ROV Submersible PVC

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

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ROV submersible (PVC)by daniel2008 on November 22, 2008

Table of Contents

ROV submersible (PVC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   ROV submersible (PVC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   Motor test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 2:   Cutting away unneccesary parts of the motor housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 3:   PVC parts needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4:   Melting the PVC pipes together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 5:   Completed Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 6:   Painting the Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 7:   Making the camera housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 8:   Mounting the camera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 9:   Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 10:   Closing it all up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 11:   Finishing off (testing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 12:   Building the lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Step 13:   Disassembling the lantern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Step 14:   Closing up the holes, and making the window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Step 15:   Wiring the electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Step 16:   Finishing off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Step 17:   Photos of the lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Step 18:   ROV update . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Step 19:   ROV test in pool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Intro:  ROV submersible (PVC)Welcome to my latest project. The ROV submarine.Ever since fishing up in the North of Norway in my grandfathers new boat I have been wanting to make an ROV(Remotely Operated Vehicle) submarine to observe theseabed from the surface.So,I researched for parts and prices, and using the info I found I sketched out my first design!

***NOW UPDATED***Check step 12+ to see how you can build a waterproof ROV lamp.

***parts list***-PVC pipes and links-Xm broadband internet cable(depends on how far and deep you want the sub to go.Note;the longer and thinner the cable, the more power is lost along it, also youshould think about pressure resistance when choosing the lenght of the cable)-Epoxy glue and epoxy putty-motors x3(waterproof) I used water pumps-plexiglass (20x20cm)-12v battery or power supply(i used conventional AA batteries(10 of them) i know, its stupid but untill i can figure out another way of powering the sub it's going to have todo-sillicone-Camera housing parts (see pics)-spray paint-lots of zipties-Webcam-bolts for camera case (see pics)-propellers (diam. about 2.5-3cm)-small screws-thin plastic tube for motor shaft extension-and anything else that i havent mentioned but is in the pictures

**Tools needed**

-Metal saw-Scissors-wire cutters-pliers-small hacksaw-and a few other easily obtainable tools

*some basic soldering, wiring and creative skills is required to make this:P

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. battery pack [12V - X10 1.2V(AA)]2. motor (waterproof)3. camera housing4. 6m internet cable5. 12V battery pack(contains 10 AA batteries!!)

Image Notes1. my first sketch of the ROV

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 1: Motor testStep 1:(testing the motors and motor midifications)

---The main parts of the ROV are the motors, which enable it to move through the water in all directions.In the picture you see me testing one of the water pumps which i bought to use as a motor.

---later I will be showing you how to make propeller shafts and attatching the proppellers.

Step 2: Cutting away unneccesary parts of the motor housingStep 2:(cutting off the pump chamber)

---Since I was going to attach a bigger propelleron a longer shaft I needed to cut away the pump propeller chamber.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. water pump/motor2. 9V battery

Step 3: PVC parts neededStep 3:(identifying the parts needed)

---Here is a picture of all the parts i used to make the mainframe and the camera housing.The parts are made of PVC plastic and the pipe is 2.5 cm diameter.

---Here is a rough layout of how one side of the mainframe was going to look like.I found it very useful to mark all the parts, so i would know where each part belonged.

Image Notes1. camera housing2. lid3. pipe (ø 2,5cm)

Step 4: Melting the PVC pipes togetherStep 4:(melting the pvc pipes and links together)

---The pipes had to be stuck together in some way or another, and after some research i discovered that the best way was to melt them together. So i used my kitchengas stove to do this.

---In the second picture you can see the first side of the frame is ready, I have laid out the parts I prepared for the second side.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. Frame side 12. to be made -frame side 2

Step 5: Completed FrameStep 5:(Joining of the two frame sides, finishing the frame)

--- As you can see I have completed the 2 frame sides, and have stuck them together with crosspipes.The frame is now very sturdy.

I haven't included the dimentions of the frame, as I expect you will want to design your own.

Image Notes1. Frame side 22. Frame side 2

Image Notes1. motor mounted for the photo

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 6: Painting the FrameStep 6:(painting the frame)

---I decided to spraypaint my frame yellow(the standard ROV colour) and the camera housing black.

Image Notes1. spraypaint2. frame/camera housing

Step 7: Making the camera housingStep 7:(making the camera housing)

---To ensure that the camera wouldn't get wet i had to make a waterproof case and i decided to make it 'very' waterproof, so it could withstand the high pressure ofdeeper dives. (not that this first model would do that, but atleast i could reuse the case later on).The design i made myself, but researched some general info on the internet.

