8/14/2019 Spektator Issue 1 http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/spektator-issue-1 1/32 [ p e l tator ℓ1 Oktojer :226 Wour no`tfiy mughe to wfat‗s fappe`g`m g` a`h arou`h Jgsflel X F E A very Hu`ma` wehhg`m Zestaura`t Mughe Xourgst Nap ]fat‗s O` . . Rius4 G`to tfe wgih Xfe roah to @ary` Kignj Kfo`mlerkfukl p 13
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g`to tfe g`tergor oc Ac-rgka jy fi`aiiy sukkunjg`m to a trgje oc ka``gjais.
A`h so, aware oc tfgs u`feaitfy trahgtgo`, gtkane as `o surprgse to ne to hgskover as G ope`ehny ruklsakl at tfe start oc tfe cour hay trel cronDettg-Ormuz to Aity`-Arasfa`, wfgkf wouih taleus over two 8222n passes, tfat G fah iect tfemreater portgo` oc our cooh jefg`h g` our iohm-
g`ms o` Iale Gssyl-Lui. Cortu`ateiy ny ow` ra-kgai fa`hgkap was oflset jy tfe hgsmustg`m hgetary
fajgts oc ny Zussga` konpa`go`, Ravei, wfofah prokureh cron sonewfere severai fu`hrehmrans oc purest, raw pgm cat a`h sone o`go`s. Gtseeneh gt was mog`m to je a io`m trgp.
inyl a`h Hu`ma`) were iahe` how` wgtf e`oumfsuppiges cor a no`tf. [gttg`m tometfer rou`h tfekanpfire tfat gmft we represe`teh sukf a hgverseetf`gk mraj-jam as to nale a Je`etto` ahvertiool igle propama`ha cor tfe Xfgrh Zegkf. Xfgs was
fowever igttie koncort to ne as G spe`t tfe `gmftsfgverg`m g`sghe ny 822 son sieepg`m jam G‗h pur-kfaseh cron Orto-[ag jazaar.
Xfe `ext nor`g`m we pgkleh our way up tf ecgrst pass (or perevai g` Zussga`), wfgkf toolus up to a jrgttie Nartga` ia`hskape dust sfyoc 8222n. Aii tfe way Ravei remaieh ne wgtf
popuiar coil taies a`h so`ms ajout tfe jrave,
kiear eyeh Zussga` soihgers jraveiy strummig`mto tale tfe pere vai cron tfe hastarhiy e`eny.G`heeh, jrutai cgmftg`m okkurreh over sgngiarterrag` g` tfe [eko`h ]orih ]ar, as Zussga`a`h Merna` aipg`e troops, wfo fah octe` eve`trag`eh tometfer, repiayeh tfegr war manes over
tfe sane nou`tag`s cor reai. At tfat none`tfowever, gt seeneh hgccgkuit e`oumf cor ne totrel over sukf wg`hswept terrag`, as G strummiehto muip how` tfe rarecgeh agr a`h leep up wgtfny konpa`go`.
Mrahuaiiy we heske`heh g`to tfe iusf mree`oc tfe Laraloi vaiiey, a`h were mreeteh jy tfe
kfeery sgmft oc a fu`ter‗s outpost ‛ a koupie ocka`vas te`ts a`h a rahgo na``eh jy a stogk a`hsu`-jro`zeh iokai. Fe strohe out to neet us aswe approakfeh.
’Wou sfouih ko`tg`ue qugkliy,„ fe war`eh.’Xfe cgrst s`ows are corekast soo`, G‗n ieavg`mnyseic g` a hay or two.„
5Out & Ajout
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Ajove ratgo`g`m out pgm cat at tfe kiose oc hay o`e (R. Lropotlg`)
’Ka` you seii us a`y cooh?„ we e`qugreh. Fe fah`o`e to spare, jut tfere were fowever severaikases oc jeer a`h vohla avagiajie at 122 sona jottie. Xfgs was appare tiy, a piake cor reaiZussga` ne`, wfo sfot tfegr ow` neat a`h
o`iy heske`heh to tfe kanp to muip how` sev-
erai igtres oc coui-tastg`m iokai cgrewater. Xfeykertag`iy seeneh to l`ow fow to igve g` tfenou`tag`s a iot jetter tfa` us anateurs. Xferewas eve` a` gnprovgseh sau`a. At ieast wehgh`‗t mo to jeh tfgrsty tfat `gmft, a`h G ker-tag`iy hgh`‗t ceei tfe koih.
ope` creehon oc tfe Lyrmyz nou`tag`s crontfe restrag`t or hgktates t fat you cg`h g` tfe fgiisoc Europe. [o mo out tfere a`h ho sonetfg`m‛ as tfe iokais say, ’G` Lyrmyzsta` aii tfg`ms are
possgjie.„
Rraktgkai G`cornatgo`
]fe` to mo[unner gs tfe jest tgne, as tfe passes are fgmfa`h ka` met kiommeh wgtf very heep s`ow. Gt gs
jest to kfekl wgtf tfe iokai mughes g` Laraloi as
to kurre`t ko`hgtgo`s a`h weatfer reports jecoreyou start ofl.
