolwhiledeep-fryingtheremainingboondibatter.

Soaktheboondisinabowlofwarmwaterfor10minutes,untiltheyswelltoaboutdoubletheirsize.Gentlysqueezetheboondistoremoveexcesswater,beingcarefulnottobreakthem.

Tomaketheraita,puttheyoghurt,boondis,saltandallbutapincheachoftheyellowmustard,cuminandchillipowderinasmallbowl.Mixtogether,thenchillintherefrigeratorforatleast15minutes,oruntilreadytoserve.

Transfer theraita toaservingbowl,sprinkleover theremainingpinchofyellowmustard,cuminandchillipowder,andserve.

Note:Thereareboondispoonsspeciallydesignedtomakethisdish,butany fryingspoonwithround

holeswillwork.LookforaslottedspoonwithroundholesinIndianandAsiangrocerystores.

NaanMakes4–6

Naan isa leavenedbread,madewithplain (all-purpose)wheat flourandcookedon thewallsof thetandooroven.Realnaanneedsatandoor,wherethetemperaturescanreachupto400°C(750°F),anditisimpossibletoreplicatethisathome.Butthisrecipeisthenextbestthingifyoureallywanttomakefreshnaan.Itisperfectwithanybarbecuedortandoorifood,kababs,kormasandrichcurries.

225g(8oz/1½cups)plain(all-purpose)flour75g(2¾oz/½cup)self-raisingflourpinchofsalt1teaspoonsugar250ml(8½floz/1cup)milk1tablespoonplainyoghurt1egg1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoil1tablespoonnigella(kalonji)meltedbutterforglazing

Mixtogether theplainandself-raisingflours,saltandsugar ina largebowl, thenmakeawell in thecentre.Addthemilk,yoghurt,eggandoilandworkthroughthedryingredientstocombine,addingalittlemoremilk if necessary to form a soft dough.Turn out onto a lightly flouredwork surface andknead for 10minutes, or until the dough feels smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a clean bowl,coverwithadampclothandsetaside inawarmplace to rise for8hours.Thedoughshould risebyabouthalfitssize,andwillhaveayeastysmellandfeelmorepliable.

Dividethedoughinto4–6ballsabout5cm(2in)indiameter,coverwithadampclothandrestfor20minutes.

Putaheavybakingtrayunderthegrill(broiler)and,beingsuretoleavethegrilldooropen,preheatthegrilltohighforatleast20minutes.Alternatively,putaheavybakingtrayonthetopshelforrackoftheoven,closethedoorandpreheattheovento200°C(400°F).

Pressouteachdoughballwithyourfingerstoshapeitintoatriangleabout5mm(¼in)thick.Sprinklewithalittlewater,andthensprinkleoverthenigella(thewaterhelpsthenigellatosticktothedough).Placeontheheavybakingtrayandgrillunderthegrillorbakeonthetopshelfoftheovenforabout2minutes,oruntilbrownflecksappearonthesurface,thenturnoverandgrillorbakeonthetopshelfforafurther40seconds.

Brushwithalittlemeltedbutterandserveimmediately.

Variations: To make garlic naan, brush a triangle of dough with½ teaspoon garlic paste beforecooking.

Tomake cheesenaan, stuff the centreof eachdoughballwith2 tablespoonsgratedmature cheddar

cheesebeforerestingfor20minutes,thencontinueasfortherecipeabove.

ChapattisMakes4–6

This favourite home-style flat bread is made from unleavened atta flour, a finely groundwholemeal(whole-wheat)flourmadefromdurumwheat.Traditionally,chapattisareservedfreshfromthekitchenone at a time and are usually pounced upon as soon as they hit the table. If you can’t eat them allstraightaway,youcanfreezethem,thenthawasneededandreheatinthemicrowave.

150g(5½oz/1cup)attaflourgheetoserve(optional)

Puttheflourinalargebowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Graduallypourin125ml(4floz/½cup)waterwhileworkingintheflour,addingalittlemorewaterifnecessarytoformasoftdough.Turnoutonto a lightly flouredwork surface and knead for 15minutes, or until the dough is pliable and notsticky.Placethedoughinacleanbowl,coverwithadampclothandrestfor30minutes.

Dividethedoughinto4–6balls,eachaboutthesizeofagolfball.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rollouteachpieceofdoughuntilitisthinlikeatortilla,andabout18cm(7in)indiameter.

Heataheavy-based fryingpanoveramediumheat.Dry-cookeachchapatti forabout1minute, thenturnoverandcooktheothersideforafurther40seconds,carefullypressingdownaroundtheedgesofthechapattiwithacleanteatowel(dishtowel)untilitpuffsupinthecentre.

Spreadwithalittleghee,ifdesired,andserveimmediately.

