Seamless technology reduces 40% production ... - Textile Today

K n i t t i n g To d a y

FT Research Team

Seamless technology reduces 40% production time of Fakhruddin Textiles Mills Ltd.

Bangladeshi knitting industry is currently going through major technology shift from low value-added shirt and sweaters to high value-added seamless activewear. The Seamless technology is an innovative concept in producing clothing almost free of seams. The technology introduced almost 30 years ago in Europe. However, Bangladesh experienced the seamless technology in 2015 via Fakhruddin Textiles Mills Ltd. (FTML) a sister concern of Urmi Group who brings the technology to Bangladesh.

In 2015, the company started a pilot project with fi ve Santoni machines and now 40 modern seamless machines are in production. Seamless garmenting

is highly technical and innovative job, it needs technically sound and creative design and development team. When the company was planning to adopt the technology, the machine manufacturers

thought that Bangladesh might not be ready to adopt it. However, the futuristic company showed confi dence to step into the new era.

Leading sports and fashion brands across the world know all too well that the demand for seamless activewear is rising rapidly.

Sports brands like Adidas, Puma, Nike, Reebok, and Decathlon are some big players, also other fashion brands are leaning towards it.

“Initially the response from the buyers were poor, customers couldn’t get confi dence that such high-tech production can be done in Bagladesh, but over the past three years we demonstrated our ability,” Faiaz Rahman, Director of Urmi Group said to Textile Today FT Research Team.

In the beginning, the company developed designs for multiple customers and closed their fi rst order from NEXT. PUMA boosted up the company with plenty of orders and they became the main buyer. Other brands like Celio, M&S and Target are also showing great interest. Currently, it is producing seamless t-shirts, underwear and sports bra. With current capacity and order, they are producing 50,000 pieces of garments every month.

Figure 2: Santoni seamless machines at FTML.

Fakhruddin Textiles Mills Ltd. brings seamless technology in Bangladesh for the fi rst time. The State-of-the-art technology will help Bangladesh to cater different market segments in active wear.

Figure 1: high value-added seamless activewear in FTML.

99Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 09

Although the technology eliminates the fabrication process and reduces production time to almost 40%, but the machines are very expensive. The two major tasks of this process are product design and machine operation. Also, machine operation and maintenance is very complex. The company assigned two foreign specialists to look after the issue.

“We are working with Santoni to train our people, we sent four of our people abroad for training. Now Santoni technical team and foreign experts are providing training to our local designers and machine operator/technicians,” said Faiaz Rahman. He also expressed, “Generally one operator should operate fi ve machines but our people still did not reach that level of technical expertise and now one operator is handling only two machines which should be improved.”

As it is a new technology for Bangladesh, technical know-how is a big challenge for the entrepreneurs. The technology adaptation and the learning curve is a lengthy process.

“Raw materials and yarn selection requires more technical expertise. In dyeing and fi nishing stage, even a little deviation could aff ect the

shape and measurement of the product. Currently, our product rejection rate is high but we are moving in the right direction to bring that within a competitive range,” Faiaz Rahman added.

Today’s consumer wants something beyond requirement-based garments and they prefer activewear with variation in design and characteristics. Seamless apparel is

beautiful and off ers comfort and support that is superior to cut and sew garments. There is an enormous possibility and scope for Bangladesh to adopt the seamless technology to penetrate the activewear market with value-added product. Setting up this industry will help Bangladesh to move up in the new value chain.

Figure 3: Faiaz Rahman, Director, Urmi Group

K n i t t i n g To d a y R e t a i l e r s To d a y

House # 06 (2nd Fl.), Road # 08, Sector # 09, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, BangladeshTel: +88-02-8991254, Fax: 8991397Cell: +88 01713 273158, +88 01714 176474E-mail: [email protected]@catkin.com.bd, www.catkin.com.bd

ORIZIO s.r.l. Via Galvani24-25064 Gussago (Brescia) - ItalyTel. +39 030 3733137, +39 030 3732241- Fax +39 030 3733171E-mail: [email protected] – [email protected] – [email protected] www.orizio.com

Exclusive Agent:

JH-V

HIGH SPEED SINGLE KNIT MACHINE DESIGNED FOR HIGH VOLUME PRODUCTION OF PLAIN JERSEY AND JERSEY WITH LYCRA

Massive production & top qualityThe knitting head is incorporated onto Orizio’s new standard frame fitted with an integrated “Oritec” control panel which visibly shows the following information:

Clearly readable icons

Diagnostic warning signals

Built-in preparation for incorporated yarn/fabric measuring program

Production data recorded & memorized for 30 days

Automatic shift change

‘Gina Tricot’ will increase imports from Bangladesh to 1 billion dollar Swedish fashion company Gina Tricot launches its sourcing offi ce in Bangladesh and it has declared to increase its imports from Bangladesh to one billion dollars by 2019.