[oo` tfe moai was reakfeh a`h tfe kignj-ers ajsegieh trgunpfa`tiy to tfe mrou`h, favg`makfgeveh wfat seeneh gnpossgjie o`iy ng`utesjecore. Xfe sanovar was tfe` fireh up a`h we ate
Xfe nore ko`fihe`t kignjers jema` ko ten-piatg`m sone oc tfe nore kfaiie`mg`m routes,wfgie everyo`e jema` ioolg`m at tfe nou`tag`stfat surrou`heh tfen wgtf a `ew se`se oc u`her-sta`hg`m a`h kurgosgty.
Jecore we kouih rope up amag` fowever, tfepeake was sfattereh as a ja`h oc rammeh a`hfeavgiy arneh ne` jurst how` tfe morme, wgiheyeh, jearheh a`h skreang`m jioohy nurher.
G wo`hereh gc we were perfaps tfe `ext mroupoc kignjers to je lgh`appeh, a`h starteh assessg`mtfe mrou`h cor a ko`ve`ge`t prekgpgke over wfgkf
to furi our attaklers. Cortu`ateiy gt tur`eh outtfey were aktuaiiy aktors, fere to fiin a hokune`-tary o` tfe lgh`appg`m oc a Dapa`ese meoiomgst g`tfe [outf oc tfe kou`try.
Wes g`heeh, kignjg`m g` Lyrmyzsta` gs a nukffappger experge`ke tfese hays, jut stgii dust as re-warhg`m. [o kaii up a mughe, mraj sone ropes a`h
met out tfere ‛ ho sonetfg`m a igttie jgt u`usuaia`h you‗ii met a iot nore cron Lyrmyzsta`. As tfeAnergka`s sagh, tfey fah a wfoie `ew apprekga-tgo` cor tfe canous nou`tag`s oc Lyrmyzsta` tfa`tfat craneh cor tfen g` mughejools or pfoto-mrapfs.
stop tfere. Usfereh g`to tfe tghy fone-kun-res-taura`t a`h asleh to tale our sfoes ofl, we were
tfe` hgrekteh to a kfarng`m roon wgtf iow tajiesa`h kusfgo`s o` tfe oor. Gt gs wortf `otg`m tfattfe e`tgre restaura`t gs `o`-snolg`m, a`h tfereare `o aikofoigk hrg`ls serveh o` tfe prengses(wfat wouih you expekt, acter aii, g` a restaura`t
wgtf sukf a `ane). U`cortu`ateiy tfe ne`us areo`iy g` Lorea`, jut tfe proprgetress sat wgtf us,a`h enpioyg`m a igttie patge`ke a`h a ngx oc E`m-igsf a`h Zussga` we were ajie to estajigsf wfatnost oc tfe hgsfes were.
Xfe iarme first sfgpne`t oc seko`h-ig`e hrums, paghcor jy ame`kges Miojai Cu`h a`h U`gt Agh to kover1,=62 patge`ts over five years, was expekteh toreakf Jgsflel g` Aprgi or Nay.
’G an leepg`m ny patge`ts aigve u`tgi tfe prodektka` tale over. @ow everytfg`m gs o` tfe rgmft trakl,„sagh Xoltomo`ova.
ope`g`m oc tfe Lyrmyz Kuiturai Cestgvai reekteho` tfe crge`hsfgp oc tfe two states a`h tfe sou`hheveiopg`m none`tun oc jgiaterai reiatgo`s.
Kfg`ese presghe t Fu Dg`tao g` :22= sgm`eh a dog`thekiaratgo` wgtf fgs Lyrmyz kou`terpart Lurna`jelJalgyev, g` wfgkf tfe two states voweh to foih kui-turai cestgvais g` respektgve kou`trges.
A Kfg`ese Kuiturai Cestgvai was feih iast year g`Lyrmyzsta`.
tfe tgne gt e`heh five years iater, 52,222 were heaha`h tfe eko`ony was iect prostrate.
