South-china

SOUTH CHINA BLEACHING AND DYEING FACTORY LIMITED

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CHAPTER 1

Introduction About an Organization


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1.1 Preface

South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd is a Private Limited Company with

limited liability on 8 March 1994 and commenced commercial operation in 1995

and also went into the public issue of shares and debentures in the same year. The

shares of the Company are listed in the Dhaka and Chittagong Stock Exchanges of

Bangladesh.

South China B & D Factory Ltd. is mainly Chinese company and running from Hong

Kong office. Most of the order were issuing from head office which is placed on

Hong Kong.

South China B & D Factory Ltd. is the most modern composite mill in the region.

South China Ltd. has an installed capacity of 288 high-speed air-jet looms in its

weaving section and a high-tech dyeing and finishing section with a capacity of

100,000 yards of finished fabric per day. This company is located at the DEPZ,

Savar, Dhaka.

South China B & D Factory Ltd. has a state of the art composite Woven fabric

production mill, which serves the growing needs of high-quality Woven garments

exporters in Bangladesh. The project was set up as a state of the art Woven fabric,

dyeing and finishing facility. During the year the Company produced and sold high

quality of Woven fabrics and bringing forth all the latest in hard and soft

technologies in Woven, dyeing and finishing of Woven fabric.

1.2 South china corporate profile

Since independence of Bangladesh has come a long way, and the South China Group

of Companies is honored to have had a role in the development of its parent nation.

The Group has worked with a simple philosophy; identify an important need and

then do everything possible to successfully satiate that need, in a manner which best

facilitates the well-being of the nation. As a result, South China has focused on those

industries which give Bangladesh a competitive advantage in the global market place


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in many cases creating the industries for the first time in the region. Throughout its

four and a half decade journey the Group has been one of the leading innovators in

the country.

Presently South China Group comprises twenty-one companies of which five are

listed with the Dhaka Stock Exchange employing over 35,000 personnel and is the

largest private sector industrial conglomerate in the nation. In the course of its

growth, it has created industrial and management capabilities that will serve the

country for generations to come. It was the first local conglomerate to embrace an

international corporate structure which is the foundation of its success. SOUTH

CHINA's industrial businesses is mainly textiles.

It is the creation and expansion of businesses critical to Bangladesh 's development,

businesses, which are developed and run by Bangladeshis, businesses that develop

technologies and practices specific to the needs of the country, which is the defining

characteristic of the SOUTH CHINA story.

1.3 Mission

Each of our activities must benefit and add value to the common wealth of our

society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are accountable to each of

the constituents with whom we interact; namely: our employees, our customers, our

business associates, our fellow citizens and our shareholders.

1.4 Vision

To build a true marketing leading enterprise with motivated workforce, innovation

vison and more value added product portfolio, customer satisfaction and

understanding of global market.

▪ To be one of best leading composite mill in Bangladesh.

▪ Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA and Europe.

▪ Use “Innovative and Speed” as prime drivers, rather than cotton and cheap

labor.


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1.5 WAY TO ADJUST SOUTH CHINA B & D FACTORY LIMITED

EPZ

EPZ

Bangladesh

UAE maitry

Complex

Abdullahpur Banani Mahakhali

Chokroborti Bipile Nobinagar

Tongi

Ashulia

E

S

W

N


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CHAPTER 2

LAY-OUT PLAN


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Contents of layout plan

SL Department

01 Layout Plan For Goldex Limitted

02 Lay-out Plan for South China B & D Factory Limitted

03 Preparatory Department

04 Weaving 1

05 Weaving 2

06 Weaving 3

Quality Assurance (Manual & Automatic)


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CHAPTER 3

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT

PRODUCTION PROCESS


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3.1 PRODUCTION FLOW CHART:

(South China B & D Factory Limited)

Grey Fabric Inspection

Sigeing

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Mercerizing

Brushing (With or without)

Dyeing/ Printing

Finishing

Final Inspection

Rolling


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3.2 Production Flow Chart

(Goldtex Limited)

Warping

Sizing

Drawing-In

Tying-In

Weaving

Delivery


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3.3 Company profile

CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS:

Plot No. 93-100

Dhaka Export Processing Zone

Gonakbari, Savar

Dhaka, Bangladesh

Phone: 880-2-7789223-4,

BUSINESS LINE:

Manufacturing and Marketing Woven,

Fabrics & Dyeing.

LISTING STATUS: Public Listed Company.

STOCK EXCHANGE LISTING:

Dhaka and Chittagong .

AUTHORIZED CAPITAL IN BDT: 3,000 Million Taka

PAID UP CAPITAL IN BDT: 1,882.50 Million Taka

NUMBER OF SHAREHOLDERS: 37,929

NUMBER OF LOOMS woven

INSTALLED:

212

PRODUCTION CAPACITY: 28 Million Linear Meters

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 727

3.4 Factory Equipment

Different types of weaving, dyeing, cutting, sewing, finishing and generator

machines are supplied from China, Germany, Italy, Japan, Taiwan, U.K, USA,

Singapore etc.


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3.5 Production Capacity

1 lac yards/ day (Woven dyeing)

12 tons/ day (Woven dyeing)

3.6 Certification and Award

1. ISO 9001:2000 Certificate

2. OEKKO-TEX Certified.

3.7 Product of South China

Fabrics:

▪ Oxford

▪ Canvas

▪ Dobby twill

▪ S Twill

▪ Z Twill

▪ Poplin

▪ Satin

Finishing:

▪ Wrinkle Free

▪ Easy Care

▪ Peach

▪ Chintz

▪ Paper Touch

▪ Teflon Coated

▪ Water Repellent

▪ Water Resistance

▪ Rubberized


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Dyeing:

▪ Solid Dyed

▪ T/C

▪ Polyester

3.8 Production department:

South China Ltd. is a fully vertical unit from weaving to finishing, Printing,

Washing and Packaging.

i. Weaving

ii. Dyeing

iii. Printing

iv. Finishing

v. Apparel (Goldtex garments Ltd)

3.8.1 Raw material:

Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry.

It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.

3.8.2 Types of Raw Materials:

i. Yarn

ii. Fabric

iii. Dye stuff

iv. Chemical and auxiliaries

3.8.3 Specialization fabrics:

i. Fully cotton

ii. Cotton + Lycra


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iii. Cotton + Polyester

iv. Cotton + Viscose

3.9 Basic procedure of planning &control

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within the

required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable, “Planning”

gives a scheduled task and ‘Control’ completes it successfully. But production

planning and control is not an easy task. So SOUTH CHINA has a self-sufficient

and high-performance department called “Production Planning & Control”. Its Basic

working procedure is as follows-

1. Taking orders from marketing division.

2. Analyzing the orders.

3. Planning for weaving the fabric.

4. Planning for dyeing the fabric.

5. Planning for finishing the fabric.

6. Cost analysis & load time.

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order.

Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the

white goods. Then some steps are omitted from the planning procedure.

3.9.1 Taking orders from marketing division:

SOUTH CHINA marketing division supplies Fabric Orders to the BTL Planning

and control division by a special format.

3.9.2 Analyzing the orders:

This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of orders

(i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which

M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans


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for required quantity of fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for

delivery), RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance.

3.9.3 Planning for weaving:

This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weaving the fabric

for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives

delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning

mills by a specific schedule.

3.9.4 Planning for dyeing the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called ‘Batch Plan’. According to the batch no.

and color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand

this section gives some ‘T’. Cards. ‘T’ card is serialized according to the priority of

delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and

lastly the dark shades, so that faulty shades can be converted to dark color later.

3.9.5 Planning for finishing the fabric:

Finishing schedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the

finishing section with the process rout card. Finished data is written to the rout card

and is informed to the planning section.

However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finishing all the

works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials

to the garment factory in the lead time. Thus it plays a very important role in the

success of the company.


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3.10 Infrastructure of south China

3.10.1 Factory property

▪ 20 acres

▪ 2 million sq ft buildings

▪ 15,00 workers

▪ About 2900 employers.

3.10.2 Integrated Plant and Machinery

▪ Woven

▪ Dyeing

▪ Finishing

▪ Fashion Apparel

▪ Fashion washing

3.10.3 Environmental Control

Effluent Treatment Plant designed to meet best International Standards.

3.10.4 Design Studio

Collaborative Partnership with Zara, PVH, JCP, H&M and Mothercare yarns,

fabrics, fashion apparel.


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3.11 SOUTH CHINA PARTNERS WITH MAJOR RETAILERS &

INTERNATIONAL BRANDS


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CHAPTER 4

MANPOWER MANAGEMENT


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4.1 Organogram of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd and

Goldtex Limited


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4.2 Man Power distribution in Deferent Section

SL Department Officer Staff Worker Total

1. Accounts 9 1 0 10

2. Bleaching 3 2 67 72

3. Boiler 1 0 8 9

4. Brushing 1 0 11 12

5. Chemical Store 3 2 11 16

6. Commercial 9 2 0 11

7. Dyeing 3 4 79 86

8. Electrical 3 0 30 33

9. Fabric store 2 4 32 38

10. Finishing 2 1 43 46

11. House keeping 1 1 28 30

12. HR & Admin 7 3 0 10

13. IT 3 2 0 5

14. Laboratory 11 23 10 44

15. Marketing 13 2 0 15

16. Mechanical 5 2 50 57

17. Printing 2 1 22 25

18. Production 3 4 10 17

19. Q. A 3 0 19 22

20. Rolling 1 6 43 50

21. Security 2 0 30 32

22. Transport 0 0 17 17

23. Washing 2 0 68 70

Total 727


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4.3 Management system

▪ Buyer sample is send to G.M.

▪ Matching is done by lab in charge.

▪ Sample is prepared by dyeing master.

▪ Sample is send to the buyer for approval.

▪ Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. Sample for bulk production.

▪ Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer.

▪ Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production.

▪ On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing

master.

▪ After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the

supervision of production officer.

▪ After finishing, the material is checked by dyeing master.

▪ Finally, G.M. checks the result with dyeing master and decision is taken for

delivery.

4.3.1 Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer

To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for the

smooth running of the section.

▪ To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production

process.

▪ To match production sample with target shade.


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▪ To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production.

▪ To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing

process.

▪ To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.

▪ To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.

▪ To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM

▪ To execute the overall floor work.

▪ To maintain loading/ unloading paper.

▪ Any other assignment given by the authority.

4.3.2 Duties & Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer

▪ Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

▪ Batch preparation and pH check.

▪ Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check.

▪ Write loading / unloading time from machine.

▪ Program making, sample checking, color measurement.

▪ Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing

machine.

▪ Any other work as and when required

4.3.3 Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (Production)

▪ Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

▪ Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.

▪ Check the different log books and report to management.

▪ Check the plan to control the best output.

▪ To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality.

▪ Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing m/c

▪ Maintenance the machinery and equipment.


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4.4 Generalization

South China has been established as a modernized textile industry for its well

prepared management team and knowledgeable officers, employees, operators,

workers. The well oriented work teams of South China are continuing their work

with so many world famous buyers such as JCP, Zara, H&M etc and gaining

customer satisfaction.


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CHAPTER 5

PREPATORY SECTION


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5.1 Flow chart of weaving

Spinning Bobbin

Warp yarn preparation Weft yarn preparation

Warping Pirn, cop winding

Sizing Weaving

Drawing-in and Denting

Tying-in

Weaving


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5.2 Warping

In general terms, warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of single-end

packages forming a parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam or a section beam.

The warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is called the weaver’s beam. A

weaver’s

beam can contain several thousand ends and for different reasons it is rarely

produced in one

operation.

Fig: Direct warping machine (Benninger)

5.2.1 Objects of Warping:

To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be

collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for

sizing or next process.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/06/sizing-functions-of-sizing-operation_8664.html


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5.2.2 Types of Warping:

Two types of yarn warping are used in weaving.

1. Direct/ High Speed Warping

2. Indirect/Sectional warping

In south china Bleaching & Dyeing factory Ltd. Only Direct/ High speed warping is

running.

5.2.3 High Speed Warping

High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high speed

warping the yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at

once and simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for

making fabric of single colour.

5.2.4 Warping process involves

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/define-warping-requirements-of-warping_6541.html


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5.2.5 Machine Specification

5.2.6 Machine Name:

1. BENNINGER

2. BENNINGER-KARL MAYER

Origin: Switzerland

Creel Capacity: 704

Reed capacity: 630

Machine speed: 700 m/min

Target length: 24,850m

Yarn count: 16 Ne

Strength: 369.3 dtex

Beam length: 1800 mm

5.2.7 Components of warping machine

Creel

Single end creel

Magazine creel

Travelling package creel

Swivel frame creel

V – Shaped creel

Head stock

Fixed

Traveling

Due to the presence of v-shaped creel in the factory, we focused on that creel in our

discussion.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/creels-warping-creels-types-of-creel.html


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V-shaped Creel In this creel type, the creel boards are assembled in form of endless chains. While

warping is carried out from the outer sides using the already creeled up bobbins, the

subsequent yarn lot can be creeled up on the empty spindles positioned inside the

creel. This interior room serves at the same time as storage and bobbin exchange

station. The yarn lot can be changed by simply pushing a button, which starts the

electrically drive of the chains. The empty bobbins move towards the inside of the

creel, the full bobbins towards the outside.

Fig: V-shaped Creel

Components of Headstock

adjustable V-wraith

measuring and marking device

yarn speed controlling device

pneumatic or hydraulic pressure unit

break assembly

driving drum

stop motion

building drum

beam bracket

lease rod

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/04/warps-protector-motion-working.html


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5.3 Sizing

Although the quality and characteristics of the warp yarns coming out of the winding

and warping processes are good, they are still not good enough for the weaving

process for most of the yarns. The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be

strong, smooth and elastic or extensible to a certain degree. To achieve these

properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of a polymeric film forming agent

called size is applied to the warp yarns prior to the weaving this process is called

slashing or sizing. Sizing is not a value added process in woven fabric

manufacturing. This is because after the fabric is woven the size materials will be

removed from the fabric during the finishing operation which is called desizing.

The main purposes of sizing are as follows:

To increase the strength of the yarn

To reduce the yarn hairiness that would cause problems in weaving process

To increase the abrasion resistance of the yarn against other yarns and

various weaving machine elements

To reduce fluff and fly during the weaving process for high speed weaving

machines.

Figure: sizing process


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Sizing machine consists of a stand for one or more warper’s beams. This is known

as warper’s creel. The warp passes through a size bath containing size liquor (heated

to keep it at correct temperature). Excess size is removed by the squeeze rollers.

Then the warp passes through a drying section. Then the individual ends, adhered to

each other, are split using splitting rods before winding on weaver’s beam. Quality

of sizing has a significant influence on the weaving efficiency.

Figure: One dip one nip size box

Figure: Splitting of warp sheet


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5.3.1 Benefits of Sizing

It prevents the warp yarn breakage due to abrasion with neighbouring yarns

or with back rest, heald eye and reed.

It improves the yarn strength by 10 to 20%, although it is not the primary

objective of sizing process.

5.3.2 Characteristics of Sized Yarn

1. Higher strength

2. Lower elongation

3. Higher bending rigidity

4. Higher abrasion resistance

5. Lower hairiness

6. Lower frictional resistance

5.3.3 Sizing machine specifications:

South China Ltd. has one of the most modern sizing section in Bangladesh. There

are two types of sizing machine in south china Ltd .


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There are-

a) Jucker

b) Sucker + Muller (German)

Here are specifying for jucker only.

Machine Name: Jucker specifications

origin German

Duration of running 2005

Creel capacity 20

Lease rod 14

Storage Temperature 90/920 c

Winding tension 2900

Weavers speed 125 m/min

Weavers diameter 1000 mm

Barrel diameter 180mm

Target Production 100000-100015 m/day

5.3.4 Sizing Chemical Used for the below construction:

Construction: 30×30/134×80

Recipe/Chemical Name Amount

Emsize CMS 50 Kg

Emsize E-5 0

Emsize E-20 100 Kg

Wax 8 Kg

Alsize 9 Kg

Water 1000 Litre

Total Consumption 1167 Liter

Cooking time 40 min

Refraction 13%

Viscosity 55 mp.s


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5.3.5 Machine Parts(Jucker):

a) Creel

b) Immersion roller

c) Squeezing roller

d) Cylinder

e) Mahlo

f) Rotary compensating roller

g) Waxing guide roller

h) Lease rod

i) Reed

j) Comb

k) Tension roller

l) Carrier

m) Guide roller

n) Press roller

o) Weavers beam

p) Pneumatic valve

q) Circulation valve

r) Fit box

s) Squeezing pressure

t) Jet bar

u) Sonolight valve

5.3.6 Beaming

After the splitting, the warp sheet is finally wound on the weaver’s beam. The

warp sheet passes through an adjustable reed which can be expanded or collapsed

based on the width of the beam.

