RS Power Tubing Tong Manual

8/17/2019 RS Power Tubing Tong Manual

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Technical Manual for CAVINS/BJ Model RS Power Tubing Tong

1 | C A V I N S / B J ™ R S P o w e r T u b i n g T o n g

TECHNICAL MANUAL

CAVINS/BJ MODEL RS

POWER TUBING TONG (CE CERTIFIED)

OPERATING & MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONSWITH ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST


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Table of Contents

A. IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE ............................................................................................................................. 3

B. SPECIFICATIONS ................................................................................................................................................ 6

1. INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................................. 7

2. THE CAM AND ROLLER GRIPPING MECHANISM ............................................................................................... 8

3. TONG INSTALLATION ....................................................................................................................................... 10

4. TONG OPERATION ............................................................................................................................................ 12

5. TONG MAINTENANCE ...................................................................................................................................... 15

6. TROUBLE SHOOTING ........................................................................................................................................ 16

7. SHOP REPAIRS .................................................................................................................................................. 19

8. REPLACEMENT PARTS – FRAME ASSEMBLY WITH ROLL OVER HANGER ........................................................ 32

9. TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY ............................................................................................................................. 37

11. MOTOR, VALVE & PIPING GROUP WITH POSITIONER .................................................................................. 41

12. MOTOR, VALVE & PIPING GROUP WITHOUT POSITIONER ........................................................................... 42

13. REPLACEMENT PARTS – RIGID HANGER & SUSPENSION SPRING ASSEMBLY ............................................... 44

14. REPLACMENT PARTS – CONTROL VALVE ...................................................................................................... 45

15. REPLACEMENT PARTS – STANDARD HYDRAULIC MOTOR ASSEMBLY .......................................................... 46

16. REPLACEMENT PARTS – HIGH TORQUE HYDRAULIC MOTOR ASSEMBLY ..................................................... 48

17. ASSEMBLY DIMENSIONS – MODEL RS WITH POSITIONER & ROLL-OVER HANGER ...................................... 50

18. ASSEMBLY DIMENSIONS, MODEL RS WITHOUT POSITIONER & WITH RIGID HANGER ................................ 5119. SPARE PARTS FOR ONE YEAR OPERATION OF MODEL RS WITH POSITIONER .............................................. 52

20. OPERATING RATINGS .................................................................................................................................... 53


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A. IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE

Proper service and repair is important to the safe, reliable operation of all CAVINS equipment. Theservice procedures recommended by CAVINS and described in the technical manuals arerecommended methods of performing service operations. Some of these service operations require the

use of tools especially designed for the purpose. The special tools should be used when and asrecommended.

It is important to note that some warnings against the use of specific service methods that can damagethe equipment or render it unsafe are stated in the manual. It is also important to understand that thesewarnings are not exclusive. CAVINS could not possibly know, evaluate, and advise the service peopleof all conceivable ways in which service might be done or of the possible hazardous consequences ofeach way. Accordingly, anyone who uses service procedures or tools which are not recommended byCAVINS must first satisfy himself thoroughly that neither his safety nor his equipment’s safety will be

jeopardized by the method selected.

LIMITED PRODUCT W ARRANTY

WARRANTY: CAVINS warrants new devices of its manufacture or bearing its name-plate, when not

misused or neglected, to be free from defects in workmanship or material. CAVINS's obligation under

this warranty is limited to repairing or replacing, at its factory, any device or part thereof which shall,

within one year after delivery to the original purchaser, be returned to the factory, transportation

charges prepaid, and which on examination reveals to have been thus defective. No back charges for

labor, transportation, or other expense involved to either repair allegedly defective goods outside our

plant, or to repair damage occasioned by them will be allowed. Non-warranty repair work performed by

CAVINS on Customer's equipment is warranted with respect to defects in new replacement materials

only (excluding labor) for a period of ninety days under the same terms as new devices. Goods or

parts thereof not manufactured by CAVINS are warranted only in accordance with the original

manufacturer's warranty, and then only to the extent we are able to enforce it. This warranty isexpressly in lieu of other warranties, obligations or liabilities, expressed or implied by CAVINS or its

representatives. All statutory or implied warranties, other than title, are hereby expressly excluded.

WARRANTY DISCLAIMER: CAVINS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR

IMPLIED, AS TO MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND ANY

OTHER WARRANTIES NOT EXPRESSLY PROVIDED HEREUNDER. CAVINS SHALL NOT BE

LIABLE FOR ANY LOSS, DAMAGE, OR INJURY TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY (WHETHER IT BE

THAT OF CUSTOMER, CUSTOMER'S EMPLOYEES OR AGENTS OR THIRD PERSONS) BY

REASON OF ANY DEFECT IN THE DESIGN, MANUFACTURE, INSTALLATION, USE, REPAIR

INCLUDING ANY INFORMATION, TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE OR SERVICES FURNISHED OR FOR

ANY OTHER REASON. CUSTOMER HEREBY AGREES THAT IT WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL

SUCH RISKS AND WAIVES ANY AND ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES BY CAVINS. CAVINS

ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR SPECIAL, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL

DAMAGES.


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CHANGES IN PRODUCT DESIGN

CAVINS reserves the right to change, discontinue or modify the design and construction of any of itsproducts without incurring any obligation to furnish or install such changes or modifications on products

previously or subsequently sold.

WARNING

DO NOT OPERATE, ADJUST, OR REPAIR THIS TONG WITHOUT PROPER TRAINING. READ

AND UNDERSTAND ALL OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS AND ALL OTHER

WARNINGS CONCERNING SAFETY BEFORE USING THIS TONG. DO NOT REMOVE OR

PAINT OVER WARNING LABELS.

1. READ AND UNDERSTAND OPERATION AND SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS.

2. DO NOT ALLOW ANY PERSON TO OPERATE THE TONG UNTIL THOROUGHLY

TRAINED AND QUALIFIED ON TONG CONTROLS AND FUNCTION.

3. DO NOT OPERATE TONG UNTIL BACKUP LINE IS ATTACHED TO THE TONG AND

ANCHOR POST.

4. DO NOT CRAWL OR STAND UNDER TONG.

5. CAUTION. KEEP HANDS CLEAR OF TONG HEAD WHILE TONG IS IN OPERATION, AS

PARTS INSIDE TONG HEAD ROTATE, KEEP ALL PARTS OF THE BODY AND

CLOTHING AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS.

6. REMOVE THE HYDRAULIC POWER SOURCE HOSES AND SHUT OFF POWER

SUPPLY TO THIS UNIT BEFORE PERFORMING ANY WORK, (i.e., CHANGING TONG

DIES OR JAWS, ADJUSTMENTS, MAINTENANCE, OR LUBRICATION).

7. FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH WARNINGS COULD RESULT IN EQUIPMENT DAMAGE

AND PERSONAL INJURY.

8. IT IS ILLEGAL TO OPERATE THE EQUIPMENT IN AN EU MEMBER STATE IF THE

MANUAL IS NOT WRITTEN IN THAT STATE’S LANGUAGE. PLEASE CONTACT CAVINS

IF A TRANSLATION IS NEEDED.


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SAFE HANDLING PROCEDURE

• Always lift the tong using the eye bolt of the Hanger Assembly with a safety hook or wire lineand shackle.

• Never use wire rope slings, nylon straps or hooks attached to any other feature on the tong (e.ghydraulic fittings, hoses, control handles or control linkages) to lift or manipulate the tong.

• Always remove the Back-up assembly from the tong when transporting.• Do not use forklift blades under the tong to lift the unit as they may damage the underside of the

tong.

• Always use the safety sling when operating the tong.

• Operating noise levels are 90-100 DB. Personnel should take precaution when running the tongby wearing appropriate hearing protection.

• Operating vibration levels are above 2.5m/sec².

• Safety labels have been installed at these locations


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B. SPECIFICATIONS

Size Ranges See Table page 7Maximum Torque (Std Motor) See Table page 7Maximum Torque (Hi Torque Motor) See Table page 7

RPM - High See Table page 7RPM – Low See Table page 7Hydraulic Requirements See Table page 7Length Page 50 & 51Width Page 50 & 51Height Page 50 & 51Weight (approx.) 585 lbs (265 kgs)Vibration Maximum 10G(98 m/sec²)

A-Weighted Noise Level 100 Decibels


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1. INTRODUCTION

The hydraulic-driven CAVINS/BJHYDRATORC® and the air-driven CAVINS/BJ

SUPER POWAIRMATIC® tubing tongs are

manufactured by CAVINS in six models to meet

all your power tubing tong needs.

HYDRATORC PERFORMANCE SPECS

Tubing Size Range: 1.050” Through 4.500” OD

STANDARDMOTOR

HIGHTORQUEMOTOR

Tong Speeds (rpm) @35gpm

High Gear 100 80Low Gear 26 21

Tong Torque @ 2000psift lbs(NM):

High Gear 1200 (1627) 1700 (2305)

Low Gear 4650 (6304) 6650 (9016)

The four hydraulic models -RS, CH, CTS and

BTS -and the two air-driven versions -SA and

BTA -all use the same two-speed transmission.

All models except the CH have the same frame

assembly parts.