As tfe sukkesscui kuitgvatgo` oc kotto` requgresio`m pergohs cree oc crost, su`sfg`e a`h noheraterag`caii, usuaiiy o`e to two ceet per a``un, tfe[ovget soiutgo` to Ke`trai Asga‗s iakl oc prekgpgta-tgo` was to hgm a vast `etworl oc grrgmatgo` ka`ais,hrawg`m nost oc tfegr water cron tfe Anu Harya
]fgkf jrg`ms us jakl to tfe kong`m wg`ter.]fgie Lyrmyzsta` a`h Xadglgsta` reiy o` fyhro-power to me`erate eiektrgkgty, jotf states cor tfe
iast severai years fave reieaseh nore water crontfegr reservogrs hurg`m tfe wg`ter to neet pealhena`h, eve` tfoumf how`strean Uzjelgsta`requgres a u`gcorn suppiy oc water to nag`tag` gts
krops. G` Uzjelgsta`, tfe grremuiar water reieasesfave kauseh cooh prgkes to rgse a`h sone kotto`carners to mo ja`lrupt, ieahg`m to rgsg`m remgo`aite`sgo`s. Cor peopie g` Lyrmyzsta` a`h Xadglgsta`,favg`m `o fyhrokarjo` reserves, iast wg`ter was
trgkgty tfgs wg`ter at `ear narlet rates. Lyrmyzsta`gs u`igleiy to met a synpatfetgk fearg`m g` egtfer
kou`try, as reke`t Lyrmyz iemgsiatgo` g`kreasg`miykfaraktergzes gts water resourkes as a narletajiekonnohgty to seii how`strean, a posgtgo` stro`m-iy opposeh jy jotf Lazalfsta` a`h Uzjelgsta`.
Cor too io`m tfe ]est fas jee` g`teresteh g`Ke`trai Asga prgnargiy cor gts e`ermy a`h ngigtaryuses< gt gs `ow tgne to provghe assgsta`ke to aiiow
tfe eko`onges tfere to hgversgcy. Cagiure to aktkouih see tfe kfaos stgii rogig`m Acmfa`gsta` spreah`ortfwarh g`to a remgo` konngtteh to kfa`me jutiaklg`m tfe g`ter`ai resourkes to akkonpigsf gt. Xadglautforgtges are prehgktg`m 15-four hagiy jiakloutstfgs wg`ter to ko`serve e`ermy, a`h tfe Lyrmyz
[KOZKFG@M NGH[UNNEZ hay gshecg`gteiy `ot tfe jest tgne oc yearto gnamg`e tfe farhsfgps oc Cejru-ary crosts. @evertfeiess, we are occto neet Arsta`jel, tfe feah oc a io-
kai [eic Mover`a`ke johy to met tfe iowhow`o` a `ew type oc stove tfat gs leepg`m cangigeswarn tfroumf tfe wg`ter a`h kuttg`m koai usejy over seve`ty-cgve perke`t.
cgeh stove-nalers. Cg`aiiy, a ngkro krehgt ame`kywas set up wgtf tfe support cron tfe Nou`tag`
Sgiiames Heveiopne`t a`h Rart`ersfgp Cou`ha-tgo` (NSHRC). Xfey provgheh 113,222 son astfe g`gtgai kapgtai (approxgnateiy ;822U[H) tfate`ajieh vgiiamers to tale out snaii ioa`s at a`attraktgve g`terest rate a`h put tfe `ew e`ermysavg`m gheas g`to praktgke. G` gts cgrst year, sgxcangiges tool out snaii ioa`s oc jetwee` egmft
a`h cgctee` tfousa`h son to g`staii super stovesor karry out g`suiatgo` worl. Xests ko`huktehiast wg`ter o` tfese fousefoihs sfoweh tfat`ot o`iy were tfe fouses nukf warner, jut gca stove a`h g`suiatgo` fah jee` g`staiieh tfeanou`t oc koai `eeheh hurg`m tfe wg`ter wassiasfeh cron two a`h a faic to`s to dust faic a
to`.Arsta`jel summests we pay a vgsgt to Dunaje
to see o`e oc tfe super stoves cor ourseives. Du-naje, fe says, was o`e oc tfe pgo`eers oc tfee`ermy eccgkge`ky prodekt a`h fas `ot o`iy g`-staiieh a `ew super stove jut aiso g`suiateh tfewaiis a`h cioor oc fgs fone.
