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If you are looking for a wide selection
of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,
you only need to keep one name in mind.
For more than 135 years, the name
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
expertise in the art of making jewellery
and timepieces. We offer a unique
selection of valuable treasures at 29
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
especially proud because for more than
a century we have been privileged to
contribute to the grand feelings that
our customers express when they
purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our
pieces of jewellery uphold internatio-
nal standards and are born in our own
atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-
a-kind items as well as for our diverse
assortment of classic pieces with
brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-
old friendship links us with the world’s
foremost watch manufactories. You will
fi nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest
We accept all credit cards.
locations in great European metropolises,
New York City and in Beijing. Each shop
also offers service or advice whenever you
require it, so you can be certain that we
will always be available to meet your
individual needs. We cordially invite you
to discover an abundance of interesting
new items and exclusive special models at
one of Europe’s leading jewellers. Please
have a look at our website to find the
complete range of watch brands we carry.
We look forward to your visit!
Paris 16, rue Royale T +33.1.42 60 21 77 [email protected] Hamburg London Paris New York Beijing wempe.com
Emma Cheevers
8
Welcome to Paris
This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Paris has to ofer,
including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores,
as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.
In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at fashion’s exotic
infuences for this season (see our feature on page 46), discover beautiful
French homeware (page 54) and introduce the new creative directors
at two of the most prestigious Paris fashion houses (turn to page 60).
The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your
chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 43.
As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP
publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and
Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com,
or email me at [email protected]. Claiming your tax savings is
even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you
can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.
Editor’s Letter
ILLU
ST
RAT
ION
: PA
UL
X J
OH
NS
ON
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Buenos Aires
Cologne
Copenhagen
Cyprus
Чехия
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Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا
德国指南
Руководство Германия
Gothenburg
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Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Iceland
Istanbul
Italy
Lake Saimaa
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BOUTIQUES PARIS
Champs-Elysées
Opéra
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche
boutique.tagheuer.com
10
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Contributors
Patrick Leger
Patrick Leger created the
cover for the spring/summer
2014 Paris Luxury edition of
SHOP, inspired by our feature
on fashion’s international
favour this season (page
46). His larger-than-life
compositions make him the
perfect choice for this edition
– his illustration shows Paris
fashion literally on top of the
world’s style. Patrick is based
in Brooklyn, New York, and
has created artwork for clients
around the world, including
Esquire, the New York Times
and Random House.
Read more about our
cover illustration at
globalblue.com/covers
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: PA
TR
Ick
Le
ge
R
Harriet Quick
Harriet Quick reports on the
new creative directors at Louis
Vuitton and Schiaparelli for
this edition of SHOP. She
has held senior roles at the
Guardian and British Vogue,
where she was fashion features
director for over a decade.
Dorcas Brown
Photography graduate Dorcas
Brown is SHOP’s picture
editor. She previously worked
on books and events centred
around fashion, design and
flm, and has dabbled in web
design. Her vices include
overly cute accessories.
Clare Coulson
Clare Coulson is the former
fashion editor of the Daily
Telegraph and former fashion
director of Harper’s Bazaar,
for which she is currently
contributing editor. She also
writes for publications from
Net-A-Porter to InStyle.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: RAY
MO
ND
BR
OW
N
Shop Floor
12
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the
information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury
or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2013 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Patrick Leger
Contributors
Clare Coulson, Harriet Quick
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
Fashion and news editor
Dominique Fenn
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Assistant fashion and news editors
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Chief sub-editor
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Assistant picture editors
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Jiafei Fei
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Qingya He
Chinese translators
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Shi Yin, Yi Zhang
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SHOP is published by Global Blue
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B O U T I Q U E S P A R I S
10, Place Vendôme • 271, rue Saint-Honoré
Galeries Lafayette – 40, Bd Haussmann
Le Bon Marché – 24, rue de Sèvres
Contents
14
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46 Cover Story: Out Of Africa
Fashion takes a trip to far-fung lands this
season. Clare Coulson maps the journey
54 Top Table
From perfect porcelain to glamorous
glassware, Paris’s artisans ofer beautifully
crafted pieces for the table, says
stephen Doig
60 All Change
two of Paris’s most prestigious houses
welcome new creative directors this season.
Harriet Quick makes the introductions
e x Pe r i e nCe
64 Raising The Bar
Paris’s cocktail bars emulate speakeasy
style with hidden entrances, creative
concoctions and expert bartenders,
writes Verity Hogan
68 Stay In Style
sHOP’s guide to the world’s most
exclusive hotels
PrODuCts
18 Check Out
sHOP selects a standout piece from
Paris this season
20 My Favourites
Designer Christine Phung and David
Frossard and Philippe Di Méo, the
founders of the Liquides perfume
bar, reveal their top tips for spring/
summer 2014
24 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion
and footwear to jewellery and accessories
32 Street Style
Our pick of the best dressed at Paris
Fashion Week
n e Ws
34 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Paris
36 News
seasonal updates on shops, services
and new products
44 In Store
...with Vanessa Bonnefoux in the
much-loved Merci concept store
on boulevard Beaumarchais
Above: 1937 study of italian fashion designer elsa schiaparelli, refected in a mirror, wearing one of her own ensembles
p.60
The spirit of travel.
Download the Louis Vuitton pass app to reveal exclusive content.
Contents
16
globalblue.com
Gu i de75 Maps and guides to the key shopping
areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights
e SSe n t i a l S90 How To Shop Tax Free
the simple steps to saving money on your shopping
t r a nSl at iOnS95 Русский Перевод99 美文翻译
101 日本語翻訳
POStC a r d106 SHOP writes home about lanvin
Fashion WeeKs
& sTReeT sTYLe
Follow us online for the latest from europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show round-ups and insider shopping guides.
enGliSH | Р ус ский | 中文
the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Win monThLY
compeTiTions
We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.
DesTinaTion &
buYing guiDes
don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.
DaiLY shopping
neWs
We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.
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18 | PRODUC TS
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Check Out
TRAVEL IN STYLE
The stunning Limousine range by Moynat was launched at the beginning of the 20th century, when the frst Limousine trunks were designed with a special concave base to ft onto the roof of a car. A century later, the range is still made entirely by hand, produced by master craftsmen in Limoges. The work is so intricate that only one is created every month, each made to order to the specifc requests of the customer. Constructed in canvas, wood, brass
and sumptuous leather, every trunk is adapted to its owner, and each has its own special key. While every item is custom-built, each has the same exceptional quality in common, with many hours of craftsmanship and care going into the production of each one. Order in the Paris store and Moynat will deliver your trunk to you wherever you are in the world. hlMoynat Limousine cases, from €6,000,Moynat, 348 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 8390,moynat.com
* for map go to page 83
PARIS
275 RUE SAINT HONORE +33 1 42611770
2 AVENUE MONTAIGNE +33 1 42898345
PALAIS DES CONGRES +33 1 40682130
ESCADA.COM
20 | PRODUCTS
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OUR FavOURites: David Frossard and Philippe Di Méo
Liquides is the perfume concept bar created by
David Frossard of independent perfume label
Diférentes Latitudes and designer Philippe Di
Méo. Located in the Marais, this unusual store is
a perfect match for the neighbourhood and it has
quickly become the number one destination for
fragrance connoisseurs since it opened last spring.
Liquides carries a carefully curated selection of rare
perfumers from major perfume houses including
Odin and Byredo, all beautifully showcased on gold
shelves. Frossard and Di Méo give Dominique Fenn
their Paris recommendations
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SHOP | 21
1. ‘If you buy one thing in
Paris, we recommend a lemon
tart by Sébastien Gaudard’
Sébastien Gaudard,
22 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris,
+33 (0)1 7118 2470,
sebastiengaudard.fr
2. ‘René Talmon l’Armée
is a great jeweller’
René Talmon l’Armée,
3 rue Cunin Gridaine, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4887 1712,
renetalmonlarmee.com
5. ‘Acne is our favourite
store in Paris – apart from
Liquides, of course’
Acne,
3 rue Froissart, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4996 9691,
acnestudios.com
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3
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4. ‘We admire Maison
Martin Margiela for
its overall universe’
Maison Martin Margiela boots,
price on request,
Maison Martin Margiela,
23 rue de Montpensier,
75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4015 0644,
maisonmartinmargiela.com
3. ‘Our signature fragrance
is from the Liquides
Imaginaires collection:
Sancti Eau Bénite’
Sancti Eau Bénite, €160 for 100ml,
Liquides, 9 rue de Normandie,
75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 6694 7706,
liquidesimaginaires.com
22 | PRODUCTS
3. ‘My favourite item from my spring/summer collection is my white and blue coat with patchworks of silk and light wool – the frst look from the spring/summer 2014 fashion show’Christine Phung jacket, €1,400, Montaigne Market, 57 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4256 5858, christinephung.com
Christine Phung is an award-winning young fashion designer who lives and works in Paris. Already known for creating beautiful and delicate prints, Phung is a name on the rise. She studied fashion design at the École Duperré and the Institut Français de la Mode and began working with companies including Vanessa Bruno, Christophe Lemaire, Chloé and Veja before setting up her eponymous label. She is passionate about travelling and has a line of fair-trade Cambodian silk clothing. She shares her knowledge of Paris with Ximena Daneri christinephung.com
1. ‘I recommend a visit to Ladurée to try the caramel macaroons’Ladurée, 75 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4075 0875, laduree.com
My Favourites: Christine Phung
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
2. ‘Pierre Hardy is my favourite brand for shoes’Pierre Hardy shoes, €840, Pierre Hardy, 9-11 place du Palais Bourbon, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4555 0067,pierrehardy.com
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4. ‘My signature fragrance is Philosykos from Diptyque’Philosykos perfume, €65 for 50ml, Diptyque, 34 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris, +33 (0)1 4326 7744,diptyqueparis.fr
5. ‘I always carry my Moleskine sketchbook and a pencil in my handbag’Moleskine sketchbook, €13, Moleskine, 5 rue Saint-Merri, 75004 Paris, moleskine.com
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24 | PRODUCTS
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1. Bally loafers, price on request,
Bally, 60 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré,
75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 5898,
bally.com
2. Sandqvist Hans backpack, €169,
Royal Cheese, 22 rue Tiquetonne,
75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4221 3065,
sandqvist.net
5. Victorinox Spectra 26 luggage,
€395, Victorinox, 2 boulevard Raspail,
75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4544 5264,
victorinox.com
3. Frescobol Carioca swimming
trunks, €165, Le Bon Marché,
24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4439 8000,
frescobolcarioca.com
4. Triwa Stirling Lansen watch,
€175, Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré,
75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390,
triwa.com
1
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3RED SKY
For those with summer travels
in mind, red is a smart choice.
On trend and easy to spot, it’s
everywhere from beach shorts
to suitcases this season
SHOP | 25P
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€1,595, Burberry,
161-163 boulevard Saint-Germain,
75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 7076 1500,
burberry.com
8. Church’s wallets, from €75,
Church’s, 229 rue Saint-Honoré,
75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3460,
church-footwear.com
7. Ermenegildo Zegna bracelets,
€190 each, Ermenegildo Zegna,
50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré,
75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991,
zegna.com
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globalblue.com
26 | PRODUCTS
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1. Acne Rogue Paillette top, €500,
Acne, 1 quai Voltaire, 75007 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4260 5188, acnestudios.com
2. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €795,
Salvatore Ferragamo,
45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4723 3637, ferragamo.com
3. Jimmy Choo bag, price on
request, Jimmy Choo,
34 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4723 0339, jimmychoo.com
4. De Grisogono Black Bell ring,
€5,000, De Grisogono,
358 rue St Honoré, 75001 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4455 0440, degrisogono.com
5. Damiani butterfy earrings,
€16,190, Damiani, 2 place Vendôme,
75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4296 9551,
damiani.com
INDULGE IN IRIDESCENCE
More is more with Acne’s statement blouse.
Let it inspire you to be bold with your accessories too
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28 | PRODUCTS
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1. Bulgari handbag, €4,200, Bulgari,
40 avenue George V, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4952 9999, bulgari.com
2. Rosantica Orchidea & Carioca
necklace, €505, L’Eclaireur,
40 rue de Sévigné, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4887 1022, rosantica.com
3. Cos dress, €79, Cos,
3 rue de Grenelle, 75006 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4048 2850, cosstores.com
4. Miu Miu shoes, €490, Miu Miu,
219 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris,
+33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com
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CANDY CRUSH
Pastels are the story of the season. Combine soft,
sweetly hued shades to welcome the summer
30 | PRODUCTS
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1. Escada dress, €920, Escada, 2 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4289 8345, escada.com
2. Massimo Dutti hat, €135, Massimo Dutti, 18-20 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5376 8850, massimodutti.com
3. Louis Vuitton necklace, €4,500, Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com
4. Blumarine shoes, price on request, Blumarine, 56 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 3322, blumarine.com
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THE NEW NEUTRALS
Take monochrome to the next level with interesting print, texture and embellishment
32 | PRODUCTS
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Street
Style
Accessorising is an art
form for Paris Fashion
Week attendees and
this season bags were
in the limelight. From
intricately embellished
Dolce & Gabbana
handbags to a classic
YSL clutch, we pick
the best looks P
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SHOP | 33
34 | NEWS
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Shop Window
It is dedicated to ready-to-wear and accessories and spans four foors in an 18th-century mansion, chosen by Alaïa because it has no typical shop windows. There is, however, a garden with beautiful marble tables by Angelo Mangiarotti. Inside the boutique, the clothing sits comfortably amongst other design greats – Charlotte Perriand tables, rails by Martin Szekely and lamps from Marc Newson. A stunning, one-of-a-kind sculpture, created by Alaïa’s friend, artist Kris Ruhs, is made out of brushed aluminium fowers. This boutique is a must-see for visitors to Paris. dfAzzedine Alaïa, 5 rue de Marignan, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7672 9111, alaïa.fr
* for map go to page 81
AT HOME WITH ALAÏA
Azzedine Alaïa doesn’t play the fashion game. A private man, the Tunisian designer is known for eschewing fashion weeks, seasonal trends and the pressure to design a collection when the rest of the fashion industry says ‘Go!’ Alaïa is a true master of his craft and his ambition is to create timeless clothes that make women beautiful. He defned the aesthetic of Paris in the 1990s with his sculpting, body-con dresses, and now, two decades later, he has opened his frst boutique in as many years. True to the designer’s own character, the store has a discreet location and a minimalist feel.