5.4 DRAWING-IN AND TYING-IN

5.4.1 Drawing-in:

After sizing, the warp beam is prepared to be placed on the weaving machine.

Drawing-in is to thread individual ends through weaving elements namely drop

wires, heald wires and reed when starting up a new fabric style. Special stands are

used to support various elements during the drawing-in process. Following the


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drawing-in process, the warp beam along with all the parts are transferred on to a

loom. Automated drawing-in machines may be used in large weaving facilities,

where automation justifies over manual drawing-in process.

Figure 16: Drawing-in Mechanism


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5.4.2 TYING-IN:

Fig: Tying-in process

After depletion of a warp beam on the weaving machine, if there will be no change

in design then the drawing in process need not be repeated. The ends of the old warp

beam are cut and the ends of the new warp beam are tied to the corresponding ends

of the old beam which is called tying in process. Then the warp ends are pulled

through the heddle eyes and reed until the knots are cleared. Automatic tying-in

machines are a common practice in the weaving industry.


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5.5 Weaving

5.5.1 Introduction to Weaving

Weaving is the oldest and the most common method of fabric formation. In weaving,

two sets of yarns often referred to as ‘warp’ (length-wise direction yarns - ends) and

‘weft’ (width-wise direction yarns - picks) are interlaced right angles to each other.

Fabrics can be woven from these two sets of yarns on a simple hand loom or on a

highly complex, totally automated power loom. Irrespective of whether it is a manual

operation or computerized touch-screen controlled operation, the basic weaving

concept is the same in both cases.

Weaving requires that the warp yarns be held under tension so that interlacing can

take place easily. The simplest method of interlacing is to move the weft over the

odd numbered warps and under the even numbered warps and invert this sequence

for the next pick. Repeating this sequence produces the basic type of weave which

is often referred to as ‘plain weave’.


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5.5.2 Basic Motions

Primary motions

The three primary operations, which occur in a given sequence, are:

Shedding: It is the separation of the warp yarns, which run along the fabric

length, into sheets to form an angled opening known as the shed.

Picking: Passing the weft yarn, which traverses along the fabric width,

through the shed.

Beat-up: Pushing the newly inserted weft yarn (pick) into the fabric fell (this

is the imaginary line where the woven fabric structure starts).

The two secondary motions are:

Warp let-off motion: Warp yarn is delivered from the warp beam (weavers

beam) to the weaving area at the required rate and a suitable constant tension.

Fabric take-up motion: Fabric is withdrawn from the weaving area at a

constant rate in order to achieve the required pick spacing.


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5.5.3 Types of shedding Mechanism:

1. Paddle/Treadle shedding

2. Tappet shedding

3. Dobby shedding

4. Jacquard shedding

5. Combined shedding

5.5.4 Types of weaving Looms:

1. Shuttle weaving machines

2. Shuttle less weaving machine

Shuttle less looms

Shuttleless looms can be classified as

o Solid type: Projectile (gripper shuttle) looms, Rapier looms

o Fluid type: Air Jet looms, Water Jet looms

5.5.5 In Goldtex Ltd. There are three weaving floor and each floor covered

with air jet looms with full capacity.

FLOOR QUANTITY

Weaving-I

TOYOTA-710 = 02 (810 RPM)

TSUDAKOMA = 40 (RPM>1000)

TOYOTA-600 = 52 (600RPM)

ALL TAPPET=94 Pcs

Production= 34,915 yds/day

Eff= 90% (avg)

Weaving-II

Total Loom= 59

Weaving-III Total Loom = 68


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5.5.6 Air Jet Looms:

Figure: Air jet loom

The first known concept of air jet weft insertion is by Brooks (Lancashire, England)

in 1914. In 1929, Ballou (USA) developed a suction nozzle at the receiving side to

complement Brooks’ insertion nozzle. First commercial air jet weaving machine was

patented in 1945 by Max Paabo (Sweden), by employing guide plates to reduce air

diffusion (figure 26a). These machines were initially manufactured by Maxbo in

Sweden and subsequently by Murata- Maxbo in Japan. Around same time in Czech

republic, air jet looms were developed by incorporating confusors (figure 26b,27) in

the shed in order to minimise air diffusion –these looms were running at1000

picks/minute. Dutch company, te Strake developed relay nozzles (figure 26c, 27).

This development (relay nozzles) along with profile reed has become a standard in

modern air jet looms.

Figure: Three methods for reducing air diffusion


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Figure: Principle of air jet weft insertion


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Weft insertion in commercial air jet looms

Figure 28: weft insertion elements

Figure shows various components in a commercial air jet weft insertion system.

Weft yarn is supplied by a weft accumulator (1) to the main nozzle. Weft

accumulator stores a metered length of yarn releases during weft insertion under low

(and uniform) tension. The main nozzle is supplied with ‘air jet’ by actuating high

speed valve (2). Once the weft yarn enters the shed, relay nozzles (3) are actuated in

small groups are actuated by high speed valves. The weft is constrained in the profile

reed (4). Stretch nozzle (5) applies tension to the yarn and keeps it taught until beat-

up process. First of the two optical sensors (6) detects the pick and estimates the weft

flight time. Supply pressure is automatically adjusted for different yarn types, based

on weft flight time. For example, filament yarns require higher pressure in

comparison to spun yarns; rotor spun yarns require high pressure than ring spun

yarns. In the event of a broken pick, second optical sensor will be triggered and the

broken pick is extracted by the suction tube at the end.

Figure: withdrawal of relay nozzles during beat-up


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Relay nozzles are mounted on the sley in such a position that they automatically

move out of the shed during beat-up.

5.6 Construction of some grey fabrics:

1. 150×80 /50×80+40D

2. 133×72 /40×40+40D

3. 150×80 /50×40+40

4. 128×60 / 20×16+70D

5. 120×76 /40×40+4

6. 130×80 / 40×40

7. 80×56 /20×16 +70D

8. 120×54 / 20×16 +70D

9. 133×94 / 40×40

10. 124×62 / 20×16

11. 110×76 /45×45

12. 120×64 / 30×30+20

13. 108×52 /45l×34/2

14. 90×32 /10×6sl


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CHAPTER 6

GREY FABRIC INSPECTION


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6.1 Process Definition

Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric just

after the grey fabric production in the loom.

6.1.1 Equipment

1.Inspection table (Manual)

2.Fabric inspection machine (Automatic)

6.1.2 Key Accessories

Nipper, Pointer, Cutter, Comb etc

6.1.3 Safety measures

1. Smoking inside the inspection area is strictly prohibited.

2. Fire extinguishers are placed in the inspection area and all are trained

to use it.

3. No fabric stack is placed in front of electric panels.

6.1.4 Operation staff

Cloth doffer, cloth mender, inspector

6.1.5 Machine set up

Machine set up

Parameter range

1) Roller speed 2200 m/hr

2) Light D65

3) Length measuring meter Yds


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6.2 Inspection System

Here grey fabrics are inspected according to “four-point System”.

It is widely used in Textiles. It is Simple & easy to understand. Inspection is done

about 10% of the product in The Shipment. This system has been approved by

AAMA (American Apparel Manufacturing Association).

The four points system classifies defects as follows: -

Size of defects Penalty

3" or less 1 point

Over 3"not over 6" 2 points

Over 6" but not over 9" 3 points

Over 9" 4 points

A maximum 4 points is charged for one linear yard.

Points per 100 sq. yards = 𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑝𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡 ×36῎ ×100

𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ𝑒𝑠 ×𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ𝑒𝑠

Less than 40 points per 100sq. yds. are acceptable level.

6.2.1 Fabric Grading:

Penalty point Fabric Grade

Up to 25 A

26-35 B

>35 Rejected


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6.2.2 Grey fabric Faults

In the inspection table the operator finds out faults in the fabric and analyses their

intensity by visual inspection. Some of the common weaving faults are:

6.2.3 Fabric Faults Produced During Weaving Production

Warp Way Defect:-

1) Warp stitching:- Occurred due to want of interlacement between warp &

weft yarn which happens.

If the warp threads of one shade goes to another.

Faulty Dobby or Jacquard mechanism.

Warp yarn if loose.

Length of the harness cord is not equal.

Warp is not properly sized.

2) Long float:- Causes due to

If the warp yarn does not take part on interlacement

Tappet is not properly tied.

Peg of dobby if displaced.

Jacquard harness or card cutting if defective.

Worm out Reed if used.

3) Wrong warp threads:- Due to Drafting & Lifting.


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4) Missing warp: - Causes due to:-

Wrong denting.

Broken warp yarn in the beam.

Out of order Warp Stop motion.

5) Double warp: - Warp way makes on the fabric due to:-

Wrong Reed count used.

Wrong denting in the reed.

6) Loose warp: - Causes due if

Loose warp exist on the beam in loop form.

Yarn tension in warping if not balanced.

Yarn crossed in the dropper.

Size pick up unequal.

7) Knot in the Warp yarn:- if there is any knots in warp yarns.

8) Selvedge effect: - Causes due to :-

If the body and selvedge warp yarn tension is unequal.

If the Reed space is greater but the width of the fabric is less.

Sharp temple ring spikes.

9) Weft cut at the selvedge:- due to

Absent of weft yarn in the selvedge.

Defective Ring temple.

If the temple not properly set.

10) Temple mark:- Mark on the selvedge of the fabric due to:-

Light fabric if course temple is used.

Temple yarn.

Weft way defect:-

1) Miss pick or broken pick:- Causes due to

Broken pick.

Yarn of pirn in finish.

If weft yarn breaks at the middle.


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Picking mechanism occurred by empty shuttle.

2) Broken design:- If the lifting mechanism is defective.

3) Thick & thin place which is called bar on the fabric.

4) Shuttle mark:-

Shuttle flies.

Shuttle box if not properly set.

5) Weft curls:- Causes due to

Shuttle box and selvedge distance is more.

Yarn to more twist.

If the yarn on the pirn is loose.

6) Tight pick:- If the yarns on the pirn is too tight.

7) Cracks:- Causes due to

Faulty take up & let off mechanism.

Worm Crank shaft bearing.

Defective beating up force.

8) Bow effect:- if the pirn is not properly set.

9) Finger mark:- Weavers negligence, oil man & m/c cleaner if not careful.

10) Rest in the fabric:- If the yarn remains within from matters for long.

11) Rough surface fabric:- Causes due to

Count variation

If the proper tension is not utilized.eg:- Honey comb, Heike back

design.

12) Dirty cloth:- Due to un mindfulness of the operative.

13) Stop Mark: Due to shut down of machine and reed.

6.3 Storage

The grey fabrics thus inspected are piled separately according to lot and sort/quality

or construction and to store; store upon receiving the production sheet physically

checks and receives the fabric.


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CHAPTER 7

PRE-TREATMENT


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7.1 Process Flow chart of Pre-Treatment Department

In preparatory department Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching are done by

continuous process through L-box and R-box machine. Here in L-box the scouring

& bleaching reaction box are working through Pad steam method , other R-box

scouring process going through water steam method.

1. L- box machine (continuous process)

2. R- box machine (continuous process)

3. Mercerizing machine (New)

4. Mercerizing machine (old)

Singeing

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Mercerization


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7.2 Process flow chart of L- box machine

Singeing

• osthoff singe-I

• 2-burner running out of 4

• origin: Germany

Desizing(2)

• Room temp.

• Enzymatic/Caustic

Batching

• NaOH=10-12 hr

• Enzymatic= 8-10 hr

Hot water bath (open)

Injector

MC8

• Temp: 80-850c

Horizontal wash box(3)

• Temp: 900c

S. Chemical box (closed)

• Room temp

Scouring bath(open)

• Room temp

Reaction box

• Pad steam

• Time:50-55 min

• Temp: 90-100

MC8

• 80-850c

• Vertical wash box


• Temp: 900c

Horizontal wash box(cold)

• Room temp

Bleaching bath (open)

• Room temp

Reaction box

• pad steam

• Time: 40-45 min

• Temp: 90-1000c


• Temp: 900c

Cylinder (dryer)

• 1000c(34)

• Cold(3)

Rolling

• For nex process


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7.3 Singeing

The protruding fibres on the surface of a fabric manufactured with spun yarns may

be desirable in that they impart a little softness to the fabric, but nonetheless they are

seen as a nuisance. These protruding fibres

1. Create a fuzz which might obscure sharpness of a print or a coloured strip on the

garment

2. Can attract soil

3. May aggravate pilling

Many cotton materials are valued for their smooth appearance e.g. lustrous sateen

and satin weaves. Hence, in general, it is desirable to remove these surface fibres.

One of the most common methods to do this is just burn off these fibres! This is

known as Singeing. Although, now a day it is also done using enzymes for cellulosic

fibre fabrics.

7.3.1 Objective

To burn off the protruding fibers from a yarn or fabric.

ADVANTAGES -

1) Improved end use and wearing properties.

2) Clean Surface.

3) Reduced fogginess.

4) Reduced pilling.

5) Reduced Soiling.

Singeing usually involves passing/exposing one or both sides of a fabric over a gas

flame to burn off the protruding fibers.


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The temperature of the flame is quite high, hence the fabric is passed over the flame

at a high speed such that loose protruding fibres are burnt off but the fabric itself

remains undamaged.

Given below is the image of a typical gas burner used for singing of textile materials.


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A gas burner used for singing of textile materials

In the sequence of two figures below, one can see the appearance of fabrics before

and after singeing. The clean fabric surface after singeing is clearly noticeable.

Appearance of fabric after singeing

Since the loose fibres are present on both the surfaces of fabrics, one needs to expose

both the surfaces to the action of flame. In the schematic below, one can see the

arrangement of burners.


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7.4 Desizing

Desizing is the process of removal of size material applied on warp threads of a

fabric to facilitate the process of weaving. Size forms a stiff, hard and smooth coating

on warp yarns to enable them to withstand the cyclic tensions during weaving and

reduce breakage.

7.4.1 Objects of Desizing

1. To remove the starch material from the fabric.

2. To increase the absorbency power of the fabric.

3. To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dry chemicals.

4. To make the fabric suitable for the next process.

5. To increase the luster of the fabric increase of dyeing and printing.

7.4.2 Methods of desizing:

Enzymatic desizing.

Oxidative desizing.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/theory-of-dyeing-stagesteps-of-dyeing.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/pigment-printing-process.html


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Acid steeping.

Rot steeping (use of bacteria).

Desizing with hot caustic soda treatment.

Hot washing with detergents.

7.4.3 Caustic Desizing Recipe:

Padding Temp: Room

Temp

Batching Time: 8 hrs

PH: 10-11

Chemical Amount

NaOH-99% 25 g/L

GW-205 P 1 h/L

Sodium persulfate (97%) 2 g/L

Soda Ash 10 g/L

Hostapal DTC 3 g/L

Trisodium phosphate 1 g/L

7.4.4 Enzymatic Desizing Recipe:

Temp: Room temp.

Batching time: min 8 hrs

PH: 5-6

Ingredients Amount

Rucolase HCH 8 g/L

Hostapal DTC 3 g/L

Denimax BT 5 g/L

Acetic Acid 0.5 g/L


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7.5 Batching

After desizing the fabric is packed by poly bag. Then it goes for rotation for 8 to 12

hours. In this time chemical/enzyme react with starch and decomposed. Finally

Sizing material became water soluble as a glucose.

Fig: Batching period

7.6 Chemical mixing unit

Beside desizing unit there are two chemical tank one of them is called reserve tank

where chemical is mixed & circulated, another is storage tank whereagitated

chemicals are stored for using in bath. From this chemical entered in bath asfor even

immersion required.

Fig: Mixing tank


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7.7 Scouring

The process to remove the fats, oil, and waxy substance and added other

impurities by certain percent of alkali and which increases the absorbency

power of the textile goods is called scouring.

7.7.1 Objective

a) To remove the natural as well as added impurities as completely as possible.

b) To provide a clean material by adding alkali.

c) To leave the material to a highly absorptive condition without undergoing

any physical & chemical damage.

a) To make fabric suitable for next process.

7.7.2 The main changes scouring during scouring

a) Saponifiable oils & fatty acid are converted in to soap &peptic acid.

b) Pectin & pectoses are converted into soluble salt &peptic acid.

c) Proteins are degraded into simple soluble amino acid.

d) Mineral matters are dissolved. e) Dirt is removed.

f) Sizing materials are broken down into soluble product.