PoorisMakes10

Poorisareaquintessentialstreetfood,friedinopenkitchensincitycafés,oronfoodcartsintrainandbusstations.Theyareatraditionalpartofthethalimeal–anarrayoffiveorsixcurries,bothmeatandvegetarian,presentedinlittlebowlsoronametalplatealongwithrice,picklesandchutneys.Poorisareusuallyservedwithasimplepotatoorpumpkincurry,sometimeswithsweetdishessuchasaricepudding,ormost simplyofall, just sprinkledwithsugar.Theycanbecoveredwithplasticwrapandkept at room temperature for six to eighthours. If you are keeping them for longer, put them in therefrigerator,wheretheywilllastforuptotwodays.

150g(5½oz/1cup)attaflourpinchofsalt30g(1oz)gheeor2tablespoonsvegetableorcanolaoilvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Puttheflour,saltandgheeoroilinalargebowl.Graduallypourin125ml(4floz/½cup)waterwhileworkingtheingredientstogether,addingalittlemorewaterifnecessarytomakeastiffbutnotstickydough,whichisnotverypliablebutholdstogetherwell.Turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceand knead for 5 minutes, or until the dough feels smooth and holds together as one piece withoutsticking.Placethedoughinacleanbowl,coverwithadampclothandrestfor20minutes.

Dividethedoughinto10balls,eachaboutthesizeofalargemarble.Onalightlyoiledworksurface,rollouteachpieceofdoughwitharollingpintoformasmallcircleabout5cm(2in)indiameterand1cm(½in)thick.

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto200°C(400°F).

Deep-fryeachpoori for about40 seconds,oruntilgoldenbrownandpuffedup, turningoncewithaslottedspoonandusingthespoontolightlypressdownonthepooriasitpuffsup.Removefromtheoilanddrainonkitchentowels.Servehot.

MissieRotiMakes6–8

InNorthIndia,manykindsofflourareusedtomakebreads.ThisisapartofIndiawherehardlyanyriceiseatenatall.Atta(fromdurumwheat),corn,besan(chickpeaflour),millet,rye,ragi(fromfingermillet)andotherfloursallproducehearty,peasant-stylebreads.Missierotiisarustic,home-stylespicyflatbread,lowincarbohydrates,thathighlightsthenuttyflavourofbesan.Servewithplainyoghurtforaquicksnack,breakfastorbrunchdish.

150g(5½oz/1cup)attaflourorplain(all-purpose)flour(seeNote)55g(2oz/½cup)besan(chickpeaflour)½teaspoonchilliflakespinchofasafoetida½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste1tablespoondriedfenugreekleavesgheeorplainyoghurttoserve

Puttheattaorplainflour,besan,chilli,asafoetidaandsaltinalargebowl.Crushthefenugreekleavesbetweenyourhandsandaddtothebowl,thenmixtogether.Graduallypourin190ml(6½floz/¾cup)waterwhileworkingtheingredientstogether,addingalittlemorewaterifnecessarytomakeaflexibledough that does not stick to the sides of the bowl.Turn out onto a lightly flouredwork surface andkneadfor10minutes,oruntilpliablebutnotsticky.Placethedoughinacleanbowl,coverwithadampclothandrestfor30minutes.

Dividethedoughinto6–8balls,eachaboutthesizeofagolfball.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rollouteachpieceofdoughuntilitisthinlikeatortillaandabout6–8cm(2½in–3¼in)indiameter.(Thisdoughisnotelastic,andsotherotimaybeirregularorslightlycracked,whichsuitsthisrustic,stronglyflavouredbread.)

Heataheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Dry-cookeachroti forabout1minute, thenturnandcooktheothersideforafurther1minute.Thebreadisdonewhenit lightensincolourandlittlebrownflecksappearonthesurface.

Spreadeachrotiwithalittlegheebeforeserving,orservewithyoghurtontheside.

Note:Youcanuseplainflourinsteadofattaflour,buttherotiswillhaveaslightlydifferenttasteandtexture.

ParathasMakes6–8

Parathas – plain orwholemeal (whole-wheat) unleavened bread – are eaten for breakfast, lunchordinner. They are also great for picnics and travel snacks. Spread a paratha with yoghurt or yourfavourite fruit jam, eat it simplywith vegetables, or roll up a paratha ‘wrap’. You can alsouse thisrecipeasthebasisformakingstuffedparathas(seeVariationbelow).

300g(10oz/2cups)attaflour1teaspoonsalt125g(4½oz/½cup)gheeadditionalattaflourfordusting

Mixtogethertheflourandsaltinalargebowl,thenmakeawellinthecentre.Add2tablespoonsofthegheeandgraduallypourin190ml(6½floz/¾cup)warmwaterwhileworkingtheingredientstogether,addingmorewaterasnecessarytomakeapliabledoughthatdoesnotsticktothesideofthebowl.Turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadfor5minutes.Placethedoughinacleanbowl,coverwithadampclothandrestfor30minutes.

