rover 214

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Rover 214 & 414Service and Repair ManualMark Coombs and Christopher Rogers

Models coveredRover 214 and 414 models fitted with eight or sixteen-valve 1397 cc ‘K-series’ engineCovers major mechanical features of Cabriolet

Does not cover Diesel engine models

(1689-288-9AA3)

© Haynes Publishing 1997

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmittedin any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, includingphotocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 458 7

British Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes PublishingSparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska ABFyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige


LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER 214 & 414Introduction Page 0•4

Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside RepairsIntroduction Page 0•6

If your car won’t start Page 0•6

Jump starting Page 0•7

Wheel changing Page 0•8

Identifying leaks Page 0•9

Towing Page 0•9

Weekly ChecksIntroduction Page 0•10

Underbonnet check points Page 0•10

Engine oil level Page 0•11

Coolant level Page 0•11

Brake fluid level Page 0•12

Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12

Power steering fluid level Page 0•13

Wiper blades Page 0•13

Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14

Electrical systems Page 0•15

Battery Page 0•15

Lubricants, Fluids, Capacities and Tyre Pressures Page 0•16

MAINTENANCERoutine Maintenance and Servicing Page 1•1

Maintenance schedule Page 1•3

Maintenance procedures Page 1•6

Contents


REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated SystemsEngine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures Page 2B•1

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines Page 4A•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injected engines Page 4B•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injected engines Page 4C•1

Emission control systems Page 4D•1

Ignition system - carburettor engines Page 5A•1

Ignition system - fuel injected engines Page 5B•1

Starting and charging systems Page 5C•1

TransmissionClutch Page 6•1

Gearbox Page 7•1

Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and SuspensionBraking system Page 9•1

Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body EquipmentBodywork and fittings Page 11•1

Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•20

REFERENCEDimensions and Weights Page REF•1

Conversion Factors Page REF•2

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF•3

General Repair Procedures Page REF•4

Jacking and Vehicle Support Page REF•5

Radio/cassette Anti-theft System - precaution Page REF•5

Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6

MOT Test Checks Page REF•8

Fault Finding Page REF•12

Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•19

Index Page REF•24

Contents


0•4

The Rover 214 Hatchback and 414 Saloonmodels covered in this Manual are a much-developed version of the original 213 and 216models first launched in 1984. The 214 five-doormodel was the first to be introduced in October1989 and was closely followed by the 414 model introduced in March 1990. The 214model range was further updated in September1990 when a three-door variant was introduced.

All models are fitted with the new 1.4 litre‘K’ series engine. The 214 S model (firstintroduced in September 1990) has an eight-valve single overhead camshaft version of theengine which is fed by an SU KIF carburettor.

All other 214 and 414 models are equippedwith a sixteen-valve double overheadcamshaft version of the engine which iscontrolled by a Rover/Motorola ModularEngine Management System (MEMS) witheither single-point fuel injection (SPi) or multi-point fuel injection (MPi). All versions of theengine are able to accept a full range ofemission control systems, up to and includinga three-way regulated catalytic converter.

The five-speed transmission, which is ajoint development by Rover and Peugeotengineers, is of Peugeot design and producedby Rover. The transmission is fitted to the left-

hand end of the engine. The completeengine/transmission unit is mountedtransversely across the front of the car anddrives the front wheels through unequal-length driveshafts.

The front suspension incorporatesMacPherson struts and the rear is of thedouble wishbone type.

Braking is by discs at the front and drumsat the rear, with a dual-circuit hydraulicsystem. On all models in the range, an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) was offered as anoptional extra. If ABS is fitted, then braking isby discs both at the front and rear.

Rover 114GTa Rover Metro 1.1S

Introduction

Acknowledgements

The aim of this manual is to help you getthe best value from your vehicle. It can do soin several ways. It can help you decide whatwork must be done (even should you chooseto get it done by a garage), provideinformation on routine maintenance andservicing, and give a logical course of action

and diagnosis when random faults occur.However, it is hoped that you will use themanual by tackling the work yourself. Onsimpler jobs it may even be quicker thanbooking the car into a garage and going theretwice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps mostimportant, a lot of money can be saved by

avoiding the costs a garage must charge tocover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptionsto show the function of the various componentsso that their layout can be understood. Thenthe tasks are described and photographed in aclear step-by-step sequence.

Your Rover 214 & 414 Manual

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plugwho supplied the illustrations showing sparkplug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils whoprovided lubrication data. Thanks are alsodue to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, whosupplied some of the workshop tools, and to

all those people at Sparkford who helped inthe production of this Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy ofinformation given in this manual, butvehicle manufacturers make alterationsand design changes during the production

run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can beaccepted by the authors or publishers forloss, damage or injury caused by anyerrors in, or omissions from theinformation given.


0•5Safety First!Working on your car can be dangerous.

This page shows just some of the potentialrisks and hazards, with the aim of creating asafety-conscious attitude.

General hazardsScalding• Don’t remove the radiator or expansiontank cap while the engine is hot.• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid orpower steering fluid may also be dangerouslyhot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning• Beware of burns from the exhaust systemand from any part of the engine. Brake discsand drums can also be extremely hotimmediately after use.

Crushing• When working under or neara raised vehicle,alwayssupplement thejack with axlestands, or usedrive-onramps.Neverventureunder a car whichis only supported by a jack.• Take care if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.Initial loosening and final tightening shouldbe done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour isexplosive. • Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights(including pilot lights) anywhere near avehicle being worked on. Also beware ofcreating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’twork on the fuel system with the vehicle overan inspection pit.• Another cause of fire is an electricaloverload or short-circuit. Take care whenrepairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a typesuitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock • Ignition HTvoltage can bedangerous,especially topeople with heartproblems or apacemaker. Don’twork on or near theignition system withthe engine running orthe ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Makesure that any mains-operated equipment iscorrectly earthed. Mains power points shouldbe protected by a residual current device(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes arepoisonous; they oftencontain carbonmonoxide, which israpidly fatal if inhaled.Never run theengine in aconfined spacesuch as a garagewith the doors shut.• Fuel vapour is alsopoisonous, as are the vapours from somecleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances• Avoid skin contact with battery acid andwith any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especiallyantifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Dieselfuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such asubstance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,seek medical advice.• Prolonged contact with used engine oil cancause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use abarrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags inyour pocket.• Air conditioning refrigerant forms apoisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame(including a cigarette). It can also cause skinburns on contact.

Asbestos• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaledor swallowed. Asbestos may be found ingaskets and in brake and clutch linings.When dealing with such components it issafest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazardsHydrofluoric acid• This extremely corrosive acid is formedwhen certain types of synthetic rubber, foundin some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, areexposed to temperatures above 4000C. Therubber changes into a charred or stickysubstance containing the acid. Once formed,the acid remains dangerous for years. If itgets onto the skin, it may be necessary toamputate the limb concerned.• When dealing with a vehicle which hassuffered a fire, or with components salvagedfrom such a vehicle, wear protective glovesand discard them after use.

The battery• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, whichattacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take carewhen topping-up or carrying the battery.• The hydrogen gas given off by the batteryis highly explosive. Never cause a spark orallow a naked light nearby. Be careful whenconnecting and disconnecting batterychargers or jump leads.

Air bags• Air bags can cause injury if they go offaccidentally. Take care when removing thesteering wheel and/or facia. Special storageinstructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at veryhigh pressure. Take care when working onthe fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,face or any other part of the bodyto injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatalresults.

Remember...DO• Do use eye protection when using powertools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream toprotect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodicallythat all is well when working alone on thevehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair wellout of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, beforeworking on the vehicle – especially theelectrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jackingequipment has a safe working load ratingadequate for the job.

A few tipsDON’T• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy componentwhich may be beyond your capability – getassistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or takeunverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slipand cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying aroundwhere someone can trip over them. Mopup oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in ornear a vehicle being worked on.


0•6 Roadside repairsThe following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will findmore detailed fault finding information at the back of themanual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motordoesn’t turnM If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, thebattery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting(see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the startermotor turns as normalM Is there fuel in the tank?M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obviousdampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosolproduct (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel systemelectrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connectorand HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normallysuffer from damp.)

Check that the distributor HT leadconnections are clean and secureA Check that the spark plug HT lead

connections are clean and secure -cover removed

B Check that the ignition coil HT and LTlead connections are clean and secureC

Check the security and condition of thebattery connectionsD

The ECU wiring plugs may causeproblems if dirty or not properlyconnected

ECheck that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition off) and spray them with a water-dispersing spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

0•7


Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using abooster battery, observe the followingprecautions:

4 Before connecting the boosterbattery, make sure that the ignitionis switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment(lights, heater, wipers, etc) isswitched off.

4 Take note of any special precautionsprinted on the battery case.

4 Make sure that the booster batteryis the same voltage as thedischarged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-startedfrom the battery in another vehicle,the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCHeach other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is inneutral (or PARK, in the case ofautomatic transmission).

Jump starting will get youout of trouble, but you mustcorrect whatever made thebattery go flat in the first

place. There are three possibilities:

1) The battery has been drained byrepeated attempts to start, or byleaving the lights on.

2) The charging system is not workingproperly (alternator drivebelt slack orbroken, alternator wiring fault oralternator itself faulty).

3) The battery itself is at fault (electrolytelow, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump leadto the positive (+) terminal of the flatbattery

Connect the other end of the red leadto the positive (+) terminal of thebooster battery

Connect one end of the black jump leadto the negative (-) terminal of thebooster battery

Connect the other end of the blackjump lead to a bolt or bracket on theengine block, well away from thebattery, on the vehicle to be started

1 2 3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will notcome into contact with the fan,drivebelts or other moving parts of theengine

5

Start the engine using the boosterbattery, then with the engine running atidle speed, disconnect the jump leadsin the reverse order of connection

6

Jump starting


0•8 Roadside repairs

Location of spare wheel and tools in boot

Wheel changingSome of the details shown here will varyaccording to model. For instance, the locationof the spare wheel and jack is not the sameon all cars. However, the basic principlesapply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit byother traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary ofpassing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted bythe job in hand.

Finally...M Remove the wheel chocks.

M Stow the jack and tools in the correctlocations in the car.

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel justfitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have apressure gauge with you, drive slowly tothe nearest garage and inflate the tyre tothe right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repairedas soon as possible.

Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen thewheelnuts

Locate the jack head in the correctjacking point

Raise the jack until the wheel is clear ofthe ground

Remove the trim to expose the wheelnutsUnscrew the spare wheel retaining cap1 2 3

4 5

Remove the wheelnuts and lift off thewheel7 Fit the replacement wheel and tighten the

nuts8

6

PreparationM When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle toalert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first orreverse gear (or Park on models withautomatic transmission).

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite theone being removed – a couple of largestones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece ofwood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel


0•9Roadside repairs

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, orobvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needsinvestigating. It can sometimes be difficult todecide where the leak is coming from,especially if the engine bay is very dirtyalready. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blownrearwards by the passage of air under the car,giving a false impression of where theproblem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oilsand fluids are poisonous. Washthem off skin, and change out ofcontaminated clothing, withoutdelay.

Identifying leaksThe smell of a fluid leakingfrom the car may provide aclue to what’s leaking. Somefluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the carcarefully and to park it over some cleanpaper overnight as an aid to locating thesource of the leak.Remember that some leaks may onlyoccur while the engine is running.

When all else fails, you may find yourselfhaving to get a tow home – or of course youmay be helping somebody else. Long-distancerecovery should only be done by a garage orbreakdown service. For shorter distances, DIYtowing using another car is easy enough, butobserve the following points:M Use a proper tow-rope – they are notexpensive. The vehicle being towed mustdisplay an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that thedirection indicator and brake lights will work.M Only attach the tow-rope to the towingeyes provided.M Before being towed, release the handbrakeand select neutral on the transmission.M Note that greater-than-usual pedalpressure will be required to operate thebrakes, since the vacuum servo unit is onlyoperational with the engine running.M On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed mustkeep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoidsnatching.M Make sure that both drivers know the routebefore setting off.M Only drive at moderate speeds and keepthe distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowingdown at junctions.M On models with automatic transmission,special precautions apply. If in doubt, do nottow, or transmission damage may result.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystallinedeposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at theinboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almostcertainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipeconnectors on the steering rack.


0•10

There are some very simple checks whichneed only take a few minutes to carry out, butwhich could save you a lot on inconvenienceand expense.These “Weekly Checks” require no great skillor special tools, and the small amount of timethey take to perform could well prove to bevery well spent, for example:

mm Keeping an eye on tyre condition andpressures, will not only help to stop themwearing out prematurely but could also saveyour life.mm Many breakdowns are caused by electricalproblems. Battery-related faults are particularlycommon and a quick check on a regular basiswill often prevent the majority of these.

mm If your car develops a brake fluid leak, thefirst time you might know about it is whenyour brakes don’t work properly. Checkingthe level regularly will give advance warning ofthis kind of problem.mm If the oil or coolant levels run low, the costof repairing any engine damage will be fargreater than fixing the leak.

Underbonnet Check Points

K16 MPi engine with plastic inlet manifold

Introduction

Weekly checks

A Engine oil level dipstick

B Engine oil filler cap

C Coolant expansion tank

D Brake fluid reservoir

E Power steering fluid reservoir

F Screen washer fluid reservoir

G Battery


0•11Weekly checksEngine oil levelBefore you start4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,or at least 5 minutes after the engine has beenswitched off.

The correct oilModern engines place great demands on theiroil. It is very important that the correct oil foryour car is used (see “Lubricants and Fluids”on page 0•16).

Car Carel If you have to add oil frequently, you shouldcheck whether you have any oil leaks. Placesome clean paper under the car overnight,and check for stains in the morning. If thereare no leaks, then engine may be burning oil(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between theupper and lower dipstick marks. If the level istoo low, severe engine damage may occur. Oilseal failure may result if the engine is overfilledby adding too much oil.

Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe allthe oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean

dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, thenwithdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of thedipstick, which should be between the

upper HI mark and the lower LO mark.Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the levelfrom the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotatethe cap through a quarter-turn anti-

clockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. Afunnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oilslowly, checking the level on the dipstickoften. Do not overfill.

The dipstick is located at the rear right-handend of the engine (see “Underbonnet Check

Points” on page 0•10 for exact location).Withdraw the dipstick.

1 2

3 4

If the oil is checkedimmediately after driving thevehicle, some of the oil willremain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccuratereading on the dipstick.

Coolant level

Add a mixture of water and antifreezethrough the expansion tank filler neck,

until the coolant is up to the upper level. Refitthe cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will gountil it is secure.

If topping-up, wait until the engine iscold, then cover the filler cap with a layer

of rag and start unscrewing the cap. Wait untilany hissing ceases, indicating that allpressure is released, then slowly unscrew thecap until it can be removed. At all times keepwell away from the filler opening.

When the engine is cold, the coolant levelshould be between the expansion tank

ridge/seam and the level indicated aboveCOOLANT LEVEL on the side of theexpansion tank, which is located in the frontright-hand corner of the engine compartment.

1 2 3

Warning: Do not attempt toremove the expansion tankpressure cap when the engine ishot, as there is a very great risk

of scalding. Do not leave open containersof coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Carel With a sealed-type cooling system, addingcoolant should not be necessary on a regularbasis. If frequent topping-up is required, it islikely there is a leak. Check the radiator, allhoses and joint faces for signs of staining orwetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in thecooling system all year round, not just duringthe winter months. Don’t top up with wateralone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.


Warning: Brake fluid can harmyour eyes and damage paintedsurfaces, so use extremecaution when handling and

pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as itabsorbs moisture from the air, which cancause a dangerous loss of brakingeffectiveness.

Before you start4 Make sure that the car is on level ground.4 Cleanliness is of great importance whendealing with the braking system, so take care to clean around the reservoir cap before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluidfrom a container which has stood for at least24 hours (to allow air bubbles to separate out).

Safety firstl If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, this is an indication of a fluid leaksomewhere in the system, which should beinvestigated immediately.l If a leak is suspected, the car should not bedriven until the braking system has beenchecked. Never take any risks where brakesare concerned.

Brake fluid level

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it onsurrounding paintwork. Use only the

specified fluid; mixing different types cancause damage to the system. After filling tothe correct level, refit the cap securely, toprevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter.Ensure that the fluid level switch plunger isfree to move. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Before adding fluid, it’s a good idea toinspect the reservoir. The system should

be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in thefluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

The brake master cylinder and fluidreservoir is mounted on the vacuum

servo unit in the engine compartment. TheMAX and MIN level marks are indicated on theside of the reservoir and the fluid level shouldbe maintained between these marks at alltimes.

1 If topping-up is necessary, unplug theelectrical connector and wipe the area

around the filler cap with a clean rag beforeremoving the cap. When adding fluid, pour itcarefully into the reservoir to avoid spilling iton surrounding painted surfaces. Be sure touse only the specified brake hydraulic fluidsince mixing different types of fluid can causedamage to the system.

2

3 4

Screen washer fluid level

The reservoir for the windscreen and rearwindow (where fitted) washer systems is

located on the left-hand side of the enginecompartment.

When topping-up the reservoir(s) ascreenwash additive should be added in

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Car carel Screenwash additives not only keep thewindscreen clean during bad weather, theyalso prevent the washer system freezing incold weather - which is when you are likely toneed it most. Don’t top up using plain water,as the screenwash will become diluted andwill freeze in cold weather.l Check the operation of the windscreen andrear window washers. Adjust the nozzlesusing a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to apoint slightly above the centre of the sweptarea.

Warning: On no account useengine coolant antifreeze in thescreen washer system - this willdamage the paintwork.

1 2

0•12 Weekly checks


0•13Weekly checks

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glassuntil it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, press the locking tab

with a finger nail and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end. Onrefitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If they are cracked orshow any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is

smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper bladesshould be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

2

After filling the reservoir to the properlevel, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely to avoid leaks and the entry offoreign matter into the reservoir.

3If topping-up is necessary, first wipe thearea around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. When adding fluid,pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoidspillage. Be sure to use only the specifiedfluid.

2The power steering fluid reservoir islocated on the right-hand side of the

engine compartment, just behind the coolingsystem expansion tank. MAX and MIN levelmarks are indicated on the side of thereservoir and the fluid level should bemaintained between these marks at all times.

1

1

Wiper blades

Power steering fluid levelBefore you start4 Make sure that the car is on level ground.4 Set the front roadwheels in the straight-ahead position.4 The engine should be stopped.4 Do not operate the steering once theengine is stopped.

Safety firstl If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, there is a fluid leak somewhere in thesystem which should be investigatedimmediately.l If a leak is suspected, the car should not bedriven until the power steering system hasbeen checked.


0•14 Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in goodcondition, and at the correct pressure - havinga tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harshbraking and acceleration, or fast cornering,will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As ageneral rule, the front tyres wear out fasterthan the rears. Interchanging the tyres fromfront to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result inmore even wear. However, if this iscompletely effective, you may have theexpense of replacing all four tyres at once!Remove any nails or stones embedded in thetread before they penetrate the tyre to causedeflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail sothat its point of penetration is marked. Thenimmediately change the wheel, and have thetyre repaired by a tyre dealer.Regularly check the tyres for damage in theform of cuts or bulges, especially in thesidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,and clean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage.Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels mayalso become dented or buckled. A new wheelis very often the only way to overcome severedamage.

New tyres should be balanced when they arefitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balanceweights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, aswill the steering and suspension components.Wheel imbalance is normally signified byvibration, particularly at a certain speed(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration isfelt only through the steering, then it is likelythat just the front wheels need balancing. If,however, the vibration is felt through thewhole car, the rear wheels could be out ofbalance. Wheel balancing should be carriedout by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure CheckCheck the tyre pressures regularly withthe tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre

pressures immediately after the vehicle hasbeen used, or an inaccurate setting will result.Tyre pressures are shown on page 0•16

Tread Depth - manual checkAlternatively tread wear can bemonitored with a simple, inexpensive

device known as a tread depth indicatorgauge.

Tread Depth - visual checkThe original tyres have tread wear safetybands (B), which will appear when the

tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.The band positions are indicated by atriangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 2 3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)Under-inflation will cause overheating of thetyre, because the tyre will flex too much, andthe tread will not sit correctly on the roadsurface. This will cause a loss of grip andexcessive wear, not to mention the danger ofsudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.Check and adjust pressuresIncorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)Repair or renew suspension partsHard corneringReduce speed!

Centre Wear

OverinflationOver-inflation will cause rapid wear of thecentre part of the tyre tread, coupled withreduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger ofshock damage occurring in the tyre casing.Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’styres to the higher pressures specified formaximum load or sustained high speed, don’tforget to reduce the pressures to normalafterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers andgarages can check and adjust the wheelalignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.Incorrect camber or castorRepair or renew suspension partsMalfunctioning suspensionRepair or renew suspension partsUnbalanced wheelBalance tyresIncorrect toe settingAdjust front wheel alignmentNote: The feathered edge of the tread whichtypifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

4


0•15Weekly checksElectrical system

If more than one indicator light orheadlight has failed, it is likely that either

a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in thecircuit (see Chapter 12).

If a single indicator light, brake light orheadlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Referto Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lightshave failed, it is possible that the brake lightswitch operated by the brake pedal is faulty.Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

1

If you need to check yourbrake lights and indicatorsunaided, back up to a wall orgarage door and operate the

lights. The reflected light should show ifthey are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Referto the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 fordetails if any of the circuits are found to beinoperative, and replace the fuse if necessary.Most fuses are located behind the cover in theright-hand lower facia panel. Other fuses arelocated in the fusebox on the left-hand side ofthe engine compartment. To replace a blownfuse, pull it from position, using the plastictool provided. Fit a new fuse of the samerating. If a second fuse blows, it is importantthat you find the reason - do not use a fusewith a higher rating.4 Visually check all accessible wiringconnectors, harnesses and retaining clips forsecurity, and for signs of chafing or damage.

2

BatteryCaution: Before carrying out any work onthe vehicle battery, read the precautionsgiven in “Safety first” at the start of thismanual.4 Make sure that the battery tray is in goodcondition, and that the clamp is tight.Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and thebattery itself can be removed with a solutionof water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse allcleaned areas with water. Any metal partsdamaged by corrosion should be coveredwith a zinc-based primer, then painted.4 Periodically (approximately every threemonths), check the charge condition of thebattery as described in Chapter 5A.4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jumpstart your vehicle, see “Jump starting”.

The battery is located on the left-handside of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspectedperiodically for damage such as a crackedcase or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps toensure good electrical connections. You

should not be able to move them. Also checkeach cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) isevident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wirebrush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell auseful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1 2

3 ... as well as the battery cable clamps4Battery corrosion can be kept to aminimum by applying a layer ofpetroleum jelly to the clamps andterminals after they are reconnected.


0•16 Lubricants, fluids, capacities and tyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids

Capacities

Tyre Pressures (tyres cold)

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to spec.API-SG or SG/CD, CCMC G4, or RES.22.OL.G4(Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus, Hypergrade, or10W/40 Motor Oil)

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antifreeze to spec. BS 6580 and BS 5117. Ethylene-glycol based with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors,containing no methanol. Mixture 50% by volume(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Special gearbox oil. Refer to your Rover dealer(Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80 may be used for topping-up only)

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to spec. SAE J 1703 or DOT 4(Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)

Power steering system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to Dexron II Dspecification (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

General greasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multi-purpose lithium-based grease to NLGI consistencyNo. 2 (Duckhams LB10)

Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres - including filterCooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litresGearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litresPower steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litresFuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 litresWasher system reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

Front Rear155 SR 13 tyresNormal driving conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)Loads in excess of four persons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.3 bar (34 psi)Speeds in excess of 100 mph - all loads . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)175/65 TR 14 tyresAll loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)185/60 HR 14 tyresAll loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar (36 psi) 2.5 bar (36 psi)Note: Pressures apply only to original equipment tyres and may vary if any other make or type is fitted. Check withthe tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary

2A


Chapter 2 Part AEngine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Engine/gearbox mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Timing belt - removal, inspection, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 8Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . 4Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2A•1

Contents

SpecificationsGeneralType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder in-line, four-stroke, liquid-cooledDesignation:

1.4 8-valve sohc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K81.4 16-valve dohc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K16

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.00 mmStroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.00 mmCapacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1396 ccFiring order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)Compression ratio:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75 : 1K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.50 : 1

Minimum compression pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3 barMaximum compression pressure difference between cylinders . . . . . . 1.4 barMaximum power (EEC):

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 ps (56 kW) @ 5700 rpmK8 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 ps (55 kW) @ 5500 rpmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 ps (70 kW) @ 6250 rpmK16 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 ps (66 kW) @ 6250 rpm

Maximum torque (EEC):K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Nm (86 lbf ft) @ 3500 rpmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Nm (91 lbf ft) @ 4000 rpmK16 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Nm (89 lbf ft) @ 4000 rpm

Cylinder block/crankcaseNote: Service liners are Grade BMaterial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aluminium alloyCylinder liner bore diameter - 60 mm from top of bore:

Standard - grade A (Red) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.975 to 74.985 mmStandard - grade B (Blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.986 to 74.995 mmService limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.045 mm

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

CrankshaftNumber of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Main bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.979 to 48.000 mmMain bearing journal size grades:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.993 to 48.000 mmGrade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.986 to 47.993 mmGrade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.979 to 47.986 mm

Crankpin journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.986 to 43.007 mmCrankpin journal size grades:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.000 to 43.007 mmGrade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.993 to 43.000 mmGrade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.986 to 42.993 mm

Main bearing and crankpin journal maximum ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 mmMain bearing and big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.021 to 0.049 mmCrankshaft endfloat:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.30 mmService limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm

Thrustwasher thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.61 to 2.65 mm

Gudgeon pinsDiameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 mmFit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interference

Pistons and piston ringsNote: Service pistons are Grade BPiston diameter: Grade A Grade B

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.940 to 74.955 mm 74.956 to 74.970 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.945 to 74.960 mm 74.960 to 74.975 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance:K8 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.045 mmK16 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.040 mmService limit - all . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.080 mm

Piston ring end gaps (fitted 20 mm from top of bore):Top compression ring:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Second compression ring - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mmOil control ring:

K8 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 1.00 mmK16:

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.50 mmservice limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 mm

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:Top compression ring:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.09 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.07 mm

Second compression ring:K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.08 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.07 mm

Oil control ring - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.06 mm

Cylinder headMaterial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aluminium alloyHeight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118.95 to 119.05 mmReface limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mmMaximum acceptable gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mmValve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mmSeat cutter correction angle:

Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60°

Valve stem installed height:K8:

new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.95 to 40.81 mmservice limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.06 mm

K16:new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.93 to 39.84 mmservice limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.10 mm

2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures


ValvesSeat angle:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° 30’

Head diameter:Inlet:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.0 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.0 mm

Exhaust:K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.0 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.0 mm

Stem outside diameter:Inlet:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.967 to 6.975 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.952 to 5.967 mm

Exhaust:K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.952 to 6.967 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.947 to 5.962 mm

Guide inside diameter:K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.000 to 7.025 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.000 to 6.025 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance:Inlet:

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.04 mmservice limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Exhaust:standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 to 0.08 mmservice limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.11 mm

Valve timing:K8:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDCInlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47° ABDCExhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53° BBDCExhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7° ATDC

K16:Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° BTDCInlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45° ABDCExhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55° BBDCExhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° ATDC

Valve spring free length:K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.2 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.0 mm

Valve guide fitted height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm

CamshaftDrive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Toothed beltNumber of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Bearing journal running clearance:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.094 mmService limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.150 mm

Camshaft endfloat:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mmService limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.500 mm

Valve lift:K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mmK16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

Hydraulic tappet outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.959 to 32.975 mm

Lubrication systemSystem pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar @ idle speedOil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trochoidal, eccentric-rotor Oil pump clearances:

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.06 mmOuter rotor-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.28 to 0.36 mmRotor lobe clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.13 mm

Pressure relief valve operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 barOil pressure warning lamp lights at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Below 0.3 to 0.5 bar

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

2A


Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftSpark plug (HT) lead clip screws - K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Air intake duct support bracket-to-cylinder head screws . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Spark plug cover screws - K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5Cylinder head cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Camshaft bearing cap/carrier-to-cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Cylinder head bolts:

1st stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 152nd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through 180°3rd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through (a further) 180°

Timing belt cover fasteners:Upper right-hand (outer) cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Lower and upper left-hand (inner) covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Timing belt tensioner backplate clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 19Timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 118Oil pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . 45 33Dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Transmission-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Flywheel cover plate screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Flywheel rear cover plate bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28Big-end bearing cap bolts:

1st stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 152nd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through 45°

Main bearing ladder-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Oil rail-to-main bearing ladder nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31Engine/transmission right-hand mounting:

Bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Mounting-to-bracket nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74Mounting-to-body through-bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Engine/transmission left-hand mounting:Mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Mounting-to-transmission bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Transmission bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Engine/transmission rear mounting:Mounting bracket-to-transmission bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Connecting link-to- transmission bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Connecting link-to-body bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Anti-beaming bracket-to-support bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33



1 General information andprecautions

How to use this ChapterThis Part of the Chapter describes those

repair procedures that can reasonably becarried out on the engine whilst it remains inthe vehicle. If the engine has been removedfrom the vehicle and is being dismantled asdescribed in Part B of this Chapter, anypreliminary dismantling procedures can beignored.

Note that whilst it may be possiblephysically to overhaul items such as thepiston/connecting rod assemblies with theengine in the vehicle, such tasks are notusually carried out as separate operations and usually require the execution of several

additional procedures (not to mention thecleaning of components and of oilways). Forthis reason, all such tasks are classed asmajor overhaul procedures and are describedin Part B of this Chapter.

Engine informationThe engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type,

mounted transversely at the front of thevehicle with the clutch and transmission on itsleft-hand end. The engine is available in twoforms - the K8 engine, which is the eight-valvesingle overhead camshaft engine fitted to thecarburettor-equipped 214 S model, and theK16 engine, which is a sixteen-valve doubleoverhead camshaft engine which is fitted to allfuel-injected models. Apart from the differentcylinder head designs, both engines are ofidentical construction.

Apart from the pressed steel sump, theplastic timing belt covers and the aluminium

alloy cylinder head cover, the engine consistsof three major castings which are the cylinderhead, the cylinder block/crankcase and thecrankshaft main bearing ladder. There is alsoan oil rail underneath the main bearing ladderand the camshaft carrier/bearing caps.

All major castings are of aluminium alloyand are clamped together by ten longthrough-bolts which perform the dual role ofcylinder head bolts and crankshaft mainbearing fasteners. Since these bolts passthrough the cylinder block/crankcase and themain bearing ladder, the oil rail is secured alsoto the main bearing ladder (by two nuts) andthe main bearing ladder is secured also to thecylinder block/crankcase (by ten smaller bolts)so that the cylinder head can be removedwithout disturbing the rest of the engine. Thepassages provided for the bolts in the majorcastings are used as breather passages or asreturns for the oil to the sump.

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.Thrustwashers are fitted to the centre mainbearing (upper half) to control crankshaftendfloat.

The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at their big-ends. Thepistons are attached to the connecting rodsby gudgeon pins which are an interference fitin the connecting rod small-end eyes. Thealuminium alloy pistons are fitted with threepiston rings, comprising two compressionrings and an oil control ring.

The cylinder bores are formed byreplaceable wet liners which are located fromtheir top ends. Two sealing rings are fitted atthe base of each liner to prevent the escape ofcoolant into the sump.

The inlet and exhaust valves are eachclosed by coil springs and operate in guidespressed into the cylinder head. The valve seatinserts are pressed into the cylinder head andcan be renewed separately if worn.

On the K8 engine, the camshaft is driven bya toothed timing belt and operates the eightvalves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,thus eliminating the need for routine checkingand adjustment of the valve clearances. Thecamshaft rotates in six bearings that are line-bored direct in the cylinder head and the(bolted-on) bearing caps. This means that thebearing caps are not available separately fromthe cylinder head and must not beinterchanged with others from another engine.The distributor is driven from the left-handend of the camshaft and the mechanical fuelpump is operated by an eccentric on thecamshaft.

Apart from the fact that it has twocamshafts, one inlet and one exhaust, eachcontrolling eight valves and both retained by asingle camshaft carrier, the same applies tothe K16 engine. On the K16 engine, thedistributor is driven from the left-hand end ofthe inlet camshaft. The fuel pump iselectrically-operated.

On both engine types, the coolant pump isdriven by the timing belt.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-rotor trochoidal pump mounted on thecrankshaft right-hand end. It draws oilthrough a strainer located in the sump andthen forces it through an externally-mountedfull-flow cartridge-type filter into galleries inthe oil rail and cylinder block/crankcase, fromwhere it is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft(s). The big-endbearings are supplied with oil via internaldrillings in the crankshaft, while the camshaftbearings and the hydraulic tappets receive apressurised supply. The camshaft lobes andvalves are lubricated by splash, as are allother engine components.

Repair operations possible withthe engine in the carThe following work can be carried out with theengine in the vehicle:a) Compression pressure - testing.

b) Cylinder head cover - removal andrefitting.

c) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.d) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.e) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment.f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting.g) Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal.h) Camshaft(s) and hydraulic tappets -

removal, inspection and refitting.i) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.j) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising.k) Sump - removal and refitting.l) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting.m) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.n) Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal.o) Flywheel - removal, inspection and

refitting.

PrecautionsNote that a side-effect of the above

described engine design is that the crankshaftcannot be rotated once the cylinder head andblock through-bolts have been slackened.During any servicing or overhaul work thecrankshaft always must be rotated to thedesired position before the bolts aredisturbed.

2 Engine oil and filter - renewal

1 Details of checking the engine oil levels andrenewing both the oil and filter are containedin “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

3 Compression test -description and interpretation 2

1 When engine performance is down, or ifmisfiring occurs which cannot be attributed tothe ignition or fuel systems, a compressiontest can provide diagnostic clues as to theengine’s condition. If the test is performedregularly it can give warning of trouble beforeany other symptoms become apparent.2 The engine must be fully warmed up tonormal operating temperature, the batterymust be fully charged and the spark plugsmust be removed. The aid of an assistant willbe required.3 Disable the ignition system bydisconnecting the ignition HT coil lead fromthe distributor cap and earthing it on thecylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similarwire to make a good connection.4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1cylinder spark plug hole. The type of testerwhich screws into the plug thread is preferred(see illustration).

5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wideopen and crank the engine on the startermotor. After one or two revolutions, thecompression pressure should build up to amaximum figure and then stabilise. Recordthe highest reading obtained.6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,recording the pressure in each.7 All cylinders should produce very similarpressures. Any difference greater than thatspecified indicates the existence of a fault.Note that the compression should build upquickly in a healthy engine. Low compressionon the first stroke, followed by graduallyincreasing pressure on successive strokes,indicates worn piston rings. A lowcompression reading on the first stroke, whichdoes not build up during successive strokes,indicates leaking valves or a blown headgasket (a cracked head could also be thecause). Deposits on the undersides of the valve heads can also cause lowcompression.8 If the pressure in any cylinder is reduced tothe specified minimum or less, carry out thefollowing test to isolate the cause. Introduce ateaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinderthrough its spark plug hole and repeat thetest.9 If the addition of oil temporarily improvesthe compression pressure, this indicates thatbore or piston wear is responsible for thepressure loss. No improvement suggests thatleaking or burnt valves, or a blown headgasket, may be to blame.10 A low reading from two adjacent cylindersis almost certainly due to the head gaskethaving blown between them and the presenceof coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lowerthan the others and the engine has a slightlyrough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be thecause.12 If the compression reading is unusuallyhigh, the combustion chambers are probablycoated with carbon deposits. If this is thecase, the cylinder head should be removedand decarbonised.13 On completion of the test, refit the sparkplugs and reconnect the ignition system.


3.4 Measuring compression pressure

2A


4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) fornumber one piston - locating 2

General1 The crankshaft pulley, crankshaft andcamshaft sprockets are provided by thefactory with clear marks which align only at90° BTDC. This positions the pistons half-wayup the bores so that there is no risk ofdamage as the engine is reassembled. Thesemarks do not indicate TDC. Use only theignition timing marks, as described in thisSection, to find TDC.2 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest pointin its travel up-and-down the cylinder borethat each piston reaches as the crankshaftrotates. While each piston reaches TDC bothat the top of the compression stroke andagain at the top of the exhaust stroke, for thepurpose of timing the engine, TDC refers tothe piston position (usually No 1) at the top ofits compression stroke.3 While all engine reassembly procedures usethe factory timing marks (90° BTDC), it isuseful for several other servicing proceduresto be able to position the engine at TDC.4 No 1 piston and cylinder is at the right-hand(timing belt) end of the engine. Note that thecrankshaft rotates clockwise when viewedfrom the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC5 Disconnect the battery negative lead andremove all the spark plugs.6 Trace No 1 spark plug (HT) lead from theplug back to the distributor cap and use chalkor similar to mark the distributor body orengine casting nearest to the cap’s No 1terminal. Undo the distributor cap retainingscrews and remove the cap.7 Apply the handbrake and ensure that thetransmission is in neutral, then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel.8 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel togain access to the crankshaft pulley andignition timing marks.9 Using a spanner, or socket and extensionbar, applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt,rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the notchon the crankshaft pulley’s inboard (left-hand)rim is aligned with the TDC mark on the timingbelt lower cover (see Chapter 1 for details ofignition timing marks).10 With the crankshaft in this position, Nos 1and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one of themon the compression stroke. If the distributorrotor arm is pointing at (the previously-marked)No 1 terminal, then No 1 cylinder is correctlypositioned. If the rotor arm is pointing at No 4terminal, rotate the crankshaft one full turn(360°) clockwise until the arm points at the

marked terminal. No 1 cylinder will then be atTDC on the compression stroke.11 Once No 1 cylinder has been positionedat TDC on the compression stroke, TDC forany of the other cylinders can then be locatedby rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at atime and following the firing order.

5 Cylinder head cover -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and metalintake duct.3 Using a suitable pair of pliers, release theretaining clip(s) and disconnect the breatherhose(s) from the cylinder head cover (seeillustrations).

K8 engines4 Undo the bolts securing the HT leadmounting and air intake support brackets tothe cylinder head cover, then remove thebrackets and position the HT leads clear ofthe cover.5 Remove the two uppermost retainingscrews securing the timing belt upper right-hand/outer cover to the cylinder head cover,then slacken the remaining screws and bolts,as necessary, until the timing belt cover canbe prised clear of the cylinder head coverwithout damaging it.6 Working progressively and in the reverse ofthe tightening sequence (see illustration 5.14),

slacken and remove the cylinder head coverretaining bolts.7 Remove the cover, peel off the rubber sealand check it for cuts, other damage ordistortion. Renew the seal if necessary.

K16 engines8 Undo the two spark plug cover retainingscrews and lift off the cover. Disconnect theHT leads from the plugs and withdraw themfrom the cylinder head, along with the clipplate and the grommet which is fitted to theleft-hand end of the cylinder head cover.9 Working progressively and in the reverse ofthe tightening sequence (see illustration 5.22),slacken and remove the cylinder head coverretaining bolts, noting the correct fitted positionof the air intake duct support bracket.10 Carefully lift off the cylinder head cover,taking care not to damage the gasket. Checkthat the gasket sealing path is undamagedand is attached to the gasket all around itsperiphery. If the sealing path is undamaged,then the gasket is re-usable and shouldremain in place on the cover until reassembly,unless its removal is necessary for otherservicing work.

RefittingK8 engines11 On reassembly, carefully clean thecylinder head mating surfaces and the coverseal’s groove and remove all traces of oil.12 Seat the seal in its groove in the cover andrefit the bolts, pushing each through the seal,then apply a smear of silicone-RTV sealant toeach corner of the seal (see illustrations).


5.12b . . . then refit bolts and apply sealantat locations arrowed - K8 engine

5.12a Ensure seal is correctly seated incylinder head cover groove . . .

5.3b Disconnecting breather hoses fromcylinder head cover - K16 engine

5.3a Disconnecting breather hose fromcylinder head cover - K8 engine


13 Refit the cover to the cylinder head,ensuring that the seal remains seated in itsgroove. Fit all bolts, finger-tight.14 Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts inthe sequence shown to the specified torquewrench setting (see illustration).15 Refit the timing belt upper right-hand/outer cover to the cylinder head coverand tighten all the disturbed screws and boltsto the specified torque setting.16 Refit the HT lead mounting clips and aircleaner intake support brackets to thecylinder head, then tighten the retaining boltsto the specified torque. Ensure the HT leadsare correctly routed.17 Connect the breather hose to the cylinderhead cover and secure it in position with theretaining clip.18 Refit the air cleaner housing andreconnect the battery negative lead.

K16 engines19 On reassembly, carefully clean the matingsurfaces, removing all traces of oil. If thegasket has been removed, the oil separatorelements can be cleaned by removing themfrom the cover and washing them in solvent.Use compressed air to blow dry the elementsbefore refitting them to the cover.20 If a new gasket is to be fitted, press it ontothe cover locating dowels so that if it were laidon the camshaft carrier its stamped markingswould be legible. The TOP mark should benearest the inlet manifold and the EXH MANSIDE mark should have its arrows pointing tothe exhaust manifold (see illustrations).21 Lower the cover onto the cylinder head,ensuring that the gasket is not damaged ordisplaced. Install the cover retaining bolts, notforgetting to refit the air intake duct supportbracket to its original position, and tightenthem finger-tight.22 Working in the sequence shown, tightenthe cylinder head cover retaining bolts to thespecified torque setting (see illustration).23 Reconnect the HT leads to the sparkplugs, then locate the clip plate and grommetin the left-hand end of the cylinder headcover. Ensure the HT leads are correctlyrouted then refit the spark plug cover andtighten its retaining screws to the specified

torque. Tighten the air intake support bracketscrews.24 Connect both the breather hoses to thecylinder head cover and secure them inposition with the retaining clips.25 Refit the air cleaner housing andreconnect the battery negative lead.

6 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Apply the handbrake then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Remove the right-hand roadwheel.2 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel.3 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until therelevant timing marks align.4 Remove the power steering pump and/oralternator drivebelt(s) (as applicable).5 To prevent crankshaft rotation while thepulley bolt is unscrewed, select top gear andhave an assistant apply the brakes firmly. Ifthe engine has been removed from the

vehicle, lock the flywheel using thearrangement shown (see illustration 18.2).6 Unscrew the pulley bolt, noting the specialwasher behind it, then remove the pulley fromthe crankshaft.

Refitting7 Align the crankshaft pulley centre notchwith the locating lug on the crankshaft timingbelt sprocket then refit the washer, ensuringthat its flat surface is facing the pulley. Fit theretaining bolt (see illustration).8 Lock the crankshaft by the method used onremoval and tighten the pulley retaining bolt tothe specified torque setting.9 Refit the power steering pump and/oralternator drivebelt(s) (as applicable) andadjust them as described in Chapter 1.10 Refit the undercover panel and roadwheelthen lower the vehicle to the ground.

7 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting 4

Removal

Upper right-hand (outer) cover1 Slacken the bolt situated at the cover’sbottom corner, immediately behind theengine/gearbox unit right-hand mountingbracket.


5.20b . . . stamped markings would appearas shown if gasket were placed on

camshaft carrier

5.20a Fit gasket to cylinder head coverdowels (arrowed) so that . . .

5.14 Cylinder head cover bolt tighteningsequence - K8 engine

6.7 Ensure notch in crankshaft pulleycentre fits over crankshaft timing belt

sprocket locating lug (arrowed)5.22 Cylinder head cover bolt tightening

sequence - K16 engine

2A


2 Unscrew the remaining cover retainingbolts and withdraw the cover, noting therubber seal fitted to the mounting bracketedge. Note that if the cover is not slotted atthe bottom corner screw’s location, the screw

will have to be removed fully. If this is thecase, the cover can be slotted to ease futureremoval and refitting (see illustrations).

Lower cover3 Remove the crankshaft pulley.4 Remove the cover retaining screws,including the one which also secures theupper cover’s bottom front corner. Removethe cover whilst noting the rubber seal fitted toits mounting bracket edge (see illustration).

Upper left-hand (inner) cover5 Remove the timing belt.6 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) and thetiming belt tensioner.7 Unscrew the bolt securing the cover to thecoolant pump.8 On K16 engines, unbolt the engine/gearboxunit right-hand mounting bracket from thecylinder block/crankcase.9 Remove the remaining cover retaining boltsand withdraw the cover (see illustrations).

Refitting

Upper right-hand (outer) cover10 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the seal fits correctlybetween the cover and the mounting bracketand that the cover edges mate correctly withthose of the inner cover and (K8 engines only)cylinder head cover (see illustration).11 Tighten the cover fasteners to thespecified torque setting.

Lower cover12 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the seal fits correctlybetween the cover and the mounting bracketand tighten the cover fasteners to thespecified torque setting.Upper left-hand (inner) cover13 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten all disturbed fasteners totheir specified torque wrench settings.

8 Timing belt - removal,inspection, refitting andadjustment

4

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 To improve access to the timing belt,remove the expansion tank mounting boltsthen free the coolant hose from any relevantretaining clips and position the tank clear ofthe engine. On models equipped with power-assisted steering, undo all the power steeringhose retaining clip bolts then slide the fluidreservoir out of its retaining clip and position it


7.10 Ensure timing belt upper right-hand(outer) cover engages correctly with

cylinder head cover - K8 engine

7.9c Removing timing belt upper left-hand(inner) cover - K16 engine

7.9b Timing belt upper left-hand (inner)cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine

7.9a Timing belt upper left-hand (inner)cover fasteners (arrowed) - K8 engine

7.4 Removing timing belt lower cover7.2b Timing belt upper right-hand (outer)cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine,

raised for clarity

7.2a Timing belt upper right-hand (outer)cover fasteners - K8 engine

1 Slacken screw - cover should be slotted2 Remove fasteners


If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint orsimilar to mark the directionof rotation on the belt.

clear of the timing belt covers. Take great carenot to place any undue strain on hoses andmop up any spilt fluid immediately.3 Remove the timing belt upper right-hand(outer) cover.4 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel5 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel togain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt.6 Using a suitable spanner or socket on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft ina clockwise direction until the long white-painted mark on the crankshaft pulley’soutboard (right-hand) face is aligned with thesingle, separate mark on the timing belt lowercover so that the crankshaft is in the 90°BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details ofthe pulley/cover marks) (see illustration).7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s)align as described in paragraph 15, showingthat Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90° BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contactingthe pistons during dismantling andreassembly. If the camshaft sprocket mark(s)are 180° out, rotate the crankshaft throughone complete turn (360°) to align the marks asdescribed (see illustration).8 On K16 engines, use the tool described inSection 9 to lock up the camshaft sprockets

so that they cannot move under valve springpressure when the timing belt is removed.9 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and timingbelt lower cover.10 Position a trolley jack with a woodenspacer beneath the sump then gently jack itup to take the weight of the engine.11 Slacken and remove the engine/gearboxunit right-hand mounting through-bolt and nutand the mounting-to-bracket nuts. Removethe mounting, along with the two rubberwashers which are fitted on each side of themounting. On K8 engines only, unscrew theretaining bolts securing the bracket to cylinderblock/crankcase and remove it from theengine unit (see illustration).12 Slacken both the timing belt tensionerpulley Allen screw and the tensionerbackplate clamp bolt through half a turn each,then push the pulley assembly downwards toremove all the tension from the timing belt.Hold the tensioner pulley in this position andre-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely(see illustration). 13 Slip the belt off the sprockets (seeillustration). Do not rotate the crankshaft untilthe timing belt has been refitted.

Inspection14 Check the timing belt carefully for anysigns of uneven wear, splitting or oilcontamination and renew it if there is theslightest doubt about its condition. If theengine is undergoing an overhaul and has

covered more than 48 000 miles (80 000 km)since the original belt was fitted, renew thebelt as a matter of course, regardless of itsapparent condition. If signs of oilcontamination are found, trace the source ofthe oil leak and rectify it, then wash down theengine timing belt area and all relatedcomponents to remove all traces of oil.

Refitting15 On reassembly, thoroughly clean thetiming belt sprockets and check that they arealigned as follows. It is most important thatthese marks are aligned exactly as this setsvalve timing. Note that in this position, Nos 1and 4 cylinders are at 90° BTDC so that thereis no risk of the valves contacting the pistonsduring dismantling and reassembly.a) Camshaft sprocket on K8 engine - The EX

line and the mark stamped on thesprocket rim must be at the front (lookingat the sprocket from the right-hand sideof the vehicle) and aligned exactly withthe cylinder head top surface (seeillustration).

b) Camshaft sprockets on K16 engine - BothEXHAUST arrow marks must point to therear (looking at the sprockets from theright-hand side of the vehicle) with the INlines and the sprocket rim marks alignedexactly with the line on the timing beltupper left-hand/inner cover (representingthe cylinder head top surface). Seeillustration 8.7.


8.11 Removing engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket - K8 engine

8.7 Camshaft sprocket marks (A) alignedwith timing belt upper left-hand (inner)

cover mark (B) - K16 engine

8.6 Crankshaft pulley mark aligned withtiming belt lower cover mark at 90° BTDC

8.15a Camshaft sprocket marks (A)aligned with cylinder head top surface (B) -

K8 engine

8.13 Mark direction of rotation of timingbelt before removal

8.12 Timing belt tensioner pulley bolt (A)and tensioner backplate clamp bolt (B)

2A


c) Crankshaft sprocket - The two dots mustbe positioned on each side of the raisedrib on the oil pump body (seeillustration).

16 If a used belt is being refitted, ensure thatthe arrow mark made on removal points in thenormal direction of rotation. Fit the timing beltover the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets,ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16engines, the top run) is taut, ie: all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt, then fitthe belt over the coolant pump sprocket andtensioner pulley. Do not twist the belt sharplyduring refitting and ensure that the belt teethare correctly seated centrally in the sprocketsand that the timing marks remain in alignment(see illustration)..17 Slacken the tensioner backplate clampbolt and check that the tensioner pulleymoves to tension the belt. If the tensionerassembly is not free to move under springtension, rectify the fault or the timing belt willnot be correctly tensioned.18 On K16 engines, remove the camshaftsprocket locking tool.19 On K8 engines, refit the engine/gearboxunit right-hand mounting bracket, tighteningits bolts to the specified torque wrenchsetting.20 On all engines, refit the timing belt lowercover and the crankshaft pulley.21 Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotatethe crankshaft two full turns clockwise tosettle and tension the belt. Realign thecrankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and checkthat the sprocket timing mark(s) are stillcorrectly aligned.22 If all is well, first tighten the tensionerpulley backplate clamp bolt to the specifiedtorque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allenscrew to the specified torque.23 Reassemble the engine/gearbox unitright-hand mounting, ensuring that the rubberwashers are correctly located, then tightenthe mounting nuts and bolts to their specifiedtorque settings. Remove the jack fromunderneath the engine unit.24 Refit the front undercover panel androadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.25 Refit the timing belt upper right-hand(outer) cover.

26 Where necessary, refit the power steeringfluid reservoir to the mounting bracket andsecure the hydraulic hose clamps in positionwith the retaining bolts.27 Refit the coolant expansion tank andtighten the mounting bolts securely. Securethe coolant hose in position with anynecessary retaining clips and reconnect thebattery negative lead.

Adjustment 28 As the timing belt is a ‘fit-and-forget’ type,the manufacturer states that tensioning needonly be carried out when a belt is (re)fitted. No

re-tensioning is recommended once a belthas been fitted and therefore this operation isnot included in the manufacturer’smaintenance schedule.29 If the timing belt is thought to beincorrectly tensioned, then adjust the tensionas described in paragraphs 1 to 7, 17, 21, 22and 24 to 27 above.30 If the timing belt has been disturbed,adjust its tension following the sameprocedure, omitting as appropriate theirrelevant preliminary dismantling/reassemblysteps.

9 Timing belt tensioner andsprockets - removal,inspection and refitting

4

Note: This Section describes as individualoperations the removal and refitting of thecomponents concerned. If more than one


9.2a Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K8 engine

1 Timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover

2 Seal3 Bolt4 Bolt5 Bolt6 Shouldered bolt7 Timing belt lower cover8 Seal9 Seal

10 Bolt11 Bolt

12 Crankshaft pulley13 Washer14 Crankshaft pulley bolt15 Timing belt tensioner

pulley assembly16 Tensioner pulley Allen

screw17 Tensioner backplate

clamp bolt18 Tensioner pulley spring19 Sleeve

20 Pillar bolt21 Timing belt22 Crankshaft sprocket23 Camshaft sprocket24 Camshaft sprocket bolt25 Washer26 Timing belt upper left-

hand (inner) cover27 Bolt - cover to water

pump28 Bolt

8.16 Refitting timing belt - K16 engine

8.15b Crankshaft sprocket dots (A)aligned on each side of oil pump raised

rib (B)


If both camshaft sprocketson K16 engines are to beremoved, it is good practiceto mark them (inlet or

exhaust) so that they can be returned totheir original locations on reassembly.

component needs to be removed at the sametime, start by removing the timing belt, thenremove each component as described belowwhilst ignoring the preliminary dismantlingsteps.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 To improve access to the timing beltcomponents (see illustrations), remove theexpansion tank mounting bolts then free thecoolant hose from any relevant retaining clipsand position the tank clear of the engine. Onmodels equipped with power-assistedsteering, undo all the power steering hoseretaining clip bolts then slide the fluid

reservoir out of its retaining clip and position itclear of the timing belt covers. Take great carenot to place any undue strain on hoses andmop up any spilt fluid immediately.3 Remove the timing belt upper right-hand(outer) cover.4 Apply the handbrake then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Remove the right-hand roadwheel.5 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel.6 Using a suitable spanner or socket on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in

a clockwise direction until the long white-painted mark on the crankshaft pulley’soutboard (right-hand) face is aligned with thesingle, separate mark on the timing belt lowercover so that the crankshaft is in the 90°BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details ofthe pulley/cover marks).7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s)align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15then proceed as described under the relevantsub-heading.

Camshaft sprocket(s)8 Slacken through half a turn each, the timingbelt tensioner pulley Allen screw and thetensioner backplate clamp bolt. Push thepulley assembly down to release all tensionfrom the timing belt, then re-tighten thebackplate clamp bolt securely.9 Remove the belt from the camshaftsprocket(s), taking care not to twist it toosharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt.Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timingbelt is refitted.10 On K8 engines, slacken the camshaftsprocket retaining bolt and remove it, alongwith its washer. To prevent the camshaft fromrotating, use Rover service tool 18G 1521 toretain the sprocket. If the tool is not available,then an acceptable substitute can befabricated from two lengths of steel strip (onelong, the other short) and three nuts and bolts.One nut and bolt should form the pivot of aforked tool with the remaining two nuts andbolts at the tips of the forks to engage withthe sprocket spokes, as shown in illus-tration 9.23a.11 On K16 engines, unscrew the appropriatecamshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it,along with its washer. To prevent a camshaftfrom rotating, lock together both sprocketsusing Rover service tool 18G 1570. This tool isa metal sprag shaped on both sides to fit the sprocket teeth and is inserted between thesprockets. If the tool is not available, then anacceptable substitute can be cut from a lengthof square-section steel tube or similar to fit asclosely as possible around the sprocketspokes (see illustrations).12 On all engines, remove the sprocket(s)from the camshaft end(s), noting the locatingroll pin(s) (see illustration). If a roll pin is a


9.12 Removing camshaft sprocket (roll pinarrowed) - K8 engine

9.11b . . . to fit sprocket spokes as closelyas possible - K16 engine

9.11a Camshaft locking tool cut from steelsection . . .

2A


9.2b Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K16 engine

1 Timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover

2 Bolt3 Seal4 Bolt5 Timing belt lower cover6 Seal7 Bolt8 Bolt9 Crankshaft pulley

10 Washer11 Crankshaft pulley bolt12 Timing belt13 Camshaft sprockets14 Bolt15 Washer16 Timing belt tensioner

pulley assembly17 Tensioner pulley Allen

screw

18 Tensioner pulley spring19 Sleeve20 Pillar bolt21 Tensioner backplate

clamp bolt22 Crankshaft sprocket23 Timing belt upper left-

hand (inner) cover24 Bolt

loose fit in the camshaft end, remove it andstore it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.

Crankshaft sprocket13 On K16 engines, use the tool described inparagraph 11 to lock together the camshaftsprockets so that they cannot move undervalve spring pressure when the timing belt isremoved.14 Remove the crankshaft pulley and timingbelt lower cover.15 Slacken through half a turn each thetiming belt tensioner pulley Allen screw andthe tensioner backplate clamp bolt, push thepulley assembly down to release all thetension from the timing belt, then re-tightenthe backplate clamp bolt securely.16 Work the belt clear of the crankshaftsprocket, taking care not to twist it toosharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt.Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timingbelt is refitted.17 Remove the sprocket from the crankshaft.

Tensioner assembly18 On K16 engines, use the tool described inparagraph 11 to lock together the camshaftsprockets so that they cannot move undervalve spring pressure when the timing belt isremoved.19 Using a suitable pair of pliers, unhook thetensioner spring from the pillar bolt. Unscrewthe tensioner pulley Allen screw and thetensioner backplate clamp bolt then withdrawthe tensioner assembly from the engine unit.Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timingbelt is re-tensioned.

Inspection20 Clean thoroughly the camshaft/crankshaftsprockets and renew any that show signs ofwear, damage or cracks.21 Clean the tensioner assembly but do notuse any strong solvent which may enter thepulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotatesfreely on the backplate, with no sign ofstiffness or of free play. Renew the assemblyif there is any doubt about its condition or if

there are any obvious signs of wear ordamage. The same applies to the tensionerspring, which should be checked with greatcare as its condition is critical for the correcttensioning of the timing belt.

RefittingCamshaft sprocket(s)22 If removed, refit the roll pin to thecamshaft end, ensuring that its split is facingthe centre of the camshaft, then refit thesprocket so that the timing marks are facingoutwards (to the right). On K16 engines,ensure that the appropriate sprocket keywayengages with the camshaft locating pin (ie: ifrefitting the inlet camshaft sprocket, engageits IN keyway with the roll pin and so on) thenrefit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer(see illustration). Where necessary, repeatthe procedure for the second sprocket.23 Prevent the sprocket(s) from rotating byusing the method employed on removal, thentighten the sprocket retaining bolt(s) to thespecified torque setting. Check that thesprocket timing marks align as described inSection 8, paragraph 15 (see illustrations).24 Fit the timing belt over the camshaftsprockets, ensuring that the belt front run(and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, thatis, all slack is on the tensioner pulley side ofthe belt. Do not twist the belt sharply whilerefitting it and ensure that the belt teeth arecorrectly seated centrally in the sprockets andthat the timing marks remain in alignment.25 Slacken the tensioner backplate clampbolt and check that the tensioner pulleymoves to tension the belt. If the tensionerassembly is not free to move under springtension, rectify the fault or the timing belt willnot be correctly tensioned.26 On K16 engines, remove the camshaftsprocket locking tool.27 Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotatethe crankshaft two full turns clockwise tosettle and tension the belt. Realign thecrankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and checkthat the sprocket timing mark(s) are stillcorrectly aligned.

28 If all is well, first tighten the tensionerpulley backplate clamp bolt to the specifiedtorque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allenscrew to the specified torque.29 Refit the front undercover panel androadwheel, then lower the vehicle to theground.30 Refit the timing belt upper right-hand(outer) cover.31 Where necessary, refit the power steeringfluid reservoir to the mounting bracket andsecure the hydraulic hose clamps in positionwith the retaining bolts.32 Refit the coolant expansion tank andtighten the mounting bolts securely. Securethe coolant hose in position with anynecessary retaining clips and reconnect thebattery negative lead.

Crankshaft sprocket33 Refit the sprocket to the crankshaft sothat it locates correctly on the crankshaft’sflattened section, noting that the sprocketflange must be innermost so that the twotiming marks are on the outside (right-handside) of the sprocket. Check that the sprockettiming marks align as described in Section 8,paragraph 15.34 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaftsprocket, ensuring that the belt front run (and,on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that is, allslack is on the tensioner pulley side of thebelt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it and ensure that the belt teethare correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain inalignment.35 Slacken the tensioner backplate clampbolt and check that the tensioner pulleymoves to tension the belt. If the tensionerassembly is not free to move under springtension, rectify the fault or the timing belt willnot be correctly tensioned.36 On K16 engines, remove the camshaftsprocket locking tool.37 Refit the lower timing belt cover and thecrankshaft pulley.38 Carry out the operations described inparagraphs 27 to 32.


9.23b Locking camshafts in position withfabricated tool - K16 engine

9.23a Using fabricated tool to holdcamshaft pulley in position - K8 engine

9.22 Camshaft sprockets have twokeyways. Engage EX keyway with exhaustcamshaft roll pin and IN keyway with inlet

camshaft roll pin - K16 engine


Tensioner pulley39 Refit the tensioner pulley assembly andtighten the pulley Allen screw and thebackplate clamp bolt lightly. Hook thetensioner spring over the pillar bolt and checkthat the tensioner is free to move under springtension and that the pulley bears correctlyagainst the timing belt (see illustration).40 On K16 engines, remove the camshaftsprocket locking tool.41 Carry out the operations described abovein paragraphs 27 to 32.

10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal 4Note: If a right-hand oil seal is to be renewedwith the timing belt still in place, then checkthat the belt is free from oil contamination.Renew the belt if signs of oil contaminationare found. Cover the belt to protect it fromcontamination while work is in progress andensure that all traces of oil are removed fromthe area before the belt is refitted.

Right-hand seal(s)1 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s).2 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tappingscrew into each and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.3 Clean the seal housing and polish off anyburrs or raised edges which may have causedthe seal to fail in the first place.4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with cleanengine oil and drive it into position until itseats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitabletubular drift, such as a socket, which bearsonly on the hard outer edge of the seal (seeillustration). Take care not to damage theseal lips during fitting and note that the seallips should face inwards.5 Refit the camshaft sprocket(s).

Left-hand seals - K16 engines6 Disconnect the battery negative lead.7 To reach the inlet camshaft seal, removethe distributor.8 To reach the exhaust camshaft seal,

unfasten the rubber strap securing the airintake duct to its support bracket, disconnectthe vacuum pipe from the air temperaturecontrol valve and unclip the pipe from thesupport bracket. Undo the bracket’s retainingbolts and remove the bracket from thecylinder head (see illustration).9 Remove the old seal and install the new oneas described above in paragraphs 2 to 4.10 On the inlet camshaft, refit the distributor.11 On the exhaust camshaft, refit the airintake duct support bracket, tightening itsscrews to the specified torque wrench setting.Reconnect and secure the air temperaturecontrol valve vacuum pipe and refit the rubberstrap to secure the air intake duct.12 Connect the battery negative lead.

11 Camshafts and hydraulictappets - removal, inspectionand refitting

4

Note: Prior to removing the camshaft(s), obtainRover sealant kit LVV 10002 which alsocontains a plastic scraper. Read theinstructions supplied with the kit and take carenot to allow the sealant to contact the fingers,as it will bond the skin. If difficulty isexperienced with the removal of hardenedsealant from mating surfaces, it will benecessary to use a foam action gasket remover.

RemovalK8 engines1 Remove the cylinder head cover (seeillustration 11.0a overleaf).2 Remove the distributor.3 Remove the camshaft sprocket.

4 Carefully prise the oil feed tube away fromthe camshaft bearing caps and remove it from the head assembly. Remove the O-rings from the oil rail and discard them. The O-rings must be renewed whenever theyare disturbed.5 The camshaft right and left-hand endbearing caps are noticeably different andcannot be confused. The intermediate bearingcaps (which are all similar) are marked by themanufacturer with a number (1, 2, 3, or 4)stamped in the boss next to the oil feed hole.Before unbolting any of the caps, makewritten notes to ensure that each can beeasily identified and refitted in its originallocation.6 Working in the reverse of the tighteningsequence (see illustration 11.29), slacken thecamshaft bearing cap bolts progressively, byone turn at a time. Work only as described torelease the pressure of the valve springs onthe bearing caps gradually and evenly.7 Withdraw the bearing caps, noting thepresence of the locating dowels on the endcaps, then remove the camshaft and withdrawthe oil seal.8 Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers,number them 1 to 8, and then fill them withclean engine oil. Using a rubber sucker,withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn (seeillustration), and place it in its respectivecontainer, to prevent oil loss. Do notinterchange the hydraulic tappets or the rateof wear will be much increased and do notallow them to lose oil or they will take a long


10.8 Remove air intake duct supportbracket to reach exhaust camshaft left-

hand oil seal - K16 engine

10.4 Fitting a new camshaft right-hand oilseal - K16 engine

9.39 Ensure timing belt tensioner spring iscorrectly hooked onto pillar bolt

2A


If faulty tappets arediagnosed and the engine’sservice history is unknown,it is always worth trying the

effect of renewing the engine oil andfilter (using only good quality engine oilof the recommended viscosity andspecification) before going to theexpense of renewing any of thetappets.