---The main section of pipe seen in earlier pictures needed a lid for the back and a plexiglass 'window'in the front.So i used a pvc pipe lid with a bit of plexiglass with drilled bolt holes stuck to the lid with epoxy.I also smeared sillicone glue around the borders between the PVC lid andthe plexiglass to make sure they couldn't separate.(as seen in second pic)

---I then cut some strong bolts i needed to keep the lid, pipe, and the plexiglass window together to the right length.

---The whole case is made waterproof by the bolts pushing the plexiglass surfaces against the washers at both ends of the pipe.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. plexiglass2. epoxy3. bolt holes4. PVC piping lid

Image Notes1. notice the sillicone smeared between the lid and the plexiglass

Image Notes1. notice the sillicone smeared between the lid and the plexiglass

Image Notes1. bolts used to keep the camera housing sealed

Image Notes1. bolts

Image Notes1. plexiglass window

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. paint can used for weight2. plexiglass window3. rubber washer4. sillicone to glue the washer to the pvc pipe5. pvc pipe

Image Notes1. plexiglass window2. bolts3. washer 14. washer 25. plexiglass/PVC lid

Step 8: Mounting the cameraStep 8:(mounting the camera into the housing)

--- I removed the original stand from the webcamera and replaced it by my own, smaller version.

---I also epoxy glued a nut to the camera housing so i could bolt the camera.

---Then i drilled 5 holes in the back lid:1-for the camera wire to the surface1-for the power wire to the surface3- for te motors.

Image Notes1. old stand2. new3. webcam

Image Notes1. nut and bolt to fix the camera to the case2. rubber washer

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. affixed camera

Image Notes1. motor power wire2. power to USB and data cable3. hole for motor wires

Step 9: WiringStep 9:(wiring motors, power lines and camera)

---Wiring is one of the most tedious parts of the work i did, but cosidering i had very little previous experience im glad that i managed it.

---There are many ways to wire the ROV (check out this page http://www.homebuiltrovs.com/ , it explains some of the best methods very well.

-I used a very basic way of wiring as shown in the picture below.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. epoxy putty

Image Notes1. camera wire2. motor wires3. epoxy glue

Step 10: Closing it all upStep 10:(closing up the camera case and attaching it to the mainframe)

---This step is where you have to try to fit everything (wiring connections) into the camera case...not an easy job :)

---just look through the pictures as there is no way of explaining :P

---finally i ziptied the camera housing to the frame

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. i cut a slit to keep the camera housing in position2. epoxy glue to help hold the housing in place

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 11: Finishing off (testing)Step 11:(testing it in the bathtub)

---To test that nothing was leaking I tryed the ROV in my bathrubthe results were good but I still have some buoyancy issues to fix.

---I also checked out some places by the seaside that i could test my ROV. See the pictures.

---Good luck making one, hope you enjoyed my first instructable.I have lots of projects going on and older ones that i have to document and i will try to have them up as quick as possible.

Image Notes1. model sailboat in the bathtub

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. sea

Step 12: Building the lampStep 12:(the sub needs a source of light down in the depths)

---Many readers have asked me if I have any plans for adding anything more to my ROV. Yes, i have. Unfortunately i havent had all that much time to work on it, but hereis what i have been able to make in the last couple of weeks. The waterproof ROV lamp.

***Parts you'll need for the lamp***-PVC parts(i used some common fittings from a kitchen sink piping system as thats what i had available at the time and they suited the purpose of having a screwablecap with a hole for a 'window')

-Plexiglass(for the 'windows')

-sillicone sealant(to fill in those holes :P)

-rubber washers

-some wire

-tape

-a Dot-it 3LED lantern(i used one of these as it already had the circuitry readymade and it would be quicker)

-AAA batteries for the lantern

-one small switch

(sorry all the materials are not in the picture, but in later pictures you can see them)

***Tools***-pliers-cutting knife

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

-solder set-scissors-screwdriver(phillips)

Step 13: Disassembling the lanternStep 13:(getting the guts out of the LED lantern and wiring the batteries and switch)

---Since i couldn't find any other way to open the lantern i had to break the plastic open. Some models have small screws and are quite easy to open.

---Once you have opened it. You want to remove and keep the pcb with the LED's attached to it, the chrome reflector plate and the transparent plastic shield lid. The AAAbattery holder won't be neccesary. I didn't use mine as i couldnt fit it into the PVC tube.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 14: Closing up the holes, and making the windowStep 14:(making the window)

---Since my pipe had two screw on caps with holes in to connect other pipes to it, i had to block both the holes. The front one was to be the light 'window'. The other one iused the plastic transparent glasspiece that i took out of the lantern, as it fitted perfectly.