SHOP | 35
36 | NEWS
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EASTERN PROMISE
Inspired by Chinese heritage
and Asian contemporary art,
Shang Xia is a collaboration
between designer Jiang
Qiong Er and Hermès. This
exquisite and refned collection
of furniture, homeware,
accessories and clothing
focuses on a balance between
MADE WITH LOVE
There’s something so
charming about the origins
of family company Loriblu
that it makes the brand’s
beautiful accessories even
more appealing. Founded
in the 1970s by Graziano
Cuccù, Loriblu had its humble
beginnings in the designer’s
basement, where he improvised
a leather beater from a broken
washing machine, working
alongside his mother and
brother. Today Loriblu is
known worldwide for stunning,
ultra-feminine designs – in
particular, its sparkling,
bejewelled sandals. Cuccù still
runs Loriblu and his standout,
SMYTHSON’S NEW SPACES
British luxury leather
specialist and stationer
extraordinaire Smythson
has recently joined Galeries
Lafayette in Paris with two
new retail spaces. On the
ground foor you’ll fnd
Smythson’s best-selling small
leather goods and stationery
for men, while on the frst
foor the brand’s colourful
women’s accessories are
available. Discover a wide
variety of handbags and
jewellery boxes alongside
accessories for travellers,
including diaries and
technology cases. mn
Galeries Lafayette,
40 boulevard Haussmann,
75009 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4282 3456,
smythson.com
showstopping pieces continue
to impress, time after time. You
can almost feel the love that
goes into every shoe. hl
Loriblu,
84 rue du Faubourg Saint-
Honoré, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4265 7343,
loriblu.com
* for map go to page 83
tradition and modernity.
The company recently
opened its frst store in Paris,
Shang Xia’s frst store outside
China. Found on the rue de
Sèvres, it ofers a luxurious
and rarefed perspective on
contemporary living. irs
Shang Xia,
8 rue de Sèvres,
75006 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4222 5362,
shang-xia.com
* for map go to page 86
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38 | N E WS
PERFECTLY PACKAGED
Sometimes the packaging of a luxury brand can evoke almost the same excitement as the product itself, particularly when the boxes are as sleek as those from French fashion house Givenchy. Creative director Riccardo Tisci recently collaborated with architect Joseph Dirand to create a new fagship inspired by the boxes originally used by the brand’s founder Hubert de Givenchy, which are still used to deliver the haute couture collection to clients today. Each room in the new store on avenue Montaigne refects the box design, with felt walls and solid oak foors, gold mirroring and polished steel. There are two foors entirely devoted to womenswear, connected by a round marble staircase. Spring/summer 2014 sees Tisci move away from his instantly identifable graphic prints to use draping in a multitude of ways, with many of the fnal looks covered in embroidery and light-catching sequins. What better to wrap up in a box and take home? dfGivenchy, 36 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4443 9990, givenchy.com
* for map go to page 81
PIAGET’S MYTHICAL JOURNEY
Inspired by some of the most famous journeys in history, such as those that followed the silk and spice routes, Piaget’s new Mythical Journey collection is as exotic as it is enchanting. The line, which draws extensively on Piaget’s decades of watchmaking expertise, allows the wearer to travel back in time to the days of the frst trade routes, from Asia to India. Made up of 32 timepieces, the Mythical Journey range embraces the mystery and romance surrounding the silk and spice routes and is bound to become a collector’s item. irsPiaget, 16 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3280, piaget.com
* for map go to page 85PH
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Clément Chabernaud photographié par Jamie Hawkesworth
Boutique en ligne : defursac.fr
112, rue de Richelieu - Paris IIè 34, avenue de l’Opéra - Paris IIè 146, boulevard Saint Germain - Paris VIè 95, avenue Victor Hugo - Paris XVIè
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann - Paris IXè Printemps Haussmann - Paris IXè
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40 | N E WS
SUPREME ELEGANCE
Cartier’s new two-storey Parisian fagship, the jeweller’s ninth boutique in the city, is aptly situated in the historic ninth arrondissement. Cartier was established in Paris in 1847 and is favoured by royalty around the world; the new boutique is situated at the top of boulevard des Capucines, close to the Opéra de Paris. Architect and designer Bruno Moinard has enhanced the historic features of the listed Haussmann building, preserving the original columns and incorporating gilded bronze guilloche railings, Italian Portoro marble and a stucco dome to create a supremely elegant experience for clients. The store ofers a vast array of Cartier goods, including jewellery, timepieces, eyewear, fragrance, leather goods and vintage and bridal ranges. glCartier, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 4601, cartier.com
* for map go to page 85
FENDI’S NEW FLAGSHIP
Fendi’s fagship Parisian store is now open on avenue Montaigne. The two-storey, 600-square-metre space is divided into opulent rooms furnished in bronze, marble, velvet and leather. Specially commissioned installations and sculptures create a breathtaking interior. Fendi’s iconic Baguette bags are displayed on 30,000 wall-mounted glossy bronze rods, while the central staircase spirals around a magnifcent, multi-coloured glass funnel. The boutique stocks the full spring/summer women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections. Fendi master artisans in the Made-To-Order salon can personalise the famous Peekaboo and Selleria handbags, while the Haute Fourrure salon provides clients with an opportunity to indulge in unique furs and accessories. A trip to this boutique is essential for any Fendi fan. glFendi, 51 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 8452, fendi.com
* for map go to page 81
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LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.
La Vallée Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages © La Vallée Village 2014 *the recommended retail price
La ValleeVillage.com
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Receive 50% off your Shopping Express® return ticket from Paris
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N E WS | 43
VIKTOR & ROLF’S NEW VISION
Renowned for their surrealist, avant-garde shows and creations, Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf have expressed their latest brand vision via the creation of a fagship store. The huge concept space juxtaposes modernist, cylindrical facades with neo-classical archways and pillars that form galleries which frame the apparel like works of art. The interior is reminiscent of scenes from 1920s sci-f movie Metropolis; all surfaces are completely covered in grey felt, an unusual, monochromatic colour scheme that works perfectly. The store houses womens and menswear, shoes, handbags, leather goods and fragrance. Haute couture is available, VIP service goes without saying and there will be special-edition products exclusive to the store. glViktor & Rolf, 370 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7377 5155, viktor-rolf.com
* for map go to page 83
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app
to help you to plan your trips. The app
gives information on 45 cities in 22
countries – thousands of stores are
listed and located on maps, with full
contact details and a description of
what each store sells. Our maps guide
you right to the store, step-by-step,
from your current location and can also
be downloaded for offine use. If you’re
looking for something specifc, or a
particular brand, use our search option
to locate it – you can even create your
own itinerary. The app is available in
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includes a Tax Refund Calculator to
tell you how much you’ll save on every
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country you visit. There are also
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Choice, our service that allows you
to pay in your home currency.
globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide
from the App Store or Play Store
PUCCI’S PARIS PALAZZO
Florentine fashion house Emilio Pucci has opened a two-storey boutique in the centre of Paris, joining a cluster of fellow Italian brands, including Salvatore Ferragamo and Fendi, on the prestigious avenue Montaigne. The store refects the brand’s striking palazzo concept, with glass façades that give passers-by ample opportunity to admire the impressive interior. Two 1940s Murano chandeliers emphasise the high ceiling and the marble foor in the entrance hall, while furnishings in brass, soft grey and purple velvet create a feeling of warmth. While away an afternoon exploring the diferent areas, which include a shoe salon, a private ftting lounge and a silk bar dedicated to Pucci’s renowned scarves. glEmilio Pucci, 46-48 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris,+33 (0)1 4720 0445, emiliopucci.com
* for map go to page 81
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In Store: Merci
44 | N E WS
store to get things ready for the opening. Bernard and Marie-France Cohen, who co-founded the store, also owned the luxury children’s brand Bonpoint at the time.
‘We sell an eclectic mix of design, fashion and lifestyle items, all chosen in line with the Merci aesthetic. The times have changed but we keep to the same rules: fnd the best products in each category, tell the truth and give the best to our customers.’Merci, 111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4277 0033, merci-merci.com
Entering Merci, which is housed in a former wallpaper factory, feels like entering someone’s home. Inside you’ll fnd a forist, a tearoom and a book store, as well as a wide selection of men’s and women’s fashion, home furnishings and jewellery. Over the years, the store has collaborated with many well-known designers to produce limited-edition collections, with the profts going to charity.
‘Merci has been open for roughly fve years now,’ says women’s buyer Vanessa Bonnefoux. ‘We opened on 5 March 2009. I still remember, the day before we opened, we all slept in the
Merci, a concept boutique in the Marais district, is much loved by locals and visitors alike. Ximena Daneri got to know the team and spoke to women’s buyer Vanessa Bonnefoux about working for one of the best stores in Paris
Above: from lef to right, women’s buyers Elysa Masliah, Vanessa Bonnefoux and Aya Iwata; men’s department director Marcel Lassance
SHOP | 45
SHOP | 47
Fashion takes a trip to far-fung lands this season. Clare Coulson
maps the journey
OUT OF AFRICA
The frst sign that fashion was about to take a trip to the wide blue horizon came long before the spring/summer 2014 shows; the exact moment came mid-way through Raf Simons’s autumn couture show for Christian Dior. The Belgian designer broke with his New Look silhouettes and elegant Parisian day dresses to throw some highly intricate rifs on tribal costumes – a shiny sheath in orange, cobalt blue, red and black was worn with a wide tribal collar, while sheer tulle dresses in an intricate mix of checks and stripes echoed the traditional cloth worn by the Masai people of Africa.
It didn’t take long for the mood to take hold; Stella Tennant accompanied Simons to the Guggenheim’s International Gala last autumn draped in a patchwork of silks and prints with an African favour. But before that the spring/summer collections were awash with sub-Saharan references; rich earthy colours, bold prints that seemed to reference the vibrant costumes of East Africa,
Opposite: Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2014/ 9995
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48 | FEATURES
Above (both images): Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2014
For many designers, the African influence is interwoven with a nod towards modernist art of the early 20th century
as well as drapery that clearly owed a debt
to the neat folds and pleats of ethnic costumes.
Quite how and why fashion moves to the
same beat of the (tribal) drum bemuses editors
and critics each and every season. But when
infuential and maverick designers including
Raf Simons, Sarah Burton at Alexander
McQueen, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and
Phoebe Philo at Céline all take a trip at the
same time, the force of the message is bound
to reverberate across fashion at all levels. It
was clear that all these designers had drawn
on centuries-old ethnic costumes, even if
none of them overtly acknowledged the
reference. For Phoebe Philo it was ‘about
a lot of power. Strength.’ She combined printed
tops with an African feel with wrapped, pleated
long skirts. Elsewhere she used vibrant prints
in wide brush strokes for draped and layered
looks and frayed printed scarves tied high up
the neck.
Riccardo Tisci may have credited Madame
Grès, the couturier famous for her exquisitely
draped jersey and silk gowns, as the inspiration
behind his spring/summer collection for
50 | FEATURES
Above (both images): Givenchy spring/summer 2014
Givenchy, but the show buzzed with
African infuence, from the ‘warrior masks’
painstakingly applied in crystal by Pat
McGrath to the draped jersey dresses in
an earthy palette of deep khaki, tobacco,
terracotta and burnt orange and the
perforated leather shawls.
‘The collection is a clash between two
cultures, Japanese and African,’ explained
Tisci. ‘I’ve been working with Madame Grès
pleats and drapes and colours that remind me
of Africa in a romantic way – but mixed with
Japanese elegance and fragility.’ It may be an
odd mix, but Tisci pulled of his culture clash
with fuid dresses topped with leather harness
straps. He even eschewed his usual sky-scraper
heels in favour of fat, chunky strapped sandals.
For many designers, the African infuence
is interwoven with a nod towards modernist
art of the early 20th century – an era in which
African culture was inspiring artists and
designers such as Picasso and Mondrian.
‘I didn’t want it to feel too referenced to
a period or a theme,’ said Sarah Burton after
her electrifying show for McQueen – but her
themes, deftly interwoven, were clear: tribal
costumes, graphic modernist art and, as
always, plenty of knowing nods to the house
heritage. Burton sculpted tribal breastplates
from crocodile skin, built skirts in intricate
cut-work geometrics and created amazing
dresses with layers of vibrant feathers. PH
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Above (both images): Moncler Gamme Rouge spring/summer 2014
This season’s adventure-inspired collections are the stuff of fashion dreams – and creative wanderlust come to life
If many of the season’s African infuences
were a very modern mash-up then Moncler’s
trip to the continent felt far more light and
literal – leopard, girafe, snake and leopard
topped or trimmed with exotic feathers and
contrasted with khaki separates and safari
jackets. Alexander McQueen once suggested
that his frst port of call when it came to
inspiration was the National Geographic
and his incredible archive of collections
rooted in myriad continents and cultures
is a rich illustration of that. For spring,
that spirit lives on, embraced by a new wave
of forward-thinking designers.