The RS model is a gate-type tong with a four-

way control valve that allows the tong to be

reversed without roll-over. The Model SA is the

air-driven version of the RS.

The BTS model is a reversible, short-lever,

gate-type hydraulic tubing tong, and the BTA is

the air-powered model.


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The Model CH is a closed head hydraulic power

tong with reversible motor, and the Model CTS

is a standard length, reversible hydraulic gate-

type power tong. Both can be used for tubing

and casing.

All models handle tubing sizes through

4-1/2” OD. The CH and CTS also will handle

pipe sizes through 5 1/2 inches OD.

SUPER POWAIRMATIC PERFORMANCESPECIFICATIONS

Tubing Size Range: 1.050” Thru’ 4.500” OD*

Tong Speeds (rpm)

High Gear 90Low Gear 24

Tong Torque @ 2000psift lbs (NM):

High Gear 2000 (2711)

Low Gear 6500 (8812)

* Size Range: CTS & CH thru 5-1/2”

The hydraulic-driven tongs are available with

either a standard or high-torque motor. Models

RS, CH, CTS and SA use the same right-angle

gear box.

The bob-tailed tongs, Models BTS and BTA,

use a slightly different gear box which puts the

motor and valve on top of the tongs instead of

on the lever end. Model BTS is shorter than

Model RS by 10 inches. Model BTA is shorter

than Model SA by 13 inches. The length of both

bob-tailed models is 29-1/4 inches from the

centerline of the tubing to the end of the lever.

The shorter models are sometimes desirable ifrig floor space is limited.

2. THE CAM AND ROLLER GRIPPING MECHANISM


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The primary feature of this gripping mechanismis its high initial gripping force which preventsany possibility of slippage, and its low finalgripping force which prevents crimping. This isaccomplished by the angle on the cam surface

of the jaw which decreases the ratio of the dieforce in relation to the torque as the tongtightens up on the tubing.

FIGURE 1 The Jaw and bushing Installed for r ight-handrotation as woul d be the case when going Into the hole.

In Figure 1 note that the bushing and jaw arepart of the inner ring assembly which in turn isactuated by the outer ring assembly. Thebushing is stationary in the inner ring while the

jaw is hinged to point E so that, as the outerring rotates forward with respect to the innerring assembly, the roller D will roll along thecam surface of the jaw and cause it to move incontact with the tubing. In order to develop apositive force of the jaw against the tubing, it isnecessary to restrain the movement of the innerring assembly while the outer ring forces the

jaw inward. This is accomplished by using abrake band, anchored to the top of the framecover, and a brake drum on top of the innerring. (The spring force in the brake bandautomatically maintains the proper drag on theinner ring assembly.) As soon as the initial forceis developed on the jaw, as controlled by thebrake band, the inner ring and outer ringassemblies will rotate as a unit. The brake bandwill continue to retard the inner ring assemblyenough to maintain the minimum die forcenecessary to grip the tubing under allconditions. This feature is particularlyvaluable while drilling or reaming, when"hanging up" would normally tend to break the

hold of the tong. When the tong is removedfrom the tubing, the outer ring is reversed andthe brake band holds the inner ring assemblywhile the roller D releases its force on the jawas it moves toward point E. Roller C thenretracts the front end of the jaw and holds it in

the full open position. The inner ring and outerring assemblies then rotate as a unit until theiropenings line up with the opening in the frameto permit the tong to come off the tubing. Notethat rollers H, G, and F resist the load causedby roller D against the jaw. They also eliminatemost of the friction between the outer ring andinner ring assemblies. Roller C holds the jaw infull open position. If, however, the jaw andbushing are reversed by changing them to theopposite sides, which would be the case incounterclockwise rotation, then rollers C, D, and

F support the inner ring assembly, roller Gactuates the jaw, and roller H then holds the

jaw in the full open position.

Figure 2 shows how the chain drives thegripping mechanism. Note how the chain spansthe opening in the outer ring with no less than15 teeth on the sprocket to drive it. A hydraulicmotor or air motor can furnish the power. Agear box reduces the motor speed to the slidinggear shaft speed in the ratio of 10.5:1. A simpletwo-speed transmission, sealed in an oil bath,

combined with the chain drive, further reducesthe speed from the motor to the tubing for aratio of 27:1 in high gear and a ratio of 102:1 inlow gear.


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3. TONG INSTALLATION

HANGING LINE

Hang the tong on a suitable line (usually a 9/16"wire rope is used) from a point high enough to

allow the tong to swing easily. The tong may behung over a sheave either on a fixed line or acounter-weighted line. There is a spring in thesuspension assembly which will allow the tongto move vertically while the 'joint is being madeup or broken out even if the tong is suspendedon a fixed line.

BACKUP LINE

The backup line must be long enough, andanchored high enough to be level with the tong

(at a90° angle to the tail end of the tong). SeeFigure 3.

IMPORTANT: The backup line MUST pull at a

right angle to tong and be level with the tong. IF

IT DOES NOT:

1. Tubing w ill be marked more than necessary.

2. Die life will be greatly shor tened.

3. Tong may tend to s lip.

The backup line may be either a 9/16" wire ropeor a stiff-arm attachment fabricated from tubing.

A backup line that is too long will be awkward touse. A line that is too short will tend to pull thetong off the tubing and may cause the tong toslip. A line that is anchored too low or too highwill cause the tong to twist, which in turn mayaffect the smooth rotating action of the grippingmechanism. This twisting movement may also

change the distribution of the load on the diesto such an extent that only a portion of the dielength penetrates the tubing, therebyresulting in short die life and excessive diepenetration.

BALANCE ADJUSTMENT

Adjust the balance of the tong by turning thebalancing screw at the top of the hanger andthe hanger set screws at the bottom of eachhanger arm.

HOSE CONNECTIONS

All hydraulic tongs, except Model BTS, have thepressure hose from the pump connected to theright side of the tong (viewed from the back andup-right position). Model BTS has the pressurehose from the pump connected to the left sideof the tong. The hose to the tank is connectedto the bottom of the Model RS and CTS Tongs,and is connected to the top of the Model BTSTong (viewed from the back of each model).

IMPORTANT: The pressure hose and return-line hose must be properly connected to thetong for the correct operation of the controlvalve. If the hoses are not properly connectedto the tong, the throttle will "seize" itself and thetong will not shut off. (All models will operate

with the hoses reversed, but they will tend to jerk or "creep" without stopping completely.They will also run more slowly than normal.)

SELF-SEALING COUPLINGS

IMPORTANT: Check all hoses to make certainthat the self-sealing couplings are completelyengaged and that there is no blockage orshutoff in the hydraulic system.

OIL TANK LEVEL

Check the oil tank level to make certain there isplenty of oil in the system.

OIL CIRCULATION AND WARMUP

With the hoses properly hooked up to the tong,engage the pump and allow the oil to circulatefor a few minutes before operating the tong. Incold weather, allow time for warm-up as youwould for an internal combustion engine.


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4. TONG OPERATION

THROTTLE AND GEAR SHIFT CONTROLS

Motor Actuation. The motor is actuated by moving

the throttle lever either forward or backward,

depending on the desired direction of rotation.

Removing Tong from Tubing. To remove the tong

from the tubing, simply push the throttle lever in thedirection opposite of that required to close the jaws

and the tong will position itself to be swung off the

tubing. When the throttle lever is released it

automatically returns the throttle valve to a neutral

position -if the hoses are hooked up properly.

Low and High Gears. Low gear is used for breaking

tight joints. As soon as a tight joint begins to free up

-indicated by the pull on the backup line -slow the

tong speed and shift into high gear; then accelerate

to the desired speed. Use high gear for spinning and

makeup, unless desired torque requires low gear for

extra high torque makeup.

CAUTION: Be careful with the first joint until you aresure on which side of the tong to stand, because the

tong will swing in a direction to tighten the backup

line.

CHANGING DIRECTION OF TUBING ROTATION

When starting on the job it may be necessary to

change the jaw and bushing to the correct side. The

methods of changing or reversing the jaw and

bushing are explained below. Instead of reversing

the jaw and bushing the same result can be

accomplished by simply turning the tong over in the

hanger - provided the tong is equipped with a roll-

over hanger. The method you choose will depend

upon the job ahead and whether you prefer to have

the motor on the top or the bottom of the tong for

most of the work. All RS and SA tongs equipped

with a positioning valve and check valve must be

turned over to change the direction of tubing

rotation. If a tong is not equipped with a positioning

valve and a check valve, it will bite in either direction

by changing the jaw and bushing from one side to

the other.

Tong Fails to Go on Tubing . If the tong fails to go

onto the tubing, it is probably because the jaw is

partially closed. In this case, run the motor in the

direction that will fully open the jaw and then

proceed to install the tong on the tubing. If this fails

to work, check both the jaw and bushing for proper

size and installation.

Jaw and Bushing Sizes. Jaw and bushing sizes are

stamped according to the actual O.D. of the tubing

that they will fit - not the nominal size of the tubing.