Divide thedough into6–8balls,eachabout thesizeofagolfball.Usinga rollingpin, rollouteachpieceofdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfacetoformasmallcircleabout5cm(2in)indiameter.Spreadwithalittlegheeandfoldinhalftoformahemisphere,thenspreadwithgheeandfolditinhalfagaintoformatrianglewithacurvededge.Dustwithattaflourandrolloutintoatrianglethatis3mm(⅓8in)thick.

Heat a heavy-based frying pan over amediumheat.Dry-cook each paratha on one side for about 1minute,thenspreadwithalittleoftheremainingghee,turnoverandcooktheothersidefor1minute.Itiscookedwhenlightbrownflecksappearontheunderside.Spreadtheuppersidewithalittleghee,turnoveragainandcookforafurther30seconds.Serveimmediately.

Variation: You can make stuffed parathas with fillings such as mashed potato, grated radish orcauliflowermixedwithalittlesaltandchillipowder.Put1teaspoonoffillinginthemiddleofa5cm(2in)circleofdough,thengatheruptheedgesofthecirclearoundthestuffingandbringthemtogetherandsealintolittleballs.Rolloutintoathincircularshape,dustwithattaflourandfollowthecookinginstructionsforplainparathas.

BhaturasMakes4–6

Aleaveneddeep-friedbreadthatusesplain(all-purpose)flour,thebhaturaiscookedinlittlecafésalloverDelhiandPunjab.Itisaquintessentialstreetfood,soldfromroadcarts.Universitystudentsandofficeworkersqueueupforhoursforbhaturaandchickpeas.Everyonehasafavouritevendorandthemeritsofeacharehotlydebated.ServethemwithChickpeaMasala.

300g(10½oz/2cups)plain(all-purpose)flour75g(2¾oz/½cup)self-raisingflour1teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonsugar60g(2oz/¼cup)plainyoghurt30g(1oz)gheeorvegetableorcanolaoilvegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying

Mixtogether theplainandself-raisingflours,saltandsugar, thenmakeawell in thecentre.Addtheyoghurt,gheeoroil,and625ml(21floz/2½cups)warmwaterandworkthroughthedryingredientstocombine,addinga littlemorewater ifnecessary.Kneadfor8minutes to formastickydough.Coverwithadampcloth,thensetasideinawarmplacetoriseforatleast2hours,oruntilit ispliableandstretchy.

Turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadthedoughagainfor5minutes.Divideitinto4–6ballsabout3cm(1¼in)indiameter,coverwithadampclothandrestfor10–15minutes.

Oilthepalmsofyourhands,thenpressandspreadouteachballofdoughwithyourfingerstoformacircleabout10cm(4in)indiameterand5mm(¼in)thick.Alternatively,rollouteachpieceofdoughwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurface.

Heattheoil inawokordeep-fryerto200°C(400°F).(It iscrucialthatthesebreadsaredeep-friedinveryhotoil.)

Carefullyputaroundofdoughintheveryhotoil.Lightlypressaslottedspoondownonthedoughforabout5 secondsand then lift it off. (Pressingdown for a few seconds at the start of thedeep-fryingcompresses the steam inside the roundof dough, andwhen theweight of the spoon is liftedoff, thereleasedsteamcausesthebhaturatograduallypuffupduringthecookingtime.)Deep-fryeachbhaturaforabout2minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandpuffedup,turningoncewiththeslottedspoon.Removefromtheoilanddrainonkitchentowels.Servehot.

FriedOnionsMakes100g(3½oz)

Crisp, golden brown fried onions are used in many Indian recipes. They can be mixed with otheringredientsattheendofthecookingprocesstoprovideacrunch,oraddedtoamarinadetoimbuealltheingredientswiththeircharacteristicsweetness.Theycanalsobescatteredsimplyoversteamedriceorusedrightattheend,asagarnish.Theycanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureorintherefrigeratorfortwotothreedays.

2largebrownonions,thinlyslicedpinchofsalt100g(3½oz)gheeor100ml(3½floz)vegetableorcanolaoil(seeNote)

Puttheonioninacolander,sprinkleoverthesaltandleavefor20minutes.Squeezealltheliquidoutoftheonionbypressingandsqueezingitbetweenthepalmsofyourhands.

Heat the ghee or oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Sauté the onion in four separatebatches,stirringfrequently,for2minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Removefromtheheatanduseasdesired.

Note:Youcanusevegetableorcanolaoilinsteadofgheeforfryingtheonion,buttheflavourwillnotbeasrefined.

StrawPotatoesMakes150g(5½oz)

Crisp-friedstrawpotatoescanbeservedwithan Indianmealor theycanbeacomponent inadish,suchasParseelambcurryorakuri,theParseeversionofscrambledeggs.

vegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-frying2largepotatoes,peeledandcutintomatchsticks½–1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

Heattheoilinawokordeep-fryerto200°C(400°F).

