Specialty Chemicals and Dyes used in the Apparel and Footwear Industry to watch Restricted Substances Seminar September 21, 2006 Sheraton Hotel, Dongguan,

Specialty Chemicals and Dyes

used in the

Apparel and Footwear Industry

to watch

Restricted Substances Seminar

September 21, 2006

Sheraton Hotel, Dongguan, China

Outline

The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions

Selected Laws & Regulations for the Textile & Leather Industry

Classes of Restricted Substances

Selected examples of Restricted Substances

Azo Dyes

Phthalates

Organic Tin Compounds

Formaldehyde

General Solution/Guideline

Chemicals

WorkerWaste Water

SolidWaste

Waste Air

Chemicals in Textile & Leather

Environment


RISK = EXPOSURE x HAZARD

EXPOSURE: defined by application, composition of textile chemical

emission reduction measures, workplace hygiene measures

HAZARD: defined by toxicological/ecological profile

The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for RestrictionsThe Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions

Strategy to minimize RISK:

Avoid Hazard

Minimize Exposure


Council Directive 75/442/EECTR for Waste Management

Air Emission reduction “TA-Luft”VOC Directive 1999/13/EC

Formaldehyde - IARC GB/T 18885-2002, GB 18041-2001

German Goods Ordinance EU Directive 2003/11/EC (Flame Retardants)

Commission Decision 2004/781/EC (Cd) New Phthalate Directive 2005/84/EC Council Directive 94/27/EC (Ni)

Directive 2002/61/EC (Azo Dyes)

Waste Water Ordinance – AbwV TEGEWA Voluntary Commitment

Directive 2003/53/EC (NPE)Detergent Directive 648/2004/EC

Council Directive 76/464/EEC

GHS, REACH, Kyoto List Commission Directive 2001/59/EC

Directive 2006/15/EC (MAK) White Book on Chemicals Directive 98/8/EC (Biocides)

California Proposition 65

etc.


Formaldehyde

Heavy Metals

Pesticides

Biological Active Products

Biocides

Monomers

Phthalates


Dyes and Amines


Halogenated Compounds

Flame Retardants

PVC

APEO

Chlorinated Bleaching Agents

Solvents

Isocyanates

Asbestos

Dioxins and Furans

Outline





Azo Dyes

Phthalates


Formaldehyde


Selected Examples of Restricted Substances

Common Sources of Failures in Textile & Leather Processing:

- Formaldehyde

- Heavy Metals (e.g. Cadmium, Chrome VI, Lead, Nickel)

- Organic Tin Compounds

- Phthalates

- APEO

- Dangerous Azo Dyes and Carcinogenic Aryl Amines

- etc.

Selected Examples of Restricted Substances

Common Sources of Failures in Textile & Leather Processing:

- Formaldehyde

- Heavy Metals (e.g. Cadmium, Chrome VI, Lead, Nickel)

- Organic Tin Compounds

- Phthalates

- APEO

- Dangerous Azo Dyes and Carcinogenic Aryl Amines

- etc.

Azo Dyes – some are dangerous

a) Toxicology: Some dyes can have adverse effects on

humans, even can cause cancer

b) Laws: Council Directive 76/769/EEC and

German Ordinance on Materials

c) RSL: Aromatic Amines

e.g. H&M (30 ppm each)

Levis (n.d. DL=30 ppm each)

Nike (20 ppm each)

d) Sources in Textiles and Leather:

- Colorants: Pigments (textile coating) & Dyes

Dangerous Dyes

e.g. Levis (n.d. DL=5 ppm each)

H&M (1 ppm each)

Nike (5 ppm each)

Azo Dyes – some are dangerous Solution

High Colour Fastness (staining)

to water, to acidic perspiration, to alkaline perspiration, to dry rubbing

Proper selection of dyes"Lists" , e.g. Oeko-Tex Standard 100Recommendations of dye producers and associations (e.g. ETAD)

Avoid respective dangerous Azo Dyes, ask for certificates from the chemical supplier.