7.7.3 Main chemicals of scouring

The following chemicals are used in scouring

a) Alkali

b) Wetting agent

c) Detergent

d) Sequestering agent or chelating agent

e) Solvent


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7.7.4 Recipe for scouring that are used in south china Ltd. (L-box)

Temp: >900c

Pick up: 80%

PH: 10-11

Chemicals Amount

NaOH 99% 80 g/L

Soda Ash 2.5 g/L

Rucowet CMR 5 g/L

Trisodium phosphate 1 g/L

GW-205P 1 g/L

7.7.5 Pick up%

The total amount of chemicals which are absorbed by fabrics.

It is the ratio weight (wet fabric to dry fabric) to dry fabric and expressed in

percentage.

Formula

Pick up% = 𝑊𝑒𝑡 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐−𝐷𝑟𝑦 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐

𝐷𝑟𝑦 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐× 100

7.7.6 L-Box Parts:

Reaction Box

Here fabric is passing for proper reaction with scouring chemical like NaOH at 1000c

temperature for 50-55 min. This reaction box is called L-box for this shape and

working through pad steam method.


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Injector

The main function of injector is to force hot water at 900c to the desized fabric. And

remove sizing material. Also the rest sizing material would be broken by hot water.

Fig: Injector


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MC8/vertical wash box:

The main purpose of MC8 is removing the residual material through hot water.

Fig: Vertical wash box


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Horizontal wash box:

Ultimately the function of MC8 and horizontal are same. They are named different

because of their shape.


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Fig: Horizontal wash box

7.8 Bleaching

Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural coloring matter

from the substrate. The source of natural color is organic compounds with

conjugated double bonds , by doing chemical bleaching the discoloration takes place

by the breaking the chromophore , most likely destroying the one or more double

bonds with in this conjugated system. The material appears whiter after the

bleaching.

7.8.1 Bleaching objectives

a) Removal of coloured impurities.

b) Removal of the seed coats.

c) Minimum tendering of fibre.

d) Technically reliable & simple mode of operation.

e) Low chemical & energy consumption.

f) Increasing the degree of whiteness.


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7.8.2 Type of Bleaching Agents

a) Oxidative Bleaching Agents

b) Reductive Bleaching Agents

c) Enzymatic Bleaching Agents

7.8.3 Bleaching process in reaction box

The fabric taking bleaching chemical from bleaching bath than enter into the reaction

box. In reaction box containing steam at 1000c temperature. Fabric needed 50 min

for bleaching reaction in L-box. H2O2 start reaction with grey fabric coloring

materials with proper pH and temperature.

7.8.4 Recipe of bleaching

Pick up: 80%

Temp: 900c

PH: 10.25-11

Chemicals Amount

H2O2 4 g/L

Clarite MAX 1 g/L

GW-205P 3.75 g/L

NaOH 1 g/L


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7.8.5 Machine Parts:

Hot Cylinder:

It is used for drying purposes of wet fabric. The drying temperature were maintained

at 1000c.

Cold cylinder

Cold cylinder used for making the hot fabric into cold before rolling of the final

fabric.

7.8.6 Titration process for scouring:

Instruments:

Burette, Pipette, Beaker etc

Formula:

NaOH (g/l) = 𝑁.𝐻2𝑆𝑂4×𝑣.𝐻2𝑆𝑂4×40

𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝑁𝑎𝑂𝐻 𝑠𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑡𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑛

Procedure:

i. 1ml mixer solution or chemical solution is taken from scouring bath.

ii. 2-3 drops phenolphthalein indicator is taken.

iii. For titration 0.5 N H2SO4 is used.

iv. The number of drops of 0.5 N H2SO4 is used to calculate the amount of

NaOH present in the scouring bath.


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7.8.7 Titration process for Bleaching:

Reagent:

i. 100 cc water

ii. H2SO4 (20%)

iii. 0.1 N KMnO4

Formula:

H2O2 (g/l) = 𝑁.𝐾𝑀𝑛𝑂4×𝑉.𝐾𝑀𝑛𝑂4×17

𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑚𝑒 𝑜𝑓 𝐻2𝑂2 𝑠𝑜𝑙𝑢𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛 𝑡𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑛

Procedure:

i. 1ml mixer solution or chemical solution is taken.

ii. Adding H2SO4 (20%)

iii. Taking 0.1 N K2MnO4 in a burette

iv. The number of drops of 0.1N KMnO4 is used to calculate the readings until

the solution turns in to light pink color.

7.8.8 Bleaching Fabric Test:

Column Test:

i. Full width of fabric is immersed on water for 30 min.

ii. If the fabric absorbed water within 8-9 cm than the bleaching in done but if

the fabric absorbed more >8-9 cm than bleaching is improper.


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Fig: capillary test

Capillary Test:

i. Bleached fabric is immersed into water below 3 cm for 5 min.

ii. If it was absorbed water within 40 mm than bleaching is properly done

otherwise is improper.

7.9 Mercerization

7.9.1 Mercerizing:

Mercerization is a process for increasing absorbency, strength, and lusture of the

fabric by physio-chemical treatment. And this chemical treatment is occurred in two

IMP-1 and IMP-2 bath by passing the fabric into a airing zone.John Mercer was the

first chemist in the world who found this phenomenon in 1844.Therefore, the process

was called Mercerizing.

7.9.2 Mercerization is carried out for the following purpose.

1. Improving lustre (silky look, in tension mercerization only).

2. Improving tensile strength.

3. Improved dimensional stability.

4. Increasing uniformity of dyeing & improving color yield (savings in

dyestuff).

5. Improving Elasticity or Stretch material (in slack mercerization only).


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Mercerization is a process of impregnating the textile material with a concentrated

solution of cold NaOH, keeping it in contact with this cold solution for a given time

with or without tension, and subsequently rinsing it.

Fig: Mercerization effect

7.9.3 Some Machine & Process parameter

M/c specification

M/c name: Mercerize m/c

Brand: Goller

Origin: Germany

Speed: 60 m/min

Capacity: 1 lac m/day

Expander roller: Remove dirtiness and keep the


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7.9.4 Recipe:

180 g/LNaOH• For Brushing

220 g/LNaOH• For Dyeing


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7.9.5 Flow chart of mercerization:

Bleached Fabric

Brush roller

J-Trey

NaOH bath

Air can

NaOH bath

Air can

Washing bath(cold)

Chain/Clip

Hot wash(open)

Horizontal wash box(900c)(7)

Hot cylinder(30)

Cold cylinder(6)

Rolling


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7.9.6 Mercerizing Machine parts:

Air can:

After absorbing NaOH the fabric passing through several air can for oxidation.

Fabric is passed over the Airing zone after chemical padding. Herethere is no

application of temperature & pressure. It involves 4 rollers which are drivenby

motor. This application is only for drying in contact of air which facilitates more

chemical consumption from next bath.

Chain System:

From Impregnation fabric pass over the free roller & comes in to chain for gripping.

Here the fabric is stretched for control width. If crease mark is found from previous

process, that can also be controlled by stretching. Here there is an additional option

of showering by hot water. Which ensure proper cleaning & removal of residual

caustic.


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Fig: Mercerizing chain (clip)

Wash Box:

From chain by squeezing fabric comes directly to washing chamber. Here fabric

passed over some driven roller to make proper hot wash. There are seven hot wash

chambers that are linked with one another & horizontally inclined. Here temperature

is maintained is around 90'C.

Neutralizing chamber

After washing fabric goes through neutralizing chamber.Caustic make the fabric

highly alkaline so that is neutralized by the addition of aceticacid. For controlling ph

from control panel a command is given such as 7. Then the fabricwill takes this

amount of acetic acid which makes the fabric neutral by maintaining pH 7.

Cylinder Dryer

After washing & neutralizing for drying process 2 stage vertical cylinder dryer is

used. It is heated by steam. For course fabric the cylinder dryer temperature is around

1000c .


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7.9.7 Mercerization Test

Barium Activity Number Test:

Barium activities test is done to know about the increasing % of absorbency of fabric

& depth of luster.By barium activity we can also see that, after mercerizing

remaining wax oil and other impurities are removed &strength is increased.

The Barium Activity Number is given as:

BAN = (B-M) / (B-C)*100

Where B = Volume of HCl (ml) required for blank titration

M = Volume of HCl (ml) required with mercerized cotton

C= Volume of HCl (ml) required with un-mercerized cotton

For completely mercerized cotton the value of BAN is around 155 and for semi

mercerized cotton it varies in between 115 and 130.


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CHAPTER 8

DYEING


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8.1 Dyeing

Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material through a dye (colour).

Dyes are obtained from flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and

plants as well as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes.

The other class of dyes is known as synthetic dyes. These are based on a particular

type of chemical composition. Some of these dyes are- Acid ( Anionic) dyes, Basic

( Cationic) dyes, Neutral- Premetalized dyes, sulfur dyes, vat dyes, reactive dyes,

pigment dyes etc.

8.2 Woven dyeing

Woven fabric is produced with interlacement of warp and weft yarn. The importance

of woven fabrics increases constantly. Starting from traditional uses mainly in

clothing applications, woven fabrics today are key materials for structural,

electronic, telecommunications, medical, aerospace and other technical application

fields. Woven fabric dyeing process is different from knit fabric dyeing process.

CPB/Thermosol/Jigger dyeing machine is used in woven dyeing.

8.3 Dyeing types

There are four types of dyeing,

1. Fiber Dyeing

2. Yarn Dyeing

3. Fabric Dyeing

4. Garment Dyeing

Dyes/pigment used in woven dyeing (south china Ltd.)

i. Reactive dyes

ii. Vat dyes

iii. Disperse dyes

http://www.teonline.com/textile-chemicals/pigments-dye.html


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iv. Pigment

Here we discussed about woven fabric dyeing with different dyeing method by

reactive, vat, disperse, pigment dyes.

In south china there are three types of process are used like as

i. Cold pad batch (CPB)

ii. Thermosol process

iii. Jigger

8.4 Cold pad batch

It is the simple & easiest way of woven fabric dyeing. In this process only dark shade

can be produced successfully & economically. But limitation is medium or light

shade is difficult to match. It takes a long time because after dyeing it required

batching for 8 to 12 hours.


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8.4.1 Process flow of cold pad batch:

J-Trey

cooling room(17-200c)

Dye bath

Batching(10-12hr)

Open bath

Wash box -4(900c)

Soap wash-2(900c)

PH control

Cold wash

Cylinder Drying

Cold cylinder

Rolling


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8.4.2 Recipe for Reactive dyeing:

Dyes/ Chemical Amount

Novacron Blue TSGC 13.30 g/L

Levafix Amber CAN 6.60 g/L

Novacron Red C2Bl 2.80 g/L

Caustic soda (380Be) 6.10 g/L

Soda 20 g/L

Urea 50 g/L

FFC 1 g/L

Dyes: Chemical 4:1

Fabric construction 128×60B

Properties

i. Flexible dyeing of short slots.

ii. Even coloration.

iii. Maximum dyestuff yield.

iv. Fast slot &color change.

v. Minimum rest liquor.

vi. Reproducibility of shade.

vii. Speed: - 60 yads/min


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8.4.3 Process Description with machine Steps

Fabric inlet

After mercerizing batcher is feed into the inlet of CPB machine. Where the fabric

is passed over some free roller & guider. Here there is a compensator to control

fabric open width entry & controlling fabric speed.

Mixing Tank:

Here dyes and chemical are mixed separately that was going to the dye bath for

fabric dyeing with required condition.

Dye bath:

Here chemical comes from storage tank to maintain even range on padding tank.

Here three bowl padding is occurred. Padding pressure is predetermined according

to pick up required & fabric speed. Dyes and chemical are mixed here at 4:1 ranges.


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Batching

After padding fabric is directly rolled in to batcher& packed with poly bag. Then it

goes for rotation of 8 – 12 hours for color fixing.

Hot Wash:

After batching the fabric need to proper wash. That’s why it was wash by wash

box at 900c temperature for four times.

Soap wash:

After hot the next process is soap wash. The of soap is GW-420P.

PH control:

After washing neutralizing is done to control pH-7 of fabric. It is done by acetic

acid. For reactive only one neutralizing chamber is used after washing. Here

oxidation is not required.

Cylinder Drying:

Finally, the wet fabric need to drying for rolling. Cylinder temperature is 1000c.

Then rolling is done.


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8.4.4 Typical Reactive dyes:

SL Color Name

1. Novacron Red -2G

2. Novacron Yellow C-5G

3. Colvazol Brill. Blue KN-RXN

4. Dychufix Black B H/C

5. Novacron DEEP Orange S-4R

6. Novacron Red C-2BL

7. LEVAFIX RED CA-N

8. BEZATIVE VIOLET V-5R

9. DYCHUFIX TURQUISE BLUE G

H/C

10. Novacron DEEP CHERRY S-D

8.5 Thermosol Process

Thermosol dyeing machine helps to improve production capacity. It does not

required rotation after padding. It must feed on pad steam for fixation just after

dyeing which gives finished product.

By thermosol process, there are sever types of dyeing are possible-

i. Vat dyeing

ii. Disperse dyeing (pad steam)

iii. Pigment dyeing

iv. Tc dyeing

It is a continuous process for dyeing a process. Production is higher than any other

dyeing process. So it is popular dyeing process in woven factory.


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8.5.1 Process Flow Chart:

Bleache/Brush Fabric

Dye bath

IR

Curing Chamber

Cooling can

Chemical bath

Pad Steam

Wash(open bath)

Oxidation-2(H2O2

Airing

Soap wash(800c)

Cold wash

PH control

Cold wash

Cylinder Drying

Rolling


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8.5.2 Vat dyeing Chemical Recipe:

For Light shade

Chemical Amount for 400L

NaCl 20 kg

NaOH 11.5 kg

Hydrose 21.5 kg

For medium shade


NaCl 20 kg

NaOH 14 kg

Hydrose 26.4 kg

For Dark shade


NaCl 20 kg

NaOH 20 kg

Hydrose 35 kg


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8.5.3 T/C Fabric Discharge Recipe:

Chemical name Amount

Caustic soda 28 g/L

Hydrose 50 g/L

Oxalic acid 12 g/L

Soda ash 10 g/L

Tri sodium phosphate 20 g/L

GW-425p 20 g/L

8.5.4 Typical Vat dyes:

SL Dyes

1. KEDANTHREN OLIVET

2. MIKETHREN BROWN GS

3. MIKETHREN BROWN M S/F

4. BEZATHREN OLIVE GREEN MW PS

5. INDANTREN VIOLET B COLLOISOL

6. TECHTREN OLIVE 5GF

7. BEZACTIVE BROWN BGR

8. TECHTREN YELLOW

9. TECHTREN RED

10. KEDANTHREN BROWN


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8.5.5 Operational procedure:

Fabric inlet section

After mercerizing batcher is feed into the inlet of thermosol machine.Where the

fabric is passed over some free roller, parpet roller & platter. Here there is a

compensator to control fabric open width entry & controlling fabric speed.

Chemical Mixing tank

In thermosol machine only dye stuff & wetting agent & migrating agent is used.

Dyes are dissolved separately from wetting & migrating agent then all are forced to

chemical storage tank as required & agitated for proper mixing.

Fig : Chemical mixing tank

Dye bath:

Here chemical comes from storage tank to maintain even range on padding tank.

Here three bowl padding is occurred. During padding the most common problem of

dyeing "listing problem” can be solved by adjusting pressure on left, right & middle

of padder. The layer of dyes keeps up to 50 liter& automatically dyes is come to dye

bath. Padder pressure are generally, 1.6, 2.5, 1.6.

Padder Brand Nanme: Kuster

Origin: Germany

Control Panel


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From control panel all types of instruction can be provide to the machinery. This

machine has a full manual control panel. The operator controls every process by

control switch.

Fig: Control Panel

Infrared Radiation:

After airing zone fabric pass over some free roller then enter in IR dryer. It is called

pre dryer. Here temperature is around 650-750'C.it can differ based on fabric speed

& type of fabric is processing. In thermosol there are two IR unit & each contain two

heating zone(flamer). Here fabric is dried up to 40%.

Hot air flow drying unit:

Fabric comes to this unit after predrying. Here there are three unit of heating. Each

contains two heater (gas type) & two blower. Temperature is taken is around 120-

130'C. If this flamer & blower is not work properly it will create listing problem.

Here there are few additional options like humidity control unit & cleaning unit.

