Shampoo Cosmetic Technology Pharmacy

Definition

A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form–liquid,solid or powder–which when used under the specified conditions will

▪ remove surface grease,

▪ dirt, and

▪ skin debris

from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.

History

▪ Derived from hindi word – Champi which means to press, knead, soothe

▪ It was introduced by bengali in Britain

▪ In 1860 the word and meaning of shampoo was changed from massaging to applying soap to hair.

▪ Earlier ordinary soap was used to clean hair, like shekakai.

Evolution of shampoo in India▪ HUL undisputed leader from the early 90’s

▪ Sunsilk launched in 1964 ( General Shampoo platform )

▪ Clinic Plus launched in 1971 ( Family, health shampoo platform )

▪ Clinic All Clear launched in 1987 ( Therapeutic AD Shampoo)

▪ Sunsilk re-launched in 1987 - Shampoo + Conditioner ( Beauty platform ) with Sachet

▪ Clinic Active launched in 1991 ( with Pro Vitamin B - health platform )

▪ Sunsilk re-positioned and re-launched in 1994 ( Nutracare) - Pink for dry hair, yellow for normal hair, green for oily hair and black for long hair

Most Important effects

▪ Moisturizing

▪ Adsorption and/or penetration of the hair

▪ Cleansing

▪ Removal of oils

Action of shampoo on hair

▪ Lawrence and breuer 3 basic components of hair soil which are to be removed are:

1. Sebum – Oil secretions from SabaceousGlands

2. Protein matter from cell debris of stratum corneum

3. Atmospheric pollutants

The process of soil removal

▪ 3 types

1. Sebum – roll up

2.Soluble oil – aq

3. Insoluble particulate soil- electrostatic repulsion

Foaming of shampoo

▪Signal how quick lather is formed and quantity of it

▪ 3 stages▪ Rapidity of foam formation▪ Peak Volume Of foam▪ Consistency of lather

Surfactants

▪ Facilitate the removal of environmental dirt by reducing the surface tension between water and dirt.

▪ Dirt is dispensed in water phase and adsorption prevented

▪ Sebum and dirt are bound and surrounded at the centre of a micelle structure with hydrophilic end pointing outside.

surfactant examples

▪ Class 1: anionic

A. Alkyl sulfates

B. Alkyl ether sulfates

C. Sulfo succinic acid mono and di esters

D. Isothionates

▪Class 2 : non ionic

▪Fatty acid alkanolamides

▪Fatty amine oxides

▪Alkyl poly glucosides

▪Class 3: Amphoteric

▪Class 4 : Cationic

Shampoo additives

1. Modification of surfactant effectsA. Moisturizers - Fatty acid esters, Alkonalamides

B. Humectants – Propylene Glycol, PEG, Glycerin, Sorbitol and Lactate

Shampoo Stabilization

A. Preservatives- Para benzoic acid ester.,Sorbic acid, Methyl Paraben

B. UV adsorbers – Benzophenone derivatives

C. Anti- oxidants – Ascorbic acid, α- Tocopherol

D. Buffers – Citrate, Lactate, Phosphate buffers

Conditioners

Shampoo additives

▪ Thickeners▪ PG, PVA

▪ Pearlizers and opacifiers▪ Glycol disterate

▪ Preservatives▪ Parabens , iso thia zolinones

▪ pH modifiers ▪ 5.6 to 6.2

▪ Citric acid

Hair Damages

Raised hair cuticle

complete loss of hair cuticle

loosening of intercellular cement with initial transverse fracture in the fiber

Conditioning Agents

▪ The aim of conditioning agent is to maintain the natural condition of newly grown hairs for as long as possible.

▪ Include fatty substances such as Vegetable oils,

wax,

Lecithin,

Protein hydrolysates,

Quaternary ammonium compounds

silicones.

Conditioners

▪ Cationic like Poly Quaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-16 leave a film that coats the surface of the hair fiber, making it appear to be soft and smooth while improving shine and color by altering the refractive index.

▪ Silicones like Dimethicone are added along with special dispersing agents.

