Sarawak and Sabah, Borneo - Birdtour Asia Reports/Birdtour Asia Borneo...Having finished the Sarawak leg of our journey we began our tour through Sabah with an early start to the Rafflesia
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Sarawak and Sabah, Borneo 16th August – 5th September 2015
Leader: Mike Nelson
Participants: Mel and Heather Billington, Francis and Gavin Peplow, Ulrich Weber and Daragh Croxon
Borneo remains one of Asia’s most desired birding destinations with a scintillating list of over fifty endemics and a host of habitats from lowland peat swamp and dipterocarp forest to moss draped highlands. We managed 50 endemics, three heard only, from stunning Bristlehead, Crimson-headed Partridge and Bornean Ground Cuckoo to the less known but equally desired Black Oriole and Dulit Frogmouth. We also picked up all nine of the barbets, all eight hornbills, all six trogons, all the endemic pittas (+Giant!), plus an outstanding array of night birds including seven owl species. The birds were not the only attractions with several star mammals like Bornean Orang-utan, Smooth Otter, Malay Badger, Slow Loris and Flat-headed Cat and a plethora of colourful squirrels and some striking reptiles. Our tour began with a predawn arrival in an area of peat swamp, one of Borneo’s most threatened habitats, to find Red-crowned Barbet, Hook-billed Bulbul and Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker. We managed all three with the bulbul
at eye level giving us great looks at its famous bill, a brilliant Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker perched just above us and the huge bill of the Red-crowned Barbet was seen on a nice male. A supporting cast of Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfisher and Red-billed Malkoha was an added bonus as well as several Large-tailed Nightjars sat in the road as we arrived. From here we spent the remainder of the day traveling into Sarawak and to the local village where we would spend the night. The next morning we began our hike up into the Crocker Range picking up several nice species like Red-billed, Raffles’s and Black-bellied Malkoha, Scarlet-rumped Trogon, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Red-bearded Bee-eater, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Gold-whiskered Barbet before arriving in time for lunch at the camp. While we were resting one of our main targets in the form of a singing Black Oriole showed up at camp. We all managed some nice views of it before heading up along the trail for the afternoon but rain drove us back to camp and the drizzle continued into the evening. The next morning we tried early for Bornean Frogmouth but though they responded they remained high up and out of view before the dawn light sent them into hiding for the day. Undaunted we spent the rest of the day up and down the trail finding Mountain Barbet, Maroon Woodpecker, Orange-breasted Barbet, Sunda Cuckooshrike, Bornean Bulbul and Treepie, Temminck’s Sunbird and Erpornis. One foray off the trail following an even pitched whistle eventually yielded a stunning Blue-banded Pitta. Francis keenly spotted the bird up the ridge while we’d been searching to the right for another bird singing there.
Black Oriole and Hook-billed Bulbul
Our last morning began early in the dark looking for Bornean Frogmouth but sadly they were responsive but perched up out of sight. Once it was light we headed back to camp for breakfast and began the slow hike back to our vehicles. We enjoyed lunch in the village then bade our guest farewell and drove to our next destination on the Indonesian border. We arrived in the afternoon and settled into our after which we headed up into the hills. Once in a suitable spot we began to try for one of Borneo’s most desired and rarely seen targets the Dulit Frogmouth. We heard one calling up the slope from us and waited for it to get closer. As we all stood there one flew across the road just above us and perched on a snag where we all got some nice views of it before it disappeared into the night. The next day was spent up in the hills above the village high up in the cooler air where things started a bit slow but picked up well with Bock’s Hawk-Cuckoo seen well then Sunda Cuckoo flying around us. The kazoo sound of Whitehead’s Spiderhunter let us know one was nearby. As we waited to find them others chimed in and eventually we had four all perched above us for some great looks. Next we heard the long scream of Mountain Serpent Eagle and managed to find one circling through the canopy in front of us. Not the most satisfying views but this was interrupted by the long drawn out song of Helmeted Hornbill somewhere in the forest below us. Having had little success in the past with luring one Mike wasn’t too hopeful but within minutes we could see the huge form of one heading right for us. Incredibly it perched up right in front of us for some amazing views. As soon as it spotted us though it was off. It continued to call from the forest above us and at one point was seen in flight again. Then again we heard the Mountain Serpent Eagles and found a pair circling in a more open area joined by Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle. While taking them in a much closer call sounded from the ridge behind us and we could see another
Serpent-Eagle through the trees which cleared them and circled over us for some fantastically close looks. We also picked up the more yellow sarawakensis subspecies of Mountain Leaf Warbler. The afternoon was spent farther afield and though our main target eluded us we did pick up a noisy pair of Rufous Woodpecker and a Scaly-breasted Bulbul. Night birding was good with Reddish Scops Owl, Brown Boobook, Malaysian Eared Nightjar all seen before we headed back to our lodge for the night.
