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P O R T U G A LA N D

G A L L I C I A,

W i T B A R E V iK W O f

T H E S O C IA L A N D P O L I T I C A L S T A T E

O F T I U

l U S Q U E P R O V I N C E S :

AMU A ¥B* llBMAftHS Of>

R E C E N T E V E N T S I N S P A I N .

I S T W O V O I D M B S . ' ]

V O L . I.

L O N D O N :

JO H N M URRAY, A LD EM A R LE-STR EET,

UDCccnxvi. t

LOSDON;P(1nU>J W. Ci««So Mil iMXI,

toofgM Stn«i.

C O N T E N T S

O F T H B F I R 8 1 V O L U M E .

CHAPTER r.

V o « * n s to Li«W b—St^kiqi Poekef>-Li>boB— V le v over th e T»gvia— C)Qtr4— U a ) ' o f CoUrM — >1a r i ^ » a P d la c v ^ U r . B v ck fu td 'a ViU*— I n s b M & terail^—Vo>tiiûc»e G a iac« I

C&AFTER II.

K o a d t o H i j V i — C o a v e a t o f M t f r a — C o n s e n t o f AWolxv^tc

— U n o a s t i < S } S t« fn c g o a < j« t a d — T b a i l l - i a t e d lo v « e o f

D o Q P « O r o l o d i M t d e C a * l r u — F o U t ic a <i « h e U o n k a — T h e i r » i x u l b e t u t t - ^ i i o m n j < n a |^ i£ l< e e « e o f t h e C o n -

T « a t o f A U o W g tt— C b « T « Q i o f B a t a U i a — 8 u n « t y ¿ 1 C o

im b r » — S y s t e m i< ur«ue«l a I t h e U o i v ^ n c t y — T b c Q e r d « n o f T e a » — U v la & e b o l j r C o o tp o K o f t h » C ^ r B M l i r » »

S p u u i h e B o n u l u « — B M u r j r g i ' t b v l» « B u tc fu I B i i d « o f O p o r to — A t r i i s J « t O p o r t o . . . . . 2 3

C H A V T K R 1 1 1

C (tont a n d C u u n tc js o f VUIa P lo r— P o rtu fo e se so cw ty -* E ffect o f t1)e re c en t ou tbts P v rtu g o « K C b a tac fe r— ¿ u t h o i leave» O voiiu—T rccncw loiis S r u re — F 4 li o f L>on>»t»— D («erip ti£« o f tb a T r a t oe M ootas—T h e V4t«a> t« u 3 esw F ew la l m iA oer» o f i i io Noblsa— D iiu e r a t th e

O p itA a S o t — C barartsT a s d M u iiio B o f th « »eow aM a geuhet LA*»ego—Bospitfc iy «i Ssntot F«r-r« ir4— S uper« tiiion E n c lu i i te d K o u m * —K stiuQ to

r»«v

67

C H A P T E R IV .

A u th o t lc a v « t O porto t m M biI tin )«— ruf1u^:u«M Autbot«* t ie i (U a n n e d -E x q u is ite B ea 'U y o f tb e E n tiC M inJ»— J o j o w M a ia w w g f th * P w iJ « — D rAasatie D en et* — A iith o r lou>» h i* w » y b * F o r t s i— T a m b k S u i > ^ i t v ao f t h e B r u c t u « — A V a U i i to i o e — C w n in l i» — A u l h o r e n l e n

S p w a — A tttiq u n ted L a o d l^ d y o f CaUiu*— C)ld-£ftih3oB«l Iu > a t 8»a ti*g«— S h riM M S t. J*«?© i e C o ia p w lr lla —F t« ld o i C o ru so k -^ In B u m e « v t (He M o o b — Pw«>oii>t« r » k i o t » 9 » o f t h e Q i l l i e i M * — F « t r o l . . • . I W

C U A P T H R V ,

CiawM Ci«»ujM o f the M a r ^ a t t« —Doii FcUpfe M «ed« —Tb» Aolhvr AfMstud—Slate of P*rtiM b ^ m — An«cdo»s o f K iag FcrdiB aoA -Jouici^'1ft S i0t»at{0 *ith tbe Roja]i*t Volmi(«w —Kuicwui B'lildioK'^BoVbir T»le* o f the 8p»ni4nJ—Supitilnions « f Ih« Pcirtueu«»« - T h e EseoUi, vr W olîl^vell«r—A t»aly loyftl Danis—

‘b e NegM — L uaicrou* JiKDUifittin» « r « a

AlealdÂalhvt .........................................................

C H A P T E R V I .

A u th o r A rre«’fid )l«scriptU ni o f B p iie . ttw n C ap -U io -Q a » e ra l. aow ’lie fam ou* C aflU t C h ie f com roaJidinj io B i# e a j—R g u ia ’e T> ibuaal— A u lh o r E *4jn ioed—E < - m m n t i a S w it ia g o on P a ro le —S t* ie o f PuW ie k 'e e t a i— lom ei»#« P ow er o f «be € t e t g y ^ p « '» b N«1»<>n9 o f Ee* U n n i» I'rwdwiD— L o re u vA Demotion b S iia b — Vij?»- U a e e o f th e P o k i c ^ S r f o r A tocha— E g u ia ’a T iib u aa J— A o th o c m to fc a l to L iberty— Re-ente«» Poitwfc'»’ •

m

C H A F T K R V ir .

Pte«F i n t In p r (B U o n i eou firm ed— S u r p u n n g S M O ty ot th «

S n t f e Odukho— Sup«T9Utign o f (h e B e o to ^ C o n v e o t a t G cf’n w u a t — l a l i t b i f u t « o f tb c U u jb o a s d

M m iJi(tiinrrn o f th e T raM S e u m p m d — B ic a k ia if m th e C unvciit P u lo o r — U o a k i» b I ^ r U / y — R u tu m tv L i ib u n S41

C H A P T E R V i a .

O p e o ia « ; « F t h e O o r t« « — lY i e C b n m W n — D o a

A r r iT f t l IQ t h e T « ^ s — S v c v > t o m a k o t tu n i h e C h a r t e r —

T o iD u lC e — U e lA T ic h o l; P u t ; t>t R r m f i c a — P r o g r e s s o f

t h e R e T o l i f t io n — D o t i c ; u f C > ju K — K a h g i a t i o a o f t h e I r n p c ( i i i l ) 8 t» ~ T n te ’ T>?'* w i t l i C o u n t V iU e R i ; i o q b o w l

( h e F r i g a t » — V i s i t t o C o e t s — A K i g h C « A d v e a t u r e . ¿ 7 2

i f o T c a ..................................................................... ........... . 311

BItBATA TO TOL. 1.

P a ^ LiM.i 19. fw aut« nM «.t ; Q, /»* «verwbcie, er«ry »IWR.

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M l DBA« L oB1> E<5lllC>(í>^T,

T»ii' g rea ter {«rtion o f th is work h as been

long w ritten, an d vraj oriffiaally m ten d cd to have*

been incoqx im led w rüi a poUtKftl on

P o r l u ^ l published some years ago, o f wliicli it

was only a p a r t and^wmtinuation. I n tlia t treati«*

I cadoaTonTcd to m j ruaders acm e Ú26Íght

m fo th e law s o f P o rtu g a l, th e iQiutidpal and

ju d ic ia l eystCDi o f th a t country, th e existing

tenuTOB o f pr<>]>erly, th e a4:tu^ s ta te o f her

trade , the rela tive s tren g th an d position

o f th e po litical p a rtie s wliich t)ien divided the

kingdom , T lia t w ork re&?TTed exclusively to

t h o ^ deeper an d d rie r consideratioDs, which,

howcTet frau g h t w ith in te re s t to th e politician,

a re , comiîiralivTly, l i ttle congenial to th e tat»(e

o f the ^ D O ’a l re a d e r ; b u t th is na rra tiv e o f niy

jo u rn ey th ro u g h P o rtu g a l, h ith e rto ui>publiahe4

i» o f a lig h te r cast, contain ing «>me sketc:li«B

o f society, m ixed u p with personal adventure«, ’

an d occasioDally alludixig to those peculiar hab its , <

Tiii 4 OTWOATlPK.

superititionB» qticI crp i^n m upon w h ith Oiy jwli-

lical cliacgcs o f th e laat few years cao have, a«

y e t, p roduced n o scnwWc imjirCHîon.

T h ere w as O ne, iDdeeJ, who h ad <W6ontL*d to

receive t i i s tr ib u te o f filial atfcction. T o th a t

heloved P a re n t ! should have offered t!iis h t t k

work w ith a fu ll cODScieusnetis o f its m any im-

l>erfotUoP», b u t w ith an earnest ho{*e th a t it

ra igh t sh ed a tran sien t g leam o f p leasure over

som e o f tho«e weary hours t i a t m arked th e pry-

gTQBs o f decliniD|r streogtli. CircurasUn«?^, how-

over, p rev en ted its appearance a t th a t tim e, and 1

subsequently dropped th e in ten tion o f publishing

i l a t a l l B u t the s tirring events th a t have la te ly

tak en place, an d a re sd ll occurring in th e n o rth

e rn proviDcea o f i^paln ; th e c r te n t to w hich the

in te rests o f G re a t B rita in have been com m itted

in th is m ost unhai^py s tru g g le ; and , m ore th an

all, th e deep inti^reet wldcb 1 feel in th e welfare

o f th e v irtuous an d h ig h m inded B a^qaes. are

c ireucistan tes which have induced m e to refiume

m y pen , an d give some h r ie f account o f tJie social

and iw lilical utate o f Biscay.I was, a t one tim e, well acquM nted w ith th a t

líE D IC A T U W . *

cwuntry, au il learned , a t an early period of

to adm ire the c liaractcr i h d íqryreáaXe tlie in*

Rtitulions o f, a people l i tt le Jtnowu to th e B n tis li

pubEe, b u t, perhap«, tb c noblest, th o u g h now

tlie m ost oppi'CMcd, io E nrope.

A s m y o ld P o r tu ^ ie s e m anuscript woa still in

oxistence, I <lelermi2ie d to combine, in th e sam e

work, my obscrvation» on B is ta y an d th e narra*

tivc o f loy jo u rn ey th ro u g h T o rtu g a! an il Oal-

Itciz.

I fe lt th a t, a lth o u g h t i e political condition

o f P o rtu g a l h as m ateria lly changed sincc my

residence i a th a t country , an d m y u a n a tiv e may

no t, tLerefoi'O, bo found to poftscsa th e eag er io-

te ro a t in sp ired b y a d e ta il o f p a s w D g occm ient^s,

still th e period in question w as m arked b y a crisis

perm anently affecting th e destin ies o f th a t k in g '

dom ; aud, a lthough th e subjcct« a lluded to in

th&se separa te p a r ts o f the sam e w ork, a re not

precisely sim ilar, s till th e re arc m any po in ts o f

in te re s t common to b o th ; for, indeed, no |>olitieal

circumatancics affecting Spain can fail o f e x « ’-

cising, perhaps an Indirect, b u t s till a ccrtain

influence on the »ister kingdom .

O T D 1 € A T 1 0 > .

T h e ex traord inary s la te o f o a r p resen t rclatioDS

« i th S p a n Isas m dopcd m e to en ter a t some

len g th in to th e ac tual j>olitIcs o f Um t kingdom .

T lio Basiûes, whose records a ie tra u g lit w ith

in te rest, and, poUtiealiy »peaking, I m ay alm ost

say wit)i wonder to every reHw'ting m ind, al-

thoDgh extrem ely influential from t)w ir character,

th e ir Ticiuity to th e fron tier, and thi^tr alm ost

im pregnah le country , oco-upy h a t an m consider-

ah le poriioo o f th e SpaniBlfcierritory. F ro m th is

cause pcr}iaps, no constitu tional histi^ry ex ists i>t

th is m ost in teresting p e o p l e a n d th e grow th of

th e ii privilegen from the posseswon o f some

e lem entary principles o f h b c rty in th e tw ilight of

th e m iddle ages to tlie syslom o f w ell-regulated,

b u t alm ost unbounded freedom >*hicb th ey have

since enjoyed, is only to b e traced th ro u g h many

docum ents, and in notices. coj>ious enongh, i t tM

true , b n t sca ttered th rough th e w orks o f many

h istorians.

I h f tT C endeavoured to draw u p a brief, Vut, 1

hope, connected sta tem en t o f th e ir gradually

im proving law s a n d hborrics; an d h a re referred

Toy read e r for every fact o f m om ent, to the

D E D iC 4 > T I C m . »

chroniclers and lasto riana o f th e tunc. T o the

m an who th inks th a t th e justicc o f a ^ a t

po litical qucBliüU shou ld in some degroc aflact

th o policy o f h is G ovcrnaient, thia slalèrocnt

m ay n o t h e wholly deeillü te o f in te rest ; while

in the occasional iioticcs o f ancicn t m anner« and

opinions, viáhW in th e record o f old transaction»,

th e an tiquarian m ay perhaps fiod m a tte r o f

am nscm en t.

W ith respect to B erlu g a l, 1 h a re dw elt h a t

a jightly O D the cities, th e churches, and the

p a laces ; objects w hich generally , an d ju stly , oc

cupy largì* a spaco b a work o f th ia na tn re ;

b o c w w I felt th a t every builtU ng o f iropoTtanL>e,

an d alm ost every circnntslaoce o f n o te in tho

g re a t towns o f P o rtu g a l, h a re b een accurately

dcBcrilied b y preceding authors, w ithin th e la s t

few years. I have choscn a hum bler p a th , and

have endeavoured to le a d m y read e r over groiuid

n o t vrholly void o f in terest, th o u g h eom paratively

unexp lo red ; to m alie h im acquain ted w ith the

fa iry fields o f th e M inho, w ith th e gloomy supcr-

atitions o f th e w ild d istric ts o f A lentejo , w ith the

feudal s ta le o f society still ex isting in th e T rax

ja i DED1CAT10>-

os M ontes, an d to give him sott>c in s ig h t in to the

l>eciiliar h ab its o f th e v irtuous b u t ahnost un*

know n Ganid&ns.

T h is U ttlc work wHl no t ass is t th e traveller

th ro u g h P o rtu g a l an d G a lliria a« a g u id e , and

b ag n o prelensioo to th a t ch a rac te r; b u t is

ra th e r a reco rd o f events th a t befcl th e au thor

d a r in g liis joxtmcy th ro u g h th e country a t a vltj

critical |>eriod, an d o f observations grovring out

o f th a t peculiar s t i t e o f ihiogs.

M y m ode o f travelling was ciilculated to secure

the general k ind o f inform ation 1 wished to

a tta in . F ro m C o ru n n a to Ca£>© S t. V ioccnt my

jo u rn ey s v e re invariably j*erlbrn>ed on horseback,

and 1 wad thus enabled to deviate a t pleasure

iro m tlie high-r<fad, an d ponetrato in to th e m ost

secluded districts, encountering a t tim es g rea t

hardships, an d even considerable peril, m ixing

with a ll classes, an d o ften jo in ing tl\e peasan try

as they collected a round th e ir evening fires.

I ’hoRC habitd , com bined w ith th e distracted

s ta te o f the tim es io * h ich m y expeditions were

generally nndertakeo , occasion ally involved me

in suspicion, an d le d m e in to situations o f eon-

P F D ln A T lO N , r i ü

sideraWe cm W irassm ent; b u t perhaps enabled

me to obtaio ttoma knowledge o f the popular

feeling.— a linowleilgc which in morrcnts o f poli

tical disturbance cau seldom be ac<ûirod exccpt

by personal and somewhat sctcto experience.

I must also adm it that 1 may have been in*

Tolved in adventuroij no t strictly de£eDslble on the

score o f prudouco; b u t i t w ill be remembered,

I trnst. that many years have elapsed since tbeir

ocriurrencc, and 1 ■vra* tlien a t a time o f life when

diiliculticv to be surmounted, and dangers to be

braved, are ralher a sourco o f pleagurable excite

ment, than u f wise and careful avoidance.

Unacquainted, tnv dear Lord, with your feeUngs

on the political points to which 1 have alluded,

bu t. kaoM'iag your gvneral lore o f litoratnro. I

have vcnttired to request your acceptance o f this

little work in it£ present shape, and shall feel

gratified i f its perusal afford you an hour's

amusement.

I remain, dear L o rd l^gremont,

Y o im , most affectionately,

T h e A u t h o r .

f . ’7

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r O R T U G A I i A N D G A L L I C I A .

C IT A P T E U I.

t» T.iebeiv—Vkv otk th» Tak *— CUb t r * — v f Cs > ] Am— P A l w e — W r . B e c k t v t d '«

Vi)lA—Iruh Matftiiily—Pvitui?<«:s« Gbix»:.