But the culture clash never looked more
wearable and real than when it was interpreted
by fashion’s romantics. The pompom-trimmed
tapestry-inspired tops at Dries Van Noten were
reminiscent of North African Berber rugs.
The exquisitely beautiful embroidered capes,
coats and dresses that opened the stunning
Valentino show had the same air of North
African adventure. It’s the stuf of fashion
dreams – and creative wanderlust come to life
54 | FEATURES
/ 10096 Above: Mariage Frères hand-blown glass teapot
From perfect porcelain to glamorous glassware, Paris’s artisans ofer beautifully crafted pieces for the table, says Stephen Doig
TOP TABLE
103
Paris is the home of exquisite craftsmanship; for proof, one need only peruse the jewellery stores of the opulent place Vendôme or the
elegant fashion emporiums of the rue de Rivoli. But pieces for the home are also fne examples of the French ability to apply taste and elegance to every facet of life, from what you drink from to how you pour it. Paris is home to a wealth of historical labels that turn the most mundane of activities – pouring a cup of tea – into a masterclass in chic.
A cup of tea is a simple pleasure, but at Mariage Frères it becomes a delightful
sensory experience. More than a simple tea emporium, Mariage Frères is an historical Paris institution devoted to tea-making and the crafting of beautiful teapots and cups; there’s even a whole online community based around sourcing Mariage Frères vintage designs for enthusiasts, which has become something of a luxury cult. Why? Aside from the level of craft that goes into the teapots – there are examples in wavy glass, in sunniest tangerine porcelain, in bright aqua – the label has a peerless history.
The Mariage family has been trading tea since around 1660, when Nicolas Mariage
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Above (from top): Mariage Frères tea shop; Mariage Frères brightly coloured cast iron teapot
made several voyages to the east. In the 1700s,
Jean-François Mariage of Lille continued
trading tea, spices and other imports, in turn
training his sons in the business. The Mariage
Frères tea company was founded in 1854.
Experimentation has always an integral
part of the Mariage Frères philosophy, which
applies the principles of gastronomy to tea
tasting. This was the frst brand to make
tea-favoured chocolate, tea jelly and tea
candles. Today, alongside the tea emporium
itself and the Mariage Frères tea salons, the
label also produces glazed porcelain and glass
teaware. The range is as diverse as the selection
of tea ofered by Mariage Frères and includes
oriental-inspired matcha tea bowls in platinum-
enamelled porcelain, ornate hand-blown glass
..
58 | FEATURES
Above (from lef): Lalique equestrian collection; Lalique Flying B mascot for Bentley
teapots, shocking pink cast iron teapots and
pots that evoke Fabergé-style grandeur in
lavish gold enamel.
In some centres of design, modernity and
the cutting edge act as hallmarks of excellence,
but in Paris, history remains integral. At the
other end of the spectrum from tea-time, when
it’s the hour for a glass of something stronger,
Parisian designers also have it covered. It was
in 1886 that René Lalique, a jewellery designer
and glass expert, founded his own business
focusing on expertly crafted crystal. Lalique
was a leading fgure in the art nouveau
movement in Paris and investing in a piece of
Lalique crystal for the dinner table is to buy a
link with artistic history. Lalique’s experiments
with glass-blowing techniques led to the
creation of a unique signature aesthetic, seen in
smoky glass decanter stoppers, in spiralling
tendrils, in the shapes of horses’ heads,
animal-based and natural motifs (key elements
of the art nouveau aesthetic), all incorporated
into glassware or designed as standalone
ornaments. The house also created the famous
Flying B mascot found on vintage Bentley cars.
The artisanal spirit of Paris is just as
prominent in the wide array of items that
Lalique produces, from glassware to
ornamental pieces and jewellery. But it’s the
crystal tableware pieces that perhaps remain
the heart of the brand, from elegant, traditional
stemmed futes to vivid crimson bowls and
From tea-time to cocktail hour, Paris’s leading artisans cater to every occasion
vases decorated with foliage motifs. Today
Lalique is owned by the charismatic Silvio
Denz, wine connoisseur and international
entrepreneur, who has made it his remit to
uphold the craftsmanship of Lalique while
pushing its design boundaries. ‘It was a natural
progression from collector to owner, I guess,’
he told Bentley magazine. ‘I loved what René
Lalique created and my plan is to use that
inspiration, how he created not just objects
but whole interiors, in a modern and innovative
way. We want to build Lalique into a global
lifestyle brand.’ From civilised, beautifully
decked tea tables to after-dark glamour over
cocktails, Paris’s leading artisans cater to
every occasion
mariagefreres.com,
lalique.com
60 | F E AT U R E S
Above: 1937 study of Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, refected in a mirror, wearing one of her own ensembles
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There’s nothing that excites the fashion world more than the appointment of a new creative director at a major house. Expectations run high and excitement rises to fever pitch as design lovers, retailers and press alike anticipate what is to come. Two notable and very diverse recent announcements promise great collections ahead and a buzzing spring season in the French capital. First came the news that quietly-spoken Italian Marco Zanini, the creative director who spearheaded the resurrection of Rochas, would be taking the helm at Schiaparelli and second, it was announced that fashion’s favourite avant-garde designer, Nicolas Ghesquière, would assume the creative direction of Louis Vuitton, following the departure of Marc Jacobs. Zanini and Ghesquière have wildly diferent aesthetics but they share a love of rigorous design and a desire to move forward the boundaries of beauty and taste.
The house of Schiaparelli, founded by Elsa Schiaparelli, which had lain dormant for decades, was purchased by Diego Della Valle’s Tod’s Group in the early noughties. Zanini will have a vivid history and impressive archive to immerse himself within. The Italian-born, Paris-dwelling designer Elsa Schiaparelli was one of the most infuential couturiers of the early 20th century and forged unique collaborative links with the era’s surrealist artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Alberto Giacometti. The highly educated Schiaparelli – known as Schiap – began her career by making her own outfts. Then came a small collection of knitwear. She soon became known for witty embellishments, sometimes created by master embroiderer François Lesage, on tailored suits, and surreal trompe l’oeil efects such as her lobster dress (1937), painted by Dalí. Schiap’s arresting, provocative designs shocked the status quo.
Two of Paris’s most prestigious houses welcome new creative directors this season. Harriet
Quick makes the introductions
ALL CHANGE
globalblue.com
62 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top lef): Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali, 1949; Marco Zanini, newly appointed creative director at Schiaparelli; Elsa Schiaparelli Shocking perfume
Ghesquière and Zanini will no doubt achieve new heights in their new positions; fashion is about the power of re-invention
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Her perfume, encased in fuchsia pink, was
named Shocking.
Zanini’s appointment is timely.
Schiaparelli’s work has garnered a new
generation of fans following the New
York Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2012
exhibition Impossible Conversations, created
in collaboration with Miuccia Prada, an ardent
admirer of Schiap’s work. During his tenure
at Rochas, Zanini similarly inspired emotion
and challenged taste with his love of ofbeat
colourways and extraordinary fabrics. As an
Italian, he humbly says that he has ‘a special
afnity for the house.’
For Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton,
the task is to take the powerhouse brand,
founded as a trunk-maker in Paris in the
late 19th century, to new levels. Marc Jacobs
injected the house with wit, elegance and style
and created ready-to-wear collections for the
frst time. The Paris Louis Vuitton shows,
grand and imaginatively theatrical (carousels,
escalators, train stations all featured in the
immaculately conceived sets) became the
toast of fashion week, while the accessories
featuring the house’s Damier check canvas PH
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Above (clockwise from top lef): Louis Vuiton spring/summer 2014 catwalk presentation; Nicolas Ghesquière, newly appointed creative director at Louis Vuiton; Elsa Schiaparelli lobster dress painted by Salvador Dalí, 1937
became status symbols across the globe.
Louis Vuitton shops have opened up in the
furthest reaches of the world, including
Ulan Bator, capital of Mongolia. Travel is in
the DNA of Louis Vuitton and that can be
interpreted both imaginatively and literally.
Ghesquière, a designer who brilliantly
resurrected the house of Balenciaga, will no
doubt work his magic on Louis Vuitton, re-
energising its allure for the future. Fashion,
after all, is about the power of re-invention
schiaparelli.com, louisvuitton.com
globalblue.com
64 | EXPER IENCE
Raising
the BaRParis’s clandestine cocktail bars
emulate speakeasy style with hidden
entrances, creative concoctions
and expert bartenders. Verity Hogan
ventures of the beaten track to
uncover some of the city’s best-
kept secrets
Hidden behind unmarked doors, in the back
rooms of restaurants and tucked into corners of
the city’s up-and-coming districts, Paris’s fnest
cocktail bars share a clandestine air. recent
openings take inspiration from the 1920s, when
the city’s drinking dens were frequented by a
lively group of literary luminaries and high-
society expats.
after falling out of fashion during the
1950s, Paris’s cocktail scene is enjoying a surge
in popularity and attracting some of the city’s
most discerning drinkers. The venues most
in demand are those that combine talented
bartenders with an unusual mix of ingredients
and individual décor that gives them an edge
over the competition. The most successful have
reinvented the speakeasy with style, breathing
new life into this classic concept, and are well
worth taking the time to seek out.
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B a r l e C o q
With an interior infused
with 1970s glamour and a
menu that retrieves forgotten
French spirits from the
archives, every aspect of Bar
le Coq exudes retro-chic.
The cocktail selection has
a Parisian edge and favours
French ingredients, while
the soundtrack is an eclectic
mix, ranging from afro
funk and jazz to the sultry
tones of Serge Gainsbourg
and Grace Jones. Be sure to
try the bar’s fresh take on
a classic kir royale; taking
inspiration from Paris’s
famed pâtisserie, the cocktail
combines Champagne with a
home-made ambrette cordial
that mimics the favour of a
freshly baked butter croissant.
Bar le Coq,
12 rue du Château d’eau,
75010 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4240 8568,
barlecoq.comPH
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66 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
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With a laidback ambience and quirky décor,
Little Red door combines its speakeasy
style with a remarkably inventive cocktail
selection. Visitors who place their trust in the
knowledgeable bar team are rewarded with a
C a n d e L a R i a
at frst glance, Candelaria appears to be
a typical Mexican taqueria, serving a menu
of tacos, quesadillas and tostadas. Venture
past the dining room, however, and you
will soon discover the back-room bar hidden
behind an unmarked door. this intimate
concoction wholly tailored to their individual
tastes. the bar is as unique as the drinks
served. its vintage aesthetic is enhanced with
exposed brickwork and antique glassware,
while a miniature, purely decorative, red door
provides a focal point.
Little Red Door, 60 rue Charlot, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4271 1932, lrdparis.com
bar feels like a private hideaway with its
cave-like proportions, roughly hewn walls
and cushioned seating, all lit by candlelight.
the cocktail menu has a bolder tone; taking
inspiration from Central america, most mixes
are based on tequila with added spice.
Candelaria,
52 rue de saintonge, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)9 8072 9883, candelariaparis.com
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globalblue.com
L e M a R y C e L e s t e
Le Mary Celeste ofers a refreshing contrast
to the dimly lit basement bars currently
dominating the city’s cocktail scene. a bright,
airy space in the heart of the Marais district,
the bar features large windows and a stripped-
back interior where all activity revolves
around the vast central bar. the atmosphere
is relaxed and informal while the drinks range
is impressively vast, with Brooklyn lager
available on tap. Be sure to explore the oyster
selection; each variety is labelled by origin
and has a distinctive taste, regardless of size.
Le Mary Celeste,
1 rue Commines, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)9 8072 9883, lemaryceleste.com
globalblue.com
The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
Stay in Style
68 | E X PE R I E NCE
The Thief
Art lovers will fnd much to engage their senses at the eclectic Thief hotel. Set in one of Oslo’s most creative districts, the hotel is close to the city’s fnest restaurants, bars and art galleries, while also ofering its own impressive collection of contemporary art. Curated by Sune Nordgren, this includes pieces from Norwegian
and international artists and can be admired throughout the hotel. Modern designer furnishings and pop art inspired décor add to the rooms’ appeal, while the on-site restaurant, Fru K, uses fresh Norwegian produce to impressive efect.The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com
globalblue.com
E X PE R I E NCE | 69
elegant boulevards has long attracted a highly distinguished clientele, including leading personalities from a number of felds. The hotel’s high standards of service are unrivalled, while the diferent décor in each of its rooms gives the hotel unique charm.Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski,Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2125 2799, kempinski.com
Hotel Vier JaHreSzeiten KempinSKi
Built at the request of King Maximilian II, the prestigious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski has been welcoming guests since 1858. Its location on one of the world’s most
globalblue.com
70 | E X PE R I E NCE
Casa Fuster
Located in one of Barcelona’s most sought-after areas, Casa Fuster refects its prestigious setting with an opulent art deco façade and luxurious interior. Attention to detail is evident throughout; each of the hotel’s 105 rooms features a calming colour scheme with modernist style accents. The hotel’s public
areas are also worthy of note; its bar, Café Vienés, has long been frequented by artists and intellectuals and has now been restored to its former glory with distinctive columns, rich upholstery and a menu of high-quality cocktails.Casa Fuster, Passeig de Gràcia 132, 08008 Barcelona, +34 93 255 3000, hotelescenter.es/casafuster
Fleming’s Hotel
municH-scHwabing
Fleming’s Hotel is set in Munich’s lively artistic quarter – one of the most desirable districts in the city. The hotel’s ideal location is complemented by a minimalist, modern décor with rooms featuring cream and fresh green
walls and wenge headboards with embedded lights. Every room is also fully equipped with an array of amenities, including a fatscreen television and complimentary WLAN access. After a long day’s sightseeing take advantage of the hotel’s sauna and steam bath to unwind.Fleming’s Hotel Munich-Schwabing,Leopoldstrasse 130-132, 80804 Munich, +49 (0)89 206 0900, femings-hotels.com
PH
OT
O: E
la
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An exclusive fragrance dedicated to the new Guerlain Boutique in Versailles.
