Semuc Champey - "The Gem of Guatemala" (Lanquin)

7/31/2019 Semuc Champey - "The Gem of Guatemala" (Lanquin)

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reggie's backpacking chronicles

"The Gem of Guatemala" Semuc Champey

Situated deep in the jungles of Guatemala, Semuc Champey may not be on your initial travel itinerary but ask any backpacker their favorite place in

Guatemala and I can almost guarantee they will say SEMUC!

When catching a bus to Semuc Champey, there are a few things you should know. First, whatever duration your trip is claimed to be, double it. Second,

the road is extremely windy and if your tummy is prone to go funny, be sure to pack Dramamine. And finally, when asked to stay in Semuc Chempey itself

or the nearby village of Lanquin, I recommend Lanquin for one main reason, Zephyr Hostel.

Perched on a high hill and silhouetted against the flawless blue sky, the

thatched roof, tree house inspired lodge was a site for soar eyesand

bums...after the 8-hour journey from Antigua. Pre-booking a loft bed in one of

the large dormitories, we had to climb up two sets of wooden ladders to reach

our room - a small wooden platform complete with double mattress, thatched

A-frame walls and one hell of a view! Zephyr also offers a very liberating

shower experience. Veiled by a curtain on one side, but completely exposed to

the adjacent valley on the other, this open-air, hello world Im naked, set up is

unforgettable.

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Waking bright and early for what promised to be the crown jewel of our trip, myself and 20 other eager travelers filed into an awaiting truck bed. Packed in

like cattle, standing was our only option. Utilizing an overhead metal bar for support, our bodies helplessly bashed into one another for the painfully bumpy

45-minute drive into the National Park.

First stop, the Candle Caves. Included in the full-day tour, we presumed the cave adventure to be a paltry add on. Something to increase the overall tour

time and extract more money from tourists. Boy were we wrong! No helmets, wetsuits, or flashlightsjust bare skin, bare feet and candles! Or, in my

case, tennis shoes - more grip, better trip. So while other travelers slipped and slided toward the cave, Clay and I bounded over slick rocks and slimy

branches, affirmation of our shoe choice within the first 10-seconds.

Once everyone assembled around the cave mouth our guide reached for a colorful flower bud and broke it open. Running his thumb through the bright

orange innards, he smeared tribal paint on each of our faces. Claimed to ward off evil spirits in the cave, the paints real purpose was evident, humor!

Drawing a variety of different symbols on foreheads and cheeks it was all fun and games until I got, stached. A mustache? Seriously dude? Needless to

say, I provided comedy relief for everyone and became the butt of every dirty joke.

Other Zephyr amenities include a full-service restaurant serving

up loads of western favorites, daily happy hours and great music

that bumps from morning to night. The fun is inescapable but the

bill is not. Placed on a tab system from day 1 those overpriced

rounds of drinks and late night pizzas can add up to one hefty

bill. I recommend venturing into Lanquin for MUCH cheaper

easts and drinks.

A final Zephyr service includes tours to the famed Semuc

Champey. Sure, theyll run slightly higher then in Lanquin butthey offer the best tour around!

Content with his artwork our guide lit a handful of thick-wick candles and passed them round. Vamanos Amigos! Shuffling through a few feet of

water and loose screy, we moved deeper into the cave, our candles providing enough light to see our immediate surrounds, but hardly sufficient to see

beyond. Cautiously moving forward, the cool water soon began to rise and our guide instructed us to, swim.

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The hike was a heart pumping, 20-minute uphill slog but the reward was an unparalleled view below. Spreading out along the valley floor below, the layered

Around every corner lay a new challenge and a new discovery. Crawling through

narrow fissures, scaling waterfalls, swimming through jet black waters and my favorite

caving moment, an underwater swim through! The entry point was a small hole in the

limestone floor where the cave waters disappeared into a a submerged cave. Unable to

see our exit point, our guide offered simple instructions.

Ummm...how far are we

talking? 3 seconds or 30 seconds underwater? Trepidation was undeniable and I

approached the drop ready for anything. Splash...Plop... BREATHE. His explanation

was far trickier then the activity itself but just overcoming the fear of entry was a

success in itself.

Paddling with one hand while the other tried desperately to

keep the candle lit, we waded through the creepy waters.

Much chillier then anticipated our plummeting body

temperatures rejoiced at the site of a ladder out. Climbing

up the slick ladder one by one, we next squeezed through

a small fissure and into a huge cavern. As the amount of

people grew, so did the light. A curtain of dark slowly

revealing what lied behind it - impressive stalactites and

stalagmites decorating every surface.

"When you splash on other

side, you stay under water. You must swim to find air."

Ready for more adventure, our guide steered us to

the Cahaban riverbank. A tall, wooden platform

rising high above a series of large river boulders

greeted us along with a 50-foot rope swing! The

guide explained how, easy, the swing was but not

even the most adventurous of our group was

convinced. Jump time was crucial. Wait too long

on the swing and a hefty 15-meter fall loomed.

Jump to soon and well, lets just say rocks arent

your friend.

A few swings, a few flops, and a couple close calls

later, we left the river and began our ascent to El

Mirador (The Lookout).

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masterpiece of limestone was jaw dropping! Connected by rushing waterfalls and filled in with crystalline pools, the afternoon sun sparkled the water to life,

casting magical hues of emerald and sapphire for our viewing delight.

From this insanely beautiful vantage point, we enjoyed our jamon

y queso sammies - satisfying our appetite for sustenance but

increasing our appetite for adventure. Practically racing down the

steep embankment, the thick forest opened onto a large flat

limestone surface where the raging river disappearing

underneath. It is this river that created Semuc Champey

(translated in Mayan to mean, where water disappears). When

water levels rise, the river flows overtop, replenishing the pools,

but as water levels drop the river is forced under. Rushing over

boulders and powering through the narrow cavern, the tumultuous

waters disappear into the dark cave, not to emerge until 350

meters later. Thank goodness water levels were low.

Carefully maneuvering over the slippery limestone, we learned the best way to travel

between pools was swim. Wading from one side to the next, the end of every pool

brought the beginning of another. Some chose to cannonball or dive into the next

swimming holes while others chose the natural waterfall slides. Fun at first, the

bumpy rocks, loose screy and random foliage growing over the waterfalls did

nothing for a womans backsideor her bikini bottoms. OUCH!

Along with slides and jumps, a handful of pools contained hidden caverns and swim

throughs. Discovering them, however, required a bit of courage. Holding my breath

and wishing for the best, I swam under the limestone ledge. Not even a few

seconds later I surfaced in a small, hidden cave. Treading water literally 2-feet

away from the swimmers on the outside, they had no clue I was so close (yet so

far). Swimming out of the cave was more frightening then entering. Trusting that if I

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A natural marvel with mystical persona,

Semuc Champey is truly the gem of Guatemala! Buen

Viaje!!

Semuc Champey YouTube Special

swam towards the light for 3 seconds, I would surface outside. Well, one way to find

out. SWIM FOR THE LIGHT!

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