When pad dry cure is performed in thermosol then humidity must be controlled. If

it can control, no need to use urea. Fabric contains different types of dust so when

hot water is blown it can make problem in heater & blower. So there is a screen unit


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so that dust can not goes in blower or heater. Smaller particles can be taken out

trough duct & release to environment. Here 30-35 meter fabric is remain.

Fig: curing chamber

Curing chamber

After drying the fabric is passed through curing chamber. Here the fabric is heated

from 150170'C in case of reactive & in case of disperse 180-2100c. In this chamber

there are four layer of roller. And in this roller 80-85 meter fabric is remain for proper

heating & fixing the color of fabric.

Cooling Can:

After hot air flow drying fabric require a cooling. So fabric is passed over the cooling

roller. It is a stainless steel roller through which cold water is passed. There are two

cooling roller.


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J-Box

It is a space for keeping fabric. When the batch is completed, it is needed to change

& another empty batch roller is to be settled. Due to continuous dyeing process it is

not possible to stop the m/c. So during changing batch roller the fabric is stored in

J-BOX. And when new empty batch roller is settled, then the fabric is started to

batching.

Fig: J-Box

Chemical Bath:

Now fabric enter into the chemical bath. In chemical bath containing Hydrose,

NaOH, Na2CO3, Nacl, GW425. After taking chemical fabric enter into steam

chamber.

Steam chamber:

Here reducing of vat dye occurred at 1000c temperature and present of reducing

chemical hydrose and steam are passing through the chamber.

Re- Oxidation:

At the present of H2O2 Re oxidation occurred of vat dye due to fixation of vat dye

into the fabric permanently.

Testing required during Thermosol operation


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▪ Pick up testing

▪ Shade listing identification.

▪ Shade listing identification (Shade variation)

After each 1000 meter shade is tested in light box. Here listing problem is visualized

& can be solved by increasing or decreasing left, centre or right padder pressure.

Suppose in left color is lighter then lower the pressure of left side.

Fig: Shade listing identification.

8.6 Exhaust Process

Dyeing (Exhaust) is a chemical process by which textile substrates are immersed in liquor containing dyestuffs & chemicals by which the dyestuffs are transferred to textile substrates in a proper manner.

8.6.1 Objective

▪ A dye trough design ensuring minimum possible liquor ratio

▪ Fabric rope monitoring control system for precise calculation and control of

the fabric speed and tension.

▪ Uniform dyeing conditions in the dye trough, independent of the batch size.

▪ Water meter for controlled rinsing


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▪ Dosing of dyes and chemicals dependent on the fabric length passing

through the dye bath

The exhaust process is done in jigger dyeing m/c which can be called

pressurized jigger m/c.

8.6.2 Jigger Dyeing: Jigg or jigger dyeing machine is one of the oldest dyeing machine used for cloth

dyeing operations. Jigger machine is suitable for dyeing of woven fabrics, up to

boiling temperature without any creasing . Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension

on the fabric and are more suitable for the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics.

Since the fabric is handled in open-width, a jig is very suitable for fabrics which

crease when dyed in rope form.

Fig: Jigger dyeing machine

Some wovens are conveniently dyed on jigger are ,

Taffettas

Plain wovens

Satins

Poplins

Ducks

Suiting and Shirting material.

Sheetings etc.

But have limited application on fabrics which are tension sensitive such as crepes,

flat crepes, knits , net fabrics and elastomeric warps etc.

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8.6.3 Dyeing Process by Jigger Dyeing Machine:

The dyeing process on jigger is regarded as a series of intermittent padding operation

followed by dwelling periods on the main roller , during which the dyeing action and

diffusion takes place. The factors controlling the rate of dye absorption are:

1. The amount of interstitial dye liquor retained in the interstices of the fabric

weave.

2. The exhaustion of the interstitial liquor in the dwell period between successive

immersions.

3. The degree of interchange of liquor during one immersion (interchange

factor).

In the dyeing on jigger machines the cloth revolves on two main rollers , The open-

width fabric passes from one roller through the dyebath at the bottom of the

machine and then onto a driven take-up roller on the other side. When all the fabric

has passed through the bath, the direction is reversed . Each passage is called an

end. Dyeing always involves an even number of ends. The dye bath has one or

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more guide rollers , around which the cloth travels , and during this immersion

achieves the desired contact with the dye liquor. During this passage the fabric

picks up adequate quantity of dye liquor , excess of which is drained out but still a

good quantity is held in the fabric . During rotation of rollers this dye penetrates

and diffuse into the fabric. The real dyeing takes place not in the dye liquor but

when the cloth is on the rollers, since only a very small length of fabric is in the

dyebath and major part is on the rollers . Therefore the speed of cloth during

immersion in dye liquor has a very little effect on percentage of shade produced.

Some critical problems related to the conventional jigger dyeing machines ( which

are minimized in the modern day machines) The major problems are side-to-centre

color variations, called listing, and lengthways color variations, called ending.

Other problems are:

Temperature control from side-to-side and end-to-end of the roll

Tension control from end-to-end

Constant speed control from end-to-end

Prevention of creases

Prevention of air

Limitations of Jigger Dyeing

1. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are more suitable

for the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics.

2. In textile preparation due to the swelling and dissolution of size, which makes

the fabric slippery and unstable in roll form.

3. The low liquor ratio makes washing-off difficult.

4. There is little mechanical action in a jig machine and it is less suitable where

vigorous scouring is required before dyeing.

5. Moiré effects or water marks may arise on some acetate and nylon fabrics

because of pressure flattening the structure of the rolled fabric.

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8.7 Typical Dyeing Faults:

▪ Color uneven

▪ Long stripe

▪ Color line

▪ Knots, slub

▪ White spot

▪ Color spot

▪ Sewing spot

▪ Yellow bar

▪ Crease mark

▪ Listing

8.8 Solution of dyeing fault

Different types of fault can arise during dyeing which can be solved by the

following process.

▪ Topping

▪ Stripping

8.8.1 Topping

In dyeing process firstly the color is matched in lab in it comes to production.During

production at first a sample is run. If it match then goes for production. But still few

problems arise after few meters due to uneven picking shade is varied from original

one. It becomes lighter or darker. Some times more reddish or greenish. This type

of problem is solved by tropping.If the shade is lighter then addition is done &

darker dilution can be done. But during tropping the ratio of dye & chemical is 1:4.


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A typical Recipe of topping

128x56/16x10 twill fabrics dyed in CPB. 15% light.

▪ Nova yellow NP:0.5 gm/lt

▪ Nova red CP: 0.5 gm/lt

▪ Soda Ash -15 gm/lt

▪ Caustic -5 gm/lt

▪ Albaflow pad (wetting)-2 gm/lt

8.8.2 Stripping

If the shade is widely varied from the original one then the fabric goes through

stripping. It is the process by which the color of dyed fabric is removed & makes it

white for redyeing. The fabric strength become lower for that additional hard finish

is required. Another problem is a stripe fabric can only dyed in dark shade, light

shade is not possible.


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CHAPTER 9

PRINTING


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9.1 Textile Printing

Textile printing involves the production of a predetermined coloured pattern on a

fabric, usually with a definite repeat. It can be described as a localised form of

dyeing, applying colorant to selected areas of the fabric to build up the design.

Textile Printing, like Textile dyeing, is a process for applying color to a substrate.

However, instead of coloring the whole substrate (cloth, carpet or yarn) as in dyeing,

print color is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired pattern. This involves

different techniques and different machinery with respect to dyeing, but the physical

and chemical processes that take place between the dye and the fiber are analogous

to dyeing.

Fig: Rotary screen Roller

9.2 Pigment Printing

Pigment printing has gained much importance today and for some fibers (e.g.

cellulose fibers) is by far the most commonly applied technique. Pigments can be

used on almost all types of textile substrates and, thanks to increased performance

of modern auxiliaries, it is now possible to obtain high-quality printing using this

technique.

Pigment printing pastes contain a thickening agent, a binder and, if necessary,

other auxiliaries such as fixing agents, plasticizers, defoamers, etc.

White spirit-based emulsions, used in the past as thickening systems, are used only

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occasionally today (mainly half-emulsion thickeners).

After applying the printing paste, the fabric is dried and then the pigment is

normally fixed with hot air (depending on the type of binder in the formulation,

fixation can also be achieved by storage at 20°C for a few days). The advantage of

pigment printing is that the process can be done without subsequent washing

(which, in turn, is needed for most of the other printing techniques).

9.2.1 Printing Paste Preparation

Dye Printing process traditionally starts with the preparation of the paste.

Compared to pigment printing, the composition of the pastes is more complex and

variable, being determined not by the dye used, but by the printing technique, the

substrate, the application and the fixation methods applied.

Apart from the dye, printing pastes contain a thickening agent and various other

auxiliaries, which can be classified according to their function as follows:

Oxidizing agents (e.g. m-nitrobenzenesulphonate, sodium chlorate, hydrogen

peroxide)

Reducing agents (e.g. sodium dithionite, formaldehyde sulphoxylates,

thiourea dioxide, tin(II) chloride)

Discharging agents for discharge printing (e.g. anthraquinone)

Substances with a hydrotropic effect, like urea

Dye solubilisers, which are polar organic solvents like glycerine, ethylen

glycol, butyl glycol, thiodiglycol, etc.

Resists for reactive resist printing (e.g. sulphonated alkanes)

Defoamers, (e.g. silicon compounds, organic and inorganic esters, aliphatic esters,

etc.).All the necessary ingredients are metered (dosed) and mixed together in a

mixing station. Since between 5 and 10 different printing pastes are usually

necessary to print a single pattern (in some cases up to 20 different pastes are

applied), in order to reduce losses, due to incorrect measurement, the preparation of

the pastes is done in automatic stations. In modern plants, with the help of special

devices, the exact amount of printing paste require is determined and prepared in

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continuous mode for each printing position, thus reducing leftovers at the end of the

run.

It is common practice in many printing houses to filter the printing pastes before

application, using for example a filter cloth. This operation is especially important

for thickeners to prevent free particles from blocking the openings of the screens.

9.2.2 Paste preparation:

Paste ingredients Amount (100L)

Urea 2%

Fixer 0.05%

De-foaming agent 0.02%

Thickener 4%

Binder 12% (1kg)


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9.3 Printing Process Flow:

9.4 Rotary Screen Printing:

Some people think rotary screen print is flat printing process because the

substrates are usually flat and decorated in a horizontal position. Rotary screen

printing is also related with piece decorating applications where individual sheets

of substrate are printed one by one, usually on semi and three-quarter-automatic

flatbed presses that require manual loading or unloading. So far throughput

continues to be limited because every sheet of substrate still must pause at each

printing station to receive the icon. The good news is that you don’t have to

sacrifice the remuneration of screen print to overcome the limits of flatbed

Design by computer

Hand strike off

Bulk production

Pigment printing

Curing

Stenter soft

Sanforizing

Rolling


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printing technology. For many applications requiring competent, high volume,

high quality printing and rotary screen print may be the best answer. In rotary

printing the web movements at a constant speed between the screen and a steel

impression roller immediately below the screen. As the web passes through the

rotary unit the screen spin at a rate that identically matches the speed of substrate

movement.

Fig: Rotary screen printing

The squeegee on a rotary press is in a fixed position with its edge making contact

with the inside surface of the screen accurately at the point where the screen,

substrate, and impression roller come together.

9.4.1 Characteristics of Rotary Print Screen:

1. It’s very easy to screen print, on the material

2. Not required to skilled labor for screen print.

3. Print screen help designer to develop the system

4. Not required to much time for screen print,

5. It’s not hazardous for screen print,

6. Relief printing option


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9.4.2 Machine Specification:

Attribute Name Value

Product Category Printing

Machine Category Vertical Screen Print Machine

Product Model Based on Manufacturer

Origin China

Capacity 18

Production Capacity 300 M/M

Squeezer Blade/ Rod

9.4.3 Printing Techniques by Rotary Screen Print :

Screen Print


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Therefore as the printing techniques using ink is squeeze by pressure from the

inside of the cylindrical mesh by way of a rubber squeegee, it exits through the

open mesh that was masked during the photo coverage. The printing techniques

using ink used in this process are quite opaque and rich colors are achievable. It

is important that the printing techniques using ink is fully dry before the paper

reaches the next print station and ensuring no show through or smudging of the

inks from the color underneath. It does have the benefit of being cheaper, due

chiefly to it being a continuous print process and rotary screen print is applicable

for t-shirt, shirt design, relief printing and t shirt designs. To make printing

colorful we need to buy Multicolor Screen Printing Machine.

9.5 Typical Pigment used:

SL Pigment

1. HELIZARIN GREEN-FFBT

2. SILIAN G-13 SERISE

3. IMPERON YELLOW

4. QUALIPERON RED

5. BEZAFLUOR VIOLET

6. IMPERON BLACK

7. QUALIPERON BLACK


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CHAPTER 10

FINISHING


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10.1 Textile Finishing

Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In

order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is

customary to subject the material to different type of physical and chemical

treatments. For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to

make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame

retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some

of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.

Broadly it can be classified into following classes,which are used individually or in

combination with each other. (other terms are also used such as wet finishing, dry

finishing, durable finishes and non durable finishes)

10.2 Finishing Types:

Finishing

Chemical

Soft HardWrinkle

FreeWater Proof Fire Proof

Mechanical

Brushing Calendaring Sanforizing

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10.3 Process Flow in Finishing Department:

10.4 Stenter Machine

A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the

stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions

and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also

shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric

widthwise and to recover the uniform width.

Dyed/Printed/Bleached fabric

Stenter

Sanforizing


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Fig: Stenter Machine

10.4.1 Functions of Stenter Machines:

1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.

2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.

3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.

4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.

5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.

6. Spirility controlled by the stenter.

7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.

8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process.

9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.


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10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.

10.4.2 Components of Stenter Machine:

1. Paders

2. Weft straightner (Mahlo)

3. Burners 10

4. Heat recovery

5. Attraction rollers

6. Circulating fans 10,8

7. Exhaust fans 2

8. Winder 2

9. Clips

10. Pins

11. I.R

12. Cooling drums 2

10.4.3 Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:

The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the

padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is

corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the

mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins

are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the

selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins

are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each

chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the

circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all

the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp

yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The

speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each

chamber.temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,

1. PC 210 c

2. Cotton 110-130 c

After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.


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10.4.4 Specification of a Stenter Machine:

Machine Atributes Value

Brand Name MONFONGS

Origin Germany

Setup Temp. 1700c

No. Of chamber 10

Function Chemical finish/ Pigment dyeing

Maximum fabris width 61/62 yads

M/C parts Hot Oil, Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over

feed roller, Suction fan, Chain

arrangement

Chain system pin

10.5 Sanforizing Machine:

The machine used for the sanforizing process is called "Sanforizing Machine".

Sanforizing Machine means a machine consisting of a large steam-heated

cylinder, an endless, thick, woolen felt blanket which is in close contact with the

cylinder for most of its perimeter, and an electrically heated shoe which presses

the cloth against the blanket while the latter is in a stretched condition as it curves

around feed-in roll.

10.5.1 Sanforizing Process

Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent

the normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage

finishing process. It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and also

for some other textiles made from natural and synthetic fibres. It is a method of

stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before

cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after

wash.


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Fig: Schematic diagram

10.5.2 Principle

Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when an elastic felt blanket

is passed around a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process

extended and the inner surface contracted. So the process is called controlled

compressive shrinkage process.

The process of sanforizing includes the stretching and manipulation of the

fabric before it is washed.

During the sanforization process, the fabric is fed into a sanforizing machine

where it is treated with water or steam to promote shrinkage, then pressed

against a heated rubber band to relax and re-contract the fibers.

The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to

shrinking. A full width sample is wash-tested according to the test method.

After the lengthwise and width wise shrinkage has been determined, the

compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly.

The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein

moistened with either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber

sleeve against another, heated, rotating cylinder. Thereby the sleeve briefly

gets compressed and laterally expanded, afterwards relaxing to its normal

thickness. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and

heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief compression and lateral

expansion, and relaxation. It thus gets shrunk.

The greater the pressure applied to the rubber sleeve, the bigger the shrinking

afterwards. The process may be repeated.


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Schematic Process

The process of Sanforizing can be described by the following schematic below:

Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is

moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote

shrink ability within the fabric.

Fabric is moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture

content of approximately 15%.

Above step allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.

When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), we obtain the required

width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part

of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure).