Nominal Stamped Nominal Stamped

3/4" 1.050” 2-1/2” 2-7/8”

1” 1.315” 3” 3-1/2”

1-1/4” 1.660” 3-1/2” 4”

1.750” 4” 4-1/4”

1-1/2” 1.900” 4-1/2”

1-3/4” 2” & 2-1/16” 5”

2” 2-3/8” 5-1/2”


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CHANGING OR REVERSING JAW AND BUSHING

The jaw and bushing on all tongs that are not

equipped with a positioning valve are reversible as

described above, depending upon the desired

direction of rotation. If the jaw is installed on the left

side (standing in front of the tong: as you look intothe opening of the tong with the motor up), the tong

will rotate the tubing to the left. When the jaw is

installed on the right side, it will rotate the tubing to

the right (the direction of tubing rotation when going

into the hole).

Removal of Jaw and Bushing. Position the tong as

if it were to go onto the tubing. Remove the bushing

as indicated in Figure 7. Then, reverse the motor

and move the outer ring slightly, as shown in Figure

8. This will remove any force against the pivot pin of

the jaw so it will come out easily. Finally, remove the

pivot pin and jaw.

NOTE: Remember that it is difficult to remove or to

install the jaw while the bushing is still in place.

Reversal of Jaw and Bush ing . Remove the jaw

and bushing as outlined above. Move the outer ring

slightly so there will be room to get the lip of the

jaw in back of t he f ront ro ller of the outer ring.

Note the difference in the position of the outer ring in

Figures 8 and 9. In Figure 9 the outer ring protrudes


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from the left. In Figure 8 it protrudes from the right.

Make certain that the jaw and bushing are the

correct size. Then install the jaw as shown in Figure

9; install the bushing as shown in Figure 10.

CHANGING DIRECTION OF TUBING ROTATION

WHEN TONG IS EQUIPPED WITH APOSITIONING VALVE AND A ROLLOVER

HANGER

The jaw and bushing of the Models RS, SA and BTS

Tongs are never reversed if the tong is equipped

with a positioning valve and a rollover hanger. The

jaw must be installed on the right side (viewed from

the front with the motor up). When the motor is up,

the tong turns the tubing clockwise. When the tong

is turned over and the motor is down, the tong will

turn the tubing counterclockwise -the motion of the

tubing when coming out of the hole.


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5. TONG MAINTENANCE

HYDRAULIC PUMP SIZE FOR TRAILER-MOUNTED POWER UNIT

A pump is recommended which is capable of no lessthan 30 gallons per minute (gpm). The speed

of the tong is directly proportional to the volumeoutput of the pump. For example, in high gear thetong speed will be 100 rpm at 35 gpm.

HYDRAULIC PUMP PRESSURE FORTRAILERMOUNTED POWER UNIT

The maximum pump pressure to be used is 2000psi. In the pressure range of 1000-2000 psi, thepump volume can be cut in half by unloading onehalf of the pump in the case of a dual pump, orremain at full volume in the case of a single pump.

An adjustable relief valve that will operate in therange of 800-2000 psi is essential for propermakeup torque on the tubing. Most tubingmanufacturers will furnish a chart giving therecommended torque for various grades of tubing.

OIL TANK FOR TRAILER-MOUNTED POWERUNIT

The minimum size of the oil tank should be not lessthan 50 gallons and should contain not less than 35gallons of good hydraulic oil. The oil tank is animportant part of the hydraulic system, and must bedesigned properly so it will dissipate heat, not foam,and will deliver clean oil to the pump suction unit

without undue friction loss. An oil filter is usuallyinstalled inside the tank on the suction line to thepump. This filter should be inspected periodicallyand cleaned when necessary.

HOSES

The power and return hoses should be 1" x 50' foruse on a trailer power unit and 1" x 15' for use on awell service rig. Quick-connect couplings shouldbe installed on the ends of the hoses and the tongfor ease of connection and conservation of hydraulicoil.

LUBRICATION

There are six grease fittings that lubricate the idlerroller bearings carrying the outer ring, five greasefittings that lubricate the rollers between the innerand outer rings, and one grease fitting on top of thedrive sprocket. These points should be lubricatedevery eight hours. The bearings are well protected,but on wet jobs dirt and sand will eventually workinto them if they do not receive grease regularly.

This is particularly true if rotary mud is used in thehole on work-over jobs. Grease added regularly tothese points is a very effective way to keep the dirtand sand pushed away from them.

Occasional grease should be added to the following:1. One grease fitting on the right-angle gear box(upper transmission).2. One grease fitting on the hydraulic motor.3. Two grease fittings on the throttle cable of theModel BTS Tong.4. One grease fitting on each gear shift handle.

Jaw and Bushing Pins. Use grease on the jaw andBushing pins and oil on all contact points betweenthe inner ring and the outer ring. (Failure to keepthese points lubricated will have a tendency to causethe tong to slip, as explained in the TroubleShooting section of this manual.)

Hanger Pins and Balancing Screw Bolt . Lubricatethe two hanger pins, the two hanger bolts, and thebalancing screw bolt with light oil and note howeasily the tong turns over. These points are oftenneglected.

Transmission Oil. Use any good grade of S.A.E. 90transmission oil in the transmission. Check the oillevel and add oil when necessary. Approximatelyone gallon of oil is required.

Right-Angle Gear Box (Upper Transmission). The

right-angle gear box is packed at the factory andshould not need repacking under ordinarycircumstances. However, the gear box should bechecked about every 3 to 4 months to make surethat nothing unusual has happened to necessitaterepacking. To provide an air bleed, remove thebearing cover capscrew farthest from the greasefitting in the side of the right-angle gear box. Pumpthe grease through the grease fitting until it begins toshow through the capscrew hole.


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6. TROUBLE SHOOTING

JAWS SLIP ON TUBING

The initial grip or die force is governed by theeffective drag of the brake band. The brake band

causes the "knifing in" action of the jaw assembly.(The brake band also supplies the force that opensthe jaw when it is removed from the tubing.)

Brake Band Effectiveness. The effectiveness ofthe brake band can be lessened by anyone of thefollowing:1. Too much oil on the brake band lining.2. lack of lubrication on the jaw pivot pin.3. lack of lubrication between the inner ring andouter rings. Make sure that the rollers between theinner and outer rings are lubricated and turn freely.4. lack of clearance between the inner and outerrings.5. A permanent set or opening up of the brake band.6. A worn out brake band lining.

Inspection of Tong Not Holding Properly . Aninspection of a tong that is not holding properlyshould include the following:1. If the dies are bad, change them. Be certain thatthe buttress teeth are facing in the proper direction:the buttress teeth should face away from the pivotpin in both the jaw and the bushing. If the dies lookgood, postpone changing them until everything elseis checked.2. Check the inner ring for wear and make sure that

it has clearance. It may be necessary to remove thebrake band pins to do this. If the inner ring is tight,there is either foreign matter between the inner ringand outer rings, or the inner ring is sprung. (It is notlikely that the inner ring will be sprung.)3. Remove the jaw and bushing. Make sure both jawand bushing are the correct size. Replace themproperly after lubricating the pivot pins. The pivot pinand the pivot pin holes in the jaw and bushing aresometimes worn so that a sloppy fit results; the jawwill then slip on the tubing. All worn parts must bereplaced.4. Check the brake band lining and end connections.

It may be necessary to wipe off excess oil or greasewith a rag soaked in solvent, distillate or kerosene. Ifthe brake band has taken a "set" it may benecessary to change it. (The recommendedprocedure for changing the brake band is given inSection 7: Shop Repairs.) A new brake band notunder tension (i.e., when off the drum) will measure3" from one end connector to the other. A new brakeband under tension measures 5" when on the drum,which means that it has been stretched 2'; from its

relaxed position to the position it will take on thedrum.Since the band is made of heavy spring steel itrequires 150 Ibs. of pull to open the band 2"between the end connectors. If a band measured 4"when off the drum and 5" when on the drum it wouldhave only 1" stretch in it -which would give half thegripping force, or about 75 Ibs. This would probablynot be enough force under severe conditions.Considering other factors such as alloy tubing, wet

jobs and human judgment (men have different ideasabout when dies are dull), the decision to change abrake band must be left to the discretion of theservicemen.5. Check the wear on the outer ring rollers, pins, andbushings. Replace all worn parts.

DRIVE CHAIN IS TOO LOOSE

Loosen the nut on the bottom of the idler sprocket

shaft. Remove the small capscrew in the idlersprocket adjustment plate, and remove theadjustment plate. Having lined up the opening of theouter ring with the opening in the frame of the tong,turn the idler sprocket shaft until it starts to lift theouter ring at the back. Then slack off slightly. If thechain is too loose for a single adjustment to take theslack out of it, turn the idler sprocket shaft until thecross-cut notch on one corner of the square facesfront-wards. Replace the adjustment plate andcapscrew, and adjust the other shaft. A worn chainmay run somewhat loose after it is adjusted formaximum take-up. If this seems objectionable

because the chain will drag on the case, it is usuallypossible to shorten the chain by a half link.

MOTOR FAILS TO RUN, RUNS SLOWLY, ORLACKS POWER

The hydraulic motor used on CAVINS/BJ PowerTubing Tongs is a positive displacement gear typemotor. The characteristics of this motor are that it wilturn a given number of revolutions for a givenquantity of power oil delivered to it, and will developa given amount of torque for a given pressure. Mostlosses in speed or power can be traced back to the

pump system supplying oil to the motor.