Deep-fry thepotato insmallbatches,stirringfrequentlywithaslottedspoon, forabout8minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Removefromtheoilwiththeslottedspoonanddrainonkitchentowels.

Sprinklewiththesaltandservehotoratroomtemperature.

DESSERTS

DessertsarenotusuallyconsideredwhenpreparinganeverydayIndianmeal,as theprecedingdishesareoftensorich,withmultiplecomponents.ManyIndianschoosetofinishamealwithasimplebowlofyoghurt,maybesweetenedorservedwithfreshfruit.Imustadmitthereisnothingquitelikethetasteofaperfectlyripenedmangoservedwithyoghurtafterarichlyflavouredmeal.

However,manyIndiansdohaveaverysweettoothanddessertsalwaysfeatureonthemenuatspecialandfestiveoccasions.Kulfi,thepopularIndianicecream,isafavouriteattheSpiceKitchenandcaneasilybe recreatedathome.Thereare threekulfi recipes in thischapter–PassionfruitKulfi,MangoKulfi andaChristmasKulfi for a festive variation that can be served instead ofChristmas pudding.Traditionally,kulfiismadebyreducingmilkoveralowheatforalongtime,buttodayevaporatedandcondensedmilkisusedtospeeduptheprocess.Youcanmakekulfiwithanyfreshfruits,soexperimentwithwhateverisinseason.

In thischapter Ihave tried tochoose recipesnotonly that I love,but thatalso show thediversityofIndiandesserts–fromthefamousGulabJamunandsimpleCoconutPancakes, to thebeautifully richVermicelli Pudding, and my own personal creation, Baked Saffron Yoghurt Pudding with TomatoCompote.Once you havemastered these recipes there really is no end to the variations that can becreatedfromthem.Ihopethereissomethinghereforeveryone.

PassionfruitKulfiServes6

Kulfi is an Indian almond ice cream, traditionally frozen in conical containers to resemble theHimalayanmountains. In India it is served with falooda, a cornflour (cornstarch) vermicelli,whichprovidesacontrastintemperature,tasteandtexture.Kulfisareeatenonallsortsofoccasions–onacasualbeachouting,at themovies,orasa sweet finale toawedding.This is a hard ice creamandshouldbetransferredfromthefreezertotherefrigeratorfiveminutesbeforeserving,tohelpremovethekulfifromthemouldwithoutitmelting.

315g(11oz/1cup)sweetenedcondensedmilk500ml(17floz/2cups)evaporatedmilk375ml(12½floz/1½cups)thick(double/heavy)cream250g(9oz/1cup)passionfruitpulp(seeNote),plusextratoserve40g(1½oz)groundalmonds

Putthecondensedandevaporatedmilks,cream,passionfruitandgroundalmondsinalargebowlandmixtogetheruntilwellcombined.

Pourthemixtureintoafreezer-proof1.5litre(51floz/6cup)mouldorterrineorintosix250ml(8½floz/1cup)ramekinsordessertglasses.Coverwithplasticwrapandfreezeforatleast8hours.

About5minutesbeforeserving,transferthekulfitotherefrigerator.Whenreadytoserve,turnthekulfiout of the largemould or terrine, if using, onto a platter and cut into slices, or invert the individualramekins onto plates. (If you are having difficulty getting the kulfi out, you can roll the individualramekinsbetweenyourhandstoprovidealittlewarmthandhelpremovethekulfifromtheramekins.However,donotrunhotwateroverthemasthiswillmakethesurfaceoftheicecreammelt.)Ifyouhavepreparedthekulfiindessertglasses,youcanservethemstraightaway.

Spoontheextrapassionfruitpulpoverthetopandserveimmediately.

Note:Youwillneed4–6passionfruitforthekulfi,oryoucouldusecannedpassionfruitpulp.

MalpuasServes4

Bengal isahotbedof literature,music, theatre,politics–andsweetdelicacies.Bengali sweetsmadewith fresh cheese, palm sugar or steamed yoghurt are famous throughout India.Most require greatexpertise to produce. But malpuas – fennel-scented pancakes, crisp on the outside, soft inside, andsoakedinsugarsyrup–caneasilybemadeathomeandwillcertainlyhaveyouhungryformore.

200ml(7floz)vegetableorcanolaoilforshallow-frying

SugarSyrup200g(7oz)sugar

Batter150g(5½oz/1cup)plain(all-purpose)flour30g(1oz/¼cup)semolina1tablespoonfennelseedsplusextratogarnish370–400ml(12½–13½floz)evaporatedmilk

Tomakethesugarsyrup,putthesugarandabout500ml(17floz/2cups)waterinamediumsaucepan(thewatershouldjustcoverthesugar)andcook,stirring,overahighheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandtheliquidstartstobubble,for5minutesatthemost.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuecookingforabout20minutes,oruntilthesugarsyrupisglossybutnottoothick.Removefromtheheat,coverwithalidandkeepwarm.