In the close-up of above figure, we see the endless rubber belt (R). By

squeezing rubber belt (R) between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder

(RB), we obtain an elastically stretching of the rubber belt surface.

The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This

point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.

Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone.


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When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface

returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action

is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At

this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.

After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D).

Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture

from the fabric.

After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the

fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test

must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry

the Sanforized label.

All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated to follow the required

test method and meet the standards set forth by The Sanforized Company.

10.6 Sueding/Brushing Finishing Process:

Sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or

both sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This operation is often carried out

before the raising process to reduce the friction between the fibres making up the

cloth and consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end.

The sueding process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the

appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a soft and smooth

sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain surface.

The sueding machine is made up of some rotating rollers coated with abrasive

paper, which emerise the cloth and produce a more or less marked effect

depending upon the pressure exerted on the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The

abrasive paper used can vary according to the desired sueding degree and must be

replaced after a given number of operating hours, or when it does not properly

carry out suitably the sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use also

metal rollers with the surface coated with uneven and rough grains or pumice

rollers performing an excellent sueding action on both dry or wet fabrics. For a

very superficial sueding, the natural abrasive power of pumice can be applied with

successful results.

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Sueding Finishing Process:

Sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or

both sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This operation is often carried out

before the raising process to reduce the friction between the fibres making up the

cloth and consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end.

The sueding process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the

appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a soft and smooth

sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain surface.

The sueding machine is made up of some rotating rollers coated with abrasive paper,

which emerise the cloth and produce a more or less marked effect depending upon

the pressure exerted on the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The abrasive paper used

can vary according to the desired sueding degree and must be replaced after a given

number of operating hours, or when it does not properly carry out suitably the

sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use also metal rollers with the

surface coated with uneven and rough grains or pumice rollers performing an

excellent sueding action on both dry or wet fabrics. For a very superficial sueding,

the natural abrasive power of pumice can be applied with successful results.

Gray fabrics as well as dyed ones can be subjected to the sueding process; the cloth

to be emerised must be completely free from any finishing resin or adhesive

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substance remaining on the fabric surface after desizing. The sueding process

reduces mechanic and dynamometric resistance of the fabric, thus making it more

subject to tearing and seaming.

The fabric can run at different speeds inside the sueding unit; a smooth pressure is

kept thanks to two balancing arms assembled at the entry and at the exit of the unit.

The pieces of cloth must be sewn with abrasion-resistant material such as polyester

or nylon. The gears must be suitably cleaned with compressed air jets since the

presence of pile residues could clog the ball bearings or drop again on the fabric

surface thus creating some problems with dyeing machines filters.

The sueding process, which can affect the fabric with a very wide range of effects,

can give some problem when applied to knitted tubular goods but it.s widely used

on woven fabrics with different weights and weaves (its application ranges from

coarse jeans cloth to light and delicate silk or microfibre, coated fabrics and

imitation leather).

The sueding unit is equipped with 6 rollers performing the sueding action on the

face of the fabric and 1 roller performing its action of the back of the fabric; an

advantage of this system is the possibility to use sueding cloths with different

grains on each single roller. Thanks to three dandy rollers, the sueding action can

be automatically adjusted during the fabric processing thus allowing the sueding

process to be carried out also on knitted goods.


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CHAPTER 11

QUALITY ASSURANCE


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11.1 Quality

Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate

quality standard can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate

standard of quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what

the potential customer for a new product really wants, through the processes of

design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale.

There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based

such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the

garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.

11.2 Assurance:

The act of giving confidence, the state of being certain or the act of making certain.

11.3 Quality Assurance:

The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that

quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled.

11.4 Control:

An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses; the act of guiding a process

in which variability is attributable to a constant system of chance causes.

11.5 Quality Control:

The observation techniques and activities used to fulfill requirements for quality.

11.6 Objectives:

The main objectives of inspection is the-

1. Detection of Defects

2. Correcting of defect or defective garments as early as possible in the

manufacturing process so that time and money are not wasted later.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/04/introduction-of-textile-testing-and_4641.html


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11.7 Fabric Inspection Method:

Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality view point.

There are various fabric inspection system such as-

4- point system

10- point system

2.5- point system etc.

4-Point System:

The 4- point system is widely used for fabric inspection, in the united states it is

known as AAMA point grading system (AAMA- American Apparel manufacturers

association).

Procedure of Four Point System:

1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries.

2. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind

the inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table.


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3. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric

over the inspection table.

4. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form.

5. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric

(meter/yard).

Fig: Inspection machine

11.8 Fabric defects point values based on the following:

Length of defect in Fabric Points allotted

Up to 3 inch 1

Over 3 inch up to 6 inch 2

Over 6 inch up to 9 inch 3

Over 9 inch 4

Holes and Opening

1 or less 2

Over 1 inch 4


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Calculations and Result:

Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated.

If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are considered

“first” quality and as an Acceptance criteria.

If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are considered

“second”.

Example:

A fabric roll 130 yard long and 45 inch wide contains the following defects:-

6 defects up to 3 inch- ...................................6 X 1 = 6 points

5 defects over 3 inch but less 6 inch- ............. 5 X 2 = 10 points

2 defects over 6 inch but less 9 inch- ..............3 X 2 = 6 points

1 defects over 9 inch- ....................................1 X 4 = 4 points

1 hole over 1 inch dimensions- .......................1 X 4 = 4 points

………………………………………………………………………………………

Total defect points................................................= 30 points

Therefore,

Points per 100 yard square =

Total points scored in roll X 36 inch

……………………………………………………………… X 100

Fabric width/inches X Total length yard inspected

30 X 36

= ……………………… X 100

130 X 45

= 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yard square.)

So, the roll is Accepted.


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Check sheet or Inspection Format:

To record or to collects defects during inspection you must use a simple check sheet.

A check sheet includes general details, details of fabric lot, fabric defects according

their sizes, summary of fabric defects, quantity inspected and total penalty points

and result of the fabric lot after inspection. Use tally marking for recording of

number of defects. A sample 4-point system fabric inspection format has been

attached at the bottom.


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11.9 Types of defects found in fabric:

Fabric checker should know common defects found in fabrics and he must recognize

defects on the fabric at the time of fabric inspection. Here bellow the faults.

Fabric Defects Source of Defects

Slubs, Slubby Weft,

Colored flecks, Knots,

Broken filaments

Due to flaws in yarns or

filaments.

Missing end, Oily or Soiled ends,

Floats, Weft Crack, Weft Bar,

Oily Weft, Box Marks, Slough Off,

Broken ends woven in bunch,

Stitches, Snarls, Gout, Broken

Pattern, Oily and strains,

Holes,Cuts, Local distortion,

Selvedge defect, Lashing –in,

Untrimmed loose threads, Double

ends, Reed mark

These defects occur during

weaving process. Some defects

are related to loom, cleanliness

of the loom and work areas,

improper handling of loom and

raw materials.

Bleaching spots, Water mark,

Dyestuff Stain,White spots,

Patchy or streaky uneven dyeing,

Dye Bar, Shading & listing printing,

Misprint or absence of prints,

Defects caused by hanging thread,

Doctors line, Blurred or Dark patch,

Bowing piling and raising defects,

Piling and milling, Mill rigs, Uneven

millingBroken embroidery design


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CHAPTER 12

CENTRAL LABORATORY


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12.1 Lab dip / Sample Dyeing:

A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It is a process by

which buyer’s supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the

laboratory with or without help of spectrophotometer. Lab dip plays an important

role in shade matching & this is an important task before bulk production. In

previous article of this author we have to learn on flow chart on dyeing lab.

12.2 Light Source for matching Lab Dip:

i. D65

ii. TL-84

iii. TL-83

iv. UV light

12.3 Object of Lab Dip:

1. To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.

2. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer.

3. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.

4. Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D)

12.4 There are four types of Lab Dip are making in south china:

i. CPB

ii. VAT

iii. Pigment

iv. Disperse

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/05/spectrophotometer-instrument-of.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/10/process-flow-chartsequence-of-dyeing-lab.html


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12.5 CPB process Sequences:

Swatch receive

Recipe Formulation

Dyes and chemical mixing

Padding

Batching

Cold wash

Hot wash

cold wash

Hydro-extractor

Drying

Finishing chemical apply

Padding

Drying

Shade matching


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Recipe Formulation:

After receiving swatch from buyer, they formulate recipe from data-color.

Depends on data-color recipe at first produced lab dip.

Fig: Spectrophotometer

Recipe for reactive dyeing:

Dyes/chemical Amount

Dyes 5 gm/100ml

Na2CO3 8/100ml

NaOH 0.25/100ml

Urea 2.5 gm/100ml

Wetting agent 2gm/100ml

Padding:

For impregnation of dyes into fabric need to padded properly in padding mangle

for two times.


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Fig: Padding mangle

Batching:

For CPB dyeing it is necessary to batch for 45-55 min at temperature 550 ± 2 by

rapping into a roller.

Than one cold wash and three times hot wash and finally one-time hot wash.

After washing is completing need to extraction of water by hydro extractor.

Drying is going on at temperature 150-1600c. Then Finishing chemical applied

and final drying completed.

Shade Matching:

Than the sample going through shade matching in light box under different

light source as per buyer requirement.

Fig: Light box


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12.6 VAT/ Thermosol Process:

Dyes and chemical mixing

Padding

Steaming

Oxidation

Soaping

De-Watering

Drying

Finishing

Drying

Shade matching


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12.6.1 Recipe for Thermosol:

Dyes/Chemical Amount

Dyes 2 gm

Levelling Agent 10 ml

Wetting agent 2 ml

Water Rest out of 100 ml

Curing 130-140 0c for 2 min

Hydrose 75g

NaOH 100 ml

Steaming 100 0c

H2O2 10 g/l (50%)

DDC & Na2CO3 5 -6 g/l

Drying 150-160 0c


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12.7 Pigment Process

12.7.1 Pigment Recipe:

Pigment/Chemical Amount

Pigment X gm

Binder Pigment×40%

Levelling agent 10 ML

Wetting agent 2 ML

Water Others+ water= 100 ML

Color & paste mixing

Padding

Drying


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Dyes Mixing:

For proper mixing of dyes into water need to proper agitation. For this reason,

mixing machine is necessary.

Fig: Mixing Machine

12.8 ANALYTICAL DEPARTMENT

12.8.1 Dyes quality verification:

Applicable test for dyes quality verification are as follows:

i. Reactive dyes

ii. Disperse dyes

iii. Vat dyes

iv. Pigment dyes


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12.8.2 Chemical Quality Verification:

Applicable test for chemical quality verification are as follows:

i. Concentration of Hydrochloric acid.

ii. Formic acid test. -

iii. Glubers salt test.

iv. Concentration of Acidic acid. -

v. Concentration of Soda ash.

vi. Concentration of Oxalic acid.

vii. Concentration of Caustic soda.

viii. Concentration of Sulfuric acid.

ix. Concentration of Hydrogen peroxide.

x. Wetting agent test.

12.8.2 Fiber analysis

Composition is found out by qualitative and quantitative analysis.

12.8.3 Qualitative analysis

Burning test

Take a small tuff of fibers (in this case yarn) and place close of the side of a small

flame. Note if the fiber melt or shrink from the flame.

Move the fibre into the flame. Note whether the fibred burn and when held in the

flame. Remove from the flame very slowly and note whether they continue to burn

outside the flame.

Blow out the flame if still burning and smell the smoke. Note the odour and examine

the color and nature of any ash or residue.

Compare the behavior observed with that of the table flame retardant modification

of some fibre cotton, rayon and acetate has retardate burning. Odour or burning and


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ash may be changed. Colored fibers especially those colored by pigments-will

retain color in the color residue.

The vegetable fibre and regenerated cellulose (rayon) small like burning paper.

Animal fiber and manmade protein fibers has odour of burning hair or feathers.

Other manned fibre like acrylic nylon and spandex have characteristic odour which

can be recognized with experience

Type of fibre Melts

near

flame

Shrinkage

from

flame

Burns

in

flame

Continuous

to burn

Appearance

of ash

Cotton/cellulose No No Yes Yes Light

grayish

Wool Yes Yes Yes Slowly Irregular

Blake

Polyester Yes Yes Yes Yes Hard Blake

round bead

Nylon Yes Yes Yes Yes Hard gray

round bead

Rayon No No Yes No None

Solubility test:

For test as room temperature (20°C) place a small sample of fibres in a watch crystal

test tube or 50ml beaks and cover with the test solvent. Use above 1 ml of solvent

per 10 gm of fibre


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Hydrochloric

acid

Sulfuric acid Sulfuric acid Formic acid

Concentration

(%)

Temperature

(°C)

Time (minute)

20

20

10

59.5

20

20

70

38

20

85

20

5

Cotton/cellulose Insoluble Insoluble Soluble Insoluble

Wool Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

Polyester Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

Nylon Soluble Soluble Soluble Soluble

Rayon Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

Barium activity number of mercerized fabric test:

The procedure for barium activity number test on mercerized cloth is given bellow-

Machine / solution used : N/A

Machine / solution

manufactured by

: N/A

Person responsible : QA lab assistant

Frequency : As and when required

Procedure : Take one unmercerized sample and 3

more sample from left, center and

right so that the sample

weight is approximately 5 gm.

Check the pH if the value is not

natural than washed the sample

with 10 g/l natural soap and 2 g/l

soda ash.boi the sample for one

hour and checked the pH of

washed liquid.

Than dry the sample.


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After drying take accurately 2 gm portion of each of the sample and cut them into

3mm square. Place the cut portion in 250 ml volumetric flask. Add 30 ml of 0.25 N

barium hydroxide solutions in each of flask and keep them for 2 hours. Stir the

content at some interval.

After 2 hours pipette out 10 ml of solution from the flask and titrate with 1 N HCl.

Not down the reading.

Barium activity number = {(b-s)/(b-u)} × 100

Performance standard : 128-140

In case of non-conformity : Inform mechanical maintenance

personnel / relevant area in charge for

corrective action.

PH Test

The details of pH test procedure is given bellow-

Machine / solution used : Universal indicator solution, flame able

liquid, mixable with water, color scale

range for pH 410

Machine / solution

manufactured by

: E-Merck (India) LTd.

Person responsible : QA lab assistant

Frequency : Every thousand meter

Procedure : 2-3 drop of water are spayed over the

fabric, and then added 1-2 drop of pH

solution over it. The resulted color is

than compared with the scale.


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Performance standard : -pH 7-8 for reactive.

- pH ≤ 7 for disperse.

In case of non-conformity : Hot wash

Water Hardness Test:

100ml water is taken in a bickers & 4ml ammonia buffer solution is taken in it. - 2-

3 drops black indicator ( Ericromic Black T) .Then have to titrate with 0.01N

EDTA.

Result: = Burette reading × 10, Standard> 60

If burette reading is more than 6o then it will not be ok.

Shade check

Machine: Spectrophotometer

Machine manufactured by: Data color international.

Person responsible: QA lab assistant

Frequency: Every thousand

Procedure: Collect sample from dyeing after every

thousand meter.

Measure the sample by spectrophotometer: Print out the result.

Make shade continuity card.

Samples are also compared visually with approved lab dip.

Performance standard : ΔE value 1.0-1.5

In case of non-conformity : Inform QA executive who take the

following necessary action:


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12.9 Quality Control

12.9.1 Physical Test:

Existence of modern dyeing factory cannot be thought without lab. Lab of a modern

dye house can be considered as the heart of the industry. Different equipments are

used in lab. All the equipments used in lab can be categorized into two i.e.

equipments for lab dip preparation or chemical test and equipment for physical test.

12.9.2 Typical Physical Test:

1. Tear Strength

2. Tensile Strength

3. Seam Slippage

4. Stress & Recovery

5. Color fastness to rubbing

6. Abrasion & pilling Tester

7. Wrinkle Recovery

8. Shirley crease recovery tester

9. Color fastness to light

10. Yarn Tester

11. Shrinkage & Skew

12. Water spray

13.

If shade is too light or dark Rematch or stripe respectively

If shade is lighter Topping at finishing or dyeing

If shade is darker Re-wash or Re-CPS

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/02/study-on-different-laboratory.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/02/study-on-different-laboratory.html

http://textileflowchart.blogspot.com/2015/03/process-flow-chart-of-dyeing-lab-or-lab.html


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12.9.3 Typical Chemical Test:

1. Teflon test

2. Color fastness to Perspiration

3. Color fastness to wash

12.9.4 Description:

Tear Strength:

Method:

EN ISO 13937-2:2000 Tear properties of fabrics-part-2

Materials & Equipment:

Scissor

Cotton fabric

Elmendorf's tearing tester

mm Scale

Procedure:

Cotton fabric was taken.