I icMBAiiKicD o n lx ta rd the D u k e o f V ork s learn* pik'kctj on tlic cTcning o f th o 2£t}i o f Ju ly , 1827, an d q u itte d th e harbour o f Portsm outh a t six o’clock. W o g^lided rapidly a lo n g th e coast of H am p sh ire ; the w ind M ! ; th e n ig h t w as lino, an d there wan li ttle m olioa o a the w ater. 1 paccd the dock till a la te hour, an d wha jo io ed b y a gôntlo- mftB, whobc convcrfladon, rep le te w ith E as te rn lor«, ftttractcd luy a tteo tion . I after>>ai*ds h ea rd him announced as M r. W olff, the ce lebrated m is- sio rarv . th en proceediug w ith h is wife, L a d y G eurgiana, to th e H o ly Lînd, I was iutrCKluciMl to lie r in th e evening, and could no t b u t admiro th e unheeitatiD g devotion w ith v h ich she r e nounced h e r n a tive country anil h e r n a tu ra l con* uexions to follow h e r h iisbaad 's jbrtunc«, an d

D

protoote liOT rcliôm s faitlx iu a d is ta o t a iid bar- tjarcms lan<L

\V c h a J pasbcd the coasts o f Ifau ip sliirc and 3>orsotshiro d u rin g i h t n ig h t, and now saw, a li*w m ik« distaTit, h u t fu ll in view, th e d a rk re d «horc* o f DevOD^hirc- Im m ediateiy before u s Ike E xo poured i ts nohle stream in to the Q id D n el: we sk ir te d tlie p k tu rc sq u e coves o f D aw lish, h u t an UDfriendly m isl cenccaled them from o u r s ig h t : we glided b y B erryhead ; we p assed the ftirze- covered height« o f A sh e m e ; an d S ta r t Po io t, b trelching boldly in to th e oecan, wa* tk e la s t B rit is h head land th a t g ree led as over th e deep. W o th en 'k»oT« s tia ig h t tow ards UähiiQt, in a south* \7csterly direction, passed th a t is lan d d u rin g tlic following u igh t, an d en te red the B e y o f Biscay. T h e ideas o f sto rm an d d reed , whii:h th e o ld song an d no rw ry aaROci*tiona have so lo n g coQjao<1i3d w ith th is ünnoofi bay , w ere not, upon th is occ*- sioD, w eakened h y any unusual calm^ we w r o otdy im pelled, i t i* tru e , h y a l ig h t a n d favourab le bre«*e, b u t the w aters were sufficiently rutBed to cüQtrast advantagecusly , in p o in t o f g ran d eu r a n d size o f w«ve, w ith th e channel whicli we li*d ju s t left. A windy d ay was succeeded by a fisc etevli^hc n ig h t.

T h e following m orning was csUm. an d th e sea h a d a fine b in e tinge. 1 finished, w ith reg re t, th a t delight& d p ic tu re o f E a s te rn m acners, the

“ Epicurean,” odd o f th o m ost fa»dnatÍD g works o f ftn au thor wliu ne}*er fu ls to titm »port }iú reader« in to tb e sconc« an d cîinatcs ho dcsciibcto, as m uch b y th o ju stn ess as h y th e l>eauty o f his im ^ c r y .

O n th e ] s i u f A u g u s t we were sk irting the l ^ d and m ountainous coost o f GalH cia; we saw th e lighthouse o f C o ru n n a Id tb o d istaneoi wo pas»ed tiia picturecque iîland o f CÍAaj^&K; and the h ig h h ills in th u IncV ground m inglud well witii occasional glim pses o í tb o in tcrvon iog ee$,: we w ere borne rap id ly a long b y M onte B oa V illana, artd C ape F in isterre , celebrated os th e Umit o f ih o renow ned B a j o f Biscay. T{io biUa a K 1 Barron, ao d liavo th a t »andy appearance so charac> teiiiftii: o f Spanisli suenery. T lie villages are A?w; an d th e re LB HtOe w o o d e n th e c o a s t which we sometimos a|rpruaclied ao n e s r l j th a t we saw and h e a rd th e waves b reak in g upon its g rau ite rt>cks. O n th e evening o f th e foUowing day wc saw the large an d lU lie B eriines, iw o g ro u p s o f b o ld and p eaked cr&gs, st&nding fa r ou t in tho sea. Soon añ e rw ard s wc liailcd a sliip proceeding to G ibral- tar< an d iu a few m inutes le ft h er fa r bobind. I t k djfTicult to describe th e cffeet produced on the m in d b y th e rap id ity o f steam navigation io th e n fli^b o u rh o o d o f s tr ik in g an d varied s c e a e jy : objects fa tig u in g to the Bight, i f dw elt upon too Icmg, ap p ear onclianting w hen th ey pass before

* b 2

t t c eye in vapid »ucf*cs8ioti, like shiftiog; sccneso a th e 8ta|?e, W o w rre now iu k t i tu d o 39®, Sliid i ts m fliicnee was pcrocptible. W c enjoyed llic heavenly slillneas o f a w u tlie m evening, yet were n o t re ta rd ed b y tUo u n u x rsa l calm. T he sv tting 8un shed a fine glow on tho water», illum inated th e di&tant sails o f th e «hip wo h ad latH y hsuled, a id sLcd i ts laat g iories on ib o Berlin« crags, which p resen ted them selses in m any differe n t b u t always in p icturesque po in ts o f view, an d iit len g th sank b en ea th th e to riso n .

E a r ly on th e following m orn ing 1 saw ioimodi* aiclv a-head th e rock o f L isH on: th e h ills o f C in tta rose finely in tlie background, an d the neighbourin g coast w as s tn d d ed w ith villa» in term ingled w ith olive an d o rao g c groves. T h e entrance o f the T ag u s is f in e : on one side th e shore is crowded with palaces; on the o th er, the hills, tJiough neither very hold nor varied, possess sufllcient elevation to give characler to th e scene. T h e fo rt o f Belem ia curious, p icturesque, and irreg u la r, l>ut w ithout arch itectural l>cauty. W e passed b j th e house o f th e B ritish A djo iia l, L o rd A iuclins B cauclerk . an d tho palace o f th e C ardinol, a »j>atious edifice, w ith m any tu rrc ls , b u t a ^-ery unplcasing display o f sla te roof. A s wc sa iled u p the river, Uie Ikcanty o f tlie view increased. TJie noble b u t unRnishcd p a la te o f th « A juda crowned tlie iQmmit o f ft neighbouring s te e p ; and th e n th e

CB. I .] I .I6B0 N— îlEKVIiS’S HOTEL. ^

whole city o f L isbon, buU t oo its seven b1cpi>ing bills, an d OT«>.an-ing tlic T a ^ , gradually revealed i tw lf ; Hiid as its palaoes an d co n v en t#iBtenqH-wcd witli ^'ftrden«, v,erc seen rising above M ch other, i t ccrtain ly form ed a niûnt iiopcwmg olgeet from th e water. E n te r in g one o f the nuiniTOiis boaU b y wbich n o wüpc bo«âüged, an d row ing a e ro « tKe T ag u s . I lan tied a t Painpoullia. an d û i^ û d c d a steep liiU th a t loads to R eeves’» H otel. O ur voyage Had only lasted s is days, and w as consldcrwl prosperous. ‘I 'h e p a rty on l)oard e x iib U d i a curiouR assem blage o f pcrsoos, enter* tftining T cry diasim iW idt aa. and d iatingaishcd b y very ditforeiit m an n ers ; an aascm blage th a t i^ u ld hard ly ► u n d er any o ther iircxims»ances, have boen b ro u g h t togcU ier; an d th is d l« repanf7 o f fastes, hab its , an d opinions som etim es gave riso to i u n u w n g an d no t a ltogether uniustruetive scelles. B esides L ady G eorg ians and M r. W olff. M rs. B urgoyne wa« also a passenger, a lad y of g re a t ta s te an d accom plishm ents, th en sail!rig to L isbon to jo in h e r h u ib a n d . L ieutenant*C olonel BuïgojTte, -»hobO acquaintance 1 h ad aftcrrvards tlie pleaflure o f m aVing in th a t city, ao d am indeed in d eb ted to tliekr society fo r m any d e lig h tful hour». 'Fhere was also a niece o f RoTBcro A lp u e n tc s , who w as sa id to be <lying, an d two o th e r lad ies : one siropUrity itself, and the oilier

m ore rem aricalle fo r h e r l«?aiTty tbftn fo r th a t youthful quality.t i l eecured rooms a t Rpcvcs'a, an d ro ra a b e d s ta

tionary till th e eTcning, whcD 1 was jo in ed b y m y friend, S ir A rth u r C apel d e Broolcc, a y o ung m an o f apc icn t fam ily, and a t th a t tim e wcU icnowa in tho lite ra ry world by b is published t r a r o ls ; «ínce th a t period hi¿ h w la rg e ly added to hie repufarion by h is " J o u rn e y in to M orocw ,” a work exh ib iting an unusual la lo n t fo r obscTra- tion , w ith a quick appredA tion o f th e beautiful, an d g rea t general powers.

T h e view from m y windows ex tended o tc t L isbon , over th e r irc r , w ith ite num erous sh ip p in g , an d a th o u san d U tine n i t s g litte rin g o n its su rfacr, an d now lig h ted o p b y th e la s t raye o f th e sc ttio g sun : few ebjceta s trik e tlie beholder w ith g re a te r adm iration th a n these pecu liar aalls, w hich a rc exquisitely heautrfial w hen seen in p ro file ; an d w hen beheld in fron t re«cmblo a b u tte rfly perched on a d a rk ground, w ith u in g s oxj>ended- Soon afterw ards the m oon Rise, an d w e ram bled th ro u g h th e city b y a l ig h t peeulw ily favourable to every n a tu ra l o r artificial object th a t is g ra n d in its proporrions b u t defective in detail.

O n the 9 th o f A u g u st 1 w en t w ith M r. Porbe*, to whose k ind n eis I w as in d eb ted on a thousand

occasions, to see th e A queduct, is j x ^ a p ’u n « ,u a lied in boldocs* a o d g rau d e iir o f cffect by am- sim ilar loonum cnt o f « rt. I t supphcs T.iabon witli w a te r; it ttftver^cs a deep valley, n c a r th « beû lifu l v i l l a ^ o f A l» n t» r a ; a n d m I stood lieneath th e cen tre a rc t , an d gM cd upward», it s p e a r e d absolutely « tnpendous; u n fo rtu n a trij ', th e arches a rc n o t un ifo rm , som e arc in the G othic an d po in ted style, w h ik others a te senu- circular, a discrepancy wlijcb m ars th e gonerol cffect, >>utlr« th a n miKht b e supposod. A lthough th is aqueduct stre tches acto»« Ik e coun try for m any m\\cn un in terrup ted l7 > n o g rea t ex ten t o f u n h ro ic n

can U seen froio any particu la r position, o& account o f tlio ex trem e iocquslity o f th e ground,

T h a i e rcn in g At dinner 1 found m yself sea ted nen t to tb c C oun t d a P iienie, who w as ju s t nom i- n a te d SoCTctary fo r th e w ar departm ent, upon th e re tirem ent o f C oun t Saldauha, l i e possessed g re a t convew ational jiowers a n d considerable ta le n t fo r debate , and a t ll ia t tim e ac tcd w ith th e m oderate and w e ll- ju d j^ g body o f th e OoTisd- tutioufclists: an d here, fo r th e first tim e, I m et C oun t V illa F lo r, th e representaU ve o f a n ancien t honse, a m an o f h ig h intcgrH y, an d universally looked u p to b y the etaunch adheren ts o f the C h arte r. In Ih c b eg in n in g o f th e year h e h ad com m anded ihe C onstitu tional forces against the M isucU tes, a n d the m oat d istingu ished «icpe«B

ha<3 a tten d ed h is m ih tary exertions. O n tlie following; day I again m e t him a t Sir W illiain Clin- to o 's , »?here a h trge party was assem bled Io cclo- b ra le th e b irtli-day o f K in g Cxoorge th e F ourth , a t which en te rta in m en t our host jud ic io u slj contrived th a t tiie h ao d ahouhl p lay P o ilu g u cso airs d u rin g d inner. T h e ‘‘ B rid g e o f C reus," a piece o f m usic so called, after th e action g a in ed by C oun t V illa F lo r, an d coinposcd almoist on the field o f b a ttle , evidently excited som e cmotiun am ong th e chief», who Trere th e n p re s e n t and who liad fought on th a t day.

L a te LU th e evening I w andered over the GcnoraVs jjarden, la id ou t in th e o ld ta s te of s tra ig h t walks, parlerrcB, ib u n ta irs , a n d sta tues ; f ra g ra n t shm h* a W u n d e d ; creepers h u n g ox'er th e treUissOu in ■jiiofusion: th e scene w as peacefu l, an d l i t u p h v a sp lendid moon, 1 ro tum cd homo, a n d w tii'cd to r e s t ; b u t th e incessant aâultA o f the mosquitx» ban ished sloop. T liese vam pires found m e, unfortnnately , easy o f access, afl th e h o a t o f th e w eather h a d induced m e to keep e re rv d o o r-an d wiudow o p en : h ad thov only devoured me, I m ig h t liavo patien tly endu red th e infliction; h u t tlioy k e p t u p a p erp e tu a l v ra r-» n g in m y ears, an in su ltin g nc- com panim ert Io th e tr lium ao repast. A fte r some rootless hours, 1 rose and paced m y room. T h e view from m y window was loToly. 1 looked

C H - l O ^

u to n ü jc Xagiis, « il) ' »1» »hipping. from t>ic frigfttc to tlic li t tle latin« gall, th e opposite lall* eoftenc<l, yc t diatinctlv shown, by th e l‘uU moon. m A ihc g rea t c ity itiíclf buriod io d o rp i^cpow.

O n the 13lK o f A u ^ t 1 «laitted L isbon, and took tlie ro ad to C inU a, witli Colonel U m b c r t , o f th e G uards, a f iien d long know a a n d mncli « teem ed - In couôquenc« o f *undjy ingcniou* deUyR on the p a r t o t my domebtic, wo d id no t s ta r t t i l l fire o'clock in the m orning, too la to \ry »n hour a t loa^t io cominonci*, » t th a t »altry tim e o f yew , a jo u n iey in T o r tu g a l T h e T ^ # gleam ed tlirough tiic miata \^'lüch o verhang it*, snrfare, and exln b iled th a t freshness o f appearance which WfttoT sometimes aasum es, in sw itliern la titudes, a t a very early h o u r in th e m oraiug, as i f i t liad ju s t *<tariod from th o h a n d o f the C reator, an d were flowing, fo r th e first rime, a t h is loaiidatc. A« w proceedoil, th e country liad little intei-Cít; b u t loose stones scattorod in a ll directions, g»Tc it d w ild an d craggy apjw arance. A t len g th we reached Beinijca, a placo g rea tly r**sorted to b y the P ortuguese nobles, an d bur- roundod w ith orange groTo» an d cork w oods; and \re ll indeed th e ir deep green colour contrasted w ith th e dassU ng w hilfness o f the v illas o r q u in ta s ^h ich ad o ra th is beautifu l valley. W e passed tho paU ce o f gu<‘luz , a graceles»» edifice, situa ted in an ugly country, b u t famous a t th a t tim e as

n 3

t i c h ia d q u ti te rs o f tho di*a,ff<H;tcd p a r ty ; for th e re Ihc Mf>th<*r resided iti suUcn sta te ,lio ld iog n o c o m m u T i i c a i t i u n w ith t e r royal dau g t^ tor, * n d oiferiog u p ccoscWss p ra j^ w f^r tho re tu rn u f h e r ban ished »00 , an d fo r th e lentfâ* Jion o f th e anc ien t rule.

T ^ c scenery im pro red as w f approacbed fHntra, th o vegetation b ^ a m o m ore flourishing, lo o g avenues o f the silTcr p o pU j lined th e road , dxo hay an d the willow a tta in ed an iu tftensc a iic , an d the oak a n d e!ra intepspcrBcd w ith box overhung t}w fpftd an d form ed a delightfu l shade . A t leng th w t cntcTed C»ntra, placed a t the foot o f » hi)l o f ra th e r a s in g u la r character, for i ts »ummit cnw m ed w ith loos«? c rag s an d sh arp p in n a tl« offered a s trik in g varie ty to th e wiXMis th a t covered i ts b a s e , th en passin g the palacc, a fan - • taAtic an d irreg u lar w lifkc, we s to p p ed a t the I rk J i in n . w here 1 found a h o s t o f m iliU ry frim d s an d som e E n g lish new spapers, whieli informed m e th a t ! b a d le ft E n g la n d . A fte r b p ca lft« t we w alked th ro u g h th e ga rd en s o f th e M arquis dc Pom bal. tru ly delightfiil from th e ir am ple shade an d lu x u rian t v eg e ta tio n ; b u t in P o rtu g a l little « ire ishefetowod on y ian ts when b eau ty » their sole reiom niecdation, an d no a tten tio n is p a id to distinctions o f «pecies. T h e clim ate is th e only i ^ Q t there , m an lends no as»staD ec in producing graceful eom bioati« i* ; b u t a t G ib ra lta r, where

CH. I . ] UIGliW AT P0 6 BERY. L I

b o d i Íiniíc, a b arren lo ck i* concerted in to an in jw u m . W alk s are. how erer, out tliro u g b th e gardens o f C in tra , a jjd ru itic »eats a re placed u n d er tHc ahfide o f ancien t cbestniit* an d by th e side o f m urm uring fcm nt^na, while th e borders a re filled w ith orange*, lem ons, an d fru it trees o f OTcrj* ik w rrp tio ii: th e s ig h t a n d sound o f w ater is inesprCBsibly grateful, an d th e g enera l verdure TOost refresh ing to an eye fa tigued b y Ib e glare o f L isbon, an d b y tb e p a rch ed appearance o f its h ills. A t every opening in the wood, th e Mooriflh c M tk an d convent o f ‘ O ur L a d y o f th e R ovk’ w ere seen ii> varied point* o f view, frow ning from tb e ir a iry height* upon the valley below, which lay g litte rin g in l i o sun, sp rink led w ith Duwberless qu in tas, aonse fully revealed, others h a lf b u rie d in tb e *hade o f th e ir o range groves. T h e system o f irriga tion practiiK'd in tho se p a rts o f S pain which have been occupied till a la te p erio d b y th e M oort, prcvaite Ik t c a lso ; the b o rd ers are in tersec ted a n d w atered b y h ttlc c*nab , an d the e a r th is heaped round th e orange trcoa, so 'A8 to form a so rt o f cisterVi b y which mearns the roo ts a re always k e p t p len tifu llj rmoistened.

