Name of the mill : Shabab Fabrics Limited Owner of the mill : Khandokar Abdul Muktadir Type of the mill : Terry fabric industry Year of the establishment : 2004 Location and site plan of the mill: Bashil, Hazirbazar, Bhaluka, Mymensingh Figure 1: site pan of Shabab Fabrics Ltd Page 1
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Name of the mill : Shabab Fabrics Limited
Owner of the mill : Khandokar Abdul Muktadir
Type of the mill : Terry fabric industry
Year of the establishment : 2004
Location and site plan of the mill:
Bashil, Hazirbazar, Bhaluka, Mymensingh
Figure 1: site pan of Shabab Fabrics Ltd
Page 1
Lay out of the mill
Figure 2: over view of the mill
A= Preparatory section
B1 = weaving section (DOBBY)
B2= weaving section (jacquard)
C = Dyeing section
D = Office + swing + dormitory
E = Boiler and Generator room
F = Main entrance and exit
G = vehicle way
Project cost: 1500 million taka only.
Page 2
History of the project development:
2004: Starts (buy land, start to build)
2008: machinery comes from turkey
2009: governing body elected
2010: start production with 1st buyer Vally Forge
Exporting country:
USA
France
Turkey
UK
Canada
Total production: 20 ton per day
Total turnover: 33$ million /year
Vision: To offer high quality and eco friendly products at most completive price through inte-
gration of creativity & expertise itself as well as for the society.
Mission: To obtain customer satisfaction by ensuring highest quality of products in a competi-
tive price.
Man power:
Total – 250
In factory – 230
Head office – 20
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Organizational structures:
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General Manager Operation
Head of MIS
Managing Director
Head of weaving
Head of procurement
Head of accounts
Head of HR & compliance
Chief finance officer
Sr.General Manager Co coordinator
Controller of audit &accounts
Head of planning
Head of commercial
Head of budget description
Head of Marketing
Head of supply chain management
Head of cost analysis
Head of stitching
Head of R&D
Head of dyeing &finishing
Head of maintenance &utility
Head of invention management
Head of export documentation
Head of export logistic
Head of quality assurance
Head of admin
Terry Towel:
A terry towel is described as a textile product which is made with loop pile on one or both sides
generally covering the entire surface or forming strips, checks, or other patterns (with end hems
or fringes and side hems or selvages)
History of Terry Weaving:
The name “terry” comes from the French word “tirer” which means to pull out, referring to the
pile loops which were pulled out by hand to make absorbent traditional Turkish toweling. Latin
“vellus”, meaning hair, has the derivation “velour”, which is the toweling with cut loops. In re -
search conducted on terry weaving by the Manchester Textile Institute, it was concluded that
original terry weaving was likely the result of defective weaving. The research indicates that this
development occurred in Turkey, probably in Bursa City, one of the major traditional textile cen-
ters in Turkey. Terry weaving construction is considered a later development in the evolution of
woven fabrics. Terry toweling is still known as "Turk Fabric", "Turkish Toweling" or "Turkish
Terry"
Parts of a Conventional Terry:
A woven towel consists of five parts. These are the pile area, fringes, beginning and end part,
selvedge, border. Every towel does not have to contain all of these parts. The pile area is consid-
ered the toweling part of the towel. Fringes are tied or an untied tasseled part of ground warps
and pile warps which are left unwoven at the beginning and the end edges of the towel. The be-
ginning and end sections are the tightly woven areas of a towel which come before or after the
pile fabric part and prevent this pile area from unraveling. They are woven without pile loops, in
a flat weave construction. The selvedge contains fewer number of warp end s than the pile area,
for example 90 comparing to 4000 total warp ends, woven without pile as a flat weave and has
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the purpose to reinforce the towel sides.
