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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Table of Contents

    Introduction..........................................................................................................................3

    Chapter One - Tools.........................................................................................................5Chapter Two - Bill of Materials...........................................................................................9Chapter Three - Cockpit Components...............................................................................3Chapter !our - Constructin" the Center Base....................................................................9Chapter !i#e - Constructin" the $ides...............................................................................3Chapter $i% - The !orward Turtle &eck ' Instrument (anel )rch...................................*9Chapter $e#en - The )ft Cockpit )rch..............................................................................+Chapter ,i"ht - $kinnin" the Cockpit $ides......................................................................+5Chapter ine - $kinnin" the !orward Turtle &eck and Instrument (anel $upport )rch. .3Chapter Ten - $kinnin" the )ft Cockpit )rch...................................................................9Chapter ,le#en - !inishin" and Installin" the ,nd Caps.................................................../3

    Chapter Twel#e - )ssem0lin" the Cockpit........................................................................9Chapter Thirteen - Buildin" the Monitor $upport &eck..................................................13Chapter !ourteen - Buildin" the 2indscreen..................................................................3Chapter !ifteen Buildin" the Canop4...........................................................................53Chapter $i%teen !inal )ssem0l4 ' !inishin" Tips......................................................+)ppendi% ) eference &rawin"s................................................................................./5

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 6

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Introduction

    !irst of all I7d like to thank 4ou for 4our interest in this &I8 Cockpit (roect. Ihope 4ou "et as much eno4ment out of 0uildin" and simmin" in it as I did desi"nin" and0uildin" it m4self.

    This first proect is optimisticall4 called the :$eries One; cockpit. It7s m4 hopethat there will more &I8 Cockpit desi"ns to co#er other "eneral t4pes of aircraft.

    )s a first endea#or< I look forward to "ettin" feed0ack from 4ou and 4our fellow0uilders. There is a mailin" list set up for 4our use at the followin" address=

    http!""###.si$pits.org"$ail$an"listin%o"diy&cockpit

    There is also a we0-0ased forum a#aila0le at http=>>www.simpits.or">forum. $eethe messa"e 0oard called :?ene@s &I8 Cockpits;. (lease note that the mailin" list andthe we0 forum are completel4 separate and don@t share content. If 4ou post a Auestion inone place< it won@t appear in the other.

    I encoura"e participation in the mailin" list and the forum as input ormodifications from 4our fellow 0uilders ha#e the potential to make a "ood desi"n e#en0etter.

    One thin" I7#e learned durin" the construction of this proect is that nothin" is11 perfect. 8ou7ll run into thin"s like the seams won7t mate completel4< etc. I7#edone m4 0est to make sure that all the parts fit and thin"s line up< 0ut remem0er< we7reworkin" with wood. There will 0e differences 0etween what I show and what 4ou end

    up with. It7s not the end of the world. 2ood putt4 and paint can hide an4 num0er ofsins. &on7t worr4 a0out it.

    If 4ou ha#e an4 Auestions or pro0lems< please don7t hesitate to send me an email m4 address is "ene0deltasoft.com.

    I7d like to thank o00i Dommel for 0ein" a "reat soundin" 0oard< e#en if hedidn7t know what I was up to most of the time.

    I7d also like to thank &a#id )llen for puttin" up with m4 stupid In#entorAuestions until I finall4 "ot a "rip on what I was doin".

    To all on the $impits-Tech list at simpits.or"< thanks for puttin" up with m4constant harpin" a0out this proectE 8ou "u4s are the 0estE

    On to the "ood stuff.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 3

    http://www.simpits.org/forumhttp://www.simpits.org/forummailto:[email protected]:[email protected]://www.simpits.org/forum
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    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *

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    Dere7s a list of some 0asic tools that 4ou7re "oin" to need in order to 0uild thisproect. The47re in no real order and frankl4< the4 occur as I think of them.

    . ) Fi" saw with suita0le 0lades for cuttin" M&! or O$B< dependin" on what 4ourmaterial of choice is "oin" to 0e for the cockpit. (awn shops are a "ood place to find

    these especiall4 the hea#4 dut4 Gph4sicall4 prett4 hea#4 as wellH ones. The hea#ier theFi" $aw< the 0etter cut 4ou7ll "et out of it. The wei"ht helps counteract the reciprocatin"action of the 0lade and reduces the tendenc4 of the saw to :ump;.

    6. ) "ood electric screw dri#er. 8ou will "o out of 4our mind if 4ou tr4 dri#in" allthe needed screws 04 hand. Trust me on this. Two models I use are the 4o0i ithium*J dri#er GModel K D(*H and the $kil iLo6ithium Ion dri#er. Both are "ood toolsand "et the o0 done. Make sure 4ou7#e "ot the re"ular (D6 (hillips tip as well as thelar"er (D3 tip. The (D3 tip is used in the ;%61 flat head screws that are used to attachthe end caps. ) (D6 in too small to dri#e them :properl4;.

    3. ) set of "ood drill 0its. $ince 4ou7re not "oin" to 0e doin" an4 serious metaldrillin" Gat least for the parts I7m showin" 4ouH< an4 cheap set will "et the o0 done. Mostof the holes 4ou7re "oin" to 0e drillin" are ; for 0olt holes and 5>+; holes for theplaces where 4ou7ll use the ; T-uts. 8ou7ll also 0e drillin" Auite a few >+*; pilotholes for K/ screws. This of course leads to

    *. ) "ood drill. I prefer a 0atter4 powered one I "et more fle%i0ilit4 out of it andno cord to "et in the wa4. I personall4 use a Makita 9.+# as well as a Black ' &ecker/# !ire $torm. (rett4 much an4 "ood drill will ser#e 4our needs thou"h.

    5. ) >+; socket wrench. )ll the ;-61 he% head 0olts need this siNe.

    +. ) de#ice called a :Micro $top;. This is an aircraft metalworkin" tool that is usedto create countersinks for flat head ri#ets. In this proect it7s used to countersink in woodfor screw heads. 8ou can7t swin" a 0at without hittin" a pile of these thin"s on eBa4.The47re prett4 ine%pensi#e and 4ou can "et the two 0its 4ou need on line from )ircraft$pruce. The two cutters 4ou7ll need are the ; and K/ screw cutters. G)ircraft $pruce(art Ks 6-11// and 6-119* respecti#el4H

    Here is an example of a typical Micro-Stop

    The reason I specif4 these is that 04 usin" a Micro-$top< 4ou can control the depthof the countersink and that7s #er4 important< especiall4 if 4ou7re a no#ice woodworker.The cutters are 11 de"ree while all the fasteners we7ll 0e usin" are /6 de"ree< 0ut itworks out ust fine.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered +

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    . ) circular saw. )n4 ->6; circular saw will work. If 4ou don7t ha#e onealread4< check out the local pawn shops. 8ou can usuall4 "et a "ood deal on a hi"hAualit4 saw that wa4. Go0 has "ottenstealon a ma"nesium chassis worm dri#e saw thatwa4.H

    /. ) ta0le saw. 8ou knew this was comin"< didn7t 4ou

    $eriousl4< a ta0le saw isliterall4 reAuired Gunless 4ou7re some kind of "od with a circular sawH in order to makethe canop4 and windscreen frame options. Pnfortunatel4< this doesn7t mean a ta0le-topta0le saw. The4 don7t ha#e the depth of throat reAuired to accommodate the windscreenand canop4 frame parts that need to ha#e an"les cut in them. Dowe#er< this is a ?,)Te%cuse to "et that full siNed ta0le saw 4ou alwa4s wanted< ri"ht )"ain< hit the pawnshops 4ou7d 0e surprised what 4ou can find there.

    9. ) 2i%e4 &i"ital )n"le ?au"e. If 4ou7re "oin" to make the windscreen andcanop4 for 4our cockpit< 4ou MP$T 0e a0le to set the 0lade an"le of the ta0le saw to 63.5de"rees. This is the 0est wa4 I7#e found to do this. This little thin" paid for itself the

    first time I used it. This is an item that ockler sells http=>>www.rockler.comis theaddress of their site. Be warned thou"h< therein lies Much Tool (orn. 8ou7#e 0eenwarned.

    1. $elf-Centerin" pilot drills. These little "ad"ets come in reall4 hand4 wheninstallin" hin"es or 0rackets that ha#e pre-drilled holes. othin" makes a person madderthan "ettin" the pilot hole ust a 0it off center and ha#in" the screw ruin the ali"nment ofwhat 4ou7re workin" on. This is a nice to ha#e a"ain< the47re a#aila0le at ockler orprett4 much an4 other fine #endor of woodworker Tool (orn.

    . ) router. If 4ou7#e purchased the router templates< 4ou7re "oin" to need a "oodrouter and a router ta0le. 8ou7ll also need a ; flush trim 0it with a ; shank. This 0itis unusual 0ecause the 0earin" is also ;< which is reAuired in order to na#i"ate theinterior slot cuts on the templates. MC$ 2oodworkin" sells these - Q9.51 for the ;#ersion GMC$ (> 5*99H. This cutter or one e%actl4 like it is reAuired in order to usethe router templates. )n4 0it with a 0earin" siNe of "reater than ; won7t fit.