▪ Silicones add lubricity and reduce friction that arises during combing. They also provide anti static property

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

▪ Selenium disulfide

▪ Zinc pyrithrone

▪ Piroctone olamine

▪ Ketoconazole

▪ Ciclopirox olamine

Dandruff

▪ Anatomical reasons: in scalp – large number of terminal hair follicles and the enlarged epidermal surface due to numerous hair canals ---- lead to higher rate of exfoliation

▪ Pathological reasons: Accelerated proliferation of epidermal cells

▪ This exfoliation leads to breakdown of normal columnar structure of the stratum corneum and increased formation of cell aggregates which determine the size of flakes

▪ Yeast Malassezia spp. Inhabits the scalp

▪ Modern classification based on DNA typing – M. resticta and M. Globosa

DandruffTypes:

1. Simple Dandruff ( Pityriasis Simplex)

2. Oily Dandruff ( Pityriasis Steatoides)

3. Asbestos like scales (Pityriasis Amiantacea)

Pityriasis simplex

Pityriasis amiantacea

Pityriasissteatoides

Anti Dandruff agents

1. Agents inhibiting overproduction of keratinizing cells. Eg: Coal Tar

2. Keratolytic agents that break down cell aggregations Eg: colloidal sulfur, Salicylic acid

3. Anti-microbial agents that inhibit Malassezia spp.Eg: Selenium disulfide, Zinc pyrithrone, Pirocotoneolamine, Ketoconazole, Ciclopirox olamine

4. Combination of above

Anti Aging Shampoo

▪Cinnamido propyl trimonium chloride is a quaternized UV absorber that also has a conditioning effect in a shampoo

Unwanted effects

Detachment of compact crusts with telogen hairs. Acute felting

Carcinogenicity and Evaluation Tests

Carcinogenicity

▪ Tests:

1. Foam and foam stability

2. Wetting action

3. Conditioning

4. Microbiological activity

5. Eye irritation

6. Viscocity

References

[1]. H. Butler Ed.: “Paucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps”, 10th edition (1st Indian edition), Springer (India) Pvt. Ltd

[2]. Urbano CC. 50 years of hair care development. Cosmet Toiletries 1995; 110: 85–104.

[3]. Trüeb RM. Dermocosmetic aspects of hair and scalp. J InvestigDermatol Sympos Proc 2005; 10: 289–292.

[4]. Bouillon C. Shampoos. Clin Dermatol 1996; 14: 113–121.

[5]. Dawber R. Shampoos – scientific basis and clinical aspects. International Congress and Symposium Series 216. The Royal Society of Medicine Press Limited, London, 1996.

[6]. Brown M, Evans T, Poyner T, Tooley P. The role of ketoconazole 2 % shampoo in the treatment and prophylactic management of dandruff. J Dermatol Treat 1990; 1: 177–179.

[7]. Kligman AM, Marples RR, Lantis LR, McGinley KJ. Appraisal of efficacy of antidandruff formulations. J Soc Cosm Chem 1974; 25: 73–91.

[8]. Braun-Falco O, Heilgemeir GP. Zur Kopfschuppung (Pityriasissimplex capillitii). Hautarzt 1978; 29: 245–250.

[9]. Schuster S. The aetiology of dandruff andthe mode of action of therapeutic agents.Br J Dermatol 1984: 111: 235–242

[10]. Adams RM, Maibach HI. A five-year study of cosmetic reactions. J Am Acad Dermatol 1985; 13: 1062–1069.

[11]. Wissing SA, Muller RH. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) – a novel carrier for UV blockers. Pharmazie 2001; 56: 783–786.

[12]. 45 Langtry JA, Ive FA. Pityriasis amiantacea, an unrecognized cause of scarring alopecia described in four patients. Acta Derm Venereol 1991; 71: 352–253.

[13]. Kullavanijaya P, Gritiyarangsan P, Bisalbutra P. Absence of effects of dimethicone-and non-dimethicone-containing shampoos on daily hair loss rates. J Soc Cosm Chem 1992; 43: 195–206.

[14]. Leyden JJ, McGinley KJ, Kligman AM. Role of microorganisms in dandruff.Arch Dermatol 1976; 112: 333–338.

[15]. Wilson CL, Ferguson DJ, Dawber RP. Matting of scalp hair during shampooing – a new look. Clin Exp Dermatol15: 139–142.

[16]. Al-Ghani MA, Geilen DD, Blume- Peytavi U, Orfanos CE. Matting of hair: a multifactorial enigma. Dermatology 2000; 20: 101–104.

[17]. Rigopoulos D, Kontochristopoulos G,Kalogirou O, Gregoriou S, Katsambas A. J Europ Acad Dermatol Venereol 2006; 20: 334–336.

[18]. Merk HF, Mukhtar H, Kaufmann I, Das M, Bickers DR. Human hair follicle benzo[a]pyrene and benzo[a]pyrene7,8-diol metabolisme: effect of exposure to a coal tar containing shampoo.J Invest Dermatol 1987; 88: 71–76.

[19]. Van Schooten FJ, Moonen EJ, Rhynsburger E et al. Dermal uptake of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons after hair wash with coal tar shampoo. Lancet 1994; 344: 1505–1506.

[20]. http://www.encyclopedia.com/ shampoo