Classification of Terry Towels:
The classification of towels can be made according to weight, production, pile presence on fabric
surfaces, pile formation, pile structure, and finishing. These classifications are shown in Table
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In velour towels pile loops on one side of the fabric are sheared in order to give a smooth cut vel-
vet appearance. Uncut loops of the fabric are sheared in order to give a give the best absorbency,
whereas velour gives a luxurious velvety hand. A towel with appliqués is embellished with addi-
tional pieces of decorative fabric in a motif which is stitched onto the towel Two-pick terry tow-
els which were woven for bathrobe end-use have lost their importance today due to instability of
the loops. Five or more pick terry towels are rarely produced because they need to be beaten for
each pile twice. They need to be beaten for each pile twice. and four-pick terry towels. As one
sided pile toweling has low water absorbing capacity, it is only used for special purposes such as
a limited number of bathrobes. Furthermore weaving one sided pile terry with few or no defects
is difficult. In two sided pile terry both sides are covered with pile, whereas all the irregularities
are visible in one sided terry fabric as one side is bare without pile. Towels are divided into
groups according to end use and size as bath towels, hand towels, face towels, fingertip towels,
kitchen towels and washcloths
Product mix and description of various products
Beach Towel
Generally, a beach towel is a little larger than a bath towel. They are soft, fluffy and thick be-
cause their main purpose is to provide comfort while one relaxes by the pool or on the beach.
Types:
Besides the normal ones, multipurpose and convertible beach towels
are also available. These towels can be converted into a back pack,
tote or sleeping bag, deck chair cover and even into an auto seat
cover. These towels have storage in the form of pockets and closures.
They are very useful during windy condition.
Styles and patterns
Beach towels are usually in bright colors. They have interesting patterns printed or woven into
them, most of them being cool, fun and youthful. They also come in bright and colorful stripes.
Kids' beach towels come with printed or woven pictures of their favorite Disney characters and
super heroes.
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Materials used
Beach towels are made of the following materials:
Cotton
Terrycloth
Tencel
Uses
Beach towels are used for different purposes like:
To dry oneself after swimming.
For wiping sand from the body or objects.
Worn for privacy while changing clothes in public places.
As a cushy spot while sunbathing and help the user relax.
Bath Towel
The main purpose of a bath towel is for drying one's body after a bath or shower. They are gener-
ally woven with a soft and absorbent loop or pile and are thus used to wick the water away from
the body.
Types
In accordance to their specific use and size Bath towels are di-
vided into:
Wash Cloth Towel
Hand Towel
Standard Bath Towels
Bath Sheets
Washcloth Towel
Washcloth are the smallest form of bath towels. They are also called facecloth or washrag.
Washcloth are cheap and sold mostly in bulk.
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Types
Because washcloths are used for very personal purposes, there are disposable washcloths meant
for perineal and personal cleaning. They are ideal for guests and for the hospitality industry.
There are also scented wash cloths which contains aqueous solution to moisturize the skin while
cleaning. They are used mostly in hospitals and nursing homes. The disposable washcloths can
be heated once or twice to a select temperature.
Styles and patterns
Washcloths are mostly square in shape, though they can also be manufactured according to spec-
ification. Washcloths come in different colors, mostly in plain and checked pattern. There are
knitted forms of washcloths for a more invigorating bath. Washcloths are available in bulk or in
set with other matching towels.
Materials used
A washcloth is made of highly absorbent material. The material can range from medium weight
to heavy weight. The texture of a washcloth should be able to stimulate and invigorate the body
and at the same time exfoliate dead skin cells. The materials mostly used to make washcloth are:
Cotton
Terry Cotton
Linen
Uses
Washcloths are used for:
Lathering
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Scrubbing
Washing the face and body
Hand Towel
Hand towels are not just a larger substitute for washcloths. They should be coordinated
with the other bath towels. The general size of a hand towel is 30x60 cm. They are usu-
ally positioned near the sink, hung on a hanger or loop.
Materials used
Hand towels can be made of different materials. The main criteria are they should be soft and ab-
sorbent. Some of the most common materials used for making hand towels are:
Cotton
Tencel
Silk
Styles and patterns
Hand towel has the maximum designs and patterns, they are unlimited. They can have embroi-
dery work on them. There are knitted hand towels. There are hand towels with crochet, patch-
work and prints. Hand towels are available in many colors. Stripe and embellished hand towels
are also available. Hand towels can be personalized with monograms or names embroidered on
them.