Warp and weft direction of the fabric was identified.

Two strips were cut from the fabric in both directions having dimensions of

100 x 63.5 mm.

The sample was then fixed in the jaws of the tearing tester.

A cut of 20mm was made along the width of the fabric using the cutter in the

tearing tester.

By using falling pendulum of the tearing tester the fabric was tear and the

readings were noted from the Elmendorf's tester's scale.


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Tensile Strength:

Tensile strength is a measurement of the force required to pull something such as

rope, wire, or a structural beam to the point where it breaks. The tensile strength of

a material is the maximum amount of tensile stress that it can take before failure, for

example breaking.

Method:

ASTM D5034 1 Grab Tensile strength

ISO 13934-1:2013

Textiles -- Tensile properties of fabrics

http://www.iso.org/iso/home/store/catalogue_ics/catalogue_detail_ics.htm?ics1=59&ics2=080&ics3=30&csnumber=60676


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Seam Slippage:

Seam slippage is a fabric problem especially for fabrics that contain slippery yarns

or that have an open structure or where the number of warp and weft interlacing’s is

low. Such factors mean that one set of yarns may be easily pulled through the other.

Seam slippage is the condition where a seam sewn in the fabric opens under load.

Some of this gap may close on removal of the load but some of it may be a permanent

deformation.

Method:

ISO 13936-1:2004

Textiles -- Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven

fabrics -- Part 1: Fixed seam opening method

Martindale Abrasion & pilling Resistance:

Fabric is mounted flat and rubbed in a figure eight-like motion using a piece of

worsted wool cloth as the abradant. The number of cycles endured before the fabric

shows an objectionable change in appearance is counted and determines the fabric’s

abrasion rating.

20,000 = general contract upholstery

40,000 = heavy duty upholstery

Multiple factors affect fabric durability and appearance retention, including end-user

application and proper maintenance.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-is-seam-types-of-seam.html



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Method:

ASTMD4970 /

D4970M - 16

Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other

Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Martindale

Tester

ISO 12947-2:1998

Textiles -- Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale

method

Stress & Recovery:

For end using purposes this test is necessary to pre-determination of fabric elasticity

property.

Method:

ASTM

D3107

This test method covers the determination of the amount of fabric

stretch, fabric growth, and fabric recovery of fabrics woven in whole or

in part from stretch yarns after a specified tension and extension.

Shrinkage & Skew:

Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size,

usually through the process of laundry. Cotton fabric suffers from two main

disadvantages of shrinking and creasing during subsequent washing.

There are two types of shrinkage occurs during washing

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D4970.htm






http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/09/flow-chart-of-garment-washing.html


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1) Length wise

2) Width wise

ASTMD7811 -

13

Standard Test Method for Bow and Skew Using a Measuring

Tool

ISO 13015:2013

Woven fabrics -- Distortion -- Determination of skew and bow

Formula:

Shrinkage % = (length of fabric before wash)-(length of fabric after wash))/ (length

of fabric after wash) *100

Water spray Test:







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Water Repellency Tester is used to check the water repellency of the fabric by spray

test in textile testing laboratory. Suitable for Table cloth, tapestry, flooring material

fabric manufacturer or processors.

Water repellency test method is applicable to any textile fabric, which may or may

not have been given a water-repellent finish. It is very necessary for a manufacturer

to test the water repellency ability of the fabric. This method is especially suited for

measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics.

Standards:

SO 9865:1991

Textiles -- Determination of water repellency of fabrics by the Bundesmann rain-

shower test

Wrinkle Recovery:

Wrinkle Resistance / Stay Smooth Technology- Ability to resist creasing,

wrinkling, folding deformations in washing.

Resin finishes are generally associated with anti-wrinkle properties.

Visually evaluate after 5 Washes →Fabric smoothness

→Seam puckering

→Crease Retention

Test Method:

AATCC 143, 124, 88

ISO 9867:2009

Textiles -- Evaluation of the wrinkle recovery of fabrics -- Appearance method




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Crockmeter/Rubbing Fastness Tester:

Features of Crockmeter:

To determine the Color Fastness of Textiles.

The equipment consists of a counter.

It is provided with a flat peg.

It also consists of an operating handle.

Tests the color fastness of the textile in a very accurate manner.

It gives not only accurate but quick results also.

Specifications of Crockmeter:

Diameter of the Rubbing Finger : 16 mm & 25 mm

Force on the Finger : 9 N & 20 N

Size of Crocking Cloth : (5 x 5) Cms & (7 x7) cms

Length of the Traverse : 100 ±5 mm

Counter (Re-settable) : 4-Digit Counter

Size of Test Specimen : 25 x 5 Cm

Overall Dimension of the Unit : 600 (W) x 190 (D) x 200 (H) mm

Net Weight of the Unit : 4 Kg. (9 lbs.)

Construction : Cold-rolled steel

Technical specifications & appearance of machines are subject to change without

any notice.


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Crock meter confirms with the following international standards:

ISO 105, BS 1006, AATCC 8, BS EN 20105

Working Procedure:

Dry Rubbing:

• Properly mount your specimen and test cloths. The counter has to be reset by

moving the knob on the left side of the counter. The finger is positioned on the

specimen at the base’s front end and handle is rotated in the clockwise direction at

the rate of approximately 1 revolution per second. The handle is then rotated equal

to the number of strokes specified by the test method.

• When the desired number of strokes is reached, the crocking cloth is removed

from the finger and its degree of staining has to be evaluated by SDC grey scale.

Wet Rubbing:

• A fresh piece of crocking cloth is soaked in distilled water and the excess water

is removed so that it contains its own mass of water.

• The wet piece of the crocking cloth is fixed over the end of the finger of the

Crock meter and the test is undertaken.

• The dyed or printed fabric has to be mounted on a lower platform.

• Then 10 cycles are rubbed with a white fabric, which is mounted on a peg in the

upper rubbing arm.

• Then the extent of color that rubs away onto the white fabric against a color

transference scale has to be determined.

• The rubbing action of the peg+ enabled fibers from the upper colored flannel

fabric surface to be transferred onto the white backing fabric mounted on the lower

platform.

• The cloth is then removed to evaluate the discolor level in comparison with a

gray-scale


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Color fastness to Light:

Fig: Xenon Arc Light Fastness Tester(James Heal)

The purpose of Color fastness to light test is to determine how much the color will

fade when exposed to a known light source. It is an off line quality assurance system.

Generally man wears the fabric and goes outside of the home for doing their job. In

day; sun light fall on the fabric surface. So it needs to know how much protection

ability have a fabric to sun light. It is determined by an experiment called color

fastness to light. To measure the color fastness a blue scale is used. After completing

the test, sample is compared with the blue scale.

Color fastness to perspiration:

The color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (color

change and staining). This criterion does not apply to white products, to products

that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles

intended for interior decoration. A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics

are both light colored (standard depth < 1/12) and made of silk or of blends with

more than 20% silk. This kind of test is specially applied for the sports wear and

heavy dresses which is used specially. Normal cloths is also tested by perspiration

test.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/what-is-fastness-color-fastness-scales.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/11/different-color-fastness-tests.html


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The garments a\which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy

may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the

resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acidic and alkaline perspiration.

Before knowing about the Color Fastness to perspiration you must have to know

about Color Fastness to Wash and Color Fastness to Rubbing.

Fig: Multifiber

Equipment for Fastness Measurement

1. Perspiration tester

2. Oven, Maintained at 37+-2 Degree centigrade

3. Multifiber test fabric

4. Grey scale

5. Color matching chamber

6. Acidic and Alkaline solution

7. Glass or Acrylic plat

8. Weight.

Reagent for Perspiration Test

1. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-hydrochloride

mono-hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.5g disodium hydrogen ortho

phosphate per litre brought to PH 8.0 with 0.1N sodium hydroxide.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/07/washing-fastness-wash-fastness_2980.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/color-fastness-to-rubbing-rubbing_1201.html


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2. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-hydrochloride

mono-hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.2g sodium dihydrogen ortho

phosphate per litre brought to PH 5.5 with 0.1N sodium hydroxide.

3. Two undyed cloths for each specimen each 6×6cm of the same kind of fibre

as the sample. Place the specimen between the two pieces of white cloth and

sew along one side to form a composite sample.

12.10 Fabric Sample

Different types of fabric are available in south china Bleaching and dyeing factory

Ltd.

Here are depicting bellow-

50% BCI Cotton poplin


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97% cotton 3% stretch rib stop

100 % cotton oxford canvas


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100 % cotton panama canvas

100% cotton Dobby


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100% cotton 2/1 S Twill

100% cotton 3/1 S Twill


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100% cotton Bedford Cord

100% cotton Broken Twill


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100% cotton Cavalry S Twill

100% cotton ottoman canvas


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CHAPTER 13

GARMENTS


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13.1 GARMENTS MANUFACTURING

Garment manufacturers are primarily engaged in the design, cutting and sewing of

garments from fabric. Some manufacturers are contractors or subcontractors, which

generally manufacture apparel from materials owned by other firms. Larger

manufacturers often contract production to many such contractors or subcontractors

in the U.S. and abroad. Some manufacturers are vertically integrated, producing the

textiles from which they make garments, or even operating retail outlets too.

Garment Manufacturing Process Flow Chart

Garment manufacturing includes number of processes from order receiving to

dispatching shipment of the finished garments. A process flow chart helps to

understand how raw materials are moved from one process to another process until

raw materials are transformed into the desired product (garments).

To be noted that a process flow chart made for the garment manufacturing processes

will vary based on manufacturing facility and product types. As some companies do

whole process in single plant when others do production jobs and other auxiliary

processes are outsourced.

Based on present apparel industry, garment manufacturing processes are categorized

as

Pre-Production Processes - Pre-production process includes sampling,

sourcing of raw materials, Approvals, PP meeting etc. Read this for further

reading on pre-production processes.

Production processes - Production processes are cutting, sewing etc.

Post production processes - thread trimming, pressing, checking, folding and

packing, shipment inspection etc.

Instead of making a single process flow chart, I have made one chart for major

processes and two separate charts for cutting room processes and finishing

processes for detailed process chart.

http://hubpages.com/technology/Improvement-Model-for-Ready-Made-Garment-Industry-of-Pakistan

http://hubpages.com/technology/The-Ready-Made-Garment-Industry-of-Pakistan

http://hubpages.com/business/retail-businesses/983

http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-production-processes-in-garment.html


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13.2 Organogram of Goldtex garments Limited


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13.3 Some buyers of Goldtex Garments Lid:


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13.4 Garment manufacturing process flow chart (major

processes)


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Each process of garments manufacturing flow chart is discussed in the below with

the details Depends on GOLDTEX GARMENTS LIMITTED:

13.4.1 Design / Sketch:

In the garment manufacturing the first step is designing the sketch for the dresses

that have to be prepared. For this purpose the designer first draw several rough

sketches in the sketch book. The designer does not go for details at this moment but

he rather let his creativity flow on the paper and he draws many sketches. Later these

sketches are analyzed by a panel of designers. They finally select few out of them.

These few sketches are rendered in detail separately or in the form of a single

collection. The designer also draws working drawings along with the sketch.

Working drawings are flat drawing of the sketch and it help pattern maker in

understanding the patterns involved in the construction.

http://hubpages.com/art/sewing/136


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13.4.2 Pattern Making:

Patterns are paper templates for all the components of a garment, such as cloths,

lining, interlining which have to be cut for a garments. These patterns are used to

draw sketch on cloth or marker paper.

The pattern maker now develop first pattern for the designsin any one standard size.

This is made by pattern drafting method and the purpose of making this pattern is to

create the sample garment for test fit.

Fig: Pattern design

13.4.3 Sample Making:

The first patterns are sent to the sewing unit for assembling them into garment.

This is usually stitched on calico or muslin which is an inferior quality of fabric

and it reduces cost. This sample is constructed to analyze the pattern fit and design

too. After the sample garment is stitched it is reviewed by a panel of designers,

pattern makers and sewing specialists. If any changes have to be made they are

made at this time.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/garments-pattern-pattern-making-to-make.html

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Steps of pattern making:

Patterns are made in two steps:

1. Block pattern.

2. Working pattern.

1. Block pattern:

Block pattern or basic block indicates the original pattern. Block Pattern is made

based on the specific and standard body measurement without any design or style.

It is produced according to exact dimension of body for different age group and

gender.

Block pattern making method:

i. Flat method:

In this method, different parts of garments, specially major parts are made by

technical drawing. In the technical drawing, proportion of different parts of a

garment is considered. This pattern can be made by both manual and computerized

method.

ii. Modeling:

It is primary and first method and widely used in garment industry. Block is made

with standard body measurement of mannequin. This block is called toile. Toile is

worn on the mannequin and adjusted the pattern necessarily. Then Toile is worn out

from the body and individual parts of Toile are drawn on hard paper.

2. Working pattern:

Working pattern is derived from the flat method or modeling. Each and every

pattern is laid on the board paper to copy the block pattern. Then sewing

allowance, Trimming allowance, Button hole, button attaching, dart, pleat, Notch,

shrinkage of the fabric, etc are added with the copied pattern. Working pattern are

needed for each an every part of the garments. Working patterns are then cut with a


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sharp scissor or knife. Garment size and name of the parts are written on the

pattern pieces. Sample garments are made from the working pattern.

Fig: Pattern grading

Fig: Pattern marking


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13.4.4 Grading

Grading means the step wise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to

create larger or smaller sizes. The starting point can be the smallest size or the

middle size. Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its general shape and

appearance. Computer aided grading systems utilize internal calculation algorithms

(grading rules) for pattern construction.

Two methods of Grading:

1. Manual Grading

2. Computer aided Grading

3.

Manual Grading:

The desired range of sizes is created one by one using a pattern template. Marks

are made around the master pattern at the appropriate distance and the marks are

later joined up to form the enlarged pattern. In this way a full set of templates, the

pattern set is generated.

A Grading machine eases the task of creating the pattern set. The device grips the

master pattern and displaces it by a precise vertical and horizontal distance, after

which the appropriate edge can be traced.

Computer aided Grading:

Computer based Grading systems are operating in one of two ways:

A.

1. The patterns can be cut out and can be used to make marker manually, if

necessary.

2. The graded sizes can be stored in the model files of the computer and recalled

when cutting markers for that style are to be planned on the system.


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B.

1. The grading increments are fed in to the computer and the different sizes are

generated automatically using the same method as applied for manual

Grading.

2. The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately starting from the

data in the size charts. The resulting layer of the patterns can be displayed to

scale on the computer monitor for visual assessment and if necessary

adjustment.

Once the pattern set has been generated on the computer, it may be used in various

ways, depending on the level of automation in the factory.

In a fully automated system, the garment parts will be sorted automatically and

arranged in to a lay plan which can then be transmitted in the form of a control

program to the automatic laying and cutting system. Alternatively, the patterns can

be sent to a large plotting device where they will be drawn at full scale to serve as

paper patterns for manual cutting.

13.4.5 CAD/CAM for Fashion and Clothing Designing

Fashion designing is a field which is making waves now-a-days. Clothing

construction and designing is on the other hand another broad business which

encompasses many distinctive areas. As with other fields of life fashion designing

too has been influenced a lot from the advances in computer technology. Today most

of the big guns in the fashion and clothing business depend on the use of

computerized technologies in performing regular and unique tasks. The manual

methods of designing and clothing construction have been taken by digital

technologies. These technologies have made the tasks easier, faster, cheaper (in

some areas), better and reliable. With the passage of time its demand is increasing

and ten years from now computer aided systems will be the only possible way to do

tasks. Companies who will not be equipped with such technologies will be unable

to survive.


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In spite of great demand of computer technology in fashion and clothing areas, a

very limited literature is found on it. Basically clothing and fashion industry utilizes

CAD/CAM technologies. CAD is short for Computer Aided Designing and CAM

for Computer Aided Manufacturing. These two technologies have revolutionalized

the fashion business.

Applications of CAD/CAM:

There are varied and wide applications of CAD/CAM in fashion designing. Almost

any and every machine can be interfaced with computer to work smartly and

efficiently. Uses of CAD/CAM technologies in fashion designing can be illustrated

better by knowing the steps of clothing construction and fashion designing, because

in each step use of CAD/CAM can improve the process.

After the designer is sure about the idea behind his collection he needs to draw

sketches of the dresses and accessories. The designer starts drawing from rough

sketches which he later needs to trim in order to decide about the final sketches.