An experience within La Cour des Senteurs,
the new luxury venue 100 meters away from the Palace.
globalblue.com
72 | E X PE R I E NCE
of its 69 bedrooms and suites features bespoke furnishings and luxurious fabrics designed by Nina Campbell, while extras include a complimentary daily newspaper. Don’t miss the hotel’s traditional afternoon tea – often described as the best in London.The Goring, Beeston Place, London SW1W 0JW, +44 (0)20 7396 9000, thegoring.com
The GorinG
A quintessentially English establishment, The Goring has been welcoming international royalty, dignitaries and other luminaries for over 100 years. The hotel opened in 1910 and is one of London’s oldest family-run hotels, enjoying enduring popularity thanks to its Belgravia location and quietly elegant interior décor. Each
HACKETT.COM/FR
37 BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES – 58 RUE DE RENNESHa
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GUIDE | 75
Guide
globalblue.com
ILL
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TR
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ION
: LY
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ON
HAY
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Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most
comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Paris with
useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more
detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/paris or pick up one of our bespoke
shopping maps from your concierge.
Place Of Interest Metro HotelTrain Station
76 | GUIDE
Paris
AVENUE FOCH
BD. MALESHERBES
AV. HOCHE
AV
EN
UE
BO
SQ
UE
T
AVENUE DE L
A MOTTE-PIC
QUET
AV
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QUAI BRANLY
AV
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D’IÉ
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AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÈES
BOULE VARD DE COURCELLES
AVENUE DE FRIEDLAND
QUAI ANATOLE FRANCE
RUE DE RIVOLI
VOIE GEORGES POMPIDOU
BOU
LEVARD S AINT- GERMAIN
AV. D
E B
RET
EUIL
GARE SAINT-LAZARE
RENNES
ÉCOLE MILITAIRE
BIR-HAKEIM
ALMA-MARCEAU
CHARLES DE GAULLE -ÉTOILE
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
RUE DU BAC
SOLFÉRINO
ASSEMBLÉE NATIONALE
INVALIDES
LA TOUR-MAUBOURG
SAINT-FRANÇOIS-XAVIER
VARENNE
IÉNA
KLÉBER
BOISSIÈRE
GEORGE V
CONCORDE
TUILERIES
MIROMESNIL
SAINT-PHILIPPE- DU-ROULE
CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES -CLEMENCEAU
MADELEINE
SAINT- AUGUSTIN
ARC DE TRIOMPHE
PLACE DES TERNES
EIFFEL TOWER
LE GRAND PALAIS
LES INVALIDES
LE MUSÉE D'ORSAY
LA CONCORDE
LA MADELEINE
OPÉRA GARNIER
LA TOURMONTPARNASSE
Le Bristol
Castille
UME Refund Point
UME Refund Point
UME Refund Point
Hyat Regency
P.81
P.80
P.83
P.83
P.84
P.87
Global Blue Refund Point
SHOP | 77
BOULEVARD VOLTAIRE
RUE RÉAUMUR
BO
ULEVA
RD
DE M
AGEN
TA
AVENUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE
BLVD. DE LA VILLETTE
BOULEVARD DE LA CHAPELLE
VOIE GEORGES POMPIDOU
RUE LA FAYETTE
BO
ULEVAR
D B
EAU
MA
RC
HA
IS
BD. HENRI IV
RUE LA FAYETTE
RUE DE MAUBEUGEGARE DU NORD
CITÉ
HOTEL DE VILLE
TEMPLE
GONCOURT
SAINT-SULPICE
SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS
LOUVRE -RIVOLI
PONT NEUF CHÂTELET
LES HALLES
PYRAMIDES
QUATRE -SEPTEMBRE
BOURSE
SENTIER
RÉAUMUR -SÉBASTOPOL
STRASBOURG -SAINT-DENIS
JACQUES BONSERGENT
CHÂTEAU D'EAU
GARE DE L'EST
POISSONNIÈRE
CADETLE PELETIER
NOTRE-DAME-DE-LORETTE
TRINITÉ - D'ESTIENNED'ORVES
CHAUSSÉE D'ANTIN - LAFAYETTE
BONNE NOUVELLE
GRANDSBOULEVARDS
RICHELIEU - DROUOT
PALAIS ROYAL MUSÉE
DU LOUVRE
OPÉRA GARNIER
BLANCHE
SAINT-GEORGES
SAINT-MICHEL
MABILLON
ODEON
CLUNY - LASORBONNE
MAUBERT - MUTUALITÉ
HÔTEL DE VILLE
PONT MARIE
SAINT-PAUL
ÉTIENNE MARCEL
TEMPLE
RÉPUBLIQUE
ARTS ET MÉTIERS
RAMBUTEAU
GONCOURT
MOULIN ROUGE
MUSÉE DU LOUVRE
NOTRE DAME DE PARIS
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE
RÉPUBLIQUE
Galeries Lafayete
CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
78 | GUIDE
SNAPSHOTS
OF A CITY
‘In Paris, the allure of Coco Chanel is felt
everywhere’ - Ximena Daneri, SHOP’s
assistant fashion and market editor
PH
OTO
S: @
XD
AN
ERI
globalblue.com
SHOP | 79
Follow our team’s travels on
Instagram @globalblue. Tag us
in your pictures when sharing
them and you might see them
in print!
80 | GUIDE
Metro
Avenue des Champs-Elysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er
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ARMANI COLLEZIONI ●
SONY ●
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● LINEA
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● H
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● C
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Global Blue Refund Point
SHOP | 81
Avenue des Champs-Elysées East, Rue François 1er, Rue Marbeuf & Avenue Montaigne
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CIFONELLI ●NICOLAS ●LA MAISON RÊVE ● KITON ● ARTIOLI ● SIRECCI ● GALLO ●
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● BRUCE FIELD
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● COURREGES
● TORREGIANI
● TEDDY’S
● ZIMMERLI
CANALI ●
GUY LAROCHE ●
CORNELIANI ●
● FIRST OPTIC
● ALAIN FIGARET
● OLIVER GRANT
LA MAISON
● DE LA TRUFFE
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● CRIMSON
● HARTWOOD
● FRANCK NAMANI● VILEBREQUIN
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BONPOINT ●
AKRIS ●
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ●
VERSACE ●
● GUCCI● ST DUPONT
● BLUMARINE● JIL SANDER
● DOLCE & GABBANA
● RALPH LAUREN● BARBARA BUI
● LOEWE● CHLOÉ
● CHANEL
● ERES● REVILLON
● EMILIO PUCCI ● GIVENCHY
JIMMY ● CHOO
● CARON
● CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE
● LOUIS VUITTON
● GIORGIO ARMANI
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● BOTTEGA VENETA
● CESARE PACIOTTI
● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA
● LORO PIANA
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● DINH VAN
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●
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P.34
P.43
P.38
P.40
SHOP Recommendation Featured In This IssuePlace Of Interest
82 | GUIDE
Wempe
The diverse, high-quality range of
timepieces and jewellery on ofer at Wempe
has helped the company become one
of Germany’s most prestigious brands.
The label was established in 1878 and since
then has cultivated a select collection of
exquisite timepieces and standout jewellery.
every piece is designed to be individual
and makes use of the fnest materials, such
as diamonds, pearls and coloured gemstones,
while the store’s own timepiece collection
is complemented by a range of watches
by leading international brands, including
Cartier, Breitling, Rolex, Longines and
Vacheron Constantin.
Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 paris,
+33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com
for map go to page 84
SToRie
As the name suggests, Storie specialises
in distinctive objects that have their own
story to tell, and the boutique favours
products made by independent designers
over mass-produced items. The resulting
range is delightfully eclectic and universally
high-quality, ofering everything from
patterned cushions and light-bulb shaped
vases to pewter picture frames. expect
to fnd jewellery by Louise Vurpas,
accessories by Veja, Suzani cushions and
scarves by textile artist Beshlie mcKelvie
among the store’s myriad temptations.
Storie, 20 rue Delambre, 75014 paris,
+33 (0)1 8356 0198,
storieblog.com
globalblue.com
SHOP | 83
Rue Saint-Honoré West
Rue Saint-Honoré East
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ RUE DU FAUBOURG SA INT-HONORÉ
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19
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● D
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NO
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CH
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BL
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●
CA
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L ●
NU
●
METAL FLAQUE ●
BRUCE FIELD ●
Place AndréMalraux
FREYWILLE ●ZADIG &
VOLTAIRE ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
AUDIO ● TECHNICA
● KRIS VAN ASSCHE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
P.36
P.106
P.43
P.18
Featured In This Issue
84 | GUIDE
Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale
RU
D E
’AN
UJO
RU
E G
OD
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RU
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MA
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RU
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T
RU
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RO
NC
HE
T
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT- HONORÉ RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
RUE AUBER
BOU
LEVARD DE L
A MADELEIN
E
Place de laMadeleine
RU
E R
OY
AL
E
BOU
LEVARD M
ALESH
ERBES
BOULEVARD HAUSSMANNZ
AR
A HO
ME ●
LIPAU
LT ●
LA MA
ISON
DU
CHO
COLAT ●ZW
ILLING ●
BCBGM
AX
AZRIA ●
FRA
NCO
IS
● PIN
ET
● J.M
. WESTO
N
● H
EYR
AUD
● M
AN
DA
RINA D
UCK
● A
RCHE
● V
ENTILO
● C&
A
● D
ECATHLO
N
● KENZO
● MAISON DE FAMILLE
● TRUSSARDI
MA
RG
AR
ET
HO
WE
LL
●
MA
ILL
E ●
MA
SS
IMO
DU
TT
I ●
RA
LP
H L
AU
RE
N ●
● FAUCHON
● SEPHORA
● ALAIN FIGARET
● MARELLA
● GAP
● MASSIMO DUTTI
● CAFE COTON● EKYOG● LA MAROQUINERIE PARISIENNE
● NATALYS● BONNIE DOON● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX● WINONA● EMA PIAZI● CHASSAGNARD
● GANTS HELION
● CAROLL
● JB GUANTI
● THE KOOPLES
● LA CARPE
● LA BAGAGERIE
● CHRISTINE LAURE
● SALAMANDER
● PRONOVIAS
● MADURA
● FAIRMOUNT
● CAREL
● PIERRE CUVEX
GERARD ● DAREL● PINEL & PINEL
● THE KOOPLES
● MARINA RINALDI
● VERTU
● WEMPE
● POIRAY
● LACHAUME
● CORINA
● ROYAL QUARTZ
● MILLIAUD
● O.J PERRIN
● HAVILAND / DAUM
● ARTHUS BERTRAND
GUERLAIN ●
UN JOUR AILLEURS ●
DJULA ●
DEVERNOIS ●
MARIONNAUD ●
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●
EXCLUSIF ●NESPRESSO ●
SABOR ●
PRINCESSE TAM-TAM ●RODIER ●
CHARLES COTONAY ●EMLING ●
AUBADE ●
ETAM LINGERIE ●CARETTA ●
ARTHUR ●
OLIVER GRANT ●
JACADI ●
DIELETH ●
CATIMINI ●
BRITISH STOCK ●
OBREY ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
SAINT JAMES ●
CORALIE ●
NICOLAS ● ● ERES
● SWAROVSKI
● FAUCHON
A. TESTONI ●HEURGON ●
BONPOINT ●ST LOUIS ●
BERNARDAUD ●CRISTAL LALIQUE ●
CHRISTOFLE ●J.L COQUET ●
CHANEL ●APC ●
GUCCI ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ●GUCCI ●
LE JARDIN
D’ULYSSE ●
● BURBERRY
CROCKETT AND JONES ●
● OLIVER GRANT
● BRUCE FIELD MADELEINE
● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS
LOUIS PION ●
ODIOT ●
LOXWOOD ●
GUY DEGRENNE ●
LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE ●
OFFICINA SLOWEAR ●
ESCALES ●
CERRUTI ●
DIOR ●
BELL & ROSS ●
MANFIELD ●
ALAIN MARTINIERE ●
NAPAPIJRI ●ESCALES ●
EMLING ●
BOSE ●
● BACCARAT
SAMSUNG ●
● HEDIARD
● MAISON DE LA TRUFFE
● CAVIAR KASPIA
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
RU
E B
OIS
SY
D'A
NG
LA
S
NINE WEST ●
JEAN VIER ●
ALESSI ●
LAGUIOLE ●
MAJE ●
JOHN LOBB ●
● SIA
● EPISODE
● YVES DELORME
● THE KOOPLES
● GUY DEGRENNE
● AGATHA
● ANNE FONTAINE
● ERIC BOMPARD
● BRIC’S
PAUL &● JOE SISTER
● HERMÈS
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro
P.82
SHOP Recommendation
SHOP | 85
Boulevard des Capucines& Rue Scribe
Place Vendôme& Rue de la Paix
RU
E V
OL
NE
Y
RUE DAUNOU
RU
E S
CR
IBE
R
UE
DE
LA
PA
IX
RUE AUBER
B
OU
LE
VA
RD
DE
S C
AP
UC
INE
SPlace Opéra
ZARA ●BA G BYAP ●
GUESS ●
LANCEL ●
● BENETTON
● ERIC BOMPARD
GOLFINO ●
PHILIPPE FERRANDIS ●
● HABITAT● AIGLE
● BASLER PRINCESSE
● TAM.TAM
● CALIDA
● IKKS
● OMEGA
● BALLY
● MC GREGOR
● WESTON● LACOSTE
● HACKETT● MANFIELD
● GANT
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●
CAFE DE LA PAIX ●
KIWI ●
DESIGUAL ●
GAP ●
MAJE ●
MATY ●
EDEN PARK ●
TAG HEUER ●
CARTIER ●
BUCHERER ●
RU
E D
E L
A P
AIX
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
BO
ULE
VA
RD
DE
S C
AP
UC
INE
S
RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
Place Opéra
CHOPARD ●
FRED ●
OMEGA ●
ROLEX ●
Le Ritz
DUBAIL ●
PlaceVendôme
JAEGER LE-COULTRE ●
● GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI
● RICHARD MILLE ● ST CHARLES● DAMIANI ● GUERLAIN
CARTIER ●
● CHRISTOFLE
● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT● REPETTO
● NOBLESSE DE NAPLES● ZIMMERLI
● MASSIMO DUTTI
● LERY● DINH VAN● STARK & SONS● BURMA● BREUER● KORLOFF● FOLLI FOLLIE● BREITLING● ANSHINDO● JAQUET DROZ● TIFFANY & CO.● HARRY WINSTON● DAUM
VACHERON ● CONSTANTIN
● JAIME MASCARO● BENETTON
MENARD ●ALAIN
FIGARET ●WASKOLL ●
A.LANGE & SHONE ●VAN LAACK ●
GAREL ●COMPTOIR DES
COTONNIERS ●BACCARAT ●
ALFRED DUNHILL ●
IWC ●
GARLAND ●
CARTIER ●
MELLERIO ●
HERZO ●
MONTBLANC ●
OFFICINE PANERAI ●PARK HYATT●
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ●
AMIN KADER ●
BULGARI ● ● CHARVET● MONTALE
● BOUCHERON
● VAN CLEEF &
ARPELS
● BLANCPAIN
● MAUBOUSSIN● CHANEL● PIAGET● SWATCH● CHAUMET● HUBLOT
PATEK● PHILIPPE
● MIKIMOTO
● DIOR
● REPOSSI● B
REGUET
LOUIS V
UITTON ●
Hotel
Bucherer
One of the leaders in the Swiss watch
and jewellery sector and a company that
has become synonymous with quality,
Bucherer has a prestigious reputation.