W e re tu rn e d to our in n an d d ined w ith <v p iT ty o f roUitary m en, am ongst whom wa« a y o ung officer who h a d b een seised a few day* before b y some m ounted W ghw aym cr, robbed.

airip p fd , an d le f t w itli h is lid n J j tÌ4.*d b^luncl h im : from tliis dilem m a lie ox tilcal^d h im self Tnth som e difGcully, an d rc tu n ie d in very dolefu l p lig h t to 1 / i s b o D , ■wlierc some old women who saw him ]>aoing th e stree ts in lhÌH p itiab le deficiency o f a ttire rem ark ed ‘ E ^ te F idalgo faz pen itencia* ,’ In the evening we wandci*cd th ro u g h ù ie P en a V erde gardcnti to the spot w here th e h ea rt o f Jo lm d e C astro is in terred . T h e periw inkle an d w ild strawfceiTy covered tiie ground , and the cork tree clothed w ith ivy, and th e g igantic Blone*pino fo n aed a dense canopy overhead. A deligh tfu l m ir tu re o f no rth ern and sou thern vegetation is found in m anv p a rts 'of PortagftL an d esptcially a t C in tra , w here p lants peculiar to th e south o f E u rope , an d even some tJiat have b een transjK trted iro in tlie Madeivac, grow luxurian tly under th e s lia Je o f tlie B ritish oak. C in tra resem bles a beau tifu l picture net in a w orthless fram e : w henever the eye rests on the towD an d i ts im m ediate iieigKliourLood th e scenery is unrivalled, b u t th e d is ta n t lan d scape is generally fla t an d un in teresting . T h^ day wau declining ; an d as tb e h e a t liad been intenfle, I e rp ec ted to see th e snn sin k '¡ n one unclouded bluxe o f liv ing l ig h t/ b u t its p a rtin g splendours were concealed b y a dense m ist h s in g from the ocean. T h e re is a peculiar b eau ty o f

" TUi Fidalfo it y«a&n<*.

sunset, pi-obab))* vininott'n to countries l>oi*dcrbg upon the A tlan tic , a a d p e rh ap s confined to the sL o r« o f tlie b lue Mu<iit<n,Tant'au ; 1 m t'an th a t exquisite gradalioD o f colouring, w here the eafron m ingles im pci'ccptibly w ilk the rose, an d th e rose l in t m elts in to the purp le , $\i extrem ely b rig h t, ye t so delicate as lo seem alm ost tran sp aren t. F rom the P e n a V erde g a rd en s we w ent to th e M arialva p ^ c c .

I n th e course o f th e day the In fan ta lU^gCQt an d h e r sÌNtcrs were continually r id in g ou t o f tJie l o w o a n d ag&in I'efum ing to th e palace, m ounted on donlccys, an d u n a tten d ed by an y lady , b u t cscorted b y a body o f ancicn t gentlem en on h o r^h ack . A pea l general from a ll th e bells o f C iu tra regu larly announced th e ir depart ui’e from the town an d th e ir re-entry , an d collected a nerer-falling crowd to w itness th e ir progress, I ffllt considerable in te rest in th e fate o f these young Princessus, which was th e n w rap t in doub t an d gloom.

O n th e 14th o f A n g u st I rode w ith m y friend L am b ert fo r some luile:^ acros'j h ills clothed with h ea th an d dw arf oak, an d a t len g th arrived a t the C ork convent, a bu ild ing ilU constructed, b u t well p laced a t the fuot o f a rlchly-w oodad h ill ; a paved w alk uverliung with ilno cork trees leads to Ih e entrance, which is cuiiouely ornam ented w ith shell*work. H e re I-am b ert ru n jj a peal

b o th Joud an d lo n g ; th e bell-ropo, w hirh , like Gloatei'B iirtn, was shrivelled a n d con tracted to h a lf iU o rig ioal le n g th > perfo rm ed i ts d u ty &lu|t^khly, an d fo r som e tim e n o w spoose was vo ted oecessary to Lis vigorous exertions. A t len g th a boy appeared , an d le d ue th ro u g h a cou rt fu ll o f hydraagcftd an d fuchtJas in to a w retched ap artm en t colled th e refectory; l>enches, door«, an d roofs, w ere all constructed o f cork, and *omcLunes th e c rag in Its n a tive s ta te form ed p a r t o f the wall. H e re , w hile wc fea s ted on broftd an d wine, y oung H opefu l to b l u s th a t, aJraid o f b c h ig e r lis te d fo r th e a m y , ho h ad tak en re fu g e in th e convent, an d woefully h e com plaincd o f th e jion-eristence o f b ra e k f^ ts an d th e scan ty supp ly o f d rie d fe h a t dinner. T h e rosem ary grow s luxurian tly in th e gardens above, w here wo e n jo ^ d a fine view o f Colarcs em bosom ed in wood, an d th e n descended in to tlie m iseraW e cave, where

' ITonotiu loD)( dl2 dwll.A a d b e p e d h> » < n t h M T im b y & k « I L ’

T h e v ineyards n ear Colarec a re sm all an d so m uch d iv ided b y sto n e walls, th a t the country TescmUes » l ^ g o garden sp lit in to an infinite num ber o f p a rte rre s . A s we approached the rock o f L b b o n , h a if the popu la tion o f a n e ig h bouring villag« p o u red o u t to m ee t u s , anxious to perform th e far-famod fe a t o f descending tho

» t« p W b cn we b a d nearly j ^ h e d th e point, th e ro a r o f tlie A tlan tic , U e « d from an immcDse d ep th belDW. suddenly broke upon us. T h e Mck, ft s trik in g landm ark to sh ip s a t sea, i* uhoa t tw o h u n d re d fe e t i n he ig h t, an d elants to the ed g e in a gtwvt un iform shee t o f Oark-coloured »tone, dow n w hich o u r hfiroes descended, rare- ftxUy balancing th o n s e b e s w v lt th e ir h a n d s ; & f t a t w hich e « ly a n d long-continxied h a b it can alone cnablo them to perform successfully , a frigh tfu l sigh t, as th e least slip wogld have inevitab ly p roved f e ta l ; y e t th e dcsccnt cannot l>c very difficnit, as nu tnhers accom plished it, nor can it b e a tten d ed w ith m uch personal riak, as no accident h a d th e n o cn irrcd for som e years. T h » e feats hav ing terminatt?d w ithout th e frae* turti o f any adventurous Bkuil, th e re rose a clam our g re a t o f m en a n d boys, contending for th e spoil >Thich we ^ « tr ib u te d w ith U udab lo

im partiality .W o th e n d«sc;eTided the b ill an d followed a

p a th lead ing to th e sm all hay o f Colares, a p ic tu resque sp o t l i ttle know n to tlie world, from %rhich i t is effectually sh u t ou t by h u g e black basaltic rocks o f th e b o ldest character. H e re we found th e A tlan tic , ev er restless o n th is coast, brealuD g on a fine b ed o f band, an d dashiflg its foam over la rg e m asses o f d i^ o in te d crag . T his w as a scenc peo jlia rly su ited to m y own taa tc .

an d w u m de«d calculated to impro&s aity beholder, from the co n trast i t p re sen ted to the surrounding fcenery. H ero a ll was dark , bloak, an d savage ; w hdc o n th o road to Colarcs n a tu re seem ed to exhau&t ilficif in th e cn<Ucse varie ty au d extrcnic beaut)' o f tb c vcg;ctation: th e re th e olive, the w ild oliTe, th e a rb u tu s im m ensely h igh , th e tu lip , tiic p lane, &nd th e g igan tic Btoue>pinc environed u s ; we ^>as8ed the cork tre e cvcrywhei'e bend ing over the ro ad in tho m ost fantastic eliapes, w ith fern grow log on its h u g e Crunks, aiid m isletoe bangicig profusely from its brauchcs; jasm ines, spark ling w itli th e ir snowy blossoms, lo ad t'd the a i i w ith th e ir p e ifu n io ; and various k in d s o f creopcTK overran the trees, oppressed them w itli th e ir ra n k luxuriance, an ti sometimes covered an d en tire ly concoaled tlie ii foliage. \V*e found th o oak in abundance j o range an d lemon groves w ere m ixed w ith In d ia n coi*n a» d water« m elon, f ru it trees o f every descrip tion lined the roPpd, an d th e vine, no t topped an d tra in ed as in Vratice, b u t h u n g over trellis-w ork, a|q>carcd no lo n g er a form al h u t a grarefiil p lan t. W e now dism issed ou r guide, a lad a ^ j^ re n tty fifteen years o f ag e , whom we liad found bv* chance on the hills. T h e general expression o f h is countenance was sinister, h is com pleôii a lm ost o f th e M u la tto colour, h is c'ês were black as je t, an d flashed w ith in telligence. A m o n g these

mountainft t h e people are in T a r ia b ly d a rk ; an d I fiometiiLCfl o h s v n c d a n rg ro cas»t o f foalarc, which i D d i c a l e d th e ir forojcr in te rw u rse w ith B razil. Friiquentl)’ wc m e t tbc rea l negro.

O n th e Voth o f A ug tis t I w ent w illi J jim b e rt to th e M arialva palace, w}icre tb e fam ous conTcn* tion was signed. I t now b c l f > n g « to th e D u k e do U Focns. T h e garden is bcautifu], an d f>»erc is a profusion o f w ater. O n th e slaircaiw we niot th e i i ttle dauglit^T o f tbc D uke, a p re tty child ab o u t e ig h t o r te n yeaj*« o f age, w ith d a rk b u t soft an d exprebsivo eyes. S h e show ed ua a j*apcr which contained some w ritten sentences in K nglish , an d re a d tlk«m fluently . W e after* war<is en te red an ap a rtm en t, w hw e some priests were b reakfasting w ith o lhcr persons, a ttire d in b k c k . p robab ly dcpcndcTitfi o f th e D u k e ; fo r in P o rtu g a l, as in Spain, w hen individuals have once bccocnc eonnccted w ith th e {jreat, they , and* som etim es tlic lr desceodants, continue to reside u n d er th e ir palron*a roo f from generation to generation. T h is ex trem e lib e ra lltv tow ards old domceUcs an d dependen t friends occasionally involves th e noblea in g re a t jw cuoiary cmbar* nusm entn . H ow ever adverse to tb e maxim s of political economy, tliis prAclicc reflects the hi^besC honour on th e ir m oral feelings, an d could only o:siBt am ong a geneioua people. B efore we I d l tb e palace a curious ecene took place. O no o f the

sable gcDtloDiGD whom wc h a d p rcrioualy seen, addressing u s in the fiow lsg st^'le n h ich dittm* g c ijh c s th e P o rtu g u ese o f all cltuweu, profTcrcd u s every d v i l i l j . T h e M ajvr dom o u iiiw iunate ly D tm cd him as the writiBg*masU!r; a deslgnatioa n b id i ja r re d liugcly on th e scholastic c«rs, an d produced a ^ a ^ h fu l eL ullidoa o f offended d i^- nily . “ M oi M ftitrc d 'ec ritu re 1” h e excLumed, ia a w ic e a n d w ith an e j e th a t would li»ve anTuhi* la ted & nj person o f inferior consideration to a M ajo r dorno In a ducal p a lace; ‘‘ becau»e 1 Imow Tnort th a n himself, and som etim es stu d y wiiL tlu9 D uke, th is m an o f narrow in te llec t eolls m e a w riting-m aster!" W e o f course aesuzncd eoun* teoances incredulous o f the he iso u s a—ertiw i> an d m ade o u r e x it w ith bow s o f a aup crla tirc ly TOpoctful le c g lh O n o u r re tu rn to th e inn we saw a curious sp ed u ien o f th e m ode o f tra* veiling som etim es adop ted b y tb e P o rtuguese gentry. A p a ir o f oxen w ere a tta ch ed to a lum berin g vehicle d estined to c o q tc ; th e illustrious 33ona — and h e r progeny to th e capital, while ih c coachm an, a ttire d Id a sh o rt ja c k e t a n d w e e in g th o I j ^ a d C aatilian h a t, m arched hnm bly b y

^thcir aide.W e rode on to M ont«crrat, th e reoiaios o f a

villa, b u ilt b y M r. B cckfo td inaov years ago. T h e ru inous s ta te o f th a t fa iry dw elling w as n o ' tk c d by L o rd B yron in 1909, an d eincc th a t tim e

i t has l>ecomc ®liU m ore desolate. T h e toof, thxm eotirc, h as since very jnuch ik lle a in , a n d the ffalU are in rra n y parta n heap o f ruin». T k e en trance opens in to an oeU gonal h&ll, te rm inated b y A circular apartm en t, which looka OYcr a len g th en ed flat to th e d is tan t b rc a ic rs . T here i t ftlso th e d ie ll rem ain ing o f a fine apartm ent, perhaps the lib rary , which com m ands as n c h a view o f fo rest sccaery as csn v e i l b e concciTcd. T h e g enera l e fíe tl o f th e ex terio r is good, oí:- eep t th o h ig h s la n tio g roofe, which, th o u g h in correct ta s te , a re somowh&t unpU auing. F u rth e r on we »»w th o n u n s o f a ram b ling house, to which a d a rk sto ry is a tta c h e d ; for a y o u a g man is there »aid to have m urdered hí£ e lder b ro ther u n d er circum stances o f pccul>ar horror.

O n o n r re tu rn to C iotrft we dined a t th o honsc o f the Swedish M inister, M onsieur de iC u tz a u . I n the evening a tu m u lt o f bells announced the approach o f th e Infanta. K e g e n t ; an d ft'j wo were w alk ing u n th e garden terrace sh e rccogn lied M ftdamc d e K an tzau w ith a sw eetness o f expression th a t well sup p lied the place o f positive beau ty . l i e r R oyal H ighness an d D o n a A nna ro d e b y in com plete u n ifo rm : a funny costuxoe m eth o u g h t for rcg&l dam es, b u t such is the e tiq u e tte p rescribed <m ceHain days. D o n a M arta wa» no t o f th e p ^ rty , an d Romo o f th e lig h tly d»* posed a ltr ih u te d h e r royal HighDOSs's absence to

a facetious d ispu te supposed to have a g ita te d the c«u rt circle, l o ib is dibcussion th e Princcss M aria is said to has'c m ain tained tlxat so m uch m ilitary }>omp Uttlo su ited to the huiuhle donkey on whiuh i t was destined to b e ex h ib ite d ; however, less ingenious, b u t p c iliap s rooi'e veracious chrooitkT» record th a t h er ro )a l H lg h - ae»s*s ahscDce was solely a ttr ib u ta b le to w ao t o f p unc tua lity on t3\c p a r t o f th e cou rt tailor.