11.8 Use a valve-grinding sucker toextract hydraulic tappets



11.0a Top end components - K8 engine

11.0b Top end components - K16 engine

1 Cylinder head cover2 Seal3 Engine oil filler cap4 Seal5 Bolt6 HT lead retaining clip

bracket7 Screw8 HT lead retaining clip9 HT lead retaining clip

10 HT lead retaining clipbracket

11 Air intake duct supportbracket

12 Fastener insert13 Bolt14 Oil seal15 Roll pin16 Camshaft17 Camshaft right-hand

bearing cap*18 Dowel19 Bolt20 Camshaft intermediate

bearing cap*21 Bolt22 Camshaft left-hand

bearing cap*

23 Oil feed tube24 O-ring25 Cylinder head bolt26 Cylinder head27 Cylinder head gasket28 Hydraulic tappet29 Split collets30 Spring retainer31 Valve spring32 Valve stem seal/ spring

lower seat33 Valve guide34 Inlet valve35 Valve seat insert36 Exhaust valve37 Valve seat insert38 Gasket39 Coolant outlet elbow40 Bolt41 Coolant temperature

gauge sender unit42 Spark plug

* Note: Camshaft bearingcaps shown for referenceonly - not availableseparately from cylinderhead

1 Spark plug cover2 Screw3 Retaining washer4 Engine oil filler cap5 Seal6 Spark plug7 Pillar bolt8 HT lead grommet9 HT lead clip plate

10 Bolt11 Cylinder head cover12 Gasket13 Camshaft carrier*14 Bolt15 Cylinder head bolt16 Inlet camshaft17 Exhaust camshaft18 Roll pin19 Rotor arm drive

spindle20 Oil seal21 Hydraulic tappet22 Split collets23 Spring retainer

24 Valve spring25 Valve stem seal/spring

lower seat26 Cylinder head27 Dowel28 Cylinder head gasket29 Valve guide30 Inlet valves31 Valve seat insert32 Exhaust valves33 Valve seat insert34 Air intake duct support

bracket35 Bolt36 Gasket37 Coolant outlet elbow38 Bolt39 Coolant temperature

gauge sender unit

* Note: Camshaft carriershown for reference only -not available separatelyfrom cylinder head

time to refill with oil on restarting the engine,resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

K16 engines9 Remove both camshaft sprockets, thenunscrew the inner cover’s upper retainingbolts so that the cover can be pulled awayfrom the cylinder head just far enough foradequate working clearance. Take care not todistort or damage the cover or the timing belt(see illustration).10 Remove the cylinder head cover (seeillustration 11.0b).11 Remove the distributor.12 Unclip the air temperature control valvevacuum pipe from the air intake duct supportbracket, then unbolt the bracket from thecylinder head.13 Working in the reverse of the tighteningsequence (see illustration 11.36), evenly andprogressively slacken the camshaft carrierbolts by one turn at a time. Once all valvespring pressure has been relieved, remove thebolts.14 Withdraw the camshaft carrier, noting thepresence of the locating dowels, then removethe camshafts and slide off the oil seals. Theinlet camshaft can be identified by thedistributor rotor arm drive spindle (or itslocation), therefore there is no need to markthe camshafts.15 Obtain sixteen small, clean plasticcontainers, number them 1 to 16, and then fillthem with clean engine oil. Using a rubber

sucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn(see illustration 11.8), and place it in itsrespective container, to prevent oil loss. Donot interchange the hydraulic tappets or therate of wear will be much increased and donot allow them to lose oil or they will take along time to refill with oil on restarting theengine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

Inspection16 Check each hydraulic tappet for signs ofobvious wear (scoring, pitting, etc) and forovality. Renew if necessary.17 If the engine’s valve clearances havesounded noisy, particularly if the noisepersists after initial start-up from cold, thenthere is reason to suspect a faulty hydraulictappet. Only a good mechanic experienced inthese engines can tell whether the noise levelis typical, or if renewal is warranted of one ormore of the tappets.18 If any tappet’s operation is faulty, then itmust be renewed.19 Carefully remove all traces of old sealantfrom the mating surfaces of the bearing capsor camshaft carrier and cylinder head by usinga plastic scraper. Examine the camshaftbearing journals and the cylinder head bearingsurfaces for signs of obvious wear or pitting. Ifany such signs are evident, renew thecomponent concerned.20 To check the bearing journal runningclearance, remove the hydraulic tappets,carefully clean the bearing surfaces and refitthe camshaft(s) and carrier/bearing caps with astrand of Plastigauge across each journal.Tighten the carrier/bearing cap bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting whilst takinggreat care not to rotate the camshaft(s), thenremove the carrier/bearing caps and use thescale provided with the Plastigauge kit tomeasure the width of each compressed strand.21 If the running clearance of any bearing isfound to be worn to the specified service limitor beyond, fit a new camshaft and repeat thecheck. If the clearance is still excessive, thenthe cylinder head must be renewed.22 To check camshaft endfloat, remove thehydraulic tappets, carefully clean the bearingsurfaces and refit the camshaft(s) andcarrier/bearing caps. Tighten to the specified

torque wrench setting the carrier/bearing capbolts, then measure the endfloat using a DialTest Indicator (DTI) or dial gauge mounted onthe cylinder head so that its tip bears on thecamshaft right-hand end.23 Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge,zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fullyaway from the gauge and note the gaugereading. If the endfloat measured is found tobe worn to the specified service limit orbeyond, fit a new camshaft and repeat thecheck. If the clearance is still excessive, thenthe cylinder head must be renewed.24 The camshaft itself should show no signs ofmarks, pitting or scoring on the lobe surfaces. Ifsuch marks are evident, renew the camshaft.25 If a camshaft is renewed, extract the rollpin from the old one and fit the pin to the newcamshaft with its split towards the camshaft’scentre.

RefittingK8 engines26 Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulictappet bores and the tappets (seeillustration). Note that if new tappets arebeing fitted, they must be charged with cleanengine oil before installation. Carefully refit thetappets to the cylinder head, ensuring thateach tappet is refitted to its original bore and isthe correct way up. Some care will be requiredto enter the tappets squarely into their bores.27 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings andlobes then refit the camshaft. Position theshaft so that its No 1 cylinder lobes arepointing away from their valves and the rollpin in the camshaft’s right-hand end is in the 4 o’clock position when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine (see illustration).28 Ensure that the locating dowels arepressed firmly into their recesses. Check thatthe mating surfaces are completely clean,unmarked and free from oil, then apply a thinbead of special Rover sealant to the matingsurfaces of the front and rear bearing caps asshown (see illustration 11.29). Carefullyfollow the instructions supplied with thesealant kit. Refit the bearing caps, using thenotes made on removal, to ensure that each isinstalled correctly and in its original location(see illustration).


11.28 Apply sealant (arrowed) and fitcamshaft bearing caps - K8 engine

11.27 Camshaft roll pin location at TDCposition (for refitting camshaft bearing

caps) - K8 engine

11.26 Lubricate hydraulic tappetsthoroughly and refit correct way up -

K8 engine

2A


11.9 Secure partly-removed timing beltupper left-hand (inner) cover clear of

cylinder head - K16 engine

29 Working in the sequence shown (seeillustration), progressively tighten thecamshaft bearing cap bolts by one turn at atime until the caps touch the cylinder headevenly. Now go round again, working in thesame sequence, and tighten all the bolts tothe specified torque setting. Work only asdescribed to impose the pressure of the valvesprings gradually and evenly on the bearing caps. Wipe off all surplus sealant so

that none is left to find its way into anyoilways.30 Squirt clean engine oil into each camshaftbearing cap oil hole, then fit new O-rings toeach of the oil feed tube stubs (seeillustration). Refit the oil feed tube to thecylinder head and press it firmly into positionin the camshaft bearing caps.31 Fit a new camshaft oil seal (seeillustration), then refit the cylinder head coverand camshaft sprocket.32 Refit the distributor.

K16 engines33 Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulictappet bores and the tappets. Note that if newtappets are being fitted, they must be chargedwith clean engine oil before installation.Carefully refit the tappets to the cylinder head,ensuring that each tappet is refitted to itsoriginal bore and is the correct way up. Somecare will be required to enter the tappetssquarely into their bores.34 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings andlobes and refit them to the cylinder head.Position each shaft so that its No 1 cylinderlobes are pointing away from their valves.With the shafts in this position, the roll pin inthe inlet camshaft’s right-hand end will be inthe 4 o’clock position when viewed from theright-hand end of the engine, while that of the

exhaust camshaft will be in the 8 o’clockposition (see illustration).35 Ensure that the locating dowels arepressed firmly into their recesses, check thatthe mating surfaces are completely clean,unmarked and free from oil, then apply a thinbead of special Rover sealant to the matingsurfaces of the camshaft carrier as shown(see illustration). Carefully follow theinstructions supplied with the sealant kit. Refitthe carrier.36 Working in the sequence shown (seeillustration), progressively tighten thecamshaft carrier bolts by one turn at a timeuntil the carrier touches the cylinder headevenly. Now go round again, working in thesame sequence, tightening all bolts to thespecified torque setting. Work only asdescribed to impose the pressure of the valvesprings gradually and evenly on the carrier.Wipe off all surplus sealant so that none is leftto find its way into any oilways.37 Fit new camshaft oil seals, then refit thecylinder head cover, inner timing coverretaining bolts and camshaft sprockets.38 Refit the distributor.39 Refit the air intake duct support bracket,tightening its screws to their specified torquewrench setting, then reconnect and securethe air temperature control valve vacuum pipeand refit the rubber strap to secure the airintake duct.


11.36 Camshaft carrier bolt tighteningsequence - K16 engine

11.35 Apply thin bead of sealant tocamshaft carrier mating surfaces along

paths shown by heavy black lines - K16 engine

11.31 Fitting a new camshaft right-handoil seal - K8 engine

11.34 Camshaft roll pin locations at TDCposition for refitting camshaft carrier

(arrowed) - K16 engine

11.30b Renew O-rings (arrowed) beforerefitting oil feed tube - K8 engine

11.30a Fill oil holes with clean engine oil -K8 engine

11.29 Camshaft bearing cap bolttightening sequence - K8 engine

Note: Apply thin bead of sealant to endbearing cap mating surfaces along paths

shown by heavy black lines


12 Valve clearances - general information

1 It is necessary for a clearance to existbetween the tip of each valve stem and thevalve operating mechanism. This allows forexpansion of the various engine componentsas the engine reaches normal operatingtemperature.2 On most older engine designs, this meantthat the valve clearances (also known as‘tappet’ clearances) had to be checked andadjusted regularly. If the clearances were tooslack, the engine would be very noisy, itspower output would suffer and its fuelconsumption would increase. Conversely, ifthe clearances were too tight, the engine’spower output would be reduced and thevalves and their seats could be severelydamaged.3 The engines covered in this Manual employhydraulic tappets which use engine oilpressure to automatically take up theclearance between each camshaft lobe andits respective valve stem. This means thatthere is no need for regular checking andinspection of the valve clearances, but it isessential that only good quality oil of therecommended viscosity and specification isused in the engine and that this oil isscrupulously changed at the recommendedintervals. If this advice is not followed, theoilways and tappets may become cloggedwith particles of dirt or deposits of burntengine oil, so that the system cannot workproperly. Ultimately, one or more of thetappets may fail and expensive repairs maybe required.4 On starting the engine from cold, there willbe a slight delay while full oil pressure buildsup in all parts of the engine, especially in thetappets. The valve clearances, therefore, maywell rattle for about 10 seconds or so andthen quieten. This is a normal state of affairsand is nothing to worry about, provided thatall tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet.5 After the vehicle has been standing forseveral days, the valve clearances may rattlefor longer than usual as nearly all the oil willhave drained away from the engine’s top endcomponents and bearing surfaces. While thisis only to be expected, care must be taken notto damage the engine by running it at highspeed until all the tappets are refilled with oiland operating normally. With the vehiclestationary, hold the engine at no more than afast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)for 10 to 15 minutes or until the noise ceases.Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpmuntil all tappets are fully recharged with oil andall noise has ceased.6 If the valve clearances are thought to benoisy, or if a light rattle persists from theengine’s top end after it has reached normaloperating temperature, take the vehicle to aRover dealer for expert advice. Depending on

the mileage covered and the usage to whicheach vehicle has been put, some vehicles maybe noisier than others. Only a good mechanicexperienced in these engines can tell if thenoise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileageor if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’soperation is faulty, then it must be renewed.

13 Cylinder head - removal and refitting 4

Note: Due to engine design, it will becomevery difficult, almost impossible, to turn thecrankshaft once the cylinder head bolts havebeen slackened. The manufacturer states thatthe crankshaft will be ‘tight’ and should not berotated more than absolutely necessary oncethe head has been removed. If the crankshaftcannot be rotated, then it must be removedfor overhaul work to proceed. With this inmind, the crankshaft always must be rotatedto the desired position before the bolts aredisturbed.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Drain the cooling system.3 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s).4 Unscrew the bolts securing the timing beltupper left-hand (inner) cover to the cylinderhead, so that the cover can be pulled awayfrom the cylinder head just far enough foradequate working clearance. Take care not todistort or damage the cover or the timing belt.5 Remove the cylinder head cover.6 Disconnect the exhaust system front pipefrom the manifold and, where fitted,disconnect or release the lambda sensorwiring so that it is not strained by the weightof the exhaust.7 Note that the following text assumes thatthe cylinder head will be removed with bothinlet and exhaust manifolds attached. This iseasier but makes it a bulky and heavyassembly to handle. If it is wished first toremove the manifolds, proceed as describedin the relevant Sections of Chapter 4.8 On carburettor engines, disconnect thefollowing from the carburettor and inletmanifold as described in the relevant Sectionsof Chapter 4A:a) Fuel pump feed hose - plug both

openings to prevent loss of fuel and entryof dirt into system.

b) Carburettor idle bypass solenoid wires.c) Accelerator cable.d) Choke cable.e) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose.f) Inlet manifold PTC heater wire.g) Inlet manifold heater temperature switch

wiring.9 On fuel-injected engines, refer to therelevant Sections of Chapter 4B or C, anddisconnect or remove all throttle body/fuel railcomponents appertaining to cylinder headremoval, noting the following:

a) The fuel system must be depressurisedbefore any component is disconnected.

b) Plug the open ends of all disconnectedpipes to prevent loss of fuel and entry ofdirt into system.

c) Discard all sealing washers and O-rings,these must be renewed.

10 Working as described in Chapter 3,disconnect the connector plug from thecoolant temperature sensor screwed into thecoolant outlet elbow, then disconnect thecoolant hoses from the (three) inlet manifoldunions and from the coolant outlet elbow.11 Unclip the engine wiring harness from theinlet manifold or its support stays. Slacken thebolts securing the stays to the manifold, thenunbolt the support stays and the carburettormetal overflow pipes from the cylinderblock/crankcase.12 Remove the distributor cap, completewith the spark plug HT leads. Remove thespark plugs.13 On K16 engines equipped with airconditioning, undo the nuts and boltssecuring the heat shields to the rear of thealternator and air conditioning compressorand remove both heat shields. Slacken thetwo lower alternator mounting bolts thenremove the upper mounting bolt and pivot thealternator away from the cylinder head.14 Working in the reverse of the tighteningsequence (see illustrations 13.29a or13.29b), progressively slacken the tencylinder head bolts by one turn at a time. Afemale Torx-type socket (No 12 size) will berequired. Remove each bolt in turn and storeit in its correct fitted order by pushing itthrough a clearly-marked cardboard template.15 The joint between the cylinder head andgasket and the cylinder block/crankcase mustnow be broken without disturbing the wetliners. Although these liners are better locatedand sealed than some wet liner engines, thereis still a risk of coolant and foreign matterleaking into the sump if the cylinder head islifted carelessly. If care is not taken and theliners are moved, there is also a possibility ofthe bottom seals being disturbed, causingleakage after refitting the head.16 To break the joint, obtain two L-shapedmetal bars which fit into the cylinder head boltholes and gently rock the cylinder head freetowards the front of the vehicle (seeillustration). Do not try to swivel the head on


13.16 Using two cranked bars to breakcylinder head joint

2A


the cylinder block/crankcase as it is locatedby dowels as well as by the tops of the liners.17 With the joint broken, lift the cylinder headaway, using assistance if possible as it is aheavy assembly, especially if complete withthe manifolds. Remove the gasket, noting thetwo locating dowels, and discard it.18 Further to the warnings given in the noteat the beginning of this Section, do notattempt to rotate the crankshaft with thecylinder head removed, otherwise the wetliners may be displaced. Operations thatwould normally require the rotation of thecrankshaft (eg: cleaning the piston crowns)must be carried out with great care to ensurethat no particles of dirt or foreign matter areleft behind. If cylinder liner clamps are to beused, they must be clamped in place using

spacers fitted under the heads of the cylinderhead bolts.19 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled,remove the camshaft(s) then refer to therelevant Sections of Part B of this Chapter.

Refitting20 Check the condition of the cylinder headbolts, particularly their threads. Keeping allbolts in their correct fitted order, wash themand wipe dry. Check each bolt for any sign ofvisible wear or damage, renewing asnecessary. Lightly oil the threads of each bolt,carefully enter it into its original hole andscrew it in, by hand only until finger-tight.Measure the distance from the cylinderblock/crankcase gasket surface to under thebolt’s head (see illustration).21 If the distance measured is under 97 mm,the bolt may be re-used. If the distancemeasured is more than 97 mm, the bolt mustbe renewed. Considering the task these boltsperform and the pressures they mustwithstand, owners should consider renewingall the bolts as a matched set if more than oneof the originals fail inspection or are close tothe limit set.22 The mating faces of the cylinder head andcylinder block/crankcase must be perfectlyclean before refitting the head. Use a hardplastic or wood scraper to remove all traces ofgasket and carbon.23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinderblock/crankcase and the cylinder head for

nicks, deep scratches and other damage. Ifslight, they may be removed carefully with afile, but if excessive, machining may be theonly alternative to renewal.24 If warpage of the cylinder head gasketsurface is suspected, use a straight-edge tocheck it for distortion. Refer to Part B of thisChapter if necessary.25 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of thecylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.Check that the two locating dowels are inposition at each end of the cylinderblock/crankcase surface.26 Position a new gasket on the cylinderblock/crankcase surface so that its TOP markis uppermost and the FRONT arrow points tothe timing belt end (see illustrations).27 Refit the cylinder head, locating it on thedowels (see illustration).28 Keeping all the cylinder head bolts in theircorrect fitted order, wash them and wipe dry.Lightly oil under the head and on the threadsof each bolt, carefully enter it into its originalhole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-tight.29 Working progressively and in thesequence shown (see illustrations), use firsta torque wrench, then an ordinary socketextension bar to tighten the cylinder headbolts through the specified stages. To tightenthe bolts through the specified angles, simplyuse a felt-tip pen or similar to mark theposition on the cylinder head of each bolthead’s radial mark. The second stage then


13.29c Alignment of bolt head radialmarks with cylinder head to establish

tightening angles (arrowed)13.29b Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence - K16 engine13.29a Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence - K8 engine

13.27 Refitting the cylinder head

13.26b . . . so that TOP mark is upwardsand FRONT arrow points to timing belt end

13.26a Fit new cylinder head gasket ontwo locating dowels (arrowed) . . .

13.20 Checking condition of cylinder headbolt threads - cylinder head removed


tightens each bolt through half a turn so thatthe marks face away from each other and thethird stage tightens them through anotherhalf-turn so that all the bolt-head marks willthen align again with their cylinder headcounterparts. If any bolt is overtightened pastits mark, slacken it through 90°, then re-tighten until the marks align (see illustration).30 Refit and tighten the inlet manifoldsupport stay bolts, then secure the enginewiring harness using the clips provided.31 On K16 engines equipped with airconditioning, refit the alternator mountingbolts and tighten them to the specified torquesetting. Refit the compressor and alternatorheatshields, tightening their retaining boltsand nuts securely.32 Connect all disturbed coolant hoses,securing them in position with their retainingclips. Reconnect the coolant temperaturesensor wiring.33 Working as described in Chapter 4,connect or refit all disturbed wiring, hoses andcontrol cable(s) to the inlet manifold and fuelsystem components, then adjust the chokeand or accelerator cable(s).34 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipeto the manifold and (if applicable) reconnectthe lambda sensor wiring.35 Refit the cylinder head cover, inner timingcover retaining bolts and camshaftsprocket(s).36 Refit the spark plugs and distributor capthen reconnect the battery negative lead.37 Refill the cooling system.

14 Sump - removal and refitting 2

Note: It is essential that new bolts of thePatchlok type are used when refitting thesump.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Drain the engine oil then clean and refit theengine oil drain plug, tightening it to thespecified torque wrench setting. If the engineis nearing its service interval when the oil andfilter are due for renewal, it is recommendedthat the filter is also removed and a new onefitted. After reassembly, the engine can thenbe replenished with fresh engine oil.3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Remove the right-hand roadwheel.4 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel.5 Working as described in Chapter 4,disconnect the exhaust system front pipefrom the manifold and, where fitted,disconnect or release the lambda sensor

wiring so that it is not strained by the weightof the exhaust.6 Unscrew the three retaining bolts andremove the flywheel lower cover plate (seeillustration).7 Slacken and remove the bolts securing theanti-beaming bracket to the engine andtransmission and remove the bracket.8 Progressively slacken the sump retainingbolts then remove them along with the anti-beaming bracket support. Make a note of thecorrect fitted position of the support and ofthe longer bolts at positions 4, 8 and 12 (seeillustration 14.14) to ensure correct refitmenton reassembly.9 Break the joint by striking the sump with thepalm of the hand, then lower the sump andwithdraw it (see illustration).10 While the sump is removed, take theopportunity to unbolt the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe and clean it using a suitablesolvent. Inspect the strainer mesh for signs ofclogging or splitting and renew if necessary.

Refitting11 Clean all traces of gasket from the matingsurfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase andsump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s interior. If the oilpump pick-up/strainer pipe was removed, fit anew sealing O-ring to its end and refit thepipe, tightening its retaining bolts to thespecified torque setting.12 If the sump gasket is damaged or showssigns of deterioration, then it must berenewed. Fit the gasket to the sump mating

surface so that its 7 locating pegs fit into thesump holes (see illustration).13 Offer up the sump to the cylinderblock/crankcase then fit the new sumpretaining bolts, not forgetting the anti-beaming bracket support. Tighten the boltsfinger-tight only.14 Working in the sequence shown (seeillustration), tighten the sump bolts to thespecified torque setting.15 Refit the anti-beaming bracket and tightenthe mounting bolts to the specified torquesetting.16 Install the flywheel lower cover plate andtighten the retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque wrench setting.17 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipeto the manifold and, where necessary,reconnect the lambda sensor wiring.18 Refit the undercover panel and wheel,then lower the vehicle to the ground andreconnect the battery negative lead.19 Replenish the engine oil.

15 Oil pump - removal and refitting 4

Note: The oil pressure relief valve can bedismantled without removing the oil pumpfrom the vehicle. See Section 16 for details.

Removal1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket andsecure the timing belt clear of the working


14.9 Removing the sump14.6 Remove flywheel lower cover plate toreach sump bolts

14.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence14.12 Sump gasket pegs must engagewith sump mating surface holes

2A


area so that it cannot be contaminated withoil.2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit theengine oil drain plug, tightening it to thespecified torque wrench setting. If the engineis nearing its service interval when the oil andfilter are due for renewal, it is recommendedthat the filter is also removed and a new onefitted. After reassembly, the engine can thenbe replenished with fresh engine oil.3 Where necessary, unscrew the alternatoradjuster link retaining nut and unbolt theengine wiring harness guide retaining screws,then move the link and guide clear of the oilpump.4 Unscrew the oil pump retaining bolts,noting the fitted position of the special bolt,and withdraw the oil pump (see illustration).Recover the pump gasket and discard it, thencarefully lever the crankshaft right-hand oilseal out of the oil pump. The oil seal should berenewed whenever it is disturbed.

Refitting5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oilpump and cylinder block/crankcase. Usegrease to stick a new gasket in place.6 Prime the pump before installation byinjecting clean engine oil into it and turning itby hand.7 Offer up the pump, ensuring that its inner

gear engages fully on the crankshaft flats,then push the pump fully into position.8 Refit the pump retaining bolts, ensuring thatthe special bolt is refitted to its originalposition. Tighten the retaining bolts to thespecified torque setting in the order shown(see illustration).9 If removed, refit the alternator adjuster linkand the engine wiring harness guide, thentighten securely the retaining nut and screws.10 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal.11 Remove all traces of surplus oil then refitthe crankshaft sprocket.12 Replenish the engine oil.

16 Oil pump - dismantling,inspection and reassembly 4

Note: If oil pump wear is suspected, check thecost and availability of new parts (onlyavailable in the form of repair kit LQX 10001)against the cost of a new pump. Examine thepump as described in this Section and thendecide whether renewal or repair is the bestcourse of action.

Dismantling1 Remove the oil pump.2 Unscrew the Torx screws (size T25) andremove the pump cover plate. Discard thesealing ring.3 Note the identification marks on the outerrotor then remove both the rotors from thebody.

4 The oil pressure relief valve can bedismantled, if required, without disturbing thepump. If this is to be done with the pump inposition and the engine still installed in thevehicle, it will first be necessary to jack up thefront of the vehicle and remove the right-handroadwheel to gain access to the valve (seeillustration).5 To dismantle the valve, unscrew thethreaded plug and recover the valve springand plunger (see illustration). Discard theplug sealing washer.

Inspection6 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wearor damage and renew if necessary. If thepump body or cover plate is scored ordamaged, then the complete oil pumpassembly must be renewed.7 Using feeler gauge blades of theappropriate thickness, measure the clearancebetween the outer rotor and the pump body,then between the tips of the inner and outerrotor lobes (a and b respectively) (seeillustration).8 Using feeler gauge blades and a straight-edge placed across the top of the pump bodyand the rotors, measure the rotor endfloat (c). 9 If any measurement is outside the specifiedlimits, the complete pump assembly must berenewed.10 If the pressure relief valve plunger isscored, or if it does not slide freely in thepump body bore, then it must be renewed,using all the components from the repair kit.11 To complete a thorough inspection of theoil pump components, the sump should beremoved and the oil pump pick-up/strainerpipe removed and cleaned.

Reassembly12 Lubricate the pump rotors with cleanengine oil and refit them to the pump body,


16.7 Checking oil pump rotors for wear -see text for details

16.5 Oil pressure relief valve assembly

1 Threaded plug2 Valve spring and plunger

16.4 Unscrewing oil pressure relief valvethreaded plug

15.8 Oil pump bolt tightening sequence

15.4 Alternator adjuster link nut (A) wiringguide screws (B) oil pump bolts (C) and

special oil pump bolt (D)


ensuring that the outer rotor’s identificationmark faces outwards (see illustration).13 Fit a new sealing ring to the pump bodyand refit the cover plate. Apply thread-lockingcompound to the threads of the cover plateTorx screws and tighten them securely.14 Check that the pump rotates freely, thenprime it by injecting oil into its passages androtating it. If a long time elapses before thepump is refitted to the engine, prime it againbefore installation.15 Refit the oil pressure relief valve plunger,ensuring that it is the correct way up, theninstall the spring. Fit a new sealing washer tothe threaded plug and tighten the plugsecurely.

17 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Right-hand seal1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket andsecure the timing belt clear of the workingarea so that it cannot be contaminated withoil.2 Punch or drill two small holes oppositeeach other in the seal. Screw a self-tappingscrew into each and pull on the screws withpliers to extract the seal.3 Clean the seal housing and polish off anyburrs or raised edges which may have causedthe seal to fail in the first place.4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with cleanengine oil and drive it into position until itseats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitabletubular drift, such as a socket, which bearsonly on the hard outer edge of the seal. Takecare not to damage the seal lips during fitting.Use either grease or a thin layer of insulatingtape to protect the seal lips from the edges ofthe crankshaft flats but be careful to removeall traces of tape and to lubricate the seal lipsif the second method is used. Note that theseal lips should face inwards.5 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit thecrankshaft sprocket.

Left-hand seal6 Remove the flywheel.

7 Taking care not to mark either thecrankshaft or any part of the cylinderblock/crankcase, lever the seal evenly out ofits housing.8 Clean the seal housing and polish off anyburrs or raised edges which may have causedthe seal to fail in the first place.9 Lubricate with grease the lips of the newseal and the crankshaft shoulder, then offerup the seal to the cylinder block/crankcase.10 Ease the sealing lip of the seal over thecrankshaft shoulder by hand only, then pressthe seal evenly into its housing until its outerflange seats evenly on the housing lip. Ifnecessary, a soft-faced mallet can be used totap the seal gently into place.11 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit theflywheel.

18 Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting 5

Removal1 Remove the gearbox and the clutchassembly.2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by lockingthe ring gear teeth (see illustration) or bybolting a strap between the flywheel and thecylinder block/crankcase.3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retainingbolts and discard them The bolts must berenewed whenever they are disturbed.4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it isvery heavy.

Inspection5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface isdeeply scored, cracked or otherwisedamaged, then the flywheel must be renewed,unless it is possible to have it surface ground.Seek the advice of a Rover dealer or enginereconditioning specialist.6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missingteeth, then it must be renewed. This job isbest left to a Rover dealer or enginereconditioning specialist. The temperature towhich the new ring gear must be heated forinstallation (350°C - shown by an even lightblue colour) is critical and, if not done

accurately, the hardness of the teeth will bedestroyed.7 Examine the reluctor ring (fitted to the rearof the flywheel) for signs of damage andcheck that it is securely fastened by the tworetaining screws. If the reluctor ring isdamaged, then it must be renewed.

Refitting8 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheeland crankshaft. Clean any remaining adhesivefrom the threads of the crankshaft threadedholes by making two saw cuts at oppositepoints along the (carefully-cleaned) threads ofone of the original flywheel bolts and screwingit into each hole in turn. Do not use a tap toclean the threads in this way.9 Position the flywheel over the crankshaft’slocating dowel, press it into place and fit sixnew bolts.10 Lock the flywheel using the methodemployed on dismantling, then tighten theretaining bolts to the specified torque wrenchsetting.11 Refit the clutch, then remove the lockingtool and refit the gearbox.

19 Engine/gearbox mountings -inspection and renewal 2

Inspection1 If improved access is required, raise thefront of the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands.2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it iscracked, hardened or separated from themetal at any point. Renew the mounting if anysuch damage or deterioration is evident.3 Check that all mounting fasteners aresecurely tightened. Use a torque wrench tocheck, if possible.4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar,check for wear in the mounting by carefullylevering against it to check for free play.Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of anassistant to move the engine/gearbox unitback and forth or from side to side while you watch the mounting. While some free playis to be expected even from newcomponents, excessive wear should beobvious. If excessive free play is found, checkfirst that the fasteners are correctly secured,then renew any worn components asdescribed below.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.6 To improve access to the mounting,remove the expansion tank mounting boltsthen free the coolant hose from any relevantretaining clips and position the tank clear ofthe engine. On models equipped with power-assisted steering, undo all the power steeringhose retaining clamp bolts then slide the fluid


18.2 Using fabricated tool to lock flywheelin position

16.12 Oil pump outer rotor outside faceidentifying mark (arrowed)

2A


reservoir out of its retaining clip and position itclear of the timing belt covers. Take great carenot to place any undue strain on hoses andmop up any spilt fluid immediately.7 Support the weight of the engine/gearboxunit by using a trolley jack, with a woodenspacer to prevent damage to the sump.Unscrew the mounting through-bolt and nutand the mounting to bracket nuts. Removethe mounting, noting the two rubber washers(see illustrations).8 Where necessary, unscrew the retainingbolts and remove the bracket from thecylinder block/crankcase.9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damageon all components and renew them wherenecessary.10 On reassembly, refit the bracket to the

cylinder block/crankcase and tighten theretaining bolts to the specified torque setting.11 Locate the rubber washers on themounting, one on each side of its centre boss,then refit the mounting to the bracket andtighten the retaining nuts, finger-tight only.12 Using the trolley jack to position theengine unit at the correct height, refit fromrear to front the mounting-to-body through-bolt, ensuring that the rubber washers arecorrectly seated, then refit the nut (seeillustration).13 Tighten the mounting to bracket nuts andthe through-bolt to the specified torquewrench settings, then lower and remove thejack.14 Where necessary, refit the power steeringfluid reservoir to its mounting bracket andsecure the hydraulic hose clamps in positionwith the retaining bolts.15 Refit the coolant expansion tank andtighten the mounting bolts securely. Securethe coolant hose in position with anynecessary retaining clips and reconnect thebattery negative lead.

Left-hand mounting16 Disconnect the battery negative lead thendisconnect the clutch cable.17 To improve access to the mounting,unclip the engine wiring harness and positionit clear of the mounting.18 Support the weight of the engine/gearbox

unit by using a trolley jack, with a woodenspacer to prevent damage to the gearboxcasing. Slacken and remove the two boltssecuring the gearbox bracket to the mounting(see illustration).19 Lower the engine/gearbox unit, thenremove the four bolts securing the mountingto the body and manoeuvre the mounting outof position. If required, slacken and removethe two bolts which secure the bracket to thegearbox and remove the bracket (seeillustrations).20 Although the mounting rubber is securedby two nuts to a metal outer section, the twoparts can be renewed only as a completeassembly. Check all components carefully forsigns of wear or damage and renew wherenecessary.21 On reassembly, refit the bracket to thegearbox and tighten the retaining bolts to thespecified torque setting.22 Manoeuvre the mounting into positionthen refit the retaining bolts and tighten themto the specified torque setting.23 Use the trolley jack to raise the gearbox tothe correct height, then refit the mountingbracket to mounting bolts and tighten them tothe specified torque setting. Refit the wiringharness to its retaining clip.24 Refit the clutch cable and reconnect thebattery negative lead.

Rear mounting25 Apply the handbrake then jack up the


19.19c Gearbox bracket is retained by twobolts (one arrowed)

19.19b . . . and remove mounting19.19a . . . then lower gearbox and removefour left-hand mounting-to-body bolts

(arrowed) . . .

19.12 Check rubber washers are correctlyinstalled before tightening through-bolt nut

19.18 Slacken and remove gearboxbracket-to-mounting bolts . . .

19.7b Right-hand mounting through-bolt (A), mounting-to-bracket nuts (B),

bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts(two arrowed - C)

19.7a Use trolley jack with wooden spacerto adjust height of engine/gearbox unit


front of the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands.26 Support the weight of the engine/gearboxunit by using a trolley jack, with a woodenspacer to prevent damage to the transmissioncasing. Unbolt the mounting bracket from thegearbox and the connecting link from theunderbody bracket, then remove themounting (see illustrations).27 Unscrew the through-bolt to separate theconnecting link from the bracket. Checkcarefully for signs of wear or damage, payingparticular attention to the connecting linkrubber bushes. Renew as necessary.28 Reassembly is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten all mounting bolts to thespecified torque setting.


19.26b . . . then undo connecting link-to-underbody bracket bolt and remove

mounting

19.26a Unbolt rear mounting to gearboxbolts (arrowed) . . .

2A


2B


Chapter 2 Part B Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . 18Crankshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Cylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail - cleaning

and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Cylinder liners - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Engine/gearbox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Engine/gearbox removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . 3General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Piston/connecting rod assembly - refitting and big-end bearing

running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

2B•1

Contents

SpecificationsRefer to Part A of this Chapter







54321

1 General information

Included in this part of the Chapter aredetails of removing the engine/gearbox unitfrom the vehicle and general overhaulprocedures for the cylinder head, cylinderblock/crankcase and all other engine internalcomponents.

The information given ranges from adviceconcerning preparation for an overhaul andthe purchase of replacement parts to detailedstep-by-step procedures covering removal,inspection, renovation and refitting of engineinternal components.

After Section 5, all instructions are basedon the assumption that the engine has beenremoved from the vehicle. For informationconcerning in-car engine repair, as well as the

removal and refitting of those externalcomponents necessary for full overhaul, referto Part A of this Chapter and to Section 5.Ignore any preliminary dismantling operationsdescribed in Part A that are no longer relevantonce the engine has been removed from thevehicle.

2 Engine overhaul - general information

It is not always easy to determine when, orif, an engine should be completelyoverhauled, as a number of factors must beconsidered.

High mileage is not necessarily anindication that an overhaul is needed, whilelow mileage does not preclude the need for anoverhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably

the most important consideration. An enginewhich has had regular and frequent oil andfilter changes, as well as other requiredmaintenance, should give many thousands ofmiles of reliable service. Conversely, aneglected engine may require an overhaulvery early in its life. If a complete service doesnot remedy any problems, major mechanicalwork is the only solution.

Excessive oil consumption is an indicationthat piston rings, valve seals and/or valveguides are in need of attention. Make surethat oil leaks are not responsible beforedeciding that the rings and/or guides areworn. Perform a compression test todetermine the likely cause of the problem.

Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted inplace of the oil pressure switch and compareit with that specified. If it is extremely low, themain and big-end bearings and/or the oilpump are probably worn out.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking ormetallic engine noises, excessive valve gearnoise and high fuel consumption may alsopoint to the need for an overhaul, especially ifthey are all present at the same time.

An engine overhaul involves restoring allinternal parts to the specification of a newengine. During an overhaul, the cylinder liners,the pistons and the piston rings are renewed.New main and big-end bearings are generallyfitted and, if necessary, the crankshaft may berenewed to restore the journals. The valvesare serviced as well, since they are usually inless than perfect condition at this point. Whilethe engine is being overhauled, othercomponents, such as the distributor, starterand alternator, can be overhauled as well. Theend result should be an as-new engine thatwill give many trouble-free miles.

Critical cooling system components suchas the hoses, thermostat and coolant pumpshould be renewed when an engine isoverhauled. The radiator should be checkedcarefully to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. Also it is a good idea to renew the oil pump whenever the engine isoverhauled.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, readthrough the entire procedure to familiarizeyourself with the scope and requirements ofthe job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult ifyou follow carefully all of the instructions,have the necessary tools and equipment andpay close attention to all specifications.However, it can be time-consuming. Plan onthe vehicle being off the road for a minimumof two weeks, especially if parts must betaken to an engineering works for repair orreconditioning. Check on the availability ofparts and make sure that any necessaryspecial tools and equipment are obtained inadvance. Most work can be done with typicalhand tools, although a number of precisionmeasuring tools are required for inspectingparts to determine if they must be renewed.Often the engineering works will handle theinspection of parts and offer adviceconcerning reconditioning and renewal.

Always wait until the engine has beencompletely dismantled and all components,especially the cylinder block/crankcase, thecylinder liners and the crankshaft have beeninspected before deciding what service andrepair operations must be performed by anengineering works. Since the condition ofthese components will be the major factor toconsider when determining whether tooverhaul the original engine or buy areconditioned unit, do not purchase parts orhave overhaul work done on othercomponents until they have been thoroughlyinspected. As a general rule, time is theprimary cost of an overhaul, so it does not payto fit worn or substandard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life andminimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,everything must be assembled with care in aspotlessly clean environment.

3 Engine/gearbox removal -methods and precautions

If you have decided that the engine must beremoved for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should betaken.

Locating a suitable place to work isextremely important. Adequate work space,along with storage space for the vehicle, willbe needed. If a shop or garage is notavailable, at the very least a flat, level, cleanwork surface is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment andengine/gearbox before beginning the removalprocedure will help keep things clean andorganised.

An engine hoist or A-frame will also benecessary. Make sure the equipment is ratedin excess of the combined weight of theengine and gearbox (290 lb/130 kgapproximately). Safety is of primaryimportance, considering the potential hazardsinvolved in lifting the engine/gearbox unit outof the vehicle.

If the engine/gearbox unit is being removedby a novice, a helper should be available.Advice and aid from someone moreexperienced would also be helpful. There aremany instances when one person cannotsimultaneously perform all of the operationsrequired when lifting the unit out of thevehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Beforestarting work, arrange for the hire of or obtainall of the tools and equipment you will need.Some of the equipment necessary to performengine/gearbox removal and installationsafely and with relative ease are (in addition toan engine hoist) a heavy duty trolley jack,complete sets of spanners and sockets asdescribed at the front of this Manual, wooden blocks and plenty of rags andcleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil,coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired,make sure that you arrange for it in advanceand perform all of the operations possiblewithout it beforehand. This will save youmoney and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use forquite a while. An engineering works will berequired to perform some of the work whichthe do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplishwithout special equipment. These placesoften have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consult them beforeremoving the engine in order to accuratelyestimate the amount of time required torebuild or repair components that may needwork.

Always be extremely careful when removingand refitting the engine/gearbox unit. Seriousinjury can result from careless actions. Planahead, take your time and a job of this nature,although major, can be accomplishedsuccessfully.

4 Engine/gearbox - removal and refitting 3

Note: The engine can be removed from thevehicle only as a complete unit with the gearbox.

Removal1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground thenremove the bonnet.2 If the engine is to be dismantled, drain theoil and remove the oil filter, then clean andrefit the drain plug, tightening it to its specifiedtorque setting.3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.4 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel.5 Drain the gearbox oil, then clean and refitthe drain plug, tightening it to its specifiedtorque setting.6 Drain the cooling system.7 Remove the battery, followed by the batterytray and support bracket.8 Remove the complete air cleaner assembly,including the intake duct and mountingbracket, intake hose and resonator.9 Disconnect the ignition coil HT lead fromthe distributor cap.10 Undo the nut and disconnect the batterypositive lead from the main starter motorsolenoid terminal, then carefully disconnectthe spade connector from the solenoid.11 Undo the two bolts securing the enginecompartment fusebox to the body, thendisconnect the two engine wiring harnessblock connectors from the underside of thefusebox. Undo the bolt securing the wiringharness earth lead to the bonnet platform, thendisconnect the LT wiring connector from theignition coil. On fuel-injected engines, alsodisconnect the wiring connector and vacuumpipe from the engine management ECU. Freethe engine wiring harness from any relevantclips or ties so that it is free to be removed withthe engine/gearbox unit (see illustrations).

2B•2 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

4.11a Disconnecting engine harnesswiring connectors from underside of

fusebox . . .


12 Trace the clutch cable back from theclutch release lever to the bulkhead andremove the C-clip which retains the outercable spring in position. Unhook the inner cable from the release lever and free theouter cable from its mounting bracket andposition it clear of the gearbox.13 From underneath the vehicle, pull out therubber retaining pin which secures the lowerend of the speedometer cable to the gearboxhousing. Withdraw the cable from thespeedometer drive and remove the O-ringsfrom the cable lower end. Renew the O-rings,regardless of their condition.14 In the absence of the special gearchangelinkage balljoint separator (Rover service toolnumber 18G 1592), use a suitable flat-bladedscrewdriver to carefully lever the link rodballjoints off the gearbox upper and lowerselector levers, taking care not to damage theballjoint gaiters.15 Unscrew the reverse interlock cable nutfrom the top of the gearbox housing. In theabsence of the special spanner (Rover servicetool number 18G 1591), use a close-fittingspanner to unscrew the plastic nut, notingthat it is easily damaged. Plug the gearboxorifice to prevent the entry of dirt.16 Disconnect the coolant hose from thebottom of the expansion tank, the expansiontank hose from the inlet manifold union, bothheater hoses from the heater matrix unionsand the radiator top hose from the coolantoutlet elbow. Either remove the radiatorbottom hose or secure it so that it will nothinder engine/gearbox removal.17 Slacken and remove the union bolt whichsecures the vacuum servo unit vacuum hoseto the inlet manifold. Discard the sealingwashers as they must be renewed wheneverthey are disturbed.18 On carburettor engines, disconnect thefeed hose from the fuel pump, thendisconnect the accelerator and choke cablesfrom the carburettor.19 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise thefuel system and disconnect the fuel feed andreturn hoses from the throttle body/fuel rail.Disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle housing.

20 Remove the expansion tank mountingbolts and position the tank clear of the engineunit.21 Remove the alternator.22 On models equipped with power-assistedsteering, remove the power steering pump.23 On models equipped with airconditioning, slacken and remove the twocompressor heatshield retaining bolts thenremove the heatshield and disconnect thecompressor wiring connector. Undo the fourbolts securing the compressor to themounting bracket and the single bolt securingthe air conditioning pipe to the mountingbracket. Position the compressor clear of theengine unit. Secure it to the body to avoidplacing any strain on the air conditioningpipes and hoses.24 Disconnect the exhaust system front pipefrom the manifold and, where necessary,disconnect the lambda sensor wiringconnector.25 Slacken and remove the bolt and washersecuring the anti-roll bar connecting link tothe left-hand lower suspension arm, then thetwo bolts securing the tie bar to the lowersuspension arm.26 Extract the split pins and undo the nutssecuring the steering gear track rod endballjoint and the left-hand lower suspensionarm balljoint to the swivel hub. Remove thenuts and release the balljoint tapered shanksusing a universal balljoint separator.

27 Insert a suitable flat bar in between theleft-hand inner constant velocity joint andgearbox housing, then carefully lever the jointout of position, whilst taking great care not todamage the gearbox housing.28 Withdraw the left-hand inner constantvelocity joint from the gearbox and supportthe driveshaft to avoid damaging the constantvelocity joints or gaiters. Repeat theoperations described in paragraphs 25 to 28for the right-hand driveshaft.29 On K8 engines, the cylinder head has atapped hole provided at the right-hand rearend (above the dipstick tube) and at the left-hand front end (behind the spark plug leadclips). On K16 engine cylinder heads, theright-hand end hole is in the same place but atthe left-hand end, the air intake duct supportbracket mounting points must be used.Attach lifting brackets to the engine at thesepoints (see illustrations). Take the weight ofthe engine/gearbox unit on the engine hoist.30 From underneath the vehicle, unscrew thetwo bolts securing the rear engine/gearboxmounting bracket to the gearbox, thenslacken the connecting link-to-body through-bolt and pivot the mounting away from thegearbox.31 Slacken and remove the two boltssecuring the left-hand gearbox bracket to themounting. Lower the gearbox slightly thenundo the four bolts securing the mounting tothe body and manoeuvre the mounting out ofposition.32 Raise the gearbox again then slacken andremove the right-hand engine/gearboxmounting through-bolt and nut. Unscrew thetwo nuts securing the mounting to the enginebracket and remove it, noting the rubberwashers which are fitted on each side of thebracket.33 Make a final check that all componentshave been removed or disconnected that willprevent removal of the engine/gearbox unitfrom the vehicle and ensure that componentssuch as the gearchange linkage link rods aresecured so that they cannot be damaged onremoval.34 Lift the engine/gearbox unit out of thevehicle, ensuring that nothing is trapped ordamaged. Once the unit is high enough, lift it

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•3

4.11c Disconnecting vacuum pipe fromengine management ECU - fuel-injected

engines

4.29b . . . and left-hand engine liftingbracket - K16 engine

4.29a Right-hand engine lifting bracket . . .

4.11b . . . and ignition coil LT wiringconnector

2B


out over the front of the body and lower theunit to the ground (see illustration).35 To separate the engine and gearbox, firstremove the starter motor.36 Unbolt the flywheel front, lower and rearcover plates, then unscrew the four boltssecuring the gearbox to the engine and gentlyprise the gearbox off the two locating dowels(at the front and rear of the main bearingladder). Move the gearbox squarely awayfrom the engine, ensuring that the clutchcomponents are not damaged.37 If the engine is to be overhauled, removethe clutch.

Refitting38 Refitting is the reverse of removal,following where necessary the instructionsgiven in the other Chapters of this Manual.Note the following additional points:a) Overhaul and lubricate the clutch

components before refitting.b) When the gearbox, starter motor and

flywheel cover plates have been refitted,lift the engine/gearbox unit and lower itinto the engine compartment so that it isslightly tilted (gearbox down). Engageboth driveshafts then return the unit to thehorizontal and refit the engine/gearboxmountings.

c) Remove the lifting brackets and refit anycomponents removed to enable them tobe fitted.

d) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque wrench settings.

e) Adjust the choke and/or acceleratorcable(s).

f) Refill the engine and gearbox with oil.g) Refill the cooling system.

5 Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence

Note: When removing external componentsfrom the engine, pay close attention to detailsthat may be helpful or important duringrefitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets,seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts and othersmall items.1 It is much easier to work on the engine if itis mounted on a portable engine stand. Thesestands can often be hired from a tool hireshop. Before the engine is mounted on astand, the flywheel should be removed so thatthe stand bolts can be tightened into the endof the cylinder block/crankcase (not the mainbearing ladder).2 If a stand is not available, it is possible todismantle the engine with it blocked up on asturdy workbench or on the floor. Be extracareful not to tip or drop the engine whenworking without a stand.3 If you are going to obtain a reconditionedengine, all external components must beremoved for transference to the replacementengine (just as if you are doing a complete

engine overhaul yourself). These componentsinclude the following:a) Alternator mounting brackets.b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor brackets (where fitted).c) Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs.d) Thermostat and housing, coolant rail,

coolant outlet elbow.e) Dipstick tube.f) Carburettor/fuel injection system

components.g) All electrical switches and sensors.h) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.i) Oil filter.j) Fuel pump.k) Engine mountings.l) Flywheel.4 If you are obtaining a short motor (whichconsists of the engine cylinder block/crankcaseand main bearing ladder, crankshaft, pistonsand connecting rods all assembled), then thecylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing beltwill have to be removed also.5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, theengine can be dismantled and the internalcomponents removed in the following order:a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.b) Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and

timing belt inner cover.c) Cylinder head.d) Flywheel.e) Sump.f) Oil pump.g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.h) Crankshaft.

6 Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you haveall of the correct tools necessary. Refer to theintroductory pages at the beginning of thisManual for further information.

6 Cylinder head - dismantling 3Note: New and reconditioned cylinder headsare available from the manufacturer and fromengine overhaul specialists. Due to the factthat some specialist tools are required fordismantling and inspection, and newcomponents may not be readily available, itmay be more practical and economical for thehome mechanic to purchase a reconditionedhead rather than dismantle, inspect andrecondition the original.1 Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulictappets.2 Remove the cylinder head.3 Using a valve spring compressor, compresseach valve spring in turn until the split colletscan be removed. Release the compressor andlift off the spring retainer and spring, then usea pair of pliers to extract the spring bottomseat/stem seal (see illustrations).

4 Withdraw the valve through the combustionchamber.5 It is essential that each valve is storedtogether with its collets, retainer and spring,and that all valves are kept in their correctsequence, unless they are so badly worn thatthey are to be renewed. If they are going to bekept and used again, place each valveassembly in a labelled polythene bag or


6.3b Extracting a valve spring bottomseat/stem seal

6.3a Using a valve spring compressor torelease split collets

4.34 Lifting out engine/gearbox unit


If, when the valve springcompressor is screweddown, the spring retainerrefuses to free and expose

the split collets, gently tap the top ofthe tool directly over the retainer with alight hammer. This will free theretainer.

similar small container (see illustration). Notethat No 1 valve is nearest to the timing beltend of the engine.

7 Cylinder head and valves -cleaning and inspection 4

Note: If the engine has been severelyoverheated, it is best to assume that thecylinder head is warped and to check carefullyfor signs of this.Note: Be sure to perform all the followinginspection procedures before concluding thatthe services of a machine shop or engineoverhaul specialist are required. Make a list ofall items that require attention.1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head andvalve components, followed by a detailedinspection, will enable you to decide howmuch valve service work must be carried outduring the engine overhaul.

Cleaning2 Scrape away all traces of old gasketmaterial and sealing compound from thecylinder head.3 Scrape away all carbon from thecombustion chambers and ports, then washthe cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or asuitable solvent.4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits thatmay have formed on the valves, then use apower-operated wire brush to removedeposits from the valve heads and stems.

InspectionCylinder head5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,evidence of coolant leakage and otherdamage. If cracks are found, a new cylinderhead should be obtained.6 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge bladeto check that the cylinder head surface is notdistorted (see illustrations). If it is, it may bepossible to resurface it, provided that thespecified reface limit is not exceeded in sodoing, or that the cylinder head is not reducedto less than the specified height.7 Examine the valve seats in each of thecombustion chambers. If they are severely

pitted, cracked or burned, then they will needto be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaulspecialist. If they are only slightly pitted, thiscan be removed by grinding-in the valveheads and seats with fine valve-grindingcompound as described below. To check forexcessive wear, refit each valve and measurethe installed height of the stem tip above thecylinder head upper surface (see illustration).If the measurement is above the specifiedlimit, repeat the test using a new valve. If themeasurement is still excessive, renew the seatinsert.8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by aside to side motion of the valve, new guidesmust be fitted. Measure the diameter of theexisting valve stems (see below) and the boreof the guides, then calculate the clearanceand compare the result with the specifiedvalue. If the clearance is excessive, renew thevalves or guides as necessary.9 Valve guide renewal is best carried out byan engine overhaul specialist. If the work is tobe carried out at home, then use a stepped,double-diameter drift to drive out the wornguide towards the combustion chamber. Onfitting the new guide, place it first in a deep-freeze for one hour, then drive it into thecylinder head bore from the camshaft sideuntil it projects the specified amount abovethe spring bottom seat/stem seal surface.

10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, thismust be done only after the guides have beenrenewed.

Valves11 Examine the head of each valve forpitting, burning, cracks and general wear,then check the valve stem for scoring andwear ridges. Rotate the valve and check forany obvious indication that it is bent. Look forpits and excessive wear on the tip of eachvalve stem. Renew any valve that shows anysuch signs of wear or damage.12 If the valve appears satisfactory at thisstage, measure the valve stem diameter atseveral points by using a micrometer (seeillustration). Any significant difference in thereadings obtained indicates wear of the valvestem. Should any of these conditions beapparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.13 If the valves are in satisfactory conditionthey should be ground (lapped) into theirrespective seats to ensure a smooth gas-tightseal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it hasbeen re-cut, fine grinding compound onlyshould be used to produce the required finish.Coarse valve-grinding compound should notbe used unless a seat is badly burned ordeeply pitted. If this is the case, the cylinderhead and valves should be inspected by anexpert to decide whether seat re-cutting or


7.6a Checking a cylinder head gasketsurface for warpage

6.5 Use a labelled plastic bag to keeptogether and identify valve components

7.12 Measuring valve stem diameter7.7 Check valve seat wear by measuringvalve stem installed height (A)

7.6b Check cylinder head gasket surfacefor warpage along paths shown

A K16 engine B K8 engine

2B


even the renewal of the valve or seat insert isrequired.14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.Place the cylinder head upside down on abench.15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of)valve-grinding compound on the seat face andpress a suction grinding tool onto the valvehead. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valvehead to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally toredistribute the grinding compound (seeillustration). A light spring placed under thevalve head will greatly ease this operation.16 If coarse grinding compound is beingused, work only until a dull, matt even surfaceis produced on both the valve seat and thevalve, then wipe off the used compound andrepeat the process with fine compound. Whena smooth unbroken ring of light grey mattfinish is produced on both the valve and seat,the grinding operation is complete. Do notgrind in the valves any further than absolutelynecessary, or the seat will be prematurelysunk into the cylinder head.17 To check that the seat has not been over-ground, measure the valve stem installedheight, as described in paragraph 7.18 When all the valves have been ground-in,carefully wash off all traces of grindingcompound using paraffin or a suitable solvent.

Valve components19 Examine the valve springs for signs of

damage and discoloration and also measuretheir free length using vernier calipers or bycomparing each existing spring with a newcomponent (see illustration).20 Stand each spring on a flat surface andcheck it for squareness. If any of the springsare damaged, distorted or have lost theirtension, then obtain a complete new set ofsprings.21 Check the hydraulic tappets as describedin Part A of this Chapter.

8 Cylinder head - reassembly 41 Lubricate the valve stems with clean engineoil and insert each valve into its originallocation. If new valves are being fitted, insertthem into the locations to which they havebeen ground.2 Working on the first valve, dip the springbottom seat/stem seal in clean engine oil thencarefully locate it over the valve and onto theguide. Take care not to damage the seal as itis passed over the valve stem. Use a suitablesocket or metal tube to press the seal firmlyonto the guide (see illustration).3 Locate the spring on the seat, followed bythe spring retainer.4 Compress the valve spring and locate thesplit collets in the recess in the valve stem.

Use a little grease to hold the collets in place.Release the compressor, then repeat theprocedure on the remaining valves.5 With all the valves installed, place thecylinder head flat on the bench and, using ahammer and interposed block of wood, tapthe end of each valve stem to settle thecomponents.6 Refit the hydraulic tappets and camshaft(s)as described in Part A of this Chapter.

9 Piston/connecting rodassembly - removal 4

Note: Due to the design of the engine, it willbecome very difficult, almost impossible, toturn the crankshaft once the cylinder headbolts have been slackened. The manufactureraccordingly states that the crankshaft will be‘tight’ and should not be rotated more thanabsolutely necessary once the head has beenremoved. If the crankshaft cannot be rotated,then it must be removed for overhaul work toproceed. With this in mind, during anyservicing or overhaul work the crankshaft mustalways be rotated to the desired positionbefore the bolts are disturbed.

Removal - without removingcrankshaft1 Remove the timing belt, the camshaftsprocket(s) and tensioner, and the timing beltinner cover.2 Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulictappets, being careful to store the hydraulictappets correctly.3 If the flywheel has been removed,temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley andapply a spanner to the bolt to rotate thecrankshaft.4 Rotate the crankshaft until Nos 1 and 4cylinder pistons are at the top of their stroke.5 Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaftcannot now be rotated.6 Slacken and remove the two dipstick tuberetaining bolts and remove the tube from thecylinder block/crankcase (see illustrations).

9.6a Dipstick tube mounting bolts(arrowed)


8.2 Using a socket to install valve stemseal

7.19 Measuring valve spring free length7.15 Grinding-in a valve seat


7 Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pumppick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discardthe sealing ring (see illustration).8 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and removethe oil rail (see illustration).9 Using a hammer and centre punch, paint orsimilar, mark each connecting rod big-endbearing cap with its respective cylindernumber on the flat, machined surfaceprovided. If the engine has been dismantledbefore, note carefully any identifying marksmade previously (see illustration). Note thatNo 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of theengine.10 Unscrew and remove the big-end bearingcap bolts and withdraw the cap, completewith bearing shell, from the connecting rod. Ifonly the bearing shells are being attended to,


9.7 Removing oil pump pick-up/strainerpipe from oil rail - renew O-ring (arrowed)

9.6b Engine bottom end components

1 Oil pump2 Gasket3 Bolt4 Bolt5 Oil seal6 Engine oil level dipstick7 Dipstick tube8 Bolt9 Bolt

10 Gasket11 Coolant pump12 O-ring13 Pillar bolt14 Bolt15 Dowel pin16 O-ring17 Thermostat housing18 Gasket19 Thermostat20 Thermostat housing21 Bolt22 Coolant hose23 Hose clip24 Coolant rail25 Screw26 Cooling system bleed

screw

27 Sealing washer28 Liner29 O-rings30 Cylinder block/crankcase31 Dowel32 Top compression ring33 Second compression

ring34 Oil control ring35 Piston36 Gudgeon pin *37 Connecting rod38 Big-end bearing shell39 Big-end bearing cap40 Big-end bearing cap bolt41 Crankshaft42 Crankshaft thrustwasher43 Crankshaft main bearing

shell44 Dowel45 Oil seal46 Flywheel (with reluctor

ring)47 Flywheel bolt48 Main bearing ladder *49 Bolt50 Dowel

51 Stud52 Oil rail53 Bolt54 Nut55 O-ring56 Oil pump pick-up/

strainer pipe57 Bolt58 Sump59 Gasket60 Bolt61 Engine oil drain plug62 Sealing washer63 Oil filter64 Oil filter adaptor65 Bolt66 Gasket67 Oil pressure switch68 Blanking plate -

carburettor engines69 Screw

* Note: Main bearing ladder issupplied only with cylinderblock/crankcase assembly.Gudgeon pin is supplied onlywith piston assembly

9.8 Removing oil rail to reach big-endbearings

9.9 Mark big-end bearing caps beforeremoval - No 4 cylinder cap shown

2B


push the connecting rod up and off thecrankpin, ensuring that the connecting rodbig-ends do not mark the cylinder bore walls,then remove the upper bearing shell. Keep thecap, bolts and (if they are to be refitted) thebearing shells together in their correctsequence.11 With Nos 2 and 3 cylinder big-endsdisconnected, repeat the procedure(exercising great care to prevent damage toany of the components) to remove Nos 1 and4 cylinder bearing caps.12 Remove the ridge of carbon from the topof each cylinder bore. Push eachpiston/connecting rod assembly up andremove it from the top of the bore, and ensurethat the connecting rod big-ends do not markthe cylinder bore walls. 13 Note that the number stamped by you oneach bearing cap should match the cylindernumber stamped on the front (alternatorbracket side) of each connecting rod. If anyconnecting rod number does not match itscorrect cylinder, mark or label it immediatelyso that each piston/connecting rod assemblycan be refitted to its original bore.

Removal - alternative methods14 If the engine is being completelydismantled and the cylinder head has beenremoved, either unbolt the main bearingladder so that the crankshaft can be rotatedwith care, or remove the crankshaftcompletely and then remove the connectingrods and pistons.

Cylinder head bolts - conditioncheck15 Check the condition of the cylinder head

bolts and particularly their threads wheneverthey are removed. If the cylinder head only isremoved, check the bolts as described in Part A of this Chapter. If the cylinder head and the oil rail are removed, check asfollows.16 Keeping all the bolts in their correct fittedorder, wash them and wipe dry, then checkeach for any sign of visible wear or damage.Renew any bolt if necessary. Lightly oil thethreads of each bolt, carefully enter it into theoriginal hole and screw it in, by hand only untilfinger-tight. If the full length of thread isengaged, the bolt may be re-used. If the full length of thread is not engaged, measurethe distance from the oil rail gasket surface tounder the bolt head (see illustration).17 If the distance measured is less than 378mm, then the bolt may be re-used. If thedistance measured is more than 378 mm, thebolt must be renewed. Considering the taskthese bolts perform and the pressures theymust withstand, owners should considerrenewing all the bolts as a matched set ifmore than one of the originals fail inspectionor are close to the limit set.18 Note that if any of the cylinder head boltthreads in the oil rail are found to bedamaged, then the oil rail must be renewed.Thread inserts are not an acceptable repair inthis instance.

10 Crankshaft - removal 4Note: The following procedure assumes thatthe crankshaft alone is being removed andtherefore uses a slightly different sequence ofoperations to that given in Section 9.Depending on the reason for dismantling,either sequence may be adapted asnecessary. If the crankshaft endfloat is to bechecked, this must be done when thecrankshaft is free to move. If a dial gauge is tobe used, check after paragraph 1, but if feelergauges are to be used, check after para-graph 9.1 Remove the timing belt, sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the timing belt inner cover.2 Slacken and remove the two dipstick tuberetaining bolts and remove it from the cylinderblock/crankcase.3 Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaftcannot now be rotated.4 Remove the oil pump.5 Remove the crankshaft left-hand oil seal.6 Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pumppick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discardthe sealing ring.7 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and removethe oil rail.8 Working in the sequence shown (seeillustration), progressively unscrew the mainbearing ladder retaining bolts by a turn at atime, then withdraw the ladder. Note the twolocating dowels and the main bearing shells,which should be removed from the ladder andstored in their correct fitted order (seeillustration).9 Mark the big-end bearing caps, thenunscrew and remove the big-end bearing capbolts and withdraw the cap, complete with thelower bearing shell, from each of the fourconnecting rods (see illustration). Push the connecting rods up and off theircrankpins, then remove the upper bearingshell. Keep the cap, bolts and (if they are to berefitted) the bearing shells together in theircorrect sequence.


10.9 Removing No 1 cylinder big-endbearing cap and lower bearing shell

10.8b Removing main bearing ladder (twolocating dowels arrowed)

10.8a Crankshaft main bearing ladder boltslackening sequence

A Bolts hidden in ladder flangesB Location of single longer bolt

9.16 Checking length of cylinder headbolts


Fit the bearing cap, shellsand bolts to each removedpiston/connecting rodassembly, so that they areall kept together as amatched set.

10 Remove the crankshaft (see illustration).11 Withdraw the two thrustwashers from theNo 3 main bearing upper location. Noting theposition of the grooved shells, remove theupper main bearing shells, which must bekept with their correct respective partnersfrom the main bearing ladder so that all shellscan be identified and (if necessary) refitted intheir original locations.12 Check the condition of the cylinder headbolts, as described in Section 9.

11 Cylinder block/crankcase -cleaning and inspection 4

Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!

Note: During any cleaning operations, takecare not to score the mating surfaces of thecylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder andoil rail. It may be necessary to use a foamaction gasket remover.

Cleaning1 For complete cleaning, remove the cylinderliners, all external components and allelectrical switches/sensors.2 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinderblock/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail,taking care not to damage the gasket/sealingsurfaces.3 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).The plugs are usually very tight and may haveto be drilled out and the holes re-tapped. Usenew plugs when the engine is reassembled.4 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, allshould be steam cleaned.5 After the castings are returned, clean all oilholes and oil galleries one more time. Flush allinternal passages with warm water until thewater runs clear, then dry thoroughly andapply a light film of oil to all liner surfaces toprevent rusting. If you have access tocompressed air, use it to speed up the dryingprocess and to blow out all the oil holes andgalleries.6 If the castings are not very dirty, you can doan adequate cleaning job with hot soapywater and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time

and do a thorough job. Regardless of thecleaning method used, be sure to clean all oilholes and galleries very thoroughly and to dryall components well. Protect the liners asdescribed above to prevent rusting.7 All threaded holes must be clean to ensureaccurate torque readings during reassembly.To clean all threads except those of theflywheel retaining bolts, run the proper sizetap into each of the holes to remove rust,corrosion, thread sealant or sludge and torestore damaged threads. If possible, usecompressed air to clear the holes of debrisproduced by this operation. A goodalternative is to inject aerosol-applied water-dispersant lubricant into each hole, using thelong spout usually supplied. Always wear eyeprotection when cleaning out holes in thisway. The flywheel retaining bolt threads mustbe cleaned by using the procedure describedin Section 18, in Part A of this Chapter. Now isa good time to check the condition of thecylinder head bolts.8 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil galleryplugs and insert them into the holes in theblock. Tighten them securely.9 If the engine is not going to be reassembledright away, cover it with a large plastic bag tokeep it clean. Protect the liners as describedabove to prevent rusting.