The company was established by carl-
Friedrich Bucherer in 1888 and is still
family-run today, resulting in a collection
that is steeped in tradition and a team
of staf who are experts in their feld.
The collection includes almost 50,000
diferent items. Pearl and gemstone
creations, designed and handcrafted
in Bucherer’s own workshops, are ofered
alongside the fnest timepieces by rolex,
cartier, Omega and chopard.
Bucherer,
12 boulevard des capucines, 75009 Paris,
+33 (0)1 7099 1888,
bucherer.com
P.40
P.36
Featured In This Issue
86 | GUIDE
Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle
R
UE
VIE
UX
CO
LO
MB
IER
RU
E S
AIN
T S
UL
PIC
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RUE D
U D
RAG
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RU
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HE
RC
HE
-MID
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RUE DES SAINTS PÈRES
BOULEVARD R ASPAIL
SÈVRES - BABYLONE
RUE DE G
RENELLE
RU
E D
E S
ÈV
RE
S
RUE BONAPARTE
RUE BONAPARTE
BO
UL
EV
AR
D S
AIN
T-GE
RM
AIN
SAINT-GERMAINDES-PRÉS
MABILLON
RU
E D
U F
OU
R
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
SAINT-SULPICE
● BURBERRY
● LODING ● DARON
● NANIE● AIGLE
● JUST CAMPAGNE
SAIN
T
● LAU
RENT
● PA
RA
BOO
T
● N
ULLE PA
RT AILLEU
RS
● A
LEXIS M
ABILLE
● M
AISO
N M
ARTIN
MA
RGIELA
● CA
RVEN
● G
RENELLE
● ELISA
BETTA FRA
NCH
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● 45' A
I IND
IGO
● PRIN
CESSE TAM
.TAM
● L.K
. BENN
ETT
EMM
AN
UELLE
● ZY
SMA
N
● K
ABU
KI
● W
ICKET
SALVATO
RE
FERRAG
AM
O ●
CHA
RLES KA
MM
ER ●
CÉLINE ●
CHACO
K ●
CARM
EN STEFFEN
S ●
MO
SS ●
SURFACE TO
AIR
●
SERGIO
ROSSI ●
JEAN
-BAPTISTE R
AUTU
REAU ●
IRIS ●
STUA
RT WEITZM
AN
●
PAUL SM
ITH ●
FIFI ●
CHRISTIA
N
LOU
BOU
TIN ●
SAIN
T HO
NO
RE MA
RKET
●
ICB ●
● ELEVEN PARIS● DARMON● LES PETITES● AN’GE● CAREL
● HEYRAUD● LA POINTURE● COSMO● KINZA● PATRICK GERARD● KOOKAÏ● LA CENTRALE● SILK & CASHMERE● BEL AIR● PETIT BATEAU● MANDARINA DUCK
● J
OSEPH
ARTS E
TBIJ
OU
X ●
● MAX MARA
● TRUSSARDI
● LA BAGAGERIE7 FOR ALL ● MANKIND
PAUL &● JOE SISTER● HOTEL PARTICULIER● REPETTO● PATAUGAS
● SWATCH
● MANFIELD
● EQUIPAGGIAMENTI
● HOUR PASSION● LOSCO ● FREY WILLE● CAFÉ COTON
● OLIVER GRANT
● JET SET
● MARISA
● DERBY● PARALLELE● MAC DOUGLAS
● MAJE● PISCINE
● HERMÈS
KERRY MARA ●SANDRO ●
HESCHUNG ●FATHER
& SONG ●HESCHUNG ●
SUNDEK ●ARTHUR & FOX ●
AUBADE ●CALIEVA ●
MARIONNAUD ●
● ANDRÉ● VICTOIRE HOMME
● EMLING● MARCEL LASSANCE
● OLIVER GRANT● LONGCHAMP
● CLAUDIE PIERLOT
● COSMO PARIS ● POIRAY● CAMPER
POM D’API ●FREELANCE ●
DIAMANTISSIMO ●GUESS ●
IKKS ●ALAMBRIC ●
GAP ●DESCAMPS ●LAMARTHE ●
MAJE ●ET VOUS ●
UGG ●SUGAR ●VENISE ●
MANOUSH ●
APRIATI ●MARINA RINALDI ●
LARIO ●
O’FASHION ●GUESS ●
KIPLING ●B’ROOM
GRAFITTI ●PRINCESSETAM.TAM ●
DURANCE ●
BOBBI BROWN ●
PABLO ●GERARDDAREL ●
OMEGA ●
BERLUTTI ●
ALAIN FIGARET ●CYRILLUS ●
LE TANNEUR ●BIBA ●
SUD EXPRESS ●
COP COPINE ●SINEQUANONE ●TARA JARMON ●
BOOT SHOP ●
CANDYROCKETS ●
TEENFLO ●
BIJOUTERIE PELLEGRIN ●
COMPTOIR DE FAMILLE ●
CARVEN ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ●
SERGE BLANCO ●
LOLA ●
CHRISTIAN LACROIX ●
THEA SO SWEET ●
SAINT LAURENT ●
ANNICK GOUTAL ●
SEQUOIA ●NILAÏ ●
AUBADE ●AGNÈS B ●AXARA ●
MARIONNAUD ●
AMERICANRETRO ●
AGNES & HOMME ●
● THE KOOPLESHERVE
● CHAPELIERZADIG &
● VOLTAIRE● VILEBREQUIN
AU VIEUX CAMPEUR: 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ●MAXIMILIEN ●
CAROLL ●
TIMBERLAND ●CORIOLAN ●
CHEVIGNON ●
FAÇONNABLE ●GERARD DAREL ●SHU UEMURA ●
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●MURAT ●
MAUBOUSSIN ●LIU JO ●
EMPORIO● ARMANI
● FRANCIS KLEIN
● CARON PARIS
● ARTHUR & FOX
● TAG HEUER● THE KOOPLES
● STEFAN GREEN● BERLUTI
● RALPH LAUREN● SONIA RYKIEL
● ETRO● ALEXANDRA SOJFER● EDWARD GREEN● SAVE THE QUEEN● LOEWE GALERIE
TED● BAKER
● SHADE● BARBARA BUI
● VENTILO
TOD’S ●
SHANG XIA ● ● MARITHÉ FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD
● MAJE STOCK
SANDROTHIBAULT ●
MONDERER ●
ARTHUS BERTRAND ●LOUIS VUITTON ●
Le Bon Marché
LA HUNE
● A COTÉ
● JENISA
● JANE PHILIP
Brasserie Lipp
KA
RL
LA
GE
RF
EL
D ●
VIG
NE
S ●
BOSS ●
● NAPAPIJRI
SPRINT ●
Department Store
Metro
Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestNon-Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
P.36
Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 87
Rue des Saints-Pères & Rue de Rennes
Aurélie BidermAnn
Parisian jewellery designer Aurélie Bidermann takes inspiration from her extensive international adventures, producing pieces that are emotive, creative and distinctive. every item is handmade by the city’s fnest craftsmen; Bidermann is known for challenging convention by combining typical materials with more experimental items such as tactile, gold-dipped feathers and ears of wheat. Aurélie Bidermann, 55 bis rue des Saints-Pères, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 4314, aureliebidermann.com
RU
E VIE
UX
CO
LOM
BIE
R
RU
E S
AIN
T S
UL
PIC
E
RUE D
U D
RA
GO
NRUE DES SAINTS PÈRES
RUE DE G
RENELLE
RU
E D
U F
OU
R
SAINT-SULPICE
BO
UL
EV
AR
D S
AIN
T-GE
RM
AIN
SAINT-GERMAINDES-PRÉS
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
RUE BONAPARTE
RUE BONAPARTE
EMPORIO
ARM
ANI ●
MONOPRIX
●
STEFANEL ●
LOFT DESIG
N BY●
ROLEX ●
HACKETT LONDON ●
EL GANSO ●
KENZO ●
GAP KID
S ●
JO MALONE ●
GAP●
YSL ●
SPORT MAX ●
ALAIN M
IKLI ●
CREED 1760 ●
MAC ●
L.BARRIE
R ●
MEPHIS
TO ●
BASH ●
ETRO ●
PÉPÉ ●
STONE PARIS
●
ESTHER VIN
A 1950 ●
PAUL & JOE H
OMM
E ●
PAUL & JOE F
EMM
E ●
MORGANNE B
ELLO ●
IRO ●
BABY BUDDHA ●
SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO ●
WOLFORD ●
SAINT JAM
ES ●
MADURA ●
YVES ROCHER ●
JONAK ●
ANDRÉ ●
ETAM L
INGERIE
●
VANE - B ●
LE 78 ●
ELISABETH S
TUART ●
RUDY’S ●
ROBERTO DURVIL
LE ●
TBS ●
● CARTIER● DEVERNOIS
● LANCEL● ZARA
● MONTBLANC● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS
● ESTEBAN● J.M. WESTON
● ORESSENCE● TOURNAIRE
● NAPAPIJRI● ICE WATCH
● JB GUANTI● THE KOOPLES
● BO CONCEPT● WEEKEND MAX MARA
CREATION D'ICI ● ET D'AILLEURS
● LEONIDAS
● FOSSIL
● ARTHUR
● BRANDY MELVILLE
● GEOX
● HENRY PHILIPPE●
PRADA
● E
LA STONE
● S
ANDRO
● R
B
● A
NNE FONTAINE
DIANE V
ON
● F
URSTENBERG
● M
AUD FRIZ
ON
● H
ARTFORD
● D
JULA
● S
ONIA R
YKIEL
● L
OUISE D
ELLA
● S
ERVAN GAXOTTE
● A
URÉLIE B
IDERM
ANN
● Z
EF
● C
HEMIN
S BLANCS
JEAN CHARLES
● D
E CASTELBAJAC
● M
0851
● S
HADE
● B
ARBARA BUI
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Rue Bonaparte
SHOP Recommendation
La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com
Opening times
Monday-Friday: 10am-7pmSaturday-Sunday: 10am–8pm
La Vallée Village
88 | GU I DE
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Don’t MISS…
Church’s
one of the most acclaimed brands in the men’s luxury footwear industry, Church’s was founded in England in 1873 and since then has gained a devoted following for its use of high-quality leather, expert craftsmanship and quintessentially English sense of style.
Vanessa Bruno
Vanessa Bruno is one of Paris’s most popular fashion designers, known for her unique interpretation of post-romantic femininity with a refreshing, androgynous take on contemporary womenswear. those favouring her designs tend to have a well-developed sense of style and like to stand out from the crowd; sequined tote bags, fuid dresses and lisle knits are all Bruno wardrobe staples.
Lancel
Luxury leather brand Lancel has a rich heritage which it often draws upon to create vintage-inspired designs for a modern
audience. the company was established in Paris in 1876 and since then has consistently produced collections that combine intelligent design and fne leather craftsmanship with contemporary fashion trends.
SHOP | 89
PERFECt DAY
4pm
no footwear brand encapsulates red-carpet glamour like Jimmy
Choo and its outlet boutique is the perfect place to fnd a pair of show-stopping heels. Embellishment is found across the range, on everyday sneakers and towering stilettos alike. Don’t miss the rest of the store’s ofering: handbags, eyewear and fragrances are all available.
10am
Start your day’s shopping by picking up one of Polo Ralph
Lauren’s signature polo shirts, emblazoned with the label’s iconic horse logo. this is a key wardrobe piece for those looking to perfect the defnitive American preppy-chic style.
6pm
Prepare for chillier evenings by visiting Eric Bompard. the label has made its name by combining fne Mongolian wool and artisanal knitting techniques to create cashmere pieces of the highest quality that are wonderfully soft.
How to GEt tHERE
By car from Paris
take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; there are 2,300 free spaces.
By car from Reims
Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/Entrée A.