Meanwhile,tomakethebatter,sifttheflourintoalargebowl.Addthesemolinaandfennelseedsandmixtogether,thenmakeawellinthecentre.Pourin300ml(10floz)oftheevaporatedmilkandwhisktogethertomakealump-freebatterwithapouringconsistency,addingtheremainingmilkasnecessarytoformtherightconsistency.

Whenthesyrupiscooked,heattheoiloveramediumheatinalargefryingpan(theoilshouldbeabout5mm/¼indeep).Pourinaladlefulofbatterandwatchitspreadtoformathinpancakeintheoil.Cookforabout2minutes,oruntiltheundersideisgoldenbrown,thenturnoverwithtongsandafryingspoonormetalspatulaandcookforafurther1minute.

Pourthesugarsyrupintoalargeheatproofshallowbowl.Transferthepancaketothebowlandsoakinthesyrupfor2–3minutes.Repeattouseuptheremainingbatterandsugarsyrup,andservehotwiththeextrafennelseedssprinkledoverthetop.

PhirneeServes6

Ofallthehome-styledessertseateninIndia,thisistheeasiestandthemostpopular.Itisfoundalloverthecountry,andmanyregionshavetheirownvariations,suchasaddingdatepalmsyruporcoconut.This versionof the creamy, comforting rice-flour pudding is fromNorth India.Serve it simply as aneverydaydessertorjazzitupwithrosepetalsandediblesilverleafforaveryspecialoccasion.

30g(1oz)riceflour300ml(10floz)milk100g(3½oz)sugar¼teaspoonsaffronthreads1teaspoongreencardamompods,crushedalmonds,unsaltedroastedcashewnutsorshelledpistachionuts,crushedorfinelychopped,to

garnish

Mixtogetherthericeflourand100ml(3½floz)ofthemilkinasmallbowltomakeathinpaste.

Put the remainingmilk in amediumheavy-based saucepanover amediumheat and bring to a boil.Immediatelyreducetheheattolow,stirinthericeflourpasteandcook,stirringcontinuously,forabout15minutesoruntilthemixturethickens.Addthesugar,saffronandcardamomandcook,stirring,forabout8minutes,oruntilthesugarhasdissolved.

Pourintosixdessertbowlsandsprinklewiththealmonds,cashewnutsorpistachionuts.Cooltoroomtemperatureorchillintherefrigeratorforabout2hours,thenserve.

MangoRicePuddingwithCardamomandPistachioNutsServes4

Apopularhome-styledessert,ricepuddingcanbefoundinmanyformsthroughoutIndia,usingcoconutmilkormilk,palmsyruporriceflour.Thissummerversionwithitsdelectablemangoflavourisashowstopper.Forsomethingverydifferent, insteadofripemangopulp, tryusinggreenmangopulp,whichmustbecookedwithsugarbeforehand.

110g(4oz/½cup)short-grainrice2litres(68floz/8cups)milk2mangoes3greencardamompods,crushed220g(8oz/1cup)sugarmangopiecestogarnish2tablespoonscrushedshelledpistachionutstogarnish

Mixtogetherthericeandmilkintheuppersaucepanofalargedoubleboilerthatisgentlysimmeringoveralowheat.(Makesuretheuppersaucepandoesnottouchthesimmeringwaterbelow.)Covertheuppersaucepanwithatight-fittinglidandcookthericeandmilk,stirringoccasionally,foratleast1½hours,oruntilitisverysoftandcreamy.Duringthecookingtime,checkthedoubleboileroccasionallyandaddmoremilkifnecessarytomakesureitdoesnotboildry.

Meanwhile, peel themangoes and, using a sharpknife, remove all themango flesh fromaround thestone.Processthemangofleshinafoodprocessoruntilitformsasmoothpulp.Setaside.

Whenthericeiscookedandsoftandcreamy,stirinthecardamomandsugarandcookoveralowheat,stirring,forabout5minutes,oruntil thesugarhasdissolved.Removethericepuddingfromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperature,thenchillintherefrigeratorfor20minutes.

Stir the reservedmango pulp through the rice pudding.Divide between four dessert glasses, garnishwiththemangopiecesandpistachionutsandserve.

Variation:Ifyouwanttomakeaverydifferent-flavouredversionwithgreenmango,youwillneed250g(9oz)greenmango (youcanbuy these from IndianorAsiangrocery storesduring springandearlysummer). Steam the whole mango in a steamer basket over a saucepan of simmering water for 30minutes,oruntilsoft.Allowtocool,then,usingaverysharpknife,peeltheskin,andsliceawayallthefleshfromthestone.Put the fleshand100g(3½oz)sugar ina foodprocessorandblend tomakeapulp.Stirthepulpthroughthechilledricepudding,garnishwithpistachionutsandserve.