    6. ) "ood Com0ination $Auare. 8ou7ll use this to draw centerlines alon" parts. It7sa prett4 slick techniAue for those that ha#en7t done it 0efore.

    Combination Square

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered

    http://www.rockler.com/http://www.rockler.com/http://www.rockler.com/
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    3. ast 0ut not least< 4ou are pro0a0l4 "oin" to want to "et 4ourself a (in ailer.This is an air-powered tool that 4ou can use to tack to"ether assem0lies as well as attachthe skin. The model that places like Dar0or !rei"ht Tools carr4 is prett4 0asic and willonl4 set 4ou 0ack a0out Q31< not includin" the air compressor 4ou7ll need. Check out thelocal pawn shop for a "ood second hand compressor. The smaller :pancake; st4le will 0e

    perfectl4 adeAuate for the nailer.

    *. ) small mallet that has a two sided head one side is made of ru00erR the other ismade of a hard plastic. This will come in hand4 when 4ou7re installin" the ri0s.

    (lease note that power tools will do their #er4 0est to at least maim 4ou the instantthat 4ou stop pa4in" attention. )lwa4s pa4 attention to the warnin"s "i#en a0out thetools 4ou7re usin" and alwa4s and I mean ALWAYSwear safet4 "lassesE

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered /

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Chapter Two - Bill of Materials

    or :Oh m4 "od< what ha#e I "otten m4self into;

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 9

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    Dere7s a list of the 0asic materials 4ou7ll need in order to create the parts neededfor 4our cockpit. ote that I will refer to 0oth O$B GOriented $trand BoardH and M&!GMedium &ensit4 !i0er0oardH interchan"ea0l4 throu"hout these instructions. The planswere created so that 4ou could use either or 0oth of those primar4 materials for thecockpit< dependin" on 4our 0ud"et. ote that Auantities listed for the specified fasteners

    are not cast in stone. I ha#e used more or less durin" the actual 0uild for this manual.The onl4 count cast in stone is the Auantit4 of ; >*-61 flat head screws.

    . SS + *7%/7 sheets of either ; M&! or >+; O$B. If 4ou7re reall4 careful< 4oucan "et 04 with 5 sheets 04 carefull4 optimiNin" the material use. The last sheet is usedfor the center section and the remainder of that sheet is ripped down into strin"ers.

    6. SS 6 *7%/7 sheets of >/; Tempered Dard0oard. This is used for the skins as wellas the instrument panel.

    3. SS 91 ;-61 T-uts. 8es< )0of them. The47re used throu"hout the cockpit in

    order to help make assem0l4 Gand disassem0l4EH much easier. I stron"l4 su""est 4ou 0u4these in 0ulk if 4ou can. 8ou can 0u4 a 0o% of 11 from Bolt&epot.com for a0out Q.

    *. SS or K/-36 Threaded Inserts. These are used when 4ou mount theinstrument panel. If 4ou7re 0uildin" the windscreen option< 4ou7ll need for the panel< if4ou7re not 0uildin" the windscreenR the other panel reAuires inserts to mount. otethat for the windscreen instrument panel< 4ou can use either the threaded inserts for K/screws or t-nuts threaded for K1 screws. The inserts are similar to the picture 0elow.

    These are the ones I use, McFeelys P! is "#$"-STS-%&

    5. SS 53 ;-61< ; !lat Dead $crews. These are used to attach the end caps and theupper section caps.

    +. SS 3 ;-61< ->6; !lat Dead $crews. These are used in the upper section caps.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 1

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    . SS + 6->6; wide hin"es with remo#a0le pins. * of them are used on the end capdoors< 6 on the monitor deck if 4ou7re 0uildin" that. Gonl4 for the windscreen 0uildersH

    /. SS ->6; wide piano hin"e. This is onl4 for those 0uildin" the canop4. Istron'lyrecommend that 4ou purchase one that 4ou can easil4 remo#e the hin"e pin

    from. )ircraft $pruce carries these in 3+; len"ths for a0out Q+. 8ou can su0stitute 6 6->6; hin"es if 4ou like.

    9. SS 1 ;-61< 3.5; he% head 0olts G5 on each side are used to mate the sides to thecenter sectionH

    1. SS * 3; caster wheels. 8ou can use lar"er wheels if 4ou7#e "ot them< 0ut I wouldrecommend a"ainst usin" an4thin" smaller. The lar"er wheel helps when mo#in" thecockpit around and the e%tra hei"ht is hand4 if 4ou decide to use the Fentron ?im0alGhttp=>>www."ene0.or">pitkit>entronSmk6>H.

    . SS + ;-61< ; he% head 0olts Gused for attachin" the wheels to the centersection.

    6. SS 6+ ; flat washers. Psed in #arious places.

    3. SS 0o% Gminimum of 11H K/< ->*; flat head wood screws. 8ou7ll use thesemostl4 to attach the deckin" to the 6%* framin" for the 0ase of the cockpit. Thewindscreen also uses a num0er of these*. SS small 0o% of ; K/ flat head wood screws. These are needed onl4 for thewindscreen.

    5. SS small 0o% or 3>*; K/ flat head wood screws. These are needed onl4 for thewindscreen.

    +. SS 5 6%*< /7 lon". These are used for framin" the left< ri"ht and center sections.I should note that :6%*; in this case means a t4pical P$ :framin" stud; which is actuall43->6; % ->6;. Gust in case those of 4ou o#erseas find a real 6;%*; 0oardH

    . SS $crap U; (l4wood this will 0e used to 0uild the two 5; % 63->/; castersupports for the main 0ase. The 5; width can 0e fud"ed a 0it if 4ou can find 4ourself a1; wide % 6*; lon" scrap. 8ou should 0e a0le to 0u4 a small 6*%6* sheet of U; )Cpl4wood at 4our local home center if 4ou don7t ha#e an4 scraps a#aila0le.

    /. SS / ; K+ flat head screws. Psed to hold the end ri0s in place for the cockpitsides.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered

    http://www.geneb.org/pitkit/jentron_mk2/http://www.geneb.org/pitkit/jentron_mk2/
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    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 6

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    Chapter Three - Cockpit Components

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 3

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    There are 3* 0asic part shapes used to 0uild the $eries One cockpit< not includin":stock; material like 6%*s and cut to siNe strin"ers. 8ou ma4 or ma4 not use all the partsdependin" on the options 4ou choose to 0uild. (lease refer to the reference drawin"s in)ppendi% ) for part locations.

    Dere is an o#er#iew of each part and how man4 of each 4ou7ll need.(art K Vt4 &rawin" ame &escription

    6

    i"ht cockpitside narrow+;< not the ; specifiedin the drawin". The outside 0arrel diameter of the t-nut is ust a 0it smaller than 5>+;.

    These holes are onl4 to 0e drilled in the parts used ateither end of the left and ri"ht sides. There7s no needto drill them in the other parts.

    If 4ou7re not 0uildin" the windscreen and canop4canop4option is not used.

    6/ *Monitor &eck Monitor &eck on"erons

    Onl4 used with 2indscreen option.

    69 * Monitor &eck Monitor &eck i0s

    31 Monitor &eck Monitor &eck !ace

    3 6)lternate Instrument (anel $upport )rchesThese are onl4 used with the windscreen option andare the matin" part to (art K6+.

    36 !orward turtle deck end cap.This part attaches to the !orward Turtle &eck)ssem0l4.

    33 Cockpit Center $ection.

    3* 6

    i"ht cockpitside narrow+; O$B or ; M&!H

    6 6; 6%* !ore ' )ft ends

    *6 K/ ->*; wood screws

    66 K/ 6->6; wood screws

    + >*;-61 ; he% head 0olts

    + ; washers

    + -61 t-nuts

    * 3; Caster wheels

    ; drill 0it

    5>+; drill 0it

    >+*; drill 0it Gused for pilot holes for K/ screwsH Micro-stop Gor other countersink 0itH

    The first thin" to do is take 4our four 6; 6%*s and clamp them to"ether at theends and then mark them like this=

    This is done in order to make sure that when 4ou drill the mountin" holes for theside sections Gthe ne%t stepH< the left and ri"ht side mountin" holes will ali"n perfectl4.B4 drillin" 0oth parts at the same time 4ou don7t ha#e to worr4 a0out "ettin" twoidentical hole la4outs done on each part.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 61

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    ea#in" the parts clamped to"ether< make a mark on the wide face of the top 6%*at 3+;. Then measure *->6; from that point and make another mark. Mo#e another *->6; down and make another mark. &o the same on the :other; side of the first 3+;mark. 8ou should ha#e fi#e eAuall4 spaced marks alon" the len"th of the 6%* now.

    Take 4our com0ination sAuare and set it up so that onl4 -3>*; is stickin" past theflat ed"e of the sAuare< like this=

    8ou7re then "oin" to dra" a pencil and the com0ination sAuare alon" the top of

    the 6%* in order to make a centerline alon" the whole 0oard< like this=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 6

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    &o this on 0oth 4our paired 6%*s and then drill a ; hole throu"h 0oth of theclamped 6%*s at the marked locations. )fter 4ou7#e done this< chan"e to a 5>+; drill 0itand drill out the ; holes that are in the parts marked :left side; and :ri"ht side;. 8ou7llinstall ;-61 t-nuts into these holes later.

