SEPTEMBER 2 2007 THE SUNDAY I NDEPENDENT TRAVEL 9 Samara is home to more than 20 cheetah, which have been introduced with the help of the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Trust Space, fresh air and the wide-open Karoo skies are indigenous to Samara Private Game Reserve imagine it and could believe that this determined woman will oversee the fruition of yet another dream. Addo Elephant Park lies an hour’s jour- ney south and Sarah would like to see a wildlife corridor opened that would allow the animals to roam as they once did. It does seem possible and Sarah and Mark are leaving a legacy not only for their chil- dren but for the future. Just as they were charmed by that first visit, so was I. I too thought of the Karoo as a barren wasteland to be raced through on the way to the coast. I might have remem- bered visiting Graaff-Reinet, but wasn’t sure. Later conversations confirmed that I had indeed visited, but that’s how vague the memory was for me. The region’s reputation does appear to be changing. Many small Karoo towns are showing increasing tourism savvy as more travellers take an interest in exploring off the beaten track. The lodge is built like a typical Karoo homestead – simple décor makes for a more comfortable ambiance. The wide veranda echoes that of a traditional Karoo home and the diningroom hosted not only break- fast but an intimate supper with Mark and Sarah. You get a real sense of the variety and space of the reserve and the animals while on a game drive. The first surprise was to find hot water bottles on each seat. “It is winter after all,” smiled Sarah as we, all seasoned lodge visitors, exclaimed over this unusual detail – the next best thing to installing windows and heating in the vehicles. That first night, ranger Les took us tracking cheetah. Sarah and Mark are committed to stocking these endangered animals on the reserve and have not allowed lions to be brought in. With help from the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Trust near Hartbeespoort, the reserve is now home to more than 20 cheetah. We were on Sibella’s trail, Sibella and her pride of cubs. Born wild, Sibella almost died at the hands of hunters. She was rescued, underwent an operation and was rehabilitated at De Wildt. The cheetah wear radio collars and Les tuned into the radio signals on a device that looked like an old cellphone. He found Sibella. We trekked up a rocky path to find her with her cubs, which look like big, fat playful cats. The glimpse was brief. Sibella was on the hunt again and her cubs followed their mother. But it was rewarding, as only close-up encounters with wildlife can be. We stood metres away from her as she slunk away into the shadows of a setting sun. Safety is uppermost at all times, with Les cooing to her as we approached in sin- gle file and with strict instructions not to turn our backs on her. We had another glimpse of cheetah later in the weekend, when Les found Mozart and Beethoven, two bachelor cats basking under a tree. Again we stood hushed as we watched them. They looked at us warily: cat and human in a quasi kind of contact. The reserve teemed with a wide variety of game, testament to the Tompkins’ com- mitment. Proud eland slid into the bush, buffalo framed a view of sky and rolling plains and we saw herds of springbok, black wildebeest, zebra, oryx, rhino and giraffe. Erosion caused by farming is being addressed by the planting of spekboom (Portulacaria afra), which grows predomi- nantly in the Eastern Cape and is one of the plant species that is particularly suited to semi-arid conditions. For the past year, Samara has been run- ning a community/environmental aware- ness project: groups of pupils from schools in the area come to the reserve to learn about the environment and get exposure to the hospitality industry. Guests to Samara can help with this project by donating R300 per cutting: this is used to fund transport costs, potting soil and other materials. As I walked to my suite late one night I felt, for an instant as if I was all alone in the Karoo. The stars twinkled against the black sky and for a second the voices of oth- er guests faded. I felt as though I was lost in time. ❐ Samara is offering a free extension to bookings in September. From September through October, after the spring rains, the Great Karoo greens up. This is your opportunity to experience it. Reserve a two-night stay at Samara Pri- vate Game Reserve over any dates during September 2007 and get a third, fully inclu- sive night, free. Rates range from R2 070 sharing (in the lodge suites) to R2 760 (shar- ing in the Karoo suites.) For reservations: Tel: +27-49-891-0558; Fax: +27-49-892-3751; e-mail: reservations- @samara.co.za; website: www.samara.co.za or contact the lodge: +27-49-891-0880; e-mail: [email protected] The living room at Samara Lodge is relaxed and comfortable Cover: eland thunder across the reserve PHOTOGRAPHS: SAMARA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE THE SUNDAY I NDEPENDENT SEPTEMBER 2 2007 LIFE 4 JO’BURG FEAST FEST T aste of Jo’burg takes place for the first time in South Africa on the fields of the Wanderers Club, from September 6 to 9. The event