Desk Report

One of the biggest Swedish fashion company Gina Tricot has launched their sourcing offi ce in Dhaka on 6 September at Banani in the capital. The Swedish company has more than 2000 employees worldwide.

“Bangladeshi manufacturers should go diversify products and also need more sustainable product for sustainable business,” said Charlotta Schlyter, Swedish Ambassador to Bangladesh, at the launching ceremony.

“Our aim is to increase and develop business. We will increase imports from Bangladesh to one billion dollars by 2019,” said Magnus Månsson, CEO, Gina Tricot.

“Last ten years we have been

Figure: Swedish ambassador, brands representative, factories owners were present at the launching ceremony.

staying in Bangladesh market. More than nine factories are working with us who make all kinds of women items for us,” said, Ahasan Mahmood, Country Manager, Gina Tricot.

We are so proud of our new offi ce and we hope this will create a positive impact on both our factories and for our business, added Ahasan Mahmood.

100 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 09

House # 06 (2nd Fl.), Road # 08, Sector # 09, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, BangladeshTel: +88-02-8991254, Fax: 8991397Cell: +88 01713 273158, +88 01714 176474E-mail: [email protected]@catkin.com.bd, www.catkin.com.bd

ORIZIO s.r.l. Via Galvani24-25064 Gussago (Brescia) - ItalyTel. +39 030 3733137, +39 030 3732241- Fax +39 030 3733171E-mail: [email protected] – [email protected] – [email protected] www.orizio.com

Exclusive Agent:

JH-V

HIGH SPEED SINGLE KNIT MACHINE DESIGNED FOR HIGH VOLUME PRODUCTION OF PLAIN JERSEY AND JERSEY WITH LYCRA

Massive production & top qualityThe knitting head is incorporated onto Orizio’s new standard frame fitted with an integrated “Oritec” control panel which visibly shows the following information:

Clearly readable icons

Diagnostic warning signals

Built-in preparation for incorporated yarn/fabric measuring program

Production data recorded & memorized for 30 days

Automatic shift change


Sinha Knitting is moving towards automation

Sinha Knitting Limited, a sister concern of Opex and Sinha Group, has taken a challenging decision of adopting automation. The company is going to install 54 new state-of-the-art machineries that will allow producing 30 tons of fi ner quality fabric per day.

The knitting division is going for a major technology transformation very soon to cater to the growing demand of the textile industry. As its machinery were installed back in 90’s and updated time to time, but still a large portion of the machines remain semi-automated.

FT Research Team

“We are reinvesting on this plant to be fully automated. We have already started working with suppliers and technical supporters,” emphasized Md. Shah Alam Dalim, Director of Knitting & Dyeing, said Textile Today.

Opex and Sinha Group started its journey in 1996 at Kanchpur, Dhaka. Opex and Sinha Textile

For several reasons, including productivity increase and fast fashion trends, automation is becoming a crying need in the garments manufacturing process. Following this latest trends, Sinha Knitting Ltd is adopting automation in their production process.

group is the country’s largest integrated company. They have spinning, weaving, knitting, yarn

dyeing, fabric dyeing, washing, and sewing line. Being a fully compliant factory they accomplished the majority of the parameters set by the Accord and Alliance.

Shah Alam Dalim, who has 25 years combined experience in the textile industry, said, “Sinha

Knitting Limited started its journey as the subsidiary of the group. The project is very much quality concern and at present, the knitting capacity is 12 tons per day.”

Currently, the dyeing unit capacity is 14 tons

Figure 2: Sinha Knitting Ltd going for signifi cant automation within next few months.

Figure 1: Opex and Sinha using state-of-the-art machinery for fabric dyeing.

Figure 3: Md. Shah Alam Dalim, Director of Knitting & Dyeing.

and they are using Fong’s high temperature and high-pressure fabric dyeing machine. Additional four machines are going to be added in dyeing and fi nishing section that will increase the dyeing and fi nishing capacity to 20 tons per day.