---Put a thick lining of sillicone around the inside edge of the screw on cap, and push the plastic piece into place, avoiding too much stray sillicone(keep it clean and neat:P). I figured i could use this extra pipe attatchment hole to add a mechanical arm or some other device to it. Smear some more sillicone around the screwing rings of thecap. Then screw the cap on tightly and let dry.

---Now for the lamp window.Sand the chrome light reflection plate so that it is slightly smaller than the rim of the cap.Now trace the shape of it plus 3mm extra onto the plexiglass and cut it out. Make sure it fits tightly into the cap.Then put a blob of hot glue in the center of the chrome reflector plate and stick it in the center of the plexiglass circle.Now let it dry.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 15: Wiring the electronicsStep 15:(wiring the LED's to a battery)

---Solder two wires to the PCB board to which the LED's are attatched as in the picture.

---Now Connect the AAA batteries in series by taping them together and connecting with wires. If you have a small battery holder then that would be better, but i didn'thave one.

---Connect them to the LED's and voila, we have light!

---Now cut one of the wires and solder a switch to it. This i did as i would stick the LED board to the window/plexiglass and reflector piece, so the plunging switch on itwouldnt be accessible.Put a blob of glue onto the connection point to make sure the soldering doasnt come undone.

The electronics are now ready...

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. chrome reflector plate2. led PCB3. plexiglass window4. wire5. 3AAA

Image Notes1. connect in series

Image Notes Image Notes

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

1. light, sorry it's upside down2. messy replacement of a battery holder

1. heatshrink

Image Notes1. switch

Step 16: Finishing offStep 16:(putting it togethet and closing up)

---Put some hot glue around the LED's and press them into the holes in the reflector plate. Make sure that you dont get any glue on the tops of the LED's. And let it dry.

--- Now clip off the unecessary corners of the triangular PCB, so that it fits into the tube(pipe).

---Arrange the battery inside the pipe. Put a rubber washer between the rim of the pipe and the plexiglass disc. Now fit everything inside, and screw the cap on.You'll have to open the front window to turn the light on and off.

---Later im considering adding a light resistor to the circuit so that it turns on and off depending on the light conditions.

Image Notes1. hot glue

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Image Notes1. rubber washer should go here, between the plexiglass and rim of the pipe.2. clipped off corners3. battery and switch

Image Notes1. ready for a test dive

Step 17: Photos of the lampStep 17:(the step that you watch and enjoy :D)

Here are some underwater pics of the lamp, including some underwater pics of my ROV in my bathtub...yeah, sorry i havent yet been able to get to a pool. But the ballastproblems have been solved, simply by turning the ROV upside down in the water, all i need to do now is add a little bit more weight to the top so it gets neutral weight.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 18: ROV updateHere are a few things i have done to the ROV in the last week.

-Added a frame to the top/bottom (top in the water, bottom on land)-Bought a sealed lead-acid 12V battery (it came withought a charger, anyone know how i could charge it?)-Made some havy PVC weights (pvc pipes with metal in them) to strap to the bottom of the ROV for buoyancy ballance-Bought some relays (turned out to be the wrong kind) and 3 way switches to make a control box.-Made the control box (pic's are coming soon)-And this saturday i'm going to do the maiden vayage in my friends' pool..video's will be coming :D

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Step 19: ROV test in poolFinally i have managed to test the ROV.(thanks Ben, Zac and Kat ;P)And it was awesome!!Never expected that 6 months of work would give me such a good result.Well here are the pics, and the video both from onboard the ROV, from the surface and from my underwater camera.;) enjoy

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

Related Instructables

UnderwaterROV bySpaceShipOne

The MantaDrive: proof-of-concept for anROV propulsionsystem. byKiteman

Jesuit RoboticsJ1 Thruster(video) byzero.gx

DIY PVC $10underwater lightarm by thoma004

UnderWaterCameraHousing bySoupster

ImprovedUnderwaterCameraHousing bythemakeclass

Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 240 comments

 Dannne11 says:  Jul 26, 2010. 4:01 PM  REPLYbuy some speed controllers, a wireless camera and a RECEIVER+Transmitter and make it RC-driven. would be fun :)

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 28, 2010. 10:37 AM  REPLYradio waves don't transmit under water :P

 Alchemyguy says:  Mar 4, 2011. 11:56 AM  REPLYThat's not strictly true; the VLF range is used by navies to communicate with submarines running underwater, but is limited by the fact you need a bigantenna and/or High Power and is not open to amateur operators. :)

 Dannne11 says:  Jul 28, 2010. 2:16 PM  REPLYhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Underwater-ROV/step9/Control-Surface/

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 28, 2010. 3:08 PM  REPLYwell it still has a tether, all he is doing is running an extended antenna through the tether so as to minimize the number of cables that go throughthe tether. technically it is just as Remotely controlled as mine as it still uses a tether.

 guitar-is-awesome says:  Feb 21, 2011. 6:31 PM  REPLYWhy do you have mesh on the top? To protect propellers? It seems like a waste of materials and lots of drag when moving vertically...?