involves 17 of the city’s most talented chefs, who will be preparing and serving their signature dishes outdoors over the four days. The restaurants and chefs fea- tured encompass a wide variety of food styles. Sunday Life takes a look at five of the chefs who will be cooking up a storm. Times: Thursday, September 6: 5pm to 9pm. Friday, September 7: 12 noon to 4pm and 5pm to 9pm. Saturday, September 8: 12noon to 4pm and 5pm to 9pm. Sunday, September 9: 12 noon to 4pm. Booking is essential. This can be done through Computicket on 083-915-8000 or at www.computicket.com. Prices are: R120 standard – entrance only; R200 premium – entrance and includes R100 back in “show currency” to buy food and drinks. R1 095 VIP hospitali- ty – includes R100 back in show currency, fast-track entry and VIP lounge entry with complimentary drinks. Visit www.tasteofjoburg.com for more information. Taste of Jo’burg and The Sunday Inde- pendent will be giving away five delicious meal vouchers for two at one of Jo’burg’s finest restaurants valued at R500. The prize is valid until September 31, 2007. To enter: SMS the word TSI (space) dinetaste fol- lowed by your name and surname to 34110. R2 per SMS. General Rules apply. COCO REINARHZ OF SEL ET POIVRE The African culinary renaissance is upon us and Burun- dian chef Coco Reinarhz is at the forefront of the modern African food movement. Reinarhz is the chef patron of Sel et Poivre restaurant in Sandton, Gauteng. His unique, innovative, fine-dining Afro-fusion culinary style combines classic French cuisine with the most opulent of African flavours. Alongside French culinary gems, Reinarhz has intro- duced dishes such as Ivorian Assigni crab, palm-nut- infused chicken, amadumbe and wild mushroom mille feuilles and an exquisite yam-and-crayfish rice melange inspired by the Senegalese national dish thiebou dienne. He recently co-authored To the Banqueting House, African Cuisine an Epic Journey, with Anna Trapido, a Sunday Life columnist. RECIPE Foie gras “tarte Tatin” Serves 4 Foie gras: 1 whole foie gras Salt and pepper 10g brown sugar 50ml Armagnac 50ml Port Preheat oven to 80°C Remove the vessels in the liver, then soak in warm water. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with sug- ar, Armagnac and Port. Place into a small terrine and cover with cling wrap, close terrine and cook in a bain-marie for about 35 minutes. Allow to rest in fridge for a few days; the flavour will improve. Tarte Tatin: 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into eight to 12 wedges 50g butter 80g castor sugar 20cm diameter puff pastry Preheat oven to 180°C. Fry apple with butter in an 18cm pan that can go in the oven (no plastic handle). Add sugar and allow to caramelise. Cover apples in the pan with puff pastry, making sure the pastry goes to the bottom of the pan by tucking it in with a spoon. Make small incisions in the pastry to prevent it steam- ing and going soggy. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until pastry has cooked. Invert on to a plate and serve. Slice tart and foie gras into four pieces. Place tarte tatin slice on a plate and rest foie gras slice on it. CRISTINA SATO OF Y AMATO Chef Cristina Sato was born in Hokkai- do, Japan and has lived and travelled abroad extensively. In 1995, she opened Yamato Japanese restaurant in Illovo and, 12 years on, it is still going strong and providing fresh, high quality food to its patrons. In mid-2006, Sato took over Fino Spanish Tapas Bar and Restaurant in Parktown North with her husband Zane Beer. They are hoping to encour- age all Johannesburgers to take an interest in Spanish cuisine and the tapas style of eating. RECIPE Miso cha shu ramen: cooked belly of pork in ramen/miso broth, pork mince and noodles Ramen broth: 1kg pork bones 1kg chicken bones 4 litres water 1 head of garlic, broken into cloves 5-6cm chunk fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 6 to 8 spring onions Rinse pork and chicken bones under cold water. Combine all ingredients in a big pot. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 hours. Pork belly: 800g to 1kg trimmed pork belly 1 litre soy sauce Roll pork belly and tie with strong string. Place in a large pot, cover with soy sauce and simmer for 30 to 40 min- utes until tender and cooked through. Miso cha-shu ramen: 2 litres prepared ramen broth (see above) 200g miso paste 600g egg noodles 1 onion, peeled and chopped 200g pork mince 200g bean sprouts 15ml lard (optional) 20 to 24 slices cooked pork belly (5 to 6 slices per portion) 3 to 4 spring onions, chopped for gar- nish Bring ramen broth and miso paste to the boil. Add egg noodles and cook for two to three minutes, or until done. Stir- fry chopped onion, pork mince and bean sprouts in wok until cooked. Place lard and pork mince mixture into a bowl and add noodles and broth. Top with sliced pork belly and chopped spring onion and serve. The African culinary renaissance is upon us and Burundian chef Coco Reinarhz is at the forefront of the modern African food movement In 1995, chef Cristina Sato opened Yamato Japanese restaurant in Illovo with her family and, 12 years on, it is still going strong SI_LIF pp_04+09_02-09-2007 C M Y K