    The 0ase frame consists of two 6; 6%*s and 6 6; 6%*s. These parts are attachedwith the / 6->6; wood screws listed a0o#e. ote that these screws are not meant to 0estructural. The47re onl4 there to hold the frame to"ether until the cockpit floor isinstalled.

    Clamp the ends of the framin" to"ether like this=

    )fter clampin" 0oth ends to"ether as shown a0o#e< #erif4 that the corners are assAuare as 4ou can make them this is #er4 important. )lso< "ra0 a tape measure andcheck to make sure that the width of the frame as measured from the outside surface ofthe 6%*s is 6*;. If it7s not< 4ou need to make sure that 4ou7#e cut the shorter 6%* part toe%actl4 6;.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 66

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    ow that 4ou7re all sAuared up< place two screws at each corner like this=

    Before 4ou mount the cockpit floor to the 0ase frame< 4ou should mark the sidesof 4our 6%*s with the same markin"s 4ou put on the top in the first step. 2hat I7mtalkin" a0out looks like this=

    This is done to help 4ou identif4 which side 4ou7re workin" on after the cockpitfloor is installed.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 63

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    $et 4our com0ination sAuare to U; and draw a line around the entire perimeter ofthe 6%6* cockpit floor section. If 4ou start at the far end and walk 0ackwards< it7s aeasier. Fust hold the pencil tip to the center of the ruler in the com0ination sAuare andslide the pencil and the sAuare alon" at the same time.

    8ou should end up with lines that look like these=

    Measurin" from where the lines intersect at the corner< I want to 4ou to put amark e#er4 *->6;. These are 4our screw location marks. It7s not perfect as the screw

    location from the last mark 4ou make on the lon" ed"e to a corner won7t 0e *->6; fromthe corner line intersection< 0ut that7s oka4. &o the same alon" the short ed"es. Theshort span will onl4 ha#e four marks on it.

    )ppl4 a 0ead of "lue on the top of the 0ase frame and set the cockpit floor on it.&rill >+*; pilot holes in to corners alon" the lon" ed"e. 8ou now need to make sure thatthe frame is sAuare to the floor. ) 0i" help to "ettin" the frame sAuared to the floor is touse clamps to :pull; it sAuare. If 4ou don7t ha#e a sin"le clamp that can span 6; easil4*; and draw a line alon" the lon" ed"e of the wheel mountin" plate asshown in the picture on the ne%t pa"e.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 6+

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    This line shows 4ou where the :front; ed"e of the 6%* will 0e when the plate ismounted to the cockpit floor. 2hen 4ou install 4our casters on this plate< 4ou7ll want thelon" ed"e of the caster 0ase to 0e e#en with this line< as shown 0elow=

    The short ed"e of the caster should 0e placed a0out 6; from the outside ed"e ofthe mountin" plate. Mark and drill 4our hole centers with a smaller 0it G>*; will workfineH 4ou7re now "oin" to o#er-drill them to 5>+; in order to install the -61 T-nuts onthe underside of the mountin" plate.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 6

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    The simplest wa4 to set the t-nuts into the wood is to do it at the same time 4ouinstall the casters. Fust hold the t-nut in the mountin" hole and thread in the ; -61 he%head 0olt Gand washerEH throu"h the first mountin" hole in the caster 0ase plate. epeatwith the rest and as 4ou ti"hten the 0olts< the pron"s will 0e drawn into the wood. 8ouwant the t-nut to 0e ti"htl4 flush a"ainst the woodR cuttin" into it a 0it is oka4 too.

    )fter 4ou7#e "ot all four casters mounted on the two 0ase plates< 4ou need to

    mount those plates on to the 0ottom of the cockpit center section. $et 4our com0inationsAuare for U; and draw center lines alon" the short ed"es of the mountin" plate and alon"the lon" ed"e that will 0e o#er the 6%*. Mark the side hole centers U; from the ed"e ofthe 0oard. Mark the 6; point alon" the lon" ed"e and to +; on either side of that mark.&rill pilot holes and countersink. ,ach end takes 6->6; wood screws as shown 0elow=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 6/

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    e%t< 4ou should e%pand the side holes to 5>+; and "et the 1 t-nuts installed=

    8ou now ha#e a complete center section for 4our cockpit or the lar"est skate0oard4ou7#e e#er seen< "uaranteed to do 4ou "rie#ous 0odil4 inur4 the first time 4ou take itoutside.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Chapter Five - Constructing the ides

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    ow it7s time to 0uild the two side sections. The4 are 0uilt opposite of eachother< so please take care to not make two left or two ri"ht sidesE

    !or this assem0l4< 4ou7re "oin" to need the followin" materials=

    Vt4 &escription6 6; 6%* Psed for left ' ri"ht cockpit side support frames

    6 (art K6 Cockpit side 0ase plates

    * 5; 6%* Psed for the left ' ri"ht cockpit side support frames

    ** K/ ->*; wood screws

    / K/ 6->6; wood screws

    * (art K< standard ri0 with end cap mountin" holes

    + (art K< standard ri0 with no holes

    1 (art K6< cockpit section ri0s

    6 (art K< standard ri0 with instrument panel mountin" holes

    (art K3* cockpit rail GleftH

    (art K3* cockpit rail Gri"htH6 (art K1 forward section lon"eron

    6 (art K+ aft section lon"eron

    1 6; ; % ; strin"ers

    >+*; drill 0it Gused for pilot holes for K/ screwsH

    Micro-stop Gor other countersink 0itH

    Two face ru00er mallet Gone with ru00er on one side and plastic on theotherH.

    The first thin" I need to talk a0out 0efore we 0e"in is the cockpit rails. Thecockpit rails are made from U; stock 4ou can use pine< M&!< pl4wood or whate#er

    4ou7#e "ot hand4 that7s U; thick. The protot4pe used U; pine and the one I7m 0uildin"alon" with 4ou uses the new rail desi"n in M&!.

    The old st4le rail in the protot4pe wasn7t notched the notches in the updatedrails ser#e to 0oth ali"n the cockpit section rails and to a#oid the e%tra filler material0etween the ri0s that was reAuired durin" the skinnin" phase of the protot4pe. The newdesi"n reAuires that 4ou ha#e a ta0le saw and a "ood an"le "au"e.

    If 4ou don7t ha#e a ta0le saw< 4ou can still make the new rail desi"n< 0ut 4ou7llneed to narrow it down 04 5>+; on the side with the notches on it. This will allow therail to continue to act as a ri0 spacer and will also reduce the amount of :filler; 4ou7ll

    need to use 0efore skinnin" the sides.

    !or the ta0le saw users out there< 4ou need to cut two an"les in each cockpit rail keep in mind that there I$ a left and a ri"htE If 4ou7re not careful 4ou can easil4 end upwith two parts for the same side.

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    The first an"le 4ou7re "oin" to cut is 33 de"rees. $et up 4our ta0le saw so 4ouran"le "au"e G4ou (i("et a di"ital an"le "au"e< didn7t 4ouH looks like this=

    ow that 4ou7#e "ot the saw 0lade set at the ri"ht an"le< 4ou need to to lower ituntil the hi"hest point on the 0lade is U; from the ta0le surface=

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    This is done 0ecause the ne%t step is to position the ta0le saw fence e%actl4 6-5>+; from the hi"hest point on the saw 0lade=

    Once 4our fence is set< 4ou can mo#e the 0lade up ust a little 0it. !or those thatha#en7t done this 0efore< in order to "et the correct distance from the fence to the insidesurface of the 0lade< 4ou7#e "ot to "et the 0lade set at the same hei"ht as the material4ou7re cuttin"< otherwise the pitched an"le of the 0lade will cause 4our distancemeasurement to 0e incorrect.

    2hen 4ou cut the left rail< position it into the saw with the two notches that areclose to"ether are the :start; point< like this=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 3*

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    The ri"ht side rail should 0e positioned so that the two notches are opposite ofhow 4ou positioned it for the left side cut=

    2hen 4ou7re done< 4ou should ha#e a pair that looks ust like this=

    ow 4ou need to trim the rail down 04 a0out >/; or so. $et 4our ta0le saw for 6-

    3>+;. 8ou7re "oin" to trim the :point4; ends off of the rails in order to make the ne%tGlast< I promiseEH 0e#el cut on the rail to finish its shape.

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    2hen 4ou7re done with the cut< it should look like this=

    The ne%t 0e#el cut is kind of trick4< so please take 4our time and 0e J,86; wood screws.!or the screws that will "o into the 5; part< measure 0ack U; from the outside ed"e of the

    part< mark that point and a"ain at 3;.

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    In order to help orient 4ourself with how the sides fit< ust remem0er that thecockpit side floors ha#e a 0i" notch towards the aft end of each. )lso remem0er that thenotches face outward< :pointin"; the same direction that the 5; 6%* ends do. In order tokeep it strai"ht for m4self 0efore I mo#ed to the ne%t step< I set the sides up like the4would 0e if the4 were installed=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *1

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    )fter makin" sure that 4ou7re not makin" two of the same side< run a 0ead of "luealon" the top of the 6%*s. $et the floor down on the su0-frame and "et it all ali"ned.