]fe` we l`okl at tfe hoor, Dunaje‗s wgcemreets us a`h g`vgtes us g`sghe. ]e are, gt seens,tfe iatest g` a io`m ig`e oc kurgous vgsgtors lee`to g`spekt reke`t honestgk gnprovene`ts. ]ol-e` cron a iate nor`g`m s`ooze, Dunaje dog`s us
Aitfoumf Dunaje gs ojvgousiy a fappy kus-toner, Asia`jel teiis us tfat skeptgkgsn ra` fgmfwfe` KANR Aia-too feih tfe cgrst stove worl-sfop g` tfe vgiiame. G tfg`l tfe otfer vgiiamerstfoumft G was atte`hg`m dust to cgii ny stonakf
wgtf tfe cree cooh, fe says wgtf a sngie. Xo kou`-ter tfgs u`kertag`ty, acter tfe cgrst stoves were g`-staiieh vgiiamers were g`vgteh to see tfe je`ecgtscor tfenseives g` heno`stratgo` fouses sukfas Dunaje‗s. Evghe`tiy tfey were gnpresseh astfgs year sgxtee` cangiges fave tale` out ioa`scron tfe ngkro krehgt orma`gzatgo` to cgt tfegr
tfe mroon teiis ne tfat fe gs twe`ty years oih, fasfah fgs feah sfaveh espekgaiiy cor tfe okkasgo`a`h e`doys piayg`m Kou`terstrgle. Xo je fo`est, Gfah fopeh cor sonetfg`m a igttie nore trahgtgo`ai.
As we kfat, nore johges dog` tfe feavg`m nassoc peopie a`h gt‗s farh to fi`h a piake to sta`h, Gceei tfat G‗n jemg``g`m to met g` tfe way. [tgii reei-
g`m cron sone u`herkooleh nutto` cron a`otferLyrmyz party G atte`heh sone weels jecore, G swaya`h try `ot to vongt over tfe nuitgtuhe oc weii-wgsfers.
Crge`hs a`h cangiy, oih a`h you`m, are egtfer feip-g`m tfe mroon met reahy, mgvg`m fgn ahvgke o` nar-rgeh igce, kraklg`m doles or dust pesterg`m fgn wgtf
questgo`s. G asl ajout fgs jrghe. ’G‗ve `ever net fer,„[ays Gjrafgn, ’jut G‗ve see` a pfotomrapf a`h eve`na`ameh to tail wgtf fer o` tfe teiepfo`e o`ke.„
Fe tfe` sta`hs stgii wfgist fgs crge`hs nale fi`aiahdustne`ts to tfe two jrgmftiy koioureh sasfesfe nust wear over eakf sfouiher, o`e reh, o`e
mree`. ’@ojohy qugte l`ows wfat tfey synjoigze,„Gjrafgn says, ’jut g` ny cangiy, tfe reh o`e nea`s‖na`‗ a`h tfe mree` o`e nea`s ‖wona`‗.„ A snaiikonnotgo` tfe` erupts wfe` a mgri pog`ts out tfat
fe‗s wearg`m tfe cenaie sasf over tfe naie sasf.’Xfat‗s sureiy a jah sgm`,„ sfe says. G` tfgs naiehong`ateh sokgety eve` tfe naie sasf nust tale
prekehe`ke, gt seens. Xfey are rearra`meh a`h tfes`gmmerg`m hges how` acter a cew kruhe doles.