Dulit Frogmouth Whitehead’s Spiderhunter
Black-and-Crimson Oriole and White-fronted Falconet
Having finished the Sarawak leg of our journey we began our tour through Sabah with an early start to the Rafflesia Centre. Our drive was interrupted by a Barred Eagle-Owl that flew right in front of our van. Thankfully it remained perched as we backed up and got a torch on it. It’s huge “eyebrows” were clear for all to see before it dropped down and into the darkness. Not a bad start. We arrived at dawn where we spent the morning birding. Temminck’s Sunbird and Babbler were seen well plus Black-and-Crimson Oriole, Bornean Whistler, Ochraceous and Cinereous Bulbul, Yellow-bellied Warbler and Mountain Tailorbird all showed well. From here we continued up to the base of Mount Kinabalu with a brief stop for a particularly obliging White-fronted Falconet perched next to the road. Again the van backing up didn’t disturb the bird and at one point it launched from its perch to catch an insect and landed very close to us for some great views.
In the afternoon we made our first forays around Mount Kinabalu tracking down Bornean Forktail, White-browed Shortwing, Mountain Leaf and Yellow-breasted Warbler, a noisy flock of Rufous-hooded Laughingthrush with a few Sunda Laughingthrush in tow helped to get things started. We spent another two full days on the mountain exploring the many trails and viewpoints in search of the many endemics up here. We managed particularly good views of Crimson-headed Partridge and watched one morning as a pair of Red-breasted Partridge fed with two chicks below us. Noisy Bornean Green Magpie were seen regularly, joined by Bornean Treepie. Since the Summit Trail was off limits after the huge earthquake we spent a bit of time in the higher reaches of the main part of the park where we got nice views of Mountain Blackeye, Bornean Whistling Thrush and Chestnut-crested Yuhina. A small fruiting tree gave us several Golden-naped Barbet mixed with Pale-faced Bulbul and Black-capped White-eye. Along the forest trails we picked up the diminutive Bornean Stubtail with its almost ultrasonic song which I’m sure dogs can hear clearly but several of us had a hard time picking up. After glimpsing Whitehead’s Broadbill on several occasions we stumbled into a large moving flock of laughingthrushes that contained several broadbills with one perching up for twenty minutes giving us all the opportunity for some great shots. Also picking through the flocks of laughingthrushes eventually gave us some nice looks at the head bobbing Bare-headed Laughingthrush. Scouring the back of the park also yielded Whitehead’s Trogon after some tense searching having heard but not seen them well the day before. More great looks at Mountain Serpent Eagle were had again with a nice pair circling closer and higher and eventually popping up over the road where we got some great views. The hooting call of ‘Sunda’ Collared Owlet led us to this small, diurnal owl peering down at us from high above. Other highland goodies included Bornean Whistler, White-throated Fantail, Grey-throated Babbler, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Indigo Flycatcher, Black-sided Flowerpecker and Pygmy White-eye.
Whitehead’s Broadbill and Mountain Serpent Eagle
After some early morning birding and a late breakfast, we descended from the mountain into the lowlands around Sepilok to check out the famous canopy walkway. The heat was noticeable right away but the birding made up for it. We enjoyed the cornucopia of colours in a pair of Black-and-Yellow Broadbills with their chicks at a tree hole where water had collected for them to bath. The riot of colours continued with Red-naped Trogon perched below us. The birding was suddenly tempered though by the massive form of a Red Giant Flying Squirrel gliding past the trees in front of us. A pair with their brood were cavorting in the tall trees jutting above the canopy and we watched as they would chase each other up a tall tree then out to the end and glide across to another and begin the process all over again. This continued up and down the walkway and we enjoyed them all afternoon till it got to dusk when we returned to the lodge. The next morning was spent along the trails behind the canopy tower where after some coaxing we had a Black-crowned Pitta fly up next to us on some looping vines for outstanding looks at the species, unobstructed and in good light. Other goodies along the trails were White-bellied Woodpecker, Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfisher, great looks at Diard’s Trogon, Rufous-winged Philentoma and Rufous Piculet.
After lunch we took an afternoon trip to Gomantong Caves where we had Black-nest and Mossy-nest Swiftlet though as the men were there harvesting we found no Edible-nest Swiftlets. A nice Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle landed at the entrance for all to see. A forest path nearby gave us great looks at Hooded Pitta and Horsfield’s Babbler. We finished off the day with a dusk spectacle of huge masses of swirling bats with several Peregrines in tow diving on them and picking off a few unlucky ones. Eventually the pointed wings of a Bat Hawk was seen to join the fray. Having enjoyed this spectacle, we headed to the Kinabatangan River for the night. After dinner we took a short night boat along the river where we found Buffy Fish Owl and on our return along the boardwalk to the lodge we found a Brown Wood Owl clutching a freshly caught Brown Spiny Rat. We spent the next two and a half days the Kinabatangan river with another suite of endemic birds and other specialties. Hornbills were plentiful with Wrinkled, Rhinoceros, Black, Oriental Pied, Bushy-crested and a nice family party of White-crowned Hornbills showing well at dusk. Storm’s Stork and Lesser Adjutant both showed well along the river. Jerdon’s Baza, Grey-headed and Lesser Fish Eagles, White-fronted Falconet, White-bellied Fish Eagle, daily Asian Bat Hawk at the nest, Crested Goshawk and Serpent Eagle and Oriental Honeybuzzard put in a good show for raptors. Blue-eared and Stork-billed Kingfishers added some colour and night birding gave us great looks at Large Frogmouth. Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo eventually showed really well as did Black-and-Red Broadbills. Mammals put on and extremely good show with 45 Bornean Pygmy Elephants, two family parties of Smooth Otters, Flat-headed Cat, Malay and Common Palm Civit, Malay Badger, Proboscis Monkey, Long-tailed and Pig-tailed Macaque, Bearded Pig and plenty of Estuarine Crocodile.
