SIO Waves & Beaches Core Observations & Predictions of Nearshore waves Surfzone currents Beach change Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated Observations & Predictions of Physical, Chemical, and Biological properties of the coastal ocean. State and Federal Agencies NOAA/NWS/NCEP USACE USGS FEMA Private Sector Businesses Engineering firms Marine weather providers General Public Coastal Safety Coastal Planning Marine Navigation Marine Recreation
SIO Waves & Beaches Core Observations & Predictions of Nearshore waves Surfzone currents Beach change Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated.
Jan 21, 2016
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SIO Waves & BeachesCore Observations & Predictions of
Nearshore wavesSurfzone currentsBeach change
Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated Observations & Predictions of
Physical, Chemical, andBiological properties of the coastal ocean.
State and Federal AgenciesNOAA/NWS/NCEPUSACEUSGSFEMA
Private Sector Businesses Engineering firms Marine weather providers
General PublicCoastal SafetyCoastal PlanningMarine NavigationMarine Recreation
SIO Waves and Beaches
Model Prediction (MOP) System
Wave Monitoring
Wave Buoy NetworkNOAA WW3 Forecasts
Surfzone Monitoring
Current Measurements Dye/Drifter Tracking Jetski Sand level Surveys
Beach Modeling
Beach width changeInundation levels
Coastal Wave Modeling
Breaking wave heightsRadiation stresses (Sxx,Sxy)
Beach Monitoring
LIDARATV Sand level surveys
Surfzone Modeling
Current Direction & SpeedBottom Velocities
Public
Access
To Core
Coastal
Environment
Variables
Via
“MOP Sites”
Alongcoast Model Prediction
“MOP” Sites
- 10m water depth.- 100m alongshore spacing.
CA Counties with Operational MOP Wave Information
Each MOP Site also has an associated cross-shore MOPTransect and MOP Polygon.
Predicted surfzone averaged alongshore currentswill be provided for each MOP transect on a relatively straight beach without obstructions. A seasonalcross-shore bathymetry profile is assumed if thereis no recent survey data.
MOP Alongshore Currents
MOP Site Inundation
Predicted Inundation Elevations will be providedfor transects with simpleshoreline profiles
Known elevation that results inparking lot flooding at this location
Each MOP Polygon contains a set of MOP Sandboxes.
Torrey Pines (MOP SD0584) Beach Width Change
Width Change (m)
Date
modelmeasured
MOP Beach Width Change
A data-adaptive cross-shore radiation stress (Sxx) model will provide beach change predictions for MOP Polygons with sufficient beach survey information.
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