MOTOR TURNS, BUT TONGS DOES NOT TURN

If the motor turns (as determined by listening to themotor) but the tong does not turn, first check to seeif the transmission is fully engaged. If thetransmission is engaged and the tong still does notturn, it is likely that a key or shaft is sheared, or thatteeth are broken from a gear, or that the chain isbroken. Preliminary inspection to determine thelocation of the trouble requires removing the upper


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bearing covers to see which shaft may not beturning. If the trouble is found at this point, it mayonly be necessary to remove the gear case cover inorder to make repairs; if the trouble is not found, itwill be necessary to dismantle the tong as describedon pages 21 to 26.

TRANSMISSION JUMPS OUT OF GEAR

Loose Gear Shift Handles. Nuts holding the gearshift handles to the shaft should be made up tightly(a 7/8" box wrench is a suitable tool for the purpose).If this causes the tong to shift with difficulty, it meansthat the gear shift handle lock pins are rubbing thecase too hard. Either the pins or springs are frozenor the shift handles are bent. Do not loosen thehandles to correct this situation; loosened handlespermit the square hole in the handles to wear so thatthe tong does not fully engage in gear.

Bent Gear Shift Handles. Bent gear shift handlesdo not permit the gears to be properly enmeshedwhen the gear shift handle lock pins drop into theirrecesses in the frame. Remove the handles from thegear shift shaft one at a time; heat them with a torchand bend them until the shift lock pins fit in placeproperly when the tong is fully engaged in both highand low gears.

Gear Shift Lock Pins Frozen. If grease cannot beworked into the shift lock pins in order to free them,remove the handle and the grease fitting and driveout the pins and springs with a small punch. The

gear shift lock pins are made of stainless steel, and13 a little cleaning should make them work freelyagain.

Worn Shifting Fingers. Bent gear shift handles,due to rough usage (such as loading out,transporting, or unloading), may cause the shiftingfingers to run in a bind while in one gear or theother. Extensive use of the tong in this conditioncauses the gear shifting fingers to wear excessivelyand may necessitate replacing them. To changeworn shifting fingers, drain the oil from thetransmission case and remove the frame cover.

Remove the chain and right angle gear boxassembly. Replace any worn fingers. Make sure thefinger pins clear the inside contour of the yoke anddo not bind either on the side or the bottom of thegroove in the high speed driven gear. Inspect boththe high-speed driven gear and the high-speeddriver gear for wear, and replace them in necessary.Before attempting to replace the right-angle gearbox assembly, knock out both bearings in the bottomof the lower transmission. After bolting down theright-angle gear box assembly, turn the tong overand replace the bottom bearings. Replace gaskets

before securing the bearing cover plates. For moredetailed instructions, see the Shop Repairs sectionof this manual.

Worn Key or Key Lodged Deep In Gear ShiftShaft. To change the key on the gear shift shaft,proceed as above for changing the gear shift fingersOnly one gear shift handle need be removed topermit the shaft to slide out. Before replacing thekey, make certain that the “O” rings are in goodcondition.

TONG DOES NOT POSITION CORRECTLY

Too Much or Not Enough oil on the Brake Band.If the brake band is soaked with oil, it may not holdwell enough to keep the gripping mechanism fromrunning past the opening in the frame. Either wipethe oil off with a rag, or clean the lining of the brakeband with a rag soaked in cleaning solvent. A dry

brake band may cause the tong to stop too quickly. A little oil added to the dry band should make itfunction properly.

Positioning Valve Not Adjusted. The height of thepositioning valve should be such that as the cam onthe outer ring sprocket comes under the valve, therotation of the outer ring is almost stopped. Thetong is designed so that the outer ring will "creep"slightly when the positioning valve is closed by thecam. Thus, if the cam happens to fall directly underthe valve when a joint is completely made up, it can"creep" out from under the valve, and the outer ring

can continue the reverse rotation necessary torelease the jaw from the tubing. If the valve is set toolow the tong will not "creep". If the valve is set toohigh the tong will not stop. By backing out the twoset screws that lock the body of the valve to theflange, the flange can be screwed up or down andlocked in half turn increments until the proper heightis obtained. (In case the positioning valve body hasbeen removed, the "In" port of the valve body is onthe right for the Model RS Tong, when viewed fromthe front.)

OIL IS LEAKING FROM TRANSMISSION CASE

Oil Leaking Heavily. If oil is leaking heavily aroundthe sliding gear shaft when the tong is upside-down,remove the right angle gear box assembly andreplace the sliding gear shaft seal. This necessitatesthe disassembly procedure described earlier, in thesection entitled Worn Shifting Fingers.


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Oil Leaking Lightly. If oil is leaking lightly from thelower transmission, the right-angle gear box weephole, or if after removing the transmission fill plugyou see that the transmission case is full of hydraulicoil -either remove the hydraulic motor and replacethe oil seal, or install a new motor. (When the motoroil seal begins to leak, it usually indicates that themotor is worn out and should be replaced.)


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7. SHOP REPAIRS

CHANGING BRAKE BAND ON NEWER MODEL

TONGS

Align the opening of the inner and outer rings with

the opening in the tong frame. Remove the six

capscrews from the brake band cover plate as

shown in Figure 11. Pry off the old brake band,

which is located directly under the cover plate. Apply

grease liberally to the lining of the new brake band

and to the inside of the eye on each end of the band

as shown in Figure 12. Put the new brake band on

the inner ring and knock out the wooden spacer as

shown in Figure 13. If the new band does not have a

spacer, a piece of wood 5 1/2" long can be inserted

as shown in Figure 14. The brake band cover can

then be replaced and the six capscrews reinstalled.

NOTE: When the cover plate is replaced, make

certain that the two brake pins in the cover plate

enter the eye openings at each end of the brake

band.

CHANGING BRAKE BAND ON OLDER MODELTONGS

Brake band replacement will be simplified if the gap

in the outer ring is first aligned with the gate.


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Turn the tong on its side or upside down and drive

out the two 3/4" dowel pins at the front of the tong,

as shown in Figure 15. (This is not always necessary

but it usually makes the job easier.) Remove the

positioning valve and the two hoses going to it (if the

tong is so equipped.)

If the tong is equipped with a rollover hanger, put a

small block between the frame and the lower hanger

arm. Remove the hanger pin in the upper hanger

arm. The block between the frame and the lower

hanger arm prevents the end of the upper hanger

arm from cocking up and out of alignment with the

holes in the hanger bracket. Next, remove the

following: four roller shaft nuts, the guard top half,

two brake band pins, and two frame cover bolts at

the back of the frame cover. Removal of the brake

band pins ensures easier installation of the cover

when the tong is reassembled. Use a small bar

between the outer ring and the cover to loosen the

front of the frame cover. At the same time pry up at

the back of the frame cover. It is important to pry up

evenly on the frame cover. Remove it as in Figure

16. Remove the old brake band.

Apply grease liberally to the lining of the new band.

Put the new brake band on the inner ring and knock

out the wooden spacer as described above. If the

new band does not have a spacer, a piece of wood

51/2" long can be inserted as shown in Figure 14.

CAUTION: Do not stretch the band farther than

necessary to get the spacer in place. To do so may

give the band a permanent set. Tighten the chain as

shown in Figure 17 enough to take the slack out of it

but not enough to raise the back of the outer ring.

NOTE: The idler sprocket shaft is notched in one

corner of the square that fits the idler sprocket

adjusting plate. When this notch is facing frontwards

it indicates maximum tightness of the chain.


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Replace the frame cover. Keep the back end up,

level with the front end as it is driven down. Use a

lead hammer or wooden block to drive the cover

down. The cover fits tightly, but it will not go down

with difficulty if it goes down evenly. Some trouble

might occur if the dowel pins or brake band (anchor)

pins have been left in the frame and cover. Note

also that if the chain has been adjusted too tightly it

may not allow the top of the idler sprocket shafts to

line up evenly with the cover.

Replace the guard top half. A star washer must be

placed under the guard nut to give the guard proper

clearance above the frame cover. Figure 18

illustrates an easy method to install the guard spring.

Drive in the two frame cover dowel pins.

If it is necessary to readjust the chain for tightness,

tighten the chain as described above. Then install

the capscrew in the idler sprocket adjusting plate.

Replace the frame cover bolts, roller shaft alemite

nuts, and the guard bolt.

With a small block between the frame and the lower

hanger arm install the upper hanger pin. Install the

positioning valve. Install the brake band pins,

making certain that the brake band is aligned with

the opening in the frame.

REMOVING SUBASSEMBLIES FROM TONG

Outer Ring Assembly. Remove the hanger and

frame cover as described above under Changing

Brake Bands On Older Model Tongs . With the

gear shift lever in neutral, rotate the gripping

mechanism until the roller chain assembly can bedisconnected and removed. Turn the opening of the

outer ring to each of the back idler roller assemblies.

Unscrew the nuts from the bottom ends of the shafts

and lift the idler roller assemblies out of the frame

(Figure 19). Finally, turn the opening of the outer

ring toward one of the idler sprocket roller

assemblies and lift out the outer ring assembly

(Figure 20).