Inspection10 Inspect all castings for cracks andcorrosion. Look for stripped threads. If therehas been any history of internal coolantleakage, it may be worthwhile having anengine overhaul specialist check the cylinderblock/crankcase with special equipment. Ifdefects are found, have them repaired, ifpossible, or renew the assembly.11 Check the bore of each cylinder liner forscuffing and scoring.12 Measure the diameter of each cylinderliner bore 60 mm from the top of the bore,both parallel to the crankshaft axis and at rightangles to it.13 Compare the diameter with that specified.If any measurement exceeds the service limitthen the liner must be renewed.14 Measure the piston diameter at rightangles to the gudgeon pin axis, 16 mm upfrom the bottom of the skirt. Compare theresults with those specified.15 To measure the piston-to-bore clearance,either measure the bore and piston skirt asdescribed above and subtract the skirtdiameter from the bore measurement, orinsert each piston into the original bore, selecta feeler gauge and slip it into the bore alongwith the piston. The piston must be alignedexactly in its normal attitude and the feelergauge must be between the piston and boreon one of the thrust faces, 20 mm up from thebottom of the bore.16 If the clearance is excessive, then a newpiston will be required. If the piston binds at the lower end of the bore and is loosetowards the top, then the bore is tapered. If

tight spots are encountered as thepiston/feeler gauge is rotated in the bore, thenthe bore is out-of-round.17 Repeat this procedure for the remainingpistons and cylinder liners.18 If the cylinder liner walls are badly scuffedor scored, or if they are excessively worn, out-of-round or tapered, obtain new cylinderliners. New pistons will also be required.19 If the bores are in reasonably goodcondition and not worn to the specified limits,and if the piston-to-bore clearances can bemaintained properly, then it may only benecessary to renew the piston rings.20 If this is the case, the bores should behoned to allow the new rings to bed incorrectly and provide the best possible seal.The conventional type of hone has spring-loaded stones and is used with a power drill.You will also need some paraffin, or honingoil, and rags. The hone should be moved upand down the bore to produce a crosshatchpattern and plenty of honing oil should beused. Ideally the crosshatch lines shouldintersect at approximately a 60° angle. Do nottake off more material than is necessary toproduce the required finish. If new pistons arebeing fitted, the piston manufacturers mayspecify a finish with a different angle, so theirinstructions should be followed. Do notwithdraw the hone from the bore while it is stillbeing turned, but stop it first. After honing abore, wipe out all traces of the honing oil. Ifequipment of this type is not available, or ifyou are not sure whether you are competentto undertake the task yourself, an engineoverhaul specialist will carry out the work atmoderate cost.

12 Cylinder liners - removal and refitting

Removal1 Invert the cylinder block/crankcase andsupport it on blocks of wood, then use a hardwood drift to tap out each liner from thecrankshaft side. When all the liners arereleased, tip the cylinder block/crankcase onits side and remove each liner from thecylinder head side. Discard the two sealingrings from the base of each. If the liners are tobe re-used, mark each one by stickingmasking tape on its right-hand (timing belt)face and writing the cylinder number on thetape.

Refitting2 To install the liners, thoroughly clean theliner mating surfaces in the cylinderblock/crankcase and use fine abrasive paperto polish away any burrs or sharp edgeswhich might damage the liner sealing rings.Clean the liners and wipe dry, then fit newsealing rings to the two grooves at the base ofeach liner and apply a thin film of oil to the


10.10 Removing the crankshaft

2B


rings and to the liner surface on each side ofthe rings (see illustration).3 If the original liners are being refitted, usethe marks made on removal to ensure thateach is refitted the same way round into itsoriginal bore. Insert each liner into the cylinderblock/crankcase, taking great care not todisplace or damage the sealing rings, andpress it home as far as possible by hand.Using a hammer and a block of wood, tapeach liner lightly but fully onto its locatingshoulder (see illustration). Wipe clean, thenlightly oil all exposed liner surfaces to preventrusting.

13 Piston/connecting rodassembly - inspection 3

1 Examine all pistons for ovality, scoring andscratches, and for wear of the piston ringgrooves. Use a micrometer to measure thepistons (see illustration).2 If the pistons or connecting rods are to berenewed, it is necessary to have this workcarried out by a Rover dealer or suitableengine overhaul specialist who will have thenecessary tooling to remove and install thegudgeon pins.3 If new rings are to be fitted to the originalpistons, expand the old rings over the top ofthe pistons. The use of two or three old feelergauge blades will be helpful in preventing the

rings dropping into empty grooves (seeillustration).4 When the original piston rings have beenremoved, ensure that the ring grooves in thepiston are free of carbon by cleaning themwith a ring cleaning tool or an old ring. Break aring in half to do this.5 When measuring new rings, lay out eachpiston set with a piston/connecting rodassembly and keep them together as amatched set from now on.6 Check the ring-to-groove clearance byinserting each ring from the outside togetherwith a feeler gauge blade between the ring’stop surface and the piston land. Check thering end gaps by inserting each ring into thecylinder bore and pushing it in with the pistoncrown to ensure that it is square in the bore,20 mm from the top. Use feeler gauges tomeasure the gap (see illustrations).7 If the end gap of a new ring is found to betoo large or too small, double-check to ensurethat you have the correct rings. If the end gapis still too small, it must be opened up bycareful filing of the ring ends using a fine file. Ifit is too large, this is not as serious unless thespecified service limit is exceeded, in whichcase very careful checking is required of thedimensions of all components as well as ofthe new parts.8 Note that each piston should be consideredas being matched to its respective liner andthey must not be interchanged.

14 Crankshaft - inspection 3Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air! Besure to clean oil holes with apipe cleaner or similar probe.

Checking endfloat1 If crankshaft endfloat is to be checked, thismust be done when the crankshaft is stillinstalled in the cylinder block/crankcase but isfree to move.2 Check endfloat by using a dial gauge incontact with the end of the crankshaft. Pushthe crankshaft fully one way and then zero thegauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other wayand check the endfloat. The result can becompared with the specified amount and willgive an indication as to whether newthrustwashers are required.3 If a dial gauge is not available, feelergauges can be used. First push the crankshaftfully towards the flywheel end of the engine,then use feeler gauges to measure the gapbetween the web of No 3 crankpin and thethrustwasher.

Inspection4 Clean the crankshaft and dry it withcompressed air, if available.5 Check the main and crankpin (big-end)


13.5b Measuring piston ring end gap13.5a Measuring piston ring-to-grooveclearance

13.3 Removing piston rings with feelerblades

13.1 Measuring piston diameter12.3 Tap liner onto locating shoulder -ensuring O-rings are not displaced

12.2 Renew liner O-rings


bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,pitting and cracking.6 Rub a penny across each journal severaltimes. If a journal picks up copper from thepenny, it is too rough (see illustration).7 Remove any burrs from the crankshaft oilholes with a stone, file or scraper.8 Using a micrometer, measure the diameterof the main bearing and crankpin (big-end)journals and compare the results with thosespecified (see illustration). Check carefullythat each journal’s diameter is within thetolerances of the size grade corresponding tothe code number on the crankshaft right-handweb (main bearing) or indicated by the codeletter on the left-hand web (crankpin/big-endbearing). If any diameter measured isincorrect for the grade indicated, re-check themeasurement carefully. If the journal is fit forfurther service, the correct grade code shouldbe substituted when selecting new bearingshells.9 By measuring the diameter at a number ofpoints around each journal’s circumference,

you will be able to determine whether or notthe journal is out-of-round. Take themeasurement at each end of the journal (nearthe webs) to determine if the journal istapered.10 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond thelimits specified, the crankshaft must berenewed unless an engine overhaul specialist can be found who will regrind it andsupply the necessary undersize bearingshells.11 Check the oil seal journals at each end ofthe crankshaft for wear and damage. If eitherseal has worn an excessive groove in itsjournal, consult an engine overhaul specialistwho will be able to advise whether a repair ispossible or whether a new crankshaft isnecessary.

15 Main and big-end bearings -inspection 3

1 Even though the main and big-end bearingsshould be renewed during the engineoverhaul, the old bearings should be retainedfor close examination, as they may revealvaluable information about the condition ofthe engine. The bearing shells are graded bythickness, the grade of each shell being indicated by the colour code marked onit.2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack oflubrication, the presence of dirt or otherforeign particles, overloading the engine andcorrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearingfailure, it must be corrected before the engineis reassembled to prevent it from happeningagain (see illustration).3 When examining the bearing shells, removethem from the cylinder block/crankcase, themain bearing ladder, the connecting rods andthe connecting rod big-end bearing caps,then lay them out on a clean surface in thesame general position as their location in theengine. This will enable you to match anybearing problems with the correspondingcrankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s

bearing surface with your fingers whilechecking it, or the delicate surface may bescratched.4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into theengine in a variety of ways. It may be left inthe engine during assembly, or it may passthrough filters or the crankcase ventilationsystem. It may get into the oil and from thereinto the bearings. Metal chips from machiningoperations and normal engine wear are oftenpresent. Abrasives are sometimes left inengine components after reconditioning,especially when parts are not thoroughlycleaned by using the proper cleaningmethods. Whatever the source, these foreignobjects often end up embedded in the softbearing material and are easily recognized.Large particles will not embed in the bearingbut will score or gouge the bearing andjournal. The best prevention for this cause ofbearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughlyand keep everything spotlessly clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are alsorecommended.5 Lack of lubrication (or lubricationbreakdown) has a number of interrelatedcauses. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (fromexcessive bearing clearances, worn oil pumpor high engine speeds) all contribute tolubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,which usually are the result of misaligned oilholes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve abearing and destroy it. When lack oflubrication is the cause of bearing failure, thebearing material is wiped or extruded from thesteel backing of the bearing. Temperaturesmay increase to the point where the steelbacking turns blue from overheating.6 Driving habits can have a definite effect onbearing life. Full throttle, low speed operation(labouring the engine) puts very high loads onbearings, which tends to squeeze out the oilfilm. These loads cause the bearings to flex,which produces fine cracks in the bearingface (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearingmaterial will loosen in pieces and tear awayfrom the steel backing. Short-distance drivingleads to corrosion of bearings becauseinsufficient engine heat is produced to driveoff the condensed water and corrosive gases.These products collect in the engine oil,forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carriedto the engine bearings, the acid attacks andcorrodes the bearing material.7 Incorrect bearing installation during engineassembly will lead to bearing failure as well.Tight fitting bearings leave insufficient bearingrunning clearance and will result in oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trappedbehind a bearing shell result in high spots onthe bearing which lead to failure. Do not touchany shell’s bearing surface with your fingersduring reassembly as there is a risk ofscratching the delicate surface or ofdepositing particles of dirt on it.


15.2 Typical bearing shell failures

14.8 Measuring crankshaft journaldiameter

14.6 Using a penny to check crankshaftjournal condition

2B


16 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that allnew parts have been obtained and that allnecessary tools are available. Read throughthe entire procedure to familiarise yourselfwith the work involved and to ensure that allitems necessary for reassembly of the engineare at hand. In addition to all normal tools andmaterials, it will be necessary to obtain theRover sealant kit LVV 10002. Carefully readthe instructions supplied with the sealant kitand take care not to allow the sealant tocontact the fingers, as it will bond skin.2 In order to save time and avoid problems,engine reassembly can be carried out in thefollowing order:a) Crankshaft.b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.c) Oil pump.d) Sump.e) Flywheel.f) Cylinder head.g) Timing belt inner cover, tensioner and

sprockets, and timing belt.h) Engine external components.3 At this stage, all engine components shouldbe absolutely clean and dry, with all faults

repaired, and should be laid out (or inindividual containers) on a completely cleanwork surface.

17 Piston rings - refitting 31 Refer to Section 13 for inspection details.2 Once all rings have been checked, they canbe installed. Ensure that each ring is refittedonly to its matched piston and bore.3 Install the new rings by fitting them over thetop of the piston, starting with the oil controlring spring. Note that all rings must be fittedwith the word TOP uppermost (seeillustration).4 With all the rings in position, space the ringgaps as shown (see illustration), noting thatthe FRONT marking shown is usually in factan arrow mark on the piston crown andindicates the timing belt end of the engine.

18 Crankshaft - refitting andmain bearing runningclearance check

4Selection of bearing shells1 The main bearing running clearance iscontrolled in production by selecting one ofthree grades of bearing shell. The grades areindicated by a colour-coding marked on theedge of each shell which governs the shell’sthickness, as follows:a) Green - Thin.b) Blue - Intermediate.c) Red - Thick.

2 If shells of differing grades are to be fittedto the same journal, the thicker shell mustalways be fitted to the main bearing ladderlocation. Bear this carefully in mind whenordering replacement shells for Nos 2, 3 and 4bearings.3 If the bearing shells are to be renewed, firstcheck and record the main bearing codeletters stamped on the right-hand front face ofthe main bearing ladder (see illustration). Theletters are read with the ladder inverted, No 1bearing’s code letter then being at the top andthe remainder following in order from theengine’s timing belt end.4 Secondly, check and record the crankshaftjournal code numbers stamped on thecrankshaft’s right-hand web, No 1 journal’scode number being the first. If the originalcrankshaft is to be re-used, the size grade canbe checked by direct measurement, asdescribed in Section 14.5 Note that if the crankshaft is found to beexcessively worn, then it must be renewedand the code numbers of the new componentmust be used instead to select a new set ofbearing shells.6 Matching the codes noted to the followingtable, select a new set of bearing shells.

Ladder code Crankshaft letter code number ShellsA 1 Blue, BlueA 2 Red, BlueA 3 Red, RedB 1 Blue, GreenB 2 Blue, BlueB 3 Red, BlueC 1 Green, GreenC 2 Blue, GreenC 3 Blue, Blue


18.3 Crankshaft main bearing size code locations

17.4 Piston ring end gap locations

A Top compression ringB Second compression ringC Oil control ringD Oil control ring spring

17.3 Piston ring fitting details and topsurface markings


Main bearing running clearancecheck7 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and the bearing locations in both the cylinder block/crankcase and the mainbearing ladder.8 Press the bearing shells into their locations,ensuring that the tab on each shell engages inthe notch in the cylinder block/crankcase ormain bearing ladder location. Take care not totouch any shell bearing surface with yourfingers.9 Press the bearing shells with the oil groovesinto the upper locations (in the cylinderblock/crankcase). Note the following points(see illustration):a) On all engines, grooved bearing shells are

fitted to Nos 2, 3 and 4 upper bearinglocations. Note the central locating tabsof the grooved shells.

b) On early engines, grooved bearing shellswere fitted only to Nos 2 and 4 upperbearing locations at the factory. Onreassembly of one of these units, agrooved shell must be fitted at No 3upper bearing location as well, instead ofthe plain item originally used. Note,however, that this will require a groovedshell with an offset locating tab instead ofthe central tab that is used on all othergrooved shells. See your Rover dealer fordetails.

c) If bearing shells of differing grades are tobe fitted to the same journal, the thickershell must always be fitted to the mainbearing ladder location (see paragraph 1).

d) On all engines, if the original main bearingshells are being re-used, these must berefitted to their original locations in thecylinder block/crankcase and mainbearing ladder.

10 The main bearing running clearanceshould be checked if there is any doubt aboutthe amount of crankshaft wear that has takenplace, if the crankshaft has been regroundand is to be refitted with non-Roverundersized bearing shells, or if non-genuine

bearing shells are to be fitted. If the originalcrankshaft or a Rover replacement part is tobe installed, the shell selection proceduregiven above will produce the correctclearances and a further check will not benecessary. If the clearance is to be checked, itcan be done in either of two ways.11 The first method (which will be difficult toachieve without a range of internalmicrometers or internal/external expandingcalipers) is to refit the main bearing ladder tothe cylinder block/crankcase, with bearingshells in place. With the ladder retaining boltstightened to the specified torque, refit the oilrail and the cylinder head, then measure theinternal diameter of each assembled pair ofbearing shells. If the diameter of eachcorresponding crankshaft journal is measuredand then subtracted from the bearing internaldiameter, the result will be the main bearingrunning clearance.12 The second (and more accurate) methodis to use product known as Plastigauge. Thisconsists of a fine thread of perfectly roundplastic which is compressed between thebearing shell and the journal. When the shell isremoved, the plastic is deformed and can bemeasured with a special card gauge suppliedwith the kit. The running clearance isdetermined from this gauge. Plastigauge issometimes difficult to obtain but enquiries atone of the larger specialist quality motorfactors should produce the name of a stockistin your area. The procedure for usingPlastigauge is as follows.13 With the main bearing upper shells inplace, carefully lay the crankshaft in position.Do not use any lubricant. The crankshaftjournals and bearing shells must be perfectlyclean and dry.14 Cut several lengths of the appropriate sizePlastigauge (they should be slightly shorterthan the width of the main bearings) and placeone length on each crankshaft journal axis(see illustration).15 With the main bearing lower shells inposition, refit the main bearing ladder (seebelow) and the oil rail, tightening the fasteners

to the specified torque wrench settings. Takecare not to disturb the Plastigauge.16 Refit the cylinder head (using the originalgasket, to save over-compressing the newone). Tighten the bolts to the specified torquein the approved sequence. Do not rotate thecrankshaft at any time during this operation.17 Remove the cylinder head, the oil rail andthe main bearing ladder. Do not disturb thePlastigauge or rotate the crankshaft.18 Compare the width of the crushedPlastigauge on each journal to the scaleprinted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtainthe main bearing running clearance (seeillustration).19 If the clearance is not as specified, thebearing shells may be the wrong grade (orexcessively worn if the original shells are beingre-used). Before deciding that different gradeshells are needed, make sure that no dirt or oilwas trapped between the bearing shells andthe ladder or cylinder block/crankcase whenthe clearance was measured. If thePlastigauge was wider at one end than at theother, the journal may be tapered.20 Carefully scrape away all traces of thePlastigauge material from the crankshaft andbearing shells using a fingernail or otherobject which is unlikely to score the shells.

Final crankshaft refitting21 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of thecylinder block once more.22 Using a little grease, stick thethrustwashers to each side of the No 3 mainbearing upper location. Ensure that the oilwaygrooves on each thrustwasher face outwards.23 Place the bearing shells in their locations,as described in paragraphs 7 to 9. If newshells are being fitted, ensure that all traces ofthe protective grease are cleaned off usingparaffin. Wipe dry the shells and connectingrods with a lint-free cloth. Liberally lubricateeach bearing shell in the cylinderblock/crankcase, then lower the crankshaftinto position so that Nos 2 and 3 cylindercrankpins are at TDC.24 Refit the piston/connecting rod


18.18 Using scale on Plastigauge envelopeto check (at widest point) width of crushed

Plastigauge

18.14 Lay length of Plastigauge on journalto be measured, parallel to crankshaft

centre-line

18.9 Ensure grooved bearing shells(arrowed) are installed exactly as

described in text - early engine shown

2B


assemblies (see illustrations). Leave No 1and 4 cylinders at the TDC position25 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfacesof the cylinder block/crankcase and the mainbearing ladder. Apply the special Roversealant to the mating surface of the cylinderblock/crankcase as shown (see illustration).Carefully follow the instructions supplied withthe sealant kit. If the Rover sealant is beingused, assembly must be completed as soonas possible after the sealant has been applied(maximum of 20 minutes). If another sealant isbeing used, follow the manufacturer’sinstructions.

26 Lubricate the bearing shells, then refit themain bearing ladder, ensuring that the shellsare not displaced and that the locating dowelsengage correctly. Working progressively, by aturn at a time and in the sequence shown (seeillustration), tighten the ladder bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting. Thecrankshaft cannot now be rotated.27 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfacesof the oil rail and the main bearing ladder.Apply the special Rover sealant to the oil railmating surface as shown (see illustration).Carefully follow the instructions supplied withthe sealant kit.

28 Refit the oil rail, tightening the nuts to thespecified torque wrench setting.29 Using a new sealing ring, refit the oilpump pick-up/strainer pipe to the oil rail, thenrefit the sump. Tighten all nuts and bolts tothe specified torque wrench settings.30 Fit a new crankshaft left-hand oil seal,then refit the flywheel (see illustrations).31 Refit the oil pump and install a newcrankshaft right-hand oil seal (seeillustrations).32 Refit the cylinder head. Rotate thecrankshaft to the 90° BTDC position so thatthe crankshaft sprocket timing marks align.


18.31a Use grease to stick new gasket inplace when refitting oil pump

18.30c Use fabricated tool to lock flywheelwhile slackening or tightening flywheel

bolts

18.30b Always use new bolts whenrefitting flywheel

18.30a Fitting a new crankshaft left-handoil seal

18.27 Apply thin bead of sealant to oil railmating surface as shown by heavy black

lines, then spread to an even film

18.26 Crankshaft main bearing ladder bolttightening sequence

18.25 Apply thin bead of sealant tocylinder block/crankcase mating surfacealong paths shown by heavy black lines,

then spread to an even film

18.24b . . . care is required to holdcrankshaft steady while connecting rod

big-end cap bolts are tightened

18.24a If piston/connecting rodassemblies are refitted before main

bearing ladder . . .


33 Refit the dipstick tube to the cylinderblock/crankcase, tightening the bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting.34 Refit the timing belt inner cover, thesprocket(s) and tensioner, and the belt itself.35 Using a torque wrench, check that theamount of force required to rotate thecrankshaft does not exceed 31 Nm. If theeffort required is greater than this, the enginemust be dismantled again to trace and rectifythe cause. This value takes into account theincreased friction of a new engine and ismuch higher than the actual pressure requiredto rotate a run-in engine, so do not makeallowances for tight components.

19 Piston/connecting rodassembly - refitting and big-endbearing running clearance check

4Selection of bearing shells1 The big-end bearing running clearance iscontrolled in production by selecting one ofthree grades of bearing shell. The grades areindicated by a colour-coding marked on theedge of each shell which governs the shell’sthickness, as follows:a) Yellow - Thin.b) Blue - Intermediate.c) Red - Thick.2 If shells of differing grades are to be fittedto the same journal, the thicker shell mustalways be fitted to the big-end bearing caplocation.3 If the bearing shells are to be renewed, firstcheck and record the codes stamped on thefront face of each big-end bearing cap andconnecting rod. The number stamped on thebig-end bearing cap is the bearing size code,the number stamped on the connecting rod is the piston/rod assembly’s cylinder numberand the letter stamped on the connecting rodis the weight code (see illustration).4 Secondly, check and record thecrankpin/big-end journal code lettersstamped on the crankshaft’s left-hand web(see illustration), No 1 journal’s code letter

being the first. If the original crankshaft is tobe re-used, the code letter can be checked bydirect measurement.5 If the crankshaft is found to be excessivelyworn, then it must be renewed and the codeletters of the new component must be usedinstead to select a new set of bearing shells.6 Matching the codes noted to the followingtable, select a new set of bearing shells:Cap code Crankshaftnumber code letter Shells5 A Blue, Blue5 B Red, Blue5 C Red, Red6 A Blue, Yellow6 B Blue, Blue6 C Red, Blue7 A Yellow, Yellow7 B Blue, Yellow7 C Blue, Blue

Big-end bearing runningclearance check7 The big-end bearing running clearanceshould be checked if there is any doubt aboutthe amount of crankshaft wear that has takenplace, if the crankshaft has been regroundand is to be refitted with non-Roverundersized bearing shells, or if non-genuinebearing shells are to be fitted. If the originalcrankshaft or a Rover replacement part is tobe installed, the shell selection proceduregiven above will produce the correctclearances and a further check will not benecessary. If the clearance is to be checked, itcan be done in either of two ways.8 The first method is to refit the big-endbearing cap to the connecting rod, withbearing shells in place. With the cap retainingbolts tightened to the specified torque, use aninternal micrometer or vernier caliper tomeasure the internal diameter of eachassembled pair of bearing shells. If thediameter of each corresponding crankshaftjournal is measured and then subtracted fromthe bearing internal diameter, the result will bethe big-end bearing running clearance.9 The second method is to use Plastigauge.Place a strand of Plastigauge on each

(cleaned) crankpin journal and refit the (clean)piston/connecting rod assemblies, shells andbig-end bearing caps, tightening the bolts tothe specified torque wrench settings. Takecare not to disturb the Plastigauge. Dismantlethe assemblies without rotating the crankshaftand use the scale printed on the Plastigaugeenvelope to obtain the big-end bearingrunning clearance. On completion of themeasurement, carefully scrape off all traces ofPlastigauge from the journal and shells usinga fingernail or other object which will notscore the components.

Final piston/connecting rodassembly refitting10 Note that the following procedureassumes that the cylinder liners have beenrefitted to the cylinder block/crankcase andthat the crankshaft and main bearing ladderare in place. It is of course possible to refit thepiston/connecting rod assemblies to thecylinder bores, to refit the crankshaft and toreassemble the piston/connecting rods on thecrankshaft before refitting the main bearingladder (see Section 18).11 Clean the backs of the bearing shells andthe bearing recesses in both the connectingrod and the big-end bearing cap. If new shellsare being fitted, ensure that all traces of theprotective grease are cleaned off usingparaffin. Wipe dry the shells and connectingrods with a lint-free cloth.12 Press the bearing shells into theirlocations, ensuring that the tab on each shellengages in the notch in the connecting rod orbig-end bearing cap and taking care not totouch any shell’s bearing surface with yourfingers. Note the following points:a) If bearing shells of differing grades are to

be fitted to the same journal, the thicker shell must always be fitted to thebig-end bearing cap location (seeparagraph 1).

b) On all engines, if the original big-endbearing shells are being re-used, thesemust be refitted to their original locationsin the connecting rod and big-end bearingcap.


19.4 Crankpin (big-end) journal size codelocation

19.3 Big-end bearing size code number (A- on cap) piston/connecting rod assemblycylinder number (B) and connecting rod

weight code letter (C)

18.31b Fitting a new crankshaft right-handoil seal

2B


13 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistonsand piston rings, then lay out eachpiston/connecting rod assembly in itsrespective position.14 Starting with assembly No 1, make surethat the piston rings are still correctly spaced,then clamp them in position with a piston ringcompressor.15 Insert the piston/connecting rod assemblyinto the top of liner No 1, ensuring that thearrow (or FRONT marking) on the pistoncrown faces the timing belt end of the engine.Note that the stamped marks on theconnecting rod and big-end bearing capshould face the front (alternator bracket side)of the engine. Using a block of wood orhammer handle against the piston crown, tapthe assembly into the liner until the pistoncrown is flush with the top of the liner (seeillustrations).16 Ensure that the bearing shell is stillcorrectly installed. Taking care not to mark theliner bores, liberally lubricate the crankpin and

both bearing shells, then pull thepiston/connecting rod assembly down thebore and onto the crankpin. Noting that thefaces with the stamped marks must match(which means that the bearing shell locatingtabs abut each other), refit the big-endbearing cap, tightening the bolts finger-tightat first.17 Use a torque wrench to tighten the boltsevenly to the (first stage) torque wrenchsetting specified, then use an angular torquegauge to tighten the bolts evenly through the(second stage) angle specified (seeillustrations).18 Repeat the procedure for the remainingthree piston/connecting rod assemblies, butdo not attempt to rotate the crankshaft.19 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfacesof the oil rail and the main bearing ladder.Apply the special Rover sealant to the oil railmating surface (see illustration 18.27).Carefully follow the instructions supplied withthe sealant kit.

20 Refit the oil rail, tightening the nuts to thespecified torque wrench setting.21 Refit the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipeand sump.22 Refit the cylinder head. Rotate thecrankshaft to the 90° BTDC position so thatthe crankshaft sprocket timing marks align.23 Refit the dipstick tube to the cylinderblock/crankcase, tightening the bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting.24 Refit the hydraulic tappets andcamshaft(s).25 Refit the timing belt inner cover,sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the belt itself.26 Using a torque wrench, check that theamount of force required to rotate the crankshaftdoes not exceed 31 Nm. If the effort required isgreater than this, the engine must be dismantledagain to trace and rectify the cause. This valuetakes into account the increased friction of anew engine and is much higher than the actualpressure required to rotate a run-in engine, sodo not make allowances for tight components.


19.17b . . . then use angular torque gauge to tighten bolts throughangle specified (second stage)

19.17a Tighten connecting rod big-end bearing cap bolts tospecified torque wrench setting (first stage) . . .

18.15b Using piston ring compressor to clamp piston rings19.15a Arrow or FRONT marking (arrowed) on piston crown mustpoint to timing belt end of engine


20 Engine - initial start-up after overhaul 2

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,double-check the engine oil and coolantlevels. Make a final check that everything hasbeen reconnected and that there are no toolsor rags left in the engine compartment.2 With the spark plugs removed and theignition system disabled by earthing the ignitionHT coil distributor spark plug (HT) lead with ajumper lead, turn the engine over on the starteruntil the oil pressure warning lamp goes out.

3 Refit the spark plugs and connect all thespark plug (HT) leads.4 Start the engine, noting that this may take alittle longer than usual due to the fuel systemcomponents being empty.5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,coolant and oil leaks. Do not be alarmed ifthere are some odd smells and smoke fromparts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,some valve gear noise may be heard at first;this should disappear as the oil circulates fullyaround the engine and normal pressure isrestored in the tappets.6 Keep the engine idling until hot coolant is

felt circulating through the top hose, checkthe ignition timing and idle speed and mixture(as appropriate), then switch it off.7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil andcoolant levels and top up as necessary.8 If they were tightened as described, there isno need to re-tighten the cylinder head boltsonce the engine has first run after reassembly.9 If new pistons, rings or crankshaft bearingshave been fitted, the engine must be run-in forthe first 500 miles (800 km). Do not operatethe engine at full throttle or allow it to labour inany gear during this period. It isrecommended that the oil and filter bechanged at the end of this period.


2B


3


Chapter 3Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt - inspection, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Air conditioning refrigerant - level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . 15Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Cooling system - draining, flushing and filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Cooling system - general inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Cooling system electrical switches - testing, removal and refitting . 9

Cooling system hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Heater components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Heater controls - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Heater ducts and vents - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 5Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

3•1

Contents

SpecificationsSystemType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, pump-assisted thermo-syphon with front mounted

radiator and thermostatically-controlled electric cooling fan

ThermostatType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WaxStart to open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 80°CFully open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 or 88°C (actual value stamped in unit end)Full lift height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm

Expansion tankCap pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 to 1.0 bar

Cooling fanOperating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 92°C

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cooling systemFan motor nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4Temperature gauge sender unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Thermostat housing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Thermostat housing/dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt . . . 9 7Coolant rail-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Coolant pump-to-timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover bolt . . . . . . 9 7Coolant pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Heating systemHeater lower mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15Heater blower motor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Air conditioning systemCompressor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Condenser unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13Evaporator inlet union (from receiver drier) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13Evaporator outlet union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24Receiver drier union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13Trinary switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9







54321


General informationThe cooling system is of the pressurised,

pump-assisted thermo-syphon type. Itconsists of the front-mounted radiator, atranslucent expansion tank mounted on theright-hand inner wing, a thermostatically-controlled electric cooling fan mounted on therear of the radiator, a thermostat and acentrifugal coolant pump, as well as theconnecting hoses (see illustration). Thecoolant pump is driven by the engine timingbelt.

The system is of the by-pass type, allowingcoolant to circulate around the engine whilethe thermostat is closed. With the enginecold, the thermostat closes off the coolantfeed from the bottom radiator hose. Coolant isthen drawn into the engine via the heatermatrix, inlet manifold and from the top of thecylinder block. This allows some heat transfer,by convection, to the radiator through the top

hose whilst retaining the majority of heatwithin the cylinder block.

The siting of the thermostat in the intakerather than the outlet side of the systemensures that the engine warms up quickly bycirculating a small amount of coolant around ashorter tract. This also prevents temperaturebuild-up in the cylinder head prior to thethermostat opening.

When the coolant reaches a predeterminedtemperature, the thermostat opens and thecoolant is allowed to flow freely through thetop hose to the radiator. As the coolantcirculates through the radiator, it is cooled bythe inrush of air when the vehicle is in forwardmotion. Airflow is supplemented by the actionof the electric cooling fan when necessary.Upon reaching the bottom of the radiator, thecoolant is now cooled and the cycle isrepeated.

With the engine at normal operatingtemperature, the coolant expands and someof it is displaced into the expansion tank. Thiscoolant collects in the tank and is returned tothe radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan mounted behindthe radiator is controlled by a thermostatic

switch located in the radiator side tank. At a predetermined coolant temperature the switch contacts close, thus actuating thefan.

Precautions

Cooling systemDo not attempt to remove the expansion

tank filler cap or to disturb any part of thecooling system whilst it or the engine is hot,as there is a very great risk of scalding. If theexpansion tank filler cap must be removedbefore the engine and radiator have fullycooled down (even though this is notrecommended) the pressure in the coolingsystem must first be released. Cover the capwith a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding,and slowly unscrew the filler cap until ahissing sound can be heard. When the hissinghas stopped, showing that pressure isreleased, slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times keep well away from the filleropening.

Do not allow antifreeze to come in contactwith your skin or painted surfaces of thevehicle. Rinse off spills immediately withplenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lyingaround, it is fatal if ingested.

If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fanmay start rotating even if the engine is notrunning, so be careful to keep hands, hair andloose clothing well clear when working in theengine compartment.

Air conditioning systemOn models equipped with an air

conditioning system, it is necessary toobserve special precautions whenever dealingwith any part of the system, its associatedcomponents and any items which necessitatedisconnection of the system. If for any reasonthe system must be disconnected, entrust thistask to your Rover dealer or a refrigerationengineer.

Refrigerant must not be allowed to come incontact with a naked flame, otherwise apoisonous gas will be created. Do not allowthe fluid to come in contact with the skin oreyes.

2 Cooling system - draining,flushing and refilling

Refer to Chapter 1.

3 Cooling system - general inspection

Refer to “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

1.0 Cooling system components

1 Radiator2 Cooling fan and cowling3 Radiator mounting

rubbers4 Bottom hose5 Top hose6 Coolant pipe - bottom

hose to thermostathousing

7 Thermostat housing cover

8 Gasket

9 Thermostat10 Thermostat housing11 O-ring12 Coolant pump13 Expansion tank14 Hose - heater matrix and

manifold return15 Hose - heater matrix and

manifold feed16 Heater temperature

control valve17 Coolant filler stem

18 Cooling system bleedscrew

19 Engine overheat switch -where fitted

20 Coolant pipe - expansiontank to bottom hose

21 Hose - expansion tankreturn

22 Sealing ring23 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch24 Locking ring


4 Cooling system hoses -renewal 2

1 If inspection of the cooling system reveals afaulty hose, then it must be renewed asfollows.2 First drain the cooling system. If the coolantis not due for renewal, it may be re-used ifcollected in a clean container.3 To disconnect any hose, use a screwdriverto slacken the clips then move them along thehose clear of the outlet. Carefully work thehose off its outlets. Do not attempt todisconnect any part of the system when stillhot.4 Note that the radiator hose outlets arefragile. Do not use excessive force whenattempting to remove the hoses. If a hoseproves stubborn, try to release it by rotating iton its outlets before attempting to work it off.If all else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knifethen slit it so that it can be peeled off in twopieces. While expensive, this is preferable tobuying a new radiator.5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clipsonto the hose then work the hose onto itsoutlets. If the hose is stiff, use soap as alubricant or soften it by first soaking it inboiling water whilst taking care to preventscalding.6 Work each hose end fully onto its outlet,check that the hose is settled correctly and isproperly routed, then slide each clip along thehose until it is behind the outlet flared endbefore tightening it securely.7 Refill the system with coolant.8 Check carefully for leaks as soon aspossible after disturbing any part of thecooling system.

5 Radiator and expansion tank- removal, inspection andrefitting

2RemovalRadiator1 Drain the cooling system.2 On models equipped with air conditioning,remove the condenser fan, then undo the twobolts securing the air conditioning pipes to thebonnet platform.3 Remove the air cleaner metal intake ductand intake hose.4 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiringconnector, then slacken and remove the bolt

securing the earth leads to the bonnet platform.Disconnect the wiring from the thermostaticswitch(es) which are fitted to the right-handside of the radiator (see illustrations).5 Slacken the bottom hose retaining clip anddisconnect the hose from the radiator.6 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnectthe top hose from both the radiator andengine coolant elbow (see illustrations).Position the hose clear of the radiator so thatit does not hinder removal.7 Undo the two bolts securing the uppermounting brackets to the bonnet platform andremove the brackets from the radiator.Disengage the radiator from its lower mountingpoints and carefully manoeuvre it out of theengine compartment (see illustrations).

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

5.6a Slacken clips and disconnect tophose from radiator . . .

5.4b Disconnecting wiring connector fromradiator switch

5.7a Undo radiator mounting bolts . . .

5.6b . . . and engine coolant elbow

5.7c . . . and manoeuvre radiator out ofengine compartment

5.7b . . . remove mounting brackets . . .

5.4a Disconnect cooling fan wiringconnector then remove earth lead

retaining bolt (arrowed)

3


Never work on the coolingsystem when it is hot.Release any pressure fromthe system by loosening the

expansion tank cap, having firstcovered it with a cloth to avoid anypossibility of scalding.

Expansion tank8 Slacken and remove the three boltssecuring the expansion tank to the body.Unscrew the expansion tank cap and tip outits contents into a suitable container.9 Slacken the retaining clips then disconnectboth the hoses from the expansion tank andremove the tank from the vehicle.

InspectionRadiator10 If the radiator was removed because ofclogging (causing overheating) then tryreverse flushing or, in severe cases, use aradiator cleanser strictly in accordance withthe manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure that the cleanser is suitable for use in acopper/brass radiator. Refer to Chapter 1 forfurther information11 Use a soft brush and an air line or gardenhose to clear the radiator matrix of leaves,insects etc.

12 Major leaks or extensive damage shouldbe repaired by a specialist, or the radiatorshould be renewed or exchanged for areconditioned unit.13 Examine the mounting rubbers for signsof damage or deterioration and renew ifnecessary.Expansion tank14 Empty any remaining coolant from thetank and flush it with fresh water to clean it. Ifthe tank is leaking it must be renewed but it isworth first attempting a repair using aproprietary sealant or suitable adhesive.15 The expansion tank cap should becleaned and checked whenever it is removed.Check that its sealing surfaces and threadsare clean and undamaged and that they matecorrectly with those of the expansion tank.16 The cap’s performance can only bechecked by using a cap pressure-tester(cooling system tester) with a suitable

adaptor. On applying pressure, the cap’spressure relief valve should hold until thespecified pressure is reached, at which pointthe valve should open.17 If there is any doubt about the cap’sperformance, then it must be renewed. Ensurethat the replacement is of the correct type andrating.

Refitting

Radiator18 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure whilst noting the following:a) Ensure that the radiator is seated

correctly and without strain on itsmountings.

b) Ensure that the radiator hoses aresecurely held by the retaining clips.

c) Ensure that all wiring connectors arecorrectly routed so that they are clear ofthe cooling fan and are retained by anynecessary clips or ties.

d) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

Expansion tank19 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure whilst noting the following:a) Ensure that all hoses are correctly routed

with no kinks or sharp bends and aresecurely held by the retaining clips.

b) Top up the expansion tank as describedin Chapter 1.

6 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 3

Removal1 Note that access to the thermostat is verylimited. Depending on the tools available, itmay be easier to raise the front of the vehicleand to work from underneath, ensuring thatthe vehicle is securely supported on axlestands. In most cases, access is better if theair cleaner and carburettor (or throttle body onSPi engines) are removed and is best if thecomplete inlet manifold is removed. If the inletmanifold is removed, the thermostat housing

cover can be unbolted to remove thethermostat without disturbing the housingitself (see illustration). Whichever method isused, first drain the cooling system.2 On carburettor models equipped with acatalytic converter, either remove thethermostatically-operated vacuum switch ordisconnect the vacuum pipes from the switchso that it can be removed with the thermostathousing.3 Unbolt the coolant rail from the rear of thecylinder block/crankcase, then slacken theclips and disconnect the coolant rail hose andheater/inlet manifold return hose from thethermostat housing (see illustration).4 Undo the thermostat housing/dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and removethe thermostat housing from the cylinderblock/crankcase. Remove the housing O-ringwhich must be renewed whenever it isdisturbed (see illustrations).5 Slacken and remove the three thermostathousing cover bolts and lift off the housingcover. Discard the gasket and remove thethermostat.

Testing6 If the thermostat remains in the openposition at room temperature, then it is faultyand must be renewed.7 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)thermostat on a length of string in a containerof cold water, with a thermometer beside it.


6.4b . . . and withdraw thermostat housing(O-ring arrowed) – inlet manifold removed

for clarity

6.4a . . . unscrew dipstick tube retainingbolt . . .

6.3 Disconnect coolant rail andheater/inlet manifold hoses (arrowed) . . .

6.1 Thermostat can be removed withoutdisturbing housing if inlet manifold is first

removed


Minor leaks from theradiator can be cured usinga suitable sealant with theradiator in situ.

Ensure that neither touches the side of thecontainer (see illustration).8 Heat the water and check the temperatureat which the thermostat begins to open.Compare this value with that specified.Continue to heat the water until thethermostat is fully open. The temperature atwhich this should happen is stamped in theunit’s end (see illustration). Remove thethermostat and measure the height of the fullyopened valve, then allow the thermostat tocool down and check that it closes fully.9 If the thermostat does not open and closeas described, if it sticks in either position, or ifit does not open at the specified temperature,then it must be renewed.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustration):a) Clean the thermostat housing, housing

cover and cylinder block/crankcasemating surfaces thoroughly.

b) Always fit a new housing cover gasketand O-ring. Smear the O-ring with greaseto aid refitting.

c) Tighten all bolts to their specified torquewrench settings (where given).

d) Ensure the coolant hose clips arepositioned so that they do not foul anyother component, then tighten themsecurely.

e) Refit any components removed forimproved access.

f) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

7 Coolant pump - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Coolant pump failure is usually indicated bycoolant leaking from the gland behind thepump bearing, or by rough and noisyoperation, usually accompanied by excessivepump spindle play. If the pump shows any ofthese symptoms then it must be renewed asfollows.2 Drain the cooling system.3 Remove the timing belt.4 Noting the location of the pillar bolt(s),unscrew the five bolts securing the coolantpump to the cylinder block/crankcase, thenunscrew the single bolt securing the pump tothe timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover.5 Withdraw the coolant pump and discard itssealing ring which should be renewedwhenever it is disturbed. Carefully clean thecylinder block/crankcase mating surface andthe pump socket (see illustration).

Refitting6 On refitting, install the pump using a newsealing ring and tighten all bolts to thespecified torque wrench settings.7 The remainder of the refitting procedure isthe reverse of removal.

8 Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting 2

Note: On models equipped with airconditioning, there are two switches fitted tothe right-hand side of the radiator, the lower ofthese is the cooling fan switch.

Testing1 The cooling fan motor is supplied withcurrent via the ignition switch, fuse 4 and thecooling fan relay. The relay is energised by theradiator-mounted thermostatic switch whichis fed via fuse number 15.

2 If the fan does not appear to work, firstcheck that both fuses are in good conditionand have not blown. Run the engine untilnormal operating temperature is reached,then allow it to idle. If the fan does not cut inwithin a few minutes, switch off the ignitionand disconnect the two wires from thethermostatic switch. Bridge these two wireswith a length of spare wire and switch on theignition. If the fan now operates, thethermostatic switch is probably faulty andmust be tested further as described inSection 9.3 If the fan still fails to operate, check that fullbattery voltage is available at the switch’slight green and grey wire terminal. If not,check the feed for a blown fuse or other faultsuch as a broken wire. If the feed is good,check the cooling fan relay, see Chapter 12. Ifthe relay operates correctly, check forcontinuity between the fan motor black wireterminal and a good earth point on the body. Ifnot, then the earth connection is faulty andmust be remade. The circuit earth connectionis one of those at earth header 1, attached tothe left-hand inner wing panel next to thebattery.4 If the switch and wiring are in goodcondition, the fault must be in the motor itself.This can be checked by disconnecting it fromthe wiring loom and connecting a 12 voltsupply directly to it. If the motor does notwork then it must be renewed.

Removal5 Drain the cooling system, then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it securely onaxle stands.6 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel.7 Remove the air cleaner metal intake ductand intake hose.8 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnectthe top hose from both the radiator andengine. Position the hose clear of the radiatorso that it does not hinder removal.9 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiringconnector.


6.10 Thermostat housing and coolanthoses refitted

6.8 Note temperature specificationstamped on thermostat end

6.7 Testing the thermostat

7.5 Removing the coolant pump

3


10 Undo the four nuts securing the coolingfan cowling to the rear of the radiator andmanoeuvre the fan assembly out of the enginecompartment (see illustrations).11 To dismantle the assembly, first prise offthe fan retaining circlip, then lift the fan off themotor spindle. Undo the three nuts whichsecure the motor assembly to the cowlingthen release the motor wiring and connectorand separate the motor and cowling (seeillustration).

Refitting12 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) If necessary, reassemble the fan motor,

cowling and fan, then tighten the motorretaining nuts to the specified torque.Ensure that the motor wiring is securelyretained by the cowling clips.

b) Ensure that the radiator hose is securelyheld by its retaining clips.

c) On completion, refill the cooling systemas described in Chapter 1.

9 Cooling system electricalswitches - testing, removaland refitting

2Note: On models equipped with airconditioning, there are two switches fitted tothe right-hand side of the radiator, the lower ofthese is the cooling fan switch.

Testing

Cooling fan thermostatic switch1 Refer to Section 8 for details of a quick testwhich should eliminate most faulty switches.If the switch is to be renewed, or to be testedthoroughly, it must be removed.2 To carry out a thorough test of the switch,use two spare wires to connect to it either amultimeter (set to the resistance function) or abattery and bulb test circuit. Suspend theswitch in a pan of water which is beingheated. Measure the temperature of the waterwith a thermometer. Do not let either theswitch or the thermometer touch the pan itself(see illustration).

3 The switch contacts should close to the ONposition (ie: continuity should exist) when thewater reaches the temperature specified.Stop heating the water and allow it to cooldown. The switch contacts should open.4 If the switch’s performance is significantlydifferent from that specified, or if it does notwork at all, then it must be renewed.

Coolant temperature gauge senderunit5 The coolant temperature gauge mounted inthe instrument panel is fed with a stabilised 10volt supply from the instrument panel feed (viathe ignition switch and fuse 1), its earth beingcontrolled by the sender unit.6 The sender unit is screwed into the coolantoutlet elbow mounted on the left-hand end ofthe cylinder head, underneath the distributor(see illustration). It contains a thermistor,which is an element whose electricalresistance decreases at a predetermined rateas its temperature rises. Thus, when thecoolant is cold, the sender’s resistance ishigh, current flow through the gauge isreduced and the gauge needle points to the C (cold) end of the scale. If the unit is faulty itmust be renewed.

7 If the gauge develops a fault, check first theother instruments. If they do not work at all,check the instrument panel feed. If thereadings are erratic, there may be a fault in thevoltage stabiliser which will necessitate therenewal of the gauge unit or printed circuit. Ifthe fault is in the temperature gauge alone,check it as follows.8 If the gauge needle remains at the C end ofthe scale, disconnect the sender unit wire andearth it to the cylinder head. If the needle thendeflects when the ignition is switched on, thenthe sender unit is proven faulty and must berenewed. If the needle still does not move,remove the instrument panel and check thecontinuity of the green/blue wire between thegauge and the sender unit and the feed to the gauge unit. If continuity is shown and thefault still exists, then the gauge is faulty andthe gauge unit must be renewed.9 If the gauge needle remains at the H end ofthe scale, disconnect the sender unit wire. Ifthe needle then returns to the C end of thescale when the ignition is switched on, thenthe sender unit is proven faulty and must berenewed. If the needle still does not move,check the remainder of the circuit asdescribed above.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperatureswitch - carburettor engines10 The switch screwed into the underside ofthe inlet manifold on carburettor engines


9.6 Coolant temperature gauge senderunit

9.2 Testing cooling system electricalswitch

8.11 Cooling fan motor retaining nuts(arrowed)

8.10b . . . and remove fan assembly8.10a Undo cooling fan cowling retainingnuts (2 arrowed) . . .


controls the inlet manifold heater circuit (seeillustration).11 The switch contacts should be closed tothe ON position (ie: continuity should exist)only at temperatures below 50°C. Remove theswitch and test it as described in para-graphs 2 to 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuumswitch - carburettor engines equippedwith catalytic converters12 This switch is screwed into the thermostathousing.13 To test the switch, fit two suitable lengthsof hose to the switch and suspend the switchin a pan of water which is being heated.Measure the temperature of the water with a thermometer. Do not let either theswitch or the thermometer touch the panitself.14 Blow down one of the hoses attached tothe switch. The switch should be closed (ie:passes no air) when the water temperature isbelow 70°C. Above 70°C, the switch shouldopen and air should flow freely through thehoses. Stop heating the water then allow thewater to cool down and check that the switchcloses at 70°C or just below.15 If the switch performance is significantlydifferent from that specified, or if it does notwork at all, then it must be renewed.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuelinjected engines16 This sensor, which is screwed into theunderside of the inlet manifold (SPi engines),or located in the coolant pipe adjacent to thefoward top edge of the timing belt cover (MPiengines), is a thermistor (see paragraph 6)which is supplied with approximately 5 voltsby the engine management system ECU. TheECU also controls the sensor’s earth pathand, by measuring the amount of current inthe sensor circuit, determines the engine’stemperature. This information is used, inconjunction with other inputs, to control idlespeed, injector opening time duration andignition timing.17 If the sensor circuit should fail to provideadequate information, the ECU’s back-up

facility assumes a value corresponding to60°C. The sensor itself can be tested only byhaving a Rover dealer check the completesystem using the correct diagnosticequipment. Do not attempt to test the circuitusing any other equipment, or the ECU will bedamaged.

Removal

Cooling fan thermostatic switch18 With the engine and radiator cold, eitherdrain the cooling system down to the level ofthe sender unit, or unscrew the expansiontank filler cap to release any remainingpressure and have a suitable plug ready thatcan be used to stop the escape of coolantwhile the switch is removed.19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.20 Disconnect the wiring connector from theswitch then rotate the locking ring to releaseit. Withdraw the switch and sealing ring fromthe radiator (see illustration).

Coolant temperature gauge senderunit21 With the engine and radiator cold, eitherdrain the cooling system down to the level ofthe switch, or unscrew the expansion tankfiller cap to release any remaining pressureand have a suitable plug ready that can beused to stop the escape of coolant while theunit is removed.22 Disconnect the battery negative lead.23 Disconnect the unit’s wiring connectorand unscrew the unit from the coolant outletelbow.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperatureswitch - carburettor engines24 Refer to Chapter 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuumswitch - carburettor engines equippedwith catalytic converters25 Refer to Chapter 5.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuelinjected engines26 Refer to Chapter 4.

Refitting

Cooling fan thermostatic switch27 On refitting, renew the sealing ring if it isworn or compressed and carefully clean theradiator seat before pressing in the sealing ring and switch (see illustration). Refit the locking ring and rotate it to tighten it securely. Reconnect the switch and battery, then replenish the coolingsystem.

Coolant temperature gauge senderunit28 On refitting, apply a suitable sealant to theunit threads and tighten it to its specifiedtorque wrench setting. Reconnect the unitand battery, then replenish the coolingsystem.




10 Heater components -removal and refitting 3

Removal

Heater unit1 Drain the cooling system.2 Working in the engine compartment,slacken the hose clips and disconnect theheater feed and return hoses from the matrixoutlets on the bulkhead. Disconnect the cableinner from the heater valve and free the cableouter from its retaining clip. Slacken and


9.27 Cooling fan switch locking ring (A)thermostatic switch (B) and sealing

ring (C)

9.20 Remove cooling fan thermostaticswitch and withdraw sealing ring

(arrowed)

9.10 Inlet manifold pre-heater temperatureswitch (carburettor engines)

3


remove the heater lower mounting nut whichis situated just to the left of the matrix outlets(see illustrations).3 Working inside the vehicle, remove thefacia.4 Slacken and remove the two retainingscrews and remove the blower motor-to-heater unit duct (see illustration). On modelsequipped with air conditioning, the evaporatorunit is fitted in place of the duct. It may bepossible to gain the necessary clearancerequired to disengage the evaporator from theheater unit by removing the mountingbrackets and nuts. If not, the evaporator mustbe removed.5 Undo the screw securing the right-handheater duct to the mounting bracket, thenmove the duct to the right to disengage it fromthe heater unit (see illustrations).

6 Undo the inertia switch retaining nut anddisengage the switch from the steeringcolumn support bracket.

7 Release the wiring block connector fromthe right-hand end of the steering columnsupport bracket and undo the fusebox


10.5a Undo right-hand duct retainingscrew (arrowed) . . .

10.2c . . . and free heater valve cable fromretaining clip

10.2d Slacken and remove heater unitlower mounting nut

10.4 Remove blower motor-to-heater unitduct

10.2b Disconnect heater feed and returnhoses . . .

10.2a Heater unit components

1 Heater case2 Heater case clip3 Face level/windscreen

duct4 Floor level duct5 Heater matrix6 Heater matrix cover7 Cable retaining clip

8 Floor level flap operatinglever

9 Clip10 Floor level flap idler lever11 Face level flap idler lever12 Flap operating lever13 Air mix flap operating lever14 Air mix flap

15 Ambient air flap - centreconsole vents

16 Distribution flap -windscreen

17 Distribution flap - facelevel vents

18 Distribution flap - floorlevel vents


retaining nut. Slacken and remove the fivesupport bracket retaining bolts and removethe bracket from the vehicle (seeillustrations).8 Disconnect the air recirculation cable innerfrom the flap and free the cable outer from theblower motor.9 Prise out the stud securing the rear heaterduct sleeve to the bottom of the heater unit,then slide the sleeve down to disengage itfrom the unit (see illustration).10 Disconnect the wiring connectors fromthe heater control panel, then remove the twoupper heater unit retaining nuts and carefullymanoeuvre the heater unit out of the vehicle(see illustrations).

Heater matrix11 Remove the heater unit.12 Undo the screw securing the matrix outletpipe bracket to the heater unit and remove thebracket (see illustration).13 Slacken and remove the two matrix coverretaining screws, then remove the cover andwithdraw the matrix from the heater unit (seeillustrations).14 If the matrix is leaking, it is best to obtaina new or reconditioned unit as home repairsare seldom successful. If it is blocked, it cansometimes be cleared by reverse flushingusing a garden hose. Use a proprietaryradiator cleaning product if absolutelynecessary.


10.7b Remove mounting bolts andmanoeuvre steering column mounting

bracket out of position

10.7a Release wiring connector fromsteering column support bracket and

remove fusebox nut (arrowed)

10.5b . . . and disengage duct from heaterunit

10.13c . . . and withdraw matrix fromheater unit

10.13b . . . then remove cover . . .

10.12 Undo retaining screw and removematrix outlet pipe bracket

10.10b . . . and remove heater retainingnuts

10.10a Disconnect wiring from heatercontrol panel . . .

10.9 Remove retaining stud and disengagerear heater duct sleeve from heater unit

10.13a Undo two matrix cover retainingscrews . . .

3


Heater blower motor15 Undo the two glovebox retaining screwsthen partially withdraw the glovebox untilaccess can be gained to the glovebox damperto facia screw. Undo the damper screw andremove the glovebox and damper (seeillustration).16 Slacken and remove the four gloveboxsupport rail mounting bolts and remove therail (see illustration).17 Slacken and remove the two retainingscrews and remove the blower motor-to-heater unit duct (see illustration). On modelsequipped with air conditioning, the evaporatorunit is fitted in place of the duct. It may bepossible to gain the necessary clearance

required to disengage the evaporator andremove the blower motor by removing themounting brackets and nuts. If not, theevaporator must be removed.18 Disconnect the air recirculation cableinner from the flap and free the cable outerfrom the blower motor. Disconnect the twoblower motor wiring connectors (seeillustration).19 Slacken and remove the three blowermotor mounting bolts and manoeuvre theblower unit out from underneath the facia (seeillustrations).20 To remove the motor from the unit, undothe four motor cover retaining screws, thendisconnect the breather hose and lift off the

cover. Slacken and remove the three motorretaining bolts and withdraw the motorassembly from the blower unit. Undo the fanretaining nut and separate the fan and motor,noting the seal fitted between the twocomponents (see illustrations).

Heater blower motor resistor21 Remove the glovebox as described inparagraphs 15 and 16.22 Disconnect the wiring connector, thenundo the two retaining screws and remove theresistor from the front of the motor assembly.

Heater valve23 Working in the engine compartment,disconnect the cable inner from the heater


10.20c Undo motor retaining bolts andwithdraw motor from unit

10.20b . . . and disconnect breather hose10.20a Remove motor cover retainingscrews (arrowed) . . .

10.19b . . . and remove unit from behindfacia

10.19a Undo three blower motor mountingbolts (arrowed) . . .

10.18 Disconnect motor wiring connec-tors (A) and air recirculation cable (B)

10.17 . . . then remove blower motor-to-heater unit duct

10.16 Remove glovebox support rail . . .10.15 Glovebox damper retaining screw(arrowed)


valve and free the cable outer from theretaining clip.24 Slacken and remove the bolt securing theheater valve mounting bracket to the enginecompartment bulkhead.25 Either drain the cooling system or clampthe coolant hoses on each side of the coolantvalve to minimise the loss of coolant.26 Slacken the hose retaining clips, thendisconnect both hoses from the coolant valveand remove the valve from the enginecompartment. Mop up any spilt coolantimmediately.

Refitting

Heater unit27 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure that the heater ducts are securely

connected to the unit so that there are noair leaks or gaps.

b) Check the operation of all heater cablesbefore refitting the facia, ensuring that therelevant component moves smoothly fromthe fully open to the fully closed position.If necessary, adjustments can be made byreleasing the relevant retaining clip andrepositioning the cable outer.

c) Ensure that the heater hoses are correctlyreconnected and are securely held by theretaining clips.

d) Tighten the heater lower mounting nut tothe specified torque setting.

e) Refill the cooling system as described inChapter 1.

Heater matrix28 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Heater blower motor29 Refitting is a reversal of the removalsequence, noting the following:a) Ensure that the foam rubber seal is

refitted correctly so that the blowermotor-to-bulkhead aperture is closed off.

b) Tighten the blower motor mounting boltsto the specified torque setting.

c) Ensure that the air recirculation cable andflap functions correctly before refitting theglovebox. If necessary, adjust by releasingthe cable retaining clip and repositioningthe cable outer.

Heater blower motor resistor30 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Heater valve31 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. On completion, check the heatercable operates smoothly and replenish thecooling system.

11 Heater ducts and vents -removal and refitting 3

RemovalFacia ducts1 Remove the facia.

2 The ducts are mounted on the faciaassembly and can be removed individually,once the retaining screws have beenremoved.

Heater unit ducts3 The left-hand heater unit to blower motor duct is removed as described inparagraphs 15 to 17 of Section 10.4 To remove the right-hand duct, first removethe facia. Slacken and remove the retainingscrew which secures the right-hand end of theduct to the mounting bracket and release theradio aerial from the retaining clips on theunderside of the duct. The duct can then bemanoeuvred out of position.5 Removal of the lower ducts which supplyair to the rear passenger footwells is acomplex job, requiring the removal of the frontseats, centre console and the various trimpanels so that the floor carpet can be peeledback, and is therefore not recommended.

Centre console vents6 Remove the centre console.7 The vents can then be unclipped from therear of the front console section and removed.

Facia vents8 The adjustable face-level vents can beremoved by prising them gently out of thefacia until the clips are released, taking carenot to mark the facia.9 The door window demister vents, fitted tothe sides of the facia, can also be prised outof position once the relevant door has beenopened.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

12 Heater controls - removal,refitting and adjustment 3

Removal1 Remove the heater unit.2 Disconnect the heater control cables fromthe heater unit and unclip the control panel.Remove the panel assembly complete withcables (see illustrations).

Refitting and adjustment3 Refit the heater control panel to the heaterunit and reconnect the necessary controlcables to their original positions.4 Check the operation of the control cables,ensuring that they operate smoothly andmove the necessary component from the fullyopen to the fully closed position. Adjustmentscan be made by releasing the cable retainingclip and repositioning the cable outer.5 Once the necessary control cables arefunctioning correctly, refit the heater unit.


10.20e . . . and lift off fan (seal arrowed)10.20d Remove fan retaining nut . . .

12.2b . . . and remove heater control panelwith cables

12.2a Disconnect control cables fromheater unit . . .

3


13 Air conditioning compressordrivebelt - inspection,adjustment and renewal

Refer to Chapter 1 (alternator drivebelt check).

14 Air conditioning refrigerant -level check

Refer to Chapter 1.

15 Air conditioning systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Warning: The air conditioningsystem must be professionallydischarged before carrying outany of the following work. Cap

or plug the pipe lines as soon as they aredisconnected to prevent the entry ofmoisture.

CompressorRemoval1 Remove the alternator/air conditioningcompressor drivebelt as described in Chap-ter 1.2 Disconnect the air conditioning pipes fromthe compressor (see illustration).3 Slacken and remove the four bolts securingthe compressor to the mounting bracket andmanoeuvre it downwards and away from theengine.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reverse of the removalsequence, tightening the compressormounting bolts to the specified torque setting.Ensure that the compressor pipe unions aresecurely tightened then refit and adjust thedrivebelt as described in Chapter 1. Oncompletion, have the air conditioning systemrecharged by a refrigeration specialist orsuitably-equipped Rover dealer.

CondenserRemoval5 Remove the front bumper.6 Slacken and remove the bolts securing thepower steering oil cooler to the body, thenundo the bonnet lock mounting bracket boltsand position the lock assembly clear of thecondenser unit.7 Unscrew the air conditioning pipe unionnuts from the condenser unit then disconnectthe pipes. Discard the union pipe O-rings asthese must be renewed whenever they aredisturbed.8 Slacken and remove the four retaining boltsand withdraw both the condenser uppermounting brackets. Release the condenserfrom its lower mounting points andmanoeuvre it away from the vehicle.

Refitting9 Prior to refitting, check the condenser lowermounting rubbers for signs of damage ordeterioration and renew as necessary. Renewthe pipe union O-rings.10 Refitting is a direct reversal of the removalprocedure, tightening the pipe union nuts tothe specified torque setting. On completion,have the air conditioning system recharged bya refrigeration specialist or a suitablyequipped Rover dealer.

Condenser cooling fan

Removal11 Drain the cooling system.12 Disconnect the wiring connector from theengine overheat switch, located in the topcoolant hose, then slacken the clips securingthe hose to the radiator and engine.Disconnect the hose from the radiator andengine and position it clear of the condenserso that it does not hinder removal.13 Disconnect the condenser fan electricalwiring connector then undo the four fancowling retaining nuts and manoeuvre theassembly out of the engine compartment.

14 To dismantle the assembly, first undo thefan retaining nut then lift the fan off the motorspindle. Undo the two screws which securethe motor assembly to the cowling thenrelease the motor wiring and connector andseparate the motor and cowling.

Refitting15 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the motor wiring is securely

retained by the cowling clips and is clearof the condenser fan.


c) On completion, refill the cooling system.

EvaporatorRemoval16 Undo the three bolts which secure thewasher system reservoir to the enginecompartment bulkhead and move thereservoir to gain access to the two evaporatorunion nuts. Slacken both the union nuts anddisconnect the pipes from the evaporator.Remove the O-rings from the union nuts anddiscard them.


15.2 Air conditioning system layout

1 Compressor2 Condenser3 Receiver drier4 Evaporator

5 Heater unit6 Blower unit7 High pressure servicing

connection

8 Low pressure servicingconnection

9 Trinary switch


17 Working from inside the vehicle, undo thetwo glovebox retaining screws, then partiallywithdraw the glovebox until access can begained to the glovebox damper-to-faciascrew. Undo the damper screw and removethe glovebox and damper.18 Slacken and remove the four gloveboxsupport rail mounting bolts and remove therail.19 Undo the two evaporator bracketretaining bolts and remove both the brackets.20 Disconnect the wiring connector from theright-hand side of the evaporator.21 Slacken and remove the two evaporatormounting nuts and manoeuvre the unit out ofposition.

Refitting22 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure noting the following:a) Ensure that the evaporator is correctly

joined to the heater unit and blowermotor, so that there are no air leaks orgaps, then tighten the retaining nuts andbracket bolts securely.

b) Fit new O-rings to the pipe unions and

tighten the union nuts to the specifiedtorque setting.

c) On completion, have the systemrecharged by a refrigeration specialist or asuitably-equipped Rover dealer.

Receiver drier

Removal23 Remove the left-hand headlamp and thebattery and battery tray.24 Undo the two screws securing the airintake grille to the body. Disengage the grillefrom the resonator and remove it from thevehicle. Move the resonator to one side togain access to the receiver drier.25 Slacken the union nuts and disconnectthe pipes from the receiver drier noting the O-rings which are fitted to the pipe unions.Discard the O-rings as they must be renewedwhenever they are disturbed. The receiverdrier unit unions must be capped immediatelyafter they are disconnected and must remaincapped until they are to be reconnected. If thereceiver drier unit is left uncapped for anyperiod of time it must be renewed.

26 Slacken the receiver drier clamp bolt thenslide the unit out of the retaining clamp andremove it from the engine compartment.

Refitting27 Refitting is a direct reversal of the removalsequence, tightening the pipe union nuts tothe specified torque setting. On completion,have the system recharged by a refrigerationspecialist or suitably-equipped Rover dealer.

Trinary switch

Removal28 Remove the front bumper.29 Disconnect the wiring connector andunscrew the switch from the air conditioningpipe. Remove the O-ring from the switch anddiscard it.

Refitting30 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Fit a new O-ring to the switch andtighten it to the specified torque setting. Oncompletion, have the system recharged by arefrigeration specialist or suitably-equippedRover dealer.


3


3






3•1

Contents
















54321











Precautions









Refer to Chapter 1.









8 Gasket


























3








Refitting















for clarity




removed
























3









Testing
















Removal






Refitting







Removal




ring (C)


(arrowed)


3




































3

















Refitting




























3





Refer to Chapter 1.




















connection


9 Trinary switch








Receiver drier




Trinary switch




3



4A

Chapter 4 Part AFuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 9Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Accelerator pedal switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Air cleaner air temperature control system - inspection and

component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Air cleaner filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Carburettor - diagnosis, overhaul and adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Choke cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Exhaust system - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Inlet manifold pre-heater - operation, removal and refitting . . . . . . . 15

4A•1

Contents

SpecificationsFuel pumpType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical, driven by eccentric on camshaft

CarburettorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hobourn-SU constant-depression/variable chokeDesignation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . KIF 44Carburettor number:

Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MAC 10004 or 10025With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MAC 10011 or 10027

Throttle bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.0 mmPiston spring colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RedDamper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LZX 2337Jet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ZX 2237 (0.100 in)Needle identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BGZNeedle valve seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LZX 1756Fast idle speed - at choke control first detent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 rpmIdle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpmCO level at idle speed - engine at normal operating temperature:

Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 3.0 %With catalytic converter - at gas sampling pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 3.0 %

Choke type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Manual

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating:

Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (ie: unleaded Premium) or 97 RON leaded (ie: 4-star)

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (ie: unleaded Premium)







54321


General informationThe fuel system consists of a fuel tank

mounted under the rear of the vehicle, amechanical fuel pump and a carburettor. Thefuel pump is operated by an eccentric on thecamshaft and is mounted on the rear of thecylinder head. The air cleaner contains adisposable paper filter element andincorporates a flap valve air temperaturecontrol system which allows cold air from theoutside of the vehicle and warm air fromaround the exhaust manifold to enter the aircleaner in the correct proportions.