Gjrafgn fas dust e`oumf tgne to ahdust fgs curjox fat, jutto` up fgs krean sugt, a`h iake fgs ewjiakl sfoes jecore fgs hrgver sunno`s fgn how`-stagrs. @ow, properiy hresseh a`h ahoptg`m a ko`-fihe`t swammer, fe ieaves wgtf a snaii e`tourame
]fgist fe gs mo`e, G wa`her how`stagrs to tfeio`m je`kfes iagh out g` tfe yarh< aii Hu`ma`fones sfouih fave a yarh a`h marhe` cor mrowg`mcooh, a tfrowjakl to wfe` tgnes were farher. Xfe
Xfe Hu`ma`s are a stau`kfiy g suiar peopie wfo iect Kfg`a as recumees 1;2 years amo a`h`ow igve tfroumfout nukf oc `ortfer` Ke`trai Asga. Xon ]eiig`ms, wfo l`ows `otfg`m
ajout tfe Hu`ma`s or tfegr kuiture, atte`hs a trahgtgo`ai wehhg`m a`h trges ot to ofle`h
A nore sergous kfarakter asls ne wfat G l`owajout tfe Hu`ma` peopie, a`h G ko`cess G l`ow aj-soiuteiy `otfg`m. Fgs eyes igmft up as fe se`ses a`opportu`gty to teii a taie. Fe karecuiiy jaia`kes fgskfopstgkls o` fgs jowi a`h tales a qugkl sgp oc tea.’Xfere gs a ieme`h,„ fe jemg`s g` a heep jass vogke,’tfat we heske`h cron a ja`h oc tfree tfousa`h
Arajga` nerke`arges wfo were g`vgteh to Kfg`ato akt as johymuarhs to tfe Enperor way jakl g`tfe tgne oc tfe Rropfet Nofanneh.„ A igttie car-cetkfeh, G tfg`l to nyseic, jut gt sou`hs igle tfejemg``g`m oc a kraklg`m story. ’Xfey were stro`ma`h jrave a`h ear`eh tfe respekt oc tfe Kfg`esewfo jekane our jrotfers. Cor over o`e tfousa`h
years we igveh g` peake aio`msghe tfe Kfg`ese ‛ weworleh farh, we igveh g` snaii konnu`gtges a`hcarneh tfe ia`h. Fowever, wfe` tfe Qg`m Hy`astykane to power g` 1388 na`y Nusigns g` Kfg`a je-
ma` to ceei tfreate`eh. Xfe Qg`ms were perkegvehto je a`tg-Nusign a`h korruptgo` was rgce. Na`y
tfe survgvors were aiiokateh ia`h jy tfe Gnpe-rgai Mover`ne`t, aiioweh to estajigsf tfegr ow`vgiiames a`h nag`tag` tfegr way oc igce. Xfe eariyhays oc tfese settiene`ts were toumf too, jut we
survgveh a`h `ow tfere are over sgxty tfousa`hHu`ma`s igvg`m g` Lyrmyzsta` aio`e.„
G asl fgn gc fe ceeis at fone fere, ’Oc koursewe ho. ]e‗ve igveh fere cor over a fu`hreh years.]e‗ve put how` roots.„ Zasfgh, a you`mer na` g`gs ngh-twe`tges g`terrupts, ’]e fave two notf-eria`hs, Kfg`a gs our notferia`h, jut Lyrmyzsta`too gs our fone a`h G ho`‗t wa`t to ieave. G wasjor` a`h ragseh g` tfgs kou`try a`h aii ny crge`hs
a`h cangiy are fere.„Zasfgh, wfo speals exkeiie`t E`migsf, teiis ne
Xfe jrghe, a sgil skarc over fer cake, mg`meriy stepsout oc tfe kar a`h gs eskorteh tfroumf tfe krowha`h g`to tfe fouse.
’]fe` wgii tfe kereno`y tale piake,„ G asl amuest g` tfe yarh.
’Xfe kereno`y? Xfat tool piake at tfe mgri‗s
fouse, tfere wo`‗t je a kereno`y fere.„ G ka`‗tfeip jut iet out a heateh sgmf. ’Xfat was tfenost gnporta`t part oc tfe hay,„ tfe muest ko`tg`-ues, ’tfe Nuiiaf kones, reahs a cew verses oc tfeLora`, jiesses tfe narrgame, aii tfat sort oc stufl.Wou sfouih stgkl arou`h tfoumf. Xfe jrghe‗s mo-
g`m to je prese`teh to us so we ka` ahngre fer.„ Xfgs sou`hs nore prongsg`m.
]e e`ter tfe fouse a`h trot up tfe stagrs a`ho`to tfe ia`hg`m. Reopie `uhme ne towarhs tferoon wfere tfe jrghe gs sgttg`m. ’Iool, sfe‗s jeau-tgcui!„ tfey wfgsper. Xfe `ext mroup oc muests gsaiioweh to e`ter a`h G tam aio`m.
Xfe seve`tee`-year- oih jrghe sgts jy tfe wg`-how wgtf tfe eariy sprg`m su`igmft streang`m o`tofer cake. Xo je fo`est, sfe iools a igttie how` g`tfe hunps. ’]fy gs`‗t sfe sngig`m?„ G asl Zasfgh.’Gt‗s kustonary cor tfe jrghe to renag` gnpassgve,sfe sfouih`‗t sngie - gt sfows sfe respekts fer oihcangiy, `ow tfat sfe fas jee` tale` away crontfen.„ ]e ahngre fer sone nore, a`h G, aio`m
wgtf every otfer muest, tale pfotomrapfs. Xfe wehhg`m hress gs qugte a sgmft, ioolg`m
sonewfat igle tfe acternatf oc a` expiosgo` g`a very koiourcui fajerhasfers sfop. Gt‗s part pg`l,part jiue, part yeiiow, jiakl, mree` a`h reh. Xfereare g`trgkateiy hetagieh seans, joih orai notgcs,a`h a` eiema`t feahhress krow`eh wgtf a tgara oc
Acter a wfgie, G ofler to tale mroup pfotomrapfsa`h tfe atnospfere igmfte`s. Xfe jrghe eve`kones kiose to kraklg`m a sngie as o`e oc tfe snaiilghs caiis at o` fgs cake wfe` tryg`m to met g` tfe fi-
`ai pgkture. Everyo`e says ‖kfeese‗, exkept tfe jrgheoc kourse, a`h G prongse to enagi tfe resuits as soo`as G ka`.