Wrinkled Hornbill and Large Frogmouth
Star of the show had to be a reluctant but eventually visible to all Bornean Ground Cuckoo that we managed to see on two mornings even though it did it’s level best to remain hidden just far back enough so that you could only see a tail bobbing or a head moving but with some skilful manoeuvring of the boats by our boatmen we all managed some very good views of this skulker. After our last bit of birding on the Kinabatangan we made our way to the famous Danum Valley. Three and a half days here gave us some fantastic Pittas with Black-crowned and Blue-headed showing particularly well, Bornean Banded giving jigsaw views and a female Giant hopping in front of us a real highlight. We also stocked up on plenty of Babblers with Ferruginous, Grey-headed, Black-capped, Short-tailed, Moustached, Rufous-crowned, Scaly-crowned, Chestnut-rumped, Striped Wren, Bornean Ground and Black-throated Wren helping us clean up the endemic babblers. Rufous-chested, Pale Blue, Large-billed Blue, Bornean Blue and Grey-chested Jungle Flycatchers gave us a nice suite of these birds. Though the pittas were the stars of the show we had a nice party of Bristlehead the first morning and a day later another family party showed even better. Both Moustached and Malaysian Hawk-Cuckoo showed particularly well. Chestnut-necklaced Partridge sauntered across the trail in front of us and an early morning Chestnut-naped Forktail on the road in front of us was a welcome addition. An afternoon on the canopy walkway gave us nice views of Spectacled and Long-billed Spiderhunter bathing in a water catchment in one of the huge dipterocarp trees, plus Yellow-crowned Barbet in close. Spectacled and Black-headed Bulbul, Blue-rumped Parrot, Red-throated Sunbird and Common Hill Myna were also noted. Along the rivers we picked up Straw-headed Bulbul and Great-billed Heron plus a pair of circling Rufous-bellied Eagles added to the list. A group of noisy Bornean Black Magpies had almost given us the slip when they circled around to the end of the bridge we were all standing at and showed really well before they crossed over in front of us showing even better up close. A lovely Rufous-collared Kingfisher, close Red-throated Barbet, blue morph Rufous-winged Philentoma, Dusky Broadbill and Puff-backed Bulbul were also seen well.
We took several night drives which allowed us a trove of mammals including Sambar and Lesser Mouse Deer plus Thomas’s and Black Flying Squirrel plus a fantastic Bornean. A very welcome and unexpected Oriental Bay Owl perched right next to the road was the standout of the night drives. Other surprizes included a pair of Crested Partridge crossing a gap next to the road and a Chestnut-capped Thrush and Olive-backed Woodpecker showing well off one of the trails. A vividly coloured, much-wanted Cinnamon-rumped Trogon our last morning was an added bonus. Sadly though our time in Borneo was coming to an end and we had to bid farewell to Danum and head back to Kota Kinabalu.
For information regarding our tours to Malaysia please click here. Alternatively please contact us via e-mail or phone +44 1332 516254 regarding organising a custom tour to Malaysia.
Bird-of-the-tour
1. Giant Pitta
2. Blue-headed Pitta
3. Black-crowned Pitta
4. Bornean Ground Cuckoo
5. Whitehead’s Broadbill
More tour photos below:
Top row: Bristlehead & Cinnamon-rumped Trogon
Middle row: Olive-backed Woodpecker, Oriental Bay Owl & Maroon Woodpecker
Bornean Black-banded Squirrel Callosciurus orestes e
Low's Squirrel Sundasciurus lowii
Jentink's Squirrel Sundasciurus jentinki e
Brooke's Squirrel Sundasciurus brookei
Plain Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus exilis e
Whitehead's Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus whiteheadi e
Black Flying Squirrel Aeromys tephromelas
Thomas's Flying Squirrel Aeromys thomasi e
Red Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista petaurista
Malay Badger Mydaus javanensis lucifer
Smooth Otter Lutrogale perspicillata
Malay Civet Viverra tangalunga
Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus
Flat-headed Cat Felis planiceps
Leopard Cat Felis bengalensis
Asian [Pygmy] Elephant Elephas maximus borneensis e
Bearded Pig Sus barbatus
Lesser Mouse-Deer Tragulus kanchil
Red Muntjac Muntiacus muntjak
Sambar Deer Cervus unicolor
Reptiles
Reticulated Python Python reticulatus
Black-headed Cat Snake Boiga nigriceps
Water Monitor Varanus salvator
Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus
Green Crested Lizard Agama cristatella For information regarding our tours to Malaysia please click here. Alternatively please contact us via e-mail or phone +44 1332 516254 regarding organising a custom tour to Malaysia.