H a t in g re tu rn ed to the in n I w aited socae tim e for a friend, who ha<l prom ised to introduco m e to M adam e B orrii, and w;*s <]uietly Kctaking; m yself io re s t, w heu th e defau lter arrived. T h e cause o f h is delay com ical enough. T h oP ortuguese frcqueolly ad o p t th e ch ildren o f o ther }>erscas, educate them , an d som etim es p ro m ote th e ir fu tu re fortum is. T h e In fa n ta R egen t, possessing tlie na tional ta^tc . ap p lied to an Ir ish woman, who forthw ith accom m odated h er royal llighnesA w ith h er own dau g h te r, a th riv ing young g ir l two years o f age. T b e agreem ent wde deli« h e ra te ly mado» tm d the a rtic le io question sold an d delivered. T h e m other, however, whoso QDtions oonccr)\ing th e tran sfe r o f p ro p erty were n o t peculiarly cleai’, re lu m ed afttT ;i sho rt tim e, an d wL^hed to en t« r again in to po8t>es»ion ; to thi* th e In fan ta natu ra lly dem urred, an d such a tu m u lt o f Iri^h ejacu latioo ensued, as h a d p ro bably never l>efbrc a saa ik d the ears o f any rovai

Perstm age, I n th is em ergency m y friend was requested to m Dtcli h is m ilitary person to the palace, where h o found o u r hero ine o f the F in c ra ld la le fiercely cxpoat\i]Ating am id ft ho«t o f h u g e b lack B rasilian women, who were scrcam ing in chorus around h rr- Y e t n o lh ii^ daun ted was th o dame. “ B y JaRus, no odc shall p a r t mo an d m y child," w as still tlie burden o f h er bong. A golden a rgum en t a t len g th in* duced h er to m itiga te such unreasonable claims, a n d a salisfactory tre a ty o f pcaee was concluded.

w as allowed to re ta in h er ch ild d u rin g th a t n ig h t, and was p rov ided w ith good lodging», a good supper, an d a sentinel a t h er door, to p re v en t c ith e r warlike o r ftig itive proceedings. I apfom panied m y friend in th e evening to hor room : she w as th en in the lughe^t good-hum our, an d g rea tly fla tte red b y the notice tak en o f h er b lue-iy ed cbild. O n tlie following m orn ing he conducted th e little g irl to th o palace, aecording to agreem ent, wliilo the m other w as deposited on a donkey and pcaceably removed.

O n th e &Uowiog m orn ing I w ent to th e p a lao e ; b u t aa i t WQs still occupied by th e C ourt I coaid only sue th e exterior, which is irregu lar, and evidently th e w ork o f different periods, b u t p a r t of th e w alls an d som e o f th e windows are decidedly M oorisli. Jo in e d b y J-am bert, I afterw ards asccnded th e h ill lead ing to the house o f ‘ O a r

I ju ly o f W oe,’ a< Xôrd B yron ra th e r p o e iic a llj th a n j u f t l j d en ig ra te s th e house o f ‘ O u r L a d j of th e Boch»’ >vhich ociûpics a e trik iag position on tJie su m un t o f th e m ountain, an d is eucroundttd b j sh a tte red cr&gs, an d io su la ied inai^scs, r c ry i«m arkablc in a n a titra l p o in t o f ricw ,

“ SNtdi M ea ig h t ow m b u rl'd ,Z W f n i ^ s v a t i a t u i « ¿ flis r V M ld."

T h e convent h a s n o beauty» b u t is curious and evidently a n d c n t, an d ihu g a lk n o e c n d rd in g the in n e r to u r t a r e in M oorish ta s te . T h u how iing o f (h e w ind ia hoard w ithout iDtennissioii round th * conven t wails ; th a t m ournful a c d u n ra iy in g sound alone disturbe tb c fdlenee o f a hab ita tion raiwod h ig h ahoTC th e busy iisu n ts o f mon, and ^ ip a r rn tly bey o n d th e re a d i o f hum&n carc- F ro m hence we scram bled u p a m g g e d p a th to th e M oorish caatJe, and ag a in descending m ounted c u r m ules an d reg a in ed th e inn .

I n th e cTcning I accom panied a friend to a p a r ty a£ th e houM o f a P o rtuguese U d y : she h ad tw o daughters, th e e ld e rt a p re ttj ' person w ith p leasiiig m anners an d extxcmely weli informed, t i e yffiiDgebt a very decidod beau ty . T h e party w ere p lay in g a t b lind m an 's b u ff w hen I en te red ; a gam e in which, a s i t is p layed in P ortngfd , aucccse depends upon th e ra p id recognitioD o f d ifferent persona b y th e ir voice«. B eing immo- d ialeiy req u ired to tîkc a p a rt, I wa« bTindfolded

a a d placed in th o contre ol' th e ring . I ü r s t hcnr- c w r , pleaded igooranoc o f o w ty individuJil pre- wnC ; upQTi w hich th e Bvely b c a a ty led m e roim d th e circlo, hastily nam ing e w ry person ; an ingo- l u o n s operation which d id Qoi m uch BMist m e. i s 1 could no t b ear tn m ind a volley o f nam es «hich 1 bad never he&rd before : bo«*CTcr, tru s tin g to clmnce, I began m y career, a n d soon touched a lad y w ith th e w&nd. 1 DA)ccd tb c reg tila r quee* tion, an d was answ ered in tb e feigned voice as regu larly abeumod. “ W hom have jv u fouodf" w as tlie g enera l cry. I pauaod— “ W ell, b u t m ention nomo o n e ; th e gam o is a t a staod*stiU:“ b u t I could spcciiy no cmo. I looked stupid , and m y new irien d s probab ly th o u g h t m e p ro fo u n d ^ so ; a t len g th , b y a prodigious exertion I was delivered o f a nam e, b\U i t d id n o t onligbten the p a rty ; an d I afterw ards discovered th a t t hg nam e 1 h ad g iven n'as a com pound o f tw o o r th ree o thers, wliich h a d bccomo m ost ogrogiously m ixed u p in m y puzzled b ra io . Thiy a ttem p t having p roved unsucôssfol, I cxclaimod, “ L a ilamo qui e s t habillée on notr.” M ais nous sommes to u te s habillées en no ir,” was th e perp lex ing reply . A t len g th I naraed th e o ldest Domotsello o f th e h o iu e . “ N o , i t is n o t ; i t is C -— said th e yoim g beau ty , nam in g he rse lf in a lively to n e o f m ock repruacli, perhaps a little displeased th a t so soft a voice onco h ea rd should no t bo

bninediatcly W c p layed several otHorgam es. E v e ry latly wag ri“quircd to sig li for h pa rticu la r jfeuUcmaTt, who in tu rn was csdlcd upon to sig h Ib r a laHy, and grnoraU y felt lM)uudio g ra titu d e to rooui)i for h er who b ad inourtied fo r biiu. T b i* reciprocal g rie f w as very d iverting- A s l u i ^ t natu i'a lly b e expceted . a sigli is rare ly bestow ed on th e rea l object o f tiie m ou rn ers affocrion. So closed au cvenin}' of u n in te rru p ted good*hum our; tlie guuuiiie polite* jje*8 I ’o rtuguese socicty p rev en ts tlie occur- re ace o f those l i ttle tnadvorlcncics which are so a p t iD o ther countrios to ja r upon th e fecliugs o f individuals, an d b reak in npon th e harm ony o f sucb am uaem cata. O n the foUowing day I icp a ra lo d from my friend l«am bort w ith re g ie t, an d re tu rn ed to Lisbon

C H A P T E R II .

B o a d t o M i f r u — C o n r c n « o f M a fn * — C o o v i n t o f A J c * b « . ,o — M o -

o a j ) i « f ty a w o . « o n s i ^ r e d — T h * b n * o f D o n ? » d r «S f t d l o e i d a C M t r o — ? o U > x » o ( t 1iv M u u k > - ^ T K » i i i o d ^ l h t b i t i

• ^ C t I o o a i j ’ E a a ^ o i f tc t a e e o f t h « C c a r e n t v f A l t \ j b ( ; c t * ^ C n n t e a t o f a t O i t B b r a - 'B ^ g t o f n p u r s u e d a t t h e U u l*

v « , „ ( j _ T Q » O s r d a a o f T e a r » — U c l& aeh 4 > ly C u n v e a t « f i b i C w m e l i t e x ^ ^ p a m s K n n iTifilirff H ig tn r;* o f t h e b e s u l l f u l B c i J o

o f O p o r t o ~ A iT i * & l » t O p o r to k

I QUITTED L isbon on tlxc 2 1 th o f A ugusf, and tool: tlio lo a d to O porto , b u t d id a o t c o m c n t D c o

m y joum oy till la te in th e evening, a« ray sin*vant A ntonio was d i^nclined to ra p id movcmontb. an d m y m uieteer vo ted puncU iality an u im ecessarj Tirtue. T lie owner o f tb c m ules escorted u s ££ far as the? wails c>f th e city, areord ing to tb o usual etiquette . H o b a d accomnioditted m e with an anim al w hich stum bled bo gsiilantiy to tlio r i s h t a n d to tlie le ft, th a t feeling m y noek »a decided jeopardy, I de term ined to Bend b c r back on m y arrival a t V e le i. 'J’h e coun try w as dull, an d abounded in windmlUs and oUtc», T h e p re m atu re efFcct o f tb e h e a l on th o dedduous trees was strong ly m arked. T h e poplars h ad snfTnred g re a tly ; some were a ltogether strip iied o f Ihcir leaves, an d tb e foliage was everywhere d ian g in g its colour. K ven a t C in tra . w here tb e a ir is

'

coTnporattvclj covl, th e a u tu m n ^ tiu U v e re &tcal- iu g OTcr tHc woods, a a d tho pa th s , strew ed with K a r an d yellow leaves, exhib ited th e b rijflit bu t mocTDiul beau ty o f an E n g li ih Octolwr. T h è in a a t V elez w as com fortless enough : cat«^ dogs, an d pigeons w aodered ab o u t (h e suppor-t« l4c, in h u n g ry com petition fo r th o good th ings th a t were n o t ; [Mgs, g ru n tm g a t the door, th jca tcn ed to jo in th e alliance ; a n d th e on1j article o f prom ise, sorac s a lt was ]>ounced upon b j an iJitrepid putts. S n to reo lo g y m ig h t have b een s tu d ied to pciTec- tio u in th is ap a rtm en t ; a n d as i ts m inu te varieties b an ished ô cp . I eontm ued to g asc on sundry p ic tu res o f h e ll an d flam ing sinners, eT iden tl; in - t<mdcd to ffppa! tb c souls o f walicful bcroiies.

O n th e 2 5 th o f A u j^ s t I rode t l i ro u f^ a b leak b n t n o t rtnp lcasant ooantfy to M afra. T h e conv en t an d palace u n ited constitu te %d im m ense p ile o f bu ild in g , which excite» adm iration ra lho r from i ts vast ex ten t th an from any a rd u tee tu ra l m erits. I t is b u ilt on th e m odel o f th e E scurial, an d form s a quadrangle , m easuring ”6 0 feet from e a s t to w est, a n d 670 feet from n o rtb to south. Tlê church is situa ted in Ih e cen tre , an d th ree Irandrod cells a re p laced beliind th e c b ^ ; th e palace, in w h k h S ir K dw ard B lakeney h ad apartm en t« , a s d w here ho rooeivcd tnc w ith th e u tm o st hosprtalrty, m ig h t p e rh ap s contain^ w ithout incxmrenience, all th e courts o f E u rope . T h e

C H , I I . j C O N V E N T O P H A » * L A . 2 7

U ierm om sler h&d riveo lo m ore th a n 90*, tn d U is dUficult lo c í « c e i v e th e lu n u 'y o f r e i r ^ c io g from to ch in ío leraU e h e a t to th e refW shing tem peratu re o f Ú10 coov€nt w hich qm b u ilt of stoDC, u id are lii^h , wido, dark , an d a p p a re n tlj is - tenm naU e. W ith in ÜK«e massiTe walls th e Hue- tu a tio a i o f th e ex ternal atm c^phere ar« nover f e l t i an d w e l y iiu lcod d o ajiy cx teroal souiid« p ierce th rough those m i|;h ty liarricrs. A t a ca«e < m en t which ov«k»okod a p n rtt) b u t ncglocted g a rd en , th o hcdy fa th e rs k e p t d p a eorduo o f ühservadon w hen f irs t o u r troops arrived, aud w ere g rea tly discom posed a t th e occurrence o f any p e tty delinquencies. T h e occasional c ^ t - m e a t o f an o ld shoe £K>m n opposite «lAduw appeared to con slita te th e m axim um o f B ritish aggression, a n d lu d io v u s appealij wero m ade to th e G eneral upon these octiiaions- S ir E dw ard restra in ed these dangerous infrÍDgcmentH ^coci* v e n ta a lr ig li te ; an d h is judieiou»* a itcn tio n to th e ir feelings coiaplelely won th e hearts o f the reverend plainüiTs; indeed i t « a s g ra tify ing to h e w the praises everwhcre lavished on o u r troops, even b y persons th e m ost © i^ s u d to the prÍBciple« which b ro u g h t them to th e countiy . T h e monks showed u s th e refectory, a spacious apartm ent, an d th e h h n r j . well s to red wiLk books. H av ing sp e n t som e tim e ^ e e a U y w ith m y old scho<J- fellows, H en ry U p to n an d A ugustu s E llis , i to c4

c 2

J O t’K M iY T O O PO R Tí). [ c 'H . 11.

leave o f S ir E d w a rd B laJicnej. I ^ tJ W ilUaia P a u lc tt k ind ly gave m e le tter» for Coimfera, wLert h e h ad epcnt som e tim e, aod inou n tiü g hi* sie«d, a beautifu l iingH sh m are, »h<iwed m e th e »hortoflt way to T o rres V ediiis, across a w ild h e a th tract.

A s I ro d e a long tltc aide o f a pine-POVf*rr*d liill. « gcQtlem an p arsed me, a tten d ed b y tw o survaols, tìne o f whoiCk carried a b a to n a t hÍB *ide, a proof th a t h is m aste r was a person o f d istinction . T h è p e w a n ts in tliis p a r t o f th e country universally carry a lo n g pole, considerably h ig h e r th an tbeir heads, a n d sometime* lip p ed w ith lead , winch ren d ers i t a fyrinidablo in stru m en t o f a lta c k ; assistod b y these weajxina only, a k n o t o f |>easan ts is isXd to have ditomountííd a la rge p a rty of F re n c h cavalry, d u rin g th e p en insu la r war ; bu t th ey Mcldom m olest travellers, an d indeed high»* ay robberies a re b y n o m eans frequen t in Portugal, ex cep t in A len tc jo . T h e in n a t Torrew V cdras was a g rea t im provem ent o d o u i la s t resting-place. T h e m uleteer had n o t arrived a t a la te ho u r on the Ibllowing m orning, a degree o f negligencc which su rp rised m e, as th e natives consider any exposu re to th e sun , d u rin g th e sum m er m onths, im pruden t a fte r th e early ho u r o f n ine. 1 began to suspect th a t m y friend h ad been waylaid, of, proToptcd by an a rd en t th irs t fo r knowledge, had h im se lf inspected m y portm an teau , in w h id i case I was well aware th a t any tastefu l appropriations

C H , I I . ] T 0 6 R I J 9 T K r U A ? . 2 9

would have been foUowed l>y a s«cs& ion to th e pwiuntain« : 60 fo rlh I issued , in n o placablc tnood, taV ing tho ro ad to M sfra , an d s p jin g anxiously around to discover som e rem o an ts o f % tru n k or a m uleteer. I had , liowevor. m ade li ttle progrchs before 1 m e t th o deserter, who assured mo th a t ho h a d unaccountably lo i t Id s w ay; b u t, influenced by a prodigious zeal in m y sc'rvice, h ad l-toen toili-ng a l l n ig h t to reg a in it. H i t account was tra e in th e m aiu , b u t h o p ru d en lly ab»Uino<i from acy alluaiou to certa in libations, the roa^ causL* o f h is cireuitoua pi'oeecdings.

T o n eb V odraa is a celohrated p o in t on th a t s trong Hue o f n a tu ra l defence whiclx was so ably niaiiitaiued b y th e D u k e o f W elling ton . S tandin g on these h e igh ts 1 was enab led to form some conooption o f tlie system pursued , b u t a>uld by no moane com m and the ou tire range o f m ilitary powitloDS. I con tinued m y journey th ro u g h a succession o f pine*fi)rests, varied octasionaHy by open spaces covered w ith hoath. In th e neigh- bourhf^d o f l i s b o n th e lu lls cojiHi&t principally «►f lim r*tone, n ear M afra o f b a sa lt oovoied with lim estone; b u t we «ow en te red on a t»andy region. I n con>cquence, the character o f the vogetstion changcd ; the A rU itua onodo. th e P h illy rea , and the M jric a faya, o r ga le o f M w loira, so ab u n d an t pear C in tra , were oxehanged for flg-frees o f an immense grov^th, an d a la rg e si'ocies o f cane,— a

p U b t whii-h bfta a th irk stem , resem bling t)i« aug»r*caiie. an d is u scil in sup p o rtin g the rrno*. T h e b lack a n t sw arm ed am ong the fir woods, yd* low bu tterflies flu ttered over the p la in in g ay profusion, an d dogs o f oxquiHito taate jjro w ^d ftround tb e vineyards, an d g azed w ith ho|>elciis f j e s on th a t forlndden paradise. T h ^ are passionate^ly fond o f grapes, an d sticks purpoaely a tta ch ed to tb c ir collars p rev en t th e ir entrance is to th e vine* yards. T bia Bacchanalian propensity 19, in a g rea t m easure, the can so o f th a t am aaing influx o f dogs in to L isbon d u rin g th e sum m er m o n th s ; for w hen th e grape b eg in s to rip en , the proprie tors o f th e vineyards on th e opposite coaiit Jay v io lent hands on th e can ine sporie i, an d rtiip them oif to th e capital. T here , p row bng aboirt in h n rg ry groups, th ey become o f re a l use in c leansing the Streets o f th a t de testab le filth w hich would nthcr- wi»e accum ulate to an in to lerable extent, an d m ig h t l» e e d a pestilence. In tb is rcspeci the s trong n w th e rly gales are also valuab le aoxiJia- rics.