    &rill a pilot hole at the line intersection on the aft end. Countersink and screw thisdown. e-check the ali"nment a"ainst the 6%*. 8ou want the :inside; ed"e of the floor

    to 0e flush with the :inside; ed"e of the su0-frame. 2hen 4ou7re done< it should looklike this=

    ow "o ahead and 0uild the other side usin" the same steps we ust did for this

    side. 2hen 4ou7re all done< 4ou should ha#e this=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    ow it7s time to start settin" ri0s on those new floor frames 4ou ust 0uiltE

    8ou want to make sure 4ou "et a "ood fit on these< 0ut not so ti"ht 4ou ha#e tonearl4 0eat them to death with a hammer to "et them set in. I can "uarantee 4ou that if4ou hit a ri0 too hard< 4ou7ll 0reak it. It7s happened to me twice< once on the protot4pe

    and a"ain when writin" this documentation. The notches are all .*; wide< which willser#e 0oth O$B and M&! users< howe#er if 4ou7re "oin" to use M&!< 4ou MP$T ensurethat the fit is snu"< 0ut not so ti"ht as to pre#ent 4ou from installin" the ri0 withoutresortin" to 0eatin" it in with the mallet. I recommend usin" some +1 "rit sandpaper"lued to some >6; stock to help widen the slots a 0it if 4ou@re usin" M&!.

    The ri0s that are installed on either end ha#e a num0er of holes in them to acceptthe t-nuts for the end cap mountin". These holes need to 0e 5>+; in order to accept the0arrel of the t-nut.

    The easiest wa4 to "et these installed is to place the t-nut in the 0ack of the ri0 andthen insert a ; he% head 0olt with a washer on it from the other side. Ti"hten it full4 toseat the t-nut into the material.

    If 4ou7re not "oin" to use the windscreen ' canop4 option< now is a #er4 "ood

    time to install the si% K1-6* T-uts Gthree each sideH used to attach the lower instrumentpanel to the cockpit. &oin" it now will sa#e 4ou "rief a0out it later on.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *6

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    The end ri0s are installed 04 "luin" ' screwin" the ri0s into place. &raw a linethat di#ides the 0ase notch and mark center points at 5>+; from each ed"e=

    )ppl4 "lue to the matin" surfaces on the ri0 and the cockpit floor and tap it intoplace. &rill two 3>36; pilot holes and countersink them. Install two ; K+ flat headscrews=

    ote that puttin" a screw in :end-"rain; on M&! is #er4 weak. This is ust doneto sta0iliNe the ri0 until the strin"ers and lon"erons are installed.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    !ollowin" the appropriate drawin" in )ppendi% ) Gleft ' ri"ht cockpit side partsarran"ementH< "o ahead and install the remainin" ri0s. epeat the steps outlined a0o#efor the other end-cap ri0s.

    e%t< 4ou7ll need to install the fore ' aft lon"erons as well as the cockpit rail.The aft lon"eron has two 5>+; holes in it to accept t-nuts=

    The aft lon"eron is attached with "lue and nailed into place with the pin nailer and

    U; /"a 0rads. If 4ou7re una0le to use that method< 4ou can also use 3>*; K+ screws< 0utmake sure 4ou take care installin" them. M&! and O$B do not take screws #er4 welled"e-on. (ilot holes are reAuired.

    2hen installin" the cockpit rail< make sure that the ri0 notches are not too ti"ht open them up a 0it with +1 "rit sandpaper if needed. 8ou don7t want to appl4 a lot offorce when installin" it or 4ou run the risk of 0reakin" one of the cockpit section ri0s.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered **

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    )ppl4 "lue to each notch and nail into place with ; /"a 0rads to each ri0< or use; K+ screws< followin" the caution I mentioned a0o#e.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *5

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    e%t up is the fore top lon"eron=

    Pnlike the aft lon"eron< this part has no t-nuts installed in it. If 4ou7re 0uildin"the windscreen for 4our cockpit< these holes are unused. If 4ou7re not "oin" to 0uild thewindscreen< these holes are used to attach the top turtle deck assem0l4 to the cockpit.

    ow it7s time to install the ; % ; % 6; strin"ers. The 0est wa4 to make these iswith a ta0le saw and scrap sheet material left o#er from cuttin" the parts out. 8ou7ll wantto cut a few test parts to "et the width of the strin"er ust ri"ht. The strin"er needs to 0e a

    ti"ht fit into the notches in the ri0s. ,ach ri0 notch needs to 0e "lued=

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    In order to seat the strin"er in each ri0 notch< 4ou7ll need to use a clamp to pressthe strin"er all the wa4 into the notch=

    &o OT tr4 to hammer the strin"er into place. 8ou7ll onl4 0reak the ri0. B4usin" the clamp as a press< 4ou can "et the strin"er installed properl4 without stressin"the ri0 structure. epeat this process for all fi#e strin"ers and 4ou7ll 0e done in no timeE

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *

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    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered */

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Chapter i! - The Forward Turtle "eck # Instrument $anel %rch

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *9

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    If 4ou7re "oin" to 0uild the windscreen ' canop4< 4ou can skip this section andmo#e on to Chapter $e#en< The )ft Cockpit )rch.

    !or this assem0l4< 4ou7re "oin" to need the followin" materials=

    Vt4 &escription

    6 (art K3 !orward &eck i0

    6 (art K* !orward &eck i0< instrument panel mount

    (art K*) Instrument panel support arch

    6 (art K/ !orward &eck on"eron

    6 (art K9 Instrument panel support arch strin"ers

    6 -61 T-uts

    The forward deck is a prett4 Auick 0uild. 8ou7ll need to take care that the middlenotch on the lon"erons is not too ti"ht ust like 0uildin" the sides< 4ou don7t want to

    0reak them while 4ou7re installin" them.

    The center notch in the lon"erons is offset a 0it< so 4ou need to make sure 4ouorient the parts to face :forward; when 4ou7re assem0lin" the deck. The easiest wa4 todo this is to identif4 which end is the :front; end. 8ou can do this from measurin" fromthe end of the lon"eron 0ack ;. The ; mark will put 4ou at the center of themountin" holes on the :forward; end of the center notch. )lso< the :forward; end of thecenter notch is -3>*; from the forward end of the lon"eron. Mark the forward end ofthe lon"erons with an arrow< like this=

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    8ou want to start off 04 mountin" the middle ri0 G(art K3H to each lon"eron at themiddle notch< like so=

    I will "uarantee 4ou without a shadow of a dou0t< if 4ou force the ri0 into thatnotch< 4ou7ll snap the lon"eron in half. I knowR I ust did it m4self. Make sure 4ou sandthe middle notches so the ri0 fits snu"l4< 0ut doesn7t reAuire much force to insert. ?luethe ri0 in place and pin it from 0elow with one or two /"a U; 0rads.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    e%t< 4ou7ll add the second lar"e ri0 to the front of the forward deck assem0l4=

    2hen attachin" this part< 4ou7ll need to put one /"a 0rad in the end and two onthe 0ottom< like so=

    It7s kind of difficult to see< 0ut the 0rads went in where 4ou see the materialdimpled. &on7t for"et to "lue this downE

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    e%t 4ou7re "oin" to install the instrument panel support ri0 it doesn7t actuall4support the instrument panel< 0ut it allows lon"er screws to 0e used if needed=

    ow it7s time to add the strin"ers. ?o ahead and place the #er4 top strin"er first+; >/; Tempered Dard0oard

    2hen skinnin" the cockpit< 4ou can opt to not use the >/; Tempered Dard0oardand use aluminum sheet instead. I won7t co#er how to attach it here< 0ut the la4outinstructions that follow will appl4.

    *ote! +% you hae a router( cut the skin to ,- in length. 'his #ill gie you

    so$e e/tra oerhang that #ill allo# you to hae per%ect coerage at the end caps

    in case there is a length error due to a slightly loose spacing tolerance on the sides.

    1ou can tri$ o%% the e/tra skin #ith a tri$ bit a%ter youe asse$bled the cockpit

    and installed the end caps.

    The first thin" 4ou7ll need to do after 4our skin material is cut is to draw a series

    of lines on it that will allow 4ou to properl4 attach the skin to the side frames.

    Measurin" alon" the lon" a%is of the skin material< I want 4ou to draw a series of9 lines=

    o. Measurement

    ;

    6 6 ;

    3 6* ;

    * 6/;

    5 3+ ;

    + */ ;

    +1 ;

    / +3 U;

    9 6

    These lines are alon" the :front; ed"e of each ri0 in the cockpit. )ll 4our 0rads

    will 0e used a0out a ; aft of each of these lines.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    e%t< 4ou need to make + parallel lines alon" the lon" a%is these will define thecenterline of each strin"er. Those measurements are=

    *o. 3easure$ent

    >/;

    6 ;

    3 3 ;

    * 9 ;

    5 65 ;

    + 6;

    Because the sides are mirror ima"es of themsel#es< 4ou7ll need to make sure that4ou don7t create two identical skins.

