SPEED TASTING REPORT Bend it Like Chardonnay

110 / the tasting panel / august 2012

SPEED TASTING REPORT

Left to right: Wilfred Wong, Cellar Master for BevMo!; Nicole Kosta, Beverage Director at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, San Francisco; Petra Polakovicova, Wine Director for Epic Roasthouse/San Fran; Meridith

May, Publisher/Executive Editor, THE TASTING PANEL; Alan Johnson, CEO, BevMo! (who stayed to watch the event); Shelley Lindgren, Wine Director and owner of restaurant A-16 in San Francisco; Tim

McDonald, public relations expert, Wine Spoken Here; Jennifer Ingellis, General Manager and Wine Director, Brassica, Napa Valley; and Eduardo Dingler, Wine Director at Morimoto, Napa.

Bend it LikeChardonnay

august 2012 / the tasting panel / 111

Whether fat and buttery, lean and structured, tropical and fruity or clean and mineral-edgy, Chardonnay is perhaps the most versatile of all varietals. It all begins with one little grape, but distinct terroir, winemaker infl uence and aging techniques come together in a swirl of possibilities to result in the

wide range of styles that make Chardonnay so interesting and unique.THE TASTING PANEL, ever intrigued by the charms of Chardonnay,

decided to explore the realm of possibilities in the varietal’s expression in the glass, and we invited a few of our favorite Northern California buyers to join us as we delved into Chards from around the world.

We set up our Chardonnay Headquarters at BevMo!’s corporate offi ce in Concord, CA, where Cellar Master Wilfred Wong joined our panel of eight of the most infl uential decision- and taste-makers in and around San Francisco and Napa Valley as we blind tasted our way through ten fabulous Chards.

During 45 minutes of tasting, swishing and spitting, our panel dis-cussed everything from whether a wine is more suitable for a retail or restaurant environment, to pondering general sales trends for unoaked versus oaky Chards. For instance, Petra Polakovicova, Wine Director at San Francisco’s Epic Roasthouse, says that Chardonnay continues to be the most popular varietal, but notes that less oaked versions are ahead of oaky-style offerings. Eduardo Dingler, Wine Director at Napa’s Morimoto admits that while most food does “not cater to large-style whites, demand for these monsters does exist. But we also sell a lot of lean Chardonnays.”

The roundtable format continued as each Chard was revealed and presented by a brand representative, and from the ten Chards in our glass that day, the variety expressed was tremendous. “It is so important to have this type of communication,” explained Wong, who is a major part of the team that oversees wine selections in all BevMo! locations, including the retail chain’s most recent expansion into Washington State. “We’re all part of the same community that is working to bring the customer the best wines possible,” says Wong.

Cheers to that, and cheers to Chardonnay! —Meridith May

THE MALLEABILITY OF THIS GRAPE INSPIRED OUR RECENT BLIND SPEED TASTING

photos by Nikki Ritcher

Wilfred Wong is the Cellar Master for BevMo! and was our host and lead panelist for this special blind speed tasting, held at the company’s new corporate o∞ ces in Concord, CA.


Tasting Blind First, Then Revealing, One by OneHere are the wines we tasted and the panelists notes during the blind portion of the tasting.

REVEAL NUMBER ONE:

THE CARNEROS BENDBouchaine Estate 2010 Chardonnay, Carneros (SRP $30, “new release”)

Stacked with layers of flavors, Bouchaine Chardonnay speaks the language of this cool growing region with a lime/ginger pungency. The winery farms 40 acres of Chardonnay, uses five different strains of yeast and utilizes ML a-plenty to achieve its surprisingly full texture. Using various barrels, winemaker Michael Richmond insists, “There is no such thing as a neutral barrel,” and claims this wine’s flavors “resonate on demand with different food settings. It responds to me with the most respect.”

The Panel’s comments:“Lemon curd, crystallized ginger,

butter poached apples! I really like the weight of this not-too-ripe but full Chardonnay . . . I can imagine its versatility.” —Shelley Lindgren

“Pleasant to drink and the oak is in check (lovely vanilla brûlée) with a clean, bright, crisp finish.” —Petra Polakovicova

REVEAL NUMBER TWO:

THE STEEL MAGNOLIA BENDOyster Bay 2011 Marlborough Chardonnay, New Zealand (SRP $15)

Small clusters, small berries and intense fruit are tell-tale signs for the character of this unique profile of Chardonnay—a benchmark example of Marlborough’s unique cool climate viticulture. Family-owned Oyster Bay is one of the country’s top producers, and this fruit, grown in the Wairau Valley, experiences a long, extended growing season. With no ML, limited barrel aging and lees stirring in stainless steel, this Chardonnay had the panel guessing.