1 b a ited m y horse a t a sm all an d p ietuw aquc irm : th e ceilings were peaJced, an d th e floor abounded in cracks, judiciouel v calculated io adm it a cliuerm g view o f th e culinary processes below. T h e peasan try n o w here m anifested any unfriendly fce liog tow ards m e : as I p arsed th e v illages tho wom en m ade somo sligh t salotaticFn, an d the m en

in v a rk b lj rose a n d bowed. L s«w some fiuc old iowfTs. an d a q u in ta o f e x te n t; th e fam ily a rn » . carved in stone h ig h above tb c door, sbowed th a t th e p rop rie to r was o f noble b ir th . I dev iated from m y ro ad to see Ovidos, a p k tu re sq n e town

imioen»c an tiqu ity , »till ceU inlng, in a g rea t d ^ f c c , ii« Moorif>h character. A fioe e re iu u g su n Ut n p she walls ^ an o ld S ^ « n i e c a s t^ , upc« which a boy w as etaadiD g, an d pU y in g BMct sweetly on th e flageo le t T h e sandstone b ad MW d isap p ea red ; th e >11« over which we passed w tfc composed o f lim estone, an d were in eonae- qucnce corered w ith a richer an d loero varied vegetation.

I reached C aldas a t five o 'c ^ i« an u n in te restin g town, la tte rly tho TOdort o f the Courts on aeedont o f ita m ineral h a t l is ; a n d in th& eren in g was \ i s i te d b y a gentlem an, who wfte lively attd c0mmucicatiTC, an d an im ated w itli a furious zeal fu r liberty.

1 renew«?d m y jo u rn ey over lu lls o f m ingled h ea th an d oak, on the m orning u f tb e 27 th . T ra - v e lb ag a t th is b c m in g tim e u f th e year is o n ij agreeable d u rin g th e firs t an d la s t hours o f ligh t. T h e su n h ad scarcely risen w hen 1 m ounted m y h o rse ; tho dlutiint suund o f th e convent bells eanxc p lcasandy on th e biêes«; th e b ird s were s in ^ n g , an d all natOTC seem ed to rejoice : b u t a t noou m an an d bea»t were equoUy su bdued b y tke

in to lerable fie rr^cfis of* th e hea t ; the peasunU Wrrc eom polled to sus|>end iL eir labours ; thO c a ttle look re fu g e in th e shady th icket ; no t a b ird flapped its M'eciry w ing ; n o t an io ^ c t crq^t a loog tho ground, b u t an unbroken an d universAl bilencü prrvftded tfie fields, which h ad so la te ly teem ed w ith cvoi’y variety o f active liíé. H ere , 08 in o ther p a r ts o f th e country, th e heatlx and ju n ip e r h ad been doaignedly b u rn t to produce y oung fodder for cattle . T h e Se^Tatula arvcnsls, an d tlie L ychnis TIos cuculí, a rc sca ttered over th is d is tr ic t w ith o ther p lan ts o f a nortltern parcntfi^c, ra re ly found in the ren t o f Portugal.

S een a fle r te n I arrived a t th e aniall Tillage? o f A lcohafa. a n d stopped a t an in n l>elter furnished w ith wasps th a n provisions ; a p ro tty young lady b ab b led m uch to D ie cfm crn iiüg K n g lan d an d E n g lish m anners, which, 1 suppose, m ean t th a t some yo ung B ritish oiDcer was lo rd o f th e ascendant. 1 w en t to th e convent, a n d sen t in a le tte r o fintroduction. S w ih o rA ----- -, a young w onk , o fq u ie t an d p leasing m anners, received m e courteously, and led m e ro u n d tb e lofty cloistex'a which encircle an inner court, filled w ith orange trcew. T h o convent o f A lcobaca is constructed opoi) a scale o f {budal m agni licence, which alfords a s trik in g proof o f th e g rea t weaUh and im menee eonsideciU on form erly attached to th e monastic orders, T lie kitchen l8 nearly a hundred feet

long, an d s ix ty th ree fccf iiig h from t t c floor U) t h e in trados o f the vault. ' T h e fire-place is Iw n ty . eigh t feci lo n g b y eleven ht09>^, and s tands iii the centre o f th e apartm en t, tlirough v ,\n d i a stream o f w ater flows,—i t m«Bt b e confessed, a magniti- ccn t appanage to a kitcbeii. T h e refcctory is nlncty-two feet long by six ty -e igh t broad. As we approached th e clock struok eleven ; th e bro* ilie ihood poured in ; th e organ iwimded, a n d the ch au n t o f th a n k s ^ v in g arose as we sa t down to dinocT.

I i was e rid en t, even o n m y first in troduction to these m onks, th a t th ey w ere very superior to m ost o f tlieir order, an im pression fully confirm ed by fu rth e r aw iuain t« icc ; fo r they possessed th a t coîrtesy and d is tin d io n o f m anner, which b irth , or lo n g an d early acîuidntance w itli good Boeiety can alone coofcr. I afterw ards lea rned th a t they w ere B ernard ino m onks, whose choice in the elccljon o f novices is very m uch restric ted to p e rsona o f condition ; a lim ita tion which lias k e p t np th e respectab ility o f th e ir order, am id th e com- parative degradation o f p a r t o f th e profession. T h e Franciscan convent*, on the uODtrary, from their poverty , a n d from o ther tauses, have fallen in to the h an d s o f persons selected from tlie lower classes, who, aa m ig h t b e natu ra lly e ipcc tcd , eomotimes disgrace th e lirotherhood b y their excesscB. T h e m onks o f th e liighcr orders axe

c 3

grn iT iJly fe stra in ed h y coosidCTations o f poU cj and 9c}f-ro8p«ct, a rc often «waycd l>y h igher moHvca. an d alm ost dw ayn throw a decen t veil over any violations o f th o convent n d es . W rite rs a rc too a p t to I l to I ta tbe munu«tic orders in ©nc ifenerfti dcnunciAtion,N\ilhotrt reference to tlie dilTercnt sybtem s p u rsu ed b y t i e Tarlous orders, an d the d ifferent resuit* neceerarily p roduced ; b u t no sta tem en t can Lc ftiit an d correct, unless i t bo grounded on a s tr ic t and unprejud iced exo* m ination o f fiuDts. A n d 1 m u st s a j th a t tho kighly-coloured statem ents, »o ofl«n p u t fo rth by trevellere ag a in s t th e m o n ls an d th e monastic esCablifthmenta, come w ith a singularly b ad graco from meu who, journey ing in a w ild country, and deprived o f th e usnal eomfbrfs o f lift?, p artake w ith freedom o f th e ir g cn e ro iu hospitality , aitd th e n repay th e benefit b y aaacrtions w hich tm th an d ju stice do n o t w arrant, an d wMck g ra titude an d good feoHng should restra in .

W h atev er m ay b e th o rem ote eflects o f the suppression o f th e w ealth ier convents i a Spain an d P o rtu g a l, still, in th e neglec ted s ta te o f a g ricu ltu re p rovailing th roughoaf so la rg e a portion o f th e Peninsu la, th e ir ex u ten ce was a bleesing» an d th e ir abolition is, I conceive, a p o n tiv c evil, to th e s ta te . T h e m onks were o ften tb e only rc&ident proprietor« in a eou jitry d eserted b ) it* » fttu ral laodJords; and th e ir bcncficlal influence

was visible in tb c im provem ent u f Ihoir ealalce, an d ia tb o increased com forts o f th e lu rro an d in g p o p u la tb n ; fo r t te y b ro u g h t to th e m M agem oat o f tJicip properties g rea t cap ita l an d g rea t iotcUi* ^ n c e , a a d largely em ployed an d liberidly re w arded th e industry o f the U b o u re r : t ^ i r estate« were, i a ccnnrequoDce, no t u n fre q w n tly th e hea t cultivated ia th e kingdom , an d th e su d d ca and ill-judged abolition o f tb e coavonts will p ro l*b ly , for m an) yeaxt to come, ra th e r chcek th a a p ro mote the in terests o f ftgriculCure- Th«#« ced e - aiMtical (Hirporations »hould have b e e a preserved, and would have bo«n invaluable, i f a lte red and improved, »o as to ex ten d th e ir sp h ere o f actioB, to compriae o th e r an d im p o rtan t du ties, an d perhaps resem ble, in som e degree , o u r college iasUtutioTis *.

A fte r d in n er Senhor A ------ led m e to a eoolarvd refresh ing cel), and , leav ing m e to w poec, re tired also to in d u lg e i a th e accustom ed siesta. I s lep t fo r some time, a n d waa a t le n g th aw akened by a a ligh t no'me. I tu rn ed , a a d saw a m onk, looldng alm ost like an u n ea rth ly h e ia g , m b e stood m otionless a t th e foo t o f th e b ed , shrouded

* M>. E f f o r t , »» b i* » p k n d id • « » - « o f IIm » U « » â o r t j n r f y ( • t b * p c i^ p tio Q a c o n d i t io n vt t b e M M u t« k u l d i a f u ad e t (bv f ro n k i, * t ilw ti-i»e ®f h i# v l i j i to A JcvlxK»} I 9 t j . » i th M O « n u M t o i * , t h * t t h i r t r y « * » sfw rw w O » I b r ir

W s o tw » re la a k u i^ t » p rc ju d ic c tb e m a^M K St t h c i i t x e l e s i a i U a l «o>

JOURNFY TO OPURTO. [cH. II.

l i j h is co>*l, ftnd a t t i r rd i s th e wliit« a n d Qowlog^ robe o f Ms order. I t jiroved to l>e m y iiie iiJ the moclc A ntooiv , who had a rrived Io couduct mo to th e lib ra ry an d th e churcli ; b u t, finding m e aidet^p. w as unwiUiTig to d is tu rb m e. T h e library is n n o b le apartm ent, fastcfully d<?w>ral«l, well p ro portioned, an d al>ounding in w orks o f u^joful k c o w le d ^ . T h em o n k a showed m e a fine edition o f th e I liad , p resen ted to them b y M r. C anning, a o d a splendid copy o f th e L usiad , th e gift o f l ^ d y B ute . T h e churcli a fine Gothic b u ild in g , an d contains, w ithin tw o m arble sepulchre«, th e rem ains o f i )o n F ed ro th e P irs t, an d the far^ fam ed b u t unfoctUDate Ifiez d e Cawtro-

I t is scarcely necessary to ideiate the «tory of D o n P ed ro ’s a ttachm ent, so ee lehratcd b y all the po e try o f I 'o rtu g a l. 'i ’h a t IM nce, the sou and heir o f /M yhonso tlie F o u rth , was passionately à ttached to Inoz d e C astro , a lad y o f extrsordi* Qary bean ty , whom h e fioerotly m arried . H e chose a lovely an d sequestered spo t ilk tho valley o f th e M ondego, as the residence o f liis young b rid e , and, re tir in g from th e turm oils o f a b rillian t C o u rt, spen t in th a t seclusion th e h ap p iest, and p e rh ap s the m obt v irtuous hours c f hia life. B ut th e secre t tran sp ired , an d h ie royal F a th e r, en* ra g e d a t the discoverv, proceeded to th e ir little bi>wer o f love, And, a rriv in g al a lim e w hen th e P rin ce w as on a h u n tin g excursion, iinmedi*

CH. II.] CONVBI«! OF AI-OOBA<JA. 3 7

ate ly aatborisod th e m iirder o f th e Ul-fatcd Ificz. T h e Princc, on hia ic lu n i , gave way to tlie wilde s t fury an d despair, abaodoncfi hia hom e Tor a long time» and w hen b e eventually sucoccded to th e th rone, inflicted th e severest pun ishm ent od th e worliilca» m in isters who b a d in stig a ted the deed, an d on m any o f th e ir relatives. B u i the sonoWB o f th is P rin ce , an d o f th e lad y h e loved eg well, have l>cen lo n g a t re s t, and th e ir sculp- txrrrd f i b r e s arc p laced in a recum ben t a ttitu d e upon th e ir rcai)€ctive m onum ents, the aides o f w hich are worVod, in relief, w ith an inim itable beau ty and richness o f d e ta i l : thoy have suffered, however, in common with otlier p a r ts o f the convent, from th e rapacity f>f tb c F re n c h ; for those enligh tened b a rb a rian s Dot only se t fire to tlie build ing, b n t destroyed som e o f th e finest sepulchral carving, in a sacrilegious a ttem p t to b rin g the im agined ti*casures ol* th e tom b to ligh t. T hey d rag g ed the bodie« o f th e roya l p a ir from th e vau lt where th ey h a d *o lo n g reposed. D on P ed ro , s te m even in d ea th , is sa id to have reta ined the severe expression which never forsook h is countenance, a lie r th e p e rp e tra tio n o f th a t dreadful deedw hi<h ren d ered him homeless and houseless; and D o n a Inc*, th a t o lêct o f bis boyish passion, th e ra.use o f all hi« grief, an d o f h a lf h is crim es, w as still lovely a fte r th e lapse of cen tu ries ; h e r h iu r re ta in ed i ts au b u rn colour,

usúiarmod bT tiinc . t tw o d I j iDjured b j the PtcQorvelesc h an d th a t d id n o t »cruple to biv»dc tb c d w e llio ^ o f tbe d e td . Añi?r tb c d q w lu T e o r th e F reoch , tb e miicb*ralamDÍa(éd, b u t fmr m ore c iv ilizfd iriooks c u c fu lly eoUcctcd b c r ncftt-> t^nrd hail, a o d s till religioitsly preserve th e ehe- risbcd rclic.

A s t wa« bend ing over tb e m onum ent, tk c m och g r s d u a ll j led th e conTcrsalifm to th e f a s t in g s ta te o f public affa irs; b e had c r id m tly bccD an accurate obaerrc r o f roccpt e v e n ts ; an d aovr conccab?d, u n d e r a w ell-leigncd a ir o f indiflc* rcnco, an anxious desire to o b ta in tb c la te s t poli« tica l ic te l l i^ n c e . T b c obacrr&tioDS w h k b be addressed to m e were po in ted , a a d calculated to elicit th e g rea tca t portion ijifbtm ation b y tbe sm allest possib le nnmbeT o f d irect qoenea, wbJU the correct know ledge which liis qocstions in d ica ted o f B ritish p a rtie s an d o f th e ir re la tive posi* tion excited my a u r ^ ^ e . H e ooce can g h t an ex- preasion o f th is k in d upon m j couBtonanee^ aad tbongb. i t waa b u t flig h t, an d in s tan tly checked, h e w as m aoifeatlj discompoaed. H e afterw ards ^ o k e in guarded term s, b u t once b e tray ed . In a rem arkab le m anner, th e in te n c itj o f h is in te rest i n th e su l^L ft o f our conrcrsation. I happened to s ta te m y C(«victian, from recen t occurrences, th a t Worn M igccl w ould soon re tu rn to Portugal, an d aaânie th e g o re m m c n t; h e rep ea ted my

word* slowly, b u t in a T o i« which clearly showed th a t powerfuJ em otion w as a i r u ^ I in g w ith h a b itu a l self-command, lou ring o u r « m T c r s a i i o n , he h a d so judiciously p laced him self, th a t, s tan d in g with h is back to th e l ig h t, and ¿ iro u d ed b y hi* cowl, he was Tcry m uch enab led to conceal the expression of h is own coim tenaflce, w hile lie could distinctly trace th o sU ghtest change o n mine. M y eyca were b e n t on thn m onum ent w hen ho repeated m y w ords; b n t, a ttrac ted b y th e deep an d altcTod to n e ,o f hi» Toicc, 1 in ro lun ta rily looked up , an d th e triu m p h an t jo y th a t sparU ed in h is d a rk eyes, which e re a th e position ho h ad assum ed conbl n o t a ltogether conccal, a t once disclosed h is secryt b ia s : he, how eror, instan tly recovered h im self; a n d w hen I looked a t him again, Uie su bdued m anner o f th e m onk h ad replaced th e eag er feeling o f th e p a rti zan.

W c adjourned to th e garden, whiiJi w as kep t in th e h ighest « d e r , an d h a s th a t ne plu» td tm o f luxuries m a so u th ern clime, a fine ru n n in g stream , overhung w ith com aatic willows. T h e ercn in g waa calm , a n d the m onks w ere passing to an d fro am ong th e ir d cp en d en ti, superin tendin g tiieir im provem ents; h ap p y themselvc*, they a p p e a r ^ to b e com m unicating happitkess to all around tliem , an d exhib ited a p leasing and , I th ink , n o t wholly a dclosiTe p ic tu re o f m onastic Ufe.