Shopping Express
coach service
La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express service ofers two daily coaches from central Paris. Depart from place des Pyramides at 9.30am and return from La Vallée Village at 2.30pm or depart at 12.30pm and return at 5pm.
By train
the closest tGV train station is Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By RER train, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday.
12pm
Pause for lunch at Pret A
Manger. this gourmet sandwich shop prides itself on sourcing the fnest fresh ingredients. Choices include fresh soups, baguettes, crisp salads and delicious pastries, accompanied by a cup of ethically sourced organic cofee.
3pm
Be sure to schedule a stop at Carven into your day’s itinerary. this historic French fashion house has reinvented itself since creative director Guillaume Henry joined the brand in 2009. Carven is now known for producing sought-after ready-to-wear collections that epitomise the modern interpretation of Parisian chic.
90
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Translations
95
Клэр Кулсон отмечает особое внимание мира
моды к экзотическим культурам
Первый признак того, что мода отправляется
исследовать дальние страны, появился задолго
до шоу сезона весна/лето 2014. Поворотный
момент случился в середине показов осенней
коллекции haute couture Рафа Симонса для
Christian Dior. Дизайнер отошел от привычных
силуэтов в стиле New Look и элегантных
Русский ПеРевод
46: Out Of Africa
Прогулка по Африке
парижских дневных платьев, чтобы вывести
в центр внимания замысловатые вариации
на этнические костюмы. Яркие узкие
платья оранжевого, кобальтового, красного
и черного оттенков удачно сочетались с
широкими фольклорными воротниками, а
тонкие тюлевые наряды с замысловатыми
комбинациями клеток и полос напоминали
традиционную одежду африканского
племени масаи.
Понадобилось совсем немного
времени, чтобы эта тема получила
широкое распространение. Стелла Теннант
сопровождала Симонса прошлой осенью
на Guggenheim International Gala в платье с
драпировкой и принтами в африканском духе.
Но еще накануне весенне-летние коллекции
были пронизаны экзотическими мотивами
родом из жарких стран: насыщенные земляные
тона, контрастные принты, напоминающие
энергичные костюмы восточной Африки, а
также плиссировка, источником которой также
можно назвать этнические костюмы.
Каждый сезон модные редакторы и
критики удивляются, что же заставляет моду
снова и снова возвращаться к африканским
мотивам. Но когда влиятельные и независимые
дизайнеры, как Раф Симонс, Сара Бертон
из Alexander McQueen, Рикардо Тиши из
Givenchy и Фиби Фило из Céline, одновременно
отправляются в модное путешествие,
игнорировать тенденцию просто невозможно.
Очевидно, что мэтры представляют вниманию
зрителей вариации на тему национальных
костюмов с многовековой историей, хотя
никто из дизайнеров публично этой связи не
признает. Фиби Фило, например, говорила о
«сильной энергетике, мощи»: она объединила
топы в африканском стиле с длинными
плиссированными юбками. Кроме того,
она использовала яркие принты в виде
широких мазков краски для драпированных
многослойных комплектов, а также
потрепанные шарфы с росписью.
Рикардо Тиши называет источником
вдохновения для своей коллекции весна/лето
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96
54: Top Table
Во главе стола
Стивен Дойг рассказывает о парижских
мастерах, которые создают восхитительную
столовую утварь из фарфора и стекла
Париж – идеальное место для процветания
изысканных ремесел. Живым подтверждением
тому могут быть ювелирные магазины
на роскошной Вандомской площади
и модные универмаги на rue de Rivoli.
Однако ярче всего истинно французское
умение обставлять повседневную жизнь
со вкусом и элегантностью проявляется во
всевозможной домашней утвари. Здесь имеет
значение не только то, что пить, но и из чего
пить. Именно поэтому в Париже так много
компаний, которые многие годы превращают
повседневное, обычное заваривание чая в
роскошное времяпрепровождение.
Чашка чая – это такое простое
удовольствие. Однако марка Mariage Frères
знает, как сделать из него неповторимое
чувственное переживание. Фирменный
магазин компании представляет собой не
только чайный универмаг: пространство
полностью посвящено завариванию горячего
напитка и созданию великолепных чайников
и чашек. Вокруг него даже сложилось
виртуальное сообщество по поиску винтажных
для Givenchy творчество кутюрье Мадам Гре,
прославившуюся объемными нарядами из
джерси и шелка. В то же время его модный
показ был обставлен в африканском стиле:
визажист Пэт МакГрат аккуратно нарисовала
маски прямо на лицах моделей, одетых в платья
их джерси приглушенных оттенков – хаки,
табак, терракот и выжженный апельсин, а на
их плечи были наброшены перфорированные
кожаные шали.
«В коллекции столкнулись две культуры
– японская и африканская, - пояснил Тиши. –
Плиссировка и драпировка в стиле Мадам Гре,
как и цветовая гамма, навевают романтику
жарких стран. Но в то же время я объединил их
с японской элегантностью и утонченностью».
Подобная комбинация может показаться
странной, но тонкие платья, украшенные
кожаными ремешками, обеспечили успех
Тиши. Более того, он даже избавился от
привычных туфель на высоких каблуках,
отдав предпочтение свободным сандалиям на
плоской подошве.
Для многих дизайнеров африканское
влияние связано с модернистским искусством
начала 20 века. В то время южная экзотика
вдохновляла дизайнеров и художников,
в частности - Пикассо и Мондриана.
«Я не хотела, чтобы мои работы были
связаны с определенным периодом или
темой», - рассказывает Сара Бертон о своем
захватывающем показе для McQueen. В нем
отчетливо просматривались востребованные
темы, искусно переплетенные между собой:
этнические костюмы, искусство модернизма
и, конечно, богатое наследие этого модного
дома. Бертон сконструировала нагрудники из
крокодиловой кожи, юбки из замысловатых
геометрических форм и впечатляющие платья с
яркими перьями.
Для многих африканские влияния в этом
сезоне стали данью современной эклектике.
èднако Moncler максимально наглядно
проиллюстрировала эти путешествия на
южный континент – в жакетах для сафари,
в сочетании хаки с принтами под леопарда,
жирафа и змеи, в отделке экзотическими
перьями. Александр МакКуин как-то раз
отметил, что для него главным источником
вдохновения всегда был National Geographic.
Потрясающие коллекции, в основе которых
лежит столкновение самых разных культур,
прекрасно это иллюстрируют. Грядущей
весной этот экстравагантный дух особенно
расцветет, благодаря активной работе молодых
дизайнеров-авангардистов.
Благодаря плодотворному творчеству
романтиков от моды, мы можем в буквальном
смысле примерить экзотические культуры на
себя. Топы с помпонами марки Dries Van Noten
навевают мысли о домотканых гобеленах и
коврах североафриканских берберов. Культура
тех краев послужила источником образов
для изысканно расшитых накидок, пальто и
платьев, представленных на запоминающемся
шоу Valentino. Именно так самые невероятные
модные фантазии и страсть к творческим
путешествиям воплощаются в жизнь.
97
здесь есть и чаши из покрытого платиной
фарфора для японского чая, и расписные
стеклянные чайники ручной работы, и
чугунная ярко-розовая утварь, и пиалы с
золотой эмалью, навевающей мысли о роскоши
в духе Фаберже.
В некоторых центрах дизайна, признаком
профессионализма считаются современность
и актуальность стиля. Но в Париже в центре
внимания остается история. Когда наступает
пора от чая перейти к чему-нибудь покрепче,
парижские дизайнеры с готовностью
преподносят великолепные бокалы. В 1886 году
Рене Лалик, ювелир и стеклянных дел мастер,
основал собственное дело, сосредоточившись
на работе с хрусталем. èн был одним из
лидеров парижского ар-нуво, поэтому
покупая предметы Lalique для обеденного
стола, вы приобретаете особую связь с
историей искусства.
Эксперименты Лалика со стеклом
привели к появлению уникальной эстетики.
èна проявилась в самых разных мотивах:
вьющиеся локоны, головы лошадей, важные
для ар-нуво природные сюжеты– все это
появлялось в оформлении стеклянной утвари,
вроде стеклянных пробок для декантеров,
или в качестве самостоятельных элементов.
Именно компании Lalique принадлежит
авторство знаменитого талисмана Flying B для
винтажных моделей Bentley.
Артистический дух Парижа также
проявляется в разнообразной продукции
марки Lalique, будь то стеклянная посуда
или декоративные и ювелирные украшения.
Но именно столовый хрусталь передает
самую суть ее стиля: элегантные бокалы для
шампанского, яркие темно-красные чаши,
вазы с лиственным орнаментом. В наши дни
компанией Lalique управляет харизматичный
Сильвио Денц, знаток вина и предприниматель
международного уровня. Свою задачу
он видит в поддержании мастерства на
фирменном высоком уровне и одновременно
расширение пределов возможного в дизайне
домашней утвари.
«Я думаю, естественным этапом развития
стал переход от коллекционирования к
владению, - рассказал он журналу Bentley.
– Я всегда любил творения Рене Лалика, и в
предметов Mariage Frères, которые уже
приобрели статус культовых. Причин
подобного внимания к марке несколько.
Прежде всего, в каждом предмете из
изогнутого стекла или фарфора мандаринового
или голубого оттенка воплощается
неподражаемый уровень мастерства. Но,
помимо прочего, Mariage Frères обладает
удивительной историей, которая берет свое
начало в 1660 году. Именно тогда Николас
Марьяж совершил несколько путешествий
на восток. В 1700-е Жан-Франсуа Марьяж из
Лилля привозил во Францию чай, специи и
другие экзотические товары и в то же время
готовил своих сыновей перенять это дело. А в
1854 году была официально основана компания
Mariage Frères.
Эксперименты всегда были неотъемлемой
частью философии компании, что выразилось
в применении принципов гастрономического
купажа к чайному вкусу. Именно этот чайный
дом первым стал производить чай с ароматом
шоколада, чайное желе и чайные свечи. В
наши дни под маркой Mariage Frères работают
большой универмаг и многочисленные
салоны, а также выпускается чайная посуда
из стекла и фарфора с глазурью. Разнообразие
ассортимента по всем направлениям поражает:
globalblue.com
98
моих планах – обращаться к его наследию и черпать вдохновение в его умении создавать не просто объекты, а целые интерьеры, причем в современном понимании. Мы хотим превратить Lalique во всемирный бренд».
Будь то благородные, красиво сервированные чайные столы, или роскошные вечерние коктейли, - парижские эксперты всегда готовы предложить вам нечто изысканное.mariagefreres.com, lalique.com
60: All Change
Смена караула
Харриет Квик рассказывает о новых назначениях в двух крупных модных домах Парижа
Едва ли что-то способно взволновать мир моды настолько же серьезно, как назначение нового креативного директора в крупном модном доме. С ним сразу же начинают связывать надежды, а обсуждения достигают точки кипения, поскольку поклонники дизайна, ритейлеры и модные обозреватели в равной
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степени с нетерпением ожидают перемен. В последнее время произошло два заметных, хоть и разных по характеру, назначения. И оба они сулят великолепные коллекции и активный весенний сезон во французской столице.
Сначала появились новости, что итальянец Марко Занини, возглавлявший Rochas в период перерождения марки, возьмет в свои руки бразды правления Schiaparelli. Затем выяснилось, что всеобщий любимец, авангардный дизайнер Николя Гескьер станет креативным директором Louis Vuitton после ухода Марка Джейкобса. Занини и Гескьер работают в непохожих друг на друга творческих манерах, но их объединяет любовь к сдержанному дизайну и желание раздвигать пределы красоты и вкуса.
Модный дом Schiaparelli, основанный Эльзой Скиапарелли, на протяжении нескольких десятилетий стоял на месте и не развивался. Однако в начале нулевых его приобрела компания Tod’s Group, принадлежащая Диего Делла Валле, и теперь Занини получит в свое распоряжение впечатляющий архив, в который ему предстоит погрузиться. Парижанка родом из Италии, Эльза Скиапарелли была одним из самых влиятельных кутюрье начала 20 века. Ее стиль был напрямую связан с эрой сюрреализма, благодаря постоянным творческим контактам с Сальвадором Дали, Жаном Кокто и Альберто Джакометти. Скиапарелли, которую называли Скиап, получила прекрасное образование и начала карьеру, создавая образы для себя. Только позднее появилась первая небольшая коллекция вязаной одежды.
Известность дизайнеру принес остроумный декор костюмов, над которым
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90: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue.2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов.
Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте до 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.
时尚本季驰骋到非洲原野上，Clare Coulson带您
探路
时尚早在2014春夏发布之前就显露出它对蓝色原野
地平线的钟爱，Raf Simons的迪奥秋冬高定秀中就
打响了这股风潮的第一枪。比利时设计师用全新的
线条和优雅的巴黎日间礼服裙细节在部落风上大作
文章——明亮橙黄色紧身裙，深蓝、深红红和黑色
美文翻译
46: Out Of Africa
走出非洲
иногда работал истинный мастер вышивки Франсуа Лесаж, и сюрреалистичные эффектные приемы, как, например, лобстер на платье кисти Сальвадора Дали (1937 год). Приковывающие внимание, провокационные модели Скиап во многом оказались шокирующими для мира моды того времени. Так что парфюм во флаконе цвета фуксии так и назвали - Shocking.
Назначение Занини случилось весьма своевременно. Марка Schiaparelli покорила теперь уже новое поколение во время выставки 2012 года Impossible Conversations («Немыслимые творения») в Нью-Йоркском музее искусства Метрополитен. Эта экспозиция была создана совместно с Миуччей Прада - страстной обожательницей творчества Скиап. За время работы в Rochas Занини точно так же провоцировал и бросал вызов общественному вкусу через необычные сочетания цветов и экстраординарные ткани. Будучи итальянцем, он скромно утверждает, что у него есть «особая близость с модным домом Schiaparelli».