    The easiest wa4 to do that is to create la4outs with the horiNontal line set startin"on 4our left Gthe ; mark is the :start;H and call that the :left; side. Create the la4out onthe :ri"ht; sheet ust opposite that< with the ; line startin" on the :ri"ht; end of thesheet as 4ou7re facin" it. The lon" ed"e farthest awa4 from 4ou will 0e the :top; ed"efor 0oth parts and that is where 4ou measure to make 4our strin"er center lines.

    2hen 4ou7re done< 4ou should ha#e a la4out that looks somethin" like this=

    This drawin" shows the "eneral la4out of the whole skin panel and isrepresentati#e of what 4ou should ha#e on the left side. ow it7s time to attach the skin.8ou7ll need 4our pin nailer and ; 0rads for this. 8ou can also use screws if 4ou like+; andone at ; These mark the center lines for the strin"ers.

    )ppl4 "lue to onl4 the arch parts itself< not the end caps. 8ou don7t want theskins stickin" to parts 4ou7re "oin" to remo#e in a few minutes.

    )ppl4in" the top skin is ust as eas4 as the sides. &raw lines ; in from the lon"ed"es< ust like 4ou did with the side skins. Then< 4ou need to draw a line at 3-3>*; and1-3>*;. These are the centerlines for the top strin"ers. ?lue ' nail in place like thesides. ow remo#e the end caps and wipe off an4 e%cess "lue on them.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered /

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    The end result should look like this=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered /6

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Chapter &leven - Finishing and Installing the &nd Caps

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    !or this assem0l4< 4ou7re "oin" to need the followin" materials=

    Vt4 &escription

    6 (art K/ ,nd Cap

    6 (art K9 ,nd Cap )ccess &oor

    6 (art K ,nd Cap &ou0ler * 6->6; Ptilit4 hin"es with remo#a0le pins

    6 Ma"netic Ca0inet door catches

    6 Xno0s

    * K+ ; wood screws

    61 ;-61 T-uts G1 if 4ou7re 0uildin" the Canop4 ' 2indscreenH

    ** ;->*; !lat head screws G3* if 4ou7re 0uildin" the Canop4 ' 2indscreenH

    !irst up< 4ou7ll need to "et the t-nuts set into 0oth ,nd Cap &ou0lers GOnl4 one isused for the Canop4 ' 2indscreen modelH.

    If 4ou7re 0uildin" the canop4 ' windscreen option< it7s oka4 to ha#e drilled thetop row of holes in 0oth the end caps. 8ou can cut down the ; >*;-61 screws andepo%4 them into the holes.

    e%t up< 4ou7re "oin" to ha#e to countersink all the ; mountin" holes on 0othend caps as shown on the ne%t pa"e.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    ow 4ou need to "et a couple of len"ths of scrap material and use it to support the

    end cap< face up as shown=

    This is done to allow the support to "i#e 4ou a little space under the part for thehin"e screws to penetrate as well as to support the end cap door at the same hei"ht as theend cap itself.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    ow 4ou want to set the end cap door in place and then put spacers all around itto ensure that the door will remain centered in the openin" while 4ou install the twohin"es=

    The spacer thickness will 0e determined 04 how well 4ou cut out the hatch. $incemine are cut on the $hopBot< the spacin" is >/; all around 0ecause I used a >/;diameter cutter to cut out the door.

    e%t< 4ou want to place the hin"es ->*; from the top and 0ottom ed"es of thedoor openin". Make sure that the end of the hin"e that the pin is remo#ed from ispointin" to the top of the end cap as shown 0elow=

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    I recommend usin" a self-centerin" pilot hole 0it to drill the holes for the hin"es.The one I used is from ockler and is called a 5>+*; Inst4-&ri#e $elf Centerin" D$$ &rillBit for K* wood screws. The reason I used this is that the self-centerin" aspect of the toolensures that the pilot hole will 0e placed in the center of the hin"e mountin" hole. Thiswill pre#ent the flat head mountin" screw from shiftin" the hin"e awa4 from where 4ou

    wanted it as would happen if the hole was drilled off-center from the hin"e mountin"hole.2hen 4ou7re done< the hin"e installation should look somethin" like this=

    ow it7s time to carefull4 remo#e the spacin" 0locks from around the door andflip the end cap face down. The ne%t step will 0e to install the ma"netic door catch.

    The door catch is ust a simple ma"netic latch that 4ou can find at prett4 muchan4 hardware store. Cut a scrap of material rou"hl4 an inch wide 04 U; hi"h and lon"enou"h to support the ma"net assem0l4 as shown a0o#e.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    )ttach the mountin" 0lock to the 0ack side of the end cap< ri"ht a0out the middleof the door. I used 0oth "lue and a couple of ; /"a pins=

    ow install the metal plate on the door itself. )fter 4ou7#e done this< set thema"net assem0l4 on the metal plate and screw it into the mountin" 0lock as shown0elow=

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered //

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Two K+ screws should 0e used to reinforce the door catches like so=

    This will help pre#ent pressure on the door from knockin" the ma"netic catch offthe 0ack of the end cap.

    The ne%t thin" 4ou7re "oin" to want to do is take down the sharp points of thescrews that 4ou used to mount the hin"es. The47re "oin" to 0e stickin" up ust a little 0itproud of the surface. ) careful pass with a die "rinder or a metal file will take care ofthis Auickl4=

    )lternatel4< 4ou can 0ack the screw area with some >6; scrap stock that@s 0een"lued in place.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    )ll 4ou ha#e left to do is install whate#er kno0 or handle that 4ou7d like to useand 4ou7re doneE

    In the ne%t chapter< I7ll co#er assem0lin" the cockpit for those that are not "oin"to 0uild the windscreen and canop4 option. &on7t skip the ne%t chapter if 4ou are "oin"to 0uild that option howe#er. I7m onl4 "oin" to co#er the maor assem0l4 step once.

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Chapter Twelve - %ssembling the Cockpit

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 9

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    )ssem0lin" the cockpit out of the su0-components is #er4 eas4. ,#er4thin" 0oltsto"ether and pro#idin" 4ou7#e 0een careful durin" the 0uild< the parts should line upcorrectl4. The sides ma4 deform durin" construction< 0ut as 4ou assem0le the cockpitforum.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 1

    http://www.simpits.org/forumhttp://www.simpits.org/forumhttp://www.simpits.org/forum
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    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 16

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    Chapter Thirteen - Building the Monitor upport "eck

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    The Do it Yourself Cockpit Project Series One

    !or this assem0l4< 4ou7re "oin" to need the followin" materials=

    Vt4 &escription

    * (art K69 Monitor &eck i0

    * (art K6/ Monitor &eck $trin"er

    (art K31 Monitor &eck !ace

    The Monitor &eck is used on the &I8 cockpit to either support a standard monitoror the 0ottom ed"e of a proection screen.

    The assem0l4 will "o to"ether Auickl4 and is prett4 much self-ali"nin" as lon" as4ou7re careful.

    The parts

    )s 4ou can see this is prett4 simple to 0uild. It7s almost like assem0lin" Ikeafurniture. 8ou7re "oin" to want to dr4 fit the parts to make sure the4 "o fit properl4. Themonitor deck parts use notches that are a 0it lar"er and won7t reAuire 4ou to widen them a0it like the other M&! parts. If 4ou7re usin" O$B< the parts will 0e ust a little loose< soplease 0e careful in how the4 ali"n.

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    The first step is to assem0le the :core; of the deck usin" two ri0s and twostrin"ers like so=

    There shouldn7t 0e an4 need to use pins here< 0ut 4ou can if 4ou like. Fust makesure that 4ou7re usin" "lue on all the flat surfaces in the notches on all the parts.

    e%t< 4ou7re "oin" to add the outside ri0s=

    8ou7ll want to use two pins on the ends to help reinforce the "lue oint.

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    ow add the last two strin"ers to the sides of the deck assem0l4=

    Make sure to use two pins on each ri0 when attachin" this strin"er "lue isreAuired as wellE Be #er4 careful to ensure that 0efore 4ou start firin" pins into this that

    4ou7#e "ot the strin"ers sAuare to on another. If this is 0uilt :racked;< it will not fit thecockpit shell properl4E The easiest wa4 to check for this is to measure the top of theassem0led monitor deck dia"onall4 in an :L; pattern. 8ou should end up with the samemeasurement for 0oth :arms; of the :L;.

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    The last step 0efore it "ets skinned is to add the :face; of the monitor deck. Thisis the component that the hin"es will attach to later. 8ou want to take the deck assem0l4and flip it upside down like this=

    )s 4ou can see< the deck face has alread4 had "lue applied. 8ou want to positionthe deck face so that its 0ottom ed"es are perfectl4 in line with the monitor deck itself.(in and clamp into place.

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    ow whoe#er said 4ou can use too man4 clamps.ma4 ha#e 0een on tosomethin"

    $eriousl4 thou"h< 4ou do want to make sure that the face is clamped into place aswell as possi0le.

    e%t< 4ou7re "oin" to cut the top skin. This consists of a 6-3>*; % 6+-3>*; sheetof >/; hard0oard that7s had 6* de"ree 0e#els cut alon" the short G6-3>*;H a%is. ?oahead and cut that out and then whip out 4our hand4 an"le "au"e

    ow 4ou need to set up 4our ta0le saw to cut the 0e#els on the top >/; skin.