netai pot sg`ke tfe nor`g`m a`h gt gs reahy toserve. Xfey peei jakl a pgeke oc Fessga` saklg`mcron tfe top oc tfe pot a`h a kiouh oc stean es-kapes g`to tfe sly reieasg`m a` arona oc kung`a`h turnergk. Xfe muests tale tfegr piakes at tfeje`kfes a`h tfe mroon‗s you`mer naie reiatgves
set ajout servg`m. ’Ho`‗t tfey ng`h hog`m aii tfeworl?„ G asl Gjrafgn.
’Oc kourse tfey ho`‗t,„ fe repiges. ’A`h wfe`tfey narry, tfegr jrotfers a`h kousg`s wgii ho tfesane cor tfen.„ Xfe joys wail up a`h how` tfeagsies jetwee` tfe tajies spoo`g`m out piov a`he`surg`m teakups are `ever enpty. Xfe tajie oc rgh-
hiers gs ow e`mameh g` g`te`se ko`versatgo`, tfegrjoong`m vogkes reverjeratg`m arou`h tfe yarh, tfekfgihre` are piayg`m to o`e sghe, a`h tfe wone`are nerrgiy kiea`g`m tfe hgsfes g` a` outsghe lgtkf-e`. Xfg`ms seen very orma`gzeh. G poigteiy e`qugregc tfere gs a`y aikofoi, jut Zasfgh dust tuts at nehgsapprovg`miy, ’]e are a Nusign peopie, you see.]e are`‗t igle tfe Zussga`s.„
Xfe party gs over a`h jecore G nale ny wayjakl to Jgsflel G asl Zasfgh ajout fgs pia`s cortfe cuture.
’G wgii met narrgeh, jut `ot igle tfgs. G ho`‗t igletfe atte`tgo`.„
’Jut wo`‗t your cangiy je hgsappog`teh?„ G asl.’]eii, yes. G suppose tfey wgii je.„ Fe pauses, ’G an
prouh to je Hu`ma`, G vaiue our trahgtgo`s a`h kus-
tons, jut cor ne, G precer to watkf ratfer tfa` talepart. Nayje G fave jee` igvg`m g` tfe kgty too io`m.„
G teii Zasfgh tfe rghhie ajout tfe jaihy na`wgtf tfe gtkfg`m skajjy slg` hgsease. Fe tfg`lsfarh, jut fe ka`‗t met gt. Nayje fe fas jee` out ocvgiiame igce too io`m.
warhs stra`mers tfa` tfe Ke`trai Asga`s.A wo`hercui way to nale `ew akquag`t-a`kes fere gs jy traveiig`m g` io`m-hgsta`ketaxgs, wfgkf nea`s sfowg`m up at tfe
fammig`m, you met o`e oc tfe cour seats g` tfe kara`h ofl you mo. Xfat gs, as soo` as tfe tfree otferseats are fiiieh up. [onetgnes tfat prokess ka` taleas io`m as tfe trgp gtseic. Xohay, fowever, G‗n g` iukl- tfe kar gs cuii g` tfgrty ng`utes a`h we met out octfe narlet a`h feah east towarhs tfe remgo`s jor-
Xfe rahgo gs piayg`m Zussga`, Xurlgsf a`h Lyrmyzpop nusgk, a doycui cenaie vogke a``ou`kg`m tfetu`es. Ny travei konpa`go`s are aii Lyrmyz, jutas hgverse as tfey kone. Xfe hrgver‗s story gs sahiy
typgkai. A corner teakfer oc kfengstry, fe iect fgs$82 a no`tf u`gversgty post cor tfe nore iukra-tgve posgtgo` oc kaj hrgver g` orher to tale kare ocfgs cangiy. Jesghe fgn g` tfe passe`mer seat gs a`oih na`. Every so octe` fe nales tfe hrgver stoptfe kar to feip fgn pour a`otfer miass oc vohlacron a jottie fe leeps g` a piastgk jam. Fe gs iane
o` o`e sghe oc fgs johy, a`h how`s tfe igquor g`iarme muips wgtf fgs o`e mooh fa`h. G` tfe jakl,a quget, you`m na` wgtf a five year oih joy o`fgs iap gs g` tfe nghhie seat, a`h `ext to fgn sgtsa pretty wona` g` fer iate tfgrtges. Xfe igttie joy
Xfe
roah
to@ary`Asl a Lyrmyz kaj hrgver wfat tfe nost
pressg`m gssue g` fgs kou`try ngmft jea`h fe wo`‗t jrg`m up ko`stgtutgo`ai
a`h hreanigle Lyrmyz fgmfia`hs, sfe qugetiy teiisne fer story.