I n the evening 1 b ad a ro u n d o f yisits from Ibc boly b ro thers, \?Iio Jccpl d ropp ing in , s ta ) io g » few m i D u t c s w ith me, an d th e n tó ü n g th e ir depav. tu re , b u t th e ir genuine pobtene*« d id no t allow tbem to leave m e a m om ent alone. A t leng th th e bell sounded, an d we descended tp supper, w hich varíe* in no respcct from d inner, as th e sam e regu lar couTbes a rc served up, an d wine an d dessert a re afU;rwards la id upon the tab le . T h e num ber o f hours which h a d elapsed since d in n er explains th e fiwility w itli which we a ttacked a second tim e such a substan tia l repast.

T h e re a re few circum stances w hich so mucb im press an Tlnglisbroan, accustom ed to tbe la te h o u rs o f hia n a tive country, as tbe difference o f hab its p reva len t in th is respect th roughou t th e Porb igueue provinces. T b e b reak fast so extrem ely early, th e d in n er a t eleven, th e eoc- ceed iug siesta, an d the la te supper whicb concludes th e day , are hab it« so alieu to h is own, th a t h is ideas o f tim e are a t first sadly eon luaed ; a t leas t th ey p roduced th is |>erplexing effect upon m in e : however, I soon accom m odated mybclf to custom s in a ll re«pccls u e l l su ited to th e country. T h e Cr^t h o u rs o f the m orning arc so deligh tfu l in th a t luxurious clim ate, the b r ie f repose d u rin g th e b u rn in g noon so g ra te ful, an d th e la^t an d loveliest portion o f the day sp e n t am ong th e ir gardens and in th e society

o f their dark eyed women, is no t Ici* agreeable. U nlike our E n g U s t hab its , Uic m orn ing is broken b y to o m any mt*?miption8 to adm it of serious o^'nipation, ihc OTeoing ushers itt s till lightwr ftcence, and tb o s in P o rtu g a l d io bark o f life i* w afted iodolently down th e sunny an d unruffled stream .

B u t to r e t j r n to m y B cm ard inc friends. S upper seem ed tb c ir m ost jov ial re p a s t; « e sa t long i old convent ta les w eut round, leg en d s of interpoelng angel» were g ravely told, an d anecdotes o f fn a rs lo n g dead and gone exc ited peals o f rnemmcTit. "WLen our party bruke u p I look leave o f my k m d hosts, and deeircd tlie m ule teer to b o ready a t throe o’clock in th o m ornlug. A s I re tired to my cell th ro u g h the never-ending galleries th a t echoed io my steps, an d beneaJK th e lam ps th a t h u n g a t g rea t in tervals an d dindy l i t u p theso h ig b an d gloomy corridors, th e wKole scene appeared to realize M rs. B adrli lie’s descriptions, an d imprcABcd m e w ith an awfo\ seni>o of m onastic grandeur/ T hose m igh ty mo'nunientu o f ancestral p ie ty stood th en 5n tLelr p rim ev a l m igh t, as g rea t as glorious to th e vu lgar cye^ b u t the bo lt, though s till enveloped in the silen t cloud, was rife for th e ir d cstru c iio n : lik e the trop ical sun th a t sots in nndim lnlshcd glory* ih e ir day, s till b righ t, s till proud, was alm ost s p e n t; b u t, unlike th e darkness o f tlie ti*upleal

42 iO V K X U T T O OPOKTO. ¿ C M . 1 1 .

w w ld . Uie n ig h t th a t w raps thorn m i t s gloom , is f to ig h t th a t knows n o m orrow. T hose heaven* devo ted stTUCturea th a t rose bo bau gh tily aboTe th o h am U er w orks o f m an w ere aheady m arked b j (he spoiler, lilvcb th en I fe ll th c v hours wcro Dnmberccl, an d th a t (he com ing ag e w uuld kaow them not. T h e church in P o rtu g a l m a i b e likeocd to a w arhn r d a d in a coetly su it o f a rm s ; h is lance luB l>een g iven h im b y som e g ra te fn l Sovereign, h is sword b y ano ther, his co a t o f m ail Ly a th ird . Surro iinded b y a h o s t o f assailants, k c s till main- ia in s th e unequal fight, h e s tili refuse« to yield an in d i for life o r death , a n d falls fit len g th T ith a l l h is h ig h p rerogatives o f boDom* undim inished, w ith id l b is royal gifts e n t i r e ; an d o h ! th a t gorgeous panoply , t h « c ^ t a l g ifts, th e cause o f h is destruction , becom e th e ^ i l o f h is d e stroyers. K ven so th e d in rc h i a P o rtu g a l, rich in i ts rogal endow m ents, firm in i ts fa ith , and b o ld in th e assertion o f its lawful rights^ m aid- ta in e d them to th o laat, comx^dio^. yielding, com prom ising n o th in g ; y e t snch had b een the final s tru g g le , an d such th e o v c r w h ^ in ^ fall, T ho 1‘ecent desecration o f th e c o av en to f A lcobaâ, one o f th e m oat inagnificcnt mcnumoDts o f the k ingdom , was a t once an insuU to th e religious p rtju d ice s o f th e people, ai>d disgraceful to the ta s te o f tho m odem Portu 'm esc.9

O n leaving A lcobaâ I was assa iled b y a hu rri

cane o f w ind I h r o o ^ w hith 1 rode toth e viUftge o f B atsJha , and, a# there w as no inn , re p ^ rv d to th o m onaslory. T h e ^nt(«iDt, b u t the S tc risfan conducted m e to tho church, which i» b u ilt in th e p u re tl ytyle o f G o lh k architoctiipe; and , indeed, th e ju s t pro* |K>rtiorw and noble sim plirify o f the rooC o f the clustered colucina an d po in ted arches, caa rw* w here be «irrpaased. l a an unfin ished chapel, however, th e arabesque an d tl»c Norxaan atylo a re s t r a o ^ ly b len d ed ; « t£ \ th e ornaaicnta arc so graceful, th e w ulpW rp so rich, an d the general w orkjnanslup no exquisitely beautiful, th a t ihc ©yn )8 n o t r e r d t c d b y *uch an incongm ous m ixture. R e tu io in p f r « n the church 1 found a m onk in ray celi an d a d inner on ray taW e s m c d u p b y oiw o f those cross-praioed yet fa ith fu l m enials, who ^ a e r a l ly m ake ih c ir appearanne ia aionaaterios an d novels.

1 le ft B a la llia early on th o feUowing m orning an d brca lrfi* ted a t Iho ancien t tow n o f L eysia, d istingu ished only b y ita fine o ld M oorish castle. B etw een L ey ria ao d Pom bal, th e b irth -p lace oi th e ce lebrated M arquis o f th a t aam e, tbe In d iaa com looked b e a u ti^ lly g ay an d ^rccn, an d th e country, co rered in p a rts w ith cork an d chestnut, w as extrem ely p le a s in g : a o t so the hornets, who b uzzed abundantly in m y cars, pitchod upon my shoulders, a n d g rea tly m olested m o an d m y

hoi'se. I Lave ra tlie r an flfTccfba Tor waapg, “ ib a t l ig h t lo ilitia o f the lo« o r sk y / ' rap id in Iheir aftacks b u t equally ra p id in tlie ii re tre a t j b u t the ho rn e t thlokb twice before h e comoufs hiiTLself. an d wheo once h e settles, is iovested VTith an ftwful character o f perm anency, and , like tlie B ritish power in ]Q<lia^ ke<;p6 po^sc^siou o f th e sc a t which h e h as once usurped .

T Jie sun was se ttin g in gi-cat glory as I en tered CouJexA, A t the first ioD where I s to p p ed the laocllord was d \ ing, su I rej>aired to a house k ep t b y a p r ^ t y la’id k d y on th e o ther side o f the s tree t. 1 drew n ear (h e kitchen fire, a n d underw ent a lo n g exain ication irom tho y o u th lu l beau ty and som e lau g h in g g irls, who dinbeUoved m y E n g lish origin, an d sa id th ey knew m e to b e o f soudiern tho \igh no t o f PortiagucBO extraction . T h e m aidens o f C ondexa have long been ce lebrated for th e ir personal a ttrac tions, an d these raerrj dainecla were certa in ly above llie general stand* a rd o f th e national beauty . A y o ung woman of anperior m anners en te red th e room , b u t sat apart, apparen tly ab 8orl)cd in though t. S he sighed deejfly a t intervals, an d a t le n g th asked mo w hether 1 could give Iier any intelligence o f S ilveira an d h is a d h e re n ts ; from which I inferred th a t h er fortunes were connected w ith those o f th e inHorgents.

O n th e following day I rode th rough a country

cOYurcfi w itii oU\ eo to CoimU-a, b u ilt on th e »lope o f a hill, and irkort im posing w hen seen a l a distance. Wt? passed Ih e b r i d ^ . which a t th a t tim e ex tended over a U rge l>ed b f shioglos. hu t in th e w in try au d au tu inual m onths c ro » e s a widfi and ra p id to rre n t; b u t th en , in eonseiûenco o f the « m tin u cd heaf, the M ondogo h ad shrunk w ithin very narrow lim its. W e en te red th e town « id (ioscundcd in to IIc ll, for so th e in n is called ; and the flubterranean passage wliich conducts to i t juatiGes th e name.

H av ing le f t xny le tte rs o f inlroduotion a t vwious houses, I p lunged ib io the M ondego, an d afterwards roam ed a l^ng i ts banks, w here 1 m et a lalw urer, who h ad witueHsc*d m y arrival a t tho inn, an d xras th e n accidectfllly passing by. H e f r e t te d m e w ith a h e a r tfe lt “ V ivan I os liigleeCN.’ th e first an d la s t trib u te o f popu lar cnthiisiasui tow ards m y country th a t m e t my ear In P o rtu g a l; b u t i t scorns th e B ritish troops h ad been long stfvtionod in thi* neighbourhood, an d th e ir excel- lont conduct Ixad won th e ofcteenx an d conciliated the affections o f tb e ftimple-minded peasantry . O n ihe la s t day o f A u g u st I explored the b o ta nical garden , which is b y n o m eans rich iu raro an d curioiis p lan ts , b u t contains fwme beautifu l ■peciuieu» o f the mimosa, and h as a fine palm , an d a banyan tree .

I aftervrard* ro d e w ith &omc P o rtu g cesc gen«

tk m e n to PortcU a, a p k tu rc sq u c t y o t am ong mounlainjB, an d in tb « cv ca io g ad joo rned to th« houM o f Seolior . who roccived t d o cottr- teoualy. T liere were se riira l UAies. a n d noa6 proloMora o f tiie uo iT craitj, who«c influcnee o n «octetj w as pcrocptib lc in th e im proved and in te lk c tn tl n a tu re o f tb c convcrtation. Son:^ gcnt)crncD o f tbe pftrty dw elt w itb in t^ e s i on th e character an d p o lk y o f tb e la te M r. C anning, b u t were JiiHv poseessed b j tb e belief tb a t b it dcatli was solely a ttrib u tab le to pob o n , adm iniste re d to b im b j hi& politiea^ oppoDCSit«. I en deavoured io d ispel th is dc ludon , b u t w iiiioui eueocss.

T h e vacatioQ ex tends th ro u g h tb ^ susuuer m onths, an d the s tuden ts were in consequc*nce d ispersed o re r tb e c o u n try ; a few were, liowever, s till rem ain ing In th e ULiversity, p rep arin g for th e ir degree . T h e y are generally eag er poU- ticiant»; b u t th e only s tu d en t w itb whom X becam e acquaio tcd d l w u ^ d the c h tk a l quodtiona o f tbc tim e witb an u t te r an d alm ost lu d ia o u s indifference to th e ir fina3 r e s u l t ; b e w as ev i' den tly orcrficwlDg w itb bapirines«, an d w iis^j refused to u i^ c ip a te th e ftngry passions and Tczatioub d k ^ p o m tm o D t« o f k t e r life.

O n th e 1st o f Bcptennber, a c c ^ p a n ie d by the J u iz d e F o ra , an d some P o rtu g u ese gentlem cft connected wHh th e u n i/e n ity , 1 w en t over th a t

pile o f im ild ing, an d passed th ro u g h Bcreral ap«rt- mcnt» devoted to th e ¡astru cü o n o f youth. T h e cdieetion o f aul^cet* fo r th o »tody o f n a tu ra l h k - lory IB to lerab ly good, th e o baerra to ry com plete, »nd the in s tru in cn ti in perfcct o rd e r ; o f thcw? tho g rea te r n iu o b er were m anufactu red in London, a few only in T w i» . T h e achool w h » e degree« a re conferred la oid*€utblcBed an d picturesque, the ceiling i» c«rioa*ly paiikted, tm d t i c walls a rc b u n g round w ith p o rtra it» o f th e K ings- T h e re are six depuítm ent» o f bistrocrtion in tb ie uni- T sre ity ; tb ey com pHse th e caoon l&w. th e civil Uw, m edicine, n a tu ra l philosophy, an d m athe- roatics; dilTerent degrees a rc tak en in th e re^pec* tiYC faculties, th e s tu d e n t generally a p p ljin g him se lf M the j>arliccU i bcanch o f s tu d y in ten d ed to form th e basis o f lu« profcs®ional cxprtioos in after-life. T h is is pe rh ap s an irop ro rem en t upon o ar system o f college edoiâtion, wLero th e sam e degree is td k c n b y all, w ithou t any reference to th e d ifferent n a tu re o f tb c ir fu tu re occup«tÍMw- T h e G reek an d L a tin tongue» a ic a J » ta u g h t a t Coim bra, and m oral pbiloBopLy. h istory , a n d th e belles le ttre s a re m ade iwbsidiary s tud lce to the bighisr lectures. 1 1 » p re ra ilin g system o f educ*. Uou w as ifttroducod b y th e l ¿ r q t t » o f Pomba3, who »poke w ith p rid e an d p leasu re r f tb e reform e fc c te d in tb e um Tereity d u rin g th e perio d o f h k

adiuiD istration, an<l cTcn undertook a v o jag o from Lial>on to Coim bra, fo r the sole pu rpose o f open* in ^ a n d sanctioning w ith hi» prcscaco th o now course o f stxidie».

I n a form or work upon P o rtu g a l, o f a g rav er character, 1 Iiavc com m onded th e pulicy o f th« Tortugueae governuiont in a ttach ing the most in tlaentittl persons io the uo ivcrsity to their iu te rcsts , by frequeo t prom otion an d honourable tr e a tm e n t; some coium andcrles o f tl>c O rd e r of C h ris i a rc annexed to t h r oflice o f senior lectu rer o f m athem atics and n a tu ra l pLilosnpby, while every ra th e d iu l tiiroughout th e l<ingdom is obliged by a |)apa) bu ll to a tta ch a certa in uym - h e r o f its prclicbdul eialls to the different faculties o f th e u iiiviraity , restric ting them , howt*ver, to gentlem en beloi«giDg to th e clorical profession. T h e most able law u istrueto rs in tike un iversity are often prom oted to th eh ig liea t tribunals o f the k in g d o m ; the naost em inent teachers o f divinity and cftuon law to the h isliopries: an d th e m ost skilful p rofessors o f m edicine becom e pbyeidans in ordinary to th e K ing , an officc wldcli coofers im m ediate d istinc tion an d ensures u ltim ate ad- Tanceioent. T b e servicc o f tlie un iversity ia therefore considered honourable, an d even the proviDcial Dobics a re soiUGtimes com petitors for a vacant lcctur<;sbip. T h e expenses o f tiiltioq

Mc dctrayed by th e revenues o f th e uo iversitj, an<i the students only p ay a siuall sum fo r th c it board aud lodging, an d a iew trillin g fees.

I n the evening I visited tlie convent o f Santa C rus, an d w andered for som e t i d e am ong its s h a d j walks an d fountains, i ts lu x u rian t Iiedge« o f cyprces, an d its am ple rc&crvoir» o f water. T h e monk* belong ing to th e o rd er o f S t. A u- gusti|}, men for tlic m ost p a r t o f noble descen t an d o f dibtinguishcd m anners, a re forbidden hy th e regulation* o f the m onastery to a |q ica r on foot beyond th e ir oonvont walla, an d arc often seen m ounted on fine horses splendidly eapari- soned. 1 apent m y th ird an d la s t evening a t tho house o f Senlior th e Senhora was aur- rounded by h e r l i ttle childron, a p re tty , dark-eved race th a t h a d ju s t begun to m ^ e m y aoquaini- ance,

'J 'he oUve abounds in th e neighbourhood o f Ooim br», an d i ts oil is considered peculiarly good, an d decidedly superior to th a t o f S p a in : tb e tree is, however, subject to a severe disease ; under tlie influence u f the fcrragem , o r ru s t com plaint, the leaves shrivel, the tre e sickens, aad bears Uttlc fru it, I have sometimes seen a whole wood affticted w ith th is disorder, fo r w hich no *atisfec- tory rem edy haa be<!n devised. M ai?e is cultiva ted in t lu j d istric t to a g rea t ex ten t, and 2s m ade in to a yellow lircad, wluch the peasanii, ea t

in largo q u a n tit ie s : i t is also g iven a s fodder 1« catdc.