The carburettor is the Hobourn SU-manufactured KIF type, a development byRover of the previous HIF instrument. Toreduce emissions and to improve driveabilitywhen the engine is cold, the inlet manifold isheated by the cooling system coolant and byan electric pre-heater system. Mixtureenrichment for cold starting is by a manually-operated choke control.

The exhaust system consists of threesections which are the front pipe and frontsilencer box, the intermediate pipe and middle silencer box, and the tailpipe and mainsilencer box. The system is suspendedthroughout its entire length by rubbermountings. If a catalytic converter is fitted, theexhaust system consists of four sections, thecatalytic converter being situated between thefront pipe and the (much shorter) intermediatepipe.

PrecautionsFuel warning

Many of the procedures in this Chapterrequire the removal of fuel lines and

connections which may result in some fuelspillage. Before carrying out any operation onthe fuel system, refer to the precautions givenin Safety first! at the beginning of this Manualand follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highlydangerous and volatile liquid and theprecautions necessary when handling itcannot be overstressed.

Unleaded petrol - usageThe information given in this Chapter is

correct at the time of writing and applies onlyto petrol currently available in the UK. Ifupdated information is required, check with aRover dealer. If travelling abroad, consult oneof the motoring organisations (or a similarauthority) for advice on petrol types availableand their suitability for your vehicle

The fuel recommended by Rover for the214 and 414 models is given in Specifications,followed by the equivalent petrol currently onsale in the UK. RON and MON are differenttesting standards. RON stands for ResearchOctane Number (also written as RM); MONstands for Motor Octane Number (also writtenas MM, which is a different name for the sameoctane scale).

All Rover 214 and 414 models are designed

to run on 95 (RON) octane petrol.Super/Super Plus (unleaded) petrols can beused without modification. If nothing else isavailable, 4-star (leaded) petrol can only beused if the vehicle is not fitted with a catalyticconverter. The only vehicles which must useunleaded petrol at all times are those withcatalytic converters.

Catalytic covertersBefore attempting work on these items,

carefully read the precautions listed in Part Dof this Chapter.

2 Air cleaner filter element -renewal

Refer to Chapter 1.

3 Air cleaner assembly -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Release the two clips securing the air intakeduct to the assembly, then undo the fourscrews securing the assembly to its mountingbracket.2 Release the assembly from the intake ductand withdraw it until the thermac switchvacuum pipes can be reached. Make a note ofthe correct fitted positions of the pipes toensure that they are correctly connected onrefitting (yellow to the temperature controlvalve, red to the inlet manifold) thendisconnect them and withdraw the air cleanerassembly (see illustration).3 Check the condition of the O-ring aroundthe carburettor inlet and renew it if worn ordamaged.


Fuel systemCarburettor retaining screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Carburettor vent and air bleed pipe mounting nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . 9 7Needle retaining (grub) screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 to 2.3 1.3 to 1.7Throttle disc retaining screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80 to 1.14 0.59 to 0.84Fuel pump mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Fuel tank hose retaining clip and union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Manifold temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Inlet manifold support stay bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust systemManifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Manifold shroud screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4System flange nuts:

Manifold-to-front pipe joint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37All other joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Front pipe mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

4A•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines

3.2 Note colour-coding of thermac switchvacuum pipes before disconnecting


4 To remove the metal intake duct,disconnect the vacuum pipe from the airtemperature control valve and slacken theintake hose retaining clamp (see illustration).Undo the fastener securing the duct to itsmounting bracket and remove the metal duct,taking care not to lose the hot air intakeconnector hose which connects the duct tothe exhaust manifold shroud.5 To remove the air intake hose, it will first benecessary to remove the left-hand headlampassembly so as to gain access to the tworetaining screws. Remove the retainingscrews securing the front of the hose to thebody front panel then release the clip securingthe ignition HT lead to the hose. If the metalintake duct is still in position, slacken the hoseclamp then remove the hose from the enginecompartment.6 A resonator chamber is fitted to the intakehose to reduce the amount of induction noise.To remove the chamber, first remove thebattery and battery tray. Disconnect the intakehose and release any relevant retaining clips from the resonator then remove theresonator from the engine compartment.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the vacuum pipes arecorrectly reconnected and are not trapped asthe assembly is refitted, then check that theassembly sits properly on the carburettor inletbefore tightening the screws securely.

4 Air cleaner air temperaturecontrol system - inspectionand component renewal

2Inspection1 The system is controlled by a thermacswitch mounted in the air cleaner assembly.When the engine is started from cold, theswitch is closed to allow inlet manifolddepression to act on the air temperaturecontrol valve in the intake duct. This raises avacuum servo in the valve assembly anddraws a flap valve across the cold air intake,

thus allowing only (warmed) air from aroundthe exhaust manifold to enter the air cleaner.2 As the temperature of the exhaust-warmedair in the air cleaner rises, a bi-metallic strip inthe thermac switch deforms and opens theswitch to shut off the depression in the airtemperature control valve assembly. The flap islowered gradually across the hot air intake until,when the engine is fully warmed-up to normaloperating temperature, only cold air from thefront of the vehicle is entering the air cleaner.3 To check the system, allow the engine tocool down completely, then slacken the intakehose retaining clamp and disconnect the hosefrom the metal intake duct. The flap valve inthe duct should be securely seated across thehot air intake. Start the engine. The flapshould immediately rise to close off the coldair intake and should then lower steadily asthe engine warms up, until it is eventuallyseated across the hot air intake again.4 To check the thermac switch, disconnectthe vacuum pipe from the control valve when the engine is running and place a fingerover the pipe end (see illustration). When theengine is cold, full inlet manifold vacuumshould be present in the pipe. When theengine is at normal operating temperature,there should be no vacuum in the pipe.5 To check the air temperature control valve,slacken the intake hose retaining clamp anddisconnect the hose from the metal intakeduct. The flap valve should be securely seated

across the hot air intake. Disconnect thevacuum pipe and suck hard at the controlvalve stub. The flap should rise to shut off thecold air intake.6 If any component is faulty then it must berenewed.

Thermac switch - renewal7 Remove the air cleaner assembly.8 Release the lid retaining clips then remove thelid and withdraw the air cleaner filter element.9 Bend up the tags on the switch clip andremove the clip, then withdraw the switch andits seal (see illustration).10 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the switch matingsurfaces are clean and that the switch andseal are correctly located before fastening theclip.

Air temperature control valve -renewal11 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the airtemperature control valve, then slacken theintake hose retaining clamp and disconnectthe hose from the metal intake duct (seeillustration).12 Release the two clips securing the airintake duct to the air cleaner assembly andundo the fastener securing the duct to itsmounting bracket. Withdraw the duct, takingcare not to lose the hot air intake connectorhose which connects the duct to the manifoldshroud (see illustration).

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines 4A•3

4.9 Thermac switch is clipped into aircleaner assembly

4.4 Disconnect vacuum pipe from controlvalve to check operation of system

components

3.4 Slacken clamp to disconnect intakehose from air cleaner assembly metal

intake duct

4.12 Do not lose hot air intake connectorhose when removing air cleaner metal

intake duct

4.11 Disconnecting vacuum pipe from airtemperature control valve - intake hose-to-

metal intake duct securing clamp(arrowed)

4A


13 The air temperature control valve can berenewed only with the complete intake ductassembly. If a new intake duct assembly isbeing fitted, undo the four screws securingthe hot air intake adaptor plate to the bottomof the duct and transfer the adaptor plate tothe new duct.14 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

5 Fuel system - inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

6 Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting 2

Testing1 To test the fuel pump on the engine,temporarily disconnect the outlet pipe whichleads to the carburettor and hold a wad of ragover the pump outlet while an assistant spinsthe engine on the starter. Keep your handsaway from the electric cooling fan. Regularspurts of fuel should be ejected as the engineturns.2 The pump can also be tested by removingit. With the pump outlet pipe disconnectedbut the inlet pipe still connected, hold a wad

of rag by the outlet. Operate the pump leverby hand, moving it in and out. If the pump is ina satisfactory condition, a strong jet of fuelshould be ejected.

Removal3 Identify the pump inlet and outlet hosesthen, using a pair of pliers, release theretaining clips and disconnect them from thepump. Place wads of rag beneath the hoseunions to catch any spilled fuel and plug thehose ends to minimise fuel loss (seeillustration).4 Slacken and remove the nuts and washerssecuring the pump to the cylinder head.5 Withdraw the fuel pump from the engineand remove the insulating block (seeillustration).

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Clean the mating surfaces andrenew the insulating block if its sealingsurfaces are marked or damaged. Tighten thepump mounting nuts to the specified torquewrench setting.

7 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 On 214 models, open the tailgate andremove the parcel tray shelf. Fold the rearseats fully forwards then raise the luggagecompartment carpet to gain access to the fuelsender unit access cover.3 On 414 models, open the boot lid and lift upthe luggage compartment carpet to gainaccess to the fuel sender unit access cover.4 On all models, undo the three screws andremove the access cover from the floor (seeillustration).5 Remove the sender unit wiring connectorrubber cover and disconnect the connectorfrom the sender.6 Unscrew the sender unit retaining ring byturning it in an anti-clockwise direction andremove it from the fuel tank. In the absence ofthe special Rover ring spanner, Service toolnumber 18G 1595 (see illustration), a pair ofslip-jointed pliers will serve as an adequatesubstitute to slacken the ring.7 Carefully lift the sender unit, taking greatcare not to bend or damage the sender float,and remove the sealing ring. Examine thesealing ring and renew it if it is worn ordamaged.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the tab on the senderunit is correctly engaged with the cutout in thefuel tank.

8 Fuel tank - removal and refitting 3

Warning: Do not under anycircumstances attempt to solderor weld a fuel tank.

Removal1 Before removing the fuel tank, all fuel mustbe drained from the tank. Since a fuel tankdrain plug is not provided, it is thereforepreferable to carry out the removal operationwhen the tank is nearly empty. Beforeproceeding, disconnect the battery negativelead and syphon or hand pump the remainingfuel from the tank.2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the left-hand rearroadwheel.3 Undo the bolt then slacken and remove thetwo screws securing the cover fitted to theleft-hand side of the fuel tank. Prise out thescrew retaining plugs and remove the cover to


7.6 Using Rover special tool to removefuel gauge sender unit

7.4 Undo three screws to remove fuelgauge sender unit access cover

6.5 Removing fuel pump and insulatingblock

6.3 Plug fuel hoses after disconnection -pump inlet hose disconnected, outlet hose

arrowed


gain access to the fuel tank feed and returnpipes (see illustration).4 Using a suitable pair of pliers, release theretaining clip and disconnect the small sectionof return pipe hose from the fuel tank (seeillustration).5 Slacken the fuel feed pipe union nut anddisconnect the pipe from the union. Undo thetwo union mounting bolts and free the unionfrom the body (see illustration).6 Disconnect the fuel tank wiring blockconnector from the main wiring harness. If theblock connector cannot yet be reached, itmay be disconnected as the tank is loweredout of position.7 Slacken the clamp securing the filler neckhose to the tank and use a pair of pliers torelease the filler neck breather pipe retainingclip (see illustration). Disconnect both thefiller neck hose and breather pipe from thefuel tank.8 Release the fuel tank breather, situateddirectly above the filler neck hose, from thevehicle body.9 Slacken the tank retaining strap locknuts,then unscrew the lower locknuts and removethe straps whilst supporting the tank (seeillustration).10 Lower the fuel tank out of position andremove it from under the vehicle.11 If the tank is contaminated with sedimentor water, remove the sender unit and swill thetank out with clean fuel. If the tank isdamaged or leaks, it should be repaired by a

specialist or alternatively renewed. Do notunder any circumstances attempt to solder orweld a fuel tank.

Refitting12 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten all nuts and bolts to theirspecified torque wrench settings and ensurethat all hoses are correctly routed andsecurely fastened so that there can be no riskof fuel leakage.

9 Accelerator cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 Unscrew the four windscreen wiper motormounting bolts to free the motor from theengine compartment bulkhead.2 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts andfree the cable outer from its mounting bracketon the carburettor. Release the cable innerfrom the accelerator cam (see illustration).3 Work back along the cable outer andrelease it from any retaining clamps and ties.4 Working from inside the vehicle, undo thefive right-hand lower facia panel retainingscrews and remove the panel.5 Release the cable from the upper end of theaccelerator pedal and withdraw the cablefrom the engine compartment.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten the windscreen wipermotor retaining bolts to the specified torque(Chapter 12). Prior to tightening the cablelocknuts, adjust the cable as follows.

Adjustment7 Slacken both locknuts then gently pull upon the cable outer until all free play isremoved from the cable and the acceleratorcam just starts to move.8 Holding the cable in position, screw theupper locknut down until there is a gap ofapproximately 5.0 mm between the loweredge of the nut and the cable mountingbracket. Release the cable then have anassistant depress the accelerator pedal fullyand check that the throttle opens fully andreturns to the at-rest position when the pedalis released. If the throttle operation is correct,hold the upper locknut stationary and tightenthe lower locknut securely.

10 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Working from inside the vehicle, undo thefive right-hand lower facia panel retainingscrews and remove the panel.


8.5 Feed pipe union mounting bolts(arrowed)

8.4 Fuel tank return pipe retaining clip (A)and feed pipe union nut (B)

9.2 Disconnecting accelerator cable fromcarburettor

8.9 Fuel tank mounting strap retaininglocknut

8.7 Slacken filler neck hose retainingclamp (A) and disconnect breather pipe (B)

8.3 Removing cover retaining bolt(arrowed) and screw retaining plugs

4A


2 Release the accelerator cable from theupper end of the pedal and, using a pair ofpliers, unhook the accelerator pedal returnspring.3 Prise off the circlip from the pedal pivot andwithdraw the accelerator pedal from themounting bracket.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Apply a smear of multi-purposegrease to the pedal pivot. On completion,adjust the accelerator cable.

11 Accelerator pedal switch -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Working from inside the vehicle, undo thefive right-hand lower facia panel retainingscrews and remove the panel.2 Using a suitable pair of pliers, unhook theaccelerator pedal return spring from the pedalthen disconnect the accelerator cable fromthe pedal.3 Disconnect the wiring connectors from theaccelerator pedal switch then prise off the C-clip and remove the switch from the mountingbracket. Note the wave washer fitted betweenthe switch and bracket.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure.

12 Choke cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner assembly.2 Free the choke cable outer from itsretaining clip on the carburettor anddisconnect the cable inner from the chokecam (see illustration).3 Work back along the cable outer andrelease it from any retaining clamps and ties.Prise the cable grommet out of the enginecompartment bulkhead.4 Working inside the vehicle, undo the fiveright-hand lower facia panel retaining screwsand remove the panel.5 Using a suitable small screwdriver, slackenand remove the choke knob grub screw thenpull the knob off the cable.6 Unscrew the choke cable retaining nut thenrelease the cable from the facia and disconnectthe choke switch wiring connectors. The cablecan then be withdrawn from the enginecompartment and removed from the vehicle.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. On completion adjust as follows.

Adjustment8 Have an assistant pull the choke control knobfully out and check that the choke cam opens fully. Push the choke knob fully in andcheck that the choke cam returns to the fully-offposition so that there is clearance between thecam and the fast idle adjusting screw. Providingthat the choke cam returns fully, there shouldbe no free play present in the cable.9 The cable is adjusted by releasing thecarburettor clip and repositioning the cableouter.

13 Carburettor - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner assembly.2 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts andfree the cable outer from its mounting bracketon the carburettor. Release the cable innerfrom the accelerator cam.3 Free the choke cable outer from its retainingclip on the carburettor and disconnect thecable inner from the choke cam.4 Make a note of the correct fitted positionsof the two small bore vacuum pipes, to ensurethey are correctly positioned on refitting, thendisconnect them from the carburettor (seeillustration).5 Using pliers, release the retaining clip anddisconnect the fuel feed hose from thecarburettor. Place wads of rag around the unionto catch any spilled fuel and plug the hose assoon as it is disconnected to minimise fuel loss.6 Make a note of the correct fitted positionsof the breather hoses then, where necessary,release the retaining clips and disconnect thethree breather hoses from the carburettor.7 Disconnect the wiring connector from thecarburettor idle bypass solenoid (seeillustration).8 Unscrew the four Torx screws securing thecarburettor manifold adaptor to the inletmanifold and remove the carburettorassembly from the vehicle (see illustrations).Remove the gasket and discard it, as a newone must be used on refitting. Plug the inlet


13.8b . . . and remove carburettorassembly

13.8a Unscrew upper-to-lower inletmanifold Torx screws . . .

13.7 Note connections beforedisconnecting idle bypass solenoid wiring

13.4 Breather hose (A), float chamber ventand full load air bleed hoses (B), idle

bypass solenoid wiring (C) and fuel pumpoutlet hose (D)

12.2 Releasing clip to disconnect chokecable from carburettor - fast idle adjusting

screw arrowed


port with a wad of clean cloth to prevent thepossible entry of foreign matter.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure the carburettor and inlet manifold

sealing faces are clean and flat. Fit a newgasket and tighten the carburettorretaining screws to the specified torque.

b) Use the notes made on dismantling toensure all hoses are refitted to theiroriginal positions and, where necessary,are securely held by their retaining clips.

c) Adjust the choke cable and acceleratorcables.

d) Adjust the idle speed and mixturesettings.

14 Carburettor - diagnosis,overhaul and adjustments 4

Diagnosis1 The SU carburettor does not usually sufferfrom jet blockages and wear is usually onlyfound between the needle and jet, although itis worth checking the fit of the piston in thesuction chamber whenever the carburettor isdismantled. If the idle speed is too high andcannot be reduced by normal adjustment, it isworth checking the throttle disc overrun valvespring (if fitted). If this spring has weakened,the throttle disc must be renewed.2 If a carburettor fault is suspected, alwayscheck first the following:a) That the ignition timing is accurate.b) That the spark plugs are in good condition

and correctly gapped.c) That the accelerator and choke cables are

correctly adjusted.d) That the carburettor piston damper is

topped-up.e) That the float chamber vent hose and

(especially if the mixture is very rich) thefull load air bleed hose are clear.

f) That the air cleaner filter element is clean.3 If the engine is running very roughly, checkthe compression pressures, bearing in mindthe possibility that one of the hydraulictappets might be faulty, thereby producing anincorrect valve clearance.4 If careful checking of all of the aboveproduces no improvement, the carburettormust be removed for cleaning and overhaul.

Overhaul5 A complete strip-down of a carburettor isunlikely to cure a fault which is notimmediately obvious without introducing newproblems. If persistent carburation problemsare encountered, it is recommended that theadvice of a Rover dealer or carburettorspecialist is sought. Most dealers will be ableto provide carburettor re-jetting and servicingfacilities and if necessary, it should be


14.8 SU KIF carburettor assembly

1 Piston damper2 Suction chamber3 C-clip4 Piston5 Piston spring6 Needle retaining (grub)

screw7 Needle spring8 Needle9 Needle guide10 Idle speed screw11 Spring12 Idle speed adjusting knob13 Throttle spindle seal14 Screw15 Throttle disc - with

overrun valve

16 Throttle spindle17 Return spring18 Fast idle lever19 Lockwasher20 Nut21 Fast idle adjusting screw22 Choke assembly23 O-ring24 Throttle return spring lever25 Throttle lever26 O-ring27 Diaphragm28 Idle air bypass screw29 O-ring30 Full load enrichment device31 Spring32 Idle bypass solenoid

33 Float pivot34 Pivot seal35 Carburettor body36 O-ring37 Jet adjusting screw38 Fuel strainer39 Float needle seat40 Float needle41 Float42 Jet bearing43 Jet bearing nut44 Jet45 Bi-metal lever assembly46 Spring47 Jet retaining screw48 O-ring49 Float chamber cover

4A


possible to purchase a reconditionedcarburettor of the relevant type.6 If it is decided to go ahead and service acarburettor, check the cost and availability ofspare parts before commencement. Obtain acarburettor repair kit, which will contain thenecessary gaskets, diaphragms and otherrenewable items.7 When working on carburettors, scrupulouscleanliness must be observed and care mustbe taken not to introduce any foreign matterinto components. Carburettors are delicateinstruments and care should be taken not todisturb any components unnecessarily.8 Referring to the relevent exploded view ofthe carburettor (see illustration on previouspage), remove each component part whilstmaking a note of its fitted position. Makealignment marks on linkages, etc.9 Reassemble the carburettor in the reverseorder to dismantling, using new gaskets, O-rings, etc. Be careful not to kink anydiaphragms.

AdjustmentsIdle speed and mixture10 Refer to Chapter 1.

Fast idle speed11 Check the accelerator and choke cablesare correctly adjusted.12 Warm the engine up to normal operatingtemperature and check that the idle speedand mixture are correctly set.13 Pull out the choke control to the firstdetent position and check that the enginespeed increases to the specified amount.14 If adjustment is required, screw the fastidle adjusting screw in or out until the enginespeed is correct.

Fuel level15 The carburettor fuel level is adjusted bybending the float arm to alter the float height,usually measured with the carburettorinverted. However, since the necessaryinformation is not provided by themanufacturer, the vehicle should be taken to aRover dealer or SU carburettor specialist if thefuel level is thought to be incorrect.

Jet adjustment16 Accurate jet adjustment is not easy for theinexperienced and can only be carried outusing an exhaust gas analyser. If the jetadjustment is thought to be incorrect or is tobe checked, owners without the requiredequipment and the skill to use it are advisedto have the work carried out by a Rover dealeror SU carburettor specialist, otherwiseproceed as follows.17 Warm the engine up to normal operatingtemperature and check that the ignitiontiming, idle speed and mixture are correctlyset and that the carburettor piston damper istopped-up, see Chapter 1.18 Remove the tamperproof cap from the jetadjusting screw recess at the front left-handcorner of the carburettor body.

19 Counting the exact number of turnsrequired to do so, screw the idle air bypassscrew clockwise until it seats lightly, then startthe engine, switch on the headlamps, heatedrear window and heater blower motor (firstspeed only) and adjust the idle speed to 700to 750 rpm.20 Connect the exhaust gas analyserfollowing its manufacturer’s instructions.21 Turning the jet adjusting screw either way(clockwise to richen the mixture) by half a turnat a time and waiting for the analyser readingto respond and stabilise before making afurther alteration, set the mixture to a base COlevel of 5.5 % ± 0.5 %. When the analyserreading is steady at the correct level, switchoff all electrical loads.22 Screw the idle air bypass screw anti-clockwise by the number of turns previouslynoted to return it to its original setting, thenset the true idle mixture to the specified value.23 Stop the engine when the adjustment iscorrect, disconnect the test equipment and fita new tamperproof cap to the jet adjustingscrew recess.

Idle bypass system24 As well as the carburettor idle air bypasspassage and screw, the system incorporatesthe solenoid and the accelerator pedal switch.25 When the accelerator is closed and theignition is switched on the solenoid isenergised, its plunger being retracted to openthe bypass passage. This allows air to bypassthe carburettor piston and thus makes the idlemixture independent of the needle metering.Screwing in (clockwise) the idle air bypassscrew reduces the amount of air bypassingthe piston and richens the idle mixture.26 As soon as the accelerator pedal isdepressed, the accelerator pedal switchopens, the solenoid is de-energised and thebypass passage is shut off.27 To check the system, listen closely by thecarburettor while an assistant switches on theignition and depresses and releases theaccelerator pedal several times. The solenoidshould be heard to be clicking in and out.28 If no clicking is heard, remove the air cleanerassembly and use a meter or similar to checkthe solenoid earth and feed, see Chapter 12.

Use a meter to check that the accelerator pedalswitch contacts open and close. If the solenoidor switch is faulty, then it must be renewed. Notethat if trouble is encountered with an ignitionsystem fuse blowing repeatedly, and the faultcannot otherwise be traced, the solenoid maybe at fault.

15 Inlet manifold pre-heater -operation, removal andrefitting

2Operation1 The system incorporates the manifold PTC(Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater, therelay and the manifold temperature switch.2 When the ignition is switched on and theengine is cold (coolant below 50°C), the relay-energising current flows through the closedmanifold temperature switch contacts, whichthen closes the relay contacts and allowscurrent to flow from the battery to the heater.This ensures that the inlet manifold is warmenough, even before the effect of the coolantheating becomes apparent, to prevent fueldroplets condensing in the manifold, thusimproving driveability and reducing exhaustemissions when the engine is cold.3 As soon as the engine warms up totemperatures above 50°C, the switchcontacts open and the relay cuts off thepower supply to the manifold heater.4 If the engine suddenly develops flat spotswhen cold, the system may be faulty.

PTC heater

Removal5 Drain the cooling system.6 Apply the handbrake then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Access to the PTC heater can then be gainedfrom underneath the vehicle, via the gapbetween the engine and engine compartmentbulkhead.7 Disconnect the wiring connector from theheater terminal then extract the heaterretaining circlip. Withdraw the heater from theunderside of the manifold (see illustrations).


15.7b . . . and remove PTC heater frominlet manifold - manifold removed for

clarity

15.7a Extract circlip . . .


Inspect the heater rubber seal for signs ofdamage or deterioration and renew ifnecessary.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the heater locatingprojection is correctly engaged in the manifoldrecess. On completion, lower the vehicle tothe ground and refill the cooling system.

Pre-heater temperature switch

Removal9 The pre-heater temperature switch is fittedto the underside of the inlet manifold (seeillustration). Either drain the cooling systemor be prepared for some loss of coolant as theswitch is unscrewed.10 Release the wire retaining clip anddisconnect the wiring connector from theswitch.11 Unscrew the switch from the manifold andwithdraw it, then plug the opening to preventthe entry of dirt. If the cooling system has notbeen drained, work quickly to minimisecoolant loss.

Refitting12 Wipe clean the threads of the switch andof the thermostat housing. If a sealing washeris fitted, renew it whenever it is disturbed toprevent leaks. If no sealing washer is fitted,apply a smear of sealant to the switchthreads.13 Refit the switch, working quickly if the

cooling system was not drained, and tightenit. Reconnect the wiring connector.14 Replenish the cooling system.

Manifold heater relay15 Refer to Chapter 12.

16 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 3

Note: The following procedure describesremoval of the manifold with the carburettor.Access to some of the componentsconcerned is much improved if the carburettoris first removed separately and if this is done,the following procedure should be amendedas required.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly.3 Drain the cooling system.4 Disconnect the accelerator and chokecables.5 Slacken the retaining clamps anddisconnect the coolant hoses from the inletmanifold.6 Trace the float chamber vent hose and thefull load air bleed hose from the carburettordown to their metal pipes then unscrew thenut and bolts securing the pipes to thecylinder block/crankcase.7 Using pliers, release the retaining clip and

disconnect the fuel feed hose from thecarburettor. Place wads of rag around theunion to catch any spilled fuel and plug thehose as soon as it is disconnected tominimise fuel loss.8 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from thedistributor vacuum diaphragm unit anddisconnect the breather hose from thecylinder head cover.9 Slacken and remove the brake vacuumservo unit hose union bolt and disconnect thehose. Discard the hose union sealing washerswhich must be renewed whenever they aredisturbed.10 Disconnect the idle bypass solenoidwiring, making notes of the connections sothat they can be correctly reconnected, thendisconnect the wiring from the manifold pre-heater switch and heater which are situatedon the underside of the manifold.11 Undo the single bolt which secures eachmanifold support stay to the cylinderblock/crankcase and slacken the bolts whichsecure the stays to the inlet manifold (seeillustrations).12 Make a final check that all the necessaryfuel/breather hoses have been disconnectedfrom the carburettor/manifold then unscrewthe nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. Manoeuvre the manifold out of the engine compartment anddiscard its gasket.

Refitting13 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustrations):a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder


16.11b Inlet manifold support stay lowerend bolt (arrowed)

16.11a Inlet manifold support stay upperend bolt (arrowed)

15.9 Inlet manifold pre-heater temperatureswitch location

16.13c Inlet manifold tightening sequence- K8 engine

16.13b . . . and fit inlet manifold - lesscarburettor

16.13a Fit a new manifold gasket . . .

4A


head mating surfaces are clean and dry,then fit a new manifold gasket.

b) Working in the sequence shown, tightenthe manifold retaining nuts and boltsevenly to the specified torque wrenchsetting.

c) Ensure all relevant hoses are reconnectedto their original positions and are securelyheld (where necessary) by their retainingclips.

d) Renew the vacuum servo unit vacuumhose banjo union sealing washers andtighten the union bolt.

e) Adjust the accelerator and choke cables.f) On completion, refill the cooling system.

17 Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Remove the air cleaner metal intake ductassembly.3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it on axlestands.4 Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaustfront pipe to the manifold, then disconnect thepipe and collect the gasket.5 Remove the four exhaust manifold shroudretaining screws and remove the shroud.6 Unscrew the nuts securing the manifold tothe cylinder head, then manoeuvre it out ofthe engine compartment. Remove themanifold gasket and discard it.7 Examine all the exhaust manifold studs forsigns of damage and corrosion. Remove alltraces of corrosion and repair or renew anydamaged studs.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustrations):a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder

head sealing faces are clean and flat, thenfit a new manifold gasket.

b) Working in the sequence shown, tightenthe manifold retaining nuts evenly to thespecified torque wrench setting.

c) Tighten all other disturbed nuts and boltsto their specified torque wrench settings(where given).

18 Exhaust system - inspection,removal and refitting 3

Note: If a catalytic converter is fitted to theexhaust system, remember that it is FRAGILE.Do not use hammers, mallets, etc. to strikeany part of the system and take care not todrop it or strike the converter against anythingwhile handling it.

1 On models not equipped with a catalyticconverter the exhaust system is in threesections. All exhaust sections are joined by aflanged joint. If a catalytic converter is fitted, itis situated between the front pipe and the

intermediate pipe, with a flanged joint at eachend. The front pipe then has a gas-samplingtake off point which is fitted to permit mixturechecks using an exhaust gas analyser (seeillustrations).


18.1a Exhaust system components - without catalytic converter

1 Mounting rubber2 Tailpipe3 Nut4 Heatshield5 Bolt6 Intermediate pipe

7 Mounting rubber8 Nut9 Gasket - front pipe to

intermediate pipe10 Front pipe11 Mounting rubber

12 Gasket - front pipe toexhaust manifold

13 Nut14 Bolt (stud replacement)15 Plain washer

17.8b Exhaust manifold tighteningsequence - K8 engine

17.8a Refitting exhaust manifold with newgasket


2 The exhaust system is suspendedthroughout its entire length by rubbermountings (see illustration).

Inspection3 Refer to Chapter 1.

Removal4 Each exhaust section can be removedindividually or, alternatively, the completesystem can be removed as a unit once thefront pipe has been unbolted from themanifold and the system has been freed fromall its mounting rubbers.5 To remove the system or any part of thesystem, first jack up the front or rear of thevehicle and support it on axle stands.Alternatively position the vehicle over aninspection pit or on car ramps.

Front pipe6 Remove the three nuts securing the frontpipe flange joint to the manifold and, wherenecessary, the two bolts securing the frontpipe to its mounting bracket. Separate theflange joint and collect the gasket (seeillustration).7 Free the pipe from its mounting rubber thenundo the three nuts securing the front pipe tothe intermediate pipe/catalytic converter (asapplicable) and manoeuvre the front pipe outfrom under the vehicle (see illustration).

Catalytic converter8 Slacken and remove the two nuts securingthe catalytic converter to the intermediatepipe, then separate the flange joint andrecover the gasket.9 Undo the three nuts securing the converter tothe front pipe then remove it from the vehicle.

Intermediate pipe10 Slacken the two nuts securing the tailpipeflange joint to the intermediate pipe andseparate the flange joint.11 Undo the three nuts securing theintermediate pipe to the front pipe, or the twonuts securing the pipe to the catalyticconverter (as applicable).12 Free the intermediate pipe from all itsmounting rubbers and manoeuvre it out fromunder the vehicle.


18.1b Exhaust system components - with catalytic converter

1 Mounting rubber2 Tailpipe3 Nut4 Heatshield5 Bolt6 Intermediate pipe7 Mounting rubber8 Nut9 Gasket - catalytic converter

to intermediate pipe

10 Catalytic converter11 Gasket - front pipe to

catalytic converter12 Front pipe13 Nut14 Mounting rubber15 Gas sampling pipe - open

loop system

16 Gas sampling pipe sealingscrew - open loop system

17 Blanking plug - closedloop system

18 Gasket - front pipe toexhaust manifold

19 Nut20 Bolt (stud replacement)21 Plain washer

18.7 Front pipe-to-intermediate pipeflange joint and mounting rubber

18.6 Front pipe-to-manifold flange joint18.2 Exhaust system rubber mounting

4A


Tailpipe13 Remove the two nuts securing the tailpipeflange joint to the intermediate pipe andseparate the joint (see illustration).14 Unhook the tailpipe from its three mountingrubbers and remove it from the vehicle.15 If the threads of the intermediate pipe totailpipe studs are damaged, or the studs snapwhen the nuts are being undone, the studscan be knocked out of position and replacedwith bolts.

Refitting16 Each section is refitted by a reverse of theremoval sequence, noting the following:

a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion havebeen removed from the flanges.

b) Renew all necessary gaskets.c) Inspect all rubber mountings for signs of

damage or deterioration and renew asnecessary.

d) Tighten all flange nuts by hand only to locate the disturbed section in position, then ensure all exhaust system rubber mountings are correctlyseated.

e) Check that there is adequate clearancebetween the exhaust system and vehicleunderbody before tightening all flangenuts to the specified torque.


18.13 Tailpipe-to-intermediate flange joint



4B

Chapter 4 Part B Fuel and exhaust systems -single-point fuel injection engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 11Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Air cleaner air temperature control system - inspection and

component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Air cleaner filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Exhaust system - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 15

Fuel injection system components - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel system - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel system - pressure check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold pre-heater - operation, removal and refitting . . . . . . . 16Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Throttle housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

4B•1

Contents

SpecificationsSystemType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System, using ECU-

controlled single-point injection (MEMS-SPi) and speed/densitymethod of airflow measurement

MEMS-SPi system dataFuel pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric, immersed in fuel tankFuel pump pressure:

Maximum - at 16 volts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7 barRegulated constant pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.2 bar

Injector/pressure regulator assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JZX 3028Throttle potentiometer voltage:

Throttle closed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 1 voltThrottle open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 volts

Idle speed - nominal value given for reference purposes only . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpmCO level at idle speed - engine at normal operating temperature:

Without catalytic converter - at tailpipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 2.0 %With catalytic converter - at gas-sampling pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 2.0 %

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating:

Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (ie: unleaded Premium) or 97 RON leaded (ie: 4-star)

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (ie: unleaded Premium)







54321


Fuel systemInjector housing fuel pipe union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Injector housing fuel pipe adaptors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Injector housing screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4Throttle housing retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Fuel system pressure release bolt - models without catalytic converter12 9Fuel pump retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Vent valve and hose retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7ECU retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Intake air temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Coolant temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Inlet manifold support stay bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust systemOxygen (lambda) sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Exhaust manifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Exhaust manifold shroud screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Exhaust system flange nuts:


Exhaust front pipe mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

4B•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injection engines



General informationThe fuel system consists of a fuel tank

mounted under the rear of the vehicle with anelectric fuel pump immersed in it, a fuel filter,fuel feed and return lines and the throttle bodyassembly (which incorporates the single fuelinjector and the fuel pressure regulator), aswell as the Engine Management ElectronicControl Unit (ECU) and the various sensors,electrical components and related wiring. TheECU fully controls both the ignition systemand the fuel injection system, integrating thetwo in a complete engine managementsystem (see illustration). Refer to Chapter 5for information on the ignition side of thesystem.

The Rover/Motorola Modular EngineManagement System uses ECU-controlledsingle-point injection (MEMS-SPi) and thespeed/density method of airflowmeasurement. The whole system is bestexplained if considered as three sub-systemswhich are, the fuel delivery, air metering andelectrical control systems.

The fuel delivery system incorporates thefuel tank with an electric fuel pump, which isimmersed in a swirl pot to prevent aeration ofthe fuel, inside it. When the ignition isswitched on, the pump is supplied withcurrent via the fuel pump relay, under thecontrol of the ECU. The pump feeds petrol viaa non-return valve (to prevent fuel draining outof the system components and back to thetank when the pump is not working) to the fuelfilter and from the filter to the injector. Fuelpressure is controlled by the pressureregulator, which lifts to allow excess fuel to 1.0 Fuel and ignition system components - MEMS-SPi

1 Accelerator pedalswitch

2 Fuel cut-out inertiaswitch

3 Fuel pump4 Throttle

potentiometer5 Fuel pressure

regulator6 Injector7 Stepper motor8 Intake air temperature

sensor9 Inlet manifold PTC

heater10 Coolant

temperature sensor

11 Distributor12 Crankshaft sensor13 Diagnostic connector14 Engine management

ECU15 Main relay16 Fuel pump relay17 Inlet manifold PTC

heater relay18 Ignition HT coil19 Lambda sensor -

models equipped withcatalytic converter

20 Lambda sensor relay -models equipped withcatalytic converter

21 Purge valve (wherefitted)

22 Charcoal canister(where fitted)

return to the tank swirl pot, where a venturicauses the returning fuel to draw cool fuelfrom the tank into the swirl pot. In the event ofsudden deceleration (ie: an accident) aninertia switch cuts off the power to the pumpso that the risk of fire is minimised from fuelspraying out of broken fuel lines underpressure.

The air metering system includes the intakeair temperature control system and the aircleaner, but the main components are in thethrottle body assembly. This incorporates theinjector, which sprays fuel onto the back ofthe throttle disc, the throttle potentiometer,which is linked to the throttle disc spindle andsends the ECU information on the rate ofthrottle opening by transmitting a varyingvoltage, and the stepper motor, which iscontrolled by the ECU and operates thethrottle disc spindle lever via a cam andpushrod to provide idle speed control. Notethat there is no provision for adjustment of theidle speed except by reprogramming the ECUusing Rover diagnostic equipment. If checkingidle speed, remember that it will varyconstantly under ECU control.

The electrical control system consists of theECU, with all the sensors that provide it withinformation, and the actuators by which itcontrols the whole system’s operation. TheECU’s manifold absolute pressure sensor isconnected, by hoses and a fuel (vapour) trapmounted in the air cleaner assembly, to theinlet manifold. Variations in manifold pressureare converted into graduated electrical signalswhich are used by the ECU to determine theload on the engine. The intake air temperaturesensor is self-explanatory, the crank-shaft sensor gives it the engine speed andcrankshaft position, the coolant temperaturesensor gives it the engine temperature and theaccelerator pedal switch tells it when the accelerator is closed. The throttlepotentiometer is explained above and thelambda sensor (where fitted) in Part D of thisChapter. In addition, the ECU senses batteryvoltage (adjusting the injector pulse width tosuit and using the stepper motor to increasethe idle speed and, therefore, the alternatoroutput if it is too low), incorporates short-circuit protection and diagnostic capabilitiesand can both receive and transmit information

via the diagnostic connector, thus permittingengine diagnosis and tuning by Roverdiagnostic equipment. If either the coolanttemperature sensor, the intake airtemperature sensor or the manifold absolutepressure sensor circuits should fail to provideadequate information, the ECU has a back-upfacility which assumes a value correspondingto a coolant temperature of 60ºC, an intake airtemperature of 35ºC and an engine loadbased on the engine speed and throttleposition. These are used to implement aback-up air/fuel mixture ratio.

All these signals are compared by the ECU,using digital techniques, with set values pre-programmed (mapped) into its memory.Based on this information, the ECU selectsthe response appropriate to those values andcontrols the ignition HT coil (varying theignition timing as required), the fuel injector(varying its pulse width - the length of time theinjector is held open - to provide a richer orweaker mixture, as appropriate), the steppermotor (controlling the idle and fast idlespeeds), the fuel pump relay (controlling thefuel delivery), the manifold heater relay(controlling the inlet manifold pre-heatersystem) and the main relay, the purge controlvalve (where fitted) and the lambda sensorand relay (where fitted) accordingly. Themixture, idle speed and ignition timing areconstantly varied by the ECU to provide thebest settings for cranking, starting and enginewarm-up (with either a hot or cold engine),idle, cruising and acceleration. A rev-limitercircuit is built into the ECU which switches offthe injector earth (ie: the fuel supply) if enginespeed exceeds 6860 rpm, switching it backon at 6820 rpm. The injector earth is alsoswitched off on the overrun (coolanttemperature above 80ºC, throttle pedal switchcontacts closed, engine speed above1500 rpm) to improve fuel economy andreduce exhaust emissions.

The ECU idle control is an adaptive systemwhich learns the engine load and wearcharacteristics over a period of time andadjusts the idle speed to suit. If the ECU isrenewed, or one from another vehicle is fitted,it will take a short period of normal driving for

the new ECU to learn the engine’scharacteristics and restore full idle control.

To reduce emissions and to improvedriveability when the engine is cold, the inletmanifold is heated by the cooling systemcoolant and by an electric pre-heater system.Mixture enrichment for cold starting is a pre-programmed function of the system.

The air cleaner contains a disposable paperfilter element and incorporates a flap valve airtemperature control system which allows cold air from the outside of the vehicle andwarm air from the exhaust manifold to enterthe air cleaner in the correct proportions.

The exhaust system is as described in PartA of this Chapter.

Precautions

Fuel injection systemResidual pressure will remain in the fuel

lines long after the vehicle was last used,therefore extra care must be taken whendisconnecting a fuel line hose. Loosen anyfuel hose slowly to avoid a sudden release ofpressure which may cause fuel spray. As anadded precaution, place a rag over eachunion as it is disconnected to catch any fuelwhich is forcibly expelled.

Fuel usageRefer to Part A of this Chapter.

Catalytic convertersBefore attempting work on these items,



Refer to Chapter 1.


Removal1 Release the two clips securing the air intakeduct to the assembly, then undo the threescrews securing the assembly to the throttlebody (see illustration).2 Release the assembly from the intake ductand withdraw it, collecting the throttle housingseal and the intake duct sealing ring (wherefitted), then disconnect the following (seeillustration):a) The thermac switch vacuum pipes. These

are colour-coded (yellow to thetemperature control valve, red to the inletmanifold).

b) The ECU manifold absolute pressuresensor fuel trap vacuum hoses. These arecolour-coded (green to the ECU, white tothe inlet manifold).

c) The intake air temperature sensor wiring.

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injection engines 4B•3

3.2 Thermac switch vacuum pipes (A), fueltrap vacuum hoses (B), intake air

temperature sensor wiring (C) and throttlehousing seal (D)

3.1 Releasing clips to separate intake ductfrom air cleaner

4B


3 Check the condition of the throttle housingseal and the intake duct O-ring (where fitted).Renew either if worn or damaged.4 To remove the metal intake duct, refer toSection 4, paragraphs 3 and 4.5 To remove the air intake hose it will first benecessary to remove the left-hand headlampassembly, to gain access to the two retainingscrews. Remove the two retaining screws anddisconnect the duct from the body frontpanel, release the clip securing the ignition HTlead, then slacken the retaining clamp andunfasten the rubber strap to separate the coldair duct from the intake duct. Release theintake hose from the resonator T-piece andremove it from the engine compartment.6 A resonator chamber is fitted to the intakehose to reduce the amount of induction noise.To remove the chamber, first remove thebattery and battery tray. Disconnect the intakehose from the T-piece then remove theresonator T-piece. Release any relevantretaining clips from the resonator, thenremove the resonator from the enginecompartment (see illustrations).

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the vacuum pipes andhoses are correctly reconnected and are nottrapped as the assembly is refitted, thencheck that the assembly sits properly on thethrottle body before tightening the screwssecurely.

4 Air cleaner air temperaturecontrol system - inspectionand component renewal

2Inspection1 Refer to Section 4 in Part A of this Chapter.

Thermac switch - renewal2 Refer to Section 4 in Part A of this Chapter,removing the air cleaner assembly asdescribed in the previous Section.

Air temperature control valve -renewal3 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the airtemperature control valve, then slacken theintake hose retaining clamp. Release theintake hose rubber retaining strap anddisconnect the hose from the metal intakeduct (see illustration).4 Release the two clips securing the air intakeduct to the air cleaner assembly and undo thebolt securing the duct to its mounting bracket(see illustration). Withdraw the duct, takingcare not to lose the hot air intake connectorhose which connects the duct to the exhaustmanifold shroud.5 The air temperature control valve can berenewed only with the complete intake ductassembly. If a new intake duct assembly isbeing fitted, undo the three screws securing

the hot air intake adaptor plate to the bottomof the duct and transfer the adaptor plate tothe new duct.6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.


Refer to Chapter 1.

6 Fuel system -depressurisation 2

Warning: The followingprocedure will merely relieve thepressure in the fuel system.Remember that fuel will still be

present in the system components andtake precautions accordingly beforedisconnecting any of them.

1 The fuel system referred to in this Section isdefined as the tank-mounted fuel pump, thefuel filter, the fuel injector and the pressureregulator in the injector housing, and themetal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel linesbetween these components. All these containfuel which will be under pressure while theengine is running and/or while the ignition isswitched on. The pressure will remain forsome time after the ignition has beenswitched off and must be relieved before anyof these components are disturbed forservicing work.

Models with a catalyticconverter2 On models equipped with a catalyticconverter, the system is depressurised via thesmall bolt fitted to the fuel filter inlet (feed)union nut.3 Position wads of rag around the union tocatch the spilled fuel and slowly slacken thebolt.4 Once all pressure has been released,remove the bolt. Inspect the sealing washerfor signs of wear or damage and renew ifnecessary.5 Refit the bolt and sealing washer to theunion nut and tighten it securely.

Models without a catalyticconverter6 On models not fitted with a catalyticconverter, the system is depressurised via thebolt in the metal fuel filter outlet pipe.7 Position wads of rag around the pipe tocatch the spilled fuel as the bolt is removed.Carefully slacken the bolt whilst holding thefuel pipe boss with an open-ended spanner to


4.4 Unfastening intake duct-to-supportbracket retaining bolt

4.3 Unfastening cold air intake ductrubber strap - vacuum pipe (A) and clamp

screw (B)

3.6b . . . then remove resonator3.6a Remove T-piece . . .


prevent any undue strain being placed on thefuel pipe (see illustration).8 Once all pressure has been relieved,remove the bolt and inspect the sealingwasher for signs of wear or damage andrenew if necessary. 9 Refit the bolt and washer to the fuel pipeand tighten it to the specified torque wrenchsetting whilst using a spanner to counter-holdthe pipe boss, to prevent the pipe or filterbeing damaged.

7 Fuel system - pressure check

1 The following procedure is based on theuse of the Rover pressure gauge and adaptor(Service tool numbers 18G 1500 and 18G 1500/3).2 Depressurise the fuel system.3 Unscrew the pressure release bolt andscrew in the adaptor, then connect thepressure gauge.4 Turn the engine over on the starter motor.The pressure should reach the specified

value. Stop cranking the engine and watch thegauge. The pressure drop in the first minuteshould not exceed 0.7 bar.5 If the pressure first recorded was too high,renew the pressure regulator, which meansrenewing the complete injector housingassembly.6 If the pressure first recorded was too low orif it falls too quickly, check the systemcarefully for leaks. If no leaks are found, checkthe pump by substituting a new one, thenrecheck the pressure. If the pressure does notimprove, the fault is in the pressure regulatorand the complete injector housing assemblymust be renewed. If this is the case, it is worthdismantling the regulator to check that thefault is not due to its being jammed open withdirt.

8 Fuel pump - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the fuel tank.2 Release the clips securing the tank venthose to the fuel tank breather and fuel cut-offvalve, then disconnect the hose. Undo thevent hose and valve retaining nuts, thendisconnect the vent valve hose from the fuelpump and remove the vent hose and valveassembly from the tank (see illustration).3 Disconnect the wiring connector from thefuel pump.4 Slacken and remove the six fuel pumpretaining nuts. Carefully withdraw the fuelpump assembly from the tank and remove the pump seal.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalsequence, noting the following:

a) Renew the pump seal if there is any doubtas to its condition.

b) Tighten all retaining nuts to the specifiedtorque setting.

c) Ensure that the vent hoses are correctlyconnected and are securely held by anynecessary retaining clips.

9 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting

Refer to Section 7 in Part A of this Chapter.

10 Fuel tank - removal and refitting

1 Refer to Section 8 in Part A of this Chapter.Note that the fuel system must bedepressurised before any fuel hose isdisconnected.


Removal1 Remove the four windscreen wiper motormounting bolts to free the motor from theengine compartment bulkhead.2 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts andfree the cable outer from its mounting bracket.Release the cable inner from the throttle cam(see illustration).3 Work back along the cable outer andrelease it from any retaining clamps.4 Working inside the vehicle, undo the fiveright-hand lower facia panel retaining screwsand remove the panel.5 Release the cable from the upper end of theaccelerator pedal and withdraw the cablefrom the engine compartment.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten the windscreen wipermotor retaining bolts to the specified torque


6.7 Slackening pressure release bolt todepressurise fuel system - non-catalyst

system

11.2 Disconnecting accelerator cable fromthrottle cam pulley

8.2 Fuel pump connections

4B


3 Tank vent hose4 Vent pipe nuts5 Vent valve nut6 Cut-off valve hose7 Pump multiplug8 Pump housing nuts9 Pump housing seal

(Chapter 12) and prior to tightening the cablelocknuts, adjust the cable as follows.

Adjustment7 With the pedal fully released, check thatthere is equal clearance on each side of thethrottle lever at the lost motion link (seeillustration) and no slack in the cable. Havean assistant fully depress the pedal and checkthat the throttle cam opens fully, then checkthat it returns to the at-rest position whenreleased.8 To adjust the cable, switch on the ignitionand position the stepper motor by moving thecam only to open, and fully close the throttle.Note that it is essential for accuratepositioning of the stepper motor that theaccelerator pedal switch contacts remainclosed, so that the ECU recognises thethrottle movement as a command andindexes the stepper motor to 25 steps.9 Slacken the adjuster locknut (upper nut),then tighten the adjuster (lower) nut until theclearance is equal on each side of the throttle

lever at the lost motion link. Tighten thelocknut without disturbing this setting.Recheck the adjustment and switch off theignition.

12 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting


13 Throttle housing - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Depressurise the fuel system.2 Disconnect the battery negative terminaland remove the air cleaner assembly.3 Examine the injector housing fuel pipe feedand return unions for signs of leakage, thenwipe them clean.4 Using a spanner to hold each adaptor,unscrew the pipe union nuts and release thefuel feed and return pipes from the adaptors.Plug each pipe and adaptor to minimise theloss of fuel and prevent the entry of dirt intothe system.5 Release the wire retaining clips thendisconnect the wiring connectors from theinjector housing, the throttle potentiometerand the stepper motor.6 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts andfree the cable outer from its mounting bracket.Release the cable inner from the throttle cam.7 Using a suitable pair of pliers, release theretaining clips and disconnect the breatherhoses from the throttle housing (seeillustration).8 Slacken and remove the four nuts securingthe throttle housing to the inlet manifold, thenremove the throttle housing from the vehicle.Remove the throttle housing insulating spacerand examine it for signs of wear or damage,renewing it if necessary (see illustrations).9 If leakage was detected from the feed andreturn pipes or their union nuts, check thesealing surfaces of the nuts and adaptors and

renew the adaptor or the pipe assembly, asnecessary.10 If leakage is detected from the adaptors,unscrew each through one turn with aspanner, then through two turns by hand. Ifthe adaptor is still a tight fit in the housing, thethreads are damaged and the housing andadaptors must be renewed as a set. If thethreads are sound, fit new sealing washers tothe adaptors and refit them, tightening themto their specified torque wrench setting.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reverse of the removalsequence, noting the following:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

throttle housing and inlet manifold areclean then fit the insulating spacer.

b) Tighten the throttle housing and fuel pipeunion nuts to their specified torquesettings.

c) On completion, reconnect and adjust theaccelerator cable.

14 Fuel injection systemcomponents - testing 5

1 If a fault appears in the engine management(ignition/fuel injection) system, first ensurethat the fault is not due to poor maintenance.That is, check that the air cleaner filterelement is clean, the spark plugs are in goodcondition and correctly gapped, and that theengine breather hoses are clear andundamaged. Also check that the throttle cableis correctly adjusted. If the engine is runningvery roughly, check its compressionpressures, bearing in mind that possibly oneof the hydraulic tappets might be faulty,producing an incorrect valve clearance.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably-equipped Rover dealer for testing. Awiring block connector is incorporated in theengine management circuit into which aspecial electronic diagnostic tester can beplugged. The tester will locate the fault quicklyand simply, thereby alleviating the need totest all the system components individually


13.8b . . . and remove throttle body gasketspacer

13.8a Lift throttle body assembly awayfrom inlet manifold . . .

13.7 Disconnecting breather hoses fromthrottle housing


11.7 Accelerator cable adjustment

1 Throttle lever to lost motion link clearanceshould be equal on each side

2 Adjuster nut3 Adjuster locknut

which is a time consuming operation thatcarries a high risk of damaging the ECU.3 If necessary, the system wiring and wiringconnectors can be checked as described inChapter 12. Ensure that the ECU wiringconnectors have first been disconnected.

15 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal andrefitting

3Injector housing

Removal1 Carry out the operations described inparagraphs 1 to 4 of Section 13 (seeillustration).2 Release the wire retaining clip anddisconnect the wiring connector from theinjector housing (see illustration).3 Remove the four screws securing theinjector housing to the throttle body, then liftoff the injector housing and remove thegasket (see illustrations).4 If leakage was detected from the fuel feedand/or return pipes, perform the checksdescribed in paragraph 9 of Section 13.

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, noting the following:

a) Ensure the injector and throttle housingmating surfaces are clean, then fit a newgasket.

b) Apply thread locking compound (Roverrecommend Loctite Screwlock or Nutlock)to the threads of the injector housingscrews, then tighten them to the specifiedtorque.

c) Tighten the fuel pipe union nuts to thespecified torque setting.

Fuel injectorRemoval6 Note that as a Rover replacement part, theinjector is available only as part of the injectorhousing. Commence removal bydepressurising the fuel system.7 Disconnect the battery negative terminalthen remove the air cleaner assembly.8 Slacken and remove the injector connectorcap retaining screw and lift off the connectorcap. The injector can then be lifted out of thehousing (see illustrations).Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the connector cap makes good contact with the injectorpins.

Fuel pressure regulator10 The fuel pressure regulator is available

only as part of the injector housing assembly.Refer to paragraphs 1 to 5 for details onremoval and refitting.

Stepper motor

Removal11 Remove the injector housing as describedin paragraphs 1 to 4.12 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe stepper motor wiring connector (seeillustration).13 Remove the four stepper motor retainingscrews and remove the stepper motorassembly from the throttle housing (see


15.3a Injector housing-to-throttle bodyscrews (A), connector cap screw (B) and

pressure regulator screws (C)

15.3b Remove injector housing fromthrottle body - noting gasket

15.2 Disconnecting wiring connector frominjector housing

15.1 Disconnecting fuel feed and returnpipes from injector housing

15.12 Disconnecting stepper motor wiringconnector

15.8b . . . and withdraw injector15.8a Remove screw then lift off injectorconnector cap . . .

4B


illustrations). Do not attempt to dismantle theassembly.

Refitting14 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the throttle housingand motor mating surfaces are clean and oncompletion, adjust the throttle cable to ensurethat the stepper motor is correctly indexed.

Throttle potentiometer

Removal15 Although not strictly necessary, access isgreatly improved if the air cleaner assembly isfirst removed.

16 Disconnect the battery negative lead.17 Release the wire retaining clip anddisconnect the potentiometer wiringconnector (see illustration).18 Remove the two screws and remove thepotentiometer from the throttle housing,noting how its tongue engages with thethrottle disc spindle lever. Withdraw thespacer if required.

Refitting19 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustration):a) Carefully clean the mating surfaces of the

throttle body, the spacer and thepotentiometer, then refit the spacer.

b) Refit the potentiometer so that its tongueengages FORWARD of (ie: inside) thethrottle disc spindle lever, then rotate thethrottle cam to check the action of thelever and tongue.

c) Securely tighten the potentiometerscrews then recheck the potentiometeroperation before reconnecting the wiringconnector.

Engine management(ignition/fuel injection) ECU

Removal20 Disconnect the battery negative terminaland unplug the wiring connector(s) from theECU (see illustration).

21 Disconnect the absolute pressure sensorvacuum hose from the unit, then undo thethree retaining nuts and remove the ECU fromthe engine compartment (see illustrations).

Refitting22 Refitting is a reverse of the removalsequence. Tighten the ECU retaining nuts tothe specified torque. Due to the nature of theECU, if a new or different ECU has been fitted,it may take a short while for full idle control tobe restored.

Manifold absolute pressuresensor23 This is part of the ECU and is removedand refitted as described above.24 The sensor’s vacuum hose runs from theinlet manifold to the ECU via a fuel (vapour)trap mounted in the air cleaner assembly.25 To remove the fuel trap, remove the aircleaner assembly cover, release the clips anddisconnect the hoses, then remove the singleretaining screw and withdraw the trap.26 On refitting, note that the hoses arecolour-coded (green to the ECU, white to theinlet manifold) to ensure correct reconnection(see illustration).

Intake air temperature sensor

Removal27 Disconnect the battery negative lead.


15.21b . . . then undo ECU mounting nuts(arrowed) and remove unit

15.21a . . . and absolute pressure sensorvacuum hose from ECU . . .

15.20 Disconnect wiring connector . . .

15.19 Ensure potentiometer tongueengages correctly with throttle lever

(spacer arrowed)

15.17 Disconnecting throttlepotentiometer wiring connector (mounting

screws arrowed)

15.13b . . . and remove stepper motorassembly

15.13a Undo stepper motor retainingscrews (arrowed) . . .


28 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct(see illustration).29 Release the wire clip and disconnect thesensor wiring.30 Unscrew the sensor and remove it fromthe air cleaner housing.

Refitting31 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten the sensor to its specifiedtorque wrench setting.

Coolant temperature sensor

Removal32 The coolant temperature sensor is fittedto the underside of the inlet manifold (seeillustration). Either drain the cooling systemor be prepared for some loss of coolant as thesensor is unscrewed.33 Release the wire retaining clip anddisconnect the wiring connector from thesensor.34 Unscrew the sensor from the manifoldand withdraw it, then plug the opening toprevent the entry of dirt. If the cooling systemhas not been drained, work quickly tominimise coolant loss.

Refitting35 Wipe clean the threads of the sensor andof the thermostat housing. If a sealing washeris fitted, renew it whenever it is disturbed to

prevent leaks. If no sealing washer is fitted,apply a smear of sealant to the sensorthreads.36 Refit the sensor, working quickly if thecooling system was not drained, and tighten itto the specified torque. Reconnect the wiringconnector.37 Replenish the cooling system.

Accelerator pedal switch38 Refer to Section 11 in Part A of thisChapter.

Fuel cut-off inertia switch39 The fuel cut-off inertia switch is locatedbehind the centre console where it is mountedon the steering column support bracket. If theswitch has tripped, it can be reset by pressingin the plunger situated at the top of the switch(see illustration).

Removal40 Remove the centre console.41 Disconnect the wiring connector, thenundo the switch mounting bracket retainingnut and remove the switch (see illustrations).

Refitting42 Refitting is a reverse of the removalsequence. Before installing the centreconsole, reset the inertia switch by pressing inthe plunger.

Relays43 Refer to Chapter 12 for furtherinformation.


1 Refer to Section 15 in Part A of thisChapter. Note that there is no separatemanifold pre-heater temperature switch. TheECU uses the information sent from thecoolant temperature sensor (see illustration).


15.32 Coolant temperature sensor(arrowed)

15.39 Reset fuel cut-off inertia switch bydepressing plunger

15.28 Remove air cleaner metal intakeduct to gain access to intake air

temperature sensor

15.26 Absolute pressure sensor fuel traphoses are colour-coded to ensure correct

refitting

16.1 Inlet manifold partially removed toshow manifold PTC heater and coolant

temperature sensor (arrowed)

15.41b . . . and remove switch15.41a Undo inertia switch retaining nut . . .

4B



Removal1 Remove the throttle housing.2 Drain the cooling system.3 Slacken the retaining clamps anddisconnect the coolant hoses from the inletmanifold (see illustration).4 Slacken and remove the brake vacuumservo unit hose union bolt and disconnect thehose (see illustration). Discard the hoseunion sealing washers which must berenewed whenever they are disturbed.5 Undo the single bolt securing eachmanifold support stay to the cylinderblock/crankcase and slacken the bolts whichsecure the stays to the inlet manifold.6 Make a final check that all the necessaryvacuum hoses have been disconnected fromthe manifold then unscrew the nuts and boltssecuring the manifold to the cylinder head.

Manoeuvre the manifold out of the enginecompartment and discard the manifold gasket(see illustrations).

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (see illustration):a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder

head mating surfaces are clean and dry,then fit a new manifold gasket.

b) Working in the sequence shown, tighten themanifold retaining nuts and bolts evenly, tothe specified torque wrench setting.

c) Ensure all relevant hoses are reconnected totheir original positions and are securely held(where necessary) by the retaining clips.

d) Renew the vacuum servo unit vacuumhose banjo union sealing washers andtighten the union bolt securely.

e) On completion, refill the cooling system.


17.7 Inlet manifold tightening sequence - K16 engine

17.6b Remove inlet manifold and withdraw gasket17.6a Ensure all vacuum pipes and hoses are disconnected

17.4 . . . and brake servo vacuum hose from inlet manifold17.3 Disconnect coolant hoses (arrowed) . . .



Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. Firmlyapply the handbrake then jack up the front ofthe vehicle and support it on axle stands.2 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct.Undo the two bolts securing the ductmounting bracket to the cylinder head coverand remove the bracket.3 Undo the two bolts securing the upperradiator mountings to the bonnet platform,then remove the mountings and tilt theradiator forward to gain the clearancenecessary to remove the manifold.4 Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaustfront pipe to the manifold, then disconnect thepipe and collect the gasket.5 Undo the five nuts securing the exhaustmanifold to the cylinder head, then carefullymanoeuvre the manifold out of the enginecompartment. Remove the manifold gasketand discard it.6 Examine all the exhaust manifold studs forsigns of damage and corrosion. Remove alltraces of corrosion and repair or renew anydamaged studs.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustration):a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder


b) Working in the sequence shown, tightenthe manifold retaining nuts evenly to thespecified torque wrench setting.


19 Exhaust system - inspection,removal and refitting

1 Refer to Section 18 in Part A of thisChapter. Note that on models fitted with aclosed-loop catalytic converter, the lambdasensor must be removed or its wiringdisconnected whenever the exhaust system front pipe is disconnected from themanifold.


4B


18.7 Exhaust manifold tightening sequence - K16 engine


4C

Chapter 4 Part CFuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines

Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Air cleaner filter element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 10Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Exhaust system - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 14Fuel injection system components - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Fuel system - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Fuel system - pressure check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold pre-heater - operation, removal and refitting . . . . . . . 15Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Throttle housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

4C•1

Contents

SpecificationsSystemType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System, using ECU-

controlled multi-point injection (MEMS-MPi) and speed/densitymethod of airflow measurement

MEMS-MPi system dataFuel pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric, immersed in fuel tankFuel pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 ± 0.2 bar constantMEMS - ECU assembly:

Alloy inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 101470Plastic inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MKC 101730

Injectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MJY 10015Throttle potentiometer voltage:

Throttle closed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 1 voltThrottle open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 volt

Idle speed - nominal value given for reference purposes only . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpmCO level at idle speed — engine at normal operating temperature . . . . 0.5 %

Recommended fuelMinimum octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (ie: unleaded Premium) only


Fuel systemECU mounting bracket nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Vent valve-to-fuel tank nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Vent pipe-to-fuel tank nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Fuel pump-to-fuel tank nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Fuel filter pressure release union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28Fuel feed hose union-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7Fuel feed hose bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Fuel rail bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Fuel rail support bracket bolts - alloy manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Intake air temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Coolant temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Crankshaft sensor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4







54321


Fuel system (continued)Throttle housing-to-alloy manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Throttle housing-to-plastic manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Throttle potentiometer screws - plastic manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1Stepper motor screws - plastic manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1Pressure regulator-to-fuel rail bolts - alloy manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 8Pressure release bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Inlet manifold mounting nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust systemOxygen (lambda) sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 40Exhaust manifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Exhaust manifold shroud screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Exhaust system flange nuts:


Exhaust front pipe mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

4C•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines

1.0 Fuel and ignition system components - MEMS-MPi

2 Fuel cut-out inertia switch3 Fuel pump4 Throttle potentiometer5 Fuel pressure regulator6 Injectors7 Stepper motor8 Intake air temperature

sensor

9 Coolant temperaturesensor

10 Distributor11 Crankshaft sensor12 Diagnostic connector13 Engine management

ECU14 Main relay

15 Fuel pump relay16 Lambda sensor relay17 Starter relay18 Ignition HT coil19 Purge valve20 Lambda sensor21 Charcoal canister22 Fuel temperature sensor



General informationThe fuel system comprises a fuel tank

which is mounted under the rear of the vehiclewith an electric fuel pump immersed in it, afuel filter, fuel feed and return lines whichservice four fuel injectors interlinked by a rail,as well as the Electronic Control Unit (ECU)and the various sensors, electricalcomponents and related wiring which makeup the system as a whole (see illustration).Inlet manifolds of either alloy or plasticconstruction are fitted.

The air cleaner assembly contains adisposable paper filter element and ismounted on the side of the battery tray.

To reduce emissions and to improvedriveability when the engine is cold, the inletmanifold is heated by the coolant. Mixtureenrichment for cold starting is a pre-programmed function of the system.

The ECU fully controls both the ignitionsystem and the fuel injection system,integrating the two in a complete enginemanagement system (MEMS-MPi). Systemoperation is similar to that described for thesingle-point fuel injection system (MEMS-SPi)in Part B of this Chapter, any differencesbeing made clear in the following Sections.Refer to Chapter 5 for information on theignition side of the system and to Chapter 12for details of the system relays.