Sketching is one of the most important steps in designing because the designer has

to work through his creativity and knowledge of the trends in order to create

something unique yet acceptable. Every designer must have to be a very good

illustrator. In most of the fashion designing institutes sketching is taught to the

students from the very beginning of the course and till the end to master all the skills

and to become qualified illustrator.

CAD has made sketching faster and easier but the major advantage of using CAD in

sketches comes from the many handy tools that are available in CAD software that

are unable to be used in manual drawing method. Varieties of softwares are available

today for fashion sketching and it is not too much to say that a person who has never

learnt sketching on computer can easily work with them because they are so

explanatory and there are so many tutorials available many of them are free. In CAD

the designer can draw and erase and than again draw and erase and mix ‘n match

and do and redo. These are only few of the advantages of using CAD for sketching

as the designer starts using CAD instead of manual method he becomes acquainted

with loads of other advantages too.


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13.4.6 Marker Making:

The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and

size of garment. Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric

layout to suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to

the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples.

Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during

cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how

much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore

careful execution is important in this step.

Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there

is no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical

calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being

cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back,

sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on

a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is

called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the

processes is as following. Each process is briefly explained in the following.

13.5 Cutting Room Process Flow

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being

cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back,

sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on

a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is

called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the

processes is as following. Each process is briefly explained in the following.


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13.5.1 Cut ratio receiving:

Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from planning department or

merchandiser or production manager that includes total quantity of garment pieces

to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and colour-wise size break up. According to the

size and colour ratio cutting team prepare one marker or multiple markers. Marker

length and number of lay to be cut are planned in this stage.


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13.5.2 Fabric receiving:

Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption

of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple colour order, colour wise

requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric

requirement (generally requisition slip is used).

13.5.3 Fabric Spreading:

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one

on top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right

and wrong sides of the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies

of each color is obtained from the cut order plan. Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine

2. Volume of production

3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)

4. Thickness of fabric

Fig: Automatic spreading machine

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13.5.4 Requirements of Spreading Process:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of

fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming

fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.

3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all

faces up, all faces down, face to face etc.

4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are

used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of

the knife.

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect

in garments due to variation in dimension.

7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines:

All the requirements of spreading process can be fulfilled by fully automatic

spreading machines. Their features include:

1. Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device for fabric

rolls.

2. Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.

3. Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.

4. Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutoff) at the end of a run.

5. Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.

6. Automatic lay height sensing elevator.

7. Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.

8. Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.

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13.5.5 Fabric Cutting:

The first stage in the manufacturing of garments is the cutting and for that pattern

making is the base. Cutting is separating of the garment in to its components and in

a general form it is the production process of separating (sectioning, curving,

severing) a spread into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern

pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also involve transferring marks and

notches from the garment parts to assist operators in sewing, chopping or sectioning

a spread in to blocks of pieces goodsmany precede precision cutting of individual

patter shapes.This is done to allow for accurate matching of fabric design or easier

manufacturing of acutting knife.

Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a

process called "cutting." Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from

low- to high-tech. Although scissors are used very rarely-only when working with

very small batches or sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be done by hand,

particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here, cutters guide electric

cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric

stack. An electric drill may be used to make pattern notches. The accuracy and

efficiency of this system is considerably less than in computerized cutting systems.

Fig: Auto Cutter


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Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology

costs decrease and labor costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize

vacuum technology to hold stacks of fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are

sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment

Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This

technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost

considerably more than other cutting techniques.

13.5.6 Machine Specification:

Name Value

Machine Name Fully automatic machine

Brand Vector fashion MH

Blade height 5 cm

For light fabric 120 ply

For heavy fabric 80 ply

Turbine vacuum 138.18 mbar

origin France, Paris

Marker length 11 yards 10”

13.5.7 Numbering:

Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all

components from same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade

variation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components

may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is

maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is layer number in each

component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched

together.

13.5.8 Sorting:

According to production system (Make through, progressive bundle or one piece

flow system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a garment


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placed together. Size wise sorting and in case multiple colours are cut in a single lay,

colour wise sorting will be required.

13.5.9 Bundling

As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all

component are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is

marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that

bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for stitching.


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CHAPTER 14

SEWING DEPARTMENT


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14.1 Flow chart for sewing department:

Product analysis

↓ Set up target for production

↓ Set up machine layout on the basis of target

↓ Set up operator layout on the basis of target

↓ QC check of product

↓

Line balancing

↓ Line setup

↓ Distribution all the processes

↓

Cutting parts received section

↓ Cutting parts distribution to the operator and helper

↓ Complete parts making individually

↓ Online QC check

↓ Online quality audit

↓ Counting output and checking with the target

↓ Final quality check (for each Garment)

14.2 Sewing/Assembling:

The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment

manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract

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to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain

quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired

keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls

the process.

There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces.

In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One

operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet

another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various

industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make.

These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work

sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the

gang machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised

by a single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at

that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are

assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.


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14.3 Line Lay-Out for basic pant:

Front part:

Function Machine Name Machine quantity and man

power

Inside facing Lock stitch 1

Pocket tuck Lock stitch 1

Front pocket joint Single needle chain

stitch

1

Front pocket piping Single needle chain

stitch

1

Single ply joint 3-thread over lock 1

Single ply chain joint Lock stitch 1

Double ply zipper

joint

Lock stitch 1

Crotch point joint Lock stitch 1

Front pocket joint Lock stitch 1

Front pocket seam Lock stitch 2

Front pocket facing Lock stitch 1

Two pocket tuck Lock stitch 1

Inseam overlock 3-thread over lock 1


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Back part:

Function Machine Name Machine quantity and

man power

Dirt/Pleat Lock stitch 1

Fusing (Back pocket) 1

Back pocket joint on the

fusing

Lock stitch 1

Bone pocket joint

Cutting

Computerized Out of line

Bone tuck Lock stitch 1

Bone pocket seam Lock stitch 1

Size lebel attach Lock stitch 1

Main lebel and care lebel

attach

Lock stitch 1

Back pocket 2 part

attach

Chain stitch 1

Back pocket piping Chain stitch 1

Back rise piping Lock stitch 1

Bone seam Lock stitch 1

Side seam & inseam

overlock

3-thread overlock 1

Front and back part

assembly

Table 1


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Front & Back part:

Function Machine Name Machine quantity and

man power

Out seam stitch Single needle chain stitch 1

Safety stitch Lock stitch 1

Quality

control/Inspection

Table 1

Inseam joint Single needle chain stitch 1

Back rise Single needle chain stitch 1

Waist band stitch mark

at loop position

Table 1

Waist band marking Table 1

Loop attach Vertical Trimming m/c-

Lock stitch

1

Waist band attach+main

lebel attach

Lock stitch 2

QC Table 1

Hole mark Table 1

Hook attach Button holing m/c 1

Waist band closed Lock stitch 2

Waist band Tuck Lock stitch 1

Band Top Seam Lock stitch 1

Waist band Tuck

remove

Pin 1

Double ply Top seam Lock stitch 1

BarTak Bartak m/c 7


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J-Stitch Lock stitch 1

Ply Tuck Lock stitch 1

Hem overlock 3-Thread overlock 1

Loop tuck Lock stitch 1

BarTak Bartak m/c 7

Loop Tuck Lock stitch 1

Final Inspection Table 1

Waist Band:

Function Machine Name Machine

quantity and

man power

Waist band

(Fusing+Barkam+Interlining)

Single needle

chain stitch,

Kansai

1

Waist band Tuck Lock stitch 2

14.4 Some stitches in garment sewing:

Chain Stitch:

Chain stitch is one kind of ornate sewing stitch where loops are joined as like the

forms of a chain. This stitch is formed by two or more sets of those threads are called

needle thread and looped thread. In the garments manufacturing process generally

chain stitch is mostly used in seam and out seam of trouser, side seam of shirt and

decorative purpose.

http://textilemerchandising.com/classification-of-seam/

http://textilemerchandising.com/category/production/


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Lock Stitch:

Lock stitch is most common stitch in garments where two threads are locked each

other at the minor intervals. This stitch is formed by at two sets of threads those are

needle thread and bobbin thread. In the garments manufacturing process normally

lock stitch is mostly used in collar, front pocket, bottom hem and undergarments.

Over lock:

Flat Lock:

http://textilemerchandising.com/classification-of-seam/

http://textilemerchandising.com/category/garments/


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CHAPTER 15

GARMENTS WASHING


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15.1 Garments Washing:

Garments wash is a new technology in the garment trade. Normally washing mean

cleaning something. But in garment trade only cleaning of garments is not the

garment wash. Garment washing is a technology which is applied to change or

modify the outlook, appearance, comfort ability and design of garments. Garment

washing is applied on solid dyed garments or solid printed fabric.

The primary objects of garment washing is

To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing.

To soften the garment hand feel and improve bulkiness

To remove dirt, spots, oil stains that accumulate to garment at the garment

manufacturing processes.

To remove chemicals used during printing process and embroidery process

There are two types of wash on garments:

(Goldtex garments Ltd.)

1. Wet/Chemical Washing:

2.

Enzyme wash

Stone Wash

Acid wash

Bleach wash

3. Dry/Physical Wash

Hand sand

Wrinkle

PP spray

Hand grinding

Tearing

Volganing


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15.2 Process flow chart of garment washing:

Garments Receive

Quality check

Washing

Hydro-extractor

Drying

Final Q.C

Pass garments to Finishing


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Fig: Washing m/c (capacity: 50 kg)

15.3 Recipe:

A. Bleaching & Whitening Recipe:

i. First step

Chemical Amount

Caustic 1200 gm

H2O2 1000 gm

IP-30 300 gm

Optical Brightener 70 gm

50 gm

Temp 70 0c

Time 15 min


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ii. Second step

Chemical Amount

Optical Brightener 60 gm

Time 10 min

Temp 0

iii. Third step

Chemical Amount

Soft. GWR-888 6 kg

Silicon 5 kg

Time 12 min

Temp 0

15.4 Chemical Washing:

Enzyme Wash:

The wash in which enzyme is used called enzyme wash. This enzyme may be neutral

or acid depends on the requirement of shed. In this wash, enzyme is used for

producing different types of abrasion for the garments. As a result, the garments are

looking very nice to see. The main target of enzyme wash is to change the outlook

of any knit garments.

Stone Wash:

In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more

unique appearance and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the wash

bath. A variety of natural and synthetic stones are available for stonewashing with

perhaps the most widely used being pumice or volcanic rock. As the stones are used,

they slowly disintegrate, reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over a period

of time. The stones not only abrade the fabric but also gradually abrade the inside of

the rotary drum. A machine used for stonewashing should not be used to dye delicate

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articles or when abrasion would be detrimental to the fabric.

Acid Wash:

The main target of this wash is to produce uneven look on knit garments. Acid wash

is done by potash and stone. At first, we have to dip the stone in potash solution then

slight dry the stone and wash in a washing machine. After all we will get an uneven

look on garments.

Bleaching Wash:

Bleach wash is one of the garments washing process which is done by using strong

oxidative bleaching agent. Sodium hypochlorite and potassium per-manganate

(KMnO4) are two bleaching agents. By applying bleaching agent, color can be

removed uniformly from the garment and removal of color have done as per

requirement (as buyer’s provided wash approval). It should be noted that, there are

three categories of bleaching, such as light bleach (where maximum color is

removed), medium bleach and bleach. By applying bleaching wash special types of

fading effect can be produced in the garments. Bleach wash can be applied on all

types of garments such as woven, knit etc.

Dry Wash:

P.P Spray:

P.P Spray means potassium permanganate spray on the specific area of a garment.

This chemical is used to reduce the color from the knit garments. At first, knit

garments have to take by two person in two sides, then this chemical will be applied

with the help of P.P gun by air pressure. This spray is done on the scrapping area

and after neutralize by sodium meta-bi-sulphite chemical in washing machine, a

white look on the spray area will be achieved.

Hand Sand

Hand sand is very important dry process now a day. This process is done at dry

condition to remove the color from specific area. In maximum garments we have to

do this process because the Sand Blasting process is now banned. This process is

done manually with abrasive paper on specific area. At first we have to make the

garments and then put on dummy and scrapped. After this process quality is checked

and goes for the first wash. The effects will be visible after complete wash.

http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/process-flow-chart-of-bleaching-wash/

http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/category/garments-wash/


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Hydro Extractor

Hydro extractor machine is used for removing water from garments. After washing

we put the garments into hydro extractor machine. Hydro extractor machine works

based on the centrifugal forces. When hydro extractor is moving with high speed

materials and water wants to go outside. Materials cannot but water will go. About

70-80 percent of water is removed by this process.

Tumble Dryer:

In this dryer steam is converted to heat by using a heat exchanger. Then the heat is

applied on the garments and dried. The name of heat exchanger is condenser.

Condenser converted the steam to heat. Temperature maintained at 80-1500c depend

on fabric type.


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15.5 Flow chart of Quality control in washing plant:

Washing

Dry process

Grinding/Hand/Whisker

Audit

Dyeing

Wash

Hydro-ex

Dry

Audit(AQL 2.5)

Pass Fail

Bundling & Dispatch 100% Re- Inspection


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15.6 Garment Dye:

Garment dye process is done all time after making the garments. Traditional

garments are made from fabric that is pre dyed. Garment dye can be pigment dye or

cold dye which is totally depends on the buyer’s instruction. The main advantage of

this process is the cost effectiveness of much producing identical garments of

particular colors. Also it has another advantage, due to garments dyeing; it becomes

softer and feels more vintage which is one of the important factors to satisfy the

buyer.

15.6.1 Recipe for garment Dyeing:

INGREDIENTS AMOUNT

RUCOWET-CMR 1500 gm

WATER 700 L

TEMP 70 c

TIME 10 min

CHEMICAL AMOUNT

ALBAFLUD-CIR 160 gm

ALBATEX DBC 240 gm

ALBATEX-LD 800 gm

ALBATEX-C 800 gm

DYES/CHEMICAL AMOUNT

BLUE FGXE 1083 gm

GREY 4GXE 203 gm

YELLOW GXE 3.8 gm

TEMP 55 c

TIME 5 min

SALT 10 kg

CHEMICAL AMOUNT

HUDROCOL SUN 1800 gm

ACID 200 gm

TIME 10 min

TEMP 40 c


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CHAPTER 16

PRESSING DEPARTMENT


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16.1 Pressing

Pressing is a finishing process done by a cloth to heat and pressure with or without

steam to remove creases and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garments. In

garment industries pressing is also called ironing. After completing pressing the

garments have to be folded.

16.2 Purposes of pressing:

I. Presenting the fabric for retail

II. Making creases

III. Preparing garments for further sewing

16.3 The component of pressing:

Time

Steam

PressureDrying

http://fashionelongation.com/garment-pressing-objects-garment-pressing-advantages-disadvantages-garment-pressing/


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16.4 Flow chart in Pressing Department in Goldtex garments for basic pant

Sewing Fabric input

Thread Clearing

Inseam & out seam pressing

Loop Ironing

Legger press

Topper press

Shinning

Crease mark

Quality check

Curing at 155 0c for 15 min

Cooling

Button attach

Hang Tag

Folding

Blister Poly

Cartooning


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16.5 Pressing Equipment:

Section Pressing:

Fig: Legger pressing

This machine are normally used for Pressing Legger of the pant. This particular

machine can be efficiently operated by one person only when there is a reasonable

balance between the handling and pressing cycle times.

Fig: Topper pressing


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Inseam & outseam pressing:

This machine used for pressing inseam and out seam of the pant for flating and

removing any creases.

Fig: Inseam & out seam Press

Fusing :

Garment manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing these days. Fusing could

therefore be expected to have become a matured technology by now. Changes in the

material, in quality expectations and textile care methods entail more and more

unpleasant problems, which are often realized after an entire batch of defective

pieces has been produced. Fusing technology where by the interlining is bonded to

the outer fabric by means of a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to

another fabric.

Advantage of using Fusing:

1. In most cases the use of fusible interlinings shortens manufacturing time

with a consequent reduction in direct labour cost.

2. There is a reduction in the skill required in many operators involving fusing

compared with the sewing in of interlinings and this leads to a reduction in

training time.

3. It is easier to achieve consistent quality in the lamination process than it is

with many of operations of sewing in of interlinings.


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4. Fusible interlinings provide opportunities for alternative methods of garment

construction.