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Removal of Motor . Disconnect the motor port piping

(Figure 21). Remove the four capscrews holding the

motor to the transmission. Separate the motor from

the right-angle gear box (Figure 22).

Removal of Right-Angle Gear Box from Frame

and Transmission. Drain the oil from the lower

transmission. Remove the two gear box cover dowel

pins (Figure 23). Remove the five transmission case

cap screws. You may drive out the dowel pins

before the capscrews are removed: this will prevent

damage to the snap rings or to the snap ring

grooves on the bottom end of the drive shaft and

sliding gear shaft. Turn the tong upside down and

remove the two gear box bearing plates and the two

snap rings from the ends of the drive shaft and

sliding gear shaft (Figure 24). Support the

transmission assembly enough to hold it level with

the frame while driving the two shafts from their

bearings with a bronze punch. Tap first on one shaft,

then the other, being careful not to damage the snap

ring grooves.


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Removal of Transmission. Turn the tong right side

up (Figure 25). Remove the high-speed driven gear

and the two gear shift fingers. Remove one gear


24/57



shift handle -it makes no difference which you

choose to remove. Using a bronze punch, drive the

gear shift actuator yoke out of the gear shift shaft; at

the same time pull outward on the remaining gear

shift handle (Figure 26). Remove the key after it

comes out of the yoke. Remove the low-speed

driven gear and the thrust washer (Figure 27). Tap

out both bearings from the transmission case (Figure

28). These bearings will not go back into place until

after the right angle-gear box has been fitted to the

transmission case.

DISASSEMBLING TONG SUBASSEMBLIES

Disassembling Gripping Mechanism. Remove the

six outer ring sprocket bolts. It may be necessary to

use a chisel or punch to loosen the four front

screws, and an end wrench or box wrench to loosen

the nuts on the back bolts. Remove the outer ring

sprocket from the outer ring. It may be necessary to

drive the sprocket off of the two dowel pins using a

hammer and bronze punch. Remove the five roller

pins and the outer ring rollers. Note that the two

smaller rollers are in front (5 smaller rollers on the

Model CTS Tong), adjacent to the opening. Lift out

the inner ring.


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Disassembling Idler Roller Assemblies . Remove

the larger of the two idler roller bearing retaining

rings (Figure 29). Drive or press the shaft and

bearing toward the opening of the idler roller. All

rollers have knockout holes to assist in removing the

bearing from the roller. Remove the smaller retaining

rings from the shaft (Figure 30), and press or drive

the bearing from the shaft (Figure 31). Always install

a new bearing by driving or pressing on the race that

is tight -this will ensure that the load is not

transmitted to the balls of the bearing.


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Disassembling Right-Angle Gear Box . First,

remove the following: the two upper bearing covers,

the two snap rings, the two upper bearings, the two

upper bearing cages, and the shims (Figures 32 and

33). Remove the right-angle gear box cover (Figure

34). Remove the bevel gear and counter shaft

assemblies (Figure 35). Remove the bevel pinion

assembly by taking out the four bearing cage

capscrews (Figure 36). Remove the driven gear

snap ring (Figure 37), and the bevel gear shaft lower

bearing inner race. After removing the bearing inner

race, use a heavy punch in the bottom of the hole to

force out the drive shaft assembly (Figure 38). If the

drive shaft upper bearing is tightly lodged in the gear

case, use the following disassembly tactic: remove

the driven gear; remove the drive shaft bearing

retaining ring; press the drive shaft out th rough the

top of the transmission case. If this tactic is used, becareful not damage the snap ring groove on the end

of the drive shaft.

REASSEMBLING TONG SUBASSEMBLIES

Reassembling Gripping Mechanism . Install the

inner ring with three large outer ring rollers and two

small outer ring rollers. The two small rollers go next

to the opening in the outer ring. (There are five small

rollers on the Model CTS Tong). Install the outer ring

sprocket with: two dowel pins, four short outer ring

sprocket bolts, and two long outer ring sprocketbolts. The short bolts, without nuts and lock

washers, go in the front next to the opening in the

outer ring. The holes in the outer ring for the short

bolts are threaded; the bolt must not extend into the

outer ring far enough to interfere with the jaw or front

roller. The nuts on the back bolts should be

tightened with a wrench. The heads of all four bolts

should be staked with a center punch to prevent

loosening.

Reassembling Idler Roller Ass emblies. Press the

bearing which has one side sealed on the idler rollershaft, with the seal located at the end opposite to the

grease fitting. Install retaining rings on each side of

the bearing. Press or drive the bearing into the idler

roller, keeping the sealed side of the bearing at the

open end of the idler roller. Install the large retaining

ring in the idler roller (Figure 29).


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NOTE: There are three different shafts used in the

six rollers. In all instances, the sealed side of the

bearing is the side farthest from the grease fitting. In

all instances, the sealed side of the bearing is at the

open end of the roller. When installed in the tong,

the open end of the back roller is up and the other

four rollers have the open end down (Figure 39).

Reassembling Bevel Pinion Cage Assembly fo r

Motor Gear Case. Press the outboard bearing into

the bearing cage, keeping the sealed side of the

bearing against the shoulder inside the cage. Install

the snap ring. Press the inboard bearing on the

bevel pinion. Add the spacer, the outboard bearing,

and the cage. When it is assembled the snap ring

will be on the inside, and the seal of the bearing will

be on the outside of the assembly.

Make up the bevel pinion locknut with approximately

100 ft. Ibs. of torque. Punch the shield of the locknut

into the outside keyway of the pinion.

Reassembling Right -Angle Gear Box Assembly.

This is the longest and most complicated of the

reassemblies. Pay special attention to the order of

the procedures which follow.

1. Check the keyways on the drive shaft. If

necessary, remove any burrs with a mill file.

2. Install the drive shaft oil seal on the drive shaft,

with the lip edge facing the bearing.

3. Press the drive shaft upper bearing far enough

onto the shaft to make room for the remaining parts.

4. Install the spacer, the high-speed drive gear, and

the low-speed drive gear. The long hubs of the two

gears face each other.

5. Install the drive shaft keys. File the keys lightly to

remove any burrs, so that the keys will press into the

two gears by hand. Do not force the keys by driving

on them. Remove any high spots on the key by

stroking it while laying it flat on a sharp mill file.

6. Install the drive shaft oil seal retaining ring in thegear case and press the drive shaft assembly back

against the retaining ring.

7. Install the sliding gear shaft oil seal in the gear

case. The lip of this seal is down in order to hold the

oil in the transmission case below it.

8. Install the sliding gear shaft, the drive sprocket,

and the sliding gear shaft upper bearing. The sealed

side of the bearing should face the sprocket; the

short hub side of the sprocket faces downward.

Make sure the lip of the seal is properly seated.

9. Install the Counter Shaft Bottom Bearing. Install

the driven gear, key, and retaining ring.

10. Install the countershaft assembly, the bevel gear

shaft assembly, the right-angle gear box cover and

gasket.

11. Install the upper bearing cage assembly and the

snap ring on the bevel gear shaft only. Leave off the

upper bearing cover temporarily.

12. Install the bevel pinion cage assembly with the

correct number of shims to give full tooth contact, as

illustrated in Figure 40. The bevel gear inspection

hole has been drilled in the side of the case for the

purpose of viewing this alignment. (Figure 41).

13. After the horizontal alignment of the bevel gear

and bevel pinion has been established, use the

upper bearing cage shims to adjust the backlash in

these two gears. While making this adjustment it is

necessary to tightly screw down the upper bearing

cover. Lock the bevel gear with a screw-driver, andfeel the backlash in the pinion. Rotate the bevel gear

one entire revolution to ensure that there are no tight

spots. The backlash should be 0.003"-0.005".


28/57



14. After the proper backlash has been found, use

the same thickness of shims for the counter shaft

(on the cage assembly). This will then give full tooth

contact on the other gears in the case.

15. The grease capacity of the right-angle gear box

is about five pounds. To fill a dry case, install a

grease fitting in the inspection hole; remove one of

the bearing plate capscrews farthest from the grease

fitting; pump in grease until it comes out of the

capscrew hole. If a grease gun is not available, it will

be necessary to remove the gear case cover and

pack grease into the corners by hand.

REPLACING SUBASSEMBLIES ON TONGS

Replacing Transmission Sub-assembly. Like the

right-angle gear box assembly above, replacement

of the transmission subassembly is an extensive

procedure. Again, pay special attention to the order

of the steps given below.

1. Install the low-speed driven gear and thrust

washer as shown in Figure 27.

2. Add to the gear shift shaft: one “O” ring and one

gear shift handle next to the “O” ring.

3. When the gear shift shaft and handle are pushed

through the case, add: the gear shift actuator yoke,

the key, and the second “O” ring; the gear shift

handle lock pins and springs; the second gear shift

handle. The keyway offset in the yoke should be

down. Make up extra tightly the nuts holding the

gear shift handles. Be sure to install the nut retaining

cotters.

4. Center the yoke in the case.

5. Install the gear shift fingers and the high-speed

driven gear. The finger offset should be down.

6. Set the transmission in high gear. Lay a scale

across the case (without a gasket) and measure to

the high-speed driven gear as shown in Figure 42.

This measurement should be 1/32"-1/16" down from

the top of the case.