Uses
The many uses of a hand towel are:
A hand towel is used for drying hands after washing.
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Besides the general use for drying one's hands, hand towels are also used for promotional
purposes
Hand towels customized with the company/organization logo are used as a means of ad-
vertisement
Hand towels are very popular during corporate outings and events like golf. They come
with a grommet or hook to be fixed to the golf bag
Standard Bath Towels
Standard bath towels are the ones that most people use on a daily basis. Their main function is to
provide maximum absorption to the user.
Fig: Standard Bath towel
Types
Besides the normal bath towels, there are bath towels for infants, toddlers and kids. The infant's
and toddler's bath towel can have hoods, which keep them warm after a bath. Kid's bath towels
also come in the poncho style, it keeps them warm besides the pool or on the beach and also
makes changing very convenient.
Materials used
While making a bath towel, importance is given to the absorbing capacity and the ability to dry
quickly. Some of the most common fabrics used for making a regular bath towel are:
Terry Cloth
Terry Weave Microfiber
Cotton
Microfiber
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Styles and patterns
There is a vast array of styles and patterns of bath towel in the standard size. They can come in
the form of solid colors. White color is the most popular because of its fresh and crisp looks.
Some people preferred to have their initial/s monogrammed on the towel. Neat embroideries at
the corner of the towel are also very popular. For infants, toddlers and kids, the patterns are inter-
esting and come in bright colors. Some manufacturers offer custom digitized and monogrammed
towels according to specifications.
Shape and size
A standard bath towel is rectangular in shape and its popular size is 30"×60" (75×150 cm). But
people of a larger frame find the size of a normal bath towel not comfortable. So, they opt for a
larger variety known as a bath sheet.
Bath sheets
Bath sheets are the largest of all the bath towels. Many people prefer bath sheets to the standard
bath towels because of the more area for absorption.
Fig: Bath sheet
Materials used
Absorbency and comfort are the main purposes for the use of bath sheets, so high quality fabrics
are the first choice for the manufacturers. Utmost care is taken to the texture and finish of the
towel. The most common types of fabrics used for making a regular bath sheets are:
Terry Cloth
Terry Weave Microfiber
Cotton
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Microfiber
Fleece
Size
They can be six feet or more in length. The general size of a bath sheet is bath sheet is around
60" x 32". For larger people, the normal bath towel is not satisfactory. So, they still preferred ex -
tra large bath sheet which is much larger than the normal bath towel.
Styles and patterns
White is the most popular color for bath sheet. They also come in a variety of colors with beauti -
ful patterns but plain, single color bath sheets are preferred. Bath sheets can be customized ac-
cording to the specification of the customers. Monogram, embroidery and applique are also used
to add variety to the bath sheets.
Uses
To dry oneself after a bath, shower or a swim.
They can also be used as a makeshift sarong.
They can be wrap around to provide warmth.
They can be used to provide a cushy spot for sunbathing.
Tea towel
A tea towel is a cloth which is intended for the specific use of drying dishes and cutlery after
they have been washed. In addition, clean tea towels may be spread over a tea tray before tea
things are put onto it, or used to cover warm scones or a tea pot to prevent heat loss. Many
kitchen supply stores sell tea towels. They are also readily obtainable in England and Ireland,
two nations well known for their tea. Some people confuse the tea towel with the dish rag.
Materials used
Linen is the traditional fiber for tea towels, since it can be used to dry delicate plates and silver-
ware without the risk of scratching. Towels made from cotton are not uncommon Absorbent cot-
ton or linen can be cut down to size and hemmed to prevent stray threads.
Steps of operation involved to improve the product quality:
Quality control department
In-House Quality Control
Test Equipment and Facilities
shabab Fabrics Ltd. has an in-house fabric weaving and checking section called Quality Assur-
ance department. Every individual employee is jointly responsible for the quality the products
and consequently for our success.