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    $et 4our fence width for 6+-3>*; like so=

    To make sure 4ou7re settin" the distance correctl4< make sure the hi"hest point ofthe 0lade is e#en with the top surface of the material 4ou7re cuttin". Measure from thefence to that point. This will ensure that 4ou7re not accidentall4 cuttin" the sheet short.

    2hen 4ou7re done< the sheet should fit like this=

    $et the top sheet to the side as we need to make and install the ed"e reinforcementstrin"ers.

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    Psin" scrap strin"er material< I want 4ou to cut len"ths of it at 6* de"rees< ustlike 4ou did for the top skin. Take the minimum amount off them to "et the full 0e#el.These are "oin" to 0e cut down in len"th and inserted 0etween each of the ri0s that makeup the monitor deck.

    Cut these as accuratel4 as 4ou can. The47re "oin" to 0e "lued into place and thefit must 0e snu"< 0ut not so ti"ht that it distorts the framework. ?ra0 a pair of lon"clamps and start "luin"E

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    $et the monitor deck aside and let it dr4. 8ou don7t want to 0e firin" /"a 0radsinto it until the "lue has had time to 0e of some use.

    )fter lettin" it dr4< draw li"ht pencil lines alon" the cross-hatch pattern made 04the framin". 8ou7ll use these to know where to fire the pins after the sheet has 0een

    applied to the framework.

    )ppl4 "lue to all the areas that support the top and nail it down=

    e%t 4ou7ll need to cut two 3-3>*; wide 04 6-3>*; lon" sheets of >/; hard0oard

    for the sides=

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    ?lue and nail the sides down ust as 4ou did the top skin.

    8ou can take the top ed"e of the side skin off with some +1 "rit sandpaper andfollow it up with 661 to smooth it out. $et the monitor deck aside for now. 8ou7re donewith it until the final assem0l4 steps.

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    Chapter Fourteen - Building the (indscreen

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    !or this assem0l4< 4ou7re "oin" to need the followin" materials=

    Vt4 &escription

    (art K6* 2indscreen !ace !rame

    6 2indscreen !ace !rame einforcement Block Gspec. detailed 0elowH

    6 $ide !rame einforcement Block Gspec. detailed 0elowH (art K61> 2indscreen $ide !rame< eft

    (art K61> 2indscreen $ide !rame< i"ht

    (art K66 2indscreen Top !rame

    (art K6 2indscreen ower !rame

    6 (art K5 Instrument (anel $upport )rch

    (art K6+ or K6 Instrument (anel

    The first thin" 4ou need to do for this is to "et all the reAuired an"le cuts made onthe #arious parts. 2e7re "oin" to start with the 63.5 de"ree cuts alon" the 0ase of thewindscreen side frames. This will "i#e us the left ' ri"ht sides that are listed in the parts

    list a0o#e.

    $et 4our ta0le saw up for a 63.5 de"ree cut. $ince 4our parts ma4 #ar4 a 0it frommine< measure alon" the lon" ed"e of the windscreen side frame to "et the fi"ure to set4our ta0le saw fence. Mine happened to come out at 9 9>36;< which is within the errortolerance for the part. To ensure that 4ou7re cuttin" them properl4< cut the ri"ht side likethis=

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    Then cut the left side like this=

    This should lea#e 4ou with the parts lookin" like this when stacked=

    In order to make the two windscreen face frame reinforcement 0locks< 4ou7ll needto rip down some U; pine to .5 and cut a 63.5 de"ree 0e#el in it as shown on the ne%tpa"e. These parts are ->*; lon".

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    e%t< 4ou7ll need to rip down a +; len"th of 6%* so 4ou end up with two ; % ->6; 0locks< +; lon". Be#el cut them at 9.5 de"rees as shown 0elow=

    These two 0locks are the side frame reinforcement 0locks as listed at the0e"innin" of the chapter.

    The ne%t part cuts 4ou need to make are simple 4ou7ll need to rip down someU; (ine into U; strips. 8ou need two ; len"ths and two *->6; len"ths. These areused as the attachment points for screwin" the face frame to the side and top windscreenframes.

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    U; % U; (ine reinforcement strips

    This last step in pre-cuttin" parts is the most :trick4; for those that ha#e ne#erdone it 0efore< so please pa4 careful attention.

    !irst< set 4our saw for a 63.5 de"ree 0e#el cut and then set the 0lade hei"ht to ;=

    The ruler in the picture isn7t e%act I had to use a ma"net to hold it in place whileI took the photo< 0ut trust me< the 0lade hei"ht is set to ;.

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    The "ad"et shown 0elow is called a :Tenon Fi"; and is desi"ned to do ust thekind of thin" 4ou7ll 0e doin" in a second. If 4ou don7t ha#e a tenon i"< the4 are #er4eas4 to make and a Auick search on the net will show 4ou plans for a num0er of them. If4ou7d like to 0u4 one instead of 0uild one 4ourself< ockler Ghttp=>>www.rockler.comH

    has a #er4 nice hea#4 dut4 tenon i" for a0out Q/1.

    I want 4ou to adust the fence Gor the stand alone tenon i" if 4ou ha#e one ofthoseH so that the 0lade is ust 0arel4 not in contact with the i" face.

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    http://www.rockler.com/http://www.rockler.com/
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    I do this 04 spinnin" the 0lade with m4 thum0 Gwear a "lo#eEH as I tap the i"closer. 2hen the 0lade ust starts to :tick; the i"< I tap it 0ack the other wa4 ust a tin40it so the 0lade no lon"er touches the i".

    Dere7s another photo that illustrates the point from a 0it of a different an"le=

    ow clamp the windscreen top frame G4es< I know it7s not reall4 a :frame;H intothe tenon i". Make sure that the 0ottom ed"e of the frame is in contact with the ta0lesaw surface=

    ow start up the saw and carefullysend the part throu"h. 2hen 4ou "et to theother side of the 0lade< stop. &on7t draw the part 0ack throu"h as 4ou mi"ht normall4.

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    Turn 4our ta0le saw off and slide the i" 0ack. Take the frame out of the i" andflip it around. The cut 4ou ust made should look like this the ima"e also shows theorientation of the cut when the frame is put 0ack into the i" for the second cut.

    The result of the first cut.

    ow run the i" throu"h the saw a"ain to make the second cut. ow that thosetwo cuts are made< there are two more needed to finish the part.

    ea#e 4our saw confi"ured as it was for the first two cuts< 0ut adust the 0ladehei"ht and fence depth so it looks like this=

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    8ou want the 0lade hei"ht set so that it ust takes off that little led"e of material.8ou do OT want to cut an4 deeper or 4ou7ll screw up the part fitE 2hen 0oth sides arecut< 4ou7ll ha#e somethin" that looks like the ima"e shown 0elow.

    ow we start puttin" this whole thin" to"ether. !irst off< let7s assem0le the twohal#es of the windscreen face frame=

    8ou 0utt the two frame hal#es to"ether as shown a0o#e and then install a *; % ;wide piece of strin"er scrap with /"a 0rads. Make sure 4ou appl4 "lue to 0oth the 0uttoint of the face frames as well as to the *; reinforcement strip. (lease make sure that the0utt oint is as ti"ht as possi0le. This component dictates the final width of thewindscreen< so it@s "ot to 0e as close to perfect as 4ou can make it.

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    This is a 0it 0etter picture that illustrates how the face frames "o to"ether. &oOT mo#e these parts until the "lue is dr4E Pntil it7s attached to the rest of thewindscreen frame< this part is #er4 weak and must 0e handled with care. I recommendpinnin" it from the opposite side as well once the "lue dries. Pse U; 0rads to keep themfrom penetratin" too far and comin" out the other side of the frame.

    The first step in the windscreen assem0l4 is to draw a line >/; from the ed"earound the perimeter of the frame like so=

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    I know that the lines are hard to see< so if 4ou need to see them< 4ou can check outthe ima"e called :windscreen assem0l4 .pn"; on the C&.

    $tartin" at the 0ottom of the windscreen frame< make a pencil mark a -3>*; fromthe 0ase< then 5 more marks at 3; inter#als startin" at the mark 4ou ust made. Make sure

    4ou mark 0oth :arms; of the windscreen frame.

    e%t< make a mark ; in from where the horiNontal line intersects the #ertical line.Gsee pic a0o#eH. !rom that mark< make another 6-9>+; from the mark at ;. &o thesame thin" on the opposite side of the frame.