Перед Николя Гескьером стоит аналогичная задача - вывести Louis Vuitton на новую ступень. Этот мощный модный дом был основан в Париже в конце 19 века как производитель дорожных кейсов. Марк Джейкобс придал модному дому остроумие и элегантность, а также впервые создал коллекцию готовой одежды. Парижские показы марки, масштабные и театрализованные, на фоне каруселей, эскалаторов, вокзалов, стали неотъемлемой частью модных недель. В то же время аксессуары с фирменной клеткой превратились в символ статуса во всем мире.
Магазины Louis Vuitton открылись в самых отдаленных уголках мира, включая Улан Батор, столицу Монголии. Путешествия составляют самую суть этого бренда - как в прямом, так и в переносном смысле. Гескьер, воскресивший Balenciaga, вне всякого сомнения, сотворит чудо и с Louis Vuitton, перенаправив его потенциал в будущее. В конце концов, мода всегда черпает энергию из заново открытых прежних идей.schiaparelli.com, louisvuitton.com
globalblue.com
100
的宽大的部落领口，纯色蓬蓬裙混合条纹和方格，
再现出非洲马赛人的传统服饰风格。
这股风潮迅速蔓延，Stella Tennant就在秋季
古根海姆国际晚宴上与Simons合作展示了非洲风
的丝绸拼接和印花。在此之前的春夏发布就已经充
满了撒哈拉以南的风格：浓浓的大地色、大胆的色彩
映衬出东非的鲜艳妆容，慵懒拖地设计和非洲部落
的简洁和紧致裁剪相映成辉。
编辑和评论员们惊叹于时尚季节更替快如非洲
部落鼓点的速度。但是当Raf Simons, Alexander
McQueen设计师Sarah Burton，纪梵希设计师
Riccardo Tisci和Céline设计师 Phoebe Philo 等
先锋派设计师一同发布的时候，这种时尚的鼓点更
会急剧加速，响彻天际。
这些设计师们不约而同地注入了民族风，甚至
有些不假思索。Phoebe Philo以力量见长，她设计
出的非洲风长裙，大胆夸张的粗线条印花给服饰
增添层次感，故意做旧的印花围巾塑造出非洲式高
领。
Riccardo Tisci成就了高定大师Madame
Grès, 她精致的拖拽紧身裙和丝绸礼服裙是纪梵希
春夏的精髓，同时整场秀又充满了非洲色彩：从Pat
McGrath镶满水晶的“武士面具”到拖地的各种接近
大地色的真丝裙，到斑驳的真皮披肩。
这个系列是日本和非洲两种文化的对撞。Tisci
解释道：“我和Grès女士在创作折叠、裙摆和色彩的
时候联想到了非洲浪漫的一面——但又带有日本的
优雅和脆弱。” 或许这样的组合并不常见，但Tisci皮
带配裙子的做法大获全胜。他甚至没有用代表性的
恨天高的鞋子，取而代之的是粗带子平底凉鞋。
对于很多设计师来说非洲风可以上溯到20世
纪初，它影响了如毕加索和蒙德里安等一大批艺
术家。”我不想全盘效仿一个时代”，亚历山大麦昆
设计师Sarah Burton说。然而她编织的主题却很
明显：民族服饰、现代图形艺术以及麦昆传统的设
计。Burton把鳄鱼皮切割成胸衣，用复杂的几何图
形拼制出裙摆，营造出层叠感很强的羽毛裙子。
如果很多本季的非洲风都带有强烈的现代意
味的话，Moncler的自然之旅就显得更加轻盈和洒
脱——豹子、长颈鹿、蛇皮、羽毛和卡其色配饰、狩
猎夹克形成鲜明对比。亚历山大麦昆曾说他的第一
次关于非洲的灵感来自于《国家地理杂志》，他设计
出美妙的系列源于广袤的大地和自然风光，并给予
成功地勾画。春季，这种精神被流传到新一代地前
瞻设计师作品中。
诚然异域文化在时尚历史上从未如此通过服饰
来真实表达，Dries Van Noten的毛球边绣花上衣
让人联想到北非伯伯尔地毯，与华伦天奴开场精致
绝伦的编织斗篷、外套和连衣裙不谋而合。这一切都
是时尚梦境和创意神游的真实再现。
54: Top Table
座上宾
无论是完美陶瓷还是精妙玻璃器皿，巴黎的工匠制
作出餐桌摆设一样美轮美奂，Stephen Doig报道
巴黎是精致手工艺的故乡；旺多姆广场的奢华珠宝
和里沃利街雅致时装就是明证。然而家居也是法国
人优雅品味的体现，从盛放酒水的容器乃至手握的
方式。巴黎的手工艺之巧夺天工能将倒茶这种稀松
平常的动作转变为一门艺术。
喝茶再平常不过，Mariage Frères却将其设计
成一种愉悦的初体验。Mariage Frères不仅是一
个简单的茶室，它是巴黎著名老牌手工茶叶茶具制
造商，粉丝甚至设立了一个专门网站讨论Mariage
Frères的复古设计。我们不禁问为什么？除了精美的
茶具以外，玻璃器皿，深橘色瓷器和海蓝色工艺品烧
制出品牌无双的历史。
Mar iage家族从1660年就开始运营茶业，
始于Nicolas Mar iage前往东方的旅行。1770
年代，Jean-François Mariage继续出售茶叶、
香料等舶来品，同时锻炼他的儿子们继承 家
业。Mariage Frères茶叶公司成立于1854年，实
验是它的经营理念，它将星级美食渗透到茶道当
中，并且率先将茶融合进巧克力、果冻和蜡烛。如
今Mariage Frères不仅推出茶叶和品茶沙龙，它还
生产鲜亮的陶瓷和玻璃茶具。其种类之繁多能和
Mariage Frères出产的茶叶数量媲美，包括富有
东方神韵的镀铂金抹茶碗，手工吹制的精美玻璃茶
壶，艳粉色铸铁壶以及与Fabergé风绝配的金色瓷
釉壶。
在一些家居设计中，现代风格和先锋品味是
卓越的体现，但在巴黎，历史风韵犹存。茶余饭
后，美酒上演的时光，巴黎设计师们无一例外地
加以布置雕琢。1886年，玻璃专家兼珠宝设计师
René Lalique将将目光转移向专业水晶。他是巴黎
新艺术革命的先锋，买一件餐桌上的水晶器皿好比
购进了一段艺术史。Lalique的吹制玻璃工艺引领
类一类新的美学风格，从烟色玻璃瓶的瓶塞就能看
出，无论是螺旋贝壳还是马头，自然和动物等新艺术
元素被栩栩如生地注入器皿和工艺品种。Lalique
还设计出了宾利车头上著名的展翅飞翔B形车徽。
无论是装饰工艺还是珠宝，巴黎文艺风渗透在
Lalique的产品当中。但是归根结底，水晶器皿当
属品牌的精髓，从优雅、传统的高脚杯到装饰有树
叶形状的深红色餐具。如今Lalique由卓越的品酒
师和国际集团总裁Silvio Denz所经营，他保有了
Lalique传统的工艺并不停地挑战创新品牌传统设
计。“我想从收藏到拥有是一个很自然的过程”，他告
诉宾利汽车杂志，“我钟爱René Lalique的设计，我
101
60: All Change
焕然一新
巴黎两家最负盛名的时装屋本季迎来新任创意总
监，Harriet Quick为您报道
在粉丝们、零售商和媒体如火如荼的炒作下，没有什
么比大品牌更换时尚设计师更加激动人心的了。两
条不约而同的新闻让时尚之都如春日一般悸动。
首先是低调的意大利设计师Marco Zanini，他
曾经带动了Rochas的复苏，即将掌舵Schiaparelli；
其次是时尚先锋设计师Nicolas Ghesquière即将继
Marc Jacobs担任路易威登的设计师的职位。两人
拥有迥异的风格但他们的设计都大胆挑战传统美学
和品味。
由Elsa Schiaparelli创建的品牌Schiaparelli在
沉睡了几十年后于90年代初被Diego Della Valle
掌管的Tod’s收购。Zanini接过的是一部鲜活的
历史和一叠可观的文献。意大利出生、巴黎长大的
Elsa Schiapprelli是20世纪初最具影响力的高定大
师之一，她的灵感来自于超现实主义大师达利，Jean
Cocteau和Alberto Giacometti。受高等教育的她
在业内被人亲切地称为Schiap，她从为自己设计
的第一个针织系列开始。精巧的细节构思由刺绣大
师François Lesage付诸于定制西装之上，还有她
1937年设计，由达利亲自绘制的经典龙虾晚礼服。
Schiap大胆抢眼的设计轰动一时，她所设计的
嫣红瓶身的香水就被命名为“惊叹”。Zanini的任职
正是时候。就在不久前的2012年，Miuccia Prada
还与Schiaparelli合作在纽约大都市艺术画廊举办
了一场名为“不可能对话”的展出，纪念Schiap的作
品。Zanini为Rocha期间使用奇异色彩搭配精美的
面料，创作过同样充满灵性和革新作品。作为一个意
大利人，他谦虚地承认自己是Schiaparelli的“忠实
粉丝”。
Nicolas Ghesquière来到路易威登，即将把
这个19世纪的巴黎行李箱品牌提升到一个新的台
阶。Marc Jacobs将他的智慧、优雅和风格注入品
牌，创造出了它第一个成衣系列。巴黎的路易威登
秀宏大且充满戏剧想像力（马车、电梯、火车站同
台亮相），一度成为时装周的热门话题，而经典格
纹帆布的配饰则已是全球公认的地位和身份的象
征。路易威登店遍布世界各个角落，远及蒙古首都
乌兰巴托。旅行名副其实地流淌在路易威登的血液
90: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球，尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，
环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free
Shopping）为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global
Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过
程：
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费，请索要环 球蓝联退税表格
（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小
票。
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当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台
请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客
服柜台领取您的退税款。
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管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将
以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。
日本語翻訳
46: Out Of Africa
アフリカの風
今シーズン、ファッションは遥かなる地へ。クレア・
コールソンがその旅路を記す。
ファッションが遥かなる青き地平線へ向かう最初
の兆しが見えたのは、2014年春夏のショーが始ま
るずっと前だった。厳密に言えば、ラフ・シモンズ
によるクリスチャン・ディオールの秋冬クチュール
想使用一种现代创新的方式把这种灵感渗透到整
个家居内饰当中，把Lalique打造成一个国际家居品
牌。”从优美雅致的茶几到炫彩迷离的鸡尾酒会，巴
黎的手工艺人可谓面面俱到。
mariagefreres.com, lalique.com
里。Ghesquière，这个曾经拯救类巴黎世家的设计
师，无疑会将他的魔法流传到路易威登，给品牌的未
来注入能量。时尚，说到底，是一种再造的魔力。
schiaparelli.com, louisvuitton.com
globalblue.com
102
ショーが半ばに差し掛かった頃だ。ベルギー人デ
ザイナーのシモンズは、ニュールック風のシルエッ
トや優雅なパリジャンのデイドレスから離れ、部
族衣装的な要素を実に巧妙に取り入れたデザイン
をいくつか披露した。オレンジ、コバルトブルー、レ
ッド、ブラックの光沢あるシースドレスに部族風の
幅広の首飾り、アフリカのマサイ族の伝統衣装を
思わせるチェックとストライプを複雑にミックスし
たシアーなチュール地のドレスなどだ。
このアフリカンムードはまもなく人の心をつか
む。昨秋のグッゲンハイム美術館インターナショ
ナルガラにシモンズと共に現れたステラ・テナント
は、シルクとプリントを組み合わせたアフリカ風の
ドレープドレスに身を包んでいた。それに先立つ
春夏コレクションでも、深みある素朴な色合い、
東アフリカの色鮮やかなコスチュームを彷彿とさせ
る大胆なプリント、器用に折り重ねたりひだを付け
たりした民族衣装がヒントになっていることが明
らかなドレープなど、サハラ以南アフリカ風のデザ
インが多 見々られた。
ファッションがなぜ、どのようにして同じ（部
族の）太鼓のリズムに合わせて進むのか。それは、
エディターや批評家が毎シーズン首を傾げる謎
だ。ただ、ラフ・シモンズ、サラ・バートン（アレキサ
ンダー・マックイーン）、リカルド・ティッシ（ジバン
シィ）、フィービー・フィロ（セリーヌ）といった影響
力の大きな独自路線のデザイナーが揃って「旅」
に出たとなると、そのニュースはあらゆるレベルの
ファッションに波紋を広げずにはおかない。これ
らのデザイナーは、誰一人明言はしなかったもの
の、何世紀も昔から受け継がれた民族衣装をイン
スピレーションにしたことは間違いない。フィービ
ー・フィロの場合、テーマは「溢れるパワー、力強
さ」。プリントのトップにプリーツの入ったロングの
巻きスカートでアフリカの雰囲気を加えた他、幅
広ブラシで描いた躍動感あるプリントをドレープ
やレイヤードのルックスに用い、ほつれ感を出した
プリントのスカーフを首の高い位置に結んだ。
リカルド・ティッシは、ドレープが美しいジャ
ージーやシルクのロングドレスで有名なクチュリ
エ、マダム・グレをジバンシィ春夏コレクションのイ
ンスピレーションとして挙げたかもしれないが、彼
のショーは、パット・マグラスがクリスタルで丹念
に施した「戦士の仮面」といい、深いカーキ、タバ
コ、テラコッタ、くすんだオレンジといった土臭い色
合いのジャージーのドレープドレスといい、目打ち
したレザーのショールといい、アフリカの影響があ
ちこちに見られた。
「このコレクションは日本とアフリカの二つの
文化がぶつかって生まれたもの」と、ティッシは説
明している。「マダム・グレのプリーツやドレープ
と、アフリカの浪漫を感じさせる色合いを使いな
がら、日本の優雅さやはかなさを混ぜ合わせまし
た。」ちょっと変わった組み合わせかもしれない
が、ティッシはこの文化の衝突を、流れるようなド
レスに馬具用の革の締めひもを合わせて見事に
表現してみせた。お馴染みのスカイスクレーパーヒ
ールも今回は控え、代わりに平らでがっちりした
紐付きサンダルを使った。
多くのデザイナーがアフリカの影響に20世紀
初頭のモダニズムアートを織り交ぜている。アフリ
カ文化がピカソやモンドリアンといった芸術家や
デザイナーにインスピレーションを与えた時代だ。
サラ・バートンは刺激的なマックイーンのショーを
終えた後に「一つの時代やテーマにあまり縛られ
たくなかった」とコメントしたが、それでも、コレク
ションに巧みに織り込まれたテーマははっきりし
ていた。部族衣装とグラフィックなモダニズムアー
ト、そしてやはり、本来のマックイーンらしさだ。バ
ートンは、部族衣装の胸当てをワニ革で作り、複
雑な幾何学図形のカットワークをあしらったスカ
ートや、鮮やかな羽根を層状に重ねた目を見張る
ようなドレスを創作した。
今シーズンのコレクションに見られるアフリカ
色の多くが超モダンなマッシュアップだとすると、
モンクレールの作品は遥かに明るく、文字通りア
フリカ大陸へひとっ跳びの感がある。ヒョウ柄、キ
リン柄、ヘビ柄はもちろん、ヒョウ柄にエキゾチッ
クな羽根を合わせたりトリミングに使ったりして、
カーキのセパレーツやサファリジャケットとのコン