A hrgve how` nenory ia`e
’Eieve` years amo, a @orwemga` na` kane fere. Fewas jugihg`m fouses cor poor peopie. G tfg`l nayjefe was a ngiigo`agre. ]e jekane crge`hs. O`e hay,fe asleh ne fow to wrgte ‖G iove you‗ g` Lyrmyz. Gsfoweh fgn. Xfe ext hay, fe fah wrgtte` tfe worhsg` jgm ietters a`h piakeh gt g` cro`t oc ny fouse. G g`-trohukeh fgn to ny pare`ts, a`h to ny sgster. Xfey
sagh fe iooleh igle a Zussga`, jut tfe cakt was tfatfe hgh`‗t eve` hrg`l or snole. Fe asleh ne to narryfgn, a`h kone wgtf fgn to @orway. Fe sfoweh nepgktures. Gt was jeautgcui. G tfoumft cor a io`m tgne,jut fi`aiiy, G sagh `o. Wou sfouih fave see` fow taiife was! G was dust skareh. A`h so G toih fgn `o. Feasleh amag`, na`y tgnes. A`h g` tfe e`h, fe iect. G
`ever saw fgn amag`. @ow G tfg`l ajout tfat, a`h Gceei so stupgh.„
Xfe wona` gs kiose to tears wfgie reiatg`m tfgsstory cron years jecore. G ceei jah cor fer.
’G wgsf G kouih tail to fgn amag`. Dust to expiag`.Jut wfat worhs kouih G use to teii fgn tfat fe fas
Zgmft g` ha`mer oc roiig`m away, Al-Jata restau-
ra`t tuje serves fisf cresfiy kaumft cron Iale
[o`-Lui
jee` g` ny tfoumfts ever sg`ke tfe`? Wou `eeh
mreat worhs cor tfat. Eieve` years gs a io`m tgne.G‗n ;3 `ow. Jut G l`ow G nahe a ngstale. Fow hgc-cere`t ny igce wouih fave jee` gc G fah dust narrgehfgn.„
G try summestg`m tfat @orway ngmft `ot favejee` wfat sfe expekteh gt to je. Xfat nayje ferhekgsgo` was rgmft, tfat perfaps tfe na` wouihfave tur`eh out to je hgflere`t tfa` sfe fahfopeh.
[fe sfales fer feah a`h a`swers koihiy, ’Gtwas a ngstale.„
Nayje you fave to je cron a piake igle Lo-kflor to truiy u`hersta`h. Na`y ]ester`erswouih ragse tfegr powhereh `oses at tfe tfoumftoc narryg`m cor eko`ongk reaso`s, swearg`m tfat ‗s
sonetfg`m tfey wouih `ever ho, `o natter fowpoor tfey were. Jut tfe`, tfey hgh`‗t mrow up g`Lokflor. Xfere gs a jgm hgflere`ke jetwee` narry-g`m g`to weaitf a`h narryg`m out oc poverty. O`e
fas nukf, a`h kraves nore. Xfe otfer fas `otf-g`m, jut wa`ts a igttie. Xryg`m to kfa`me tfe ohhscor fappg`ess fa`heh to you jy cate a`h miojaipoigtgks gs tfe o`iy tfg`m you ka` ho, gc you jeigeveyou are mgve` jut o`e kfa`ke at igce.
gt how` o` a pgeke oc paper a`h fa`hs gt to ne. Gtreaiiy gs a @orwemga` `ane. [fe asls ne gc G kouihtry to fi`h fgn cor fer. G say G wgii try, a`h put tfe`ote g` ny poklet as we roii how` tfe nag` streetg` fer snaii fonetow`. G ho`‗t fave tfe feart toteii fer tfe `ane gs so konno` tfere nust jefu`hrehs oc @orwemga`s kaiieh dust tfat.