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    Psin" the ima"e a0o#e as a "uide< draw another line 3>/; in from the ed"e. Markalon" the line the same wa4 4ou did on the two :arms; of the windscreen frame. Makethe first at -3>*; and then 5 more at 3; inter#als.

    ow it7s time to start assem0lin" all these parts into somethin" reco"niNa0le as awindscreen

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    Take the ri"ht windscreen side frame and appl4 "lue all alon" the ed"e that matesto the windscreen face frame. Clamp it to"ether like so=

    8ou need to take special care to make sure that the 0ottom ed"es line up perfectl4.If the4 don7t 4ou7re "oin" to ha#e an ali"nment pro0lem later on. 8ou want to space theclamps in such a wa4 that 4ou7ll 0e a0le to reach some of the pencil marks with a drilland countersink=

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    ow place the windscreen face frame reinforcement 0lock into place and markwhere it intrudes into the space where the screw plate will occup4=

    Take one of the two ; lon" screw 0locks and appl4 "lue to the two adacentfaces that will fit into the corner of the windscreen side frame and the windscreen faceframe as shown=

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    Clamp it into place from at least two points to ensure that it7s held ti"htl4 into thecorner. ow 4ou want to start drillin" >+*; pilot holes for the K/ ->*; screws that4ou7ll use to screw the frames to"ether=

    emo#e the clamps as 4ou "o and when 4ou7re done< the ri"ht side should looklike this=

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    ow repeat this process for the left side. 2orkin" with the other side can 0e a 0ittrick4 4ou don7t want to put a lot of stress on the 0utt oint that holds the windscreenface frame to"ether. 2hat I did was to la4 the frame face down and work on it with theed"e of ta0le as 4ou can see 0elow=

    Dere7s another ima"e to help illustrate how it "oes=

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    2hen 4ou7re done assem0lin" the other side< 4ou should ha#e a framework thatlooks like this=

    ow 4ou need to install the windscreen top frame this is #er4 eas4 to do and:self-ali"ns; 0ecause of how it was cut. Fust la4 the windscreen frame face down andslide the part into place after appl4in" "lue to the contact ed"es=

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    Install the two *->6; screw 0locks as shown 0elow don7t for"et to appl4 "lue tothe two ed"es that meet the windscreen face frame and the windscreen top frame=

    ow drill and countersink at the marks 4ou put on the face frame=

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    e%t< pilot drill and countersink for four screws alon" the face ed"e of the topwindscreen frame=

    The centerline for the screws will 0e a0out >/; as measured from the outside faceof the windscreen face frame.

    ow it7s time to install the lower face frameE This one is #er4 eas4. Fust appl4 "lue tothe ed"es of the part< put in place and pin it into place usin" four 0rads on each side=

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    )t this point< the windscreen frame should look like this=

    ow 4ou want to draw a line alon" the 0ottom ed"e of the windscreen side frame/; from the 0ottom< like so=

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    The ne%t item up is installin" the ->*; windscreen face frame reinforcement0locks. Measure in ; from where the two perpendicular lines cross and make a mark.Make four more marks spaced ->6; apart as shown=

    )ppl4 "lue to the reinforcement 0lock and place it into position as shown 0elow=

    8ou need to drill 5 >+*; pilot holes< ; deep at the marks 4ou ust made on thewindscreen side frame. Tr4 to keep 4our drill 0it as perpendicular as possi0le with thean"le of the windscreen frame surface. Countersink and install 5 ; K/ screws aspictured on the ne%t pa"e.

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    The 0lock on the opposite side is installed the same wa4. GOf courseEH

    The ne%t step needs to 0e done carefull4. 8ou7re "oin" to install the two +%%->6; windscreen side frame reinforcement 0locks while the windscreen assem0l4 ismounted to the cockpit.

    !irst< measure 6->6; from the forward face of the aft cockpit arch and draw aline. &o this on 0oth cockpit rails. These are the ali"nment marks that 4ou7ll use toproperl4 position the windscreen assem0l4.

    Dere7s where it "ets a 0it dice4 e#en if 4ou7#e done e#er4thin" ri"ht< the cockpitsides ma4 0e sli"htl4 farther apart or sli"htl4 closer to"ether than the4 need to 0e. In m4case the cockpit sides were too far apart. I used a ratchetin" car"o strap to draw the sidesto"ether. 8ou7re "oin" for somewhere in the nei"h0orhood of 6*-3>*; from rail to rail asmeasured from the inside of the rails. I sa4 :somewhere; 0ecause the actual distance is"oin" to 0e dictated 04 how well 4ou 0uilt the windscreen.

    8ou want to position the windscreen so that the outside face of the windscreensides are flush with the insi(e surfaceof the cockpit skin. To do this< 4ou7re "oin" toneed to draw the sides to"ether< or sho#e Wem apart. If 4ou need to mo#e them apart< Isu""est "ettin" 4ourself a pipe clamp< re#erse it and use it to spread the sides apart. This

    is what I needed to do on the de#elopment protot4pe and it worked out #er4 well.

    If 4ou@re skinnin" with aluminum< the side faces of the windscreen should matchup perfectl4 with the skin that@s how it was desi"ned. =H

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    Dere7s what I needed to do for m4 cockpit. 2hen 4ou7re compressin" the sideslike this< make sure 4ou do it as close to the ri0 ust aft of where the windscreen ispositioned. 2hate#er 4ou do< do OT ratchet it down Auickl4E 8ou7re "oin" to 0reaksomethin" if 4ou7re not #er4 careful. Fust take it slow and listen carefull4 for crackin"sounds. I know that sounds ominous< 0ut I can7t stress enou"h how careful 4ou need to0e here. Once 4ou ha#e the sides compressed Gor e%pandedEH to where the outside surfaceof the windscreen face is flush with the inside surface of the cockpit skin< clamp thewindscreen into place usin" two clamps each on the windscreen face frame reinforcement0locks.

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    &o notrelease the car"o strap or e%pander clamp 4etE GIn fact< don7t e#en thinka0out it I7ll tell 4ou when it7s safe to remo#e it. !or now< pretend it doesn7t e%istH

    Make a mark 5>/; in from the front ed"e of the windscreen and then four more< ->6; apart as shown 0elow=

    ow 4ou need to drill two mountin" holes< one on each side of the windscreenframe. 8ou7re "oin" to need a lon" ; drill 0it to drill this hole=

    (ositionin" of the hole is prett4 :free-form;. 8ou want it alon" the centerline ofthe 0lock< and far enou"h out from the ed"e of the windscreen frame that 4ou can still tapa 0olt into the hole. Once 4ou ha#e the hole drilled< install a 6; ; he% head 0olt usin"washers on 0oth sides and a nut on the under side.

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    ow mo#e to the opposite side and drill ' install the other 0olt there.

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    &o NOTremo#e the clamps from either side 4et.

    ow 4ou need to appl4 "lue to the side frame reinforcement 0lock and place itinto position as shown 0elow=

    The 0lock is actuall4 installed upside down so that when it7s placed firml4 a"ainstthe inside surface of the windscreen frame< the 0ottom face of the 0lock will mate flusha"ainst the lower cockpit framin". &rill four >+*; pilot holes alon" the marks 4ou madea short while a"o and countersink them. Install four ; K/ screws. &o this for 0oth sides.

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    e%t< 4ou want to mark the 0locks ->6; from the end closest to the windscreenlower face frame and a"ain 6-3>*; from that mark. These are 4our center points for thene%t holes 4ou need to drill.

    Install two 6; ; he% head 0olts on each side. If 4ou had to compress or e%pandthe cockpit sides more than ; to make the windscreen assem0l4 line up< lea#ee#er4thin" as it is until the "lue dries on all the windscreen ' reinforcement 0locks.

    )fter e#er4thin" has had time to dr4< 4ou can 0e"in to remo#e 4our clamps. $tartwith the clamps on the inside of the windscreen and work 4our wa4 out to the clamp or

    strap that 4ou installed to ali"n the cockpit sides with the windscreen.

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    Con"ratulationsE 8ou7re now done with the initial windscreen constructionE

    ow it7s time to install the instrument panel support arches. In order to do that/; spacers out of scrap %>6; strin"er stock as well as two spacer 0locks of thesame len"th made of 6%*. )ll si% of these parts must0e the same siNeE In order to makethis eas4< set 4our saw up similar to mine 0elow=

    2hat I@#e done here is set up a 6%* as a stop-0lock that will allow me to cut *-3>/; lon" parts until I run out of thin"s to cut. Cut 4our four ->6; spacers this wa4 aswell as the 6%*. 2hen 4ou@re done< rip the *-3>/; 6%* in half. The 6%* spacers will 0eused to correctl4 set the distance of the instrument panel arch at the 0ase of the arch.

    This is where the 6%* spacers are placed.

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    (lace the instrument panel arch into place=

    The panel arch is a #er4 ti"ht fit. 8ou can tap it into place usin" a soft facedhammer< 0ut please 0e careful. It will fit. Fust ha#e patience.

    I@m "oin" to ra#e a0out a new tool I ust "ot m4 hands on it@s a pocket hole i"made 04 Xre" and it@s insanel4 useful. 8ou@re luck4 I didn@t "et m4 hands on this thin"when I first started this proect or 4ou@d 0e up to 4our neck in pocket holes 04 now. Idrilled out the four instrument panel arch spacers usin" this i". It turned out to 0e the

    easiest method of mountin" them without ha#in" to screw around with the pin nailer.

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    )s 4ou can see< the pocket holes are drilled in the top of the part. This allows 4outo screw it down and not interfere with the installation of the "lare shield.

    The picture 0elow shows the first two spacers installed as well as the :0e"inner;

    model of Xre" pocket i".