The exhaust system consists of four maincomponents which are the front downpipe,the catalytic converter, the intermediate pipeand middle silencer box, and the tailpipe andmain silencer box. The system is suspendedthroughout its entire length by rubbermountings.

PrecautionsFuel injection system

Residual pressure will remain in the fuellines long after the vehicle was last used,

therefore extra care must be taken whendisconnecting a fuel line hose. Loosen anyfuel hose slowly to avoid a sudden release ofpressure which may cause fuel spray. As anadded precaution, place a rag over eachunion as it is disconnected to catch any fuelwhich is forcibly expelled.

Fuel usageRefer to Part A of this Chapter.

Catalytic covertersBefore attempting work on these items,



Refer to Chapter 1.


Removal1 For improved access, remove the battery.2 Release the two securing clips and detachthe connecting hose from between the throttlehousing and air cleaner (see illustration).Note that on engines fitted with a plastic inletmanifold, the hose is secured to the throttlehousing with a spring clip.3 Remove the two battery tray-to-air cleanersecuring bolts (see illustration).4 Disconnect the HT coil-to-distributor caplead at the cap and from its retaining clip onthe air cleaner (see illustration).5 Pull the air cleaner assembly free of itsmounting bracket, release it from its inlethose, then remove it from the vehicle.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that all rubber mountinggrommets and hoses are free of splits orperishing and that all hose clips are securelytightened.


Refer to Chapter 1.

5 Fuel system -depressurisation 2

Note: The following procedure will merelyrelieve pressure in the fuel system. Rememberthat fuel will still be present in the systemcomponents and take precautions accordinglybefore disconnecting any of them.1 The fuel system is defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel filter, the fuelinjectors and the metal pipes and flexiblehoses of the fuel lines between thesecomponents. All these contain fuel which willbe under pressure while the engine is runningand/or while the ignition is switched on. Thepressure will remain for some time after theignition has been switched off and must berelieved before any of these components aredisturbed for servicing work.2 The fuel system is depressurised byloosening the fuel filter pipe union.3 Position wads of rag around the union tocatch spilled fuel. Carefully loosen the unionwhilst holding the fuel pipe with an open-ended spanner to prevent any undue strainbeing placed upon it (see illustration).4 Once all pressure has been released,retighten the union to the specified torquesetting whilst using a spanner to counter-holdthe pipe.

6 Fuel system - pressure check

1 Fuel system testing will involve the use ofspecialist Rover tools. Consult your Roverdealer as to the availability of these tools andrefer to Section 7 in Part B of this Chapter andto the figures given in the SpecificationsSection before proceeding.

7 Fuel pump - removal and refitting

Refer to Section 8 in Part B of this Chapter.

8 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting


9 Fuel tank - removal and refitting

1 Refer to Section 10 in Part A of this Chapterbut depressurise the fuel system beforedisconnecting any of the fuel lines.


Note: Before proceeding with any adjustmentof the accelerator cable, ensure that it iscorrectly routed. Do not attempt to adjust thecable by means of the throttle stop screw.

Removal1 Detatch the cable adjuster nut from itsabutment bracket and disengage the cable

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines 4C•3

3.4 Releasing HT coil-to-distributor caplead from air cleaner

3.3 Removing battery tray-to-air cleanersecuring bolts (arrowed)

3.2 Releasing throttle housing-to-aircleaner securing clips

5.3 Loosening fuel filter pipe union

4C


end nipple from the throttle cam (seeillustration).2 On vehicles with an alloy inlet manifold,release the cable from its retaining clip on theengine compartment bulkhead (seeillustration).3 On vehicles with a plastic inlet manifold,release the cable from its retaining clip on themanifold.4 It may be necessary to remove thewindscreen wiper motor to gain access towhere the cable passes through the bulkhead. 5 Release the cable outer from the bulkheadby turning its retaining clip (see illustration).6 Remove the cable inner-to-throttle pedalsecuring clip and detach the cable from thepedal.7 Withdraw the cable from the vehicle.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Adjust the cable as follows:

Adjustment

Alloy inlet manifold only9 Ensure that the throttle potentiometer andstepper motor are synchronised.10 Turn the ignition on and wait for 10seconds before turning the ignition off to

ensure that the stepper motor is in the settingposition.

Alloy and plastic inlet manifolds11 Detach the cable adjuster nut from itsabutment bracket and reposition the cableouter in the bracket.12 Turn the cable adjuster nut until it justmakes contact with the top of the abutmentbracket.

Alloy inlet manifold only13 Hold the cam in the “throttle closed”position and ensure that the screw is in contactwith the stepper motor pin. Turn the cableadjuster nut until all slack is removed from thecable inner. Any linkage gap must be removedwithout opening the throttle (see illustration).

Plastic inlet manifold only14 Hold the throttle cam in contact with thethrottle stop screw and turn the cable adjusternut until all slack is removed from the cableinner. This must be achieved without openingthe throttle.

Alloy and plastic inlet manifolds15 Check that there is no free play in thecable outer and refit the cable adjuster nutinto its abutment bracket.16 Operate the throttle pedal, checking thatthe throttle opens to its stop.

11 Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting

Refer to Section 10 in Part A of this Chap-ter.

12 Throttle housing - removal and refitting 2

Alloy inlet manifold1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Release the two securing clips and detach the connecting hose from between thethrottle housing and air cleaner (seeillustration).3 Disconnect the stepper motor and throttlepotentiometer multiplugs.4 Disconnect the breather hose from thethrottle housing.5 Pull the accelerator cable adjuster nut fromits abutment bracket and release the cableinner from the throttle cam.6 Remove the four nuts securing the throttlehousing to its mounting and remove thehousing from the vehicle.7 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:

a) Thoroughly clean all component parts,paying particular attention to the matingsurfaces.

b) Examine the throttle housing mounting for splits or damage and renew ifnecessary.

c) Tighten the housing securing nuts to thespecified torque wrench settings.

d) Check all hose connections are secure.e) Check accelerator cable adjustment.

Plastic inlet manifold8 Disconnect the battery earth lead.9 Release the two securing clips and


12.2 Release hose securing clips (A),disconnect stepper motor multiplug (B),throttle potentiometer multiplug (C) and

breather hose (D)

10.13 Turn accelerator cable adjuster nut (A) until all slack is removed from cable

inner. Any linkage gap (B) must beremoved without opening throttle

10.5 Release accelerator cable frombulkhead by turning retaining clip

(arrowed)

10.2 Releasing accelerator cable fromretaining clip on engine compartment

bulkhead

10.1 Remove accelerator cable adjusternut from abutment bracket and disengage

cable end nipple from throttle cam(arrowed)


detach the connecting hose from between thethrottle housing and air cleaner (seeillustration).10 Loosen the stepper motor hose-to-throttlehousing retaining clip and detach the hosefrom the housing.11 Disconnect the multiplug from the throttlepotentiometer.12 Disconnect the breather hose from thethrottle housing after loosening its retainingclip. 13 Pull the accelerator cable adjuster nutfrom its abutment bracket and release thecable inner from the throttle cam.14 Remove the four bolts securing thethrottle housing to the inlet manifold, detachthe throttle housing from the manifold anddiscard the sealing ring.15 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following.a) Thoroughly clean all component parts,

paying particular attention to the matingsurfaces.

b) Fit a new throttle housing sealing ring,lubricating it with silicone grease.

c) Tighten the housing securing bolts to thespecified torque wrench settings.

d) Check all hose connections are secure.e) Check accelerator cable adjustment.

13 Fuel injection systemcomponents - testing

Refer to Section 14 in Part B of this Chap-ter.

14 Fuel injection systemcomponents - removal and refitting

3Fuel rail/injectors

Alloy inlet manifold1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Depressurise the fuel system.3 Detach the inlet manifold chamber anddiscard the gasket.

4 Remove the two bolts securing the fuelfeed hose to the fuel rail and release the hosefrom the rail, discarding the O-ring (seeillustration).5 Disconnect the four injector multiplugs.6 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe hose from the fuel pressure regulator.7 Remove the two bolts securing the fuel railto the inlet manifold.8 Pull each injector from its location in theinlet manifold and remove the fuel rail,complete with injectors and pressureregulator, from the vehicle, placing it on aclean surface. 9 Remove and discard the O-ring fitted to thebase of each injector, then cover the exposedend of each injector to prevent the ingress ofdirt or moisture (see illustration). 10 To remove the injectors from the fuel rail,first remove the spring clip which secureseach injector to the rail (see illustration). Pull each injector from the rail and discard theO-ring fitted to its upper end. Again, cover theexposed end of each injector to prevent theingress of dirt or moisture. 11 Refitting of the injectors and rail is thereverse of the removal procedure, noting thefollowing:a) Thoroughly clean all component parts,


b) Fit new O-rings, lubricating them withclean fuel.

c) Where applicable, tighten all securingbolts to the specified torque wrenchsettings.

Plastic inlet manifold12 Disconnect the battery earth lead.13 Depressurise the fuel system.14 Loosen the throttle housing breather


14.4 Fuel rail/injector assembly - alloy inlet manifoldA Fuel feed hose connectionB O-ringC Injector multiplug (1 of 4)D Fuel pressure regulator

E Fuel rail securing boltsF Fuel injector (1 of 4)G Fuel rail

14.10 Remove spring clip (A), pull injec-tor (B) from rail and discard O-ring (C)

14.9 Discard O-ring (arrowed) fitted toinjector base

12.9 Throttle housing assembly - plastic inlet manifoldA Hose securing clipsB Stepper motor hoseC Throttle potentiometer

multiplugD Throttle housing breather

hose

E Throttle cable adjusterF Throttle camG Throttle housing securing

bolts (two shown)

4C


hose-to-camshaft cover retaining clip anddetach the hose (see illustration).15 Disconnect the multiplug from the steppermotor.16 Disconnect the inlet manifold breatherhose from the camshaft cover.17 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the fuelpressure regulator.18 Loosen the retaining clip and disconnectthe fuel return hose from the fuel rail.19 Remove the two bolts which secure thefuel feed pipe to the fuel rail and release thepipe from the rail, discarding the O-ring (seeillustration 14.4).20 Disconnect each injector multiplug andsecuring clip.21 Remove the two bolts securing the fuelrail to the inlet manifold and detach the railfrom the manifold, together with the fuelpressure regulator.22 Note that the rail and regulator areserviced as an assembly and should not beseparated. If unions are to be leftdisconnected for any length of time, then plugthem with clean cloth to prevent the ingress ofdirt or moisture into the system.23 To remove the injectors, pull each onefrom its location in the inlet manifold anddiscard both of its O-rings. If leaving theinjectors for any length of time, cover theirexposed ends to prevent the ingress of dirt ormoisture. 24 Refitting of the injectors and rail is thereverse of the removal procedure, noting thefollowing:a) Thoroughly clean all component parts,


b) Fit new O-rings, lubricating them withsilicone grease.

c) Where applicable, tighten all securingbolts to the specified torque wrenchsettings.

Fuel pressure regulator

Alloy inlet manifold25 The fuel pressure regulator is secured tothe end of the fuel rail by two bolts (seeillustration). 26 With fuel system pressure released andthe fuel hose disconnected from the regulator(see fuel rail removal above), remove thesecuring bolts and detach the regulator fromthe rail.27 Remove the spacer and O-ring,discarding the O-ring.28 Refitting the regulator is the reverse of theremoval procedure. Thoroughly clean themating surfaces and fit a new O-ring,lubricating it with clean fuel.

Plastic inlet manifold29 The fuel pressure regulator is availableonly as part of the fuel rail and should not beseparated from the same.

Stepper motor

Alloy inlet manifold30 The stepper motor fitted to this type ofmanifold is an integral part of the throttlehousing and as a consequence, cannot beremoved.

Plastic inlet manifold31 Disconnect the multiplug from the steppermotor (see illustration).32 Remove the two Torx screws which

secure the motor to the inlet manifold andremove the motor, discarding its O-ring.33 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces.b) Fit a new O-ring to the motor, lubricating

it with silicone grease.c) Tighten the motor securing bolts to the

specified torque wrench setting.

Throttle potentiometer

Alloy inlet manifold34 Disconnect the battery earth lead.35 Disconnect the multiplug from thepotentiometer (see illustration).36 Remove the two securing screws anddetach the potentiometer from the throttlehousing.37 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces.b) Ensure correct engagement of the

potentiometer before fitting the securingscrews.

Plastic inlet manifold38 Disconnect the potentiometer multiplug(see illustration).39 Remove and discard the two securingscrews and wavewashers and remove theclamping plate.40 Pull the potentiometer off the throttlespindle being carefull not to apply leverage ortwist the potentiometer.


14.38 Potentiometer multiplug (arrowed) -plastic inlet manifold

14.35 Disconnecting potentiometermultiplug - alloy inlet manifold

14.31 Disconnect stepper motor multiplug (A) and remove Torx screws

(B - one hidden)

14.25 Fuel pressure regulator location -alloy inlet manifold


14.14 Fuel rail/injector components -plastic inlet manifold

A Throttle housing breather hoseB Inlet manifold breather hoseC Fuel pressure regulatorD Fuel return hoseE Fuel rail securing bolt (1 of 2)F Fuel injector multiplug (1 of 4)G Fuel injecdtor securing clip (1 of 4)

41 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Carefully clean the mating surfaces of the

throttle housing and potentiometer.b) Refit the potentiometer so that the flat on

the spindle is aligned with the matingportion of the potentiometer.

c) When pressing the potentiometer ontothe spindle, apply finger pressure only tothe shaded area shown (see illustration).

d) Rotate the potentiometer anti-clockwiseonly to align the fixing holes.

e) Tighten the potentiometer screws to theirspecified torque wrench setting.

f) Operate the throttle cam 2 or 3 times and ensure that full travel existsbetween the throttle open and closedpositions.

Engine management(ignition/fuel injection) ECU42 Remove the battery.43 Undo the three nuts securing the ECU toits mounting bracket (see illustration).44 Unplug the two multiplug connectors fromthe ECU.45 Release the securing clip and pull thevacuum hose from the ECU.46 Remove the ECU from the vehicle.47 Refitting the ECU is the reverse of theremoval procedure. If a new or different ECUhas been fitted, it may take a short while forfull idle control to be restored.

Intake air temperature sensor48 Disconnect the battery earth lead.49 Disconnect the sensor multiplug andunscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold(see illustration).50 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean the sensor threads and

mating surfaces.b) Tighten the sensor to the specified torque

wrench setting.

Coolant temperature sensor51 Disconnect the battery earth lead.52 Either drain the cooling system or beprepared for some loss of coolant as thesensor is unscrewed.53 Disconnect the sensor multiplug (seeillustration).54 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it, thenplug the opening to prevent any entry of dirt. Ifthe cooling system has not been drained,work quickly to minimise coolant loss.55 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean the sensor threads and

mating surfaces.b) If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it. If no

sealing washer is fitted, apply a smear ofsealant to the sensor threads.

c) Tighten the sensor to the specified torquewrench setting.

d) On completion, replenish the coolingsystem.

Accelerator pedal switch56 Refer to Section 11 in Part A of thisChapter.

Fuel cut-off inertia switch57 Refer to Section 15 in Part B of thisChapter.

Relays58 Refer to Chapter 12 for furtherinformation.


1 Refer to Section 15 in Part A of thisChapter. Note that there is no separatemanifold pre-heater temperature switch. TheECU uses the information sent from thecoolant temperature sensor.


Alloy inlet manifold

Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Depressurise the fuel system.3 Disconnect the hose from the fuel filter,covering the open connections to prevent anyingress of dirt.4 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the coolingsystem.5 Release the securing clip and detach thethrottle housing-to-air cleaner hose from thethrottle housing.6 Disconnect the stepper motor and throttlepotentiometer multiplugs (see illustration).7 Disconnect the breather hose from thethrottle housing.


14.49 Intake air temperature sensormultiplug (arrowed)

14.43 ECU connection points

A Mounting nutsB Multiplug connectorsC Vacuum hose

14.41 When pressing potentiometer ontospindle, apply finger pressure only to

shaded area

16.6 Disconnecting stepper motormultiplug

14.53 Coolant temperature sensormultiplug (arrowed)

4C


8 Release the retaining clip and disconnectthe breather pipe from the manifold chamber(see illustration).9 Release the retaining clips and disconnectthe three breather hoses from the manifoldchamber (see illustration, also illus-tration 16.8).10 Unscrew the brake servo line banjo boltfrom the manifold chamber, discarding bothsealing washers (see illustration).11 Remove the five bolts securing themanifold chamber to the inlet manifold. 12 Remove the support stay to manifoldchamber securing bolt.13 Detach the manifold chamber from theinlet manifold and discard its gasket.14 Remove the engine oil dipstick, coveringthe open pipe to prevent any ingress of dirt.15 Disconnect the four fuel injectormultiplugs and the intake air temperaturesensor multiplug.16 Release the coolant hose from the inletmanifold (see illustration).17 Remove the two nuts and three boltssecuring the upper face of the inlet manifoldto the cylinder head, loosening each one alittle at a time.18 Remove the two bolts securing the enginewiring harness brackets to the inlet manifold.19 Release the two clips which secure thefuel return hose.

20 Remove the bolt securing the supportstay to the inlet manifold.21 Remove the four bolts securing the lowerface of the inlet manifold to the cylinder head,loosening each one a little at a time.22 Remove the inlet manifold, discarding thegasket.

Refitting23 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean all component parts,


b) Always fit a new manifold gasket.c) Working in the sequence shown (see

illustration), tighten the manifoldretaining nuts and bolts evenly to thespecified torque wrench setting.

d) Tighten all disturbed fasteners to theirspecified torque wrench settings (wheregiven).

e) Renew all sealing washers and O-rings. f) Remove all masking materials.g) Ensure all hose connections are securely

remade.h) Ensure the brake servo line banjo union

alignment tang is located in the manifoldchamber slot.

i) Refill the cooling system and check thecoolant level, then wash off any spiltcoolant.

Plastic inlet manifold

Removal24 Disconnect the battery earth lead.

25 Depressurise the fuel system.26 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the coolingsystem.27 Release the securing clip and detach thethrottle housing-to-air cleaner hose from theair cleaner.28 Release the retaining clip and detach thepurge hose from the inlet manifold (seeillustration).29 Disconnect the breather hose from thethrottle housing after loosening its retainingclip. 30 Disconnect the multiplug from the throttlepotentiometer.31 Loosen the stepper motor hose-to-abutment retaining clip and detach the hose,moving it to one side.32 Release the accelerator cable from itsretaining clip on the right-hand side of themanifold.33 Remove the four bolts securing thethrottle housing to the inlet manifold.34 Detach the throttle housing from themanifold and discard its sealing ring.35 Disconnect the multiplug from the steppermotor.36 Release the breather hose from the inletmanifold and depress the plastic collar of thebrake servo hose quick-fit connector to


16.28 Throttle housing connections -plastic inlet manifold

A Purge hoseB Breather hoseC Throttle potentiometerD Stepper motor hose

16.23 Alloy inlet manifold tighteningsequence

16.10 Brake servo line banjo union

A Sealing washersB Union alignment tang in manifold

chamber slot

16.16 Releasing coolant hose from inletmanifold

16.9 Disconnect breather hoses (arrowed)from manifold chamber

16.8 Disconnect breather pipe (A) frommanifold chamber

B Manifold chamber breather hose (1 of 3)


release it from the manifold (seeillustrations).37 Disconnect the ECU vacuum pipe fromthe manifold.38 Loosen the retaining clip and disconnectthe fuel return hose from the fuel rail, coveringthe open connections to prevent any ingressof dirt (see illustration).39 Disconnect the coolant system expansiontank hose from the inlet manifold.40 Release the fuel return hose from itsretaining clips.41 Disconnect the injector harness and airtemperature sensor multiplugs.42 Remove the two bolts which secure thefuel feed pipe to the fuel rail and release thepipe from the rail. Discard the O-ring andcover the open connections to prevent anyingress of dirt.43 Working from the centre of the manifoldoutwards, progressively loosen the manifoldsecuring nuts and bolts. Remove themanifold, discarding the gasket.

Refitting44 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean all component parts,


b) Ensure that a metal insert is located ineach manifold stud or bolt hole.

c) Always fit a new manifold gasket (seeillustration).

d) Working in the sequence shown (seeillustration), tighten the manifold

retaining nuts and bolts evenly to thespecified torque wrench setting.

e) Tighten all disturbed fasteners to theirspecified torque wrench settings (wheregiven).

f) Fit new O-rings, lubricating them withsilicone grease.

g) Remove all masking materials.h) Ensure all hose connections are securely

remade.i) Refill the cooling system and check the

coolant level, then wash off any spiltcoolant.


Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner assembly.3 Remove the alternator.4 Referring to Part D of this Chapter, releasethe lambda sensor multiplug from the gearboxbracket and disconnect the plug from thesensor.5 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it on axlestands.6 Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaustfront pipe to the manifold, then disconnect thepipe and collect the gasket.

7 Undo the five nuts securing the exhaustmanifold to the cylinder head, then carefullymanoeuvre the manifold out of the enginecompartment. Remove the manifold gasketand discard it.8 Examine all the exhaust manifold studs forsigns of damage and corrosion. Remove alltraces of corrosion and repair or renew anydamaged studs.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder


b) Working in the sequence shown (seeillustration), tighten the manifoldretaining nuts evenly to the specifiedtorque wrench setting.


18 Exhaust system -inspection,removal andrefitting

1 Refer to Section 18 in Part A of thisChapter. Note that on models fitted with aclosed-loop catalytic converter, the lambdasensor must be removed or its wiringdisconnected whenever the exhaust systemfront pipe is disconnected from the manifold.


16.38 Disconnect fuel return hose (A) andexpansion tank hose (B)

16.36b . . . and depress plastic collar(arrowed) of brake servo hose quick-fit

connector to release from manifold

A ECU vacuum pipe

17.9 Exhaust manifold tighteningsequence

16.44b Plastic inlet manifold tighteningsequence

16.44a Fit a new inlet manifold gasket(arrowed)

4C


16.36a Release breather hose (arrowed) . . .


4D

Chapter 4 Part DEmission control systems

Catalytic converters - general information and precautions . . . . . . . 2Emission control system components - testing and renewal . . . . . . 3

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

4D•1

Contents

SpecificationsTorque wrench settings Nm lbf ftLambda sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41







54321

1 General information

Apart from their ability to use unleadedpetrol and the various features which help tominimise emissions and are built into the fuelsystem, all models have at least thecrankcase emission-control system describedbelow. Models equipped with a catalyticconverter are also fitted with the exhaust andevaporative emission control system.

Crankcase emission controlTo reduce the emission of unburned

hydrocarbons from the crankcase into theatmosphere, the engine is sealed and theblow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from

the crankcase, through a wire mesh oilseparator in the cylinder head cover, into theinlet tract to be burned by the engine duringnormal combustion. On carburettor engines, asingle breather hose connects the cylinderhead cover to the carburettor continuous-depression area. On fuel-injected engines, asmall-bore breather hose connects thecylinder head cover to the throttle bodydownstream of the throttle disc, while alarger-bore hose is connected above thethrottle disc so that the same effect isobtained at all states of manifold depression.

Under conditions of high manifolddepression (idling, deceleration), the gaseswill be sucked positively out of the crankcase.Under conditions of low manifold depression(acceleration, full-throttle running), the gasesare forced out of the crankcase by the(relatively) higher crankcase pressure. If the

engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure(due to increased blow-by) will cause some ofthe flow to return under all manifoldconditions.

Evaporative emission controlTo minimise the escape into the

atmosphere of unburned hydrocarbons, anevaporative emissions control system is fittedto models equipped with a catalytic converter.The fuel tank filler cap is sealed and acharcoal canister is mounted in the enginecompartment to collect the petrol vapoursgenerated in the tank when the vehicle isparked. It stores them until they can becleared from the canister (under the control ofthe fuel-injection/ignition system ECU via thepurge control valve) into the inlet tract to beburned by the engine during normalcombustion.

To ensure that the engine runs correctlywhen it is cold and/or idling and to protect thecatalytic converter from the effects of an over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is notopened by the ECU until the engine haswarmed up to above 70∞C, the engine speedexceeds 1500 rpm and manifold absolutepressure is below 30 kPa. The valve solenoidis then modulated on and off to allow thestored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.

Exhaust emission controlTo minimise the amount of pollutants which

escape into the atmosphere, some modelsare fitted with a catalytic converter in theexhaust system. Either an open-loop controlsystem, which has no feedback from theconverter to the fuel system, or a closed-loopcontrol system, in which the lambda sensor inthe exhaust system provides the fuel-injection/ignition system ECU with constantfeedback (which enables it to adjust themixture to provide the best possibleconditions for the converter to operate) maybe fitted.

If a lambda sensor is fitted, it has a heatingelement built-in that is controlled by the ECUthrough the lambda sensor relay to quicklybring the sensor’s tip to an efficient operatingtemperature. The sensor’s tip is sensitive tooxygen and sends the ECU a varying voltagedepending on the amount of oxygen in theexhaust gases. If the intake air/fuel mixture istoo rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygenso the sensor sends a low-voltage signal, thevoltage rises as the mixture weakens and theamount of oxygen rises in the exhaust gases.Peak conversion efficiency of all majorpollutants occurs if the intake air/fuel mixtureis maintained at the chemically-correct ratiofor the complete combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel(the stoichiometric ratio). The sensor outputvoltage alters in a large step at this point, theECU using the signal change as a referencepoint and correcting the intake air/fuel mixtureaccordingly by altering the fuel injector pulsewidth.

2 Catalytic converters - generalinformation and precautions

The catalytic converter is a reliable andsimple device which needs no maintenance initself but there are some facts of which anowner should be aware if the converter is tofunction properly for its full service life.a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle

equipped with a catalytic converter.b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems

well-maintained in accordance with themanufacturer’s schedule.

c) If the engine develops a misfire, do notdrive the vehicle at all (or at least as littleas possible) until the fault is cured.

d) DO NOT push-start or tow-start thevehicle.

e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at highengine speeds.

f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.g) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the

engine burns oil to the extent of leaving avisible trail of blue smoke.

h) Remember that the catalytic converteroperates at very high temperatures, hencethe heat shields on the vehicle’sunderbody, and the casing will becomehot enough to ignite combustiblematerials which brush against it. DO NOT,therefore, park the vehicle in dryundergrowth, over long grass or piles ofdead leaves.

i) Remember that the catalytic converter isFRAGILE. DO NOT strike it with toolsduring servicing work, take great carewhen working on the exhaust system,ensure that the converter is well clear ofany jacks or other lifting gear used to raisethe vehicle and do not drive the vehicleover rough ground, road humps, etc. insuch a way as to ground the exhaustsystem.

j) In some cases, particularly when thevehicle is new and/or is used for stop/startdriving, a sulphurous smell (like that ofrotten eggs) may be noticed from theexhaust. Once the vehicle has covered afew thousand miles the problem shoulddisappear. In the meantime, a change ofdriving style or of the brand of petrol usedmay effect a solution.

k) The catalytic converter, used on a well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,should last for between 50 000 and100 000 miles.

3 Emission control systemcomponents - testing andrenewal

5Crankcase emission control1 The components of this system require noattention other than to check that all hoses

are clear and that the wire mesh oil separatorsare flushed clean with a suitable solventwhenever the cylinder head cover is removed(see illustration).

Evaporative emission control

Testing2 If the system is thought to be faulty,disconnect the hoses from the charcoalcanister and purge control valve and checkthat they are clear by blowing through them. Ifthe purge control valve or charcoal canisterare thought to be faulty, they must berenewed. Note that the purge control valvemay either be separate from, or mounted ontop of, the charcoal canister.

Charcoal canister (purge valveseparate) - renewal3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.4 Note the fitted positions of the canisterhoses, then use a suitable pair of pliers torelease the retaining clips (where fitted) anddisconnect all the hoses from the canister(see illustration).5 Lift the canister up to free it from itsmounting bracket then remove it from theengine compartment.6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that all hoses are correctlyrefitted and, where necessary, securely heldby their retaining clips.

Charcoal canister/purge valveassembly - renewal7 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

4D•2 Emission control systems

3.4 Charcoal canister hose connections

1 Vacuum hose2 Outlet hose - canister to purge valve3 Inlet hose - fuel tank to canister4 Charcoal canister5 Drain hose

3.1 Clean oil separators whenever cylinderhead cover is removed


8 Disconnect the multiplug from the purgevalve (see illustration).9 Release the securing clip and disconnectthe hose from the purge valve. 10 Note the fitted positions of the canisterfuel and vent hoses, then use a suitable pair ofpliers to release the retaining clips (wherefitted) and disconnect both hoses from thecanister.11 Release the securing strap and removethe canister/purge valve assembly.12 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that all hoses are correctlyrefitted and, where necessary, securely heldby their retaining clips.

Purge valve (charcoal canisterseparate) - renewal13 Disconnect the battery negative terminalthen disconnect the wiring connector from thepurge valve (see illustration).14 Release the retaining clips and disconnectthe inlet and outlet hoses from the valve.15 Prise out the C-clip which secures theinlet hose adaptor to the mounting bracket,then withdraw the adaptor, noting the O-ringwhich is fitted between the adaptor and purgevalve. Discard the O-ring which must berenewed.16 Undo the bolt securing the purge valve toits mounting bracket and remove the valvefrom the vehicle.17 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Use a new inlet hose adaptor O-ring.

Purge valve (on charcoal canister) -renewal18 Disconnect the battery negative lead.19 Disconnect the multiplug from the purgevalve.20 Release the securing clip and disconnectthe hose from the purge valve. 21 Pull the valve from its location on thecanister and discard its O-ring (seeillustration).22 Refitting the valve is the reverse of theremoval procedure, noting the following:a) Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces.b) Fit a new O-ring to the valve. c) Ensure all connections are secure.

Exhaust emission control23 If the CO level reading is too high (or if anyother symptom is encountered which causesyou to suspect a fault in the exhaust emissioncontrol system), always check first that the aircleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugsare in good condition and correctly gapped,that the engine breather and vacuum hosesare clear and undamaged, and that theaccelerator cable is correctly adjusted. If theengine is running very roughly, check itscompression pressures, bearing in mind thepossibility that one of the hydraulic tappetsmight be faulty, producing an incorrect valveclearance. Check also that all wiring is in goodcondition, with securely-fastened connectors,that the fuel filter (fuel-injected engines only)has been renewed at the recommendedintervals and that the exhaust system isentirely free of air leaks which might upset theoperation of the catalytic converter. Onlywhen all these have been checked and foundto be in serviceable condition should theconverter be suspected.

Testing - open-loop system24 The performance of the catalyticconverter can be checked only by using agood-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gasanalyser.25 Check that the CO level is as specified atthe gas-sampling pipe when the engine is fullywarmed-up to normal operating temperature.If not, check the fuel and ignition systems untilthe fault is found and the level is restored toits correct value.26 Once the CO level is known to be correctupstream of the catalytic converter, take thevehicle on a brisk 4-mile road test and checkthe CO level at the tailpipe immediately onreturn. It should be significantly lower than the

level at the gas-sampling pipe (below 0.5 %approximately on fuel-injected engines,slightly higher on carburettor engines).27 If the tailpipe CO level is little differentfrom that at the gas-sampling pipe, repeat thecheck ensuring that it is made immediately onreturn from road test or the converter may notbe at normal operating temperature and willnot have reached its peak conversionefficiency. If the results are the same, thecatalytic converter is proven faulty and mustbe renewed.

Testing - closed-loop system28 The performance of the catalyticconverter can be checked only by using agood-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gasanalyser.29 Where a gas-sampling pipe is fitted, thetest described above can be carried out. If theCO level at the tailpipe is little different fromthat at the gas-sampling pipe, the catalyticconverter is probably faulty and must berenewed, once the fuel-injection and ignitionsystems have been checked thoroughly usingRover diagnostic equipment and are known tobe free from faults.30 If a gas-sampling pipe is not fitted and theCO level at the tailpipe is too high, thecomplete fuel-injection and ignition systemsmust be checked thoroughly by using Roverdiagnostic equipment. Once these have beenchecked and are known to be free from faults,the fault must be in the catalytic converter,which must be renewed.

Catalytic converter - renewal31 Refer to Section 18 in Part A of thisChapter.

Lambda (oxygen) sensor - operationalcheck32 The manufacturer’s maintenanceschedule calls for regular checks of thelambda sensor’s operation. This can be doneonly by attaching Rover diagnostic equipmentto the sensor wiring and checking that thevoltage varies from low to high values whenthe engine is running. Do not attempt to testany part of the system with anything otherthan the correct test equipment.

Emission control systems 4D•3

3.21 Renew purge valve O-ring (arrowed)

3.13 Purge valve assembly

1 Wiring connector2 Inlet hose -

charcoal canisterto purge valve

3 Outlet hose -purge valve tothrottle housing

4 C-clip5 Inlet hose

connector6 O-ring7 Purge valve

3.8 Disconnecting multiplug from purgevalve

A Hose securing clip

4D


Lambda sensor - renewal33 Note that the lambda sensor is delicateand will not work if it is dropped or knocked, ifits power supply is disrupted, or if anycleaning materials are used on it.34 Disconnect the battery earth lead.35 Release the sensor’s wiring connectorfrom the bracket on the gearbox and unplug itto disconnect the sensor (see illustration).36 Raising and supporting the front of thevehicle, if required, to remove the sensor from

underneath, unscrew the sensor from theexhaust system front pipe. Retain its sealingwasher.37 On refitting, clean the sealing washer andrenew it if it is damaged or worn, then refit thesensor, tightening it to its specified torquewrench setting. Reconnect the wiring and refitthe connector plug.

Lambda sensor relay - general38 Refer to Chapter 12.

4D•4 Emission control systems

3.35 Lambda sensor viewed from above


3






3•1

Contents
















54321











Precautions









Refer to Chapter 1.









8 Gasket


























3








Refitting















for clarity




removed
























3









Testing
















Removal






Refitting







Removal




ring (C)


(arrowed)


3




































3

















Refitting




























3





Refer to Chapter 1.




















connection


9 Trinary switch








Receiver drier




Trinary switch




3



5A

Chapter 5 Part AIgnition system - carburettor engines

Distributor - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1HT coil - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm - inspection and renewal . . 3Ignition amplifier module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Ignition system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Ignition timing - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Spark plugs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Thermostatically-operated vacuum switch - removal and refitting . . 7

5A•1

Contents

SpecificationsGeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas constant energy inductiveFiring order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

DistributorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 67 DM4, incorporating centrifugal and vacuum advance

mechanisms and externally-mounted amplifier moduleIdentification:

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NJC 10026Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NJC 10033

Direction of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from left-hand side of vehicle)Pick-up coil resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 950 to 1150 ohmsVacuum diaphragm unit identification:

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-200-8Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-200-6

Vacuum advance commences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 mbar (80 mm Hg)Maximum vacuum advance:

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16º @ 267 mbar (200 mm Hg)Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12º @ 267 mbar (200 mm Hg)

Deceleration check - vacuum disconnected . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4º to 8º @ 2500 rpmNote: Degree and speed values to be measured at crankshaft

HT coilType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AUU 1326 or ADU 8779Manufacturer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch, Ducellier or Rudi CajavecCurrent consumption - average . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.75 amps @ idle speedWinding resistances:

Primary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 ohms @ 20ºCSecondary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 15 K ohms @ 20ºC

Ignition timingAt 1500 rpm (vacuum pipe disconnected) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9º ± 1º BTDC







54321

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftSpark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Distributor cap screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 21Amplifier module-to-distributor body (hex-head) screws . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4Distributor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Ignition HT coil mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

5A•2 Ignition system - carburettor engines



General informationThe ignition system is fully-electronic in

operation and of the inductive type,incorporating a contact-less distributor (drivenoff the camshaft left-hand end) and an amplifiermodule, as well as the spark plugs, HT leads,ignition HT coil and associated wiring.

The system is divided into two circuits,which are the primary (low tension/LT) andsecondary (high tension/HT). The primarycircuit consists of the battery, ignition switch,ignition HT coil primary windings, amplifiermodule and distributor pick-up coil andwiring. The secondary circuit consists of theignition HT coil secondary windings, thedistributor cap and rotor arm, the spark plugsand HT leads.

The distributor incorporates features whichadvance the ignition timing both mechanicallyand by vacuum operation. Its shaft, driven bythe camshaft, incorporates a reluctor whichhas four shaped poles and is mounted on thecentre of a centrifugal advance assembly,whose two weights move outwards undercentrifugal force as engine speed rises, thusrotating the reluctor on the shaft andadvancing or retarding the spark, the amountof movement being controlled by lightsprings. A pick-up coil generates a weakmagnetic field whenever the ignition isswitched on. As the engine rotates thereluctor poles pass the coil, disturbing thefield each time and sending a signal current tothe amplifier module. Whenever this signalexceeds a threshold level determined byengine speed, a high-voltage transistor in theamplifier is switched on, thus allowing HT coilcurrent to flow. When this current has reachedthe required level, it is held constant until thetransistor is switched off, thus triggering thespark. The pick-up coil is clamped to a statorpack that is able to rotate under the control ofthe vacuum diaphragm unit mounted on theside of the distributor. The unit consists of adiaphragm, one side of which is connectedvia a small-bore pipe to the carburettor andthe other side to the stator pack. Inletmanifold depression, which varies with enginespeed and throttle position, causes thediaphragm to move, thus rotating the statorpack and advancing or retarding the spark.

Models fitted with catalytic converters havea thermostatically-operated vacuum switch

screwed into the cooling system thermostathousing. The switch is connected into thevacuum hose linking the carburettor to thedistributor vacuum diaphragm unit. At coolanttemperatures below 70ºC, the switch cuts offthe vacuum supply to the diaphragm andprevents the unit from advancing the ignitiontiming. This causes the exhaust gastemperatures to rise, due to the retardedignition timing, and brings the catalyticconverter swiftly up to its efficient operatingtemperature. Once coolant temperature risesabove 70ºC, the switch opens and allows thevacuum to reach the diaphragm unit, thusrestoring normal advance and retard of theignition timing.

Precautions

GeneralIt is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodesand transistors), and to avoid the risk ofpersonal injury. In addition to the precautionsgiven in the “Safety first!” Section at thebeginning of this manual, take note of thefollowing points when working on the system.

Always remove rings, watches, etc. beforeworking on the electrical system. Even withthe battery disconnected, capacitivedischarge could occur if a component liveterminal is earthed through a metal object.This could cause a shock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.Components such as the alternator or anyother having semi-conductor circuitry couldbe irreparably damaged.

If the engine is being started using jumpleads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive to positive and negative tonegative. This also applies when connecting abattery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, oralternator multi-plug connector, when theengine is running.

The battery leads and alternator multi-plugmust be disconnected before carrying out anyelectric welding on the car.

Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand cranked generator forcircuit or continuity testing.

Ignition and engine managementsystems

The HT voltage generated by an electronicignition system is extremely high, and incertain circumstances could prove fatal. Takecare to avoid receiving electric shocks fromthe HT side of the ignition system. Persons

with surgically-implanted cardiac pacemakerdevices should keep well clear of the ignitioncircuits, components and test equipment.

Do not handle HT leads, or touch thedistributor or coil when the engine is running.If tracing faults in the HT circuit, use wellinsulated tools to manipulate live leads.

Engine management modules are verysensitive components. Certain precautionsmust be taken to avoid damage to the modulewhen working on a vehicle equipped with anengine management system, as follows.

When carrying out welding operations onthe vehicle using electric welding equipment,the battery and alternator should bedisconnected.

Although underbonnet-mounted moduleswill tolerate normal underbonnet conditions,they can be adversely affected by excess heator moisture. If using welding equipment orpressure washing equipment in the vicinity ofthe module, take care not to direct heat, orjets of water or steam at the module. If thiscannot be avoided, remove the module fromthe vehicle, and protect its wiring plug with aplastic bag.

Before disconnecting any wiring, orremoving components, always ensure that theignition is switched off.

On models with underbonnet-mountedmodules, do not run the engine with themodule detached from the body panel, as thebody acts as an effective heat sink and themodule may be damaged due to internaloverheating.

Do not attempt to improvise fault diagnosisprocedures using a test lamp or multimeter,as irreparable damage could be caused to themodule.

After working on ignition/enginemanagement system components, ensurethat all wiring is correctly reconnected beforereconnecting the battery or switching on theignition.

2 Spark plugs - renewal

Refer to Chapter 1.

3 HT leads, distributor cap androtor arm - inspection andrenewal

Refer to Chapter 1.

4 HT coil - removal, testing and refitting 2

Removal1 The coil is mounted on the left-hand side ofthe engine compartment, between the batteryand the left-hand headlamp unit.2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.3 To improve access to the coil, remove theheadlamp bulb cover.4 Peel back the end cover, then disconnectthe HT lead from the coil. Note whichterminals they are connected to anddisconnect the two pairs of LT wires from thecoil (see illustration).5 Remove the two coil mounting bolts andwithdraw the coil from the enginecompartment. If necessary, slacken the clampscrew and separate the coil from its mountingbracket.

Testing6 Test the coil by using a multimeter, set to itsresistance function, to check the primary (LT+ to – terminals) and secondary (LT + to HT

lead terminal) windings for continuity. Theresistance of either winding can be checkedand compared with the specified value. Notethat the resistance of the coil windings willvary slightly according to the coil temperature.7 Using an ohmmeter or continuity tester,check that there is no continuity between theHT lead terminal and the coil body.8 If the coil is faulty it must be renewed.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

5 Distributor - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Release the wire retaining clip and unplugthe wiring connector from the ignitionamplifier module (see illustration).3 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from thevacuum diaphragm unit (see illustration).4 Position the engine so that No 1 cylinder isat TDC on the compression stroke.5 Mark the relationship of the distributor body

to the cylinder head, as a guide for refitting(see illustration).6 Unscrew the distributor mounting bolts andwithdraw the distributor (see illustration). Donot disturb the crankshaft setting while thedistributor is removed.7 Remove the distributor body sealing ringwhich must be renewed whenever it isdisturbed (see illustration).

Overhaul8 Remove the distributor cap and withdrawthe rotor arm, if not already removed (seeillustration).

Ignition system - carburettor engines 5A•3

5.3 Disconnecting vacuum pipe fromdistributor vacuum diaphragm unit

5.2 Disconnecting wiring connector fromignition amplifier module

4.4 HT coil connections

3 Mounting bolts 6 LT connections4 Clamp screw 7 HT connection5 HT coil

5.5 Making alignment marks on distributorbody and cylinder head

5.7 . . . then remove distributor (O-ring arrowed)5.6 Unscrew distributor mounting bolts (remaining bolt arrowed) . . .

5A


9 Undo the two bolts securing the amplifiermodule to the body, then carefully remove thegasket and withdraw the connector.10 Remove the screws and separate theupper housing from the lower.11 Remove the clamp ring and pick-up coilfrom the upper housing.

12 Remove the circlip (and first thrustwasher,if fitted) from the underside of the upperhousing, disengage the stator pack from thevacuum diaphragm unit arm and withdraw thestator pack, followed by the (second)thrustwasher.13 Remove the retaining screw and withdrawthe vacuum diaphragm unit from thedistributor.14 Check the distributor shaft endfloat and ifit seems excessive, seek expert advice.15 Remove the spring from the distributordrive coupling, then use a scriber or similar tomark the relationship of the coupling to theshaft. It is essential that the coupling is refittedcorrectly in relationship to the rotor arm onrefitting. Release the distributor shaft bydriving out the retaining roll pin and removingthe coupling, noting the toothed thrustwasherwhich is fitted behind it.16 Withdraw the shaft, noting the toothedthrustwasher underneath the centrifugaladvance assembly. Be very careful not tobend any of the reluctor poles and do notattempt to remove it from the shaft.17 The advance assembly and shaft can belubricated but if any part of the assembly isfound to be worn or damaged, then thecomplete distributor must be renewed.Individual replacement parts are not available.18 Clean and examine all components. If anyare found to be worn or damaged, seekexpert advice. A repair kit of sundry parts isavailable separately, also the couplingassembly, the pick-up coil and vacuumdiaphragm unit, as well as the rotor arm andthe distributor cap. If any other parts are wornor damaged, the complete distributor must berenewed.19 In addition to the checks in Chapter 1, usean ohmmeter or continuity tester to check thatthere is no continuity between any of thecap’s terminal segments. Similarly, check thatthere is no continuity between the rotor armbody and its brass segment. Note that thearm has a built-in resistance.20 Reassembly is the reverse of thedismantling procedure, noting the following:a) Apply a few drops of suitable oil to the

advance assembly pivots and springs,also to the shaft, upper housing andstator pack bearing surfaces.

b) Using the marks made on dismantling, bevery careful to ensure that the coupling islocated correctly on the shaft end (inrelationship to the rotor arm) beforedriving in the roll pin to secure it, thenensure that the spring is fitted over the rollpin ends.

c) Grease the vacuum diaphragm unit armbefore refitting it and use grease to stickthe thrustwasher to the underside of theupper housing. Refit the stator pack,ensuring it engages correctly with thevacuum diaphragm unit arm peg, followedby the (remaining thrustwasher, if fitted,and) circlip. Tighten the unit retainingscrew securely.

d) Refit the pick-up coil to the upper housingand centre its terminals in the aperturebefore fitting the clamp ring so that itscut-out is over the aperture.

e) Refit the upper housing to the lower,tighten the screws lightly and check thatthe shaft is free to rotate. There must beno sign of the reluctor poles touching thestator pack arms, as either can easily bebent. Tighten the screws securely.

f) Refit the connector and its gasket.g) Refit the amplifier module and the rotor

arm.h) Fit a new sealing ring to the distributor

body.

Refitting

Original distributor21 Ensure that No 1 cylinder is at TDC, thenrotate the rotor arm to align with thedistributor cap’s No 1 terminal. Fit a newsealing ring to the distributor body andlubricate it with a smear of engine oil.22 Align the marks made on removal and refitthe distributor to the cylinder head. Ifnecessary, rotate the rotor arm very slightly tohelp the distributor drive dogs locate in thecamshaft slots; they are offset and so will fitonly one way. Refit the distributor mountingbolts and tighten them to the specified torque.23 Refit the spark plugs.24 Refit the distributor cap, ensuring it iscorrectly located, and tighten its retainingscrews to the specified torque. Reconnect theHT leads to the relevant spark plugs.25 Reconnect the vacuum pipe to thevacuum diaphragm unit and the wiringconnector to the ignition amplifier module.26 Check and, if necessary, adjust theignition timing.

New distributor27 If a new distributor is to be fitted (or nomarks were made on removal), the followingprocedure will produce a basic setting whichwill enable the engine to start and run whilethe ignition timing is accurately set.28 Position the engine so that No 1 cylinderis at TDC on the compression stroke.29 Rotate the crankshaft slightly anti-clockwise until the pulley notch is positionedin the 9º BTDC position (between the 8 and 12marks on the timing scale).30 Rotate the distributor rotor arm to alignwith the distributor cap’s No 1 terminal. Thisterminal is marked with a K which is cast onthe outside of the distributor cap. Fit a newsealing ring to the distributor body andlubricate it with a smear of engine oil.31 Fit the distributor to the cylinder head andrefit its mounting bolts. Positioning thedistributor body so that the mounting boltsare in the middle of their respective slots thentighten the bolts finger-tight only.32 Perform the operations given inparagraphs 23 to 25.33 Check and adjust the ignition timing.


5.8 Lucas 67 DM4 distributor

1 Distributor cap2 Rotor arm3 Upper housing4 Vacuum diaphragm unit5 Stator pack including thrustwasher(s) and

circlip6 Pick-up coil7 Clamp ring8 Distributor shaft, including reluctor and

advance assembly9 Thrustwasher

10 Lower housing11 O-ring12 Drive coupling, including thrustwasher,

spring and roll pin13 Connector and gasket14 Amplifier module


6 Ignition amplifier module -removal and refitting 2

Warning: Do not attempt toopen or repair the ignitionamplifier module. If faulty, itmust be renewed.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the wiringconnector from the amplifier module.3 Remove the two bolts and withdraw themodule, taking care not to damage theterminal pins.4 Check carefully that the mating surfaces ofthe module and distributor are completelyclean and unmarked and that the pick-up coilterminal pins are clean and a secure fit in themodule. If in doubt, it is permissible to removethe connector and its gasket and to gentlysqueeze together the female terminals toimprove the fit.5 The pick-up coil-to-connector andconnector-to-module connections must bechecked with particular care if the module isthought to be faulty. Similarly, check, cleanand tighten (if necessary) the distributor wiringconnector-to-module terminals. It is essentialthat there is good electrical contact betweenthe module and the distributor and at all fourLT wiring connections mentioned above.

Refitting6 On refitting, apply a smear of heat-conducting silicone grease to the matingsurfaces of the module and distributor. Thecorrect grease can be obtained from Roverdealers under Part Number BAU 5812 but ifthis is not available, either a heat-sinkcompound or an anti-seize compound (suchas Holt’s Copaslip), will serve as an adequatesubstitute.7 Check that the terminal pins are not bent ordamaged and that they engage correctly withthe module’s connections.8 Tighten the module retaining bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting, thenreconnect the distributor wiring and battery.

7 Thermostatically-operatedvacuum switch - removal and refitting

21 On models fitted with a catalytic converter,a thermostatically-operated vacuum switch isscrewed into the cooling system thermostathousing.

Removal2 Either drain the cooling system or beprepared for some loss of coolant as theswitch is unscrewed.3 Access to the thermostat housing is

possible with the inlet manifold andcarburettor in place, but is made much easierif these are first removed.4 Disconnect and plug the switch vacuumpipes.5 Unscrew the switch and withdraw it, thenplug the opening to prevent the entry of dirt. Ifthe cooling system has not been drained,work quickly to minimise coolant loss.6 If required, the switch can be tested asdescribed in Chapter 3.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Wipe clean the threads of the switch and

thermostat housing.b) If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it

whenever it is disturbed so as to preventleaks. If no sealing washer is fitted, applya smear of sealant to the switch threads.

c) Tighten the switch securely andreconnect the vacuum pipes.

d) Refit any components removed toimprove access.

e) Replenish the cooling system.

8 Ignition timing - checking and adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1.

9 Ignition system - testing 3Note: Always switch off the ignition beforedisconnecting or connecting any systemcomponent and when using a multi-meter tocheck resistances. Any voltmeter or multi-meter used to test ignition systemcomponents must have an impedance of 10 Mohms or greater.

General1 The components of electronic ignitionsystems are normally very reliable. Most faultsare likely to be due to loose or dirtyconnections or to ‘tracking’ of HT voltage dueto dirt, dampness or damaged insulation, thanto the failure of any of the system’scomponents. Always check all wiringthoroughly before condemning an electricalcomponent and work methodically toeliminate all other possibilities before decidingthat a particular component is faulty.2 The old practice of checking for a spark byholding the live end of an HT lead a shortdistance away from the engine is notrecommended. Not only is there a high risk ofa powerful electric shock but the HT coil oramplifier module will be damaged. Never tryto diagnose misfires by pulling off one HT leadat a time.

Engine will not start3 If the engine will not turn over at all or onlyturns very slowly, check the battery andstarter motor. Connect a voltmeter across thebattery terminals (meter positive probe tobattery positive terminal), disconnect theignition coil HT lead from the distributor capand earth it, then note the voltage readingobtained while turning over the engine on thestarter for (no more than) ten seconds. If thereading obtained is less than approximately9.5 volts, check the battery, starter motor andcharging system.4 If the engine turns over at normal speed butwill not start, check the HT circuit byconnecting a timing light (following themanufacturer’s instructions) and turning theengine over on the starter motor. If the lightflashes then voltage is reaching the sparkplugs, so these should be checked first. If thelight does not flash, check the HT leadsthemselves followed by the distributor cap,carbon brush and rotor arm.5 If there is a spark, check the fuel system forfaults.6 If there is still no spark, check the voltage atthe ignition HT coil + terminal. It should be thesame as the battery voltage (ie: at least 11.7 volts). If the voltage at the coil is morethan 1 volt less than that at the battery, checkthe feed back through the fusebox andignition switch to the battery and its earth untilthe fault is found.7 If the feed to the HT coil is sound, check thecoil’s primary and secondary windingresistance. Renew the coil if faulty but becareful to carefully check the condition of theLT connections themselves before doing so,to ensure that the fault is not due to dirty orpoorly-fastened connectors.8 If the HT coil is in good condition, the faultis probably within the amplifier module ordistributor pick-up coil. So that the operationof these two can be checked quickly, Roverdealers have a neon indicator, which whenconnected across the HT coil’s LT terminals,flashes every time the amplifier triggers an HTpulse in the coil if the ignition is switched onand the engine is turned over on the starter.Owners can substitute a low-wattage bulb. Ifthe bulb flickers or flashes when the engine isturned over, the amplifier and distributor aresound.9 If the amplifier and distributor are sound,and the entire LT circuit is in good condition,the fault, if it lies in the ignition system, mustbe in the HT circuit components. Theseshould be checked carefully, as outlinedabove.10 If the indicator or bulb does not flash, thefault is in either the distributor pick-up coil orthe amplifier module. Owners should note thatby far the commonest cause of failure ofeither of these is a poor connection, eitherbetween the amplifier module and thedistributor body or in the LT circuit wiringconnections themselves. If a voltmeter or

Ignition system - carburettor engines 5A•5

5A


multi-meter is available, check the feed to theamplifier (the voltage reading obtained shouldbe the same as that measured at the HT coilLT + terminal), then check that there is nomeasurable resistance between the amplifiermodule fixing screws and engine earth andthat there is no continuity between eithermodule terminal and earth. If any doubt existsas to the condition of the connections,remove the module, clean and check carefullythe module earth and the connections and, ifnecessary, improve their fit. If these checksfail to correct the fault, measure the resistanceof the pick-up coil, comparing it with thespecified value. Renew the coil if the readingobtained differs significantly from that given. If

the fault still exists, the only solution is to trythe effect of renewing the amplifier module.

Engine misfires11 An irregular misfire suggests either aloose connection or intermittent fault on theprimary circuit, or an HT fault on the coil sideof the rotor arm.12 With the ignition switched off, checkcarefully through the system ensuring that allconnections are clean and securely fastened. Ifthe equipment is available, check the LT circuitas described in paragraphs 6 to 10 above.13 Check that the HT coil, the distributor cap and the HT leads are clean and dry.Check the leads themselves and the spark

plugs (by substitution, if necessary), thencheck the distributor cap, carbon brush androtor arm.14 Regular misfiring is almost certainly due toa fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or sparkplugs. Use a timing light to check whether HTvoltage is present at all leads.15 If HT voltage is not present on anyparticular lead, the fault will be in that lead orin the distributor cap. If HT is present on allleads, the fault will be in the spark plugs.Check and renew them if there is any doubtabout their condition.16 If no HT is present, check the HT coil asits secondary windings may be breakingdown under load.




5B

Chapter 5 Part B Ignition system - fuel injection engines

Crankshaft sensor and reluctor ring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 6Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Engine management electronic control unit (ECU) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

HT coil - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm - inspection and renewal . . 3Ignition system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Ignition timing - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Spark plugs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

5B•1

Contents

SpecificationsGeneralSystem types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System (MEMS), fully

electronic, controlled by ECU. Either single-point (SPi) or multi-point(MPi) fuel injection.

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

DistributorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spark distribution only (ignition timing controlled by ECU)Direction of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from left-hand side of vehicle)Distributor cap:

SPi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AUU 1186MPi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NJD 10010

Rotor arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AUU 1641 (resistive type)

Engine management Electronic Control Unit (ECU)SPi:

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 10008, MNE 10023 or MNE 10042Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 10011, MNE 10013 or MNE 10051

MPi:Alloy inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MNE 101470Plastic inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MKC 101730

Ignition timing @ idle speed (ECU-controlled)SPi with catalytic converter - by ECU number (vacuum pipe connected) :

MNE 10008 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13º ± 2º BTDCMNE 10023, MNE 10042 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14º ± 2º BTDC

SPi without catalytic converter - by ECU number (vacuum pipe connected) :MNE 10011 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 ± 2º BTDCMNE 10013, MNE 10051 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 ± 2º BTDC

MPi - by ECU number (vacuum pipe connected) :MNE 101470, MKC 101730 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 ± 5º BTDC

Note: Nominal value given for checking purposes only - not adjustable and may vary under ECU control







54321


General informationThe ignition system is fully electronic in

operation, incorporating an Electronic ControlUnit (mounted on the engine compartmentbulkhead), a distributor (driven off the inletcamshaft left-hand end) and a crankshaftsensor (mounted in the left-hand rear end ofthe engine cylinder block/crankcase) whichregisters with the reluctor ring fixed to theflywheel. The system also incorporates sparkplugs, HT leads, an ignition HT coil andassociated wiring.

The system is divided into two circuits,which are the primary (low tension/LT) andsecondary (high tension/HT) circuits. Theprimary circuit consists of the battery, ignitionswitch, ignition HT coil primary windings, ECUand wiring. The secondary circuit consists ofthe ignition HT coil secondary windings, thedistributor cap and rotor arm, the spark plugsand the interconnecting HT leads.

The ECU controls both the ignition systemand the fuel injection system, integrating thetwo in a complete engine managementsystem. Refer to Chapter 4 for information onany part of the system not given in thisChapter.

As far as the ignition system is concerned,the ECU receives information in the form ofelectrical impulses or signals from thecrankshaft sensor (which gives it the enginespeed and crankshaft position), from thecoolant temperature sensor (which gives it theengine temperature), from the throttle pedalswitch (which tells it when the throttle is

closed) and from the manifold absolutepressure sensor (which gives it the load on theengine). All these signals are compared by theECU, using digital techniques, with set valuespre-programmed (mapped) into its memory.Based on this information, the ECU selectsthe ignition timing appropriate to those valuesand controls the ignition HT coil accordingly.

This means that the distributor is just that, adistributor of the HT pulse to the appropriatespark plug. It has no effect whatsoever on theignition timing. Also, the system is so sensitivethat, at idle speed, the ignition timing may beconstantly changing. This should beremembered if trying to check the ignitiontiming.

PrecautionsRefer to Part A of this Chapter.

2 Spark plugs - renewal

Refer to Chapter 1.

3 HT leads, distributor cap androtor arm - inspection andrenewal

1 Refer to Chapter 1. Note the anti-flashshield fitted beneath the rotor arm.

4 HT coil - removal, testing and refitting

1 Refer to Section 4 in Part A of this Chapter.

5 Distributor - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Disconnect the HT leads from the sparkplugs.3 Undo the two distributor cap retaining screwsand remove the cap and leads as an assembly.4 Slacken and remove the grub screwsecuring the rotor arm to the camshaft endthen pull off the rotor arm (see illustration).5 Remove the distributor cap insulating platefrom the cylinder head.6 Examine each components for signs ofwear or damage and renew as necessary.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Tighten the rotor arm grub screwand distributor cap screws to the specifiedtorque settings.

Crankshaft sensorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ADU 7340

HT coilType:

SPi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NEC 10002 or NEC 10003MPi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NEC 10002, NEC 10003 or NEC 10004

Manufacturer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch, Ducellier or Rudi CajavecCurrent consumption - average . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.75 amps @ idle speedWinding resistances:

Primary:Spi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 ohms @ 20ºCMpi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 to 0.8 ohms @ 20ºC

Secondary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 15 K ohms @ 20ºC

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftSpark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Distributor cap screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1Distributor rotor arm grub screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Reluctor ring to flywheel setscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2Ignition HT coil mounting screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Crankshaft sensor mounting screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Crankshaft sensor lead-to-flywheel cover plate screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

5B•2 Ignition system – fuel injection engines

5.4 Distributor assembly

1 Distributor cap 3 Grub screw2 Rotor arm 4 Insulating plate


6 Crankshaft sensor andreluctor ring - removal andrefitting

3Removal

Crankshaft sensor1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Disconnect the sensor wiring at itsconnector plug on the flywheel rear coverplate, then undo the retaining screw to releasethe wiring lead.3 Remove the two retaining screws andwithdraw the sensor from the cylinderblock/crankcase (see illustration).4 Inspect the sensor for obvious signs of wearor damage and renew it if necessary. No datais available to enable the sensor to be tested. Ifthought to be faulty, it can be checked only bysubstitution with a new component.

Reluctor ring5 Remove the flywheel.6 Undo the two screws securing the reluctorring to the rear of the flywheel and withdraw it(see illustration).

7 Check the ring for obvious signs of wear ordamage and renew it if necessary.

Refitting

Crankshaft sensor8 Ensure that the sensor and cylinderblock/crankcase mating surfaces are cleanthen refit the sensor and tighten its retainingscrews to the specified torque.9 Connect the sensor wiring connector andtighten the connector mounting screw to thespecified torque.10 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Reluctor ring11 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Tighten the reluctor retainingscrews to the specified torque.

7 Engine managementelectronic control unit (ECU)- removal and refitting

Refer to Chapter 4.

8 Ignition timing - checking and adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1.

9 Ignition system - testing 51 If a fault appears in the engine management(ignition/fuel) system, first ensure that the faultis not due to poor maintenance. Check thatthe air cleaner filter element is clean, the sparkplugs are in good condition and correctlygapped, and that the engine breather hosesare clear and undamaged. Also check that theaccelerator cable is correctly adjusted. If theengine is running very roughly, check thecompression pressures, bearing in mind thatpossibly one of the hydraulic tappets might befaulty, producing an incorrect valve clearance.2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause ofthe problem, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably-equipped Rover dealer for testing. Awiring block connector is incorporated in theengine management circuit into which aspecial electronic diagnostic tester can beplugged. The tester will locate the fault quicklyand simply, alleviating the need to test all thesystem components individually, which is atime-consuming operation that carries a highrisk of damaging the ECU.3 The only ignition system checks which canbe carried out by the home mechanic arethose described for the spark plugs, HT leads,rotor arm and distributor cap (Chapter 1), andthe ignition HT coil (this Chapter). Ifnecessary, the system wiring and wiringconnectors can be checked as described inChapter 12, ensuring that the ECU wiringconnectors have first been disconnected.

Ignition system – fuel injection engines 5B•3

6.3 Removing crankshaft sensor (wiringlead screw arrowed)

6.6 Reluctor ring-to-flywheel screws(arrowed)

5B



5C

Chapter 5 Part CStarting and charging systems

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Alternator brush holder and voltage regulator - renewal . . . . . . . . . 7Alternator drivebelt - inspection, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . 6Battery - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Battery - testing and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Charging system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Starter motor - brush and solenoid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Starting system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

5C•1

Contents

SpecificationsSystemType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 volt, negative earth

BatteryType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Maintenance-free (sealed for life) lead-acidLucas code:

Standard equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 063Cold climates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 063S

Performance: Cold cranking Reserve capacity063 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 amps 60 amps063S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 amps 70 amps

AlternatorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas/Magneti Marelli A127-65Output - @ 14 volts and 6000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 ampsRegulated voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 volts maximumBrush minimum protrusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm approx.Voltage regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 21TR

Starter motorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas M79Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 kWBrush minimum length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 mm approx.


AlternatorPulley retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Mounting/pivot/adjusting arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Starter motorMotor-to-gearbox bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Motor support bracket fasteners:

Bracket front half-to-motor nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Bracket front half-to-rear half bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Bracket rear half-to-gearbox bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18







54321


General informationThe electrical system is of the 12 volt

negative earth type and comprises a 12 voltbattery, alternator with integral voltageregulator, starter motor and related electricalaccessories, components and wiring. Thebattery is charged by an alternator which isbelt-driven.

The starter motor is of the pre-engagedtype incorporating an integral solenoid. Onstarting, the solenoid moves the drive pinioninto engagement with the flywheel ring gearbefore the starter motor is energised. Oncethe engine has started, a one-way clutchprevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel.

PrecautionsIt is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodesand transistors), and to avoid the risk ofpersonal injury. In addition to the precautionsgiven in the “Safety first!” Section at thebeginning of this manual, take note of thefollowing points when working on the system.

Always remove rings, watches, etc beforeworking on the electrical system. Even withthe battery disconnected, capacitivedischarge could occur if a component liveterminal is earthed through a metal object.This could cause a shock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.Components such as the alternator or anyother having semi-conductor circuitry couldbe irreparably damaged.

If the engine is being started using jumpleads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive to positive and negative tonegative. This also applies when connecting abattery charger.

Always ensure that the battery negativelead is disconnected when working on theelectrical system.

Do not allow the engine to turn thealternator when the alternator is notconnected.

Never test for alternator output by ‘flashing’the output lead to earth.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, oralternator multi-plug connector, when theengine is running.

The battery leads and alternator multi-plugmust be disconnected before carrying out anyelectric welding on the vehicle.

Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand cranked generator forcircuit or continuity testing.

2 Battery - maintenance

Refer to Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”.

3 Battery - testing and charging 2

Warning: Specially rapid ‘boost’charges which are claimed torestore the power of a battery in

1 to 2 hours are not recommended as theycan cause serious damage to the batteryplates through overheating.

Warning: During batteryelectrolyte replenishment, neveradd water to sulphuric acid

otherwise it will explode. Always pour theacid slowly onto the water.

Warning: The battery will beemitting significant quantities ofhighly inflammable hydrogen

gas during charging and for approximately15 minutes afterwards. Do not allowsparks or naked flames near the battery orit may explode.