Conveyor belt press(Goldtex Ltd)

Fig: Fusing process

Conveyor belt presses are also called continuous machines because they can be

operated without stopping for the loading and unloading of the assemblies. The

conveyor belt transports the assemblies through all the processes and the belt speed

is adjustable according to the time cycle required. This type of machine is available

in different lengths and widths and can be fitted with automatic feeding and

unloading systems. A feature of the more modern machines is a microprocessor

which can be programmed to control every element of the machines operation.


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CHAPTER 15

FINISHING DEPARTMENT


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17.1 Finishing:

In production department garments are stitched by sewing machines. Stitched

garments are finished in the finishing department. Finishing activities are

performed prior packing garments into poly bags. The major activities of a

finishing department include thread trimming, checking garments and ironing.

The folding, tagging and packing of garments are done in the packing section in

the finishing department. This post covers major functions of finishing department.

Mind these functions may vary while there is a change in product categories.

17.2 PURPOSE OF GARMENT FINISH

Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to

survive in this highly competitive world market. Processing is important to

make a usable but finishing gives value addition to it.

It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can incorporate

desirable properties.

Finishing is the heart of textile processing.

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17.3 Finishing department Layout for basic pant:

Button Attach

Loop cutting

Front & back thread cutting (Outside & Inside

Pocket ironing

QC

Thread sucking

Button close

Final ironing

Body check

Body measurement

Audit

HangTag

Folding

Blister poly

Cartoning

Dispatch shipment


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17.4 Details of Lay-out:

Attaching Button:

If button is not attached at the sewing stage or before wash then in final finishing

stage button must be attached to the garments according to the design. Button

attaching process is generally left alone for after wash stage due to smaller order

quantity or to meet special need. Attaching buttons has two stages, marking &

sewing.

Inseam & Out seam thread cutting:

In stitching department thread trails and thread chains are not trimmed neatly. Uncut

threads and thread tails in garments are trimmed in the finishing department by

helpers. Uncut and loose threads on garments are considered defects.

Checking garments:

All garments are checked at the finishing stage for visuals and measurement.

Finishing checkers check the complete garment inside and out. Checking is done for

garment detailing, such as care labeling, and trims.

Thread Sucking Machines:

Thread Sucking Machines are always in great demand in the market because they

provide a perfect finish to the garment once the stitching is completed. These

machines pull out all the loose threads from the garments. Fully automated action

ensures a clean working area and reduces labor cost and saves floor space. They can

be used for a variety of different size garments, home furnishing items and even

heavy bath rugs.

Ironing garments:

Garments are ironed using a steam iron. This is done to remove creases in the

garment. For knitted garments measurements are set by steam press. Vacuum

pressing tables are used for garment pressing.


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Folding and tagging:

Pressed garments are folded in a specified dimension. Tags, such as price tags and

hang tags are attached to the garment by means of a kimble gun or threads.

Packing

After folding, garments are packing the size of polythene packet is permanent.

Specially, it is needed to ensure the placement of sticker in proper place.

Assortment

After completing the packing of garments, it must be placed the garments in a

predetermined pack by sorting according to the size and color then garments are

packed into inner box according to the size and color. This process working in order

is called assortment.


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Assortment types:

I. Solid color solid size pack

II. Solid color assorted size pack

III. Assorted color solid size pack

IV. Assorted color assorted size pack

Cartoning:

At last cartooning or packing the garments according to Buyer comment. The

process of packing of inner boxes entered into the carton is called cartooning. The

carton is properly warped by the scotch tape. Some information like carton box no,

size, shipping mark and the destination are printed on the carton.

Final Inspection & Dispatch:

Final inspection is the last steps of garment inspection system. In this stage complete

garments are inspected by buyer. Different parts of garments are inspected in this

stage such as garments main fabric, accessories, trims, label, fabric faults etc. There

are various systems for final inspection in the garment industry. Final inspection is

very important for an export order shipment

http://textilemerchandising.com/steps-of-garments-inspection/

http://textilemerchandising.com/category/garments/


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Final Inspection of Garments Quality:

The supplier must perform an internal quality inspection before offering the lot to

the manufacturer QA Auditor. To confirm the product quality, use the AQL

sampling plan table and follow these steps-

1. Establish the number of units in the consignment.

2. Use the AQL table to determine the number of units to be inspected.

3. Randomly select the sample quantity from across the sizes and color.

4. Check the sample lot quantity for all quality performance standards (i.e. Packing

Standards/ Function and Testing Standards/Visual Standards).

Once the 100% inspection has been completed, another internal inspection takes

place. If the consignment passes this second inspection, the goods can be offered for

final inspection by the manufacturer.

http://textilemerchandising.com/garments-sampling-process-for-export-order/

http://textilemerchandising.com/aql-chart-for-apparel-industry/

http://textilemerchandising.com/garments-sampling-process-for-export-order/


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CHAPTER 18

STORE ROOM

Trimmings and Accessories


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18.1 Garment Accessories:

A garment is made not only from the apparel fabric but also various accessory items.

Fabric is the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric of garment, the

other materials are known as garment accessories. These have to be chosen in such

a way that they complement the outer fabric both aesthetically, in terms of

decoration, and practically, in terms of ensuring that the garment performs as

expected in its intended end use. Various kinks of accessories are used on garments,

some are part of the garments such as buttons, zippers, interlining etc. while others

are used for decorating and enhancing the product appearance such as sequins,

embroidery etc.

18.2 Example of Trims and Accessories

1. Sewing thread

2. Buttons (Snap button, Plastic button, .Metal button.)

3. Zippers

4. Lace/tape

5. Labels (Main label , Size Label, Wash care label

6. Rivets

7. Lining fabrics

8. fusing material

9. Elastic

10. Motif

Button:

In clothing and fashion design, a button is a small disc, typically round, object

usually attached to an article of clothing in order to secure an opening, or for

ornamentation. Functional buttons work by slipping the button through a fabric or

thread loop, or by sliding the button through a reinforced slit called a buttonhole.

Buttons may be manufactured from an extremely wide range of materials, including

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natural materials such as antler, bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, and wood;

or synthetics such as celluloid, glass, metal, bakelite and plastic.

Hard plastic is by far the most common material for newly manufactured buttons;

the other materials tend to occur only in premium apparel.

2-Hole & 4-Hole Plastic Button

Zipper:

A zipper or zip fastener) is a popular device for temporarily joining two edges of

fabric. It is used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting

goods, camping gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily use items.

Interlining:

Interlining is a layer of flannel fabric sewn in between the face fabric and the

standard lining. Interlining provides insulation and also adds a luxurious weight and

softness, improves the drape of the fabric, and protects fragile fabrics. It is a popular

choice with silk draperies.Depending on the application, interlining materials can be

woven, knitted, or created by fusing fibers together. Silk, wool, and artificial fibers

with good insulating qualities are common choices for interlining.

Lining:

Lining is one kind of trimmings which is used underside of garments and use in next

to skin.


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Interlining:

Interlining is a layer of flannel fabric sewn in between the face fabric and the

standard lining. Interlining provides insulation and also adds a luxurious weight

and softness, improves the drape of the fabric, and protects fragile fabrics. It is a

popular choice with silk draperies.

Lebel:

A garment label is a communicator between the buyer and product. A garment label

contains various types of information of that garments, such as buyer name, country

of origin, types of fabric, types of yarn, fabric composition, garments size, special

instruction about care etc. Without any types of label a garment cannot be sold in the

foreign market.

Types of Label used in Garments:

There are mainly two types of label and these ares-

Main Label,

Sub Label.

A. Main Label:

Main label contains the Brand name or Brand logo of buyer such as H&M, American

Eagle, Nautica etc. Brand name is the important factor for any product. Because the

customers are targeted the Brand during buying any product. A Brand name is the

mental satisfaction about the product from the customer’s point of view. A main

label is totally certified the right quality of the brand.

B. Sub Label:

Sub Label is not a label by itself but it includes different types of label. These are in

the following:

1. Care Label,

2. Size Label,

3. Price Label,

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/interlining-use-of-fusible-interlining.html

http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/fabric-consumption-calculation-for-woven-bottom/


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4. Composition Label,

5. Special Label,

6. Flag Label.

All kinds of Sub Labels are discussed in the following:

1. Care Label:

Care label is another important types of label for the garments. It assists the

customers to know how the product should be cared. It indicates different types of

care instruction about the garments such as Washing, Bleaching, Drying, Laundering

and Ironing, if it can be maintained in directed way, then the garments will achieve

higher durability and garments shade will be perfect for its highest period of time.

Care label

2. Size Label:

Size label indicates the size of the garments. Size labels are indicated as S, M, L,

XL, where S for small, M for medium, L for large and XL for extra large.

Size label

http://www.textilehelpline.com/garment-care-labeling-code/


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3. Price Label:

Price label indicates the price of the garments.

Price label

4. Composition Label:

Composition label indicates the fabrication and composition percentage of any

garments. That means, it indicates which fabrication (Cotton Sub denim, Cotton

Regular denim etc.) and composition percentage (95% Cotton 5% Spandex, 100%

Cotton etc.) have followed during its manufacturing.

Composition label


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5. Special Label:

Sometimes the buyer advised to use special label in the garments to attract the

customers on their items. Special labels are 100% silk, 100% Cotton and 100%

Leather etc.

Special label

6. Flag Label:

Flag label is a very small label contains Brands name or Brands logo of the buyer. It

is attached in the side seam of bottom parts of the garments.

Flag label


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CHAPTER 19

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT


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19.1 Maintenance

Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that

trouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific

product quality required by the customers is sustained.

19.1.1 Types of maintenance

Preventive Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time

inspection / checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production

break downs or harmful depreciation.

Corrective Maintenance / Break down Maintenance

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order it cannot perform

its normal function.

Preventive Maintenance

Corrective Maintenance

Mechanical

Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance

Maintenance


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Maintenance Point:

No. Item need to be checked & serviced

1. Check the indirect heating line and any leakage

2. Complier cleaning of machine

3. Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required

4. Check air supply filters, regulators, and auto drain seals

5. Clean filters element and blow out

6. Greasing of Unloading Roller Bearings

7. Checking of Oil line and bolts of Unloading Roller Gearbox.

8. Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing

9. Checking and cleaning (if required) of Main Vessel Level Indicator

10. Check the roller bed of the traversing unit.

11. Check the function of heat and cool controlling valves

12. Check all belts and belt tension

13. Check all door seals

No. Item need to be checked & serviced

1. Check & clean fluff and dirt at all motor fan covers

2. Check all motor’s terminals

3. Check main panel (by using compressed air)

4. Check panel cooling fan & clean it filter

5. Check main pump inverter and its cooling fan

6. Check all on/off switches

7. Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over loads.

8. Visual checking of all power & control cables

9. Check all emergency Switches

10. Check DC drive of neel motors

11. Check all pressure switches

12. Check calibration of main vessel & all additional tank

13. Check and clean slab filter

14. Check calibration of heating/cooling. Modulation value.

15. Check all indicating lamps


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19.2 Maintenance tools & equipment’s

▪ Pliers

▪ Inside Calipers

▪ Outside Calipers

▪ Digital Multi Meter

▪ Heating Shoulder

▪ Hammer

▪ Piles etc.

Remarks

Maintenance of m/c is very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance

is important for economical consideration. In this industry maintenance program is

done by expert maintenance team. So very few times production are stopped due to

m/c problem.


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CHAPTER 20

UTILITY DEPARTMENT


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20.1 Utilities:

Utilities (water, electricity and gas) are essential services that play a vital role in

economic and social development. Quality utilities are a prerequisite for effective

poverty eradication. Governments are ultimately responsible for ensuring reliable

universal access of service under accountable regulatory frameworks. Increased

competition in the utilities sectors in recent years has entailed changes in regulatory

frameworks and ownership structures of enterprises, in addition to business

diversification. These have impacted job security and working conditions in the

sector. Adequate staffing levels and training in the use of new technologies are

important for ensuring efficiency and safety in the workplace.

Social dialogue plays a significant role in developing joint strategies by the social

partners to improve utility services, with the common goal of extending access to

services to all communities, enhancing efficiency of delivery and reviewing tariffs

and other sources of income collection. One of the key issues in the Utilities sector

is the need to respect international conventions protecting freedom of association

and collective bargaining and to avoid breakdowns in the provision of utilities where

possible.

The average age of workers in the sector is increasing in a number of countries and

there is a severe gender imbalance in some occupations, which presents challenges

for human resource planning by employers. Making employment in the sector

accessible and attractive to young men and women can be a means to address the

recruiting challenges of replacing an ageing workforce. In addition, establishing

national or sector specific training programmers, and investing in workers through

apprenticeships and lifelong learning mechanisms can be instrumental in meeting

the demands of changing skills needs of the industry.


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20.1.1 Available facilities of utility

▪ Electricity

▪ Gas

▪ Water

▪ Compressed air

▪ Steam.

Electricity

The main utility electricity is supplied from PDB and also by Generator.

Equipment used

▪ Gas turbine

No. of generator

▪ 8 (1 self-start able & other 7 are air+CH4 start able).

Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section of South

China industrial park.

Gas

▪ Gas is mainly used for steam production.

▪ The gas is used from TITAS.


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Generally, 36 m3 gases are required to produce 1-ton steam.

Water

Continuous supply of water for BTL, BDL& BKL must be ensured by pump.

Mainly water supplied from BEPZA.

Steam

Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous

demand of steam in different sections.

▪ Fire tube type boiler is used.

▪ No. of boiler: (4+1) twine boiler.

▪ 1 boiler is operated by using burn gas.

▪ 4 boilers are operated by Titas gas.

Chemicals used for boiler feed water

▪ NaCl solution for regeneration.

▪ NALCO-4654 (scale remover).

Compressor

Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as

required. In South China Ltd. five compressors are used to produce and deliver

compressed air to different section.

Natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filters above the compressor & the air is

compressed. In such a case the air becomes slightly hot. Hence cold water is drawn

to educe the temperature of compressed air. Thus the cold water becomes slightly

hot & goes through outlet pipe to the overhead reservoir. Then the water falls slowly

through a sieve and becomes cool & again feed to the compressor. At the other hand


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the cooled compressed air along with some vapors are transferred to the reservoir

where the vapors are condensed and outlets drop by drop.

The moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compressed

air is delivered to required sections of South ChinaIndustrial Park.

Chiller

▪ Manufacturer: Thermax.

▪ Country: India.

▪ To start a chiller electricity & steam is required.

▪ Capacity: [ (21083) +(500*1)] ton = 1130-ton water cooling.

▪ Absorption type Chiller is used.

20.2 BOILER

Fig: Boiler


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Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section as required.

In South China Ltd. Many boilers are used to produce and deliver steam to different

section.

20.3 Store & Inventory Control

Frequency of inventory control

▪ Monthly inventory control

▪ Annual inventory control

Scope of inventory control

▪ Raw materials

▪ Dyes store

▪ Others chemicals store

▪ Grey fabrics

▪ Finishing fabric

▪ Spare parts

▪ General store

▪ Capital equipment

▪ Accessories

▪ Stationary

▪ Maintenance parts.


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Inventory system for raw materials

▪ Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly

from head office.

▪ Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received

quantity is mentioned & noted down.

▪ Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected.

▪ Entry of data of goods in DATATEX.

▪ Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group.

▪ Department gives store requisition to warehouse.

▪ As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down.

Stages of grey fabric inventory control.

▪ After Woventing production

▪ Grey inspection

▪ Warehouse

▪ Batch preparation

▪ Dye house.

Stages of finished fabric inventory control

▪ Finishing section

▪ After final inspection ▪ Warehouse.

Remark

▪ The inventory system of BTL covers both Woventing & dyeing

inventories.

▪ The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably.

▪ An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory


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CONCLUSION


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Conclusion:

Industrial attachment program has sent us to the expected destiny of practical life

by the completion of eight-week industrial attachment at South China Ltd. We have

already understood that this factory posse the most modern woven fabrics

Processing projects in Bangladesh. During our industrial attachment program, we

had tried as our best to do our duty perfectly.

Really there is a large gap between the theoretical knowledge and practical

experiences. Industrial training is an essential part of textile education, because it

minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. This Industrial

training has increased our thinking and creativity about textile technology. It also

helps us to know about industrial production process, machineries, and industrial

management a lot and prepared us suitable for industrial life. Besides these we have

gotten first opportunity to work in industry. So we can say industrial attachment

prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.

It is completely a new experience in our life, which will be very effective in our

service life. During my training period I realized that practical experience is

valuable for service life. So thanks again for the entire person who help me for our

training.

South-china

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