7. Shift the transmission into low gear and center the

gears in the case. The high-speed driven gear must

seat fully into the low-speed driven gear.


29/57



NOTE: The transmission must shift hard enough to

ensure that it will not drop out of high gear while

running. If the gears do not position correctly in

Items 6 and 7 above, see the Trouble Shooting

section of this manual (under the heading

Transmission Jumps Out of Gear ) for information

on adjusting the shift handles.

8. Before attempting to install the right-angle gear

box assembly in the transmission case, check both

snap ring grooves on the drive shaft, and the sliding

gear shaft. If the snap rings do not close properly or

turn freely in the grooves, it is possible to realign the

grooves with a knife edge file as in Figure 43. Roll

the shaft as 'it is filed and hold the file square so it

will not round the edge of the groove.

9. Affix the transmission case cover gasket (Figure

44) to the lower case using either grease or cement.

10. With the tong set in low gear, carefully center the

gears and the thrust washer. Install the right-angle

gear box assembly, as shown in Figures 44 and 45.

First, position the sliding gear shaft into the square

of the high-speed driven gear. It may then be

necessary to turn the gears slightly with the chain

sprocket in order to mesh the gears inside the

transmission. A misalignment is almost certain to be

present at this point: it occurs at the place where the

sliding gear shaft enters the thrust washer, which is

positioned under ·the low-speed driven gear.


30/57



11. Drive in the dowel pins (Figure 47) and tightendown the right-angle gear box with five capscrews.

12. Turn the tong over and install the sliding gearshaft and the drive shaft lower bearings as shown inFigure 48.

13. Carefully install the snap rings. Do not spread

the snap rings more than necessary to get themover the shaft because they are easily sprung out ofshape. Make sure that they are well seated, thatthey turn freely, and are not loose. It may benecessary to pry up on the drive sprocket in order toget the sliding gear shaft far enough through thebearing to get the snap ring on it.

14. Install the bottom bearing plates and gaskets.

Replacing Gripping Mechanism Subassembly.Set the outer ring assembly in the frame, keepingthe brake drum up. With the outer ring assemblyturned toward each of the six roller stations, installeach idler roller through the opening of the outerring.

NOTE:

1. The sealed side of the bearing will always be atthe open end of the roller.

2. The shaft will have the grease fitting at the endopposite from the sealed side of the bearing.

3. The two back idler rollers have the open end ofthe roller up. The shafts are short and fasten to theframe only, with the grease fittings on the bottom ofthe frame. Since 1972, the two rear shafts havebeen keyed.

4. The two front rollers have the open end of theroller down. The grease fittings are up . Since 1974,the two front rollers have been smaller O.D. than therear rollers.

5. The open end of the middle rollers (idler sprocketroller) is down.

6. The open end of the idler sprocket is up . Theopen end of this sprocket is covered with the spaceras shown in Figure 39. There are no other spacerson this shaft.

The remainder of the assembly is replaced the same

as on pages 19 -21, Changing Brake Band On Older

Model Tongs, at the beginning of this section.


31/57



REPLACEMENT PARTS AND EXPLODED DIAGRAMS

MODEL RS POWER TUBING TONG


32/57



8. REPLACEMENT PARTS – FRAME ASSEMBLY WITH ROLL OVER HANGER


33/57



REF. PART NUMBERNUMBER NUMBER REQUIRED PART DESCRIPTION

-- 34892 Model RS Tong complete with positioner and roll-overhanger; less jaws, bushings, hoses and quick-connectcouplings

-- 34891 Model RS Tong complete with rigid hanger; withoutpositioner, jaws, bushings, hoses and quick-connectcouplings

1 15490-5 1 Frame Weldment2 34898 1 Frame Cover2A 35129-4 1 Brake Band Cover2B 939100-23 5 Capscrew, Brake Band Cover2C 939352-3 10 Lock Washer, Brake Band Cover Capscrew2D 939097-3 3 Capscrew2E 939097-33 2 Capscrew 3 939097-55 2 Frame Cover Bolt, 5/8" x 2"3B 939212-6 2 Frame Cover Nut

3C 939643-11 2 Frame Cover Lock Washer4 943631-70 1 Frame Cover Dowel Pin, 3/4" x 2"

30837 1 Guard Assembly, Top Half (Ref. 5, 11, 12)5 30871 1 Guard, Top Half6 52814 1 Guard, Bottom Half7 15495-1 1 Top Guard Nut8 15495-2 1 Bottom Guard Nut9 939097-34 1 Guard Capscrew, 1/2" x 1 3/4"9A 939212-5 1 Flexloc Nut10 16448 1 Guard Spring11 30874 1 Guard Spring Housing12 16481 1 Guard Spring Housing Pin, 3/8" x 2 1/4"

13 939097-73 1 Guard Spring Bolt, 3/8" x 2"13A 941442-3 1 Flexloc Nut

30685-1 1 Roll-Over Hanger Assembly (Ref. 14-29)14 16352 2 Hanger15 15532 1 Hanger Balancing Screw16 34729 1 Hanger Rocker Arm16A 34731 1 Hanger Spacer17 16497 1 Hanger Locking Spring18 940918-273 1 Hanger Balancing Screw Bolt, 3/4" x8"18A 939212-7 1 Nut18B 939352-6 1 Washer19 940918-151 2 Hanger Rocker Arm Bolt, 5/8" x 31/2"

19A 939212-6 2 Nut19B 939352-64 2 Washer20 939171-62 2 Hanger Set Screw, 1/2" x 1 3/4"21 939248-5 2 Hanger Set Screw Jam Nut22 16355 2 Hanger Pin, 5/8" x 3 1/8"22A 947129-151 4 Spirol Pin

16377 1 Suspension Spring Assembly (Ref. 23-29)23 16683 1 Suspension Spring Housing24 16378 1 Suspension Spring Shank25 939484-8 1 Suspension Spring Shank Nut25A 939672-28 1 Cotter Pin


34/57




26 16446 1 Suspension Spring, Outer26A 27955 1 Suspension Spring, Inner27 16682 1 Suspension Spring Washer

28 16379-1 1 Suspension Spring HousingUpper Cap with Eye Bolt and Nut

29 16380 1 Suspension Spring Housing Lower Cap30 15495 5 Roller Shaft Alemite Nut31 944401-17 3 Roller Shaft Elastic Stop Nut, 3/4"32 939643-13 7 Roller Shaft Washer, 7/8"33 16480 2 Idler Sprocket Adjustment Plate34 939097-3 2 Idler Sprocket Adjustment Plate Capscrew, 3/8" x 3/4"-- 30835 2 Front Idler Roller Assembly (Ref. 35-39)35 15494-5 1 Front Idler Roller Shaft Assembly36 30870 1 Idler Roller (Front)36A 15491 1 Idler Roller (Back)

37 979103-4 1 Idler Roller Bearing38 941156-281 1 Idler Roller Bearing Retaining Ring39 942685-118 2 Idler Roller Assembly Retaining Ring-- 30361 2 Back Idler Roller Assembly (Ref. 41 and 36A-39)41 30360-2 1 Back Idler Roller Shaft Assembly41A 940895-606 1 Key-- 15493-1 2 Idler Sprocket Assembly (Ref. 43-46)43 15493 1 Idler Sprocket44 942384-36 2 Outer Idler Sprocket Bearing44A 942394-42 2 Inner Idler Sprocket Bearing45 15498 1 Idler Sprocket Bearing Retaining Washer46 941156-231 1 Idler Sprocket Bearing Retaining Ring

-- 15492-2 2 Idler Sprocket Roller Shaft Assembly (Ref. 46A-50)46A 15496-5 1 Idler Sprocket Shaft Assembly47 15492 1 Idler Sprocket Roller48 979103-4 1 Idler Sprocket Roller Bearing49 941157-281 1 Idler Sprocket Roller Bearing Retaining Ring50 942685-118 1 Idler Sprocket Roller Assembly Retaining Ring51 15500 2 Idler Sprocket Spacer-- 15533-1 2 Gear Shift Handle Assembly (Ref. 52 and 55) 52 15533 2 Gear Shift Handle55 940308-1 2 Gear Shift Handle Grease Fitting53 15516 2 Gear Shift Handle Lock Pin54 16977 2 Gear Shift Handle Lock Pin Spring

56 15534 1 Gear Shift Shaft57 939484-5 2 Gear Shift Shaft Slotted Nut, 5/8"57A 939672-17 2 Cotter Pin58 23056 2 Gear Shift Shaft Bushing-- 942271-17 2 Bushing “O” Ring59 942271-11 2 Gear Shift Shaft "O" Ring60 939995-812 1 Gear Shift Shaft Key61 15501 1 Gear Shift Actuator Yoke62 15502 2 Gear Shift Finger63 15512 1 High Speed Driven Gear


35/57




-- 15511-1 1 Low Speed Driven Gear Assembly (Ref. 64-65)64 15511 1 Low Speed Driven Gear65 15537 1 Low Speed Driven Gear Bushing