VermicelliPuddingServes4–6

As children, my cousins and I often spent summer holidays with my grandparents at their home inDehradun,asprawlingcountrytownintheHimalayanfoothills.Thehousewassurroundedbylychee,mango,plumandpeachorchards,withtreestoclimb,anduninterruptedlazydaysofbookreading,butmostofall,fabulousfoodpreparedbytheirhugelytalentedcook,MotiSingh.Thisdishwasaparticularhighlight – a decadent breakfast cereal or a delicious, comforting dessert. You can buy the roastedvermicelliforthisdishfromIndiangrocerystores.

400ml(13½floz)milk125ml(4floz/½cup)pouring(single/light)cream55g(2oz/¼cup)sugar3saffronthreads4greencardamompods,coarselyground2tablespoonssultanas(goldenraisins)100g(3½oz)roastedvermicellichoppedshelledpistachionutstogarnish

Heat themilk in a heavy-based saucepan over a low heat.When it is hot, stir in the cream, sugar,saffron,cardamomandsultanasandsimmerforabout30minutes.

Carefullyslideinthevermicelliandcookoveralowheat,stirringcontinuously,forabout15minutesoruntilthepuddingthickens.

Garnishwiththepistachionutsandservehot.

Variation:Foralighterversionofthisdish,moreappropriateforservingatbreakfast,heatthemilkandstir in the sugar, saffron, crushed green cardamom pods and sultanas, omitting the cream. Do notsimmer for30minutes. Instead, add the vermicelli immediately, and then continueas for the recipeabove.

BakedSaffronYoghurtPuddingwithTomatoCompoteServes4

Sweetenedyoghurt,initsmanyguises,isapopulardessertinBengal,wherethesweetshopsarefulloflittle terracotta pots brimming with a caramelised yoghurt. This dish was first made at the SpiceKitchenmany years ago, and this particular interpretation of a sweetened yoghurt is all mine. Theunusualpartnershipoftomatoandyoghurtworksreallywell.

4ripetomatoes,chopped1teaspoongingerpaste220g(8oz/1cup)sugar250g(9oz/1cup)plainyoghurt160g(5½oz/½cup)sweetenedcondensedmilk60ml(2floz/¼cup)thick(double/heavy)cream1teaspoonsaffroninfusion1egg,lightlybeaten

Preheattheovento160°C(320°F).

Mixtogetherthetomato,gingerpasteandsugarinamediumsaucepanoveramediumheatandcookforabout8–10minutes,oruntilthetomatohassoftened.Spreadoutoverthebaseofa25x12cm(10x4¾in)ovenproofdish.

Mixtogethertheyoghurt,condensedmilk,cream,saffroninfusionandegginamediumbowl.

Pourtheyoghurtmixtureoverthetomatomixtureandbakeintheovenfor20–35minutes,oruntilthepuddingisjustset.Whenthepuddingiscooked,itwilllooksmoothlikeapannacotta,butitwillstillbe a little wobbly. It is important not to cook it for any longer once it reaches this stage, becauseovercookingwillmakeitcurdleandthewaterseparate.(Thepuddingwillbecomefirmerandloseitswobblinesswhenitischilledintherefrigerator.)

Chillintherefrigeratorfor1hour,thenserveindessertglasses.

ChristmasKulfiServes6

Inmanypartsof India, justas inmostpartsofAustralia,Christmas isoftenabeautifullysunnyandwarmday.KulfiisatraditionalIndianicecream,andthiskulfirecipeisjustrightafterarichmealinanyclimate.Youcanserveitflamedwithbrandyforaspecialfestivetouch.

2tablespoonsunsweetenedcocoapowder315g(11oz/1cup)sweetenedcondensedmilk375ml(12½floz/1½cups)evaporatedmilk375ml(12½floz/1½cups)thick(double/heavy)cream3tablespoonsgroundalmonds125g(4½oz/1cup)driedfruitandnutmix(trailmix)(seeNote)1teaspoonmixedspice,usingequalpartsgroundcardamom,groundclovesandgroundmace60ml(2floz/¼cup)brandyfreshberriesandcherriestoserve

Mixtogetherthecocoaand2tablespoonsofwarmwaterinalargebowluntilthecocoahasdissolved.Addthecondensedandevaporatedmilks,cream,groundalmonds,driedfruitandnutmix,mixedspiceandbrandy,andmixtogetheruntilwellcombined.

Pourthemixtureintoafreezer-proof1.5litre(51floz/6cup)mouldorterrineorintosix250ml(8½floz/1cup)ramekinordariolemoulds.Coverwithplasticwrapandfreezeforatleast8hours.

About5minutesbeforeserving,transferthekulfitotherefrigerator.Whenreadytoserve,turnthekulfioutofthelargemouldorterrineontoaplatterandcutintoslices,orinverttheindividualramekinsontoplates.(Ifyouarehavingdifficultygettingthekulfiout,youcanrolltheindividualramekinsbetweenyourhandstoprovidealittlewarmthandhelpremovethekulfifromtheramekins.However,donotrunhotwateroverthemasthiswillmakethesurfaceoftheicecreammelt.)