“For knitting garments production, now they have 24 lines, in November of this year, it will be 32 lines and

within one year, total lines will be 60,” he added.

Levis and Levis Hybrid is their main buyer, in addition, they are also manufacturing garments for VF Asia, Crocodile, Tola Vintage and Norwest. The environment is always a big concern for Sinha Knitting, it has central biological ETP.

In Sinha Knitting Ltd, workers enjoy obligatory 5% compensation increment as per company rule and service benefi t after their retirement.


Sweater exports continue to rise Sweater, a sub-sector of the apparel sector, has seen a sharp growth in the last fi scal year, thanks to prolonged winter in the western world. According to latest data of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), in the fi scal year 2017-18, Bangladesh earned $3.67 billion, which is 9.32% higher compared to the $3.36 billion it earned in FY16-17.

Sweater has contributed 11.98% to overall readymade garment exports of $30.62 billion. In the Fiscal Year 2017-18, Bangladesh’s export earnings from the apparel sector have seen an 8.76%

growth to 30.61 billion. While, the country’s total, exports earnings rose to $36.66 billion in the same period.

Bangladesh, the second largest exporter of clothing products, has a huge opportunity in increasing exports of sweater products, as it is upgrading technology.

While the global demand is increasing due to expanded winter in the Western world. On top of that, Bangladesh off ers quality products at an aff ordable price. These have pushed the export earnings from the sector up.

Technological upgradation helps to grow

“In the recent years, Bangladeshi

Staff Correspondent

sweater manufacturers made a huge investment to upgrade machinery to move for automation. As a result, Bangladesh’s sweater production capacity, as well as workers’ productivity, have increased,” Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Vice President Mohammed Nasir said the Textile Today.

On top of that, the winter season in the western countries has expanded due to global climate change. It has increased demands of winter clothing products. So, it brings blessing to Bangladeshi

sweater manufacturers, said Nasir.

Meanwhile, China’s business relocation and rise in wages have brought more work orders in Bangladesh.

“If you look into the recent export trend of clothing products of China, it is losing its market share in the global markets. Since the workers’ wages in China is increasing, manufacturers are shifting their businesses to include higher-end products, and buyers are searching for new sourcing destinations,” Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) President Abdus Salam Murshedy said Textile Today.

So, the business shifting from China has created an enormous

opportunity for Bangladesh that has quality products at a reasonable price, Salam said, also a Former President of BGMEA.

In reaping the benefi ts of China, AB Mirza Azizul Islam, a trade analyst and economist, asked the manufacturers to move for diversifi cation of products and making new investment on product development.

He also urged the government to take measures in exploring new markets. On the other hand, manufacturers have to identify the new products, which are being left by the Chinese manufacturers.

Barriers to grow

Despite having a sound growth, there is more room to grow. However, there are also challenges, which is hindering the prospects of the emerging sub-sector.

Exports earnings from sweater even could be more, if there are no barriers such as port congestion, delayed delivery and transportation hindrance,” Target Group Managing Director, Azharul Islam said the Textile Today.

Talking to the sector people opined that as a sub-sector of RMG, sweater industry can contribute over $8 billion to meet Bangladesh’s export target of $50 billion by 2021, said Islam.

He urged Bangladesh government to increase port capacity to reduce lead-time.

“Bangladesh has good quality product at a reasonable price. But there is a shortage of raw materials to produce high-end goods, technical expertise,” said Md Moshiul Azam Shajal, Managing Director of Posmi Sweaters.

To remove these barriers, we need a stable and long-term policy to ensure the business-friendly atmosphere in the country, he added.

Sweater exports earnings in $ billion

2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 2017-18

2.93 2.823.18 3.36

3.67

Figure 1: Sweater exports earnings in $ billion for FY 2017-18. Source: EPB



‘Automation is the crying need for apparel industry…’

Bangladesh RMG industry, the second largest ready-made garment exporter in the world, has scrambled many challenges and still it is overcoming many hard situations. Now the industry is moving forward with the latest technology. Many apparel millers are using the latest technology for better productivity to cope up with fast fashion trends. Machinery companies also continuously working on bringing new featured machinery. H N Ashiqur Rahman, General Manager, Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd, is one of the most well-known professionals, working as a technology provider for more than a decade in the apparel industry.

H N Ashiqur Rahman, General Manager, Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd.

Recently he shared his views on apparel trends, technology, and market in a recent conversation with Textile Today.