B efore 1 k f t C oinibr* I rode io th e Pontf? d w r^ g r im a s , and paa*ed t l i r o u ^ a blooining g.ir- d â , ini«naiiied ' th e garden o f t « r s . ’ to th e spot w here th e \oung; an ti l>e*utiful lu e a d c C w tro TP* slakv- A stream o f th e p u re s t w ater gg»hc« from t i e clifT, an d glide* a long its deep red d tiin n e l; a n d tW* singu lar t in t upon thf%Bti>ne ha» led to the popu lar belief th a t m urder Lm th e re le ft it* indelib le staiji. TTiere »at th e g u ilt ' less, nnsugpectiBg liiez aw aiting her princely hue- b ^ d ; th e re »he received tb e fa ta l -»wmnd; a«d OTCT yon ru d e an d ancien t ba*in d id th e fail* and I t e ehiTairous re so rt in olden lim« to u n ite Hioir te a rs ewer h e r early gruTc. T h e d a rk cypreasc** w arin g over th e fountain , tLe w eep ing wilWws th a t su rround it, and th e strc?am m urm uring alofig i ts rocky bed , a rc admiTably »uktcd t« the tro u rn iu l ta le , Soioe o f th o « oyiJre«es a rc o f g rea t an tiqu ity , an d probably w itnessed h o r so- eluded happiness au d h e r trag ical fa te . 1 q u itted w ith re g re t a scene over which rom anee an d

• T b e <yfi»6i» tb a * g fo v * in ‘ M ira ’ !» th « Cn*pmcu« Luartwlo^ * l«*«f «tren»« led cWwly *««»-I f ld g i a t ; r u « tb th a c « d u o f L e b u o n , t b « i « h lU oper in cwlaax. iS i> IU *«r7 U olikc thpi cyp tM ir 1 >**1 ^»wi.ipv>«ahUithfW a«9dtot3«»t.lrt*«ftJW *. I t wm orif^pjly bicpught ftii* tJo» to B uueo . bot i* M * •iJy fc«*J ta « I k m id lftb d p t r t i P o r t u f 4 l : &/T i t h » » m ib o n c i f i M

bnîrhccd Livbt^n, »sd i« oo lon rei to b« »eco (o tb« IIk u * « ' '

p o etry ftTkd o ld trad ition have throw n iheir Bwcotcri sp e ll

Leaving th e h i^ w a y I toward» BiiMiTO, to tioe th o iDcmoRible £eU o f 'balllei» th ro u |'ii mountû-pjia:»e*, iincly crested wixh pine» and abounding iu e v c ty v a r i^ y o f the orehis 1lost m y v a y am oRg th £ dc6lo6. an d d id no t coeily regain it, bc ieg unaccouipaaied b y m y mxiloteer, who h ad s ta rte d a t an eaxliur h o u r ; b u t a fte r wandering for some tim e, exposed to an iittokav al4e bua, I reached ihc^ m onastery o f Busaeo. I knocked long a t due iâie o f Uic cc«ven t lodge hefore it was o(>encd, an d oiy f ir i t I'occplion woa uafroTkous enough, u« tlie portcv o W r w ^ th a t arriTals were incanveoicnt a t th a t Loujr. I miu »o Eiuch ekhau»t<3d by the h e a i chat I couhl hard ly

Diy te&i cya horseback, and w in no t t h e r ^ r c dis^)o«iHi to h e caiiil j rcbuMed, w) conpelU ng the reluctan t m enial to tnforra tb e P rio r o f m y i r r i« '^ a jid &lowly foUowing him th ro u g h a flue wood o f oak artd pine, I roached tfre convent, a stra^gltD ^ edifice, eom pletely em l)osoaed in th e forcbt, T bc P rio r recoKed m e courtcoonly, aod p b c e d sumc wine an d salt fish bcibre m e, re g rr tt io g h e eould no t offer m e b e tte r fare, as m eat was strietly ^ b id < ie o hy iite convent regulalion». H e a ft» * wards led m e io m y cell, wlioro 1 th rew m yself on t)ie }>0d , too h a p p j to enjoy an in terval o f w p o « . ITieije m onkish dornkitories axe m osi welcome to

1) Z

tb e w earied traveUef, from th e ir coolness, tlvck perfcct cIcarJincss, an d th e to ta l absonce o f t i e w inged an d creepiog cannibals tlia t in fest the inoB, I *Wpt for sonkC tim e, and awolce evea m ore fa tigued ilia a wlien I first lay down. I frequently observed th a t, d u rin g the in tense beats, th e lu ld-day aic«ta « a s followed by a sense o f increased exliaustion, nor were i ts in v igo ra ting eifeclb fully C7 i>erieneeii till after su n se t

1 now jo ined th e f r ia r ; an d as b e le d m e nm nd th e convent 1 w as su rp rised a t th e unbroken silence th a t pervaded the p la c c ; a sik n ce which seem ed ra th e r to indie a le a m ansion o f th e dead th a n the social dw elling o f a num erous b ro therhood, T h is p rofound stillness was only in te rru p te d b y tlic echo o f our footsteps, and th e low tones o f m y conductor's voice. T h e lo n g galle- rice w ere p a rtia lly h u n g w ithblacsk cloth, an d tbe shadows o f cveninp, fa s t stea ling over them , gave b ir th to m ingled frcling^» o f m elancholy an d awe. T h e P rio r ofterw arda explained to m e th e cause o f th is b trange silence. T h e m onks who in h a b ited the convent w ere C arm elites, an d tbeir system was, to a g re a t ex ten t, m odelled on th a t o f I a T r a p p c ; for. like th e fria rs o f th a t order, th e y arc enjoined to ob*ersc perpe tua l silence, w ith th e exception o f th e P rio r an d of an assistan t b ro ther, who ac ted as porter.

1 diBCoverrd from subsequent arcouni*, w hal indeed I then su&pocted, that, th e inm ates o f th is convent h a d generally e n te re d thoix cheeriesa ahode from feelings o f b lig h ted affection o r m ortified ambiiioD, th e m ost proUfic sources o f hu* m au diw onteat- T h e system o p era ted differently on different tem p eram en ts : a few h a d bew ino reconciled to th e ir a lte red m ode o f oxigtonce. others b ad sunk in to a s ta te o f m en ta l le thargy 5 and m any, after the lapse o f a few years, were vainly anxious to q u it th o lr living tom b. Some h ad en tered th e o rd er from an ex a lted sp ir it of re lig io n : these h a d n u t d ro o p e d ; u p h e ld b y a powerful tliough m isd irected p iinc ip le , th e ir m inds resisted th e p ressu re o f e:ctem al circum stancea ; the business o f th is life w as exchanged fo r vltJon« o f tlie n e s t , and th e w an t o f active occupation was supplied b y th e in te rn a l fire which supported while it consum ed them .

Tlie P rio r ae<’om panicd m e to th o en trance door, an d lundly pressed m e to p ass th e n i^ h t a t the conven t; b u t 1 was anxious to prooced. " T h is «pot is in d eed dehgh lfu l,” I observed, a£ I wished h im farewell, “ I t is , m y S o n /’ bo replied, w ith th e onld an d m elancholy sndlo o f one who fe lt th e tru th f>f m y rem ark , b u t h ad ceased to derive enjoym ent from th e objects o f Biy adm iration. A s I m ounted m y horse, tlie la s t beams o f th e sun were netting , »nd tb c forest

tre<s cftst t h d r len g th en ed shadows a lo n g tlie /»round. A erosa, tiie cm ljleia o f wzap la r td on a jw destal before th e door. T lie be iia ty an d 8f»*lu8Ìon o f the ifjwt u p p earrd fo h a re m&rked it o c l aa j>«culiarly fitted fo r iho cigoym cnt o f Iran q u il happitiess, b n t th e mis«

o f m an hftd robbed h im o f those tem pera te p leasures w h k h n a tu re h ad bo lavifthly' p rep ared fi>r Ids g ra ti fi fatioo . T h e ciak and fcm T«trind«d m e o f th e d eep glade# o f K ngland , and th e nm jcrtic cT|»re»(8 o f P o rtu g a l *► ^» ih ils waTing braochcs» im pressed tb e eccne w ith a choraetcr o f O rien ta l f^raee : yet, ev en on iojoh a calm and heavenly e ren in g , th e m onks w ere no t allowed to \valk beneath th e «hade o f th e ir forofit tree* : so a c tire an d ingettioo* w rc^ th e fotm dcra o f tliia convpnt in dev ising n i ^ o d s to h e ig h ten the p r ivation» o f its inm ates, as i f th e common eonisc of hum an passions a n d anxiclie» d id no t ren d er ih e cnp wlwcli aU m o st d rin k sufficiently b itte r, w ithout pe rv e rtin g th e p la inest d ictates o f com m on sem e to re n d e r i t s tiil m ore nnpaU table.

H av in g le ft th e c o n re n t, 1 spen t some tim « in exam ining the positions occupied by th e arm ies. Busaco toll« its own ta le ; fo r the b o ld an d peeu- l ia r charactei’ o f th e g round e o a l^ s th e traveller t o follow, wHhmit difficulty, th e h isto ry o f th a t

* 1>* CTiqiT«»» LwHuOK», t« wtmh 1 har« tirud^ tlluM ,

CB« ANB/DOTE o r »OkVES. 56

Ja y . 1 a n iv e d la te in l i e OTcning a t

M elcabadft'O s ib c ^<3 o f Seplcrober 1 }rircd a gu ide ni,

Meloabwla, to lca<l xis Ib io u g h a p in e Ib tc r t of g rea t cxt<nit, a n d au in tr ira te tlia l OTcn lit** na* tises are iometimo* bew ildered by th e moUUnde o f tcacka. O ur guide a ttacked tbe fnam w ith vm* o iual rchpm encc, and tb m b ro k e foriH in iavoor o f D oin P edro , cxpresBing great, b oa tib ty to th e Iflfant, who«c oxpectcd aj)i>earance o n th e fron* tirtg , at tU at tim e, k e p t th e n a tion in auspcnec.

1 o U e rre d ib a t th e peasan try \rcK m ore friendly t o the ConaiilutioD in th is d istric t th an in any other p a r t o f P o rtu g a l, prnUaM y l ^ m ita ric in ity to Coimhra. M y gxiido saiil th a t the wood abounded in wolve«, an d desired m e to obi»ervc t i e utump o f a tre e recently fcUod, telH og m e th a t a yo uug m an, as*ailcd b y th ree o f tho»e ie - Eocious ammale, h ad ta&en refug« in i ts branchcsk M id h ad aft<iw ards cu t i t dow n, a« a m em orial o f h is escapc, an d in testim ony o f liia ^ t i t u d e . I th o a ^ h t th is an o d d m ode o f re tu rn in g thank»,, aad tacitly dc lc rra ined nisvei t o en d an g er my safety for an in h ab itan t o f M eleaiiada. D ifferen t nations have certAioIy different m odes o f c a r e s s in g th e ir sense o f sprric*» conferred: a P o rtu - gneae feils a tre e for th e s&ine reason th a t an EnÛ slim an w ould effectually p ro tec t it,

1 do nu t th in k th a t th e in h ab itan ts o f sou thern

eountric« have generally m uch ta s lc forpicturc«ia© beau ty . 1 tcm ciuber seeing a house, n o t f&r from C in tra , overhung b y one o f th e m oat mag* niliccnt cerk 'trc iis I ev er beheld. I w as stan d in g opposite th e windows, adm iring th e fiantastie beau ty an d um azlng luxuriance o f th e tree , w hca a n o ld woman, a ttrac ted b y m y earnest U4l -Ked forth , observing’ th a t T w as pe rh ap s d^furcus o f tak ing tb e liuu»«; an d add ing , t l ia t i f th e tre e were an objeot o f dislike, i t could b e fe lled im* m ediately. A n y o ld woman may b e gu ilty o f b ad ta s te ; b u t if the tre e h ad been an object o f g e n e ra l adm iration In the neighbourhood, she would n o t Ixavo so u tte rly m isunderstood m y feeling.

T h e re is, generally speaking , fa r less b eau ty an d d istinc tion o f costum e in P o rtu g a l tlian in Spain, b u t tlie d ress o f tb c peasan try is u n u su ' a lly rieh in th is p a r t o f th o couniry . T h e m en were a ttire d in satin waisteoats richly figirred, and o f a crim son co lo u r; som e h ad handkerchiefs lied ro u n d th e ir heads, a fte r th e O rien ta l fashion, b u t n o t in th e gracefu l folds o f th e tu rb an , ab I have seen them worn in th a t parad ise o f tlie C hristiao world, the ra le o f M u rc ia : m any o f the boys, an d som e o f th e m en, were d ressed in a loose g a rm en t rcscinbU ng in fbnn , b u t n o t in beau ty , th e U ig ld a n d k i l t ; an d a broad-briuuned h a t, a re d scarf, an d a b lu e jacke t, n o t worn b u t throw n over th e shoulder, com pletes the p tov in -

cial drc«». T h e y also c trry th e pao o r lo n g pole, &B in the n c ig tb o u fh o o d o f L isbon. I m ot a young p easan t bearin g a pan n ier o f a p e s , \ipon which I m ade a vigoron» attack , b u t no prrsua- *ion would induce h im to receive any rc<‘om pensc; a to ta l abflcnce of m ercenw y feeling very frwûent am ong the P o rtuguese laliourera.

L eaving A yeiro, we ro d e th ro u g h a p re tty country ; the o&k an d olive ab o u n d ed ; the vine clim bed n p th e trees an d h u n g <lown in rich febtoons; sometimes a regu lar treUi»-work w as constructed overhead, and an early n ig h t produced by the dense foliage. B u t n ig h t itse lf was uow closing in , an d we soon lo s t oiir wuy diuid a varie ty o f tracks. In tliiu p a r t o f th e country th e natives involve a s trap g er in frequent Tnistakes by fheir s trange m odo o f d irec ting b irr, which is invariably b y reference to one o f th o four points o f th e com- pas«. N ow south-ea^t, o r north-w est, uuiy b e a very poetical, b u t is a very pU8?1ing'*mode o f di* rec ticn to a m an travelling by n ig h t th ro u g h a country w ith w hich h e ia totaJly unacquainted. B esides, th e po in ts o f th e com pass arc in some degree conventional w ith these ho n est fo lk s; for th e y ta lk ed o f ou i n o rth an d our west, which cer* tainly wa« no t m y n o r th o r m y west, as I found to m y coat, a fte r su n d ry w anderings on th a t lu rk ' leas n ight.

A t lengtlk wc stum bled on a c o t t^ c , an d pro-d 3

on & peasan t to show m the way to O vm w as B rrly , in te lligeo t, an d d a rk aiS a m u la tto ; ho h a d served u n d er D om M iguel w hen he conn'oanded th e arm y, au d evidently reg a rd ed th a t Pfince w ith very jvartial foplings. H e ol*ftcrvcd tlia t he d id n o t troub le Himself w ith Ihe bubtlo points th a t grew ou t o f th e ‘jueutiun o f IL© sueccfia>0Q4 b u t tbougU t D om M ijjucl o u g h t in jiâlice to ascend th o throne, because h e Lad h illed so m r bulla in a m asterly m anner, an d h?td genero u d y p refton£^ th e ir bodies to th e ao ld ie ry ; a novel arg u m en t in th e In fan t’s fcvonr, whitJi bii« p ro b ab ly noTcr y e l su g g ested its e lf to any o f liIs £ o ) a l H ig lm ew 's leg a l advisers. H e also eo te red into » m e eurioufl details respecting th e cueiuius of th is p a r t o f th e country. T lie p rie s t roquire* an n u a lly a bushel o f w heat from every m arried p a i r ; an d b e i t fu rth e r observed, th e re la tiv e ¡»iety o f th e different pcri»hiooers is d e tem iiued b y the icU H tc am ount o f th e p lum s an d good th ings stufied in to these pasca l offerings ; h e said th a t m any o f th o clergy le d dissolute Uvea, a n a tu ra l consequence o f th e ir celibacy, a system favourable p e rh ap s to th e in terest» o f th e P ap a l See, b li t decidedly injurioiuf to general m orals. By ono o f th e c^hurch re^pilations, no p rie s t Is allow ed to Iceep in h is house, as a dom estic, aoy •woman u n d er a cCTtain a g e ; b u t I h e a rd o f an ingenious eccleaiastie who cheated M s eoneclettcc

by r e t ^ n g lw o^c»utiûl women,wbosc u n ited yQ ^n d id no t excocd th e ag e pre- scnbed for oue: bo Ihftt tlie eum lo U l were correct ho Slioug>it i t m a lie rcd l i ttle how th e anw oat were d iv ided ; h k c tliia m anuscrip t, w h k h contain* th e sam e num ber o f words, Nfhcther M r. M u n ay »well i t in to two sm all Tohunca o r com*

prc&s i t in to one.J .a te in Slie even ing we en te red Ovax, a lo n g

»Ireggling tow n, in wtuch I n a tu ra lly concluded th a t Mine bouse o f accommodatioQ m ust e » * t ; b u t h lcrally th e re w as none, 'f l ic rcD in*nU generally, id though i t may b e »aid m ore o f Spain th an P o rtu g a l, abounds in these stran g u iaeon- «istencics. I on<;C btopped ftt a ven ta in Amla* lueia, whicli n o t only possessed lJ>e ncecasariee, b u t m any o f th e com forts o f life. M eat a n d fowls, w ith tea , <j3ifoc, an d chocolate, fo rm ed a »ump- tuous b ill o f fare fo r a Spanish coun try i n n : Ibrks abounded , b u t when I called for a knife, I wM to ld th x l n o such im plem ent was k e p t in th e house, o n a principle o f se lf-p reservatio i. T b s r e « o n given was em inently S p an ish ; b u t m fact th o ro ad was chidly ir t tiu e n te d b y sm ugglers, who live well, b u t alw ays carry th e ir own knives •, an d th is w as th e rea l cause o f th e deficiency.