Quality Grading System
For Piece Towel Piece Grading.
For Continuous Terry Fabric 4 point system.
Defect Classification (Four- Point System):
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Size Defect Penalty
3 inches or less 1 Point
Over 3 inches, but less than 6 2 Points
Over 6 inches, but less than 9 3 Points
Over 9 inches 4 Points
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are consid -
ered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would
cause a final garment to be considered a second.)
Major Defects:
Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns,
yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.
Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color
smear, or shading.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:
40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate
# of Points per 100 yds = # of penalty points x 100Yds inspected
Inspection Procedure:
Determine the amount to inspect
Select the rolls to inspect.
Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side
of the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards and use the strip to check for any
shading problems. Also make sure to check the end of the role.
Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects.
(The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes
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you may have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a gar -
ment.
Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.
Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.
Record any defects.
Shading:
Shading is an important defect to catch prior to production. The bundler has the responsibility to
check for shade problems prior to allowing the bundles to be put into the line. Both rolls and
cuts should be checked for shading problems.
A 4 inch square swatch from every roll received should be cut. (It is important to obtain
a sample from every roll so that the rolls are checked 100%.
All samples should be laid out and grouped by shade. This area must be well lit in order
to properly shade the rolls.
Rolls should be grouped together accordingly by shade.
Quality Control Aspects:
Yarns for terry weavingYarns for weaving may be: (i) Grey yarns (ii) Processed yarns (bleached yarns, mercerised yarn, dyed yarn) Terry fabrics must be produced at a certain weight per square metre, using mostly 100% cotton yarns as Pile, ground and weft. Yarn counts that are normally used for pile warp yarns are: Ne 10, Ne12, Ne16, Ne 2/20, Ne 2/24, Ne10 etc. Count ranges used for ground warp yarns are: Ne10, Ne11, Ne 2/20, Ne2/24 etc. Count range for weft yarns are: Ne 2/20, Ne1/14, Ne1/12, Ne 2/24, Ne 2/16, etc. It is the pile yarns that contribute to more than 60% of total fabric weight. Mostly ring spun yarns are used as pile yarns. OE yarns also can be used as pile yarns and it depends upon cus-tomer requirements. Typical yarn quality requirements for pile warp yarn are given in Table 1.
Table - 1
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Acceptable Range
Parameters 16S C 2/24S C 10S
Count Cv %
Strength Cv %
CSP
Avg. TPI
Rkm
Rkm Cv %
Elongation %
Elongation Cv%
Imperfection/km
Hairiness index
<1.2
<5
2300
14.8
15.2
<8.5
4.8
<10.0
70
<10.8
<1.2
<5
2300
8.7
14.5
<8.5
4.3
<10.0
20
<11.2
<1.2
<5
2200
12.5
14
<8.5
5.8
<10
24
<11.1
WarpingBeam warping or direct warping is the preferred route for producing piece dyed terry fabrics while sectional warping is opted for yarn dyed fabric production.
(a) Control on incoming material (cones)
To ensure the production of a quality beam at sizing it is very essential to have a strict control on the incoming material. Apart from testing the cones for quality parameters (Table 1), the follow-ing measures have to be adopted.
A regular check on the lot number of cones in the carton boxes and the presence/absence of iden-tification mark on cones shall be established. Mixing up of yarns of different counts and cones of different lot numbers will lead to shade variation after dyeing. Check the weight of cones on sample basis and find out the weight variation of cones. A report on Cone weight variation shall be maintained. Cone density may also be checked periodically Proper material handling procedures has to be set and should be followed strictly.