Textile Today: How do you see the

transformation of the Bangladesh

textile industry in terms of

Garments trends and technology?

H N Ashiqur Rahman: Thanks for your thoughtful question. You know the entire textile industry is mainly sewing based. Our factory owners give capital investment for ends product operation process which means sewing and fi nishing section. So, industry transformation depends on how sewing technology is shifting. I have been serving in

this industry for the last 15 years. Once upon a time, I saw sewing machine was operated by button, extra sewing thread was cut manually by helper and oil leaking from machines. At present, the technology is shifting rapidly. Now we are using computerized sewing machine, auto trimming system, direct drive technology, and digital fl exibility feeding system. The industrial sewing machine has changed the way of whole clothing industry operation. It has increased the speed of production, which is unmatched with the speed of hands. Because of the technological revolution, now we have bargaining capacity to achieve a higher price in case of

Customer choices are changing rapidly, they want value-added product and in this regard, automation can offer value addition in garment products.

A u t o m a t i o n

105Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 09

high-quality product.

Textile Today: China is the giant

player in the textile manufacturing

industry worldwide, though they

are closing their basic garments

manufacturing industries and

Bangladesh is trying to grab that

market. So, how do you see the

prospects of Bangladesh textile

and apparel market in future?

Ashiqur Rahman: Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is continuously growing and looking for new opportunities. In July-August 2018, our export growth increases more than 10%. In the last fi ve years our factories went through massive changes and now maximum factory introduces themselves as a compliant factory. Seven out of ten green factories of all over the world are in Bangladesh.

In 2017-18, export earnings from the RMG sector is USD 30.16 billion, posting a 9% growth in the last fi scal year. I hope after fi ve years; our industry growth will be double. Because last few years buyers were slow to place an order due to ongoing safety inspections in the apparel sector. But now they are changing their mindset as the safety inspection has almost come to an end showing signifi cant progress and that restored buyer’s confi dence to place more orders here. In addition, Bangladesh will be the next popular hotspot of apparel sourcing after China.

Textile Today: What is the recent

innovation of industrial sewing

machine and how does it helps the

industry to increase quality and

productivity?

H N Ashiqur Rahman: Industrial sewing machines are updating day by day. Many companies are adding new features to increase productivity. For example, they are using direct drive technology, it reduces the two-thirds portion of total energy while the needle is running. In past, there was no such energy effi cient technology. Another addition is auto-trimming technology, using this technology

we can cut up to 3mm or less as per as buyer requirements. It is a new innovation for the industrial sewing machine. I can also add, in the past, the rate of needle breakage was higher but the new innovation of technology reduces needle breakage percentage and also increases the rate of production.

Textile Today: Day by day, the

whole supply chain is getting

compact and technology

replacing the workforce. Do you

think automation is a threat for

garments workers?

H N Ashiqur Rahman: I think automation creates an opportunity to expand our garments industry in terms of productivity and value-addition. It’s true that, naturally human involvement will decrease in cases of automation but our worker’s effi ciency will grow. Workers salary also will be increased. Customer choice is changing rapidly, they want the value-added product. Automation can off er value-addition in garments product for the international market. Brothers understand this trend and we have already started to supply IMB automation for the industry. In this situation, automation is the crying need for the industry to sustain the business.

Textile Today: What is the latest

A u t o m a t i o n

addition ‘Brother’ offering to the

apparel industry?

H N Ashiqur Rahman: Brother is a 110 years old world-renowned sewing machine manufacturing company having worldwide operation origin from Japan. It is continuously doing R&D to introduce new solutions for the textile and apparel industry. In the apparel industry, what ‘Brother’ do is always an example for others. Recently Brother introduces a new single needle machine called S-7250A with new technology DFF (FigiFlex Feed). This DFF system is the latest solution for our apparel industry. This technology off ers 3mm remaining thread after sewing. Needle breakage is an acute problem for the sewing machine, it hampers productivity hugely. But DFF technology reduces the possibility of needle breakage nearly 50% compared to previous technology. This machine is integrated with complete sealed aluminum oil tank, which will reduce oil stain problem and unnecessary expenses of the factory.

The most benefi cial feature ‘puckering free sewing quality’ is possible with this machine because of the adaptation of DFF technology as this machine can change the feed motion depending on sewing material and process.

Figure 2: A Brother sewing machine in operation.

K n i t w e a r To d a y


Seamless technology reduces 40% production ... - Textile Today

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