    The spacers are installed 0etween the middle 5 instrument panel mountin" holes.Their e%act position isn@t cast in stone. )s lon" as the4@re prett4 much centered 0etweenthe mountin" holes and flush with the top of the instrument panel mountin" arch< 4ou@ll

    0e fine.

    This is the i" that I used. Q99 for the kit< 0ut well worth it.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered **

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    2hen 4ou@#e "otten all four spacers installed< the4 should look somethin" likethis=

    &o *4'remo#e the lower spacer 0locks 4etE 8ou still need to secure the ends ofthe instrument panel arch.

    &raw a line alon" the side of the windscreen frame that is centered on the panelarch 4ou ust installed=

    &raw a mark ; from where the lines cross and then another 6; from that mark.

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    &rill ; deep pilot holes and countersink. Install 6 ; K/ flat head screws on toeach side. )fter 4ou@re done 4ou can remo#e the spacer 0locks.

    e-install the windscreen assem0l4 into the cockpit. It should 0e fairl4strai"htforward now that the mountin" holes are drilled.

    8ou need to temporaril4 install the instrument panel in order to complete the ne%tfew steps=

    The panel needs to 0e installed in order for 4ou to ensure that the instrument panelitself doesn@t rise a0o#e the panel arch. If it does< the "lare shield won@t fit properl4.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *+

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    The panel can 0e sanded down to fit. If the differences are "reat enou"h< run apencil alon" the top of the panel arch in order to draw a line on the 0ack of the panel.This will "i#e 4ou a cuttin">shapin" "uide to work from after 4ou@#e remo#ed the panel.

    )fter the panel is correctl4 shaped< 4ou need to see to the lower attachment pointsthat are located in the side ri0s. These holes are not present in the plan 0ecause there will0e enou"h #ariance in how 4ou 0uild 4our cockpit that would render the hole locationsincorrect.

    Check out how much space 4ou ha#e 0etween the panel face and the ri0 it willattach to=

    The "ap will 0e an4where from nothin" to a0out 3>/;. !ind a section of scrapmaterial that will 0e suita0le for a spacer. It needs to co#er 0oth of the holes that are inthe instrument panel at this location.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered *

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    2hen 4ou@#e "ot 4our spacer in place Gif 4ou need one I happen to need one formine< 0ut it@s not shown hereH clamp it down and drill an >+*; hole Gor a 0it 0i""erH toaccommodate a K1 0olt. 2hen 4ou@re done< 4ou can remo#e the instrument panel andset it aside. 8ou won@t 0e needin" it until it@s time for final assem0l4.

    The "lare shield is made from >/; hard0oard. It@s a sin"le part a0out 65 ; lon"and 5 3>/; wide. I sa4 :a0out; 0ecause construction differences 0etween what 4ou doand what I do can render that len"th fi"ure a close 0allpark num0er. I would su""est that4ou find a :fa0ric ruler; and measure the distance across the arc of the instrument panel

    mountin" arch in order to ensure 4ou "et the correct len"th.

    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered */

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    )fter 4ou@#e cut the "lare shield< test fit it to make sure it@s snu" at the ends anddoesn@t o#erhan" the instrument panel support=

    In order to attach the "lare shield to the support strin"ers< 4ou@re "oin" to need todraw a set of center lines on the instrument panel support that indicate the centerline ofthe strin"ers=

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    )fter markin" the centers< install the "lare shield so 4ou can mark it=

    8ou@ll want to clamp the ends so that it doesn@t shift while 4ou are drawin" thecenter lines and drillin" for the mountin" screws.

    &raw lines alon" the short a%is of the "lare shield and a center mark at the half-wa4 point G6.+/5;H=

    &rill and countersink the center marks for K/ screws.

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    Pse four U; K/ screws to attach the "lare shield to the windscreen.

    &o OT "lue down the "lare shieldE If 4ou do< 4ou won@t 0e a0le to reach thewindscreen attachment 0olts that are hidden 04 the "lareshieldE

    That concludes this chapterE 8ou@re done with the windscreen and it@s time to "oha#e a 0eer and tell lies to 4our friends a0out how man4 0ad "u4s 4ou killed toda4. =H

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    Copyright 2008 by Gene Buckle. All Rights Resered 56

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    Chapter Fifteen ) Building the Canop*

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    The canop4 side frames and top frame can 0e 0uilt two different wa4s. In theprotot4pe canop4< I ripped down 6; wide strips U; thick (ine and created the frames thewa4 4ou@d see it done for a ca0inet face. To make thin"s simpler< I decided to use asin"le-piece desi"n for the :production; #ersion.

    To create the side frames< 4ou@ll need to cut two 0lanks from U; pl4wood orM&!. The frame dimensions are 6+->6; 04 9-5>36;. The top frame 0lank is 6+->6; %*-6>36;. $et up 4our com0ination sAuare to a 6; depth and use it to draw a line 6;awa4 from the four ed"es of the 0lanks. Cut this out. This will "i#e 4ou a 6; widecanop4 frame. I don@t recommend less than -3>*; width on the framin". If it@s narrowerthan that< 4ou ma4 ha#e pro0lems drillin" the pocket holes that are used to fasten thesides and top to the canop4 end frames.

    In order to assem0le the canop4 frame< 4ou@ll need to first 0e#el the canop4 frameparts at a 63.5 de"ree an"le. The two side frames are cut at parallel an"les and the top

    frame is cut on opposite an"les.

    8ou need to set 4our saw up to cut off onl4 the an"led portion 4ou don@t want toreduce the siNe of the frame itself or it won@t "o to"ether correctl4. e#iew thewindscreen chapter for details on correctl4 cuttin" an"les off the end of parts.

    The an"les for the side frames are cut parallel to one another< like this :> >;.

    Before cuttin" the first an"le< 4ou should attach a flat 0oard to 4our fence toensure that when 4ou cut the second an"le< the material cannot slide under the fence andruin the cut. GThis will 0e shown on the ne%t pa"eH

    This is 4our first cut. )s 4ou can see< m4 frame has 0een pocketed to allow me toadd (le%i"las windows to it after it@s 0een finished.

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    8ou can see from this picture wh4 the additional material on the fence is reAuired.If it wasn@t there< the thin ed"e of the an"led cut would slide under the fence a0out >/;Gma4 #ar4 on 4our sawH and would ruin the opposite cut.

    The top frame is cut with its an"les facin" one another< like this :> Z;. 2hen cut*; thick material hereH and are U; % ;< 6+ ; lon"and ha#e a 63.5 de"ree cut alon" the width. These parts are shown 0elow=

    I recommend usin" (ine as it needs to take screws and M&! doesn@t perform wellwith screws enterin" in the :end "rain;.

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    In order to assem0le the canop4 frames< I stron"l4 su""est usin" a Xre" (ocketFi". The4@re onl4 Q61 and are a fantastic addition to 4our tool0o%.

    The pocket holes in the canop4 side frames are onl4 drilled alon" the top ed"e andalon" 0oth ends. The 0ottom ed"e must not 0e drilledE

    It@s o0#ious I@m no artist< 0ut 4ou need to make sure that 4ou drill the pocket holesas shown a0o#e.

    ,ach frame needs 5 pocket holes drilled. One at each end< ; in from the ed"e/; from each end G6 holesH and a 5that the 3 ; point.

    $ettin" up the Xre" i" for drillin" the holes is #er4 simple and can 0e seen on the

    ne%t pa"e.

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    Fust clamp the i" down and ha#e at. Because of the an"le cut< 4ou@re not "oin" touse ; screws as recommended 04 Xre". The4@re ust a tin4 0it too lon" GI found outthe hard wa4H and 4ou@ll need to use ; screws...

    2hen 4ou@re finished< the top of the frame should look like this=

    )s 4ou can see< the holes on m4 part are not e%actl4 e#en on the ends. This wasstrictl4 m4 fault and 4ours should 0e ; in from the ends. =H

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    e%t< 4ou need to drill fi#e more pocket holes alon" the ends of the canop4 sides=

    !rom each end< drill holes at 6 ;< * U; and a sin"le one at 9 ;. These are theattachment points for the canop4 arch frames.

    ow 4ou can 0e"in to assem0le the canop4 frame=

    The special clamps that Xre" sells reall4 makes this kind of assem0l4 easier.&on@t for"et to appl4 "lue alon" the top of the side frame 0efore 4ou clamp it up. Install5 ; pocket screws. Be careful to ensure that the an"le on the top frame is flush with theoutside surface of the canop4 side frame.

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    Take special care when puttin" the screws in if the frames are not clampedfirml4< the4 can slide around a 0it 0ecause the "lue acts like a lu0ricant.

    )ssem0le 0oth sides=

    Make sure 4ou wipe wa4 an4 e%cess "lue that has 0een sAueeNed from the seams.

    ow 4ou can start to install the canop4 end frames=

    These "o on #er4 easil4< ust make sure 4ou appl4 "lue to the ends of theframework 0efore 4ou attach the canop4 ends.

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    )t this point the canop4 should look like this=

    The ne%t step is to install the two 6+->6; (ine strin"ers. 8ou need to draw a 0aseline that is offset 5>/; from the 0ottom ed"e of the side frame=

    The line is a 0it difficult to see