The Panel’s comments:“It had floral, sweet tones—passion

fruit notes and citrus—that reminded me of a Chenin Blanc. Pretty, bright and aromatic, with a light slate finish.” —Jennifer Ingellis

“Bone dry, with a slightly nutty/candied pineapple effect .The mineral-ity adds complexity. But the white floral notes and pink grapefruit are an unusual twist. It would be a great pairing with tuna tartare at Morimoto.” —Eduardo Dingler

Bouchaine’s VP of Wine Production and Sales Greg Gauthier and GM and winemaker Michael Richmond.

Oyster Bay’s Western Regional Sales Manager, Steven Wyngard, and Chain Account Manager (Western U.S. ), Larry Miltko.


Tasting Blind First, Then Revealing, One by One

REVEAL NUMBER THREE:

HIGH-ELEVATION BENDAntica Napa Valley 2010 Estate Chardonnay, Antinori Family Estate (SRP $35)

Antica represents the venerable Antinori family in California, located in a high-elevation valley in the eastern mountains of Napa Valley, at the top of the Atlas Peak AVA. The hilly terrain and rocky soils of the estate comprise the formula that Piero Antinori thought ideal for grape-growing. The Chardonnay is grown on 10- to 22-year-old vines at 1,400 feet on alluvial Bale Clay Loam and Perkins Gravelly Loam soils. Five clones from nine vineyard selections, each with their own identifiable qualities, go into making Antica Chardonnay.

The Panel’s comments:“Dust and earth start the mineral process on the

palate, while an onset of creamy oak and stone fruit join the parade. There’s a lot going on in this firm, structured Chardonnay.” —Wilfred Wong

“Voluptuous California signature from obviously expressive terroir; full and elegant brioche and red apple slant with good acidity, start to finish.” —Nicole Kosta

Jennifer Scott DWS, Luxury Business Development Manager, California, at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

REVEAL NUMBER FOUR:

BEND IT . . . DELICATELyChiarina 2010 Chardonnay, California (SRP $15)

This small-production Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards across California’s top cool-climate growing regions, with an empha-sis on Sonoma County. Straightforward and bright, the fine acidity and delicate nature of this pretty white lends itself to be a great food pairing wine.

The Panel’s comments:“Light and ethereal on

the nose and a tropical shininess on the palate. Beautiful mango to pineapple and banana notes with a singing minerality on the finish.” —Meridith May

“Alluring mid-gold color, the lemon zest and acacia flowers meld with a crushed white rock minerality. Great creamy texture. This would be great on Epic’s patio on a Sunday afternoon.” —Petra Polakovicova

Kristy Fisher is the Customer Representative for C&C Distributors.



REVEAL NUMBER FIVE:

BLEND IT TO BEND ITB Cellars 2011 Blend 23, California (SRP $33)

Blending is an art form at B Cellars, where co-founders Duffy Keys and Jim Borsack work with winemaker Kirk Venge to explore wines with nuance. “We

make wines for chefs,” says Borsack. “They can craft dishes that meld with the components of our wines.” Ingredient-driven wine is a concept, and this fusion Chardonnay is a fine example: a blend of 51% Chardonnay from vineyards in Carneros, Green Valley and Rutherford, 37% Sauvignon Blanc and 12% Viognier from Pope Valley. While the barrel-fermented Chardonnay offers citrus and minerality, the Sauv Blanc is the tropical section; the Viognier adds body and a garden of flowers.

The Panel’s comments:“Well-structured with lemongrass, crème brûlée and vanilla bean. This is seamless, smooth and rich with a finish

of juicy white peach; great for customers who enjoy crisp whites.” —Shelley Lindgren

“Tastes like a super blend: a little spice on the nose with a hint of orange blossom and jasmine. It’s a fruit and floral medley. Lovely, lean and elegant.” —Tim McDonald

REVEAL NUMBER SIX:

BEND IT WITH CHALKRodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Sonoma County Chardonnay, Chalk Hill AVA (SRP $18.99)

Synonymous with Sonoma County, Rodney Strong Vineyards’ was the first to designate a wine from the Chalk Hill AVA after planting Chardonnay there over 30 years ago. The white reflective soil is actually derived from volcanic ash that leaves that stony or “chalky” sensation on the tongue. This Chardonnay is barrel fermented and aged in new and seasoned oak for nine months, with regular lees stirring that shows off its creamy rich texture.