 Redneck2 says:  Jul 25, 2009. 8:55 PM  REPLYYea I am only 13 and I am hoping to finish mine sometime this week if i finish it i will post a video.

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 6, 2010. 6:53 AM  REPLY how did it turn out?

 Redneck2 says:  Jul 18, 2010. 7:51 PM  REPLYHey sorry haven't been on this site in about a year. ill get the pics by tomorrow i just got sidetracked and still need to paint it and fix some buoyancyproblems.

 Redneck2 says:  Jul 19, 2010. 8:15 AM  REPLYHere are some pics the camera housing isnt on it right now but the frame and motors are all wired up and ready. I also have the controller ready itjust needs a battery hope you like it ill get the camera housing done soon.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

 glane91264 says:  Jul 20, 2010. 11:04 PM  REPLYthanks for adding a pic of your control box, i have been thinking how i wanted to do this but not quite sure, and a picture helps me get ideas

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 20, 2010. 11:14 PM  REPLYi just realized i have totally forgotten to include pictures of my control box! will put some up soon

 glane91264 says:  Aug 18, 2010. 1:02 PM  REPLYAlthough i am almost done, it needs a few touchups, but this is pretty much it except i don't have the camera mounted just yetbecause i don't know the power requirements and I'm running from a 12v car battery and the camera is supposed to be pugged in AC.

 daniel2008 says:  Jan 13, 2011. 4:43 AM  REPLYi really liked your design! Looks like the vertical thruster gets less obstruction from the frame than on mine and, it´s centered!Well done!Have you tested it?

 glane91264 says:  Jan 13, 2011. 12:46 PM  REPLYThank you! And i did test it but while building it i was short on money so i tried to use 500pgh Bilge pumps (instead of the1000Gph) but they don't move it as well as id like given the size and weight. then i added another vertical motor but didn'tchange my dial (to adjust for the additional amps) to control the amount of thrust and it burt up. =/ but im going to take it apartand build a much smaller ROV... at some point hopefully, but i also used a home security camera with IR lights instead of aWeb cam.

 twitchfidelis says:  Aug 18, 2010. 10:34 AM  REPLYDo you have the controller box pictures yet. I would love to see how you set that up.

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 19, 2010. 1:53 PM  REPLYdude! this is really good stuff! i'm so glad you were inspired by my design, i like that you spaced the motors a bit away from the frame, willhelp in getting a little more thrust out of them. Do you have a camera on it yet? couldn't see it. You might need to buy some other propsthough for those bilge pumps, with slightly smaller angles of elevation. But i have to say. Well Done! oh, and make sure you paint it :) looks alot better after a few coats of paint. Post some pictures when it's done! i'll be looking forward to seeing the end result!cheers

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

 Redneck2 says:  Jul 22, 2010. 6:40 PM  REPLYWell heres the finished product sorry the pics arnt that good i used my cell phone.

 daniel2008 says:  Jan 13, 2011. 4:45 AM  REPLYWould be great if you could let me know how your tests went :)

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 23, 2010. 4:03 PM  REPLYnice man!! now all that remains is testing it! let me know how it works out :)

 Redneck2 says:  Jul 21, 2010. 5:47 PM  REPLYHey here's a pic of the propeller my dad made it its bigger then the old one and should give me the thrust i need. I also plan to paint ittomorrow i'll put it together and post some pics of the finished product tomorrow.

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 23, 2010. 4:04 PM  REPLYok, yes they look like they should do quite well!

 Redneck2 says:  Jul 19, 2010. 2:23 PM  REPLYYa i finished up the camera housing today but the silicone is drying, i'll put some bigger props on it and hopefully have it painted and puttogether by this weekend i'll post some pics when it's all done.

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 28, 2010. 10:36 AM  REPLYhad a chance to test it out yet? would be cool with a video :) i'm about to test mine in a very nice lake in norway, i hope to put up somenew video

 Sharlston Cat says:  Dec 8, 2010. 11:41 PM  REPLYWhat Depth Can It Go???