Scattertheberriesandcherriesaroundthekulfiandserveimmediately.

Note:Youcouldbuyaready-madedriedfruitandnutmix,oryoucouldmakeyourown,choosingyourpreferred combination from dried figs, cranberries, apricots, currants, sultanas (golden raisins) andraisins,andnutssuchasalmonds,pistachionuts,walnutsandhazelnuts.

CoconutPancakesServes4

Indiansweetsareservednotonlyattheendofthemeal,theyareeatenasasnackatanytimeofday!AfavouriteinBengal,thisisasimplerecipeofthin,crepe-likepancakesfilledwithajuicycoconutfilling–alovelysummermouthful.Theyarereallyveryeasytocook,andyoumight find that thepancakesdisappearassoonasyoumakethem.

Batter150g(5½oz/1cup)plain(all-purpose)flour2eggs250–300ml(8½–10floz)milk1tablespoonvegetableorcanolaoilor15g(½oz)ghee

CoconutFilling2tablespoonsfull-creampowderedmilk45g(1½oz/½cup)desiccated(grateddried)coconut2tablespoonssugar100ml(3½floz)pouring(single/light)cream

Tomakethebatter,sifttheflourintoalargebowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Addtheeggs,200ml(7floz)ofthemilkandtheoilorgheeandwhisktogethertomakeathin,smoothbatter,addingtheremainingmilkasnecessarytoformtherightconsistency.Restfor20minutes.

Meanwhile,makethecoconutfilling.Mixtogetherthepowderedmilk,coconut,sugarandcreaminasmallbowluntilthepowderedmilkhasdissolvedandthefillingisthickandchunky.Setaside.

Heatamediumnon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheat.Pourinaladlefulofthepancakebatterandswirl it around to coat the base of the pan, forming a thin crepe-like pancake about 10 cm (4 in) indiameter.Cookfor2minutes.Flipandcookontheothersidefor5–10seconds.Transferthepancaketoalargeplateandleavetocool.Repeattouseuptheremainingbatter.

Whencool,layeachpancakeoutonaworksurface.Placeathincylinderofcoconutfillingacrossthepancake,neartheedgethatisclosesttoyou,thenrollupthepancaketoenclosethefilling.

Cuteachpancakeinto3–4piecesandservecold.

GulabJamunServes4

Literally translating as ‘rose olives’, gulab jamun are beautifully soft, warm dumplings, soaked inrosewater-imbuedsyrup,thatjustmeltinthemouth.AlmostallIndianrestaurantsincludegulabjamunonthemenu.Enjoythemathomeatanytime,notjustafterameal.Theyaredefinitelyacrowdpleaser.

vegetableorcanolaoilfordeep-fryingchoppedshelledpistachionutstogarnish

RosewaterSyrup250g(9oz)sugar2–3dropsofrosewater

Dough100g(3½oz/1cup)full-creampowderedmilk75g(2½oz/½cup)self-raisingflour30g(1oz/¼cup)semolina250–375ml(8½–12½floz/1–1½cups)thick(double/heavy)cream

Tomake the rosewater syrup, put the sugar and about 500ml (17 fl oz/2 cups)water in amediumsaucepan(thewatershouldjustcoverthesugar)andcook,stirring,overahighheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandtheliquidstartstobubble,for5minutesatthemost.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuecookingforabout20minutes,oruntilthesugarsyrupisglossybutnottoothick.Addtherosewatertojustflavourthesyrup,thenremovefromtheheat,coverwithalidandkeepwarm.

Meanwhile, tomake the dough, put the powderedmilk, flour and semolina in a large bowl andmixwell.Makeawellinthemiddleandgraduallyspoonin200ml(7floz)ofthecreamwhileworkingtheingredientstogether,addingtheremainingcreamasnecessarytoformasoftdough.

Rollthedoughintosmallballsthatareaboutthesizeofawalnutandassmoothaspossible–nocracksshouldbevisible.

Heat theoil inawokordeep-fryer to170°C(340°F).Deep-fry theballsa fewata time forabout8minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Pourtherosewatersyrupintoalargeheatproofshallowbowl.Removetheballswithaslottedspoonorfrying spoon, transfer to the bowl and soak in the syrup for at least 1 hour. Serve warm, with thepistachionutssprinkledontop.

Note:Youcanmakegulabjamuninadvance.Puttheballsandsyrupintherefrigeratorandjustbeforeserving,reheattheballsandsyrupinasaucepanoveramediumheatuntilhot.

OrangeHalwawithSultanasServes4

Halwas have a Turkish and Middle Eastern ancestry, and many different versions can be foundthroughout India, some of them truly, uniquely Indian. This halwa, a lovely, warm, citrusy puddingmadewithsemolinainjustminutes,istheultimatewinterdessert.Itisalsoperfectforafternoontea.