]e say moohjye o` tfe husty street outsgheLokflor narlet.
cor ko`versatgo`, jut gc you‗re aio`e tfere‗s a ng`g-igjrary to peruse (aitfoumf igterary kiassgks are tfg`o` tfe mrou`h). Kfekl out tfe Anergka` pa`kalescor jrealcast, top narls. $$$
Cour [easo`s (113a, Xy`ysta`ova)O`e oc tfe posfest piakes to eat out g` Jgsflel.Eiema`t, yet noher` g`tergor a`h poigte servgke.Mreat piake to spiasf out o` a spekgai okkasgo` or
dust cor tfe feii oc gt. $$$$
Hola Rgzza (7=, Alfu`jaeva) Xfe ever-popuiar Hola Rgzza, ope` `o`-stop, pro-vghes heke`t igve nusgk o` nost `gmfts a`h a wgh-era`mg`m ne`u. Xfere‗s a iarme eatg`m area outsghe
Xgne Out G (=a, Xomoiol Noiho) Xfe tea, serveh g` a` or`ate tea pot wgtf a` eiaj-orate tea-kozy tfat kouih wg` prgzes, moes a snaiiway to dustgcyg`m tfe fgmf prgkes oc tfe cooh. Jut
o`iy a snaii way. $$$
Xgne Out GG ([ovgetslaya/Morlova)Useh to je our prgne 5an post-party krasf-pgt.
A. Ruii to a fait a sace hgsta`ke jecore tfe krossg`mpiake, sngie warniy a`h sgm`ai cor fer to kross atfer iegsure. Wou ceei warn a`h cuzzy g`sghe at yourmesture oc moohwgii.J. G krease your speeh cron nagn to lgii, fo`l your
for` severai tgnes jecore you reakf tfe krosswail a`hseverai tgnes nore o`ke you‗ve passeh to ran fonetfe pog`t tfat sfe was a ko`tenptgjie ghgot cor `otusg`m tfe u`herpass two lgionetres how` tfe street.K. Fo`l your for`, tfe` ahdust your hrgvg`mtradektory 12 hemrees so as to katkf fer wgtf tfeiect kor`er oc your juii jars, se`hg`m fer agig`m
Wou eeh to hrgve fone cron your iokai aiefouse jut tfe
narsfrutlas fave stoppeh ru` g`m. ]fat ho you ho?
A. Ko`kehe to yourseic tfat you are experge`kg`m a
ievei oc g`toxgkatgo` g`konpatgjie wgtf hrgvg`m fone,fagi a taxg a`h poigteiy emotgate a cagr prgke fone.J. [trummie wgtf tfe iokl oc your kar g` tfe harl,koiiapse g` a feap g`to tfe kar seat perpiexeh tfatsonejohy fas stoie` your steerg`m wfeei, reaigzeyour error, kignj over tfe seats g`to tfe cro`t oc tfekar, start tfe e`mg`e at tfe tfgrh attenpt a`h hrgve
fone aio`m tfe jakl streets to avogh tfe poigke.K. Rgkl up a koupie oc harl jeers cron tfe lgosl overtfe roah, met g` your kar a`h hrgve ammressgveiy g`toa tree at a speeh cast e`oumf to resuit g` a koiigsgo`iouh e`oumf to wale up tfe egmfjourfooh.
;. O`e nor`g`m as you are ajout to start your hrgve
to worl, you kone akross a `egmfjour attenptg`m to
hrgve tfe opposgte way how` your hrgveway g`to tfe
kourtyarh oc your jiokl oc ats. ]fat ho you ho?
A. ]ave at your `egmfjour, reverse kainiy g`to ako`ve`ge`t spake five netres jakl how` tfe hrgvewaya`h g`sgst your mooh egmfjour fas tfe rgmft oc way.J. [tare at your `egmfjour g` a ng`atory casfgo`tfroumf your krakleh wg`hsfgeih as a kiear sgm`aitfere gs`‗t a kfa`ke g` feii tfat you‗ii jakl how` g` tfgsnakfo jattie oc wgiis. Acter a` ojvgous gnpasse fasjee` reakfeh, try to jiow your ahversary jaklwarhs
a`h out oc tfe way jy tfe power ocyour iouh for`.K. [ian your fa`hjrale o`, g`m your hoor ope`,
met out oc your kar teii your `egmfjour to met tfe N o s t i y J s ‛ K o ` m r a t u i a t g o ` s , y o u a r e o ` e o c
t f e k g t y ‗ s n o r e r e fi ` e h n o t o r g s t s N o s t i y K s ‛ W o u a r e p r o j a j i y a t a x g h r g v e r