Testing1 In normal use, the battery should notrequire charging from an external sourceunless very heavy use is made of electricalequipment over a series of journeys that aretoo short to allow the charging system to keeppace with demand. Otherwise, a need forregular recharging points to a fault either inthe battery or in the charging system.2 If the vehicle is laid up for long periods (inexcess of thirty days at a time) the battery willlose approximately 1% of its charge per week.This figure is for a disconnected battery. If thebattery is left connected, circuits such as theclock (where fitted) will drain it at a faster rate.To prevent this happening, always disconnectthe battery negative lead whenever the vehicleis to be laid up for a long period. To keep thebattery fully charged, it should be givenregular ‘refresher’ charges every six weeks orso. This is particularly important on‘maintenance-free’ batteries, which will sufferpermanent reduction of charge capacity ifallowed to become fully discharged.3 If a discharged battery is suspected, thesimplest test for most owners is as follows.Leave the battery disconnected for at least twohours, then measure the (open circuit, or no-load)voltage using a sensitive voltmeter connectedacross the battery terminals. Compare thereading obtained with the following:Voltmeter reading Charge condition0.50 volts Fully discharged -

battery scrap12.30 volts 50% charged12.48 volts 75% charged12.66 volts or more Fully charged

4 If frequent topping-up is required and thebattery case is not fractured, then the batteryis being over-charged and the voltageregulator will have to be checked.5 If the vehicle covers a very small annualmileage, it is worthwhile checking the specificgravity of the electrolyte every three monthsto determine the state of charge of thebattery. Use a hydrometer to make the checkand compare the results with the followingtable:

Normal climates TropicsDischarged 1.120 1.080Half charged 1.200 1.160Fully charged 1.280 1.230

6 If the battery condition is suspect, firstcheck the specific gravity of electrolyte ineach cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss ofelectrolyte or deterioration of the internalplates.7 A further test can be made only by a batteryspecialist using a battery heavy dischargemeter. Alternatively, connect a voltmeteracross the battery terminals and operate thestarter motor with the ignition coil HT leaddisconnected from the distributor andearthed, and with the headlamps, heated rearwindow and heater blower switched on. If thevoltmeter reading remains aboveapproximately 9.5 volts, the battery conditionis satisfactory. If the voltmeter reading dropsbelow 9.5 volts and the battery has alreadybeen charged, it is proven faulty.

Charging8 In winter when heavy demand is placed onthe battery (starting from cold and using moreelectrical equipment), it is a good ideaoccasionally to have the battery fully chargedfrom an external source. The battery’s benchcharge rate depends on its code (see a Rover dealer or Lucas agent for details). For most owners, the best method will be touse a trickle-charger overnight, charging at a rate of 1.5 amps. Rapid ‘boost’ chargeswhich are claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are notrecommended, as they can cause seriousdamage to the battery plates throughoverheating and may cause a sealed batteryto explode.9 Ideally, the battery should be removed fromthe vehicle before charging and moved to awell-ventilated area. As a minimumprecaution, both battery terminal leads mustbe disconnected (negative lead first) beforeconnecting the charger leads.10 Continue to charge the battery until allcells are gassing vigorously and no further risein specific gravity or increase in no-loadvoltage is noted over a four-hour period.When charging is complete, turn the chargeroff before disconnecting the leads from thebattery.

5C•2 Starting and charging systems


4 Battery - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 First check that all electrical componentsare switched off to avoid a spark occurring asthe negative lead is disconnected. If theradio/cassette unit has a security code, de-activate the code temporarily and re-activateit when the battery is re-connected. Refer tothe instructions and code supplied with theunit.2 Slacken the terminal clamp nut then lift theclamp and negative (–) lead from the terminal.This is the terminal to disconnect beforeworking on any electrical component on thevehicle. If the terminal is tight, carefully ease itoff by moving it from side to side.3 Raise the plastic cover from the positive (+)terminal clamp and slacken the clamp nut,then lift the clamp and lead from the terminal.4 Unscrew the clamp bolt and remove theclamp from the battery tray (see illustration).5 Lift the battery from the tray, keeping itupright and taking care not to allow it tocontact your clothing.6 If the battery tray is to be removed, firstrelease any relevant wiring harness clips fromthe tray. Unscrew the six bolts securing thebattery tray in position and remove the tray. Ifnecessary, undo the two bolts securing thebattery tray mounting bracket to the body andremove the bracket (see illustrations).7 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps,tray and battery casing. If the bodywork isrusted as a result of battery acid spilling ontoit, clean it thoroughly and re-paint.8 Whenever the battery is removed, check itfor cracks and leakage.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the terminal posts andleads are cleaned before re-connection.Smear petroleum jelly on the terminals afterreconnecting the leads. Always connect thepositive terminal clamp first and the negativeterminal clamp last.

5 Charging system - testing 21 If the ignition warning lamp fails to lightwhen the ignition is switched on, first checkthe alternator wiring connections for security.If satisfactory, check that the warning lampbulb has not blown and is secure in its holder. If the lamp still fails to light, check the continuity of the warning lamp feed wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing andrepair.2 If the ignition warning lamp lights when theengine is running, stop the engine and checkthat the drivebelt is correctly tensioned andthat the alternator connections are secure. Ifall is satisfactory, check the alternatorbrushes and commutator. If the fault persists, the alternator should be renewed ortaken to an auto-electrician for testing andrepair.3 If the alternator output is suspect, eventhough the warning lamp functions correctly,the regulated voltage may be checked asfollows.4 Connect a voltmeter across the batteryterminals and start the engine.5 Increase engine speed until the voltmeterreading remains steady. This should beapproximately 12 to 13 volts and no morethan 14 volts.6 Switch on as many electrical accessories(eg: the headlamps, heated rear window andheater blower) as possible and check that thealternator maintains the regulated voltage ataround 13 to 14 volts.7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, thefault may be due to worn brushes, weak brushsprings, a faulty voltage regulator, a faultydiode, a severed phase winding or a worn ordamaged commutator. The brushes andcommutator may be checked but if the faultpersists, the alternator should be renewed ortaken to an auto-electrician for testing andrepair.

6 Alternator drivebelt -inspection, adjustment andrenewal

Refer to Chapter 1.

7 Alternator brush holder andvoltage regulator - renewal 3

Note: The vast majority of actual alternatorfaults are due to the voltage regulator orbrushes being defective. If the renewal ofeither assembly does not cure the fault, thenthe advice of an expert should be sought. Formost owners, the best course of action will beto renew the alternator as a complete unit. Inmany cases, overhaul will not be viable oneconomic grounds alone.

Removal1 While it is physically possible to remove thevoltage regulator and brush holder assemblywith the alternator in place on the vehicle,owners are advised to remove the alternatorso that it can be serviced in clean workingconditions.2 Unscrew the screws securing the voltageregulator and brush holder assembly to thealternator. Lift off the regulator/brush holder,disconnect the electrical lead and remove theregulator/brush holder from the alternator(see illustration).

Starting and charging systems 5C•3

4.6b Battery tray mounting bracketretaining bolts (viewed from underneath)

4.6a Battery tray retaining bolts (arrowed)4.4 Battery clamp bolt

7.2 Remove voltage regulator/brushholder from alternator and disconnect

wiring lead

5C


Inspection3 In most cases, the brushes will have wearlimit marks in the form of a groove etchedalong one face of each brush. When thesemarks are erased by wear, the brushes areworn out (see illustration). If no marks areprovided, measure the protrusion of eachbrush from the brush holder end to the tip ofthe brush. No dimension is given by Rover butas a rough guide, 5.0 mm should be regardedas a minimum. If either brush is worn to orbelow this amount, renew the voltageregulator and brush holder assembly. If thebrushes are still serviceable, clean them witha solvent-moistened cloth. Check that thebrush spring pressure is equal for bothbrushes and holds the brushes securelyagainst the slip rings. If in doubt about thecondition of the brushes and springs,compare them with new components.4 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-moistened cloth, then check for signs ofscoring, burning or severe pitting. If worn ordamaged, the slip rings should be attended toby an auto-electrician.


8 Alternator - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and remove the right-handfront roadwheel.3 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove theseven bolts securing the front undercoverpanel to the body and remove the panel.

Models with air conditioning4 Undo the two bolts and washers securingthe heat shield to the rear of the alternator,

then remove the nut securing the heat shieldto the engine and lift the shield out of theengine compartment.5 Disconnect the wiring connector from therear of the alternator.6 Slacken the adjuster pulley retaining nut,then turn the pulley adjusting bolt untilsufficient drivebelt free play is obtained to beable to disengage the drivebelt from thealternator pulley.7 Slacken and remove the three boltssecuring the alternator to its mounting bracketthen manoeuvre the alternator out of theengine compartment.

Models without air conditioning8 Unscrew the three nuts and washerssecuring the rear cover to the alternator andremove the cover. Release the wire retainingclip and disconnect the alternator wiringconnector (see illustrations).9 Slacken the lower alternator-to-adjustingarm bolt and the two upper alternator pivotbolts, then slacken the drivebelt adjusting boltuntil sufficient free play is obtained todisengage the drivebelt from the alternatorpulley (see illustrations).10 Remove the alternator adjusting arm andupper pivot bolts and manoeuvre thealternator out of the engine compartment.

Refitting11 If a new alternator is being fitted, it will benecessary to remove the pulley and coolingfan from the old unit. To do this, slacken the

pulley retaining nut whilst preventing it fromrotating by using a suitable Allen key to retainthe alternator shaft, or by clamping the pulleyfirmly in a vice equipped with soft jaws.Remove the pulley, cooling fan and fanwasher from the old alternator and, ensuringthat the pulley and shaft mating surfaces areclean, fit them to the new unit. Tighten thepulley retaining nut to the specified torquewhilst using the method employed on removalto retain the pulley.

Models with air conditioning12 Manoeuvre the alternator into positionthen refit its mounting bolts and tighten themto the specified torque.13 Locate the drivebelt on the alternatorpulley then adjust drivebelt tension asdescribed in Chapter 1.14 Reconnect the wiring connector to therear of the alternator then refit the heat shield,tightening its retaining nut and bolts securely.Reconnect the battery.

Models without air conditioning15 Manoeuvre the alternator into positionthen refit the adjusting arm and pivot boltsand tighten them lightly.16 Locate the drivebelt on the alternatorpulley and adjust drivebelt tension asdescribed in Chapter 1.17 Reconnect the wiring connector to therear of the alternator then refit the rear cover,tightening its retaining nuts securely.Reconnect the battery.


8.9b . . . and lower adjusting arm bolt (A)then rotate adjuster bolt (B) to slacken

drivebelt tension

8.9a Slacken upper pivot mounting bolts . . .

8.8b . . . and disconnect wiring connector8.8a Remove cover from rear of alternator . . .

7.3 Alternator brush wear limit marks(arrowed)


9 Starting system - testing 21 If the starter motor fails to operate when theswitch is operated, the following may be thecause:a) The battery is faulty.b) The electrical connections between the

ignition switch, solenoid, battery andstarter motor are somewhere failing topass the necessary current from thebattery through the starter to earth.

c) The solenoid is faulty.d) The starter relay is faulty.e) The starter motor is mechanically or

electrically defective.2 To check the battery, switch on theheadlamps. If they dim after a few secondsthen the battery is discharged. Recharge orrenew the battery. If the lamps glow brightly,operate the ignition switch and see whathappens to the lamps. If they dim, then youknow that power is reaching the starter motor,therefore the motor must be removed andrenewed or overhauled to cure the fault. If thelamps stay bright (and no clicking sound canbe heard from the solenoid), there is a fault inthe circuit or solenoid. If the starter turnsslowly when switched on, but the battery is ingood condition, then either the starter mustbe faulty or there is considerable resistance inthe circuit.

3 If the circuit is suspected, disconnect thebattery terminals (including the earthconnection to the body), the starter/solenoidwiring and the engine/gearbox unit earth lead,thoroughly clean their connections and refitthem, then use a meter or test lamp to checkthat full battery voltage is available at thesolenoid terminal of the battery positive leadand that the earth is sound. Smear petroleumjelly around the battery terminals to preventcorrosion. Corroded connections are the mostfrequent cause of electrical systemmalfunctions.4 If the battery and all connections are ingood condition, check the circuit first bydisconnecting the wire from the solenoidblade terminal. Connect a meter or test lampbetween the wire end and the terminal andcheck that the wire is live when the ignitionswitch is operated. If it is, then the circuit issound. If not, proceed to paragraph 7.5 The solenoid contacts can be checked byputting a voltmeter or test lamp across themain cable connection on the starter side ofthe solenoid and earth. When the switch isoperated, there should be a reading or lighted bulb. If there is no reading or lightedbulb, the solenoid is faulty and should berenewed.6 If the circuit and solenoid are provedsound, the fault must be in the starter motor.Remove the motor and check its brushes. Ifthe fault does not lie in the brushes, the motorwindings must be faulty. In this event, the

motor must be renewed, unless an auto-electrical specialist can be found who willoverhaul the unit at a cost significantly lessthan that of a new or exchange starter motor.7 If the circuit is thought to be faulty, firstcheck the starter relay which is situated in theengine compartment fusebox. A simple test isto temporarily replace it with one of the otherrelays from the fusebox, such as the cooling fan relay, which is known to be in agood condition. If this resolves the fault, thenthe starter relay is faulty and must berenewed. If not, check the ignition switch andwiring.

10 Starter motor - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up thefront of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the right-hand frontroadwheel.3 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securingthe bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove thepanel.4 Undo the nut and disconnect the batterycable from the main solenoid terminal.Carefully disconnect the spade connectorfrom the solenoid (see illustration).5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the startermotor support bracket to the gearbox (seeillustration).6 Slacken and remove the three starter motormounting bolts, noting the earth strap which isfitted to the upper bolt, and manoeuvre thestarter motor out from underneath the vehicle(see illustrations).

Refitting7 Refitting is a reverse of the removalsequence, tightening all nuts and bolts to theirspecified torque settings.


10.5 Starter motor support bracket-to-gearbox bolts

10.6a Starter motor lower mounting boltsviewed from underneath

10.6c Removing the starter motor10.6b Starter motor upper mounting boltand earth strap (arrowed) - viewed from

above

10.4 Starter solenoid main terminal nut (A)and spade connector (B)

5C


11 Starter motor - brush and solenoid renewal 2

1 Remove the starter motor.

BrushesRemoval2 Undo the two nuts securing the supportbracket to the rear of the starter motor andremove the bracket (see illustration).3 Undo the two screws and remove the smallcover and gasket from the centre of thestarter motor end cover (see illustration).Prise out the C-clip and withdraw anythrustwashers fitted to the armature end.4 Noting the alignment marks between the

end cover or grommet and the yoke, unscrewthe two through-bolts and withdraw the endcover (see illustrations).5 Carefully prise off the negative (field coil)brush retaining caps from the brush holderassembly then remove the springs and slidethe brushes out of the holder.6 Remove the nut and spring washersecuring the positive brush lead to thesolenoid terminal and slide the brush holderassembly off the end of the commutator.Withdraw the plastic insulating plate thenremove the positive brush retaining caps andsprings and remove the positive brushes fromthe holder (see illustrations).

Inspection7 In most cases, the brushes will have wearlimit marks in the form of a groove etched

along one face of each brush. When thebrushes are worn down to these marks, theyare worn out and must be renewed. If nomarks are provided, measure the length ofeach brush (see illustration). No dimension isgiven by Rover but as a rough guide 3.5 mmshould be regarded as a minimum. If anybrush is worn below this amount, renew thebrushes as a set. If the brushes are stillserviceable, clean them with a solvent-moistened cloth. Check that the brush springpressure is equal for all brushes and holds thebrushes securely against the commutator. If indoubt about the condition of the brushes andsprings, compare them with newcomponents.8 Clean the commutator with a solvent-moistened cloth, then check for signs ofscoring, burning, excessive wear or severepitting. If worn or damaged, the commutatorshould be attended to by an auto-electrician.

Refitting9 On refitting, slot the positive brushes intoposition in the brush holder then refit theinsulating plate, ensuring that the smallthreaded brackets are correctly positioned onthe brush holder and locate with the pins on the insulating plate.10 Fit the brush holder assembly to thecommutator and slot the negative (field coil)brushes into position in the brush holder. Withall the brushes in position, fit the brushsprings and secure them in position with theretaining caps. Check that the brushes are


11.7 Measuring starter motor brush length11.6c . . . and remove positive brushassembly from motor

11.6b . . . remove brush spring caps andsprings . . .

11.6a Remove plastic insulating plate . . .11.4b . . . then remove through-bolts andwithdraw end cover

11.4a Note alignment marks between yokeand grommet . . .

11.3 Remove cover to gain access toarmature C-clip

11.2 Undo retaining nuts and removesupport bracket from starter motor


free to move in their holders against springpressure.11 Refit the starter motor end cover,engaging it with the grommet, and aligning themarks noted on removal. Tighten the coverthrough-bolts securely.12 Refit any necessary thrustwashers to theend of the armature and secure them inposition with the C-clip. Refit the gasket andsmall cover to the end cover and tighten itsretaining screws securely. Connect thepositive brush lead to the solenoid terminaland tighten the nut securely.

13 Refit the support bracket to the motor andtighten its retaining nuts to the specifiedtorque.

Solenoid

Removal14 Slacken and remove the nut and springwasher securing the starter motor (positivebrush) lead to the solenoid and disconnect thelead from the solenoid terminal (seeillustration).15 Unscrew the two bolts and springwashers securing the solenoid to the starter

motor drive end bracket (see illustration).16 Release the solenoid plunger from thestarter engaging lever, then withdraw thesolenoid, noting the spring which is fitted tothe plunger (see illustration).

Refitting17 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the solenoid, itsplunger and the motor/solenoid matingsurfaces are clean and lubricate theplunger/starter engaging lever surfaces with asmear of grease (Rover recommend ShellAlvania).


11.16 . . . then release solenoid plungerfrom lever and remove assembly from

motor

11.15 Remove solenoid retaining bolts(one arrowed) . . .

11.14 Unscrew nut and disconnect startermotor lead from solenoid terminal

5C



9

Chapter 9Braking system

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) - component removal and refitting . . 26Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Front brake pads - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Handbrake cables - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Hydraulic fluid - level check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Pressure regulating valve - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 14Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Rear brake pads - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Rear brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Rear brake shoes - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Stop lamp switch - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 25Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Vacuum servo unit check valve - removal, testing and refitting . . . . 4

9•1

Contents

SpecificationsBrake systemType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dual hydraulic circuit, split diagonally on models without ABS and

front to rear on models with ABS. Disc front brakes. Drum rear brakesexcept on models with ABS which have rear disc brakes. Vacuumservo-assistance on all models. Cable-operated handbrake on rearbrakes

Front brakesType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disc, with single piston sliding caliperDisc diameter:

Non-ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 mmABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 mm

Disc thickness:New:

Non-ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.80 mmABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.60 mm

Minimum thickness after machining:Non-ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.70 mmABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.00 mm

Maximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mmBrake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm







54321

Rear brakesNon-ABSType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single leading shoe drumDrum diameter:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 mmMaximum diameter after machining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 mm

Maximum drum ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.012 mmBrake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

ABSType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disc, with single piston sliding caliperDisc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 mmDisc thickness:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 mmMinimum thickness after machining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 mm

Maximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 mmBrake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftServo vacuum hose-to-inlet manifold union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Brake hose union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28Master cylinder-to-servo unit nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13Master cylinder brake pipe union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Brake caliper guide pin bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24Brake disc retaining screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Front brake caliper bracket-to-hub bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 60Pressure regulating valve union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10Rear brake drum retaining screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Rear wheel cylinder-to-backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Rear brake caliper bracket-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30Handbrake cable-to-underbody retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16ABS modulator mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5ABS modulator brake pipe union nuts:

Upper union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Lower union nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

ABS front wheel sensor retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18ABS rear wheel sensor retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7ABS wheel sensor wiring bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7ABS rear wheel sensor cover and cover strap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

9•2 Braking system


1.0a Non-ABS braking system component layout

1 Primary hydraulic circuit2 Secondary hydraulic circuit3 Brake pipe - pressure

regulating valve to right-handfront hose

4 Brake pipe - pressureregulating valve to left-handfront hose

5 Brake pipe - pressureregulating valve to right-handrear hose

6 Brake pipe - pressureregulating valve to left-handrear hose

7 Brake pipe - hose to rear wheelcylinder

8 Brake flexible hose - brake pipeto front brake caliper

9 Brake flexible hose - rear wheel10 Handbrake cable11 Pressure regulating valve


General informationThe braking system is of the servo-

assisted, dual circuit hydraulic type. Thearrangement of the hydraulic system is suchthat each circuit operates one front and onerear brake from a tandem master cylinder.Under normal circumstances both circuitsoperate in unison. However, in the event ofhydraulic failure in one circuit, full brakingforce will still be available at two wheels (seeillustrations).

On models not equipped with an Anti-lockBraking System (ABS), a pressure regulatingvalve is also incorporated in the hydrauliccircuit to regulate the pressure applied to therear brakes and reduce the possibility of the rear wheels locking under heavy braking.On models equipped with ABS, the pressureregulating valve is fitted is but it is non-operational.

All models are fitted with front disc brakes.Models equipped with ABS are fitted withventilated discs, whereas non-ABS modelsare fitted with solid discs. The disc brakes areactuated by single piston sliding type caliperswhich ensure that equal pressure is applied toeach disc pad.

Non-ABS models are fitted with rear drumbrakes, incorporating leading and trailingshoes which are actuated by twin pistonwheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism isincorporated to automatically compensate forbrake shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings

wear, the footbrake operation automaticallyoperates the adjuster mechanism quadrantwhich effectively lengthens the shoe strut andrepositions the brake shoes to remove thelining-to-drum clearance.

ABS models are equipped with rear discbrakes. The disc brakes are actuated by asingle piston sliding caliper whichincorporates a mechanical handbrakemechanism.

On all models, the handbrake provides anindependent mechanical means of rear brakeapplication. Full details of ABS systemoperation are as follows.

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) -operation

ABS is available as an option on all modelscovered in this Manual. The systemcomprises a modulator block which containsan ABS Electronic Control Unit (ECU),hydraulic solenoid valves and accumulators,and an electrically-driven return pump. Onesensor is fitted to each roadwheel. Thepurpose of this system is to prevent wheellocking during heavy braking. This is achievedby automatic release of the brake on therelevant wheel, followed by reapplication ofthe brake.

The solenoids are controlled by the ECUwhich receives signals from the fourroadwheel sensors, which in turn monitor thespeed of rotation of each wheel. Bycomparing these speed signals from the fourwheels, the ECU can determine the speed atwhich the vehicle is travelling. It can then usethis speed to determine when a wheel isdecelerating at an abnormal rate compared tothe speed of the vehicle and therefore predictwhen a wheel is about to lock. During normal

operation, the system functions in the sameway as a non-ABS braking system.

If the ECU senses that a wheel is about tolock, the ABS system enters the ‘pressuremaintain’ phase. The ECU operates therelevant solenoid valve in the modulator blockwhich then isolates the brake caliper on thewheel which is about to lock from the mastercylinder, effectively sealing in the hydraulicpressure.

If the speed of rotation of the wheelcontinues to decrease at an abnormal rate,the ABS system then enters the ‘pressuredecrease’ phase, where the electrically-drivenreturn pump operates and pumps thehydraulic fluid back into the master cylinder,releasing pressure on the brake caliper so thatthe brake is released. Once the speed ofrotation of the wheel returns to an acceptablerate, the pump stops and the solenoid valveopens thereby allowing the hydraulic mastercylinder pressure to return to the caliperwhich then reapplies the brake. This cycle canbe carried out at up to 10 times a second.

The action of the solenoid valves and returnpump creates pulses in the hydraulic circuit.When the ABS system is functioning, thesepulses can be felt through the brake pedal.

The solenoid valves connected to the frontcalipers operate independently, but the valveconnected to the rear calipers, together withthe pressure regulating valve, operates bothcalipers simultaneously.

Operation of the ABS system is entirelydependent on electrical signals. To preventthe system responding to any inaccuratesignals, a built-in safety circuit monitors all signals received by the ECU. If aninaccurate signal or low battery voltage isdetected, the ABS system is automatically

Braking system 9•3

1.0b ABS braking system component layout

9


1 Primary hydraulic circuit2 Secondary hydraulic circuit3 Brake pipe - modulator to pressure

regulating valve4 Brake pipe - modulator to pressure

regulating valve5 Brake pipe - modulator to right-hand

front hose6 Brake pipe - modulator to left-hand

front hose7 Brake pipe - modulator to right-hand

rear hose8 Brake pipe - modulator to left-hand

rear hose9 Pressure regulating valve

10 Handbrake cable11 Brake flexible hose - brake pipe to

front brake caliper12 Brake flexible hose - brake pipe to rear

brake caliper

shut down and the warning lamp on theinstrument panel is illuminated to inform thedriver that the ABS system is not operational.

If a fault does develop in the ABS systemthe vehicle must be taken to a Rover dealerfor fault diagnosis and repair.

PrecautionsHydraulic fluid is poisonous. Wash off

immediately and thoroughly in the case of skincontact and seek immediate medical advice ifany fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes.Certain types of hydraulic fluid areinflammable and may ignite when allowed intocontact with hot components.

When servicing any hydraulic system, it issafest to assume that the fluid is inflammableand to take precautions against the risk of fireas though it is petrol that is being handled.Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paintstripper and will attack plastics. If any is spilt,it should be washed off immediately usingcopious quantities of fresh water.

Hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic, that is, itabsorbs moisture from the air, so old fluidmay be contaminated and unfit for further use.When topping-up or renewing fluid, alwaysuse the recommended type and ensure that itcomes from a freshly-opened sealedcontainer.

When working on brake components, takecare not to disperse brake dust into the air, orto inhale it, since it may contain asbestoswhich is injurious to health.

When servicing any part of the system,work carefully and methodically. Also observescrupulous cleanliness when overhauling anypart of the hydraulic system. Always renewcomponents (in axle sets, where applicable) ifin doubt about their condition and use onlygenuine Rover replacement parts, or at leastthose of known good quality.

2 Brake pedal - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Working inside the vehicle, undo the fivescrews and remove the right-hand lower faciapanel.2 Extract the R-clip and clevis pin securingthe servo unit pushrod to the brake pedal.3 Using pliers, carefully unhook the brakepedal return spring from the pedal to releaseall the spring tension.4 Slacken and remove the nut and washers(as applicable) from the brake pedal pivot boltthen withdraw the pivot bolt and remove thebrake pedal and return spring.5 Examine all brake pedal components forsigns of wear, paying particular attention tothe pedal bushes, pivot bolt and return spring,renewing as necessary.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Lubricate the bushes, pivot boltand clevis pin with multi-purpose grease.7 On completion, check the operation of thepedal and ensure that it returns smoothly toits at rest position under the pressure of thereturn spring.

3 Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting 3

Testing1 To test operation of the servo unit, depressthe footbrake several times to exhaust thevacuum, then start the engine whilst keepingthe pedal firmly depressed. As the enginestarts, there should be a noticeable ‘give’ inthe brake pedal as the vacuum builds up.Allow the engine to run for at least twominutes then switch it off. If the brake pedal isnow depressed it should feel normal, butfurther applications should result in the pedalfelling firmer, with the pedal stroke decreasingwith each application.2 If the servo does not operate as described,inspect the servo unit check valve, seeSection 4.3 If the servo unit still fails to operatesatisfactorily, the fault lies within the unit itself.Repairs to the unit are possible but specialtools are required and the work should beentrusted to a suitably equipped Rover dealer.

Removal4 Remove the air cleaner assembly.5 Remove the master cylinder.6 Disconnect the vacuum hose connectionfrom the grommet on the servo unit, takinggreat care not to damage or displace thesealing grommet (see illustration).7 Working inside the vehicle, undo the fiveretaining screws and remove the right-handlower facia panel.8 Extract the R-clip and clevis pin securingthe servo unit pushrod to the brake pedal (seeillustration).

9 Slacken and remove the four nuts securingthe servo unit to the engine compartmentbulkhead then remove the unit, noting thegasket which is fitted to the rear of the unit.

Refitting10 Prior to refitting, check the servo unit tovacuum hose sealing grommet for signs ofdamage or deterioration and renew ifnecessary.11 Fit a new gasket to the rear of the servounit and reposition the unit in the enginecompartment.12 From inside the vehicle, ensure the servounit pushrod is correctly engaged with thebrake pedal then refit the servo unit mountingnuts and tighten them securely.13 Refit the servo unit pushrod to brakepedal clevis pin and secure it in position withthe R-clip.14 Refit the right-hand lower facia panel,tightening its retaining screws securely.15 From inside the engine compartment,carefully ease the vacuum hose connectionback into position in the servo unit, takingcare not to displace the sealing grommet.16 Refit the air cleaner assembly and mastercylinder.17 On completion, start the engine andcheck for air leaks at the vacuum hose toservo unit connection and the operation of thebraking system.

4 Vacuum servo unit checkvalve - removal, testing and refitting

2Note: The vacuum servo unit check valve isonly available as part of the vacuum hoseassembly. Do not try to remove the valve, the servo unit connection, or the inlet manifold union from the hose or air leaks mayensue, necessitating renewal of the hoseassembly.


3.8 Vacuum servo unit and pushrodattachments

1 Servo unit mounting nuts2 Pushrod clevis pin3 R-clip

3.6 Master cylinder mounting nuts (A) andservo vacuum hose connection (B)


Removal1 Carefully unplug the hose connection fromthe vacuum servo unit taking care not todamage the sealing grommet.2 Unscrew the union bolt securing thevacuum hose assembly to the inlet manifoldand withdraw the hose assembly from theengine compartment. Remove the union boltfrom the hose end and discard the sealingwashers.

Testing3 Examine the hose for damage, splits,cracks or general deterioration. Make surethat the check valve inside the hose isworking correctly by blowing through thehose from the servo unit connection end. Airshould flow in this direction but not whenblown through from the inlet manifold union.Renew the hose and check valve assembly ifat all suspect.4 Examine the servo unit sealing grommet forsigns of damage or deterioration and renew ifnecessary.

Refitting5 Position a new sealing washer on each sideof the hose union and refit the hose-to-inletmanifold union bolt. Ensure that the hoseunion locating pin is correctly situatedbetween the lugs on the manifold then tightenthe union bolt to the specified torque setting(see illustration).6 Carefully ease the hose connection into theservo unit sealing grommet, taking care not todisplace or damage the grommet.7 On completion, start the engine and checkthe vacuum hose-to-servo unit connection forsigns of air leaks.

5 Hydraulic fluid - level check and renewal


6 Hydraulic system - bleeding 3

General1 The correct operation of any hydraulicsystem is only possible after removal of all airfrom the components and circuit. This isachieved by bleeding the system.2 During the bleeding procedure, add onlyclean, unused hydraulic fluid of the

recommended type. Never re-use fluid that hasalready been bled from the system. Ensure thatsufficient fluid is available before starting work.3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluidbeing already in the system, the brakecomponents and circuit must be flushedcompletely with uncontaminated, correct fluidand new seals should be fitted to the variouscomponents.4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from thesystem, or air has entered because of a leak,then ensure that the fault is cured beforeproceeding further.5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch offthe engine and select first or reverse gear,then chock the wheels and release thehandbrake.6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,unions tight and bleed screws closed. Cleanany dirt from around the bleed screws.7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir capand top the master cylinder reservoir up to theMAX level line. Refit the cap loosely andremember to maintain the fluid level at leastabove the MIN level line throughout theprocedure or there is a risk of further airentering the system.8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourself brake bleeding kits currently availablefrom motor accessory shops. It isrecommended that one of these kits is usedwhenever possible as they greatly simplify thebleeding operation and also reduce the risk ofexpelled air and fluid being drawn back intothe system. If such a kit is not available, thenthe basic (two-man) method must be usedwhich is described in detail below.9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle asdescribed previously and follow the kitmanufacturer’s instructions as the proceduremay vary slightly according to the type beingused. Generally, they are as outlined below inthe relevant sub-section.10 Whichever method is used, the samesequence must be followed (paragraphs 11and 12) to ensure the removal of all air fromthe system.

Bleeding sequence11 If the system has been only partiallydisconnected and suitable precautions were

taken to minimise fluid loss, it should benecessary only to bleed that part of thesystem (ie: the primary or secondary circuit).12 If the complete system is to be bled, thenit should be done working in the followingsequence:

Non-ABS modelsLeft-hand front brake.Right-hand rear brake.Right-hand front brake.Left-hand rear brake.

ABS modelsLeft-hand front brake.Right-hand front brake.Left-hand rear brake.Right-hand rear brake.

Bleeding - basic (two-man)method13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable lengthof plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fitover the bleed screw and a ring spanner to fitthe screw. The help of an assistant will also berequired.14 Remove the dust cap from the first screwin the sequence. Fit the spanner and tube tothe screw, place the other end of the tube inthe jar and pour in sufficient fluid to cover theend of the tube.15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoirfluid level is maintained at least above the MINlevel line throughout the procedure.16 Have the assistant fully depress the brakepedal several times to build up pressure, thenmaintain it on the final stroke.17 While pedal pressure is maintained,unscrew the bleed screw (approximately oneturn) and allow the fluid and air to flow into thejar. The assistant should maintain pedalpressure, following it down to the floor ifnecessary and should not release it untilinstructed to do so. When the flow stops,tighten the bleed screw again, release thepedal slowly and recheck the reservoir fluidlevel.18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleedscrew is free from air bubbles. If the mastercylinder has been drained and refilled and airis being bled from the first screw in thesequence, allow approximately five secondsbetween cycles for the master cylinderpassages to refill.19 When no more air bubbles appear, tightenthe bleed screw securely, remove the tubeand spanner and refit the dust cap. Do notovertighten the bleed screw.20 Repeat the procedure on the remainingscrews in the sequence until all air is removedfrom the system and the brake pedal feelsfirm again.

Bleeding - using a one-wayvalve kit21 As their name implies, these kits consistof a length of tubing with a one-way valve


4.5 Ensure hose union locating pin iscorrectly located between lugs on inlet

manifold

9


Hydraulic fluid is aneffective paint stripper andwill attack plastics. If any isspilt, it should be washed off

immediately using copious quantitiesof fresh water.

fitted to prevent expelled air and fluid beingdrawn back into the system. Some kitsinclude a translucent container which can bepositioned so that the air bubbles can bemore easily seen flowing from the end of thetube (see illustration).22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,which is then opened. The user returns to thedriver’s seat and depresses the brake pedalwith a smooth, steady stroke and slowlyreleases it. This sequence is repeated until theexpelled fluid is clear of air bubbles.23 Note that these kits simplify work somuch that it is easy to forget the mastercylinder reservoir fluid level. Ensure that this ismaintained at least above the MIN level line atall times.

Bleeding - using a pressurebleeding kit24 These kits are usually operated by thereservoir of pressurised air contained in thespare tyre, although note that it will probablybe necessary to reduce the pressure to alower limit than normal. Refer to theinstructions supplied with the kit.25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filledcontainer to the master cylinder reservoir,bleeding can be carried out simply by openingeach screw in turn (in the specified sequence)and allowing the fluid to flow out until no moreair bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.26 This method has the advantage that thelarge reservoir of fluid provides an additionalsafeguard against air being drawn into thesystem during bleeding.27 Pressure bleeding is particularly effectivewhen bleeding ‘difficult’ systems or whenbleeding the complete system at the time ofroutine fluid renewal.

All methods28 When bleeding is complete and firm pedalfeel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid, tightenthe bleed screws securely and refit their dustcaps.29 Check the hydraulic fluid level and top upif necessary.30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has beenbled from the system as it will not be fit for re-use.31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it

feels at all spongy, air must still be present inthe system and further bleeding is required.Failure to bleed satisfactorily after areasonable repetition of the bleedingprocedure may be due to worn mastercylinder seals.

7 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -inspection

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 6.

8 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -renewal 3

1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,minimise fluid loss by removing the mastercylinder reservoir cap and then tightening itdown onto a piece of polythene (taking carenot to damage the sender unit) to obtain anairtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses canbe sealed by using a proprietary brake hoseclamp, while metal brake pipe unions can beplugged (if care is taken not to allow dirt intothe system) or capped immediately they aredisconnected (see illustration). Place a wadof rag under any union that is to bedisconnected to catch any spilt fluid.2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,unscrew the brake pipe union nut beforeremoving the spring clip which secures thehose to its mounting bracket.3 To unscrew the union nuts it is preferable toobtain a brake pipe spanner of the correctsize. These spanners are available from mostlarge motor accessory shops (seeillustration). Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required, though if thenuts are tight or corroded, their flats may berounded-off if the spanner slips. In such acase, a self-locking wrench is often the onlyway to unscrew a stubborn union but it followsthat the pipe and the damaged nuts must berenewed on reassembly. Always clean a unionand surrounding area before disconnecting it.If disconnecting a component with more thanone union, make a careful note of theconnections before disturbing any of them.

4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, then it canbe obtained from Rover dealers, cut to lengthand with the union nuts and end flares inplace. All that is then necessary is to bend itto shape, following the line of the original,before fitting it to the vehicle. Alternatively,most motor accessory shops can make upbrake pipes from kits but this requires verycareful measurement of the original to ensurethat the replacement is of the correct length.The safest answer is usually to take theoriginal to the shop as a pattern.5 On refitting, do not overtighten the unionnuts. The specified torque wrench settings,where given, are not high and it is notnecessary to exercise brute force to obtain asound joint. When refitting flexible hoses,always renew any sealing washers used.6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses arecorrectly routed with no kinks and that theyare secured in the clips or brackets provided.After fitting, remove the polythene from thereservoir and bleed the hydraulic system.Wash off any spilt fluid and check carefully forfluid leaks.

9 Master cylinder - removal,overhaul and refitting 4

Warning: Do not syphon brakefluid by mouth as it ispoisonous.

Note: Before attempting to overhaul themaster cylinder, check the price andavailability of individual components andcompare this with the price of a new orreconditioned unit, as overhaul may not beviable on economic grounds alone.

Removal1 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap,having disconnected the sender unit wiringconnector, and syphon all hydraulic fluid fromthe reservoir. Do not syphon the fluid by mouthas it is poisonous but use a syringe or an oldpoultry baster. Alternatively, open anyconvenient bleed screw in the system andgently pump the brake pedal to expel the fluidthrough a plastic tube connected to the screw.


8.1 Using a brake hose clamp to minimisefluid loss

6.21 Using a one-way valve kit to bleedbraking system


8.3 Using a brake pipe spanner tounscrew a union nut

2 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipeunions on the side of the master cylinder andplace absorbent rags beneath the pipe unionsto catch any surplus fluid. Unscrew the twounion nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes.Plug or tape over the pipe ends and mastercylinder orifices to minimise loss of brake fluidand to prevent the entry of dirt into thesystem. Wash off any spilt fluid immediatelywith cold water.3 Slacken and remove the two nuts andwashers securing the master cylinder to thevacuum servo unit then withdraw the unit fromthe engine compartment. Remove the O-ringfrom the rear of the master cylinder anddiscard it.

Overhaul4 Remove the master cylinder from thevehicle as described above and clean itthoroughly.5 Carefully prise the reservoir from the mastercylinder body and remove the two mountingseals (see illustrations).6 Prepare a clean working surface andproceed as follows.

Non-ABS system7 Using a wooden dowel, press the primarypiston in as far as possible and extract the

secondary piston stop pin from the reservoirinlet port, then remove the retaining circlip.8 Noting the order of removal and thedirection of fitting of each component,withdraw the piston assemblies with theirsprings and seals, tapping the body on to aclean wooden surface to dislodge them. Ifnecessary, clamp the master cylinder body ina vice (fitted with soft jaw covers) and usecompressed air of low pressure (appliedthrough the secondary circuit fluid port) toassist the removal of the secondary pistonassembly.9 Thoroughly clean all components usingonly methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol orclean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.Never use mineral-based solvents such aspetrol or paraffin which will attack thehydraulic system’s rubber components. Drythe components immediately usingcompressed air or a clean, lint-free cloth.10 Check all components and renew any thatare worn or damaged. Check particularly thecylinder bores and pistons. The completeassembly should be renewed if these arescratched, worn or corroded. If there is anydoubt about the condition of the assembly orof any of its components, renew it. Check thatthe body’s inlet and bypass ports are clear.

11 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtaina repair kit. Renew all seals and O-ringsdisturbed on dismantling, never re-use them.Renew also any other items included in therepair kit.12 On reassembly, soak the pistons and newseals in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear cleanfluid into the cylinder bore.13 Fit the new seals to their pistons, usingonly the fingers to manipulate them into thegrooves.14 Insert the pistons into the bore by using atwisting motion to avoid trapping the seal lips.Ensure that all components are refitted in thecorrect order and the right way round.15 Press the secondary piston assembly fullyup into the bore using a clean wooden dowel,then refit the stop pin.16 Refit the primary piston assembly, thensecure it in position with a new circlip.17 Press the new mounting seals into themaster cylinder body and carefully refit thereservoir ensuring that it is pressed fully intoposition.ABS system18 Carefully prise out the dust cap from therear of the master cylinder body and removethe flat washer.19 Using a wooden dowel, press the primary


9.5a Non-ABS master cylinder components

1 Master cylinder reservoir2 Mounting seals3 Secondary piston stop pin4 Master cylinder body

5 Spring6 Circlip7 Primary piston8 Secondary piston

9.5b ABS master cylinder components

1 Master cylinderreservoir

2 Mounting seals3 Master cylinder

body

4 Spring5 Secondary piston6 Retaining pin7 Grub screw8 Spring

9 Primary piston10 Washer11 Circlip12 Flat washer13 Dust cap

9


piston in as far as possible and extract thecirclip and washer. Withdraw the primarypiston assembly and spring.20 Undo the grub screw from the undersideof the master cylinder body then use thewooden dowel to press the secondary piston into the body and withdraw thesecondary piston retaining pin. Extract the secondary piston assembly and spring. Ifnecessary, the piston can be dislodged bytapping the master cylinder body on awooden block.21 Examine and overhaul the master cylindercomponents as described above inparagraphs 9 to 14.22 Fit the spring to the secondary pistonassembly and use a clean wooden dowel topress the assembly fully into the mastercylinder bore. Align the slot in the piston withthe retaining pin hole then insert thesecondary piston retaining pin. Refit the grubscrew and tighten it securely.23 Fit the spring to the primary pistonassembly and press the assembly into positionusing the wooden dowel. Refit the washer andsecure the piston assembly in position with thecirclip, ensuring that it is correctly located in itsgroove in the master cylinder bore.24 Fit the flat washer and refit the dust cap tothe rear of the master cylinder body.25 Align the lugs on the new mounting sealswith the slots in the master cylinder body andpress them into position. Carefully refit thereservoir, ensuring that it is pressed fully intothe master cylinder body.

Refitting26 Remove all traces of dirt from the mastercylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, thenfit a new O-ring to the groove on the mastercylinder body.27 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit,ensuring that the servo unit pushrod entersthe master cylinder bore centrally. Refit themaster cylinder washers and mounting nutsand tighten them to the specified torque.28 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions thenrefit them to the master cylinder ports and tighten them to the specified torquesetting.29 Refill the master cylinder reservoir withnew fluid and bleed the hydraulic system.

10 Front brake pads - inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

11 Front brake pads - renewal 2

Warning: Renew both sets offront brake pads at the sametime. Never renew the pads on

only one wheel as uneven braking mayresult. The dust created by pad wear maycontain asbestos, which is a health hazard.

Never blow it with compressed air orinhale it. An approved filtering maskshould be worn when working on thebrakes. DO NOT use petroleum-basedsolvents to clean brake parts. Use brakecleaner or methylated spirit only.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake then jack up the front of thevehicle and support it on axle stands. Removeboth front roadwheels.2 Remove the lower caliper guide pin boltwhilst, if necessary, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pin itself fromrotating. Pivot the caliper away from the discto gain access to the brake pads and tie it tothe suspension strut using a piece of wire(see illustrations).3 Remove the circular shim which is fitted tothe caliper piston (see illustration).4 Remove the brake pads from the calipermounting bracket whilst noting the correctposition of the pad retainer springs and padshims (see illustration).5 Measure the thickness of friction materialremaining on each brake pad (see illustration).If either pad is worn at any point to thespecified minimum thickness or less, all fourpads must be renewed. Also, the pads shouldbe renewed if any are fouled with oil or greaseas there is no satisfactory way of degreasingfriction material once contaminated. If any ofthe brake pads are worn unevenly or fouledwith oil or grease, trace and rectify the causebefore reassembly. New brake pad kits areavailable from Rover dealers and include newshims and pad retainer springs.6 If the brake pads are still serviceable,carefully clean them using a clean, fine wirebrush or similar, paying particular attention tothe sides and back of the metal backing. Cleanout the grooves in the friction material (whereapplicable) and pick out any large embeddedparticles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean thepad retainer springs and the pad locations inthe caliper body and mounting bracket.

Fitting7 Prior to fitting the pads, check that theguide pins are free to slide easily in the caliper


11.5 Measuring thickness of brake padfriction material

11.4 Removing pads with springs andshims

11.3 Removing circular shim from caliperpiston

11.2b . . . and pivot caliper away from disc11.2a Remove lower caliper guide pin bolt . . .


bracket and check that the rubber guide pingaiters are undamaged (see illustration).Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper andpiston but do not inhale it as it is injurious tohealth. Inspect the dust seal around the pistonfor damage and the piston for evidence offluid leaks, corrosion or damage. Renew asnecessary.8 On refitting, first fit the pad retainer springsto the caliper mounting bracket (seeillustration).9 Apply a thin smear of high-temperaturebrake grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly ButylCuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (egHolts Copaslip) to the sides and back of eachpad’s metal backing and to those surfaces ofthe caliper body and mounting bracket whichbear on the pads. Fit the shims to the back ofboth pads and apply a thin smear of lubricantto the back of each shim. Do not allow thelubricant to foul the friction material (seeillustration).10 Install the brake pads in the calipermounting bracket, ensuring that the frictionmaterial is against the disc.11 If new brake pads have been fitted, thecaliper piston must be pushed back into thecylinder to make room for them. Either use aG-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable piecesof wood as levers. Provided that the mastercylinder reservoir has not been overfilled withhydraulic fluid there should be no spillage butkeep a careful watch on the fluid level whileretracting the piston. If the fluid level risesabove the MAX level line at any time, thesurplus should be syphoned off or ejected viaa plastic tube connected to the bleed screw.12 Apply a thin smear of the recommendedlubricant (see above) to the circular shim andfit the shim to the caliper piston. Pivot thecaliper body down over the brake pads thenrefit the bottom guide pin bolt and tighten it tothe specified torque wrench setting.13 Check that the caliper body slidessmoothly in the mounting bracket, thendepress the brake pedal repeatedly until thepads are pressed into firm contact with thebrake disc and normal (non-assisted) pedalpressure is restored.14 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining front brake caliper.

15 Refit the roadwheels, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torquesetting.16 On completion, check the hydraulic fluidlevel.

12 Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 4

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluidmay be under considerablepressure in a pipeline, take carenot to allow hydraulic fluid to

spray into the face or eyes when looseninga connection.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle

and support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 Minimise fluid loss either by removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap and thentightening it down onto a piece of polytheneto obtain an airtight seal (taking care not todamage the sender unit), or by using a brakehose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool toclamp the flexible hose.3 Clean the area around the union, then undothe brake hose union bolt and disconnect the hose from the caliper. Plug the end of thehose and the caliper orifice to prevent dirtentering the hydraulic system. Discard thesealing washers as they must be renewedwhenever disturbed.4 Unscrew the two caliper guide pin boltswhilst, if necessary, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pins themselvesfrom rotating (see illustration).5 Carefully lift the caliper assembly off thebrake pads and remove the circular shim from


11.9 . . . and fit shims on pads11.8 Fit pad retainer springs to caliperbracket . . .

11.7 Check condition of guide pins andgaiters before refitting pads

12.4 Front brake caliper components

9


1 Bleed screw2 Caliper body3 Guide pin bolt4 Guide pin5 Gaiter6 Pad retainer spring7 Caliper mounting

bracket8 Inner pad shim9 Brake pads

10 Outer pad shim11 Piston seal12 Piston13 Dust seal14 Circular shim

the caliper piston. Note that the brake padsneed not be disturbed and can be left inposition in the caliper mounting bracket.

Overhaul6 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away alltraces of dust and dirt. Avoid inhaling the dustas it is injurious to health.7 Withdraw the piston from the caliper bodyand remove the dust seal. The piston can bewithdrawn by hand or if necessary, pushedout by applying compressed air to the unionbolt hole. Only low pressure should berequired such as is generated by a foot pump.8 Using a small screwdriver, extract thepiston hydraulic seal whilst taking great carenot to damage the caliper bore.9 Withdraw the guide pins from the calipermounting bracket and remove the guide pingaiters.10 Thoroughly clean all components usingonly methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol orclean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.Never use mineral-based solvents such aspetrol or paraffin which will attack thehydraulic system’s rubber components. Drythe components immediately usingcompressed air or a clean, lint-free cloth. Usecompressed air to blow clear the fluidpassages.11 Check all components and renew any thatare worn or damaged. Check particularly thecylinder bore and piston. These should berenewed (note that this means the renewal ofthe complete body assembly) if they arescratched, worn or corroded in any way.Similarly, check the condition of the guidepins and their bores in the mounting bracket.Both guide pins should be undamaged and(when cleaned) a reasonably tight sliding fit inthe mounting bracket bores. If there is anydoubt about the condition of any component,renew it.12 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtainthe appropriate repair kit. Components areavailable from Rover dealers in variouscombinations.13 Renew all rubber seals, dust covers andcaps. Also the sealing washers disturbed ondismantling.14 On reassembly, ensure that allcomponents are absolutely clean and dry.

15 Soak the piston and the new piston (fluid)seal in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear clean fluidon the cylinder bore surface.16 Fit the new piston (fluid) seal using onlythe fingers to manipulate it into the cylinderbore groove. Fit the new dust seal to thepiston and refit it to the cylinder bore using atwisting motion, ensuring that the pistonenters squarely into the bore. Press the pistonfully into the bore, then secure the dust seal tothe caliper body.17 Apply the grease supplied in the repair kit,or a good quality high-temperature brakegrease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (eg HoltsCopaslip), to the guide pins and fit the newgaiters. Fit the guide pins to the calipermounting bracket, ensuring that the gaitersare correctly located in the grooves on boththe guide pin and mounting bracket.

Refitting18 Refit the circular shim to the piston andcarefully slide the caliper into position over thebrake pads. Refit the caliper guide pin boltsand tighten them to the specified torquesetting.19 Position a new sealing washer on eachside of the hose union and refit the brake hoseunion bolt. Ensure that the brake hose union iscorrectly positioned between the lugs on thecaliper then tighten the union bolt to thespecified torque setting.20 Remove the brake hose clamp, wherefitted, and bleed the hydraulic system.Providing the precautions described weretaken to minimise brake fluid loss, it shouldonly be necessary to bleed the relevant frontbrake.21 Refit the roadwheel then lower the vehicleto the ground and tighten the roadwheel nutsto the specified torque.

13 Front brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 3

Note: If either brake disc requires renewal,both should be renewed at the same time toensure even and consistent braking.

Inspection1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicleand support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 Slowly rotate the brake disc so that the fullarea of both sides can be checked. Removethe brake pads if better access is required to the inboard surface. Light scoring is normalin the area swept by the brake pads but ifheavy scoring is found, then the disc must berenewed. The only alternative to this is to havethe disc surface-ground until it is flat again,but this must not reduce the disc to less thanthe minimum thickness specified.3 It is normal to find a lip of rust and brakedust around the disc’s perimeter. This can bescraped off if required. If, however, a lip hasformed due to excessive wear of the brakepad swept area, then the disc’s thicknessmust be measured by using a micrometer(see illustration). Take measurements at fourplaces around the disc at the inside andoutside of the pad swept area. If the disc hasworn at any point to the specified minimumthickness or less, then it must be renewed.4 If the disc is thought to be warped, it can bechecked for run-out (at a point 6.0 mm in fromthe disc’s outer edge) by either using a dialgauge mounted on any convenient fixed point,while the disc is slowly rotated, or by usingfeeler gauges to measure (at several points allaround the disc) the clearance between thedisc and a fixed point, such as the calipermounting bracket (see illustration). If themeasurements obtained are at the specifiedmaximum or beyond, the disc is excessivelywarped and must be renewed. However, it isworth checking first that the hub bearing is ingood condition. Also, try the effect of removingthe disc and turning it through 180º toreposition it on the hub. If run-out is stillexcessive the disc must be renewed.5 Check the disc for cracks, especiallyaround the stud holes, and any other wear ordamage. Renew it if any of these are found.

Removal6 Unscrew the two bolts securing the calipermounting bracket to the swivel hub and slide thecaliper assembly off the disc (see illustration).


13.6 Removing caliper assembly13.4 Using a dial gauge to check brakedisc run-out

13.3 Using a micrometer to measurebrake disc thickness


Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliper tothe front suspension coil spring to avoid placingany strain on the hydraulic brake hose.7 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationshipof the disc to the hub, then remove the twoscrews securing the brake disc to the hub andremove the disc. If the disc is a tight fit on thehub it can be drawn off by screwing two boltsinto the jacking holes provided (seeillustrations).

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

disc and hub are clean and flat.b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on

removal.c) If a new disc has been fitted, use a

suitable solvent to wipe any preservativecoating from the disc before refitting thecaliper.

d) Tighten the disc retaining screws, caliperbracket bolts and roadwheel nuts to theirspecified torque wrench settings.

14 Pressure regulating valve -testing, removal and refitting 3

Testing1 The pressure regulating valve is mountedon the right-hand side of the enginecompartment bulkhead.2 Specialist equipment is required to checkvalve performance. If the valve is thought tobe faulty, the vehicle should be taken to asuitably equipped Rover dealer for testing.However, in the event of an internal failure,brake fluid will seep from the plug on the frontface of the valve which is situated directlyabove the lower two hose unions (seeillustration). Repairs are not possible and, iffaulty, the valve must be renewed.

Removal3 Disconnect the sender unit wiringconnector and unscrew the master cylinderreservoir filler cap. Place a piece of polytheneover the filler neck and securely refit the cap(taking care not to damage the sender unit).This will minimise brake fluid loss duringsubsequent operations. As an addedprecaution, place absorbent rags beneath thepressure regulating valve brake pipe unions.4 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipeunions on the pressure regulating valve, thenmake a note of how the pipes are arranged forreference on refitting. Unscrew the union nutsand carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tapeover the pipe ends and valve orifices tominimise the loss of brake fluid and to preventthe entry of dirt into the system. Wash off anyspilt fluid immediately with cold water.5 Slacken the two bolts which secure thevalve to the bulkhead and remove it from theengine compartment.

Refitting6 Refit the pressure regulating valve to thebulkhead and tighten its mounting boltssecurely.7 Wipe the brake pipe unions clean and refitthem to the valve, using the notes made on

dismantling to ensure they are correctlypositioned. Tighten the union nuts to thespecified torque.8 Remove the polythene from the mastercylinder reservoir filler neck and bleed thecomplete hydraulic system.

15 Rear brake shoes -inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

16 Rear brake shoes - renewal 3Warning: Brake shoes must berenewed on both rear wheels atthe same time. Never renew the

shoes on only one wheel as unevenbraking may result.

Removal1 Remove the brake drum.2 Working carefully and noting allprecautions, remove all traces of brake dustfrom the brake drum, backplate and shoes.3 Measure the thickness of friction materialremaining on each brake shoe at severalpoints. If either shoe is worn at any point tothe specified minimum thickness or less, allfour shoes must be renewed as a set. Also,the shoes should be renewed if any are fouledwith oil or grease as there is no satisfactoryway of degreasing friction material oncecontaminated.4 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenlyor fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectifythe cause before reassembly.5 To remove the brake shoes, first removethe shoe retainer springs and pins, using apair of pliers to press in each retainer clip untilit can be rotated through 90º and released.Ease the shoes out one at a time from the


14.2 In the event of failure, fluid will seepfrom pressure regulating valve plug

(arrowed)

13.7b Drawing off a disc using two 8 mm bolts13.7a Removing disc retaining screws (jacking holes arrowed)

9


lower pivot point to release the tension of thereturn spring, then disconnect the lower returnspring from both shoes. Ease the upper endof both shoes out from their wheel cylinderlocations, taking great care not to damage thewheel cylinder seals, and disconnect thehandbrake cable from the trailing shoe. Thebrake shoe and adjuster strut assembly cannow be manoeuvred out of position and awayfrom the backplate (see illustrations). Do notdepress the brake pedal until the brakes arereassembled. Wrap a strong elastic bandaround the wheel cylinder pistons to retainthem.6 With the brake shoe assembly on theworksurface, make a note of the fittedpositions of the adjuster strut and springs touse as guide on reassembly (see illustration).Carefully ease the adjuster strut from its slot inthe trailing shoe and remove the short springwhich secures the two components together.Detach the upper return spring and separatethe shoes and strut.7 Examine the adjuster strut assembly forsigns of wear or damage, paying particularattention to the adjuster quadrant and knurledwheel. If damaged, the strut assembly mustbe renewed. Renew all the brake shoe returnsprings regardless of their apparent condition.8 Peel back the rubber protective caps andcheck the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks orother damage. Check that both cylinderpistons are free to move easily.

Fitting9 Prior to fitting, clean the backplate andapply a thin smear of high-temperature brakegrease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (eg HoltsCopaslip) to all those surfaces of thebackplate which bear on the shoes,particularly the adjuster and the wheelcylinder pistons. Do not allow lubricant to foulthe friction material.10 Ensure the handbrake lever stop on thetrailing shoe is correctly engaged with thelever and is pressed tight against the brakeshoe (see illustration).11 Fully extend the adjuster strut quadrantand fit the leading brake shoe into the adjusterstrut slot, ensuring that the strut spring and


16.10 Ensure handbrake stop lever iscorrectly located

16.6 Correct fitted positions of adjusterstrut and springs

16.5d . . . and manoeuvre shoe and adjusterstrut assembly away from backplate

16.5c . . . unhook lower return spring . . .16.5b Remove brake shoe retainer springs . . .

16.5a Rear drum brake assembly

1 Brake drum2 Drum retaining screw3 Backplate4 Lower return spring5 Brake shoe6 Retainer pin and spring

7 Adjuster strut8 Strut spring9 Upper return spring

10 Wheel cylinder retainingbolt

11 Bleed screw12 Backplate mounting bolt13 Seal14 Wheel cylinder15 Grommet


knurled wheel are situated on the underside ofthe strut assembly. Using a screwdriver, movethe quadrant away from the knurled wheeland set it in the minimum adjustment position.12 Fit the upper return spring to itsrespective location on the leading shoe. Fitthe trailing shoe to the upper return springand carefully ease the shoe into position in theadjuster strut slot. Once in position, fit thesmall spring which secures the trailing shoe tothe strut assembly.13 Remove the elastic band fitted to the wheelcylinder and manoeuvre the shoe and strutassembly into position on the backplate.Locate the upper end of both shoes with thewheel cylinder pistons and fit the handbrakecable to the trailing shoe operating lever. Fit thelower return spring to both shoes and ease theshoes into position on the lower pivot point.14 Tap the shoes to centralise them with thebackplate, then refit the shoe retainer pinsand springs and secure them in position withthe retainer clips. Check that the adjusterquadrant is still in the minimum adjusterposition and if necessary, reset as follows.Place a block of wood between the trailingshoe and hub, to prevent the shoe movingforwards, then lever the leading shoe awayfrom the hub to release the brake shoe returnspring pressure on the adjuster quadrant.With the shoe held in this position, reset thequadrant to the minimum adjustment setting(see illustration). Once the adjuster strut iscorrectly set, ease the leading shoe back intoposition then remove the block of wood andcheck that the shoes are still central.

15 Refit the brake drum and repeat the aboveoperation on the remaining rear brakeassembly.16 On completion, apply the footbrakerepeatedly to set the shoe-to-drum clearance,until normal (non-assisted) brake pedaloperation returns.17 Check handbrake cable operation and, ifnecessary, adjust as described in Chapter 1.18 Refit the roadwheels then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torque.19 Check the hydraulic fluid level.

17 Rear brake drum - removal,inspection and refitting 2

Note: If either brake drum requires renewal,both should be renewed at the same time toensure even and consistent braking.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.2 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationshipof the drum to the hub.3 With the handbrake firmly applied toprevent drum rotation, unscrew the drumretaining screws (see illustration). Fullyrelease the handbrake cable and withdraw thedrum.4 If the drum will not pull away, first checkthat the handbrake is fully released. If thedrum will still not come away, remove thegrommet from the rear of the backplate and,using a small screwdriver, disengage thehandbrake lever stop from behind the lever toincrease the shoe to drum clearance. Ifremoval still proves troublesome, the brakedrum can be drawn off by screwing two boltsinto the jacking holes provided (seeillustrations).

Inspection5 Working carefully, remove all traces ofbrake dust from the drum. Avoid inhaling thedust as it is injurious to health.6 Scrub clean the outside of the drum and check it for obvious signs of wear ordamage such as cracks around the road-wheel stud holes. Renew the drum ifnecessary.7 Examine carefully the inside of the drum.Light scoring of the friction surface is normalbut if heavy scoring is found, the drum mustbe renewed. It is usual to find a lip on thedrum’s inboard edge which consists of amixture of rust and brake dust. This should bescraped away to leave a smooth surfacewhich can be polished with fine (120 to 150grade) emery paper. If, however, the lip is dueto the friction surface being recessed byexcessive wear, then the drum must berenewed.8 If the drum is thought to be excessivelyworn or oval, its internal diameter must bemeasured at several points by using aninternal micrometer. Take measurements inpairs, the second at right angles to the first,and compare the two to check for signs ofovality. Provided that it does not enlarge thedrum to beyond the specified maximumdiameter, it may be possible to have the drumrefinished by skimming or grinding but if thisis not possible, the drums on both sides mustbe renewed.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) On fitting a new brake drum, use a

suitable solvent to remove anypreservative coating that may have beenapplied to its interior.

b) Use a clean wire brush to remove alltraces of dirt, brake dust and corrosionfrom the mating surfaces of the drum andthe hub flange.

c) Align (if applicable) the marks made onremoval.

d) Tighten the drum retaining screws and theroadwheel nuts to their specified torquewrench settings.


16.14 Reset adjuster strut prior to refittingdrum

17.4b Brake drum can be drawn off hub byusing two 8 mm bolts

17.4a Releasing handbrake mechanismstop lever

Remove rubber grommet (A) and use smallscrewdriver to depress handbrake lever

stop (B)17.3 Removing brake drum retaining

screws (jacking holes arrowed)

9


18 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting 4

Note: Before attempting to overhaul a rearwheel cylinder, check the price and availabilityof individual components and the price of anew or reconditioned unit, as overhaul maynot be viable on economic grounds alone.

Removal1 Remove the brake shoes.2 Minimise fluid loss by removing the mastercylinder reservoir cap and then tightening itdown onto a piece of polythene to obtain anairtight seal (taking care not to damage thesender unit), or by using a brake hose clamp,a G-clamp or a similar tool to clamp theflexible hose.3 Wipe away all traces of dirt around thebrake pipe union at the rear of the wheelcylinder and unscrew the union nut. Carefullyease the pipe out of the wheel cylinder andplug or tape over its end to prevent dirt entry(see illustration).4 Unscrew the two wheel cylinder retainingbolts from the rear of the backplate andremove the cylinder, noting the rubber sealingring which is fitted between the cylinder andbackplate.

Overhaul5 Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicleand clean it thoroughly.6 Mount the wheel cylinder in a soft-jawedvice and remove the rubber protective caps.Extract the piston assemblies.7 Thoroughly clean all components usingonly methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol orclean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.Never use mineral-based solvents such aspetrol or paraffin which will attack thehydraulic system’s rubber components. Drythe components immediately usingcompressed air or a clean, lint-free cloth.8 Check all components and renew any thatare worn or damaged. Check particularly thecylinder bore and pistons. The completeassembly must be renewed if these are

scratched, worn or corroded. If there is anydoubt about the condition of the assembly orof any of its components, renew it. Removethe bleed screw and check that the fluid entryport and bleed screw passages are clear.9 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtain arepair kit. Renew the rubber protective caps,dust caps and seals disturbed on dismantling,these should never be re-used. Renew alsoany other items included in the repair kit.10 On reassembly, soak the pistons and thenew seals in clean hydraulic fluid. Smearclean fluid on the cylinder bore surface.11 Fit the new seals to their pistons usingonly the fingers to manipulate them into thegrooves. Ensure that all components arerefitted in the correct order and the right wayround.12 Insert the pistons into the bore using atwisting motion to avoid trapping the seal lips.Apply a smear of rubber lubricant to eachpiston before fitting the new rubber protectivecaps.

Refitting13 Fit a new sealing ring to the rear of thewheel cylinder and place the cylinder inposition on the backplate.14 Refit the wheel cylinder retaining boltsand tighten them to the specified torque.15 Tighten the brake pipe union nut and, ifnecessary, remove the clamp from the brakehose.16 Refit the brake shoes.17 Bleed the hydraulic braking system. Ifprecautions were taken to minimise fluid loss,it should only be necessary to bleed therelevant rear brake. On completion, checkthat both footbrake and handbrake functioncorrectly before taking the vehicle on theroad.

19 Rear brake pads - inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

20 Rear brake pads -renewal 2

Warning: Renew both sets ofrear brake pads at the sametime. Never renew the pads on

only one wheel as uneven braking mayresult.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.Remove the rear roadwheels.2 Undo the two bolts securing the calipershield in position and remove the shield fromthe rear of the caliper.3 Remove both caliper guide pin bolts whilst,

if necessary, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pins fromrotating. Lift the caliper away from the disc,noting the upper pad spring which is fitted tothe roof of the caliper. Tie the caliper to thesuspension strut using a piece of wire to avoidstraining the hydraulic hose (see illustration).4 Remove the brake pads from the calipermounting bracket whilst noting the correctfitted positions of the brake pads, pad retainersprings and pad shims.5 Inspect the pads as described for the frontbrake pads and, if necessary, renew as acomplete axle set.