BASF does not manufacture or supply

restricted Azo colorants


a) Toxicology: - harmful effects on immune and reproductive

system

- skin irritation

- teratogenic (e.g. for snails)

- aqua-toxic

b) Laws: banned by Council Directive 91/338/EEC

c) RSL: e.g. H&M: e.g. ban of TBT and others

Levis: e.g. ban of TBT and others

Nike: TBT and/or TPhT



- TBT as catalyst to manufacture polyurethane dispersions

(Adhesives based on PU-chemistry)

- TBT as biocide for storage

- anti-odor agent

Organic Tin CompoundsSolution

Ask for organic tin free solutions from suppliers, ask for

certificate.

BASF offers organic tin free PU dispersions.

Phthalates

a) Toxicology: - suspected sex change chemicals

- suspected carcinogen

b) Laws: EU Directive 2005/84/EC (will take effect from

16th January 2007)

DEHP

BBP

DBT

DINP 0.1% by mass of the plasticized material

DIDP in toys and childcare articles which can be

DNOP placed in mouth by children

0.1% by mass of the plasticized materialin toys and childcare articles

Phthalates

c) RSL: e.g. H&M: e.g. DINP, DEHP and others

Levis: DINP and DEHP

Nike: DINP, DEHP and others


- plasticizer for PVC

Textiles: - plastisol prints

- for pigment printing and coating as softener

Leather: - PVC mock leather, laminates

Phthalates Solution

Avoid PVC, ask for certificates from chemical supplier.

BASF offers phthalate free solutions in both

printing and coating systems

BASF's experts can support phase out of

phthalates

Formaldehyde

a)Toxicology: - irritation of skin, eyes and mucous membranes - can cause allergies

- Indication of nasopharyngeal carcinogenic effect

(IARC classified FAH as “carcinogenic to humans”, June 15th, 2004)

b) Laws: Beside general laws, especially for Textiles: Japan – LAW 112 (n.d.)

China – GB 1804-2001 (Oeko Tex Standard 100 limits)

c) RSL: Textile: Restrictions often refer to Law 112 or Oeko Tex Standard 100 (kids 20 ppm , adults 75 ppm)

Leather: Automotive Industry (VDA): <10 ppm Shoe industry: < 150 ppm (children < 50 ppm)

Formaldehyde


Textiles: - Binders and fixing agents in pigment printing and

coating

- Cross-linking agents (non-iron, wrinkle free)

- Dyeing auxiliaries, e.g. fixing agents

- Preservative

Leather: - Tanning auxiliaries and cross linkers

- Fixing agents

Formaldehyde Solution:

e) Solutions: Pay attention to required FAH-Test Method!!!! - Supply free-of or low FAH auxiliaries- Consider an extra-washing step- Follow application suggestion for low FAH levels in

garment/leather- Take care of package and other additional FAH-sources

BASF offers a wide range of FAH free or low FAH chemicals. Low FAH-recipes are available and examined for textile and leather products.

Outline





Azo Dyes

Phthalates


Formaldehyde



General solution/guideline: Choose right supplier!

How can you identify the right supplier?

Knows Laws & Restrictions (and RSL) Provides correctly labeled Products Provides SDS Provides Technical Information sheets and Technical Support Provides Training and Support on Application, Ecological & Toxicological aspects etc.

More easy: Supplier has committed himself to Sustainable Development


So

ciet

y

Eco

log

y

Eco

no

my

Sustainable Development

“Sustainable Development is a process of developing that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”(United Nations, Brundtland Report, 1978)

BASF –The Chemical

Company

BASF –The Chemical

Company

Earn a premium on our cost of capital

Help our

customers to be more

successful

From the best team in industry

Ensure sustainable

development


Thank you for your attention!

Jack C. W. LamManager TextilesRBU Performance Chemicals Asia PacificEmail: [email protected]: +852 2731 1287

Claudia Swoboda-Rossouw Ecology Manager Asia Technical Center, Textiles Email: [email protected]: +86 21 58611828-2855

Alfred LinIndustry Manager - FootwearAsia Technical Center, LeatherEmail:[email protected]: +86 21 58611828-2402

Specialty Chemicals and Dyes used in the Apparel and Footwear Industry to watch Restricted Substances Seminar September 21, 2006 Sheraton Hotel, Dongguan,

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