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(b) Warping stage
Quality control measures: Speed of warping should be almost constant throughout the winding of the beam. Of course, run-ning the machine at slower speeds during the initial and final phase to control end breaks is al-lowable. Sort details (count, type of yarn, no. of ends/creel) and labeling on beam is to be checked for identification and traceability. Proper working of stop motions has to be checked to avoid missing ends in the beam. An end break study has to be done for each lot of material and the reason for end breaks has to be recorded and investigated. Packages causing repeated machine stops should be immediately replaced by the worker. Single end tension can be measured at different positions in the creel, ie. near the headstock, at the far-thest creel position, in the left side of the m/c, and in the right side of the m/c. Beam density can be checked at the left, centre and right side of the beam. Percentage of bottoms generated (Remnant %) has to be calculated for every creeling. For effi-cient warping operation, the remnant should be less than 1%. Temperature & RH conditions are to be maintained inside the department. Though the present day machines have mechanisms that automatically regulate the yarn tension, pressure on drum for beam density as per requirements, a random check on these parameters is must to produce a quality warpers beam.
SizingThe importance of sizing is well known and a proper sizing only can ensure loom efficiency and production of quality fabric. The percentage of size add-on depends on quality of yarn, ends/inch in the fabric, loom speed, etc. But the real performance of sized yarn is assessed by the incidence of end breaks in loom. End break study in the loom shed will give a clear picture on the quality of sizing. Sizing of pile yarns for terry weaving usually requires a low size add-on of 1 to 5% compared to 8 -14% of warp yarn for ordinary weaving. Ground yarns also require low size add-on especially if they are doubled yarns.
Still, the operation of sizing is very critical as poor sizing causes variety of production and qual-ity problems in loom shed. If yarns are not properly covered by the size, on exposure to abrasive actions in loom, the fibres from the yarn body will be pulled out, leading to the problem of “lint-ing” in terry fabrics. Linting is a major quality problem.
Quality control measures at sizing
Check the quality of size materials, Check the viscosity (using viscosity cup) and solid content (using refractometre) of size paste in both the cooking stage and also in sow box. Sizing quality study has to be done for full beam, at least once in a shift for every machine and the incidence of lappers and migratory ends has to be recorded. Check the creel tension, braking
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pressure of creel beam, feed tension of yarn before sow box, sow box temperature, nip pressure (squeezing), drying zone temperature, beam pressing pressure, winding tension and % stretch. These parameters are automatically regulated in automatic sizing machines as per requirements. A random check on % moisture in the sized beam is essential even for automatic sizing machines that have automatic control. Every sized beam has to be weighed and % size add-on is to be cal-culated & recorded. Tensile testing of sized yarn may also be carried out to ascertain the im-provement in strength.
Terry weaving
The production of terry fabrics require the use of two beams, one beam for the ground structure and the other for pile structure. Generally warp density varies between 10-15 ends/cm in ground and as well as pile. In denser construction it ranges between 15-18 ends/cm. The pile ratio of 1:4 to 1:8 is used depending on the end use of terry fabrics. Pile ratio is the length of pile yarn to the length of terry fabric.
Quality control measures at loom shed
A typical loom card data for production of a terry towel fabric is shown in Table 2 and the for-mation of a three pick terry structure is shown in Figure 1.
Table 2
Sort number
Grey size (cm)
Finished size (cm)
Ground yarn count
Pile yarn count
Weft
Pile ends/towel
Ground ends/towel
GSM
Picks per cm
Pile ratio
Pile height (cm)
Towel weight (g)
R02312
145 x 85
137 x 76
11S
10S
2/20S
1020
1164
508
13
4.47
0.52
629.69
Figure1. Formation of a three picks terry structure
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a) First Piece Inspection
For every new sort, on production of few metres of fabric, the fabric has to be inspected for the following against the customer requirements. Weight per square metre (GSM) Pile ratio, Dimensions (length, width, size of design portion, etc), End/inch, picks/inch Loops/sq inch, and any defects.