66 15507 1 Low Speed Driven Gear Thrust Washer67 979054-304 1 Sliding Gear Shaft Lower Bearing68 979102-5304 1 Drive Shaft Lower Bearing69 15505 2 Frame (Bottom) Gear Box Bearing Plate70 16979 2 Frame (Bottom) Gear Box Bearing Plate Gasket71 941286-25 6 Bearing Plate Capscrew, 1/4" x 1/2"72 940257-2 1 Gear Case Drain Plug, 1/4"73 947915-11 1 Roller Chain Assembly with Connecting

Link and Offset Link, 1 ·1/4" x 82 1/2"-- 17906-2 1 Outer Ring Assembly (Ref. 76-80)76 17906 1 Outer Ring77 17916 3 Outer Ring Large Roller

78 17917 2 Outer Ring Small Roller79 17918 5 Roller Bushing80 17919 5 Roller Pin80A 940308-1 5 Grease Fitting-- 17921-1 1 Outer Ring Sprocket Assembly (Ref. 81-83)81 17921 1 Outer Ring Sprocket82 15519 1 Positioning Valve Cam83 939705-43 2 Positioning Valve Cam Rivet84 941238-75 4 Outer Ring Sprocket Bolt (Short), 1/2" x 1 1/4"85 941238-108 2 Outer Ring Sprocket Bolt (Long), 1/2" x 2"85A 941442-5 2 Lock Nut86 943631-92 2 Outer Ring Sprocket Dowel Pin, 5/8" x 3"

87 17907 1 Inner Ring88 30862 1 Brake Band Assembly89 15528 2 Brake Band Pin90 17920 2 Jaw and Bushing Pin90A 939672-35 2 Cotter Pin95 939568-155 4 Socket Hex Set Screw95A 939248-5 4 Jam Nut-- 39768 1 Cover Plate-- 941066-90 2 Brake Band Cover Plate Groove Pin-- X-Sling 1 Safety Sling

JAW AND BUSHING ASSEMBLIES

91 23446-1 1 1.050 Jaw Assembly92 23447-1 1 1.050 Bushing Assembly91 29373-1 1 1.315 Jaw Assembly92 29374-1 1 1.315 Bushing Assembly91 29310-1 1 1.660 Jaw Assembly92 29307-1 1 1.660 Bushing Assembly91 29802-1 1 1.750 Jaw Assembly92 29801-1 1 1.750 Bushing Assembly91 29309-1 1 1.900 Jaw Assembly92 29306-1 1 1.900 Bushing Assembly


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91 29308-1 1 2 and 2-1/16 Jaw Assembly92 29305-1 1 2 and 2-1/16 Bushing Assembly91 27477-1 1 2-3/8 Jaw Assembly

92 27645-1 1 2-3/8 Bushing Assembly91 27481-1 1 2-7/8 Jaw Assembly

92 27660-1 1 2-7/8 Bushing Assembly91 17912-1 1 3-1/2 Jaw Assembly

92 17913-1 1 3-1/2 Bushing Assembly91 23624-1 1 4 Jaw Assembly92 23623-1 1 4 Bushing Assembly91 24553-1 1 4-1/2 Jaw Assembly92 24552-1 1 4-1/2 Bushing Assembly

DIES

93 29378 3 1.315 Die93 29313 3 1.660 Die93 29312 3 1.900 Die93 29311 3 2 and 2-1/16 Die93 27494-1 3 2-3/8 Die93 27498-1 3 2-7/8 Die93 6473 3 3-1/2 and 4 Die93 24554 3 4-1/2 Die

98 943631-69 2 Gear Box Cover Dowel Pin, 5/8" x 2"-- 32331 1 Front End Control Assembly

100 31312 1 Control Bracket Weldment101 28019 1 Shift Bracket Weldment102 28022 1 Shifter Rod Weldment102A 941442-3 3 Flexloc Nut103 28023 1 Throttle Rod Weldment103A 939370-9 1 Washer103B 939672-11 1 Cotter Pin104 28020 1 Clamp Plate105 28021 1 Shifter Lever106 942723-13 1 Throttle Rod Ball107 941286-93 1 Capscrew, 3/8" x 1 1/2"107A 941439-3 1 Nut

108 941286-93 2 Capscrew, 3/8" x 1 1/2"108A 939354-3 2 Lockwasher109 940585-86 1 Shoulder Screw, 3/4" x 3"109A 941442-6 1 Nut-Shoulder Screw, 5/8"


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9. TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY


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-- 24900 1 Hydratorc & Super Powairmatic Transmission Assy(Ref. 164-224)

164 24907 1 Transmission Case

164A 16980 1 Gear Box Cover Gasket165 939097-24 5 Transmission Case Capscrew, 1/2" x 1"165A 939352-4 5 Lockwasher, 1/2"166 24908 1 Transmission Case Cover167 24913 1 Transmission Case Cover Gasket168 943631-34 1 Transmission Case Cover Dowel Pin169 941286-27 6 Transmission Case Cover Capscrew, 3/8" x 112"170 940212-6 1 Transmission Case Bushing (Standard), 3/4" x 1/8"170A 940308-1 2 Grease Fitting Alemite171 15504 1 Gear Box Cover Bearing Plate172 16978 1 Gear Box Cover Bearing Gasket173 941286-47 3 Gear Box Cover Bearing Plate Capscrew

174 940257-4 1 Gear Case Oil Plug-- 25940 1 Bevel Pinion Cage Assembly (Ref. 175-184)175 24909 1 Bevel Pinion176 979136-8 1 Bevel Pinion Inboard Bearing177 24920 1 Bearing Spacer178 979454-2 1 Bevel Pinion Outboard Bearing179 940407-7 1 Lockwasher180 940396-7 1 Bevel Pinion Locknut181 24919 1 Bevel Pinion Bearing Cage182 941156-244 1 Bevel Pinion Bearing Cage Snap Ring183 941286-756 4 Bearing Cage Capscrew, 5/16" x 1 1/4"184 24922 1 Bearing Case Shim Set

-- 25972 1 Bevel Gear Shaft Assembly (Ref. 185-191)185 27372 1 Bevel Gear Shaft189 24910 1 Bevel Gear190 940895-606 2 Bevel Gear Key191 941142-78 1 Bevel Gear Shaft Upper Bearing Snap Ring-- 27371-1 1 Counter Shaft Assembly (Ref. 192-198)192 27371 1 Counter Shaft194 940017-816 1 Drive Pinion Key196 24915 1 Driven Gear197 941142-175 1 Driven Gear Snap Ring198 941142-78 1 Counter Shaft Upper Bearing Snap Ring-- 24945-1 1 Drive Shaft Assembly (Ref. 199-212)

199 24911 1 Drive Shaft200 940017-816 1 Drive Shaft Key (Short)201 16720 4 Drive Shaft Key (Long)202 942390-52 1 Bevel Gear Shaft Lower Bearing, Outer Race202A 942397-5 1 Bevel Gear Shaft Lowe~ Bearing, Inner Race203 24915 1 Driven Gear204 9541142-175 1 Driven Gear Snap Ring205 940295-215 1 Drive Shaft Oil Seal206 979093-8 1 Drive Shaft Upper Bearing207 941156-281 1 Drive Shaft Oil Seal Retaining Ring


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10. POSITIONER VALVE ASSEMBLY


-- 39636 1 Hydratorc Positioning Valve Assembly (Ref. 226-241)

226 39634 1 Positioning Valve Body227 25025 1 Positioning Valve Cylinder228 25024 1 Positioning Valve Cylinder Cap229 941286-760 6 Positioning Valve Cylinder Cap Capscrew229A 939353-2 6 Washer, 5/16" x 1 3/4"230 25027 1 Positioning Valve Flange231 25028 1 Positioning Valve Piston232 39635 1 Positioning Valve Roller Plunger233 25034 1 Positioning Valve Roller Plunger Washer234 25030 1 Positioning Valve Split Washer235 25031 1 Positioning Valve Roller236 25032 1 Positioning Valve Roller Pin

237 25330 1 Positioning Valve Spring239 942271-26 1 Positioning Valve Large “O” Ring240 942271-15 1 Positioning Valve Small “O” Ring241 939554-61 2 Positioning Valve Set Screw242 939097-33 2 Positioning Valve Capscrew242A 939352-3 2 Washer265 990059-20 1 Hose Assembly268 950259-171 1 Hose Assembly


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11. MOTOR, VALVE & PIPING GROUP WITH POSITIONER


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12. MOTOR, VALVE & PIPING GROUP WITHOUT POSITIONER


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245 970250-6 1 Standard Hydraulic Motor245 971003-6 1 High Torque Hydraulic Motor245A 970499-1247 1 Key

246 939097-33 4 Motor Mounting Capscrew, 3/8" x 1"246A 939370-9 4 Motor Mounting Washer247 24927 1 Motor Gasket247A 31101 4 Motor Bushing248 943972-5 1 Control Valve249 941286-763 3 Control Valve Mounting Bolt249A 939212-3 3 Nut249B 939352-59 3 Lock Washer250 25356 1 Control Valve Lever251 27499 1 Control Valve Support252 939097-23 2 Front Support Mounting Bolt, 3/8" x 1/4"252A 941442-3 2 Flexloc Nut