60g(2oz)ghee125g(4½oz/1cup)semolina110g(4oz/½cup)sugar2tablespoonssultanas(goldenraisins)190ml(6½floz/¾cup)freshlysqueezedorangejuice,from2–3oranges1tablespoongratedorangezest125ml(4floz/½cup)milkorangesegmentstogarnish

Heatthegheeinalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Cookthesemolina,stirringcontinuously,forabout5minutes,oruntilitstartstobrown.

Add the sugar and sultanas and cook, stirring, for 1minute.Add the orange juice and zest andmixtogetherthoroughly,thencookfor2minutes.

Pour in the milk and cook, stirring vigorously, for 8–10 minutes or until the liquid is completelyabsorbed.

Garnishwiththeorangesegmentsandservehot.

CarrotHalwaServes4

Halwas are enjoyed all over India. Beetroot (beets), zucchini (courgettes), pumpkin (winter squash),lentilsandeggscanallbeusedasthemainingredient.Theycanbefoundinmanyformsbutareusuallycookedtoaroughmash.Eatenwarm,theyaretheclosestthingtoapudding,Indian-style.ThiswinterwarmerisaNorthIndianfavourite,andyoucoulddoubleoreventriplethequantitiesI’vegivenasitwillkeepforuptotwoweeksintherefrigerator.Heatitupjustbeforeserving.

310g(11oz)gratedcarrot500ml(17floz/2cups)milk220g(8oz/1cup)sugar125g(4½oz)gheeorunsaltedbutter4greencardamompods,crushed100g(3½oz/½cup)full-creampowderedmilkshelledpistachionutstogarnish

Mixtogetherthecarrotandmilkinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Bringalmosttoaboil,thenreducetheheattolowandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout1hour,oruntilthecarrothasabsorbedallthemilk.

Stirinthesugar,increasetheheattomediumandcookfor10minutes,oruntilthemixtureisdry.Stirinthegheeorbutter,thencook,stirringoccasionally,for7minutes,oruntilthehalwatakesonaglossyappearance.

Addthecardamomandpowderedmilkandstirthroughtocombinewell.

Garnishwiththepistachiosandservewarm.

MangoKulfiServes4

Themostpopularofall kulfis, especiallyoutsideof India, ismangokulfi.The lushdecadenceof themangoseemstoreallymatchwith the luxuriouscreaminessof thekulfi– itreally isanunforgettablecombination.Freshmangoeswill give you the bestmango kulfi, but if you’re cravinga reminder oflong,hotsummersinthemiddleofwinter,youcouldusecannedmangopulp.

2mangoesor425g(15oz)canmangopulpormangoslicesinsyrup315g(11oz/1cup)sweetenedcondensedmilk375ml(12½floz/1½cups)evaporatedmilk375ml(12½floz/1½cups)thick(double/heavy)cream1tablespoongroundalmonds

Ifusingthefreshmangoes,peelthemand,usingasharpknife,removeallthemangofleshfromaroundthestone.Process ina foodprocessor toformasmoothpulp. Ifusingcannedmangoslices insyrup,drainwell,thenprocesstheslicesinafoodprocessortoformasmoothpulp.

Transferthemangopulptoalargebowl.Addthecondensedandevaporatedmilks,creamandgroundalmondsandmixtogetheruntilwellcombined.

Pourthemixtureintoafreezer-proof1.5litre(51floz/6cup)mouldorterrineorintosix250ml(8½floz/1cup)ramekinsordariolemoulds.Coverwithplasticwrapandfreezeforatleast8hours.

About5minutesbeforeserving,transferthekulfitotherefrigeratorfor5minutes.Whenreadytoserve,turnthekulfioutofthelargemouldorterrineontoaplatterandcutintoslices,orinverttheindividualramekins onto plates. (If you are having difficulty getting the kulfi out, you can roll the individualramekinsbetweenyourhandstoprovidealittlewarmthandhelpremovethekulfifromtheramekins.However,donot runhotwaterover themas thiswillmake thesurfaceof the icecreammelt.)Serveimmediately.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

‘LastnightIdreamtIwentagainto.’–ChocolateCity–Myfather’swonderfulbedtimestoryfantasy,whichawakenedmyfoodcuriosityforever.

ToSujoy,whoalwaysenjoysmycooking.

ToPritikaandChiragh–thisbookisanediblelinktoyourroots.

ToFionaandPaul–thankyoufortheopportunitytosharemyfood.

ToLucy,Bronwyn,Jana,DebandBeccy,whotookarawricegrainandpolisheditintosomethingdeliciouslyenticing.

Butmostofall,toallofyouwhowillsharethesewonderfulrecipesthatareanintegralpartofmyworld:enjoynotonlythefoodbutalsothestoriesbehindthem.

Thisebookpublishedin2013byHardieGrantBooksPublishedinprintin2013byHardieGrantBooks

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Publishedin2013byHardieGrantBooks

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eISBN9781743580356

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