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

 MINDFREAK9189 says:  Aug 6, 2010. 12:22 AM  REPLYsugesst a method to protect my Rf module as i am also makin a underwater robot. the method should be in such a way that no interference should occur asmy setup is wireless.please help.......

 doctorpsyco says:  Aug 1, 2010. 12:40 AM  REPLYHi, as an estimate how much did this rov cost.?

 daniel2008 says:  Aug 1, 2010. 2:49 AM  REPLYaround 100-150 $

 harry88 says:  Jul 8, 2010. 10:55 AM  REPLYdoes it actulaly sink

 daniel2008 says:  Jul 8, 2010. 2:46 PM  REPLYyes it does, watch the video and you'll see :)

 harry88 says:  Jul 9, 2010. 12:35 PM  REPLYno i mean to the bottom

 rovforitaly says:  Jun 19, 2010. 1:24 PM  REPLYHi, great job! Would you consider the possibility of selling to me a Rov like yours? I am from Italy. Thanks.

 daniel2008 says:  Jun 20, 2010. 12:22 PM  REPLYin the close future i doubt i'd be able to build one, but maybe sometime later when i have time i might be able to build one. I'll let you know if i can do it :)

 rovforitaly says:  Jun 26, 2010. 6:28 AM  REPLYHi Daniel, Thank youn for answering me. Please let me know when you have the time to make a rov for me. I would love to have one and your designseems one of the best. Regards, Lionel

 superstupendoman says:  May 19, 2010. 12:14 AM  REPLYI can not understand why you modify this pump to make an helix propeller. I think  that is more simple use the pump like a jet-pump-propeller (whitout tuningwork). Please teach me.

 daniel2008 says:  May 23, 2010. 12:16 PM  REPLY this is a one way bilge pump, it is made to pump water in one direction only, hence why i cut the housing off and attached a prop so i could make it workboth ways

 its_me_daniel says:  Mar 4, 2010. 1:15 PM  REPLY this looks great! i really am interested in giving this a go, could you tell me what waterproof motors they are please?

thanks, Daniel

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 5, 2010. 11:45 AM  REPLY heythe pumps are bilge pumps and go for between 10 and 50$ online (ebay).i used ?pantry pumps? since i couldn't get bilge pumps.keep me posted on how it goes and i'm happy to answer any questions you may have about the build.Dan

 TenSecondEpic says:  Mar 10, 2010. 1:20 PM  REPLYhow long is it?

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 11, 2010. 6:02 AM  REPLY the rov? it's about 40-50cm long

http://www.instructables.com/id/ROV-submersible-PVC/

 TenSecondEpic says:  Mar 9, 2010. 11:02 AM  REPLYcan you tell me what and were you got the propellers?

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 10, 2010. 2:56 AM  REPLY ebay

 its_me_daniel says:  Mar 6, 2010. 1:17 AM  REPLY Hi, thanks.I have had another idea, i could get a 'tee' piece of pvc pipe and cap it off at each end, then use one of those little 3 volt hobby motors, drill a holeabout the size of the shaft in one of the ends, and poke the shaft through, then fill it with epoxy.

That way it would be waterproof and i would be able to connect it to the main frame ROV! now i just need to get a few props.

BTW; what size pvc pipe did you use since i will need to get it so the motor will fit inside.Daniel :)

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 6, 2010. 6:36 AM  REPLY yes that would work but i heard of people using the old 35mm camera film containers and doing the same thing but encapsulating the motor inwax. Wax is cheaper and easier to handle and 'dries' super fast. The pvc pipe diameter is 2.5cm i believe.

 its_me_daniel says:  Mar 6, 2010. 7:25 AM  REPLY Hey, ill give that a go, i think i will be a bit of trial and error for me. I will be able to get the containers and motors from Technology at school.

Thanks again!

 Q branch says:  Jul 21, 2009. 1:29 PM  REPLYneat! i'll have to get started on my own soon... what current speeds can this handle?

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 6, 2010. 6:54 AM  REPLY up to about 1m per second, not fast, but then it's not a speedboat

 clemsonguy1125 says:  Jul 21, 2009. 1:51 PM  REPLYyou should use pvc cement instead of melting

 daniel2008 says:  Mar 6, 2010. 6:53 AM  REPLY yes

 Atarimark says:  Sep 30, 2009. 7:18 AM  REPLYWhat brand of water pump are you are using? I like the sleek design of those pumps over the bulky box shape of the ones I am finding.

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