253 940102-20 1 90° Street Elbow, 3/4" pipe254 940103-18 1 45° Street Elbow, 3/4" pipe255 946301-38 4 90° Male Elbow, 3/4" pipe255A 34900 1 Tube Assembly, Control Valve to Motor256 35054 1 Tube Assembly, Motor to Check Valve256A 35053 1 Tube Assembly, Control Valve to Check Valve257 946281-38 1 Male Adapter, 3/4" pipe to tube257A 946281-28 1 Male Adapter, 1/2" pipe to tube258 940143-8 1 Female Tee, 1/2" pipe259 940225-49 1 Nipple, 1/2" Pipe260 940212-10 1 Reducing Bushing, 3/4" to 1/2"261 943992-7 1 Check Valve, 3/4" pipe

262 940148-12 1 Street Tee, 3/4" pipe263 940102-20 1 90° Street Elbow, 3/4" pipe264 940212-9 1 Reducing Bushing, 3/4" to 3/8" pipe265 950260-195 1 Hose Assembly, Outlet266 946301-6 2 90° Male Elbow (Brass)267 39636 1 Positioning Valve268 950259-171 1 Hose Assembly, Inlet269 945973-4 1 Eye Bolt269A 939212-15 1 Nut269B 939352-29 1 Washer270 940225-131 2 Nipple, 3/4" pipe271 940212-14 2 Bushing, 3/4" x 1" Pipe

272 940225-59 1 Nipple, 3/4" Pipe273 941066-86 1 Dowel Pin274 27500 1 Throttle Lever Guard Assembly275 939097-64 1 Guard Retaining Bolt275A 939212-5 1 Hex Nut275B 939352-4 1 Lock Washer276 34902 1 Tube Assembly, Long, Control Valve to Motor277 946301-24 1 90° Male Elbow, 1/2"pipe to hose278 940081-5 1 90° Female Elbow, 3/4" pipe


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13. REPLACEMENT PARTS – RIGID HANGER & SUSPENSION SPRING ASSEMBLY


-- 34895 1 Hanger Assembly (Ref. 1-13)

1 34896 1 Hanger2 34897 1 Hanger Adapter3 15532 1 Balancing Screw4 16377 1 Suspension Spring Assembly5 939097-506 1 Square Head Bolt6 939168-131 2 Square Head Set Screw7 939097-156 1 Hex Head Bolt8 939502-142 2 Clevis Pin9 939142-8 1 Nut10 939212-7 1 Nut11 939672-28 4 Cotter Pin12 939352-6 1 Lock Washer

13 16355 1 Hanger Pin


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14. REPLACMENT PARTS – CONTROL VALVE


-- 943972-5 1 Control Valve Assembly

1 943981-1001 1 Valve Body2 943981-104 1 Levered valve end cap3 942271-19 2 “O” Ring4 943981-1003 1 Spool-Open Center5 943981-1004 1 Lever Pin6 943981-1005 1 Spool Pin7 943981-1006 1 Lever Pin Retaining Pin8A 943981-1007 1 Cap9 941286-49 8 Capscrew10 941142-56 1 Spool Retaining Ring11 943981-1008 1 Compression Spring (Small)12 943981-1009 1 Compression Spring (Large)

13 943981-1010 1 Stop Spacer14 943981-1011 1 Cup Spacer15 943981-1012 1 Washer


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15. REPLACEMENT PARTS – STANDARD HYDRAULIC MOTOR ASSEMBLY


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-- 970250-6 1 Standard Hydraulic Motor Assembly (Ref. 1-39)-- 970499-5 1 Shaft End Cover (Ref. 1-7,9-19,34-36)1 970499-1005 1 Snap Ring

2 970499-1003 1 Bearing Shield3 970499-1004 1 Bearing Seal4 970499-1002 1 Shaft Ball Bearing5 970499-1247 1 Shaft Key6 970499-1034 1 Shaft7 970499-1009 1 Bearing Spacer9 970499-1001 1 Shaft End Cover10 970499-1016 2 Drive Screw11 970499-1015 1 Nameplate12 940308-1 1 Grease Fitting13 970499-1007 1 Back-up Ring14 970499-1006 1 Bronze Insert

15 970499-1008 1 “O” Ring16 970499-1017 1 “O” Ring Gasket17 970499-1007 2 Back-up Ring18 970499-1008 1 “O” Ring19 970499-1021 4 Roller Bearing34 970499-1013 2 Check Ball Retainer35 970499-1012 2 Check Ball36 970499-1014 2 Check Valve Seat8 9704991011 1 Motor Shaft Seal-- 970499-272 1 Gear Housing (Ref. 20-39))20 970499-1127 12 Pocket Seals22 970499-1026 2 Thrust Plate

23 970499-1034 1 Driven Gear24 970499-1029 2 Ring Gasket26 970499-1225 1 Gear Housing38 970499-1220 1 Port End Cover39 970499-1061 4 Capscrews


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16. REPLACEMENT PARTS – HIGH TORQUE HYDRAULIC MOTOR ASSEMBLY


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-- 971003-6 1 High Torque Motor Assembly (Ref. 1-22)-- 971499-33 1 Shaft End Cover1 971499-1012 1 Seal Retainer Ring

2 971499-1011 1 High Pressure Motor Shaft Seal3 971499-1004 1 “O” Ring4 Bearing Cup (Comes With Bearing)5 971499-1006 1 Tapered Bearing6 970499-1247 1 Drive Shaft Key7 971499-1058 1 Drive Shaft8 971499-1056 1 Shaft End Cover9 971499-1010 2 Check Assembly10 971499-1036 1 Bronze Shaft Bushing11 971499-1037 1 Conical Spring12 971499-1038 4 Roller Bearings13 971499-1039 12 Pocket Seal

14 971499-1040 2 Thrust Plate15 971499-1041 2 “O” Ring16 971499-1055 1 Gear Housing18 971499-1144 1 Driven Gear Set22 971499-1070 1 Port End Cover


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17. ASSEMBLY DIMENSIONS – MODEL RS WITH POSITIONER & ROLL-OVER HANGER


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18. ASSEMBLY DIMENSIONS, MODEL RS WITHOUT POSITIONER & WITH RIGID HANGER


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19. SPARE PARTS FOR ONE YEAR OPERATION OF MODEL RS WITH POSITIONER


39636 1 Positioner Valve Assembly30862 2 Brake Band15502 2 Gear Shift Finger15507 1 Low Speed Driven Gear Thrust Washer23056 2 Gear Shift Shaft Bushing15528 4 Brake Band Pin17920 2 Jaw and Bushing Pin16448 1 Guard Spring24927 1 Motor Gasket16979 2 Frame Bottom Gear Box Bearing Plate Gasket16980 1 Gear Box Cover Gasket970250-6 1 Hydraulic Motor

943972-5 1 Control Valve947915-11 1 Roller Chain979102-5304 1 Double Row Bearing949054-304 1 Bearing939995-812 1 Key 3/16" Square x 2"941142-78 2 Snap Ring942271-11 2 “O” Ring939672-17 2 Cotter Pin939672-11 1 Cotter Pin, 3/32" x 1"939643-13 7 Shakeproof Lock Washer, 7/8"939370-9 1 Plain Washer, 3/8"944401-17 3 Elastic Stop Nut, 3/4" - 10"

15500 2 Idler Sprocker Spacer15537 1 Low Speed Driven Gear Bushing940308-1 6 Grease Fitting, 1/8"16978 1 Gear Box Cover Bearing Plate Gasket979103-4 7 Bearing940295-214 1 Seal17916 3 Outer Ring Large Roller17917 2 Outer Ring Small Roller17918 5 Spacer17919 5 Roller Pin942685-118 14 Roller Assembly Snap Ring941156-281 6 Snap Ring

941156-231 2 Snap Ring942394-42 4 Inner Race Idler Sprocket Bearing942384-36 4 Outer Race Idler Sprocket Bearing941238-75 4 Flat Head Socket Capscrew, 1/2" x 1/4"941238-108 2 Flat Head Socket Capscrew, 1/2" x 2"944423-8 2 Flexloc Nut, 1/2"


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DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY

MANUFACTURER’S NAME AND ADDRESS

Cavins Oil Well Tools2853 Cherry Avenue

Signal Hill, CA 90755 USA

COMPANY AUTHORIZED TO COMPILE THE TECHNICAL FILE

ACC-services contact

105 route des pommiers

Centre Ubidoca

74370 St Martin Bellevue

France

CAVINS DECLARES UNDER OUR SOLE RESPONSIBILITY THAT THE PRODUCT DESCRIBED

AS:

Equipment Name: Power Tubing Tong

Generic Equipment Description: Power Tubing Tong

Model/Type: RS

Serial Numbers: 266680-01; 266680-02; 266680-03

COMPLIES WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE FOLLOWING EUROPEAN DIRECTIVES:

Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC;

ATEX & Non-electrical Equipment Directive 94/9/EC: II 2G IIB c 200°C (T3)

MAIN STANDARDS CONSIDERED:

EN 12100-1:2003, EN 12100-2:2003

EN 1127-1, EN 13463-1, EN 13463-5

DATE: April 27, 2010 AT: Signal Hill, CA USA

NAME OF AUTHORIZED COMPANY REPRESENTATIVE: George Hawk

SIGNATURE: George Hawk

RS Power Tubing Tong Manual

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