Our Panel’s comments:“Vanilla bean custard is enticing on the

nose. The palate is extracted and concentra-tion of guava and melon play to a long finish.” —Eduardo Dingler

“Toasted marshmallow is a sweet start – and further along, the oak is well integrated so you can actually call this rather creamy wine “lithe,” with a mineral back.” —Meridith May

Vin DiVino Western Regional Manager Jim McGuire represents B Cellars.

Quinn McManus, Northern California Area Manager for Rodney Strong Vineyards.


REVEAL NUMBER SEVEN:

BEND IT WITH CLONES{Noble Vines} 446 2010 Chardonnay, Monterey (SRP $12)

“Our line of Noble Vines wines pay homage to the best clones from our terroir,” says winemaker James Ewart. "Here in California, we’ve planted a selection of these vines exactly where they will flourish best. Single Vineyard 446 Chardonnay is named for VineType 4 grown in Block 46 of our San Bernabe Vineyard. San Bernabe’s cool growing sea-son and diverse soil types add to 446 Chardonnay’s brilliant color, juicy tropical and citrus flavors and supple finish.” 2010 was Monterey’s coolest grow-ing season since 1998, resulting in concentrated color and flavor.

Our Panel’s comments:“Meyer lemon and Sierra Beauty apple make

for a crisp and juicy entry. Just so full of flavor: This style is perfectly lean with a touch of coconut sweetness.” —Shelley Lindgren

Creamy banana and coconut purée (fun!) with a lemon/lime and green apple crispness lends layers to a creamy texture and full bodied white. Very easy drinking.” —Petra Polakovicova

James Ewart is the winemaker for {Noble Vines} 446 Chardonnay.

REVEAL NUMBER EIGHT:

BEND WITH BLENDED LOTSBlack Stallion Estate Winery 2010 Chardonnay, Napa Valley (SRP $19)

From a boutique Napa Valley winery on the Silverado Trail in the Oak Knoll District, Black Stallion Estate Winery crafts wines from small vineyard lots. This cool-climate 2010 vintage Chardonnay is

aged in French oak and goes through malolactic fermentation to create body, concentration and a creamy character. A great value wine.

Our Panel’s comments:“As ripe and lush as it is,

it’s zippy to the core with a steady line of minerality.” —Wilfred Wong

“Green apple is center stage but minerality plays a major role, along with great acidity. A subtle, pretty wine with a medium-long finish. I would pair with our Drake’s Bay oysters with hajike butter.” —Nicole Kosta

Holly Evans is Director of Public Relations for DFV Wines.



REVEAL NUMBER NINE:

BENT FOR TExTURELiberty School 2010 Chardonnay, Central Coast (SRP $15)

Whole cluster–pressed and –fermented and stirred on the lees, this cool climate, lush Chardonnay defines mouthfeel. Sourced from vineyard sites in and around the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County (a Region 1 cool climate indeed!), the wine’s natural acidity sets the stage for its fruit and floral components. Six percent Viognier is blended in.

Our Panel’s comments:“Well done! A leaner style California Chardonnay that feels

like a Chardonnay and offers varietal typicity of citrus, lime, pear and papaya cleansing capabilities.” —Shelley Lindgren

“Alive and crisp, with elegant tannins and a fresh apple and citrus profile.” —Wilfred Wong

REVEAL NUMBER TEN:

BEND IT WITH ORGANICALLy GROWN GRAPESBonterra 2010 Organic Chardonnay, Mendocino County ($12)

Winemaker Bob Blue adopts a style that deliberately uses a combination of oak and stainless steel to emphasize the crisp fresh-ness of organically grown fruit from Mendocino. Seventy percent of the juice is fermented in a combination of French and American oak, which is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation. The remaining 30 percent is fermented in stainless steel to preserve the crisp fresh fruit flavors. Most of the wine is aged in previously-used or neutral oak. New oak was used for just 16 percent of the wine to give this Chardonnay a vanilla note.

Our Panel’s comments:“Bright apple, a fine acidity through its very core and a light oak

touch, bring life to this lean white.” —Jennifer Ingellis

“Ripe stone fruit meets a chalky texture: clean from start to finish. Tropical fruit, a tart lime middle and green apple notes add layers.” —Petra Polakovicova

Joel Peterson of Hope Family Wines.

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SPEED TASTING REPORT Bend it Like Chardonnay

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