Fitting6 Fit the pad retainer springs to the calipermounting bracket.7 Apply a thin smear of Molykote M77compound to the sides and back of eachpad’s metal backing and to those surfaces ofthe caliper body and mounting bracket whichbear on the pads. In the absence of thespecified lubricant, a good quality high-temperature brake grease (silicone- orPBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-based) or anti-seizecompound (eg Holts Copaslip) may be used.Fit the shims to the back of both pads, notingthat the smaller shim must be fitted to thepiston side pad, and apply a thin smear oflubricant to the back of each shim. Do notallow lubricant to foul the friction material.8 Install the brake pads in the calipermounting bracket, ensuring that the frictionmaterial is against the disc and the pad withthe smaller shim attached is fitted on theinside.9 If new pads have been fitted, it will benecessary to retract the piston fully into thecaliper bore by rotating it in a clockwisedirection. This can be achieved by using asuitable pair of circlip pliers as a peg spanneror by fabricating a peg spanner for the task.Provided that the master cylinder reservoirhas not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid,there should be no spillage, but keep a carefulwatch on the fluid level while retracting thepiston. If the fluid level rises above the MAXlevel line at any time, the surplus should besyphoned off or ejected via a plastic tubeconnected to the bleed screw.10 Ensure the upper pad spring is still inposition in the caliper then slide the caliperinto position in its mounting bracket. Whenfitting the caliper, ensure that the lug on therear of the piston side pad is located in one ofthe piston slots. Refit the caliper guide pinbolts and tighten them to the specified torquesetting.11 Depress the footbrake to bring the pistoninto contact with the pads then check that thelug on the piston side pad is located in one ofthe piston slots. If necessary, remove thecaliper and adjust the piston position asdescribed above. Refit the shield to the rear ofthe caliper.12 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining rear brake caliper.


18.3 Wheel cylinder retaining bolts (A) andbrake pipe union nut (B)


13 Once both calipers have been done,repeatedly depress the brake pedal untilnormal (non-assisted) pedal operation returns,then repeatedly apply the handbrake to sethandbrake adjustment. Check the operationof the handbrake and, if necessary, adjust thecable as described in Chapter 1.14 Refit the roadwheels, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torque.15 Check the hydraulic fluid level.

21 Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 4

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.Remove the rear wheel.2 Undo the two bolts securing the caliper

shield in position and remove the shield fromthe rear of the caliper.3 Extract the spring clip and clevis pinsecuring the handbrake cable to the caliperhandbrake lever, then remove the clipsecuring the outer cable to its mountingbracket and detach the handbrake cable fromthe caliper.4 Minimise fluid loss by removing the mastercylinder reservoir cap and then tightening itdown onto a piece of polythene to obtain anairtight seal (taking care not to damage thesender unit), or by using a brake hose clamp,a G-clamp or a similar tool to clamp theflexible hose.5 Clean the area around the hose union, thenundo the brake hose union bolt anddisconnect the hose from the caliper. Plug theend of the hose and the caliper orifice toprevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.Discard the sealing washers as they must berenewed whenever disturbed.6 Remove both the caliper guide pin boltswhilst, if necessary, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pins fromrotating, then lift the caliper away from thedisc, noting the upper pad spring which isfitted to the roof of the caliper. Note that thebrake pads need not be disturbed and can be left in position in the caliper mountingbracket.

Overhaul7 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away alltraces of dust and dirt. Avoid inhaling the dustas it is injurious to health.8 Using a small screwdriver, carefully priseout the dust seal from the caliper bore.9 Remove the piston from the caliper bore byrotating it in an anti-clockwise direction. Thiscan be achieved using a suitable pair of circlippliers as a peg spanner or by fabricating a pegspanner for the task. Once the piston turnsfreely but does not come out any further, thenit can be withdrawn by hand, or if necessary,pushed out by applying compressed air to theunion bolt hole. Only low pressure should berequired such as is generated by a foot pump.10 With the piston removed, extract thecirclip from inside the piston and withdraw thethrustwasher, spring and adjuster nut.11 Remove the piston (fluid) seal whilsttaking great care not to scratch the caliperbore.12 Extract the circlip from the caliper boreand withdraw the spring cover, spring, springseat, bearing and adjusting bolt. Then removethe adjusting bolt piston, noting the O-ringfitted to the rear of the piston, and withdrawthe small pushrod.13 Slacken and remove the handbrake leverretaining nut and washer and remove thereturn spring, lever and dust seal. Withdrawthe handbrake mechanism cam from thecaliper and remove the cam washer.14 Withdraw the guide pins from the calipermounting bracket and remove the guide pingaiters.


9


20.3 Rear brake caliper components

1 Handbrake lever retainingnut

2 Washer3 Return spring4 Handbrake operating lever5 Dust seal6 Guide pin bolt7 Caliper body8 Bleed screw9 Pushrod10 O-ring11 Adjusting bolt piston12 Adjusting bolt

13 Bearing14 Spring seat15 Spring16 Spring cover17 Circlip18 Piston seal19 Circlip20 Thrustwasher21 Spring22 Adjuster nut23 Piston24 Dust seal25 Pad spring

26 Inner pad shim27 Brake pads28 Outer pad shim29 Pad spring30 Caliper mounting bracket31 Gaiter32 Guide pin33 Handbrake cable

mounting bracket34 Cam washer35 Pin36 Bolt37 Handbrake mechanism cam

15 Inspect all the caliper components asdescribed for the front brake caliper andrenew as necessary.16 On reassembly ensure that allcomponents are absolutely clean and dry.17 Apply a good quality high-temperaturebrake grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly ButylCuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (egHolts Copaslip) to the handbrake mechanismcam and refit the cam washer and cam to thecaliper. Fit the dust seal, lever, return springand washer and tighten the handbrake leverretaining nut securely.18 Fit a new O-ring to the adjusting boltpiston then insert the small pushrod into therear of the piston and install the adjusting boltpiston assembly in the caliper bore. Operatethe handbrake lever and check that the pistonis free to move smoothly then refit theadjusting bolt, followed by the bearing andspring seat. Fit the spring, so that its taperedend is innermost, then install the spring cover.Secure all the above components in positionwith the circlip, ensuring that it is correctlyseated in the groove in the caliper bore.19 Locate the adjusting nut with the cutouton the inside of the caliper piston and refit thespring, thrustwasher and circlip. Ensure thecirclip is correctly located in its groove.20 Soak the piston and the new piston (fluid)seal in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear clean fluidon the cylinder bore surface.21 Fit the new piston (fluid) seal using onlythe fingers to manipulate it into the cylinderbore groove and refit the piston assembly.Turn the piston in a clockwise direction, usingthe method employed on dismantling, until itis fully retracted into the caliper bore.22 Fit the dust seal to the caliper ensuringthat it is correctly located in the caliper andalso the groove on the piston.23 Apply the grease supplied in the repair kit,or a good quality high-temperature brakegrease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (eg HoltsCopaslip), to the guide pins and fit the newgaiters. Fit the guide pins to the calipermounting bracket, ensuring that the gaitersare correctly located in the grooves on boththe guide pin and mounting bracket.

Refitting24 Ensure the upper pad spring is still inposition in the caliper then slide the caliperinto position in its mounting bracket. Whenfitting the caliper, ensure that the lug on therear of the piston side pad is located in thecentre of the caliper piston at the point wherethe two piston slots cross. Refit the caliperguide pin bolts and tighten them to thespecified torque setting.25 Position a new sealing washer on eachside of the hose union and refit the brake hoseunion bolt. Ensure that the brake hose union iscorrectly positioned between the lugs on thecaliper then tighten the union bolt to thespecified torque setting.26 Remove the brake hose clamp, where

fitted, and bleed the hydraulic system.Providing the precautions described weretaken to minimise brake fluid loss, it shouldonly be necessary to bleed the relevant rearbrake.27 Refit the handbrake cable outer to itsmounting bracket and secure it in positionwith the retaining clip. Ensure the returnspring is located in the groove in the operatinglever then refit the handbrake cable to leverclevis pin and secure it in position with thespring clip.28 Depress the brake pedal several timesuntil normal (non-assisted) operation returnsthen check and, if necessary, adjust thehandbrake cable as described in Chapter 1.29 Refit the shield to the rear of the caliperand tighten its retaining bolts securely.30 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torque.31 Check the hydraulic fluid level.

22 Rear brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 3

Note: If either rear brake disc requiresrenewal, both should be renewed at the sametime to ensure even and consistent braking.

Inspection1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel.2 Inspect the disc as described for the frontbrake disc.

Removal3 Undo the two caliper shield retaining boltsand remove the shield from the rear of thecaliper.4 Undo the two bolts securing the calipermounting bracket to the trailing arm assemblyand slide the caliper assembly off the disc.Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliperto the rear suspension coil spring to avoidplacing any strain on the hydraulic brakehose.5 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationshipof the disc to the hub, then remove the twoscrews securing the brake disc to the hub andremove the disc. If the disc is a tight fit on thehub, it can be drawn off by screwing two boltsinto the jacking holes provided.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

disc and hub are clean and flat.b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on

removal.c) If a new disc has been fitted, use a

suitable solvent to wipe any preservativecoating from the disc before refitting thecaliper.

d) Tighten the disc retaining screws, caliperbracket bolts and roadwheel nuts to theirspecified torque wrench settings.

23 Handbrake lever - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 With the vehicle parked on level ground,chock the roadwheels so that the vehiclecannot move.2 From inside the vehicle, prise out the coverfrom the top of the rear centre console sectionto gain access to the two retaining screws.Undo the two screws and remove the rearconsole section.3 Remove the handbrake lever rubber gaiterand disconnect the wiring connector from thelever warning lamp switch (see illustration).4 Slacken and remove the handbrake cableadjusting nut from the rear of the lever andundo the bolts securing the handbrake leverassembly to the floorpan (see illustrationopposite).5 Lift the handbrake assembly out of position,noting the spring which is fitted to the leveradjusting rod.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Prior to refitting the handbrakelever rubber gaiter, adjust the handbrakecable as described in Chapter 1.

24 Handbrake cables - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Firmly chock the front wheels then jack upthe rear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. The handbrake cable consists of twosections (right and left-hand), which are linkedto the lever assembly by an equalizer plate.Each section can be removed individually.


23.3 Handbrake lever switch (A), mountingbolts (B) and adjusting nut (C)


2 From inside the vehicle, prise out the coverfrom the top of the rear centre console sectionto gain access to the two retaining screws.Undo the two screws and remove the rearconsole section.3 Slacken and remove the handbrake cableadjusting nut from the rear of the lever anddisconnect the equalizer plate, noting thespring which is fitted to the lever adjustingrod.4 Undo the two bolts securing the cable outerretaining plate to the floor pan (seeillustration). Remove the retaining plate thendetach the relevant cable inner from theequalizer plate and release the cable grommetfrom the floorpan.5 On models equipped with ABS, workingfrom underneath the vehicle, remove the twobrake caliper shield retaining bolts andremove the shield from the caliper. Extract the

spring clip and clevis pin securing thehandbrake cable to the caliper handbrakelever then remove the clip securing the cableouter to its mounting bracket and detach thehandbrake cable from the caliper.6 On non-ABS models, remove the relevantrear brake drum. Remove the trailing shoeretainer spring and pin, using a pair of pliers topress in the retainer clip until it can be rotatedthrough 90º and released. Ease the trailingshoe out of the lower pivot point to release thetension of the return spring, then disconnectthe lower return spring from both shoes.Disconnect the handbrake cable from thetrailing shoe then use a 12 mm spanner tocompress the handbrake cable retainingtangs and withdraw the cable from the rear ofthe backplate (see illustration).7 On all models, release the main silencerfrom its three rubber mountings and carefully

lower the tailpipe section to gain access to theheat shield. Undo the three heat shieldretaining bolts and remove the shield from thevehicle underbody.8 Work along the length of the cable sectionand remove all bolts securing the cable outerto the vehicle underbody and trailing arm.Once free, withdraw the cable fromunderneath the vehicle and, if necessary,repeat the procedure for the remaining cablesection.

Refitting9 Refitting is a reversal of the removalsequence noting the following:a) Lubricate all exposed linkages and cable

pivots with a good quality multi-purposegrease.

b) Ensure the cable outer grommet iscorrectly located in the floorpan and thatall retaining bolts are tightened to thespecified torque.

c) On non-ABS models, relocate the trailingshoe and refit the brake drum.

d) Prior to refitting the rear centre consolesection, adjust the handbrake cable asdescribed in Chapter 1.

25 Stop lamp switch - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 Working inside the vehicle, undo the fivescrews and remove the right-hand lower faciapanel.2 Disconnect the wiring connector from thestop lamp switch (see illustration).3 Slacken the stop lamp switch locknut andunscrew the switch from its mounting bracket.

Refitting and adjustment4 Screw the switch back into position in themounting bracket.5 Connect an ohmmeter across the stoplamp switch terminals and screw the switch inuntil an open circuit is present between theswitch terminals. Gently depress the pedaland check that continuity exists between the


23.4 Handbrake mechanism layout

1 Handbrake cable adjusternut

2 Equalizer plate

3 Bolts4 Cable retaining plate5 Grommet

6 Exhaust heatshield7 Bolts - cable to body8 Bolts - cable to trailing arm

25.2 Stop lamp switch wiring connector (A) and locknut (B)

24.6 Using a 12 mm spanner to compresscable outer retaining tangs

24.4 Handbrake cable adjusting nut (A),equalizer plate (B) and cable outer

retaining plate bolts (C)

9


switch terminals as soon as the pedal isdepressed. If necessary, reposition the switchuntil it operates as specified.6 Once the stop lamp switch is correctlyadjusted, hold the switch stationary andtighten the locknut securely.7 Connect the wiring connector to the switchand refit the lower facia panel.

26 Anti-lock Braking system(ABS) - component removaland refitting

3Modulator block

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminalthen undo the screw and remove themodulator relay cover (see illustration).2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from themodulator and free the wiring from itsretaining clip on the unit.3 Disconnect the sender unit wiringconnector and unscrew the master cylinderreservoir filler cap. Place a piece of polytheneover the filler neck and securely refit the cap(taking care not to damage the sender unit).This will minimise brake fluid loss duringsubsequent operations. As an addedprecaution, place absorbent rags beneath themodulator brake pipe unions.4 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipeunions then make a note of how the pipes arearranged for reference when refitting.Unscrew the union nuts and carefullywithdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipeends and valve orifices to minimise the loss of

brake fluid and to prevent the entry of dirt intothe system. Wash off any spilt fluidimmediately with cold water.5 Undo the earth lead retaining nut andslacken the modulator block mounting nuts.Disconnect the earth lead and remove themodulator assembly from the enginecompartment. Do not attempt to dismantlethe modulator block assembly. Overhaul ofthe unit is a complex job and should beentrusted to a Rover dealer.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Tighten the modulator block mounting

nuts to the specified torque.b) Refit the brake pipes to their respective

unions and tighten the union nuts to thespecified torque.

c) On completion, bleed the braking system.

Front wheel sensorRemoval7 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicleand support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.8 From inside the engine compartment,disconnect the relevant sensor wiringconnector and displace the sensor wiringgrommet.9 From underneath the vehicle, pull thesensor wiring lead through the wing valancethen undo the sensor lead bracket retainingbolts and remove the brackets.10 Slacken and remove the two boltssecuring the sensor unit to the wheel hub thenremove the sensor and lead assembly.

Refitting11 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure that the sensor and hub sealing

faces are clean then refit the sensor andtighten its retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque.

b) Ensure the sensor wiring is correctlyrouted and all bracket retaining bolts aretightened to the specified torque.

Rear wheel sensor

Removal12 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the appropriate roadwheel.13 Trace the wiring back from the sensor tothe wiring connector then free the connectorfrom its retaining clips and disconnect it.14 Undo the sensor lead bracket retainingbolts and remove the brackets.15 Slacken and remove the bolt securing thestrap to the sensor cover then undo thesensor cover retaining bolts and remove thecover.16 Undo the two bolts securing the sensor tothe rear hub assembly and remove it from thevehicle, along with the shim which is fittedbehind it.

Refitting17 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Ensure the sensor and hub sealing faces

are clean, then install the sensor and shimand tighten the sensor retaining bolts tothe specified torque.

b) Refit the sensor cover, cover strapretaining bolt and sensor lead brackets,then tighten all retaining bolts to thespecified torque.

c) Reconnect the sensor lead wiringconnector and refit the connector to itsretaining clip.

Reluctor rings18 The reluctor rings are not available asseparate items. The front rings are availableonly as an integral part of the outer constantvelocity joint assembly and the rear rings areavailable only as an integral part of the rearhub.19 The front reluctor rings are situated on theouter constant velocity joint and the rearreluctor rings are part of the stub axleassembly. Examine the rings for signs ofdamage such as chipped or missing teeth andrenew as necessary.

Relays20 Both the solenoid relay and return pumprelay are located in the modulator blockassembly. To gain access to them, undo therelay cover retaining screw and lift off thecover. Either relay can then be simply pulledout of position. Refer to Chapter 12 for furtherinformation on relays.


26.1 ABS system components


1 Servo unit2 Master cylinder3 Solenoid relay4 Return pump

relay5 Return pump6 Solenoid valves7 Modulator

block8 Reluctor ring9 Wheel sensor

10 System warninglamp


10

Chapter 10Suspension and steering

Front hub bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Front anti-roll bar connecting link - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 8Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . 10Front suspension strut - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . 6Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Front suspension tie bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Front swivel hub assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Power steering oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Power steering pump drivebelt - inspection and adjustment . . . . . . 24 Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Rear hub and bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Rear stub axle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Rear suspension lateral links - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 15Rear suspension strut - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . 14Rear suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Steering - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Steering column - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Steering gear - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Steering lock/ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Suspension - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Wheel alignment and steering angles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

10•1

Contents

SpecificationsFront suspensionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fully independent, by MacPherson struts with coil springs and integral

shock absorbers. Anti-roll bar mounted onto both lower suspensionarms

Rear suspensionType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fully independent double wishbone type, by trailing arms with

transverse lateral links, suspension struts with coil springs and integralshock absorbers

SteeringType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack and pinion, power-assisted steering available as an optionTurns lock-to-lock:

Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0Power-assisted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.4







54321

Wheel alignment and steering anglesAll measurements are with vehicle at kerb weightToe-out in turns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside roadwheel 17º 17’

Outside roadwheel 16º 21’ ± 2’Camber angle:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 20’ negative ± 0º 10’Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 50’ negative to 0º 50’ positive

Castor angle:Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º 59’ positive ± 0º 30’Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N/A

Steering axis inclination (SAI) or kingpin inclination (KPI) . . . . . . . . . . . . 12ºToe setting:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 10’ ± 0º 15’ toe-outRear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 11’ ± 0º 7.5’ toe-in

RoadwheelsType:

214 GSi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steel (alloy optional)All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steel

Size:214 S without ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 x 13214 S with ABS, 214, 414 Si and SLi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 x 14214 GSi:

Standard (steel wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 x 14Optional (alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 x 14

TyresType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tubeless, steel-braced radialSize:

214 S without ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 SR 13214 S with ABS, 214, 414 Si and SLi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/65 TR 14214 GSi:

Standard (steel wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175/65 TR 14Optional (alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185/60 HR 14

Pressures (cold) - 155 SR 13 tyres: Front RearNormal driving conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)Loads in excess of four persons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.3 bar (34 psi)Speeds in excess of 100 mph - all loads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)

Pressures (cold) - 175/65 TR 14 tyres: Front RearAll loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)

Pressures (cold) - 185/60 HR 14 tyres: Front RearAll loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar (36 psi) 2.5 bar (36 psi)

Note: Pressures apply only to original equipment tyres and may vary if any other make or type is fitted. Check with the tyre manufacturer orsupplier for correct pressures if necessary


Front suspensionDriveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 137Front suspension strut:

Upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24Swivel hub pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74Brake hose clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Upper mounting plate retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Anti-roll bar:Mounting clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Connecting link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Tie bar:Lower suspension arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59Retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Lower arm:Balljoint retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44Body pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

10•2 Suspension and steering



General informationThe independent front suspension is of the

MacPherson strut type, incorporating coilsprings and integral telescopic shockabsorbers. The MacPherson struts arelocated by transverse lower suspension arms,which utilize rubber inner mounting bushesand incorporate a balljoint at the outer ends,and forward facing longitudinal tie bars. Bothlower suspension arms are connected to ananti-roll bar via a small connecting link. Thefront swivel hubs, which carry the wheelbearings, brake calipers and the hub/discassemblies, are bolted to the MacPhersonstruts and connected to the lower arms viathe balljoints.

The fully independent rear suspension is ofdouble wishbone type, utilising pressed steeltrailing arms which have the roadwheel stubaxles bolted into their rear ends. These arelocated longitudinally on the vehicleunderbody via a large rubber bush which issituated towards the centre of each arm. Eachtrailing arm assembly is located transverselyby three lateral links, which utilize rubbermounting bushes at both their inner and outerends. The rear suspension struts incorporatecoil springs and integral telescopic shockabsorbers and are mounted onto the rearlower lateral link via a rubber mounting bush.

The steering wheel is of the energy-absorbing type (to protect the driver in theevent of an accident) and is attached by adeeply-recessed nut to the steering columnwhich is also collapsible. In the event of animpact, such as in an accident, the lowersteering column clamp and the upper columnmounting, fitted with energy absorbing

bending plates, is designed to allow thecolumn to slide downwards. The downwardsmovement of the column bends the mountingplates which absorb some of the energy, solessening the force transmitted to the drivervia the steering wheel.

An airbag is available as an option and,when fitted, is mounted in the centre of thesteering wheel. See Chapter 12 for full details.

The steering column has a universal jointfitted towards the lower end of its length andits bottom end is clamped to a seconduniversal joint, which is in turn clamped to thesteering gear pinion.

The steering gear is mounted onto theengine compartment bulkhead and isconnected by two track rods, with balljoints attheir outer ends, to the steering armsprojecting rearwards from the hub carriers.The track rod ends are threaded to facilitateadjustment.

Power-assisted steering is available as an

Torque wrench sett ings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Rear suspensionRear hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 137Drum brake backplate-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48Disc brake shield-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Brake hose bracket-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Handbrake cable-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Stub axle:

Retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 125Trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Rear suspension strut:Upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Upper mounting plate retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Lateral link pivot bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Trailing arm mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61

SteeringSteering wheel nut:

Without airbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 39With airbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 32

Steering column:Lower mounting bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10

Universal joint pinch-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31Steering gear mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Power-assisted steering gear:

Feed pipe union nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29Return pipe union nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 23

Track rod balljoint:Retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32Locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Power steering pump:Mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35Outlet pipe union nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Pulley retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Power steering oil cooler mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

RoadwheelsRoadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Suspension and steering 10•3

10


option on all models. The main componentsbeing a rack and pinion steering gear unit, ahydraulic pump which is belt-driven off thecrankshaft and the hydraulic feed and returnlines between the pump and steering gear.

PrecautionsThe driveshaft hub and stub axle nuts are

very tight – ensure the car is securelysuppoted when loosening and tighteningthem.

A number of precautions must be observedwhen working on the steering components ofvehicles equipped with airbags, these arelisted in Chapter 12.

2 Front swivel hub assembly -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake then jack up the front of thevehicle and support it on axle stands. Removethe appropriate front roadwheel.2 Using a hammer and suitable chisel nosed tool, tap up the staking securing thedriveshaft retaining nut to the groove in the outer constant velocity joint (seeillustration).3 Have an assistant firmly depress thefootbrake, then using a socket and extensionbar, slacken and remove the driveshaftretaining nut. Discard the nut. A new nut mustbe obtained for reassembly.4 If the hub bearings are to be disturbed,remove the brake disc. If not, undo the twobolts securing the caliper mounting bracket tothe hub and slide the caliper off the disc. Tiethe caliper to the suspension strut to avoidplacing any strain on the brake hose.5 On models equipped with ABS, remove thefront wheel sensor.6 Slacken and remove the bolt and washersecuring the anti-roll bar connecting link tothe lower suspension arm and undo the twobolts securing the tie bar to the lowersuspension arm.7 Extract the split pins and undo the nutssecuring the steering gear track rod and lowersuspension arm balljoints to the swivel hub.Release both the balljoints from the swivelhub by using a suitable balljoint separator,taking great care not to damage the balljointgaiters.8 Slacken the swivel hub-to-suspension strutclamp bolt then carefully ease the hub off thestrut. Once free, pull the hub outwards to freeit from the constant velocity joint splines, thenremove it from the vehicle (see illustration).Whilst the hub is removed, support thedriveshaft by tying it to the suspension strut toavoid damaging the inner constant velocityjoint or gaiter.


2.8 Removing swivel hub assembly

2.2 Front suspension components

1 Rubber cover 2 Self-locking nut3 Washer4 Strut upper mounting nut5 Upper mounting plate6 Bearing7 Upper spring seat8 Dust cover9 Coil spring

10 Washer11 Rubber damper stop12 Strut13 Strut lower clamp bolt14 Tie bar15 Bolt - tie bar to lower arm16 Nut - tie bar to subframe

17 Flanged washer18 Mounting bush19 Spacer20 Driveshaft retaining nut21 Brake disc22 Disc retaining screw23 Hub24 Disc shield25 Bolt26 Circlip27 Hub bearing28 Swivel hub29 Driveshaft30 Lower suspension arm31 Balljoint retaining nut

32 Lower arm pivot bush33 Lower arm pivot bolt34 Anti-roll bar connecting

link35 Bolt36 Nut37 Bolt - anti-roll bar

connecting link to lowerarm

38 Anti-roll bar39 Mounting rubber40 Mounting clamp41 Bolt42 Split pin43 Track rod balljoint


Refitting9 Refitting is reversal of the removalprocedure noting the following:a) Ensure that the lug on the base of the

suspension strut correctly engages withthe slot in the swivel hub assembly clamp.

b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque.

c) Where necessary, refit the brake discand/or ABS wheel sensor as described inChapter 9.

d) Use new split pins to secure the track rodand lower suspension arm balljointretaining nuts in position.

e) When fitting the new driveshaft retainingnut, tighten it to the specified torque thenstake it firmly into the groove in theconstant velocity joint by using a suitablepunch.

3 Front hub bearings - removal and refitting 4

Note: The front hub bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted and pre-lubricated, double-row rollertype, and is intended to last the vehicle’sentire service life without maintenance orattention. Do not attempt to remove thebearing unless absolutely necessary, as it willprobably be damaged during the removaloperation. Never overtighten the driveshaft nutbeyond the specified torque wrench setting inan attempt to ‘adjust’ the bearing.Note: A press will be required to dismantleand rebuild the hub assembly. If such a tool isnot available, a large bench vice and suitablespacers (such as large sockets) will serve asan adequate substitute. The service toolnumbers for the special Rover mandrels aregiven in the accompanying illustrations. Thebearing’s inner races are an interference fit onthe hub. If the outboard inner race remains onthe hub when it is pressed out of the hubcarrier, a proprietary knife-edged bearingpuller will be required to remove it.

Removal1 Remove the swivel hub assembly, thenundo the brake disc shield retaining screwsand remove the shield from the hub.2 Press the hub out of the swivel hub using atubular spacer (see illustration). If thebearing’s outboard inner race remains on thehub, remove it using a suitable bearing puller.3 Extract both circlips from the swivel huband discard them as they should be renewedwhenever disturbed.4 Press the bearing out of the swivel hub byusing a suitable tubular spacer (seeillustration).5 Thoroughly clean the hub and swivel hub,removing all traces of dirt and grease. Polishaway any burrs or raised edges which mighthinder reassembly. Check both for cracks orany other signs of wear or damage and renew

the hub if necessary. The bearing and itscirclips must be renewed whenever they aredisturbed. A replacement bearing kit isavailable from Rover dealers which consists ofthe bearing and both circlips.6 Check the condition of the roadwheel studsin the hub flange. If any are sheared off,stretched or have damaged threads, they canbe pressed out of the hub providing that itsflange is fully supported. On refitting, supportthe hub flange and press in the new stud untilit seats fully.

Refitting7 On reassembly, check (if possible) that thenew bearing is packed with grease and fit thenew circlip to the swivel hub outboard groove.Apply a light film of oil to the bearing inner andouter races and to the matching surfaces inthe hub and swivel hub to aid fitting of thebearing.8 Support the swivel hub outboard face and,using a suitable tubular spacer which bearsonly on the bearing’s outer race, press in thenew bearing until it seats against the circlip(see illustration). Secure the bearing inposition by fitting the second new circlip tothe swivel hub’s inboard groove.9 Fully supporting the bearing inner race,press the hub into the bearing and swivel hubuntil the hub shoulder seats against thebearing’s inner race (see illustration). Wipeoff any surplus oil or grease.

10 Refit the brake disc shield to the swivelhub and tighten its retaining screws securely.11 Refit the swivel hub assembly.

4 Suspension - inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

5 Front suspension strut -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, then jack up the front of thevehicle and support on axle stands. Removethe appropriate roadwheel.2 Extract the split pin and undo the nutsecuring the steering gear track rod balljointto the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank,using a suitable balljoint separator tool whilsttaking care not to damage the balljoint gaiter.3 Slacken and remove the bolt and washersecuring the anti-roll bar connecting link tothe lower suspension arm, then undo the two


3.4 Pressing hub bearing out of swivel hub3.2 Pressing out hub from swivel hub

3.9 Pressing hub into swivel hub - notesupport for bearing inner race

3.8 Pressing new hub bearing into swivelhub

10


bolts securing the tie bar to the lowersuspension arm.4 Undo the bolt securing the brake hoseretaining clamp to the strut, then remove theclamp and free the flexible hose (seeillustration).5 Slacken the swivel hub-to-suspension strutclamp bolt, then carefully ease the swivel hubassembly off the end of the strut.6 Working in the engine compartment,remove the rubber suspension strut cover.Use chalk or a dab of paint to mark therelative positions of the suspension strutupper mounting and body. Undo the threestrut upper mounting nuts and manoeuvre the strut out from under the wheelarch whilstnoting the seal which is fitted between theupper mounting plate and vehicle body (seeillustrations).

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustration):

a) Ensure that the marks made on removalare aligned when fitting the strut.

b) Ensure that the lug on the base of thesuspension strut correctly engages withthe slot in the swivel hub assembly.

c) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque.

d) Use a new split pin to secure the track rodballjoint retaining nut in position.

6 Front suspension strut -dismantling, inspection andreassembly 3

Note: Before attempting to dismantle the frontsuspension strut, a suitable tool to hold thecoil spring in compression must be obtained.Adjustable coil spring compressors are readilyavailable and are recommended for thisoperation. Any attempt to dismantle the strutwithout such a tool is likely to result in damageor personal injury.

Dismantling1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,clean away all external dirt then mount itupright in a vice.2 Fit the spring compressor and compressthe coil spring until all tension is relieved fromthe upper mounting plate (see illustration).3 Slacken the upper mounting retaining nutwhilst retaining the strut piston with an Allenkey (see illustration).4 Remove the nut and washer followed by themounting plate, bearing and upper springseat. Lift off the coil spring and damper pistondust cover and separate the two components.Slide the washer and rubber damper stop offthe strut piston.

Inspection5 With the strut assembly completelydismantled, examine all components for wear,

damage or deformation and check thebearing for smoothness of operation. Renewany of the components, as necessary.6 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.Check the strut piston for signs of pittingalong its entire length and check the strutbody for signs of damage. Test the operationof the strut, while holding it in an uprightposition, by moving the piston through a fullstroke and then through short strokes of 50 to100 mm. In both cases the resistance feltshould be smooth and continuous. If theresistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is anyvisible sign of wear or damage to the strut,renewal is necessary.7 If any doubt exists about the condition ofthe coil spring, carefully remove the springcompressors and check the spring fordistortion and signs of cracking. Since nominimum free length is specified by Rover, theonly way to check the tension of the spring isto compare it to a new component. Renew thespring if it is damaged or distorted or there isany doubt as to its condition.8 Inspect all other components for signs ofdamage or deterioration and renew any thatare suspect.

Reassembly9 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.Ensure that the spring ends are correctlylocated in the upper and lower seats and thatthe upper mounting plate retaining nut istightened to the specified torque.


6.3 . . . and remove upper mounting nutwhilst retaining piston with Allen key

6.2 Compress coil spring with suitable pairof spring compressors . . .

5.7 Align suspension strut lug with slot inswivel hub (arrowed)

5.6b Removing a front suspension strut5.6a Remove rubber cover and strut uppermounting nuts (arrowed)

5.4 Removing bolt securing brake hose tosuspension strut


7 Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake then jack up the front of thevehicle and support it on axle stands. Removeboth front roadwheels.2 From underneath the vehicle, undo thebolts securing the gearchange control rodrear rubber mounting to the vehicleunderbody. Remove the rubber mountingassembly and bolts, noting the correct fittedpositions of the mounting rubber spacers andmounting plate.3 Release the exhaust system from its frontrubber mountings, then undo the threegearchange linkage bellcrank assemblyretaining bolts and lower the gearchangelinkage assembly down onto the exhaustsystem.4 Slacken and remove the nuts and washerssecuring each end of the anti-roll bar to theconnecting links and remove the bolts (seeillustration).5 Mark the location of the clamp bushes onthe bar, then undo the mounting clampretaining bolts and remove the clamps. Makea note of the fitted position of the rubber bushsplits to ensure that they are positionedcorrectly on refitting (see illustration).Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar out over thegearchange linkage and exhaust system andremove it from the right-hand side of thevehicle.6 Carefully examine the anti-roll barcomponents for signs of wear, damage ordeterioration, paying particular attention tothe mounting rubbers. Inspect thegearchange mechanism control rod mountingrubber and bush for signs of wear ordeterioration. Renew worn components asnecessary.

Refitting7 Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar into positionfrom the right-hand side of the vehicle andrefit the connecting link bolts. Refit the

washers and tighten the nuts, finger tight only.8 Lubricate the mounting clamp bushes witha solution of soapy water then lever the bardown and slide them into position on the anti-roll bar. Ensure that the splits are on the rightside of the bushes then align them with themarks made on dismantling.9 Refit the anti-roll bar mounting clamps andtighten the retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque setting, then tighten the anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolts to the specifiedtorque.10 Refit the front gearchange mechanismlinkage mounting plate assembly retainingbolts and tighten them securely.11 Apply a smear of grease to thegearchange control rod bush and refit the rear mounting rubber assembly. Tighten themounting bolts to the specified torque settingand check that the gearchange mechanismoperates smoothly. Refit the exhaust systemto the front mounting rubbers.12 Refit the roadwheels then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torque.

8 Front anti-roll barconnecting link - removal and refitting

3Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle

and support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 From underneath the vehicle, slacken andremove the bolt and washer securing theconnecting link to the lower suspension arm(see illustration).3 Remove the nut and washer securing theconnecting link to the anti-roll bar, thenwithdraw the bolt and remove the connectinglink from under the vehicle.4 Inspect the connecting link rubbermounting bushes for signs of damage andrenew them if they are cracked, worn, split orperished. The bushes are a press fit in theconnecting link and can be pressed out and inusing a vice and two suitable sized tubulardrifts, such as sockets (one bearing on thehard outer edge of the bush and anotherbearing against the edge of the connectinglink).

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalsequence. Tighten both the connecting linkbolts to the specified torque setting.

9 Front suspension tie bar -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicleand support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 From underneath the front of the vehicle,slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body.Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove thepanel.3 Undo the nut securing the front of the tiebar to the front subframe then remove theflanged washer and mounting bush, notingwhich direction the flange is facing (seeillustration).4 Undo the two bolts securing the tie bar tothe lower suspension arm, then remove therod from the vehicle and slide the spacer,


7.5 Correct position of anti-roll barmounting bush split (arrowed)

7.4 Slacken and remove anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolts

9.3 Tie bar retaining nut is accessed fromfront of subframe

8.2 Anti-roll bar connecting link

10


mounting bush and flanged washer off the tiebar (see illustration).5 Examine all the components for signs ofwear or damage, paying particular attention tothe mounting bushes and tie bar threads.Renew components as necessary (seeillustration).

Refitting6 Slide the flange washer, mounting bush andspacer onto the tie bar threads. Ensure thatthe flange of the washer is facing away from the mounting bush and that the roundedsurface of the bush is facing the washer (seeillustration).7 Refit the tie bar to the front subframe and fitthe second mounting bush and flangedwasher. Ensure the flat surface of themounting bush is facing the subframe andthat the flange of the washer is facing awayfrom the mounting bush, then refit the tie barnut, tightening it finger tight (see illustration).8 Refit the tie bar-to-lower suspension armbolts and tighten them to the specified torque,then tighten the tie bar retaining nut to thespecified torque setting.9 Refit the front undercover panel and tightenall the panel and bumper flange boltssecurely.

10 Refit the roadwheel then lower the vehicleto the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.

10 Front suspension lower arm- removal, overhaul andrefitting

5Note: The lower arm balljoint is an integralpart of the lower arm assembly and is notavailable separately. If renewal of the balljointis necessary, then the complete lower armassembly must be renewed.

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicleand support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 Slacken and remove the bolt and washersecuring the anti-roll bar connecting link tothe lower suspension arm and undo the twobolts securing the tie bar to the lowersuspension arm.3 Extract the split pin and undo the nutsecuring the lower arm balljoint to the swivelhub. Release the balljoint shank by using a

suitable balljoint separator tool whilst takingcare not to damage the balljoint gaiter.4 Undo the lower suspension arm-to-bodypivot bolt and withdraw the lower arm fromthe vehicle (see illustrations).

Overhaul5 Thoroughly clean the lower arm and thearea around the arm mountings, removing alltraces of dirt and underseal if necessary, thencheck carefully for cracks, distortion or anyother signs of wear or damage. Check that the


10.4b . . . then remove pivot bolt (arrowed) and withdraw lowersuspension arm

10.4a Release balljoint from swivel hub assembly . . .

9.7 . . . then refit tie bar to subframe andinstall second mounting bush and flange

washer

9.6 Fit flange washer, spacer andmounting bush onto tie bar . . .

9.5 Renew tie bar mounting bushes ifdamaged (arrowed)

9.4 Tie bar-to-lower suspension arm bolts


lower arm balljoint moves freely without anysign of roughness and that the balljoint gaitershows no sign of deterioration and is freefrom cracks and splits. Examine the shank ofthe pivot bolt for signs of wear or scoring.Renew worn components, as necessary.6 Check the lower arm inner pivot bush andrenew it if worn, cracked, split or perished.Bush renewal is best left to a Rover dealer asa press, a special bush removal/refittingmandrel and a support are required (RoverService Tool Numbers 18G 1600/2 and 18G 1600/1 respectively). While the old bushcan be extracted using a strong bench viceand suitable sockets, it is unlikely that newbushes can be installed successfully withoutthe shaped mandrel (see illustration).

Refitting7 Offer up the lower arm and fit the arm tobody pivot bolt. Tighten the bolt by hand onlyat this stage.8 Insert the lower arm balljoint shank into theswivel hub and tighten its retaining bolt to thespecified torque. Secure the balljoint nut inposition with a new split pin.9 Refit the tie bar and anti-roll bar connectinglink to lower arm bolts and tighten them to thespecified torque.

10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torque.11 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,rock the suspension to settle the lower armbush in position then tighten the lower arm-to-body pivot bolt to the specified torque setting.12 Check and, if necessary, adjust frontwheel alignment.

11 Rear hub and bearings -removal and refitting 3

Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjustedand pre-lubricated, double-row tapered-rollertype and is intended to last the vehicle’s entireservice life without maintenance or attention.Never overtighten the hub nut beyond thespecified torque wrench setting in an attemptto ‘adjust’ the bearings.Note: The bearing is an integral part of thehub and can not be purchased separately. Ifrenewal of the bearing is necessary, thecomplete hub assembly must be renewed as aunit. The only component which is availableseparately are roadwheel studs.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the appropriate rearroadwheel.2 Prise out the cap from the centre of the hubassembly and, using a hammer and suitablechisel nosed tool, tap up the staking securingthe hub retaining nut to the groove in the stubaxle (see illustration).3 Have an assistant firmly depress thefootbrake then, using a socket and extensionbar, slacken but do not remove the hubretaining nut.4 Remove the brake drum or disc, asapplicable.5 Once the brake drum/disc has beenremoved, remove the hub nut and toothedwasher and pull the hub assembly off the stubaxle. If necessary, the hub can be drawn offthe stub axle using a three-legged puller.Discard the nut, noting that a new hubretaining nut must be obtained forreassembly.6 Check that there is no sign of free play inthe hub bearing and that the bearing innerrace rotates smoothly and easily without anysign of roughness. If there is any sign of wearor damage to the hub assembly or bearing,the complete hub assembly must be renewedas a unit.7 Check the condition of the roadwheel studsin the hub flange. If any are sheared off,stretched or have damaged threads, they canbe pressed out of the hub providing that itsflange is fully supported. On refitting, supportthe hub flange and press in the new stud untilit seats fully.

Refitting8 Prior to refitting the hub, inspect the stubaxle for signs of wear or scoring and, ifnecessary, renew it.9 Apply a thin smear of grease to the hubbearing seal and refit the hub assembly. Refitthe toothed washer, ensuring that its toothlocates with the groove in the stub axle. Installthe new hub nut, tightening it by hand only(see illustrations).10 Refit the brake drum or disc (asapplicable) but do not refit the roadwheel.


11.2 Prise off centre cap to gain access torear hub nut

10.6 Using special Rover mandrels to renew lower suspension arm bush

A Removing old bush B Fitting new bush

11.9b . . . and washer, ensuring its toothengages with stub axle groove

11.9a Refit the hub . . .

10


11 Have an assistant firmly apply thefootbrake, then tighten the hub retaining nutto the specified torque. Release the brake andcheck that the hub rotates smoothly thenstake the hub retaining nut fully into the stubaxle groove (see illustration). Refit the hubcentre cap.12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torque.13 Check and, if necessary, adjust rear wheelalignment.

12 Rear stub axle - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the rear hub assembly.2 On models fitted with rear drum brakes,remove the lower brake shoe return spring,then disconnect the handbrake cable from the

trailing shoe. Undo the bolts securing thehandbrake cable and brake hose brackets tothe trailing arm, then use a 12 mm ringspanner to compress the handbrake cableretaining clip and withdraw the cable from thebackplate. Remove the four bolts securing the backplate to the trailing arm and carefullyease the backplate assembly outwards andoff the end of the stub axle (see illustrations).Position the backplate assembly out of theway of the stub axle and tie it to the rearsuspension unit coil spring using a piece ofwire.3 On models fitted with rear disc brakes,undo the four disc shield retaining bolts andremove the shield from the trailing arm.4 On all models, using a socket andextension bar, undo the large stub axleretaining nut from the rear of the trailing armassembly (see illustration).5 Slacken and remove the four Torx boltssecuring the stub axle mounting plate to thetrailing arm assembly, then withdraw the stubaxle and remove it from the vehicle.

6 Examine the stub axle spindle andmounting plate for signs of wear or damagesuch as scoring or cracking. If damaged, thestub axle must be renewed.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, tightening all nuts and bolts to thespecified torque settings.

13 Rear suspension strut -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the appropriate rearroadwheel.2 Slacken and remove both pivot boltssecuring the rear lower lateral link to the body


11.11 Stake hub retaining nut firmly into stub axle groove 12.2a Using 12 mm spanner to compress handbrake cableretaining tangs

12.2b Backplate retaining bolts (arrowed) 12.4 Stub axle retaining nut (A) - Torx bolts are accessed via fourholes (arrowed)


and trailing arm (see illustration). On modelsequipped with ABS, undo the bolts securing thewheel sensor wiring lead bracket to the lowerarm and release the wiring. On all models, undothe lower suspension strut mounting bolt andremove the rear lower lateral link.3 On 214 models, from inside the luggagecompartment, prise off the trim cap to gainaccess to the rear suspension strut uppermounting nuts. On 414 models, remove therelevant luggage compartment side trim panelto gain access (see illustration).4 Remove the rubber cover and use chalk ora dab of paint to mark the relative positions ofthe suspension strut upper mounting andbody. Undo the two suspension strut uppermounting nuts and manoeuvre the strut outfrom under the wheelarch, noting the sealfitted between the upper mounting plate andvehicle body (see illustration).

Refitting5 Prior to refitting, examine the rear lowerlateral link mounting bushes and renew anywhich are worn or damaged.

6 Ensure the rubber seal is in position on theupper mounting plate then refit thesuspension strut, aligning the marks made onremoval (where necessary). Refit the uppermounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to thespecified torque setting and refit the rubbercover and trim cap/panel.

7 Offer up the lower lateral link and refit thelower suspension strut mounting bolt followedby both the lower lateral link pivot bolts.Tighten the bolts loosely. On modelsequipped with ABS, refit the wheel sensorwiring bracket retaining bolts and tightenthem securely.


13.2 Rear suspension components

13.4 Removing rear suspension strut13.3 Remove luggage compartment sidetrim to gain access to strut upper

mounting nuts - 414 models

10


1 Self-locking nut2 Washer3 Seal4 Mounting rubber5 Strut upper mounting nut6 Upper mounting plate7 Spacer8 Mounting rubber9 Rubber damper10 Dust seal11 Dust cover12 Coil spring13 Stop plate14 Rubber stop15 Strut16 Strut lower mounting bolt17 Strut lower mounting bush18 Rear upper lateral link outer bush19 Rear upper lateral link20 Rear upper lateral link inner bush21 Bolt - rear upper link to body22 Pivot bolt - rear upper link to trailing

arm23 Front lateral link24 Front lateral link bush25 Trailing arm26 Trailing arm mounting bush27 Bolt - trailing arm to body28 Pivot bolt - front link to trailing arm29 Pivot bolt - rear lower link to trailing

arm30 Rear lower lateral link31 Rear lower lateral link outer bush32 Rear lower lateral link inner bush33 Pivot bolt - rear lower link to body34 Rear hub35 Washer36 Rear hub retaining nut37 Hub cap

38 Brake drum39 Drum retaining screw40 Backplate assembly41 Backplate mounting bolt42 Disc retaining screw43 Disc shield44 Disc shield mounting bolt45 Brake disc46 Pivot bolt47 Washer

8 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicleto the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.9 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,rock the vehicle to settle the disturbedcomponents in position then tighten the lowerlateral link pivot bolts and the lowersuspension strut mounting bolt to thespecified torque.

14 Rear suspension strut -dismantling, inspection andreassembly

3Note: Before attempting to dismantle the rearsuspension strut, a suitable tool to hold thecoil spring in compression must be obtained.Adjustable coil spring compressors are readilyavailable and are recommended for thisoperation. Any attempt to dismantle the strutwithout such a tool is likely to result in damageor personal injury.

Dismantling1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,clean away all external dirt then mount itupright in a vice.2 Fit the spring compressor and compressthe coil spring until all tension is relieved fromthe upper mounting plate.3 Slacken the upper mounting retaining nutwhilst retaining the strut piston with an Allenkey.4 Remove the nut and washer followed by themounting plate assembly, noting the correctfitted positions of the mounting rubbers andspacer, and the upper spring rubber damper.Remove the coil spring then lift the dust sealand cover off the damper and slide thedamper stop plate and rubber stop off thestrut piston.

Inspection5 Examine all the rear suspension strutcomponents, using the information given forthe front suspension strut.

Reassembly6 Reassembly is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the spring ends arecorrectly located in the upper and lower seatsand that the upper mounting plate retainingnut is tightened to the specified torquesetting.

15 Rear suspension lateral links- removal, inspection andrefitting

5Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the appropriate rearroadwheel.

Front link2 Mark the position of the lateral link bodypivot bolt in relation to the body. This markcan then be used as a guide on refitting.3 Slacken and remove both the pivot boltssecuring the front lateral link to the body andtrailing arm and remove the link from thevehicle (see illustration).

Rear upper link4 Slacken and remove the pivot bolt securingthe rear upper lateral link to the trailing armassembly (see illustration).5 Undo the two bolts securing the innermounting to the vehicle body and remove thelink assembly from the vehicle.

Rear lower link6 Slacken and remove both the pivot boltssecuring the lower rear lateral link to the bodyand trailing arm. On models equipped withABS, undo the bolts securing the wheelsensor wiring lead bracket to the lower armand release the wiring. On all models, undothe lower suspension mounting bolt andremove the rear lower lateral link (seeillustration).

Inspection7 Examine the lateral link for signs of crackingand check the mounting bushes for signs ofwear or deterioration, renewing as necessary(see illustration). 8 The bushes are a press fit in the link andcan be pressed out and in using a vice and

two suitable-sized tubular drifts, such assockets (one bearing on the hard outer edgeof the bush and another bearing against theedge of the lateral link). 9 When renewing the inner bush on the rearupper lateral link, mark the position of thebush mounting plate in relation to the laterallink before removing the worn bush. Fit thenew bush so that the mounting plate is in thesame position in relation to the lateral link.This avoids placing any undue strain on therubber bush when the link is refitted to thevehicle.10 Examine the pivot bolt shanks for signs ofwear or damage such as scoring and renewas necessary.

Refitting11 Refitting is the reverse of removal, notingthe following:

a) Refit the pivot bolts and tighten themloosely.

b) When refitting the front lateral link, alignthe inner pivot bolt using the marks madeon dismantling.

c) With the vehicle standing on its wheels,rock the suspension to settle all disturbedcomponents in position then tighten allthe disturbed pivot bolts to the specifiedtorque.

d) On completion, check and, if necessary,adjust rear wheel alignment.


15.7 Examine lateral link bushes for signsof wear and renew if necessary

15.6 Removing rear lower lateral link

15.4 Rear upper lateral link to body bolts (A) and trailing arm pivot bolt (B)

15.3 Front lateral link to body mountingbolt (arrowed) is slotted to permit rear

wheel alignment


16 Rear suspension trailingarm - removal and refitting 5

Removal1 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands. Remove the appropriate rearroadwheel, then follow the procedure underthe relevant sub heading.

Non-ABS models2 Remove the rear hub assembly.3 Undo the bolts and remove the clips securingthe handbrake cable and brake hose bracketsto the trailing arm (see illustration). Removethe four bolts securing the backplate to thetrailing arm and carefully ease the backplateassembly outwards and off the end of the stubaxle. Position the backplate out of the way ofthe stub axle and tie it to the rear suspensionunit coil spring using a piece of wire.

ABS models4 Remove the two brake caliper shieldretaining screws and remove the shield fromthe caliper.5 Slacken and remove the bolts securing thehandbrake cable and brake hose retainingclamps to the trailing arm. Undo the two boltssecuring the caliper mounting bracket to thetrailing arm and slide the caliper off the disc.Tie the caliper to the rear suspension strut coilspring to avoid placing any strain on thehydraulic hose or handbrake cable.6 Remove the ABS rear wheel sensor.

All models7 Slacken and remove the three pivot boltssecuring the front lateral link, rear lower laterallink and rear upper lateral link to the trailing arm.8 Remove the two bolts securing the trailingarm mounting bracket to the vehicle body,then manoeuvre the trailing arm assembly outof position and away from the vehicle (seeillustration).

9 Inspect the trailing arm for signs of damagesuch as cracks, paying particular to the areasaround the mounting bolt holes, and examinethe mounting bush for signs of damage anddeterioration. If either the arm or bush showsigns of wear or damage, the trailing arm andbush assembly must be renewed as a unitsince neither component is availableseparately.

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse of removal, notingthe following:

a) Manoeuvre the trailing arm into positionand tighten its mounting bolts to thespecified torque.

b) Refit all the pivot bolts and tighten themonly loosely.

c) On non-ABS models, tighten thebackplate retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque then refit the hub.

d) On ABS models, tighten the brake calipermounting bracket bolts to the specifiedtorque and refit the wheel sensor.

e) With the vehicle standing on its wheels,rock the suspension to settle all thesuspension components in position thentighten all the disturbed pivot bolts totheir specified torque setting.

f) On completion, check and, if necessary,adjust rear wheel alignment.

17 Steering - inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

18 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 2

Models without airbag (SRS)

Removal1 Set the front wheels in the straight-aheadposition. The steering wheel spokes should behorizontal.2 Carefully prise out the horn button from thecentre of the steering wheel. Disconnect thewires from the button terminals and removethe button (see illustrations).3 Using a socket, unscrew and remove thesteering wheel retaining nut.4 Mark the steering wheel and steeringcolumn shaft in relation to each other then liftthe steering wheel off the column splines. If itis tight, tap it up near the centre, using thepalm of your hand, or twist it from side to sidewhilst pulling upwards to release it from theshaft splines.


16.8 Trailing arm mounting bolts (arrowed)16.3 Remove retaining clip and free brake hose from trailing arm

18.2b . . . and disconnect wiring frombutton terminals

18.2a Remove horn button from steeringwheel . . .

10


Refitting5 Before refitting, check that the steeringcolumn splines are clean.6 Refit the wheel, entering the cut-outs on itslower surface with the direction indicatorcancelling cam tabs and aligning the marksmade on dismantling. This should leave thewheel positioned as described in paragraph 1(see illustrations).7 Tighten the steering wheel nut to thespecified torque wrench setting, thenreconnect the horn wiring to the hornterminals and press the horn into position inthe centre of the wheel.

Models with airbag (SRS)Removal8 Remove the ignition key and wait at leastten minutes to allow the SRS system backupcircuit to fully discharge. Disconnect bothbattery leads, earth lead first, to avoidaccidental detonation of the airbag.9 Remove the airbag unit, see Chapter 12.10 Detach the SRS harness multiplug fromthe slip ring (see illustration).11 Set the steering in the straight-aheadposition and, using a socket, unscrew thesteering wheel retaining nut until its top isflush with the end of the column shaft.

12 Mark the steering wheel and steeringcolumn shaft in relation to each other then liftthe steering wheel off the column splines. If it istight, tap it up near the centre, using the palm ofyour hand, to release it from the shaft splines.13 Remove and discard the steering wheelretaining nut. A new self-locking nut must beobtained for reassembly. 14 Remove the steering wheel from the column.

Refitting15 Refit the steering wheel by reversing theremoval procedure, noting the following:a) Before refitting, check that the steering

column splines are clean.b) Enter the cut-outs on the lower surface of

the wheel with the direction indicatorcancelling cam tabs and align the marksmade on dismantling. This should leavethe wheel in the same position as beforeremoval.

c) Take care to ensure that wiring is nottrapped between mating surfaces.

d) Fit a new wheel retaining nut and tightenit to the specified torque wrench setting

e) Refit the airbag unit, carrying out thesystem check given in Chapter 12.

f) When reconnecting the battery leads, fitthe negative lead last

19 Steering column - removal and refitting 3

Models without airbagRemoval1 Insert the key to ensure the steering columnis unlocked, then release the column tilt leverand position the steering wheel at the lowestpossible position. Remove the steering wheel.2 Disconnect the battery negative terminalthen undo the five right-hand lower faciapanel retaining screws and remove the panelfrom the facia.3 Prise the large snap-ring which secures thetwo halves of the steering column shroudtogether from the top of the shrouds andremove the ignition key. Undo the three screwssecuring the lower shroud to the steeringcolumn and remove both the upper and lowersteering column shrouds (see illustrations).


19.3c . . . and remove lower and uppershrouds

19.3b . . . undo lower shroud retainingscrews (arrowed) . . .

19.3a Prise off snap-ring . . .

18.10 Detach SRS harness multiplug (A) from slip ring and unscrew steering wheelretaining nut (B)

18.6b . . . then refit wheel retaining nut

18.6a Ensure steering wheel cut-outs arecorrectly engaged with indicator

cancelling cam tabs (arrowed) . . .


4 Lift the indicator cancelling cam off thesteering column and disconnect the wiringconnectors from the rear of the steeringcolumn combination switch assembly.5 Undo the two combination switch retainingscrews and slide the assembly off the end ofthe steering column (see illustration).6 Trace the ignition switch wiring back to itswiring connectors and disconnect them fromthe main wiring loom.7 Pull back the driver’s footwell carpet andremove the two studs securing the lowercolumn cover to the floor. Remove the tworetaining clips from the upper end of the coverand withdraw the cover (see illustrations).8 Using a hammer and punch, white paint orsimilar, mark the exact relationship betweenthe steering column shaft and shaft-to-steering gear universal joint, then slacken andremove the pinch-bolt securing the joint to thecolumn shaft.9 Undo the nut and bolt securing the lowersteering column mounting clamp in positionand remove the clamp (see illustration).Slacken and remove the two nuts and boltssecuring the upper mounting assembly to thevehicle then disengage the column from itsmounting studs and universal joint thenremove it from the vehicle.

Refitting10 Before refitting the steering column,closely examine the upper mountingassembly for damage or misalignment.

11 Align the marks made on dismantling andengage the steering column shaft splines withthose of the universal joint.12 Locate the upper mounting bracketassembly over its mounting studs and refit theupper mounting nuts and bolts. Refit the lowermounting clamp and tighten its retaining nutand bolt to the specified torque setting, thentighten the upper mounting nuts and bolts totheir specified torque settings.13 Refit the universal joint to steering columnpinch-bolt and tighten it to the specifiedtorque. Refit the lower cover over the steeringcolumn and secure it in position with theretaining clips and studs.14 Refit the combination switch to thecolumn and tighten its screws securely. Refitthe indicator cancelling cam to the steeringcolumn, ensuring that it is correctly locatedwith the switch assembly, and reconnect thecombination and ignition switch wiringconnectors (see illustration). Ensure that thewiring is correctly routed and secured by anyrelevant clips.15 Offer up the two halves of the steering column shroud and refit the three retaining screws to the lower shroud.Ensure the shroud halves are clipped firmly together, then refit the snap ring to itsgroove.16 Refit the lower facia panel, tightening itsretaining screws securely, then refit thesteering wheel.

Models with airbag (SRS)Removal17 Remove the ignition key and wait at leastten minutes to allow the SRS system backupcircuit to fully discharge. Disconnect bothbattery leads, earth lead first, to avoidaccidental detonation of the airbag.18 Set the steering in the straight-aheadposition then lock the steering column in itslowest position. 19 Remove the airbag unit, see Chapter 12.20 Remove the steering wheel.21 Remove the steering column combinationswitch, see Chapter 12.22 Disconnect the combination switch andignition switch multiplugs, then release thecable tie securing the wiring harness to thesteering column (see illustration).23 Carry out the sequence given inparagraphs 7 to 9 inclusive.

Refitting24 Carry out the sequence given inparagraphs 10 to 13 inclusive.25 Reconnect the combination switch andignition switch multiplugs, then secure thewiring harness to the steering column.26 Refit the steering column combinationswitch, see Chapter 12.27 Refit the steering wheel, then refit theairbag unit, see Chapter 12.


19.7b . . . and withdraw lower steeringcolumn cover

19.7a Remove retaining clips . . .19.5 Combination switch assembly isretained by two screws (arrowed)

19.22 Disconnect switch multiplugs (A)then release cable tie (B)

19.14 Ensure that indicator cancelling camis correctly engaged with combination

switch assembly

19.9 Steering column lower mountingclamp components

10


20 Steering column - overhaul 31 With the steering column removed from thevehicle, fit the ignition key and check that thesteering lock is off. Remove the circlip from theupper end of the column shaft and lift off thewasher and spring washer (see illustration).2 Carefully withdraw the steering shaft fromthe lower end of the steering column. Note theinner circlip fitted to the shaft upper end.3 Inspect the steering shaft for straightnessand for signs of impact and damage to thecollapsible portion. Check for signs of wear,such as scoring, on the shaft bush and checkthe steering shaft universal joint for signs ofdamage or roughness in the joint bearings. Ifany damage or wear is found on the steeringshaft, shaft bush or universal joint, the shaftmust be renewed as an assembly.

4 Inspect the steering column for signs ofdamage and renew if necessary. Closelyexamine the column upper mounting and tiltassembly for signs of damage or distortion,paying particular attention to the uppermounting bending plate and its spring retainer.The bending plate is designed to distort in theevent of an impact hitting the steering wheeland must be renewed, along with its springretainer, if it is not completely straight. Renewother components as necessary.5 If renewal of any of the upper mounting orsteering column tilt assembly components isnecessary, make a note of the correct fittedpositions of all components beforedismantling the assembly. Use this as a guidewhen reassembling all the components toensure they are correctly fitted. Ensure thatthe ends of the bending plate spring retainerare correctly located in the holes in themounting bracket and the retainer is hookedover the claw situated in the centre of thebracket (see illustration).

6 Apply a smear of grease to the steeringshaft and column bearing surfaces and to theshaft bush. If a new steering shaft is beinginstalled, transfer the inner circlip from the oldshaft onto the second groove in the upper endof the new shaft.


20.5 Fitted positions of upper mountingassembly components

20.1 Steering column components


1 Horn button assembly2 Steering wheel retaining nut3 Steering wheel4 Contact ring5 Snap ring6 Upper shroud7 Guide rails8 Bending plate guide9 Bending plate spring

10 Bending plate base11 Upper column holder12 Bending plate13 Column hanger spring14 Tilt adjusting bolt and washers15 Tilt lock plate16 Tilt lock bolt and washers17 Tilt lever and spring18 Steering column19 Bush and retainer20 Circlip21 Washer22 Spring washer23 Bearing24 Circlip25 Steering shaft26 Shaft bush27 Horn pick-up28 Indicator cancelling cam29 Combination switch assembly30 Ignition switch/steering lock31 Retaining clips32 Lower cover33 Lower shroud34 Shroud retaining screw

7 Insert the steering shaft into position in thesteering column and refit the spring washerand flat washer to the upper end of thesteering shaft, securing them in position withthe circlip. Ensure that the circlip is correctlylocated in its groove and check that the shaftrotates freely in the column. Remove theignition key and check that the steering lockfunctions correctly.8 Before installing the column assembly,check the steering shaft-to-steering gearuniversal joint for signs of wear or damageand smoothness of operation. If there is anysign of roughness in the joint bearing, it mustbe renewed before refitting the steeringcolumn.

21 Steering lock/ignition switchremoval and refitting 3

Warning: Before attemptingremoval of the ignition switch,read carefully the precautionslisted in Chapter 12,

appertaining to vehicles equipped withairbags (SRS).

Note: The steering lock/ignition switch issecured by two shear-head bolts. Although newbolts are supplied with replacement steeringlock assemblies, always ensure that the boltsthemselves are available before beginning work.

Removal1 Remove the steering column.2 Securely clamp the column assembly in avice equipped with soft jaws, taking greatcare not to overtighten the vice and distort thesteering column.3 Centre-punch the two steering lock shearbolts then drill off the heads of the bolts. Notethat new shear bolts must be obtained forrefitting.4 Withdraw the steering lock/ignition switch,then unscrew the remains of the shear boltsby using a self-locking wrench or similar onthe exposed ends.

Refitting5 On refitting, carefully align the assembly onthe steering column, lightly tighten the bolts andcheck that the steering lock works smoothly.6 Tighten the shear bolts evenly until theirheads shear off.7 Refit the steering column.

22 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 3

1 Remove the track rod balljoint and unscrewthe locknut from the track rod end (seeillustration).2 Using a pair of pliers, release the outersteering gear gaiter retaining clip and slide itoff the track rod end. Remove the inner gaiterretaining clip by cutting it, then slide the gaiteroff the end of the track rod.3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and thesteering gear housing, using fine abrasivepaper to polish off any corrosion, burrs orsharp edges which might damage the newgaiter’s sealing lips on fitting. Repair kitswhich consist of new gaiters and retainingclips are available from Rover dealers.4 Fit the new rubber gaiter, ensuring that it iscorrectly seated in the grooves in the steeringgear housing and track rod.5 Check that the gaiter is not twisted ordented then secure it in position using newretaining clips.6 Refit the locknut and balljoint onto the trackrod end.

23 Steering gear - removal,overhaul and refitting 5

Removal1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply thehandbrake, jack up the front of the vehicleand support on axle stands. Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 Working inside the vehicle, peel back thedriver’s footwell carpet and remove the studssecuring the lower steering column cover tothe floor. Remove the two retaining clips fromthe upper end of the cover and withdraw thecover.3 Mark the relative positions of the steeringgear pinion and joint to use as a guide whenrefitting, then slacken and remove the twouniversal joint pinch-bolts (see illustration).Slide the universal joint up the steering


23.3 Steering column universal jointpinch-bolts (arrowed)

22.1 Steering gear components

1 Steering rack2 Track rod balljoint3 Steering rack gaiter4 Gaiter outer retaining clip5 Gaiter inner retaining clip6 Balljoint retaining nut7 Split pin

8 Mounting clamp9 Mounting bush

10 Mounting bush11 Steering rack mounting

bolt12 Spacer

13 Washer14 Washers15 Steering rack mounting

clamp bolt16 Power steering fluid pipes

(where fitted)

10


column shaft splines until it is free from thesteering gear pinion.4 Extract the split pins and undo the nutssecuring the steering gear track rod balljointsto the swivel hubs. Release the balljointshanks by using a suitable balljoint separatortool whilst taking care not to damage theballjoint gaiters.5 From underneath the vehicle, slacken andremove the bolt securing the rearengine/gearbox unit mounting connecting linkto the subframe bracket, then remove thethree subframe bracket retaining bolts andremove the bracket, releasing it from theexhaust mounting rubber. Undo the two boltssecuring the connecting link and bracketassembly to the gearbox housing and removethe assembly from the vehicle.6 Undo the three front exhaust pipe tomanifold retaining nuts and, where necessary,the two bolts securing the front pipe mountingbracket to the vehicle. Release theintermediate exhaust section from itsmountings and lower the front of the exhaustsystem.7 In the absence of the special gearchangelinkage balljoint separator (Rover service toolNumber 18G 1592), use a suitable flat-bladedscrewdriver to carefully lever the lowergearchange rod balljoint off the gearchangelinkage bellcrank assembly. Remove the threebolts securing the assembly to the subframe(see illustration).8 Using a suitable stout bar, lever down onthe rear of the engine/gearbox unit and inserta block of wood between the gearbox andsubframe to hold it in position. This isnecessary to gain the required clearance toremove the steering gear.9 On models equipped with power-assistedsteering, remove the bolt securing the feedand return pipe mounting bracket to thesubframe. Mark the pipe union bolts to ensurethey are correctly positioned on reassembly,then unscrew the pipe to steering gear unionnuts (see illustration). Be prepared for fluidspillage and position a suitable containerbeneath the pipes whilst unscrewing theunion nuts. This fluid must be disposed of and new fluid of the specified type used when refilling. Plug the pipe ends and steeringgear orifices to prevent excessive fluid

leakage and entry of dirt into the hydraulicsystem.10 On all models, fully extend the left-handtrack rod then undo the two left-hand steeringgear mounting bolts and remove the mountingbracket. Undo the two right-hand mountingbolts, noting the mounting bushes andspacers, and free the steering gear pinionfrom its cutout.11 Initially move the steering gear to the left,to free the right-hand track rod from thesubframe, then manoeuvre the assembly outfrom the right-hand side of the vehicle.Remove the washers from the steering gearpinion.