b) Control on weight per square metre of terry fabrics
Terry fabrics are sold on weight basis and hence a control on fabric weight is of paramount im-portance. Weight/square metre (GSM) of terry fabrics are generally in the range of 360-670 grams. Companies mainly use standard warp and weft yarn counts as well as warp density. For required terry weight per square metre, the weft density and pile length are the parameters to be adjusted. The length of pile in relation to the length of terry fabric is measured in terms of pile ratio. The pile ratio, pile height and weft density (picks/cm) are related by the expression,
Pile height (in cm) = (Pile ratio/Picks per cm) x 0.5 x Type of terry
(c) Online and offline inspections
On-line inspection in looms should ensure that defects are identified and rectified in the loom stage itself. In fact, on loom inspection gives a clear idea not only on the defects, but also on the quality of warp beams, quality of weft yarn, condition of m/c, operator skill, etc. Off-line inspection, which is grey inspection of fabrics, is normally carried out on sample basis and the defects are to be properly identified and recorded. 100% Grey inspection is necessary only if the online inspections are not effective in controlling the defects. The doff weight and di-mensions of relaxed fabrics are checked in grey inspection stage.
Defects can also be classified as Major and Minor depending on its intensity. For example, temple mark that is visible as thin lines in grey inspection stage may not show up after processing stage. This can be considered as a minor defect. However, if the lines are very prominent and had disturbed the loop structure, it is certain that they will show up well after pro-cessing. Then it should be considered as a major defect. In this regard, training of quality person-nel about various types of defects in fabrics and its implication on the final quality of the product is a must.
Quality control measures at Dyeing and Finishing shed
* After getting color sample from Buyer, Lab-dip should be done accordingly and check fastness
of lab sample according to Buyer’s requirement and get approval from Buyer.
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* In bulk dyeing Q.A. dept. should match bulk sample with approved sample and ensure there is
no uneven and patchy dyeing.
* Q.A. dept should ensure that there is no pulling of pile and pilling or other defect comes from
dyeing machinery.
Quality control measures at Stitching shed
* Q.A. dept check stitching of towel in line and ensure there is no fake stitching and also check
label attachment.
* Q.A. dept check measure length, width, G.S.M. and other defect randomly every day and make
a report of that day.
* When stitching dept will pack at least 1500 Pcs towel, then Q.A. dept will check it in AQL sys-
tem if not pass then all towel should be rechecked again by the stitching dept.
Quality Assurance Policy
Lab test:
1. Yarn count
2. Strength of yarn
3. T.P.I
4. Moisture content
5. Thick and Thin place
...Then the yarn will be received by store.
Warping check point:
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i. Lot mixing: To avoid lot mixing before taking on the creel for warping,
every cone should be checked by Q.A. Dept. and must give a sign on the warping
plan paper.
ii. Design check: After arranging creel with colored yarn when pass the leas-
ing reed Q.A. dept. should check the design arrangement, if ok then sign.
iii. When warping going on then a black scale or white scale must be put un-
der the yarn to check count variation.
iv. To avoid the count mixing in re-coning, Q.A. dept. must ensure that there
is cone sticker to identify count and lot number.
Sizing:
i. Q.A. dept must check elongation of sized yarn.
ii. Q.A. dept must check sized creel or pre-beam creel to ensure all beam are for same
programmed.
Weaving:
i. Weft yarn should be checked to ensure that no count, lot and color mixing.
ii. Q.A. must check G.S.M., PPI and EPI, Length of Towel, Width of Towel, Fancy
boarder size.
iii. Weaving dept. will have there own quality control wing to check and inform about
defect to the production wing.
iv. Q.A. make report sheet of individual shift and place it to manager.
Dyeing and Finishing:
i. After getting color sample from Buyer, Lab-dip should be done accordingly and
check fastness of lab sample according to Buyer’s requirement and get approval
from Buyer.
ii. In bulk dyeing Q.A. dept. should match bulk sample with approved sample and
ensure there is no uneven and patchy dyeing.
iii. Q.A. dept should ensure that there is no pulling of pile and pilling or other defect
comes from dyeing machinery.
Stitching:
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i. Q.A. dept check stitching of towel in line and ensure there is no fake stitching and
also check label attachment.
ii. Q.A. dept check measure length, width, G.S.M. and other defect randomly every
day and make a report of that day.
iii. When stitching dept will pack at least 1500 Pcs towel, then Q.A. dept will check it
in aqual system if not pass then all towel should be rechecked again by the stitch-