トラストを効かせた。アレキサンダー・マックイー
ンがかつて、インスピレーションの源としてまず見
るのが「ナショナル・ジオグラフィック」誌だと言っ
ていたことがあるが、彼の遺した素晴らしいコレ
クションが幾多の大陸や文化に根ざしていたこと
が、それを如実に物語っている。この春、その彼の
精神は生き続け、それを新たに取り入れた先見性
あるデザイナーは数多い。
だが、文化の衝突を解釈して現実的で着やす
い服にする妙手といえば、やはりファッションの浪
漫派だ。ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンのショーでは、タ
ペストリーに発想を得たポンポンのトリミング付き
のトップが北アフリカのベルベル人のラグを思わ
せた。ヴァレンティノのショーの幕開けに登場した
この上なく美しい刺繍入りケープとコート、ドレス
にも、北アフリカに足を踏み入れたような雰囲気
が漂っていた。まさにファッションの夢の装い。ク
リエイティブな旅心が形となって目の前に現れた
瞬間だ。
103
54: Top Table
食卓の華
完璧な磁器から魅惑的なガラス製品まで、パリの
職人は見事な技で作られた製品を食卓に提供し
ている。スティーヴン・ドイグがレポートする。
パリは精巧な職人技の本場。そのことは、高級感
あふれるヴァンドーム広場の店舗やリヴォリ通り
のエレガントなファッションショップを見れば一目
瞭然だ。実はホームウェアもその好例で、飲み物
の選び方から注ぎ方まで、生活のあらゆる面を風
雅で気品あるものにするフランス人の能力を表し
ている。パリには、ごくありふれた行為（お茶を注
ぐなど）をシックの極みに変える老舗ブランドが
ふんだんにある。
一杯のお茶は単純な楽しみだが、それがマリ
アージュ・フレールでは快感体験になる。同店は
単なる紅茶専門店ではなく、お茶を淹れることと
美しいティーポットやカップを作ることに情熱を傾
けるパリ伝統のブランドだ。マリアージュ・フレー
ルのヴィンテージデザインは、手に入れたいという
ファンのためのオンラインコミュニティがあるほど
で、一種の高級カルト商品になっている。その人気
の秘密は？ティーポット（波打つガラス、太陽のよ
うなミカン色や明るい水色の磁器などがある）に
凝らされた技巧のレベルはもちろんだが、このブラ
ンドには比類ない歴史がある。
マリアージュ一族は、ニコラ・マリアージュが
東方へ何度か航海した1660年頃から続く茶商
人。1700年代には、リールのジャン・フランソワ・
マリアージュが茶とスパイス、その他商品の輸入
業を変わらず営み、息子たちにも家業を仕込ん
だ。そして1854年にマリアージュ・フレール・ティ
ーカンパニーが設立される。以来実験をいつも企
業理念の一部としてきた同社は、美食学の原理を
お茶にも適用する。茶風味のチョコレートやティ
ーゼリー、ティーキャンドルをはじめて作ったブラ
ンドであり、現在は紅茶専門店とマリアージュ・フ
レール・ティーサロンの他に、施釉磁器やガラス
製の茶器の生産も行っている。マリアージュ・フレ
ールが提供する茶器は茶葉と同様に多様で、東
洋からインスピレーションを得たプラチナ釉磁器
の抹茶茶椀、華麗な手吹きガラスのティーポット、
ショッキングピンクの鉄瓶、ファベルジェスタイル
の壮麗さを醸す贅沢な金釉のポットなどがある。
デザインの都の中には、近代的で前衛的なの
が卓越の印というところもあるが、パリではやはり
歴史が欠かせない。ティータイムとは打って変わっ
て、もう少し強いものが欲しい時のグラスも、パリ
60: All Change
変化は進化
パリで最も由緒あるファションハウスのうち二社が今シー
ズン、新しいクリエイティブ・ディレクターを迎え入れた。
ハリエット・クイックが紹介する。
ファッション界にとって、ビッグブランドでの新クリエイ
ティブ・ディレクター任命ほどエキサイティングなことはな
い。何が起こるか、デザイン通や小売業者、マスコミが揃っ
て予想する中、期待は高まり興奮が熱狂の域に達する。
最近話題の二社の任命は全く異なるデザイナーの起用だ
が、いずれも素晴らしいコレクションを見せてくれることは
間違いなく、パリの春シーズンは話題が沸騰しそうだ。先
に入って来たのは、クリエイティブ・ディレクターとしてロ
のデザイナーはカバーしている。宝飾デザイナー
でガラスのエキスパート、ルネ・ラリックが巧妙な
クリスタル製品を主とした事業を立ち上げたのは
1886年のこと。彼はパリのアールヌーボー芸術運
動の中心的存在だったため、食卓用にラリッククリ
スタルを買うことは芸術史とのつながりを買うこと
になる。ラリックは吹きガラスの技法をあれこれ試
した末に、同ブランドに特徴的な独特の美感を生
み出した。それは、曇りガラスのデカンタストッパ
ー、渦巻く蔓や馬頭の形、動物や自然のモチーフ
（アールヌーボー様式の主要素）に見られる。いず
れも、ガラス製品に取り入れられたり独立した装
飾品としてデザインされたものだ。また、ヴィンテ
ージのベントレー車に付いている「フライングB」と
いう有名なカーマスコットを作ったのも同社だ。
ガラス製品から装飾品、宝飾品に至るまで、
ラリックで生産する幅広い商品には、パリの職人
魂も顕著に表れている。その中でブランドの核を
成すのはおそらく、優雅な伝統的脚付きシャンペ
ングラスから葉のモチーフで飾られた鮮やかな深
紅のボウルまで幅広いクリスタル食器だ。現在、
ラリックのオーナーはワイン通で国際的実業家の
シルヴィオ・デンツだが、彼はデザインの境界を押
し広げつつ同社の職人技を守っていくことを自分
の責任としている。「コレクターからオーナーへと
いうのは自然な流れだったと思う」とベントレー誌
に語ったデンツは、「ルネ・ラリックの作品が好き
で、単に物を作るだけでなくインテリア全体をモ
ダンで斬新な形で創り出した彼の創作からインス
ピレーションを得ていく考えで、ラリックを世界的
なライフスタイルブランドにしたいと思っている」と
いう。洗練された美しい茶器が並ぶ茶会から、カ
クテルグラスを傾けながらの魅惑的な夜会まで、
パリ有数の工芸品ブランドは場面を問わない。
mariagefreres.com、lalique.com
globalblue.com
104
90: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
海外でのお買い物が免税に
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご
利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピン
グ街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物
がお得になります。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブ
ルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用く
ださい。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加
盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に
「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あと
は、次のステップを踏むだけです。
1.お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの
免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取っ
てください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。
2.還付請求
ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに
承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルー
のカスタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けま
す。
お問い合わせ：
+421 232 111 111
€175.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最
高12％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い
戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手
数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご
了承ください。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な
場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフ
ォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場合
があります。
シャス復活の先頭に立った静かな語り口のイタリア人マル
コ・ザニーニが、スキャパレリの舵をとることになったとい
うニュース。続いて、ファッション界きっての前衛デザイナ
ー、ニコラ・ゲスキエールがマーク・ジェイコブスの後を
受けてルイ・ヴィトンのクリエイティブ・ディレクターに就
任することが発表された。ザニーニとゲスキエールはまる
で違う審美感の持ち主だが、精密なデザインを好み、美
しさとスタイルの境界を押し広げようとする点は共通して
いる。
スキャパレリはエルザ・スキャパレリが設立したブラ
ンドで、数十年にわたり休眠状態にあったが、2000年代
の始めにディエゴ・デッラ・ヴァッレのトッズグループが買
収した。
ザニーニは同ブランドの鮮やかな歴史と印象的な
過去資料の中にどっぷり身を置くことになる。イタリア
に生まれパリに住んだデザイナー、エルザ・スキャパレリ
は、20世紀初頭に最も大きな影響力を持っていたクチュ
リエの一人で、サルヴァドール・ダリ、ジャン・コクトー、ア
ルベルト・ジャコメッティなど、この時代を代表するシュー
ルレアリズムの芸術家とユニークなコラボレーション関係
を築いた。高い教育を受けたスキャパレリ（通称スキャッ
プ）のキャリアは自分の衣装を作ることから始まり、続い
て小さなニットコレクションを制作した。彼女はまもなく、
テイラードスーツに付けたウィットの効いた飾り（刺繍の
巨匠フランソワ・ルサージュの手によるものもあった）や、
ダリが描いたロブスタードレス（1937年）のようなシュー
ルなトロンプ・ルイユ（騙し絵）効果で知られるようにな
る。スキャップの人目を引く挑戦的なデザインは当時の常
識を覆すもの。鮮やかな紫ピンクの容器に入ったスキャパ
レリの香水は、「ショッキング」と名付けられた。
ザニーニの任命はタイムリーだ。2012年にニューヨ
ークメトロポリタン美術館の「不可能な会話」展が、スキ
ャパレリとスキャップ作品の大ファンであるミウッチャ・プ
ラダとのコラボレーションで開催され、新世代のファンが
できているからだ。ロシャス時代のザニーニも、型破りの
カラースキームと変わった生地を好んで使い、感情を刺
激し審美眼に挑んできた。その彼はイタリア人としてスキ
ャパレリには「特別の愛着がある」と謙虚に語っている。
一方、ルイ・ヴィトンのニコラ・ゲスキエールは、19世
紀末にパリでトランクメーカーとして創業した強力なブラ
ンドを新たなレベルへ高めることが任務だ。ヴィトンは、
マーク・ジェイコブスがウィットとエレガンス、スタイルを
注入し、初の既製服コレクションを制作した。パリで行わ
れたルイ・ヴィトンのショーは、壮大で想像力に満ちた演
劇仕立て（回転木馬、エスカレーター、駅をメインに細部
まで考え尽くされたセット）でファッションウィークの花
形となり、同ブランドのダミエチェックキャンバスをモチ
ーフにした小物類は世界中でステータスシンボルになっ
ている。ルイ・ヴィトンは、モンゴルの首都ウランバートル
など遥か遠い国々にも店舗をオープンしている。旅はル
イ・ヴィトンのDNAに内在し、空想的にも文字通りにも解
釈できる。バレンシアガを見事に復活させたゲスキエー
ルは、ルイ・ヴィトンでもその手腕を発揮し、未来に向け
て同ブランドの魅力を新たにするに違いない。つまるとこ
ろ、ファッションは再発明の力なのだから。
schiaparelli.com、louisvuitton.com
to put a price on.
we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species.
To find out more visit globalblue.com/oceans
globalblue.com
106
LANVIN
The logo at Lanvin, one of Paris’s most
prestigious fashion houses, is instantly
recognisable, but few people know the story
of its origins. Said to be the oldest fashion
house in Paris, the company began when
Jeanne Lanvin opened a millinery boutique
in 1889, on the corner of the city’s rue Boissy
d’Anglas and rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
When Lanvin’s daughter Marguerite was born
in 1897, the designer began to create clothing
for her daughter. Soon enough, after admiring
Marguerite’s outfts, grown women began to
ask Lanvin to design garments for them. She
quickly became known for her exquisite couture
womenswear and in 1909 she joined the
Postcard
exclusive Syndicat de la Couture, cementing
her reputation as one of Paris’s foremost
couturiers. This image was taken in 1907 when
Lanvin and her daughter attended a costume
ball, wearing matching distinctively shaped
hats. It was Lanvin herself who had the idea
of using an image to represent her company,
a revolutionary idea at the time, and in 1923
illustrator Paul Iribe provided a drawing of the
photograph for that purpose. This year, Lanvin
celebrates its 125th anniversary and, under
the creative direction of Alber Elbaz, remains
one of the most sought-after luxury fashion
brands in the world; Jeanne Lanvin’s logo still
adorns every creation. irs
Lanvin,
22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré,
75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4471 3173,
lanvin.com * for map go to page 83
12, boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris | bucherer.com
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