Overhaul12 Examine the steering gear assembly forsigns of wear or damage and check that therack moves freely throughout the full length ofits travel with no signs of roughness orexcessive free play between the steering gearpinion and rack. The steering gear is availableonly as a complete assembly with noindividual components, the exception beingthe track rod balljoints and rubber gaiters.Therefore, if worn, the complete assemblymust be renewed.13 Inspect the steering gear mountingbushes for signs of damage or deteriorationand renew as necessary.

Refitting14 Refit the washers to the pinion and, withthe left-hand track rod fully extended,manoeuvre the steering gear into position from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Onceboth the track rods are located in the subframecutouts, refit the mounting clamp and bolts,ensuring that the mounting bushes andspacers are correctly positioned. Tighten themounting bolts to the specified torque.15 Centralise the steering gear rack so thatboth track rods are protruding by an equaldistance.16 On models equipped with power-assistedsteering, wipe clean the feed and return pipeunions then refit them to their respectivepositions on the steering gear and tighten theunion nuts to the specified torque. Refit thebolt securing the pipe retaining bracket to thesubframe and tighten securely.

17 The remainder of the refitting procedure isdirect reversal of removal, noting thefollowing:a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque settings.b) Secure the track rod balljoint retaining

nuts in position with new split pins.c) When refitting the universal joint to the

steering gear pinion splines, ensure thatthe front wheels are pointing in thestraight-ahead direction then, ifnecessary, align the marks made ondismantling and check that the steeringwheel spokes are horizontal.

d) On completion, check and, if necessary,adjust front wheel alignment.

e) On models equipped with power-assistedsteering, bleed the hydraulic system.

24 Power steering pumpdrivebelt - inspection andadjustment

Refer to Chapter 1.

25 Power steering pump -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Slacken, but do not remove, the threepower steering pump pulley retaining bolts,then remove the power steering pumpdrivebelt.2 Position a suitable container beneath thepower steering pump to catch any spilt fluid,then slacken the inlet hose retaining clip anddisconnect the hose from the top of thesteering pump. Undo the bolt securing theoutlet pipe retaining bracket to the pump,then unscrew the outlet pipe union nut anddisconnect the pipe from the pump, notingthe O-ring which is fitted to the union (seeillustrations). Plug the hose ends and pumpunions to prevent excessive fluid loss and thepossible entry of dirt into the system.3 Remove the reservoir from its mounting


25.2a Slacken retaining clamp anddisconnect inlet hose from pump

23.9 Power steering pipes and steeringgear right-hand mounting bolts (arrowed)

23.7 Gearchange linkage bellcrankmounting bolts (arrowed)


bracket and position it clear of the pumpassembly (see illustration).4 Unscrew the pump pulley retaining bolts andremove the pulley. Check that the front face ofthe pulley is marked FRONT and if not, mark itby using a dab of white paint. This mark canthen be used to ensure that the pulley iscorrectly refitted (see illustrations).5 Undo the five bolts (three on the right-handside of the pump, and two on the left)securing the power steering pump to themounting bracket and remove the pump fromthe engine (see illustrations).6 The power steering pump is a sealed unitand cannot be repaired. If faulty the pumpassembly must be renewed.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following (seeillustration):a) Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the

specified torque.b) Fit a new O-ring to the pump outlet pipe

union and tighten the union nut to thespecified torque.

c) Ensure the pulley is correctly installed andlightly tighten its mounting bolts.

d) Refit and adjust the drivebelt, then tightenthe pulley mounting bolts to the specifiedtorque.

e) On completion, bleed the hydraulicsystem.

26 Power steering oil cooler -removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Remove the right-hand headlamp assembly.2 Remove the bonnet lock.3 Position a suitable container beneath thepower steering oil cooler hose connections tocatch any spilt fluid, then slacken the hoseretaining clips and disconnect both hoses(see illustration). Plug the hose and oil coolerends to prevent excessive fluid loss andpossible entry of dirt into the system.


25.3 Removing power steering fluidreservoir from retaining clamp

25.2c . . . and unscrew outlet pipe unionnut from pump

25.2b Remove outlet pipe bracketretaining bolt . . .

26.3 Slacken clamps and disconnecthoses from power steering oil cooler

25.7 Always renew outlet pipe O-ring(arrowed)

25.5b . . . and remove pump

25.5a Unscrew power steering pumpmounting bolts (three arrowed) . . .

25.4b . . . and withdraw pulley. NoteFRONT mark on pulley face (arrowed)

25.4a Remove pulley retaining bolts(arrowed) . . .

10


4 Undo the three oil cooler mounting bracketretaining bolts, then manoeuvre the oil coolerassembly out from between the front bumperand body (see illustrations).

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. On completion, bleed the system.

27 Power steering system -bleeding 2

Warning: Avoid holding thesteering at full lock for longperiods of time. Failure to do socould lead to overheating, and

possible damage, of the power steeringpump and steering gear.1 Remove the cap from the power steeringfluid reservoir and fill the reservoir with thespecified fluid.2 Disconnect the distributor wiring to preventthe engine from starting, then turn the engineover for approximately 5 seconds to prime thepower steering pump.3 Reconnect the distributor wiring, thencheck the reservoir fluid level is between theMAX and MIN level markings on the side ofthe reservoir, topping up if necessary.4 Start the engine and allow it to idle forapproximately 30 seconds with the front wheels

pointing in the straight-ahead position. After 30seconds, turn the steering onto full lock in onedirection, hold it there for a few seconds, thenturn it onto full lock in the opposite direction andhold it there for a few seconds. Return the frontwheels to the straight-ahead position. Repeatthis procedure until air bubbles cease to appearin the fluid reservoir.5 If, when turning the steering, an abnormalnoise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicatesthat there is still air in the system. Check thisby turning the wheels to the straight-aheadposition and switching off the engine. If thefluid level in the reservoir rises, then air ispresent in the system and further bleeding isnecessary.6 Once all traces of air have been removedfrom the power steering hydraulic system,turn the engine off and allow the system tocool. Once cool, check that fluid level is up tothe MAX mark on the power steering fluidreservoir. Top up if necessary.

28 Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting 5

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.

2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use astraight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to markits relationship to the track rod.3 Holding the balljoint, unscrew its locknut byone quarter of a turn.4 Extract the split pin and undo the nutsecuring the steering gear track rod balljointto the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shankby using a suitable balljoint separator toolwhilst taking care not to damage the balljointgaiter (see illustration).5 Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod,counting the exact number of turns necessaryto do so. If the locknut is to be removed, markits position on the track rod and count thenumber of turns required to remove it so thatit can be returned exactly to its originalposition on reassembly.6 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.Renew the balljoint if its movement is sloppyor too stiff, if it is excessively worn, or if it isdamaged in any way. Carefully check the studtaper and threads. No grease leakage shouldbe visible.

Refitting7 If necessary, screw the locknut onto thetrack rod by the number of turns noted onremoval. This should align the locknut with themark made on dismantling.8 Screw the balljoint onto the track rod by thenumber of turns noted on removal. Thisshould bring the balljoint to within a quarter ofa turn from the locknut, with the alignmentmarks that were made (if applicable) onremoval lined up.9 Refit the balljoint shank to the swivel huband tighten its retaining nut to the specifiedtorque setting. Use a new split pin to secure the retaining nut in position (seeillustration).10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel nuts to the specified torquesetting.11 Check and, if necessary, adjust frontwheel alignment.


28.9 Secure balljoint retaining nut in position with new split pin28.4 Using a universal balljoint separator to free track rodballjoint from swivel hub

26.4b Oil cooler lower mounting bolt canbe accessed via bumper grille

26.4a Power steering oil cooler uppermounting bolts (arrowed)


29 Wheel alignment andsteering angles 5

1 A vehicle’s steering and suspensiongeometry is defined in five basic settings. Allangles are expressed in degrees and thesteering axis is defined as an imaginary linedrawn through the centres of the frontsuspension upper and lower balljoints,extended where necessary to contact theground (see illustration).

Camber2 Camber is the angle between eachroadwheel and a vertical line drawn throughits centre and tyre contact patch when viewedfrom the front or rear of the vehicle. Positive camber is when the roadwheels aretilted outwards from the vertical at the top.Negative camber is when they are tiltedinwards.3 Camber is not adjustable and given forreference only. While it can be checked usinga camber checking gauge, if the figureobtained is significantly different from thatspecified, then the vehicle must be taken forcareful checking by a professional, as the faultcan only be caused by wear or damage to thebody or suspension components.

Castor 4 Castor is the angle between the steeringaxis and a vertical line drawn through eachroadwheel’s centre and tyre contact patchwhen viewed from the side of the vehicle.Positive castor is when the steering axis istilted so that it contacts the ground ahead ofthe vertical. Negative castor is when itcontacts the ground behind the vertical.5 Castor is not adjustable and is given forreference only. While it can be checked usinga castor checking gauge, if the figure obtainedis significantly different from that specified,then the vehicle must be taken for carefulchecking by a professional, as the fault canonly be caused by wear or damage to thebody or suspension components.

Steering axis inclination/SAI 6 Also known as kingpin inclination/KPI, thisis the angle between the steering axis and avertical line drawn through each roadwheel’scentre and tyre contact patch when viewedfrom the front or rear of the vehicle.7 SAI/KPI is not adjustable and is given forreference only.

Toe8 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,between lines drawn through the roadwheelcentres and the vehicle’s centre-line. Toe-in iswhen the roadwheels point inwards, towardseach other at the front. Toe-out is when theysplay outwards from each other at the front.9 At the front, toe setting is adjusted byscrewing the track rods in or out of theirballjoints to alter the effective length of thetrack rod assemblies.10 At the rear, toe setting is adjusted byslackening the front lateral link-to-body pivotbolt and repositioning the bolt in its mountingslot, thereby altering the position of the trailingarm assembly.

Toe-out on turns 11 Also known as turning angles orAckermann angles, this is the difference,viewed from above, between the angles ofrotation of the inside and outside frontroadwheels when they have been turnedthrough a given angle.12 Toe-out on turns is set in production andis not adjustable as such, but can be upset byaltering the length of the track rods unequally.It is essential, therefore, to ensure that thetrack rod lengths are exactly the same andthat they are turned by the same amountwhenever the toe setting is altered.

Checking and adjustment13 Due to the special measuring equipmentnecessary to check wheel alignment and theskill required to use it properly, checking andadjustment of the aformentioned settings isbest left to a Rover dealer or similar expert.Note that most tyre-fitting shops now possesssophisticated checking equipment.


10


29.1 Wheel alignment and steering angles


12

Chapter 12Body electrical systems

Bulbs (exterior lamps) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Bulbs (interior lamps) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Cigar lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Dim-dip headlamp system - operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Exterior lamp units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Fuses, fusible links and relays - location and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 3General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Headlamp beams - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Multi-function unit - operation, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) - component removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) - operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Windscreen/headlamp washer system - inspection and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Windscreen/tailgate wiper blades and arms - inspection and

renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 22

12•1

Contents

SpecificationsSystemType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 volt, negative earth

Relays and control unitsComponent LocationStarter relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine compartment fusebox, centre relay of right-hand threeIntake manifold heater relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine compartment fusebox, rear relay of right-hand threeMain relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine compartment fusebox, front relay of right-hand threeFuel pump relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine compartment fusebox, front relay of left-hand twoCooling fan relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine compartment fusebox, rear relay of left-hand twoDirection indicator relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand lower facia panel (square relay)Heated rear window relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand lower facia panel (circular relay)Cigar lighter relay, fog lamp relay, horn relay and main beam relay . . . Part of relay module, mounted on transmission tunnel behind lower

central facia panelElectric window relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind lower central facia panelElectric window control unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand front door inner trim panelCentral locking control unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind left-hand front door inner trim panelAir conditioning relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mounted on left-hand side of engine compartment bulkheadDim-dip relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand lower facia panelWindscreen wiper relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand lower facia panelSunroof relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand lower facia panelLambda sensor relay - catalytic converter models only . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine compartment fusebox, next to fusible linksTailgate wiper relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behind right-hand luggage compartment trim







54321

FusesFuse Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected1 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clock, instruments, direction indicators and dim-dip unit2 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starter signal3 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking4 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter5 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip resistor6 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunroof7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand sidelamps, tail lamp and number plate lamps8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand sidelamps, tail lamp and interior lamps9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fog lamps10 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand headlamp dipped beam11 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand headlamp dipped beam12 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio/cassette memory, clock and interior lamps13 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front windscreen washers and wipers14 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine management system15 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cooling fan, tailgate washer and wiper16 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reversing lamps, stop lamps and electric windows17 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter, Multi-function unit and radio/cassette player18 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric door mirrors19 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlamp dim-dip20 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump21 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand headlamp main beam22 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand headlamp main beam23 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window and heated door mirrors24 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower motor25 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS system26 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand rear electric window27 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand rear electric window28 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand front electric window29 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand front electric windowAdditional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Airbag (SRS). Do not removeNote: Fuse locations are typical and may vary slightly according to model type. Refer to vehicle handbook.

Fusible linksLink Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected1 40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS pump2 40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lighting and cigar lighter3 40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch4 40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric window relay, sunroof, central locking and heated rear

window5 40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch6 60 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main relay, fuel pump relay and lambda sensor relay

Bulbs Fitting WattageHeadlamps:

Dip/main beam bulb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H4 60/55Individual main beam bulb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H1 55

Front sidelamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capless 5Direction indicator lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 21Direction indicator side repeater lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capless 5Interior lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Festoon 5Instrument panel warning and illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Integral with holder* 14V 1.4 or 3WGlovebox lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Festoon 5Luggage compartment lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 10Reversing lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 21Tail lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capless 5Stop lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 21Rear foglamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 21Number plate lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capless 5* With exception of rear illumination panel bulb which is capless

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftWiper arm spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10Wiper motor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6Windscreen wiper linkage spindle assembly bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6Airbag-to-steering wheel (Torx) screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Airbag control unit-to-steering wheel (Torx) screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2

12•2 Body electrical systems



General informationThe electrical system is of the 12-volt

negative earth type and comprises a 12-voltbattery, an alternator with integral voltageregulator, a starter motor and relatedelectrical accessories, components andwiring. The battery is of the maintenance-free(sealed for life) type and is charged by thealternator, which is belt-driven from acrankshaft-mounted pulley.

While some repair procedures are given,the usual course of action is to renew adefective component. The owner whoseinterest extends beyond mere componentrenewal should obtain a copy of theAutomobile Electrical & Electronic SystemsManual, available from the publishers of thisManual.

PrecautionsIt is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodesand transistors) and to avoid the risk ofpersonal injury. In addition to the precautionsgiven in “Safety first!” at the beginning of thisManual, observe the following when workingon the system:a) Always remove rings, watches, etc.

before working on the electrical system.Even with the battery disconnected,capacitive discharge could occur if acomponent’s live terminal is earthedthrough a metal object. This could causea shock or nasty burn.

b) Do not reverse the battery connections.Components such as the alternator, fuelinjection/ignition system ECU, or anyother having semi-conductor circuitrycould be irreparably damaged.

c) If the engine is being started using jumpleads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive-to-positive andnegative-to-negative. This also applieswhen connecting a battery charger.

d) Never disconnect the battery terminals,the alternator, any electrical wiring or anytest instruments when the engine isrunning.

e) Do not allow the engine to turn thealternator when the alternator is notconnected.

f) Never test for alternator output by‘flashing’ the output lead to earth.

g) Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand-cranked generatorfor circuit or continuity testing.

h) Always ensure that the battery negativelead is disconnected when working on theelectrical system.

i) Before using electric-arc weldingequipment on the vehicle, disconnect the

battery, alternator and components suchas the fuel injection/ignition system ECUto protect them.

A number of additional precautions must beobserved when working on vehicles equippedwith airbags (SRS), they are as follows:a) When cleaning the interior of the vehicle,

do not allow the airbag unit to becomeflooded with detergents or water and donot clean with petrol or furniture creamand polishes. Clean the unit sparingly witha damp cloth and upholstery cleaner.

b) Before working on any part of the system,remove the ignition key and wait at leastten minutes to allow the system backupcircuit to fully discharge. Disconnect bothbattery leads, earth lead first, to avoidaccidental detonation of the airbag.

c) Make no attempt to splice into any of theelectric cables in the SRS wiring harnessas this may affect the operation of theSRS. Never fit electronic equipment suchas mobile telephones, radios, etc. into theharness and ensure that the harness isrouted so that it cannot be trapped.

d) Avoid hammering or causing any harshvibration at the front of the vehicle,particularly in the engine bay, as this maytrigger the crash sensors and activate theSRS.

e) Do not use ohmmeters or any otherdevice capable of supplying current onany of the SRS components, as this maycause accidental detonation. Use only adigital circuit tester.

f) Always use new replacement parts. Neverfit parts that are from another vehicle orshow signs of damage through beingdropped or improperly handled

g) Airbags are classed as pyrotechnicaldevices and must be stored and handledaccording to the relevant laws in thecountry concerned. In general, do notleave these components disconnectedfrom their electrical cabling any longerthan is absolutely necessary as in thisstate they are unstable and the risk ofaccidental detonation is introduced. Resta disconnected airbag unit with the padsurface facing upwards and never restanything on the pad. Store it on a secureflat surface, away from flammablematerials, high heat sources, oils, grease,detergents or water, and never leave itunattended.

h) The SRS indicator light should extinguish3 seconds after the ignition switch isturned to position “II”. If this is not thecase, check the electrical systemconnections as soon as possible.

i) The airbag control unit and slip ring arenon-serviceable components and noattempt should be made to carry outrepairs or modifications to them.

j) Only use the recommended special boltswhen fitting the airbag assembly. Do notuse any other type of bolt.

k) Never invert the airbag unit.

l) Renew the airbag unit and slip ring everyten years, regardless of condition.

m) Return an unwanted airbag unit to yourRover dealer for safe disposal. Do notendanger others by careless disposal of aunit.

2 Electrical fault finding -general information

1 A typical electrical circuit consists of anelectrical component, any switches, relays,motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakersrelated to that component and the wiring andconnectors that link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help youpinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiringdiagrams are included at the end of thisChapter.2 Before tackling any troublesome electricalcircuit, first study the appropriate wiringdiagrams to get a complete understanding ofwhat components are included in thatindividual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance,can be narrowed down by noting if othercomponents related to the circuit areoperating properly. If several components orcircuits fail at one time, then the problem isprobably in a fuse or earth connection,because several circuits are often routedthrough the same fuse and earth connections.3 Electrical problems usually stem fromsimple causes, such as loose or corrodedconnections, a blown fuse, a melted fusiblelink or a faulty relay. Inspect the condition ofall fuses, wires and connections in a problemcircuit before testing the components. Usethe diagrams to note which terminalconnections will need to be checked in orderto pinpoint the trouble spot.4 The basic tools needed for electrical faultfinding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can alsobe used), a continuity tester, a battery and setof test leads, and a jumper wire, preferablywith a circuit breaker incorporated, which canbe used to bypass electrical components.Before attempting to locate a problem withtest instruments, use the wiring diagram todecide where to make the connections.

Voltage checks5 Voltage checks should be performed if acircuit is not functioning properly. Connectone lead of a circuit tester to either thenegative battery terminal or a known goodearth. Connect the other lead to a connectorin the circuit being tested, preferably nearestto the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the testerlights then voltage is present, which meansthat the part of the circuit between theconnector and the battery is problem free.Continue checking the rest of the circuit in thesame fashion. When you reach a point atwhich no voltage is present, the problem liesbetween that point and the last test point with

Body electrical systems 12•3

12


voltage. Most problems can be traced to aloose connection. Bear in mind that somecircuits are only live when the ignition switchis switched to a particular position.

Finding a short circuit6 One method of finding a short circuit is toremove the fuse and connect a test light orvoltmeter to the fuse terminals with all therelevant electrical components switched off.There should be no voltage present in thecircuit. Move the wiring from side to side whilewatching the test light. If the bulb lights up,there is a short to earth somewhere in thatarea, probably where the insulation hasrubbed through. The same test can beperformed on each component in the circuit,even a switch.

Earth check7 Perform an earth test to check whether acomponent is properly earthed. Disconnectthe battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light, known as a continuitytester, to a known good earth point. Connectthe other lead to the wire or earth connectionbeing tested. If the bulb lights up, the earth isgood. If not, the earth is faulty.8 If an earth connection is thought to befaulty, dismantle the connection and cleanback to bare metal both the bodyshell and thewire terminal or the component’s earthconnection mating surface. Be careful toremove all traces of dirt and corrosion, thenuse a knife to trim away any paint, so that aclean metal-to-metal joint is made. Onreassembly, tighten the joint fastenerssecurely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,use serrated washers between the terminaland the bodyshell to ensure a clean andsecure connection. When the connection isremade, prevent the onset of corrosion in thefuture by applying a coat of petroleum jelly orsilicone-based grease or by spraying on a

proprietary ignition sealer or a waterdispersant lubricant at regular intervals.9 The vehicle’s wiring harness has sevenmultiple-earth connections, each one beingidentified in the wiring diagrams by areference number (E1 to E7). Each of theseearth connections serves several circuits andare located are as follows (see illustration):

E1 Behind left-hand headlamp.E2 Behind right-hand headlamp.E3 Base of right-hand front door pillar.E4 Beneath right-hand rear lamp cluster.E5 Beneath left-hand rear lamp cluster.E6 Centre of tailgate/boot lid.E7 Bonnet lock platform.

Continuity check10 A continuity check is necessary todetermine if there are any breaks in a circuit.With the circuit off (ie: no power in the circuit),a self-powered continuity tester can be usedto check the circuit. Connect the test leads toboth ends of the circuit, or to the positive endand a good earth. If the test light comes on,the circuit is passing current properly. If thelight does not come on, there is a breaksomewhere in the circuit. The same

procedure can be used to test a switch, byconnecting the continuity tester to the switchterminals. With the switch turned on, the testlight should come on.

Finding an open circuit11 When checking for possible open circuits,it is often difficult to locate them by sightbecause oxidation or terminal misalignmentare hidden by the connectors. Merely movinga connector on a sensor or in the wiringharness may correct the open circuitcondition. Remember this when an opencircuit is indicated when fault finding in a circuit. Intermittent problems may also becaused by oxidized or loose connections.

General12 Electrical fault finding is simple if you keepin mind that all electrical circuits are basicallyelectricity flowing from the battery, throughthe wires, switches, relays, fuses and fusiblelinks to each electrical component (light bulb,motor, etc.) and to earth, from which it ispassed back to the battery. Any electricalproblem is an interruption in the flow ofelectricity from the battery.

3 Fuses, fusible links andrelays - location and renewal 1

Fuses1 Most of the fuses are located behind thepanel in the right-hand lower facia panel, witha few odd fuses being located in the fuseboxon the left-hand side of the enginecompartment.2 Access to the fuses is gained by removingthe fusebox lid/cover. Symbols on the reverseof the lid/cover indicate the circuits protectedby the fuses and five spare fuses are supplied,together with plastic tweezers to remove andfit them (see illustration). Further details onfuse ratings and circuits protected are given inthe Specifications.3 On vehicles equipped with airbags, the fuseprotecting the airbag circuit is located on theside of the main fuse box (see illustration).


3.3 Airbag circuit fuse (arrowed) is locatedon side of main fusebox

3.2 Remove fuses with plastic tweezerssupplied (arrowed)

2.9 Electrical system earth points

1 Behind left-hand headlamp - E12 Behind right-hand headlamp - E23 Base of right-hand front door pillar - E34 Beneath right-hand rear lamp cluster - E4

5 Beneath left-hand rear lamp cluster - E56 Centre of tailgate/boot lid - E67 Bonnet lock platform - E7


Under no circumstances should this fuse beremoved as this may cause inflation of theairbag. Refer to your Rover dealer if you thinkfuse renewal is necessary.4 To remove a fuse, first switch off the circuitconcerned (or the ignition), then fit thetweezers and pull the fuse out of its terminals.Slide the fuse sideways from the tweezers.The wire within the fuse is clearly visible. If thefuse is blown, the wire will be broken ormelted.5 Always renew a fuse with one of anidentical rating. Never use a fuse with adifferent rating from the original or substituteanything else. The fuse rating is stamped ontop of the fuse. Fuses are also colour-codedfor easy recognition.6 If a new fuse blows immediately, find thecause before renewing it again. A short toearth as a result of faulty insulation is the mostlikely cause. Where a fuse protects more thanone circuit, try to isolate the defect byswitching on each circuit in turn (if possible)until the fuse blows again.7 If any of the spare fuses are used, alwaysreplace them so that a spare of each rating isavailable.

Fusible links8 The fusible links are located in the rear ofthe fusebox, situated on the left-hand side ofthe engine compartment. Unclip the lid to gainaccess to them.9 Details of link ratings and circuits protectedare given in the Specifications. All links arenumbered on the rear of the fusebox lid.10 To remove a fusible link, first ensure thatthe circuit concerned is switched off thenprise off the plastic cover. Slacken the twolink retaining screws then lift the fusible linkout of the fusebox (see illustrations). Thewire within the fusible link is clearly visible. Ifthe fuse is blown, it will be broken or melted.A blown fusible link indicates a serious wiringor system fault which must be diagnosedbefore the link is renewed.11 Always renew a fusible link with one of anidentical rating. Never use a link with adifferent rating from the original or substituteanything else. On refitting, tighten the link

retaining screws securely and refit the linkcover.

Relays12 The Specifications Section gives fullinformation on the location and function of thevarious relays fitted. Refer to the relevantwiring diagram for details of wiringconnections.13 If a circuit or system controlled by a relaydevelops a fault and the relay is suspect,operate the system. If the relay is functioning,it should be possible to hear it click as it isenergized. If this is the case, the fault lies withthe components or wiring of the system. If therelay is not being energized, then either |the relay is not receiving a main supply or aswitching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty.Testing is by the substitution of a known goodunit but be careful as some relays are identicalin appearance, but perform differentfunctions.14 To renew a relay, ensure that the ignitionswitch is off, then simply pull direct from thesocket and press in the new relay.15 Certain relays are contained in the relaymodule which is situated behind the lowercentral facia panel. To remove this, firstremove the lower central panel from the facia.Disconnect its two wiring block connectorsthen release its retaining clip and slide to theleft to withdraw it from the mounting bracket(see illustrations). The complete modulemust be renewed, even if only one of therelays is faulty.

4 Switches - removal and refitting 3

Note: Disconnect the battery negative leadbefore removing any, switch and after refittingthe switch, reconnect the lead.

Ignition switch1 Refer to Chapter 10 for details of switchremoval and refitting. A Rover dealer will beable to tell you whether the switch can beobtained separately from the steering lock.

Steering column combinationswitch

Models without airbag (SRS)2 Remove the steering wheel and steeringcolumn shrouds, then disconnect the switchwiring, as described in Chapter 10.3 Each individual switch can be removed byunscrewing its two retaining screws andsliding the switch out of the housing (seeillustrations).4 To remove the complete switch assembly,slacken and remove the two retaining screwsand slide the assembly off the steeringcolumn.


3.15a Use a screwdriver to release relaymodule retaining clip . . .

3.10b . . . then undo retaining screws andremove fusible link

3.10a Unclip plastic cover . . .

4.3a Individual combination switches canbe removed by slackening retaining

screws . . .

3.15b . . . then slide module out of positionand disconnect its wiring connectors

12


5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

Models with airbag (SRS)6 Remove the ignition key and wait at leastten minutes to allow the SRS system backupcircuit to fully discharge. Disconnect bothbattery leads, earth lead first, to avoidaccidental detonation of the airbag.7 Set the steering in the dead-ahead positionthen lock the steering column in its lowestposition.

8 Remove the airbag unit.9 Remove the steering wheel, see Chap-ter 10.10 Remove the five fusebox cover securingscrews and release the cover from the facia(see illustration).11 Remove the three screws securing thelower half of the steering column shroud,release the two clips securing the front of theshroud, then separate the two halves of theshroud, manoeuvring each one clear of thecolumn (see illustration).12 Disconnect the four multiplugs from thecombination switch (see illustration). 13 Remove the four screws securing the slipring to the combination switch, remove thering from the column and place it to one sidewhilst taking care not to allow it to hang fromits wiring.14 Remove the indicator cancelling cam (seeillustration).15 Each individual switch can be removed byunscrewing its two retaining screws andsliding the switch out of the housing.16 To remove the complete combinationswitch, slacken and remove the two retainingscrews and slide the switch off the steeringcolumn.17 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.18 Upon completion of refitting the airbagunit, reconnect both battery leads, negativelead last, and turn the ignition switch to the

“II” position. Check the condition of thesystem by observing the SRS warning lightlocated in the steering wheel centre pad.The light should stay illuminated for 3 seconds whilst the system performs a self-diagnosis test. If the test is satisfactory, thelight will extinguish. If the test isunsatisfactory, the light will remain on or fail to illuminate at all, denoting that thesystem must be serviced as soon aspossible.

Instrument panel and faciaswitches19 Check that the switch is in the offposition, then taking great care not to scratchor damage the switch or its surround, prise itout using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver.Withdraw the switch until the connector plugappears then disconnect the wiring connectorand remove the switch (see illustrations). Tiea piece of string to the wiring connector to prevent it from falling behind the faciapanel.20 On refitting, connect the wiring connectorto the switch and press the switch intoposition until the retaining clips click intoplace.

Electrically-operated windowswitches21 Remove the door inner trim panel.


4.19b . . . and disconnect wiringconnectors

4.19a Carefully prise facia switches out ofposition . . .

4.14 Steering column switch assembly

A Indicator cancelling camB Column switch screwsC Column switch assemblyD Combination switch screws

4.12 Disconnect four multiplugs (arrowed)from combination switch

4.11 Remove screws (A), release clips (B)and separate two halves of

shroud (C and D)

4.10 Remove fusebox cover securingscrews (arrowed)

4.3b . . . and sliding switch out of mainassembly


22 Undo the retaining screws and removethe switch from the trim panel (seeillustration).23 On refitting tighten the switch screwssecurely.

Courtesy lamp switches24 With the door open, undo the two screwssecuring the switch to the body. Pull out theswitch and tie a piece of string to the wiring toprevent it dropping into the body.25 Disconnect the switch and remove it fromthe vehicle.26 Refitting is a reverse of removal.

Handbrake warning lamp switch27 From inside the vehicle, carefully prise outthe cover from the top of the centre consolerear section to gain access to the tworetaining screws. Undo the two screws andremove the rear centre console section.28 Disconnect the wiring connector from theswitch, then slacken and remove the retainingscrew and remove the switch from thehandbrake lever quadrant (see illustration).29 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Horn push switch

Models without airbag (SRS)30 Using the flat of a screwdriver, carefullyprise the horn button out of the centre of thesteering wheel (see illustration).31 Disconnect the wire from each buttonterminal and remove the button (seeillustration).32 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. Test the horn on completion.

Models with airbag (SRS)33 Remove the airbag unit, noting allprecautions.34 Detach the earth wire from the steeringwheel (see illustration).35 Disconnect the Lucar connector from thesteering wheel connection.36 Remove each horn button by carefullyusing the flat blade of a small screwdriver tolever it from position.

37 Detach the two electrical connectors fromthe button and remove it. 38 Refitting is the reversal of removal, notingthe following:a) Take care to ensure that wiring is not

trapped between mating surfaces.b) Refit the airbag unit, carrying out the

system check.c) Test the horn after refitting each button.

5 Bulbs (exterior lamps) -renewal 1

General1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note thefollowing:a) Disconnect the battery negative lead

before starting work.b) Remember that if the lamp has just been

in use, the bulb may be extremely hot.c) Always check the bulb contacts and

holder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact between the bulb and itslive contacts and earth. Clean off anycorrosion or dirt before fitting a new bulb.

d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fitted,ensure that the live contacts bear firmlyagainst the bulb contact.

e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the

correct rating and that it is completelyclean before fitting. This appliesparticularly to headlamp bulbs.

Headlamp2 Working in the engine compartment, twistoff the relevant circular plastic cover andremove it from the rear of the headlamp unit(see illustration).3 Unplug the wiring connector, then presstogether the ears of the bulb retaining clip and


4.30 Prise horn button from steering wheel . . .

4.28 Handbrake warning lamp switchretaining screw (A) and wiring

connector (B)

4.22 Driver’s side window switch retainingscrews (arrowed)

5.2 Remove large circular cover to accessdip/main beam bulb and sidelamp bulbsand smaller cover (arrowed) to access

individual main beam bulb

4.34 Disconnect earth wire (A) and Lucarconnector (B), then lever button from

position and detach electrical connectors (C)

4.31 . . . and disconnect wire from eachbutton terminal

12


release it from the rear of the lamp (seeillustration).4 Withdraw the bulb.5 When handling a new bulb, use a tissue orclean cloth to avoid touching the glass withthe fingers. Moisture and grease from the skincan cause blackening and rapid failure of thistype of bulb.

6 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the new bulbs locatingtabs are correctly located in the lamp cutouts.

Front sidelamp7 Working in the engine compartment, twist

off the large circular plastic cover and removeit from the rear of the headlamp unit (seeillustration 5.2).8 Pull the bulbholder from the headlampreflector.9 Pull the capless (push fit) bulb out of itssocket.10 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

Front direction indicator11 Working in the engine compartment, undothe indicator lamp upper retaining screw andwithdraw the lamp (see illustration).12 Twist the bulbholder in an anti-clockwisedirection to free it from the lamp and remove itfrom the lamp unit (see illustration).13 The bulb is a bayonet fit in the holder andcan be removed by pressing it and twisting inan anti-clockwise direction (see illustration).

14 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Front direction indicator siderepeater15 Push the lamp unit towards the right tofree its retaining clips then withdraw it fromthe wing (see illustration).16 Pull the bulbholder out of the lamp unitthen pull the capless (push fit) bulb out of itsholder (see illustration).17 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Rear lamp cluster18 From inside the luggage compartment,remove the relevant rear cover from the lamp.19 Depress the catches and withdraw thebulb panel from the lens unit (see illustration).20 The relevant bulb can then be removedfrom the panel. The tail lamp bulb is of thecapless (push fit) type, whereas all other bulbshave a bayonet fitting (see illustrations).21 Refitting is the reverse of the removalsequence. Note that the rubber seal must berenewed if damaged.

Number plate lamps22 Undo the two mounting screws andremove the number plate lamp lens and seal.23 Withdraw the lamp and remove the clip


5.20a Rear lamp cluster

A Direction indicator D Tail lampB Reversing lamp E Stop lampC Foglamp

5.19 Depress catches and withdraw rearlamp bulb panel

5.16 . . . then withdraw lamp and pull outbulbholder

5.15 Push indicator side repeater lamp toright . . .

5.13 Indicator bulbs are of bayonet type

5.12 . . . then withdraw indicator lamp andtwist bulbholder free

5.11 Remove retaining screw . . .5.3 Headlamp dip/main beam bulb wiring

connector (A), retaining clip (B) andsidelamp bulbholder (C)


If the glass of a headlampbulb is accidentallytouched, wipe it clean usingmethylated spirit.

from the top of the lamp body to gain accessto the bulb.24 The bulb is of the capless (push fit) typeand can be pulled out of the lamp unit.25 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

6 Bulbs (interior lamps) -renewal 2

General1 Refer to Section 5.

Courtesy lamps2 Carefully prise the lens off the lamp unitthen remove the festoon bulb from its endcontacts.3 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of theremoval procedure. Check the tension of thespring contacts and if necessary, bend themso that they firmly contact the bulb end caps.

Glovebox lamp4 Open up the glovebox and undo the twoswitch/lamp assembly retaining screws.Disconnect the wiring connector and removethe switch/lamp unit from the glovebox.5 Depress the lens retaining lug and removethe lens assembly from the unit.6 Release the festoon bulb from its contactsand remove it from the lens.7 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of theremoval procedure. Check the tension of thespring contacts and if necessary, bend themso that they firmly contact the bulb end caps.

Luggage compartment lamp8 Carefully prise the lamp out of the trimpanel using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver.9 The bulb is a bayonet fit and can beremoved by pressing it in and twisting anti-clockwise (see illustration).10 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Instrument panel illuminationand warning lamps11 Remove the instrument panel.12 Twist the relevant bulbholder (seeillustration) anti-clockwise and withdraw itfrom the rear of the panel.


6.9 Luggage compartment lamp bulb is ofbayonet type

5.20c . . . whereas all other bulbs havebayonet type fitting

5.20b Rear cluster tail lamp bulb is ofcapless type . . .

6.12 Instrument panel assembly

1 Panel rear illuminationbulbs

2 ABS warning lamp bulb(where fitted)

3 Boot open warning lampbulb

4 Hazard warning lamp bulb5 Brake fail/handbrake

warning lamp bulb6 Direction indicator

warning lamp bulb7 Main beam warning lamp

bulb

8 Oil pressure warning lampbulb

9 Ignition/charging lampwarning bulb

10 Choke warning lamp bulb- carburettor models

11 Caravan/trailer indicatorwarning lamp bulb

12 Printed circuit13 Coolant temperature

gauge14 Tachometer15 Speedometer

16 Fuel gauge17 Left-hand support bracket18 Right-hand support

bracket19 Illumination panel cover20 Illumination panel printed

circuit21 Panel front illumination

bulb22 Tripmeter reset knob23 Instrument panel cover24 Instrument panel case 12


13 All bulbs, with the exception of the mainpanel illumination bulb, are integral with theirholders. The main panel illumination bulb is ofthe capless type and is a push fit in its holder(see illustrations). Be very careful to ensurethat the new bulbs are of the same rating asthose removed as this is especially importantin the case of the ignition/battery chargingwarning lamp.14 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

Facia illumination bulbs15 To renew the various facia illuminationbulbs, it will first be necessary to remove therelevant facia panel to gain access to thebulb.

Switch illumination bulbs16 All of the facia panel switches are fitted

with illuminating bulbs. Some are also fittedwith a bulb to show when the circuitconcerned is operating. These bulbs are anintegral part of the switch assembly andcannot be obtained separately. Bulbreplacement will therefore require renewal ofthe complete switch assembly.

7 Exterior lamp units - removal and refitting 4

Note: Disconnect the battery negative leadbefore removing any lamp unit, and reconnectthe lead after refitting the lamp.

Headlamp1 Open up the bonnet, then undo the fourscrews securing the radiator grille to the

headlamps and remove the grille from thevehicle.2 Remove the screw securing the indicatorlamp assembly to the wing and position thelamp unit clear of the headlamp assembly.3 Undo the two headlamp retaining screwssituated behind the indicator lamp and undothe two upper headlamp retaining bolts (seeillustrations).4 Disconnect the headlamp wiring connector(see illustration).5 Gently pull the headlamp upwards torelease it from its lower retainer, then removethe headlamp and lower finisher trim panelassembly from the vehicle.6 If necessary, the lower finisher can beremoved from the headlamp by removing theretaining screw and releasing the tworetaining clips.7 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. On completion adjust theheadlamp beam.

Front direction indicator8 Open up the bonnet and remove theindicator lamp upper retaining screw.9 Withdraw the lamp unit from the wing, thentwist the bulbholder in an anti-clockwisedirection to free it from the lamp and removethe lamp unit from the vehicle.10 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

Front direction indicator siderepeater11 Push the lamp unit towards the right tofree its retaining clips then withdraw it fromthe wing.12 Pull the bulbholder out and remove thelamp from the vehicle.13 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure.

Rear lamp cluster14 Working from within the luggagecompartment, remove the relevant rear lampcover and disconnect the lamp wiringconnector (see illustration).15 Undo the four nuts securing the lamp unitto the body and remove the unit from thevehicle. Note the rubber seal which is fittedbetween the lamp unit and body (seeillustration).


7.15 Withdraw rear lamp unit notingrubber seal

7.14 Disconnect wiring connector (A) andremove rear lamp unit retaining nuts (B)

7.4 Disconnecting headlamp wiringconnector

7.3b . . . and two headlamp retaining bolts7.3a Remove headlamp retaining screws(remaining one arrowed) . . .

6.13b . . . bulb being of capless type6.13a Instrument panel illuminationbulbholder is a twist fit in panel . . .


16 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. The rubber seal must be renewedif damaged.

Number plate lamps17 Undo the two mounting screws andremove the number plate lamp lens and seal.18 Withdraw the lamp unit until the wiringconnector appears then disconnect theconnector and remove the unit from thevehicle.19 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. The rubber seal must be renewedif damaged.

8 Headlamp beams - alignment

Refer to Chapter 1.

9 Dim-dip headlamp system -operation

1 This system comprises the dim-dip unit(mounted behind the right-hand lower faciapanel) and a resistor (situated behind the left-hand headlamp assembly).2 The dim-dip unit is supplied with currentfrom the sidelamp circuit and energised by afeed from the ignition switch. Whenenergised, the unit allows battery voltage topass through the resistor to the headlamp

dipped-beam circuits. This lights theheadlamps with approximately one-sixth oftheir normal power so that the vehicle cannotbe driven using sidelamps alone.

10 Instrument panel - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Working in the engine compartment,disconnect the battery negative lead, thenunscrew the union nut which secures theupper and lower sections of the speedometercable together.2 Position the steering column in its lowestpossible height setting then, using a suitableflat-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise out theswitch assembly from the left-hand side of the

instrument panel shroud. Disconnect theswitch wiring connector and remove theswitch assembly (see illustrations).3 On models equipped with an electrically-operated sunroof, repeat the above operationfor the sunroof switch.4 On models without an electrically-operatedsunroof, carefully prise out the cover from theright-hand lower corner of the instrumentshroud (see illustration).5 Remove the four instrument panel shroudretaining screws and remove the shroud fromthe facia (see illustrations).6 Undo the four screws securing theinstrument panel to the facia and carefullywithdraw the panel until access can be gainedto the rear of the panel. Release thespeedometer cable retaining clip thendisconnect the cable and three wiring blockconnectors from the panel (see illustrations).


10.4 On models without electric sunroof,remove cover from right-hand side of

instrument panel shroud

10.2b . . . then withdraw assembly anddisconnect wiring connectors

10.2a Carefully prise left-hand switchassembly out of instrument panel shroud . . .

10.6b . . . then disconnect speedometercable . . .

10.6a Remove instrument panel upper(arrowed) and lower retaining screws . . .

10.5b Remove upper retaining screws . . .10.5a Instrument panel shroud lower

retaining screws are accessed throughswitch apertures

10.5c . . . then withdraw instrument panelshroud

12


7 Remove the instrument panel from the facia(see illustration).

Refitting8 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure. On completion, check theoperation of all panel warning lamps andinstrument shroud switches to ensure thatthey are functioning correctly.

11 Instrument panelcomponents - removal andrefitting

21 Remove the instrument panel then proceedas described under the relevant sub heading.

Instrument illumination panel

Removal2 Remove the screws securing the right andleft-hand upper mounting brackets to thepanel assembly and remove both brackets(see illustrations).3 Release the rear illumination panelbulbholder by twisting it in an anti-clockwisedirection, then remove the illumination panelfrom the top of the instruments (seeillustration).


Instruments

Removal5 Remove the instrument illumination panel.6 Release the instrument panel coverretaining clips and lift the cover off theinstrument panel case (see illustration).7 Individual instruments can now be removedseparately by unscrewing their retainingscrews (see illustrations). When removingthe speedometer, note the foam washerwhich is fitted around the base of theinstrument stalk.


Printed circuit

Removal9 Remove the speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge and temperature gauge from the meter case as described in paragraphs 5to 7.10 Remove all bulbholders from the rear ofthe case by twisting them in an anti-clockwisedirection, then release the printed circuit from its retaining pins and remove it from thecase.

Refitting11 Refitting is a reverse of the removalsequence.


11.7b . . . and remove relevant instrumentfrom panel case (temperature gauge shown)

11.7a Remove retaining screws (remainingtwo arrowed) . . .

11.6 Release retaining clips and separateinstrument panel case and cover

11.3 Removing instrument illuminationpanel

11.2b . . . and remove upper mountingbrackets from instrument panel

11.2a Unscrew retaining screws . . .

10.7 . . . and withdraw instrument panelfrom facia

10.6c . . . and wiring connectors . . .


12 Cigar lighter - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the lighter element, then carefullyprise out the metal surround, followed by theplastic body. Note the wiring connectionsbefore disconnecting them and tie a piece ofstring around the connector to prevent thewire from falling back inside the facia.


13 Clock - removal and refitting 1

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Using a suitable flat-bladed instrument,carefully prise out the clock mounting trimstrip from the facia. Withdraw the trim anddisconnect the wiring connector from the rearof the clock. Tie a piece of string around theconnector to prevent it from falling backinside the facia (see illustrations).3 Undo the two clock retaining screws and

remove the clock from the trim strip (seeillustration).


14 Multi-function unit -operation, removal andrefitting

2Operation1 The multi-function unit (MFU) is mountedonto the rear of the fusebox, which is locatedbehind the right-hand lower facia panel. Theunit controls the following functions:a) Front and rear wiper system delay

intervals.b) Heated rear window timer.c) Courtesy lamp delay.d) Lamps-on warning bleeper.2 The MFU also has a self diagnostic modewhere it checks out all the relevant circuits itcontrols.3 To start the diagnostic sequence, press theheated rear window switch and turn on theignition switch on simultaneously. Release theheated rear window switch as soon as theignition switch is turned on, the MFU shouldthen bleep to indicate it has entered itsdiagnostic mode, then press the heated rearwindow switch for a second time. Subsequent

operations of the interior lamp switches, wiperswitches and headlamp switch will result in ableep from the MFU as it receives a signal. Ifthe unit does not bleep, a fault is indicated inthe relevant circuit. A third press on theheated rear window switch will enter the MFUinto the second stage of its diagnosticsequence. The MFU will now operate each ofits functions in turn starting with the heatedrear window, followed by the front and rearwipers and finally the courtesy lamp willoperate for approximately two seconds ifthere are no faults. When all checks arecomplete, turn the ignition switch off to takethe MFU out of its diagnostic sequence.4 If a fault appears in one of the circuitscontrolled by the MFU, then check therelevant relay (where fitted) and wiring. If thisfails to locate the fault, it is likely that the MFUis at fault. The MFU is a sealed unit and mustbe renewed even if only one of its controlfunctions is faulty.

Removal5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.6 Undo the five retaining screws and removethe right-hand lower facia panel (seeillustration).7 Release the left-hand fuse panel from theside of the main fusebox and disconnect thetwo wiring block connectors from the front ofthe fusebox (see illustrations).8 Remove the two fusebox retaining nutsthen partially withdraw the fusebox until the


13.3 Removing clock retaining screws(remaining one arrowed)

13.2b . . . and disconnect clock wiringconnector

13.2a Carefully prise out clock mountingtrim strip . . .

14.7b . . . and disconnect wiringconnectors from front of fusebox

14.7a Release left-hand fuse panel . . .14.6 Remove retaining screws (arrowed)and withdraw right-hand lower facia panel

12


upper wiring block connector(s) can bedisconnected (see illustration).9 Carefully turn the fusebox assembly aroundand disconnect the block connector from theMFU. Release the MFU from the rear of thefusebox and remove it from the vehicle (seeillustrations).

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Ensure that all wiring connectorsare correctly refitted. On completion,reconnect the battery terminal and check thatall electrical circuits function correctly.

15 Supplementary RestraintSystem (SRS) - operation

1 At vehicle start-up, a warning light locatedin the steering wheel centre pad will illuminatewhen the system electrical circuits areactivated by turning the ignition switch toposition “II” and will stay illuminated for 3 seconds whilst the system performs a self-diagnosis test. If this test is satisfactory, thelight will extinguish. If the test isunsatisfactory, the light will remain on or fail toilluminate at all, denoting that the systemmust be serviced as soon as possible. Systemoperation is as follows:2 Upon the vehicle suffering a frontal impactover a specified force, a sensor inside theairbag control unit, which is located in thesteering wheel centre, activates the system. Asensor (fitted to discriminate between actualimpact and driving on rough road surfaces,etc.) is also activated and power is supplied tothe airbag ignitor from the battery or a backupcircuit, causing the airbag to inflate within 30 milliseconds.3 As the driver of the vehicle is thrown fowardinto the inflated airbag it immediatelydischarges its contents through a vent,thereby providing a progressive decelerationand reducing the risk of injury from contactwith the steering wheel, facia or windscreen.The total time taken from the start of airbaginflation to its complete deflation isapproximately 0.1 seconds.

16 Supplementary RestraintSystem (SRS) - componentremoval and refitting

2Warning: Under nocircumstances, attempt todiagnose problems with SRScomponents using standardworkshop equipment.

Note: For safety reasons, owners are stronglyadvised against attempting to diagnoseproblems with the SRS using standardworkshop equipment. The information in thisSection is therefore limited to thosecomponents in the SRS which must be removed to gain access to othercomponents on the vehicle. Read carefully theprecautions given in Section 1 of this Chapter before commencing work on any part of thesystem.

Note: All SRS system wiring can be identifiedby its yellow protective covering.

Airbag unit

Removal1 Remove the ignition key and wait at leastten minutes to allow the system backupcircuit to fully discharge. Disconnect bothbattery leads, earth lead first, to avoidaccidental detonation of the airbag.2 Remove the two airbag unit retainingscrews which are accessed from behind thesteering wheel (see illustration).3 Carefully prise the airbag unit away fromthe steering wheel to gain access to its wiringbehind. Do not allow the unit to hang from itswiring.4 Unplug the wiring connector from the rear of the airbag unit and carefully removethe unit from the vehicle, placing it in safestorage.

Refitting5 Refit the airbag unit by reversing theremoval procedure, noting the following:a) The cable connector must face

uppermost when refitted to the airbagunit.

b) Observe the specified torque wrenchsetting when tightening the airbagretaining screws (TX30 Torx type) and take care not to cross-thread them.

c) With the airbag unit in position, presseither side of the steering wheel to allowthe ridge on the wheel to engage in thegroove of the airbag unit.

d) Reconnect both battery leads, negativelead last, and turn the ignition switch tothe “II” position. Check the condition ofthe system by observing the SRSwarning light located in the steeringwheel centre pad. The light should stayilluminated for 3 seconds whilst thesystem performs a self-diagnosis test. Ifthe test is satisfactory, the light willextinguish. If the test is unsatisfactory,the light will remain on or fail toilluminate at all, denoting that the system must be serviced as soon aspossible.

Airbag control unit

Removal6 Remove the airbag unit.


16.2 Remove retaining screws (A) torelease airbag unit (B)

14.9b . . . and disconnect wiring connector14.9a Release Multi-Function Unit fromrear of fusebox . . .

14.8 Fusebox retaining nuts (arrowed)


7 Disconnect the control unit multiplug andLucar connection (see illustration).8 Detach the SRS warning light from thesteering wheel.9 Remove the three screws securing thecontrol unit to the steering wheel.10 Release the SRS warning light wiringharness and remove the control unit.

Refitting11 Refit the control unit by reversing theremoval procedure, noting the following:a) If the control unit is to be renewed, then

the bar code on the new item must berecorded by your Rover dealer.

b) Take care to ensure that wiring is nottrapped between mating surfaces.

c) Observe the specified torque wrenchsetting when tightening the control unitretaining screws (TX20 Torx type) andtake care not to cross-thread them.

d) Refit the airbag unit, carrying out thesystem check.

Slip ring

Removal12 Set the steering in the straight-aheadposition.13 Remove the airbag unit.14 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove thesteering wheel, followed by the steeringcolumn nacelle.15 Disconnect the airbag wiring harnessmultiplug from the underside of the slip ring(see illustration).16 Remove the four screws securing the ringto the column switch assembly and removethe ring from the vehicle.

Refitting17 Refit the slip ring by reversing the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) If the slip ring is to be renewed, then the

bar code on the new item must berecorded by your Rover dealer.

b) Take care to ensure that wiring is nottrapped between mating surfaces.

c) Refit the airbag unit, carrying out thesystem check.

Airbag link harness

Removal18 Remove the ignition key and wait at leastten minutes to allow the SRS system backupcircuit to fully discharge. Disconnect bothbattery leads, earth lead first, to avoidaccidental detonation of the airbag.19 Remove the airbag unit.20 Set the steering in the straight-aheadposition then lock the steering column in itslowest position. 21 Remove the five fusebox cover securing screws and release the cover fromthe facia.22 Remove the three screws securing thelower half of the steering column shroud andmanoeuvre the lower half of the shroud clearof the column.23 Disconnect the SRS multiplug from themain wiring harness (see illustration).24 Release the SRS fuse from the side of themain fusebox.25 Detach the SRS harness multiplug fromthe slip ring.26 Release the cable tie securing the wiringharness to the steering column and removethe harness from the vehicle.

Refitting27 Refit the harness by reversing the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Take care to ensure that the harness is

correctly routed and not trapped betweenmating surfaces.

b) Check all wiring connectors are firmlyfastened

c) Refit the airbag unit, carrying out thesystem check.

17 Speedometer drive cable -removal and refitting 2

1 The speedometer drive cable is in twoparts. The lower cable runs from the gearboxto a point just below the fuel filter, while theupper cable runs from that point to the rear ofthe instrument panel.

Upper cable

Removal2 Remove the instrument panel and make anote of the correct routing of the speedometercable.3 Working in the engine compartment,release the cable sealing grommet from theengine compartment bulkhead and withdrawthe cable section from the bulkhead.

Refitting4 If a new cable is being fitted, transfer thegrommet from the old cable to the new item.5 Have an assistant feed the cable in throughthe engine compartment bulkhead whilstchecking from inside the vehicle that the cableis following the correct route behind thedemister duct, over the pedal mountingbracket and through the steering columnsupport bracket.6 With the cable correctly routed, refit thesealing grommet to the bulkhead then drawthe cable through until the coloured tape on the outer cable abuts the sealing grommet.7 Refit the instrument panel then reconnectthe speedometer cable sections and tighten the union nut securely.

Lower cable

Removal8 Apply the handbrake then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands toimprove access to the lower end of the cable.


16.23 Disconnect SRS multiplug frommain harness (A), SRS fuse (B),

SRS multiplug from slip ring (C) and cable tie (D)

16.15 Disconnect SRS wiring harnessmultiplug (A), remove slip ring securing

screws (B) and remove slip ring (C)

16.7 Disconnect Lucar connection andmultiplug (A), SRS warning light (B),

remove control unit securing screws (C)and release SRS warning light wiring

harness (D)

12


9 Pull out the rubber retaining pin whichsecures the lower end of the cable in positionthen withdraw the cable from the gearbox.10 Slacken the union nut securing the upperand lower cable sections together, thendisconnect the two cable sections (seeillustration).11 Release the lower cable from any relevantretaining clips or ties and remove it from thevehicle. Remove the O-rings from the lowerend of the cable and discard them as theseshould be renewed whenever disturbed (seeillustration).

Refitting12 Lubricate the cable lower end fitting O-rings with engine oil and insert the end fittinginto the gearbox. Refit the rubber retaining pinto secure the cable in position.13 Ensure the cable section is correctlyrouted and is retained by any necessaryclamps or ties.14 Connect the upper cable to the lowercable and tighten the union nut securely.Lower the vehicle to the ground.

18 Horn - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.2 Remove the front bumper.3 Disconnect the horn wiring connectors andunbolt the horn(s) from the body (seeillustration).


19 Windscreen/tailgate wiperblades and arms - inspection and renewal

Refer to “Weekly Checks”.

20 Windscreen/headlampwasher system - inspectionand adjustment

Refer to “Weekly Checks”.

21 Windscreen/tailgate washersystem components -removal and refitting

11 The windscreen washer reservoir is situatedin the rear left-hand corner of the engine

compartment, with the washer system pumpbeing mounted on the side of the reservoir.On 214 models, the reservoir is also used tosupply the tailgate washer system via asecond pump (see illustration).

Removal2 To remove the washer reservoir andpump(s), unscrew the mounting nut and boltsand lift the reservoir from the left-hand cornerof the engine compartment.3 Disconnect the wiring connector(s) from thepump(s) then disconnect the plastic tubingfrom the reservoir and remove the assemblyfrom the vehicle.


21.1 Windscreen/tailgate washer system components

18.3 Horn wiring connectors (A) andretaining bolt (B)

17.11 Lower speedometer cable O-rings(arrowed) must be renewed

17.10 Slacken union nut and disconnecttwo speedometer cable sections


1 Windscreen washertube T-piececonnector

2 Windscreen washertube

3 Reservoir cap4 Reservoir mounting

nut5 Reservoir mounting

bolt6 Washer pump

retaining clip7 Reservoir mounting

bolt8 Wiring connector9 Windscreen washer

pump10 Seal11 Washer reservoir12 Wiring connector*13 Tailgate washer

pump*14 Seal*15 Tailgate washer

tube*16 Non-return valve** Fitted to 214 models

only

4 Empty the reservoir of any remaining fluidthen undo the retaining screws and separatethe pump(s) and reservoir.5 If necessary, the windscreen washernozzles can carefully be prised out of theventilation grille and disconnected from thetubing. On 214 models, prise the washer jetout and remove it from the tailgate (seeillustration).6 If trouble is experienced at any time withthe flow to the tailgate washer, check that thenon-return valve is not blocked. The valve isfitted in the tube next to the reservoir andshould allow fluid to pass only outwards to thejet.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the washer tubes are not trapped whenrefitting the reservoir and note that theconnectors for the pumps are colour-coded toaid correct reconnection on reassembly.

22 Windscreen wiper motor andlinkage - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Operate the wiper motor then switch it offso that the wiper blades return to the restposition.2 Stick a piece of masking tape on thewindscreen alongside the edge of each wiperblade to use as an alignment aid on refitting,then open the bonnet.3 Slacken and remove the wiper arm spindlenuts and pull the arms off their spindles (seeillustrations). If necessary, the arms can belevered off their spindles by using a large flat-bladed screwdriver.4 Carefully prise out the seven trim caps fromthe ventilation grille to gain access to the grilleretaining screws. Slacken and remove all the retaining screws then release the eightretaining clips situated along the front edge ofthe grille and remove the grille from thevehicle (see illustration).5 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver,


22.3b . . . and remove wiper arms fromspindles

22.3a Slacken spindle nuts . . .21.5 Removing tailgate washer jet - 214 models

22.4 Windscreen wiper motor and linkage assembly

1 Ventilation grille2 Sealing strip3 Trim cap4 Screw5 Retaining clip6 Wiper arm spindle nut7 Wiper arm8 Wiper blade9 Spindle cap

10 Dust seal11 Right-hand spindle

assembly12 Connecting rod13 Operating rod14 Bolt15 Spindle cap16 Dust seal17 Left-hand spindle

assembly18 Dust seal19 Wiper motor mounting

bolt

20 Mounting rubber21 Spacer22 Water shield23 Wiper motor crank arm24 Spring washer25 Nut26 Dust seal27 Wiper motor28 Mounting rubber29 Spacer 12


carefully lever the wiper linkage arm off thewiper motor crank arm balljoint.6 Disconnect the wiring connector from thewiper motor and remove the four boltssecuring the motor to the bulkhead, thenremove the motor from the enginecompartment taking care not to lose itsmounting rubbers (see illustration).7 Remove the three bolts securing the right-hand wiper arm spindle in position then, usinga large flat-bladed screwdriver, disconnectthe linkage rod from the spindle balljoint andremove the spindle assembly.8 Disconnect the two linkage rods from theleft-hand wiper arm spindle assemblyballjoints and remove the rods.9 Undo the three left-hand wiper arm spindleretaining bolts and remove the spindleassembly.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Examine the wiper motor mounting

rubbers for signs of damage ordeterioration and renew if necessary.

b) Tighten the wiper arm spindle assemblyand wiper motor mounting bolts to thespecified torque and ensure all linkageballjoints are pressed firmly together.

c) Ensure the wiper arm spindles are cleanthen align the wiper blades with the tapefitted on removal and press the armsfirmly onto the spindles. Tighten the wiper arm spindle nuts to the specifiedtorque.

23 Tailgate wiper motor -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Operate the wiper motor, then switch it offso that the wiper blade returns to the restposition.2 Stick a piece of masking tape alongside theedge of the wiper blade to use as analignment aid on refitting.

3 Prise off the wiper arm spindle nut coverthen slacken and remove the wiper armspindle nut and pull the arm off its spindle(see illustration). If necessary, the arm canbe levered off using a large flat-bladedscrewdriver.4 Undo the spindle retaining nut then removethe toothed washer and rubber seal (seeillustrations).5 Open up the tailgate and undo the twoscrews securing the tailgate inner trim panelto the tailgate. Carefully prise out the screwretaining plugs.6 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, workaround the outside of the trim panel andcarefully prise it away from the tailgate to freeall its retaining clips. Once all retaining clipshave been freed, remove the trim panel.7 Disconnect the wiring connector and undothe bolts securing the wiper motor to thetailgate (see illustration). Remove the motorfrom the tailgate, noting the motor mountingrubbers and the washer and rubber seal fittedto the wiper spindle.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following:a) Examine the wiper motor mounting

rubbers and spindle seals for signs ofdamage and deterioration and renew ifnecessary.

b) Tighten the wiper motor mounting bolts tothe specified torque.

c) Ensure the wiper arm spindle is clean,then align the wiper blade with the tapefitted on removal and press the arm firmlyonto the spindle. Tighten the wiper armspindle nut to the specified torque andrefit the nut cover.

24 Radio/cassette player -removal and refitting 1

Note: The following removal and refittingprocedure is for the range of radio/cassetteunits which Rover fit as standard equipment.Removal and refitting procedures of non-standard units may differ slightly.

Removal1 Referring to the instructions supplied withthe radio/cassette unit, temporarily de-activate the security code.2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 To remove the unit, two standard DINextraction tools are required. These are twoU-shaped rods which are inserted into thefour small holes in the front of the unit torelease the unit retaining clips. The tools maypossibly be obtained from a Rover dealer orany audio accessory outlet, or can be madeout of 3.0 mm wire rod, such as welding rod.Using the tools, push back the clamps on theleft and right-hand sides, withdraw the unit


23.7 Tailgate wiper motor mounting bolts(arrowed)

23.4b . . . and withdraw toothed washerand rubber seal

23.4a Unscrew wiper spindle retaining nut . . .

23.3 Removing cover to reveal tailgatewiper arm spindle nut

22.6 Windscreen wiper motor mountingbolts (arrowed - lower bolt hidden)


and disconnect the wiring plugs and aerial(see illustrations).

Refitting4 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. On completion, connect thebattery negative terminal and reactivate thesecurity code.

25 Speakers - removal and refitting 2

RemovalFront speaker1 Remove the front door inner trim panel.2 Undo the three speaker retaining screws

then withdraw the speaker. Disconnect thespeaker wiring connectors and remove thespeaker from the door (see illustrations).

Rear speaker - 214 models3 Prise off the trim cap from the rear seat beltupper mounting point, then slacken andremove the two seat belt guide retaining bolts.4 Open up the tailgate, then remove the fourscrews securing the speaker grille panel andposition the panel clear of the speaker (seeillustration).5 Undo the four speaker retaining screwsthen lift out the speaker. Disconnect thewiring connectors and remove the speakerfrom the vehicle (see illustration).

Rear speaker - 414 models6 Working from inside the luggagecompartment, disconnect the speaker wiring

connections and undo the three nuts securingthe speaker to the parcel shelf (seeillustration).7 The speaker can then be lifted away fromthe parcel shelf from inside the vehicle.


26 Radio aerial - removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Remove the radio/cassette player.2 Undo the five screws securing the right-hand lower facia panel and remove the panelto gain access to the relay mounting bracket.Remove the relay mounting bracket retainingbolt.3 Trace the aerial lead back along its lengthand free it from any retaining clips or ties. Tiea long piece of string around the aerial endplug.4 Undo the two screws securing the aerial tothe roof and remove the aerial and sealingrubber. Carefully withdraw the aerial lead untilthe plug comes out of the aerial aperture thenuntie the string and leave it in position in thevehicle.

Refitting5 Securely tie the string around the aerial leadplug and fit the rubber seal to the aerial.6 From inside the vehicle, gently pull thestring through the radio aperture whilstfeeding the aerial lead in through the roof.When the aerial lead plug emerges on theinside of the vehicle, untie the string.7 Ensure the rubber seal is correctly locatedon the base of the aerial then tighten the aerialretaining screws securely.8 Refit the aerial lead to the necessaryretaining clips and ties then refit the relaymounting bracket and right-hand lower faciapanel. Tighten all retaining screws and boltssecurely.9 Refit the radio/cassette unit.


25.2a Slacken three retaining screws . . .

24.3b . . . then withdraw radio/cassetteunit and disconnect aerial and wiring

connectors24.3a Use DIN tools to release retaining

clips . . .

25.6 Rear speaker retaining nuts (A) andwiring connectors (B) - 414 models

25.2b . . . withdraw speaker from door anddisconnect wiring connectors

25.5 Rear speakers are retained by fourscrews - 214 models

25.4 Rear speaker grille panel retainingscrews (arrowed) - 214 models

12


12•20 Wiring diagrams


Notes, fuses and key to wiring diagrams

Wiring diagrams 12•21

12


Key to wiring diagrams (continued)

12•22 Wiring diagrams


Internal connection details, wire colours and key to symbols

Wiring d

iagrams 12•23

12

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 1: Starting, charging, ignition (carburettor models), cooling fan, warning lamps and gauges. All models

12•24W

iring diagram

s

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 1a: Modular engine management - single point injection

Wiring d

iagrams 12•25

12

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 2: Exterior lighting - sidelamps and headlamps. All models

12•26W

iring diagram

s

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 2a: Exterior lighting - signal/warning lamps. All models

Wiring d

iagrams 12•27

12

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 2b: Interior lighting and associated circuits. All models

12•28W

iring diagram

s

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 3: Ancillary circuits - wash/wipe, heater blower and heated rear window. All models

Wiring d

iagrams 12•29

12

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 3a: Ancillary circuits - electric windows, mirrors and central locking

12•30W

iring diagram

s

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 4: Anti-lock braking system

Wiring d

iagrams 12•31

12

1689 Rover 214 &

414 Up

dated

Version 09/97

Diagram 5: In-car entertainment and electric sunroof

rover 214

Documents

steering page

fittings page

driveshafts page

servicing page

pressure page

gearbox page

towing page

battery page