T h e M m e curious con trad ic tio iu a rc occasiona lly found in th e h ig h er ranks. 1 tom cm bet sleep ing a t iJie hoow> g f a decayed noblcj who

6() JO U R N E Y TO O PO B TO . [cH. H.

received m e w ith tb e utm oet hospitalily . My sleep ing ap artm en t was, Kowever, d e s titu te o f tbe m ost common convcDicnces o f l i f e ; m y Iw d h ad n o curt^ns< thcro was n o t a looliing-glass, there w as no t a Khhii in th e Tf>om. Such b o in g tbe case, I w as sur^m scd, an d som ew hat amu£od. at seeing a m enial, a tt ire d in a faded Hvory o f green a n d gold, e n te r ray a p a rtm en t w ith laxxch s ta te , b ea rin g a basin o f m assive silver, w hich h e was h iraself com pelled to ho ld , because th e re w as no tab le on which h e could p lace th a t ponderons relic o f th e d ep a rted splendour o f th e house.

A q u a rte r o f a leag u e from O var wo reached th e ne p lu s u ltra o f abom inable ions, I h ad d iv ided m y jo u rn ey badly, a n d o ften fe ll in w ith w orse accom m odation th a n I shou ld Iiavc found if I h ad ad h ered to th e regu lar p o s ts ; an d , in th is instance, I helieve, 1 was th e first person al>ove th e ra n k o f a m ule teer wliom m y friend th e in n k eep er h ad ev er en te rta ined , A s I arrived la te , s ta le b read was m y only supper, an d straw my only bod. G row ling dogs and fam iuhed cats contested th o crumb» th a t fell from m y board, an d verm in sported a round m e in lively profusion. M y servan t A ntonio lo s t th o Vcys o f m y trunfe, an d th e m ule teer h is way. So closed the n ig h t

O n tho following day the road w as sandy, and lu y p ro g ress slow. Soon a fte r I le ft O var, I overtook a young woman, o f g rea t perso n a l a ttrac

tions, jou rney ing to O porfo, a tten d ed b j llircc servant*, I g ree ted lier, according to the custom o f the coun try ; an d bjs w c w ere travcDÌog o n the tóm e road , we natu ra lly fell in to a conversation, w hich sh e k e p t u p w itli livelinese an d sjiirit. T ier servants wore bàrefbotx^d : th ey wore a re d sash, a laced jaclcct w irh r ic h silver b u tto n s , a la rg e hat, and ear*ring8 o f uolid guld. T h e eurioiis m ixture o f fam iliar dialogue an d goodnatu red au tho rity which diMact^^rizcd h e r intcrcourso w ith them revived classical aseociations, illu stra ted the sim ple m anners o f (ta ea rlie r agi;, an d seem ed to roalixe the fiescription o f th e G recian denies am id tho ir handm aids : o th e r circum stances con tribu ted to keep u p th e illusioc. Hex r e » ^ a r and noble feature« rem inded m e o f those b«5autiftil model» o f aocicnt a r t w ith w hich n o m odem sculpt Ufc can bear com petition. lTi*r costum e m igh t, in some degree, b e considered clabiical, an d was adm irably adapted to se t fottìi tlxe ^ u ltle e s ou tline o f h er fiwe. She stopped a t a friend 's house near O porto, an d wo se p a ra te d ; b u t we afterw ards renew ed our acquaintance, and I h ea rd from h e r own lips th<? story o f lier life—a sim ple b u t rom antic tale. I t is b u t bhort, fo r she was still very young.

Sho becam e acquainted, a t th e early ag e of sixteen, w ith a young m an, only a few years h er senior, b u t g rea tly bei' supenor in ranL . A c- qu^D tance gave b ir th to a ttachm ent, a n d the

difficulties wWck p reven ted th e ir un io ii iieigh t- cued ti»at feeling in to the m ost w d c n t love. H e r lo r r r ’a family co£Ltomplate<i tJie possib ility o f w c h an event w ith d read ; b u t h e r fa th e r en e o u r^ w J iLeiv iTkteiconrae ao d tlic p lig k tcd couple m et, every eveniog, lu idcr tlie shade o f t l ie g a rd en iig -lrce , au d cx cban^cd vows o f e ternal M ebty . T h e impctuooB b u t resolute a tla ch m ea t o f h e r yo \ing ad in irer a t len g tb appeared to overcome th e o p p iritio n o f hia fitan ly ; a a d b e a r r ire d one ifveniixg a t the try s lin g place iu h ig h sp irits, aod. CBtcrlaioijig sanginne bopc#. T h e y q tc n l a few O elishtful hour* in th e fu ll enjoym ent o f recipro* cal confidence, an d sep a ra ted w ilh th e b e lie f th a t Ih cv would speedily l»e un ited , tu p a r t no m o re ; b u t from th a t h o u r they never m e t again, e ither i n sorrow o r in jo y . H e r lover's fa ther, aniioiw to a v e rt frinn h is &mi)y th e diiigrace o f a n u n equal alliance, h a d ap p ea red to re len t, for Ihc pu rpose o f executing hie desigDS w ith grealer

faeiUty. U e h a d a lieady conferred w ith th e rivil au thorities, a n d th a t very n ig h t h is son wa* a rrested , an d conveyed to a p lace o f s tr ic t confinem ent, w here h e waa seized w ith a n iofectioui fever, o f w b k h h e d ied in a few days, in sp ite o f every exertion to save him.

S he m arried tw o year* aflerw ards, a n d con- fes«ed to m e th a t sh e was perfisctly hapi>y. A p rio r a ttachm en t som etim es ccntin ties to e x ir t in

C H . 1 1« ] S O t 'T H B F K T E M P E B A M E K T . 6 3

a woman's m iod lo n g aftef m arriage i b u t, except in a pyrson o f very doeply-rooted affoctiou*, rare ly « irriy es h \r ih o f a c liild ; from th a t h o u r llic curront o f h e r thougliU Ik'coldcs rh a n g e d ; new duties, ucw fcoliDRS, new h o p « arise, to U n i« h fufiner regre ts , and

“ S b e * 1 » In ti ly le r c J \\>e be«t,

Fvrpw *be k«»<) *t «U."

I observed in m y p re tty hero ine a s trik in g iustan re o f those svidden b u rs ts o f quick and sensitive feeling wluch seem inherCDt in the southern tem peram ent. AltliougK slie Npoke o f her fiw t ill-fated lover w ith cainm css, alm ost w ith indifference, a n d confessed th a t ehc h a d long cwased to re g re t litc difficulties w hich jiresen tcd th c ii u n io n ; y e t once, as she dw elt upon past scenes, an d recalled a thousand instances o f his b o y iJ i dero tion , h e r voice changed, h o t d a rk eyes filled vrish tears, an d h e r whole s<ml seem ed to revert, w ith uodirciB ished affcction, to the object o f h e r early lo re . H e r em otion was hu t tran s ien t; ye t I am convinced th a t, wlule it lasted , sh e would have renoniiced every earth ly tie to h e resto red to h im w h a h a d been tJie first to w in h e r aefections, a a d w as th e n m ouldoring in the grave.

A s I approached O porto , th e liveliness o f the national character bccam e very p e rcep tib le : the

G4 JO U RN K V T O O PO R TO . [C H . I I .

womcD deligh ted in jc 8t and rcpftrfeL», an d spmc* tuae» u u r ie d lL«ni* faceiiouB hum our to a very incoDTenient ex ten t, l>y iLiudifecting m e OD my road. G ood-nafure, however, u ltim ately p re vailed. and th ey alw ays a p p riio d o f th e m istake in to which th ey h ad led m e after I had p tw oedod a few steps in tlie w rong direction : b u t th is kind c f r ^ e r y , te lerab ly d iverting in th e la ir bcx, was pcsitiTely otTeoaive w hen p ractised by the m en. A s I passed th ro u g h a l i ttle village, 1 saw a wom an b tand ing in th e stree t, w ring ing h e r hands, and p o u rin g fo rth th e w ildest laanonta- tiona. I im ju ired in to the cause o f her grief, and h ea rd th a t th ieves h a d b roken in to h e r house d u rin g h e r abeonee. T h e poor wom an euepected th a t she h ad b een robbed o f all h e r l i ttle tre a sure, b u t h ad no t courage to ascerta in Uie ex ten t o f h e r loss. A s do saving*banks, o r iustitu tions o f th a t k in d , ex is t in P o rtu g a l, th e ]K>a£ants e ither h o ard theii* earn ings in s tro n g boxes, o r la j thciD o a t in purchasing goh len trinkets, <rf which they a re passionately fond : so th a t a successful a ttack upon th e ir co ttages m ay deprive them o f the h ttle sto re which th ey have accum ulated b y years o f industrious exertion . T h e handsom e ear-rings a n d chains o f solid go ld , w orn b y women am ong th e lower classe», cxcited m y su rp rise , ti ll 1 discovered th a t th e y regu larly invest th e ir money in the acquisition o f these o rn am en ts : so tlia t, by

C B . l l ] A fU tlV A t A T O rO R T O . 6 5

an unusual c<imbmafion. th e incrcM e o l the famUy wcaltl), an d th e gratification o f tKeir ta s te for pefôna) dtjeoraticn, go b an d vn h a n d ; an d as Ihcac tr in k e ts arc generally o f solid go ld , an d m ade v?ith little re g a rd to fashion. tHcir value is easily ascertained, an d th ey are converted into cash w ithout difficulty.

A t len g th I reached O porto, an ancien t and very p icturesque to w n : th e fltrcets, w ith a few noble e:?ception«, are naiTf>w, an d tJie houses h ig h and ornam ented m th haud«)ine baloonius. T h a t p a r t o f th e c ity which ovcrhange th e D o u ro i* striVingly beautifu l, tho riv e r i ts e lf is fine and clear, an d the banks bo ld , and p a rtia lly wooded. T h e concourse o f peop le was so pjo&t a t 0|>orto when I arrive<l, th a t I y6£S f^ from in n to inn, and from one ex trem ity o f th e city to th e otlier, w ithout being able to p rocure an apartm en t. T h e abeence o f any ftiro ishcd lo d g in g s show* tho little p rogress which th is g re a t c ity h a s m a4o in some o f the m ost essential com foris o f life, while in o ther respects i t h as rapidly advanced in the career o f ciTilization. A t len g th 1 ob tained a b ed room, though no t a sitting-room , a t the hoose o f a m ulatto , where, as I en tered , a la rg e party , o f a

^ i x e d chararter, was coUectbig round th e tab le d’hote. T h e re were tw o Gi-Tmans : one seem ed well inform ed, au d so, I suspcct. was th e o th e r; b lit a s h e abused m e in th e P ortugaosc langoage.

Tntb w h k h lie suppoacd tlioroughly unac- quftintcd, I will n o t d ila te upon W» Tncrits.

I chanced to s it n e x t a m ild an d iaUdlig^cnt E ng lishm an . M r. W aterhouse, who h a d r e s i d e d

iQAQy yearv in P o rtu g a l. T h e cirnverBatloii iu ra e d o a receu i uveat^j. 'l l i c re tirem en t of C o u n t Saldanha, t h e disturbance» w lik h followed hlj» resig tiatlon . the m easure» adop ted u i coone- quence h j S ir T hom as Stubbo, an d H s recall &om th e g o T e r n m e n t o f O port«, were c i r c u m s t a n « ; »

irh ich exciied tliv public in iud » 1 th a t tim o in a ver) h ^ h degree, a :id w ere discussed w ith ixuiKual warmth.

( G7 )

C H A P T E R 111.

C®«ut C o u n t« » o f V iSla Vlor— P .> rtu p « sc Kiciety— E f t? « o f Ck rstf«*eliAiig«» on llw P»forf'»e«® Chiincier—A«tb®r l«a»«9O w i o — S f o f « — P i J l v f W u i f i — D e * e r ip » w o o!ttie T r4* u» i lo Q tr t—T h i V a lc rU iu i« —F e u d a l ojii)i»cre o f tlwNci J «i — C«i n t i n Mg» C h n t e t ^ i c d M w -|i(» ef iht *RWM’'ta Scnbor J«*qn»i»-^4WK»-H«»fpiUii^«r B «aW F «t»«r«-9«p»iit> ofte itheF .aehw te<1 S c in t& to Oi>urtcu

CwpiT V illa Fu>u, since th a t lim e l>cccnnc T>u\b o f T errx ira , h a d w w uncd tlw goT cm m cnt o f OpOTio • few d a y t Iseforc I reached th a t city ; and, o a m y arrival, k io d ly uflercd mo apart- mcivf* in h is h o w e , an d th e ubc c f h is »tud,— a h o ^ U l i t y cliaradcrifttic o f th e P o rtuguese , bu t p a rtk v la fly di*tiagiu®Hng thf* |;cnerou« noWe, whose libera lity w as proverbial b o th a t l ia b o n an d Oporto. 1 declined hia cD cr; b u t, estftWwli- jp g m yself a t th e neighlx>uriog ini> o f B atalha, bccarac a lraoft a o inm ate o f H s house duriog ray lo n g »osidenco a t O porto. H is slaiT com- sistcd o f D o n C atloe. b ro th e r o f tlw M anjuU of FroD tcira, M ajo r B ernardo Sa. dow \is c o u B t Sa d a B anddrft, t i s b ro th e r N ^ c is s o , a n d M a jw M eudez. l i e iatrodw *ed m e to th e C o u jitc« Villa F lo r, a daug liter o f th e a n d e n t house o f

Loulö, an d descended from the far-fam ed and illustrious line o f the MeDdoza«,

T h e Louie fam ily were orig inally o f B ritish orig in , an d are sa id to have sp ru n g from an E n g lis li k n ig h t o f th e narac o f BolHm, who led h is vassale to tb e siege o f Jjslx>n, d istinguished h im se lf in th e service o f A lpbonso the F irs t, and was rew arded h y a g ra n t o f land , a fte r Ihe ra p tu re o f tlia t city. T h e C ountess w as only in h er n ineto en th year, an d in th e first hlnom of th a t uDCi>mmon b eau ty which drew down the Applause o f every P ortuguese, au d afterw ards excited tbe aduDirdtion o f E n g lish ac*ciety. B u t a lthough the Countces wds still so y<mng, she b a d expericneed \<ot\ hardsh ip a n d d an g er amid th e tu rb u len t dissoruiions o f hei* n ative eountry. D u rin g th e la s t few je a re the g re a t had been pecu* liarly exposed to scveie vicissitudes, y e t these she b ad encoiintpred w ith a firmneiis C itraordlL ary in one so young, so debcate, an d so b tQ e calculated, b y b ir t l i o r station , to m ix in revolutionary scenes. H e r childhood h ad l>ecn elouded h y th e ru th less assflÄsiuation o f h e r nuble fa th e r ; she ha<l after- waxds accom panied h e r lius>»aod to a desolate prison : she now fiücd tlie b rillian t position ^vhioh sh e was b o rn to oc-nipy, and was so weU fitted to jfraco; b u t before a y ear h ad revolved, the s ta r o f h er destiny b ad declined, an d sh e was ag a in an exile from h e r native litnd.

T h o iiiilit£.ry govcrnmciLt o f Opt>rto, always an irop o rlan t Ira s t, was o f v ita l conscqucncc in the sictual sta te o f P o rtu g a l. T v o pm ferftil factions a t t l ia t lim o d isp u ted th e political a rena , viewed each o th e r w ith h a tre d and suspicion, and th re a ten ed to d is tu rb th e tran q a ilh ty o f the: city. B y s tric t im partia lity in th e d ischarge o f h is public duties, a n d h y an equal and w cii-judgcd liospi- ta lity to m en o f a ll pa rtie s , C o u n t V illa F lo r secured th e affection n f th e inhah itan ts , a n d m itig a ted those feuds which la y too deep to be erad icated. T h e m ere circum stance o f official ran k coafew g re a t consideration in P o r tu g a l; b u t inth o p i'rson o f C ount V illa F lo r i t was u n ited to h ig h b ir th a u d previous re p u ta tio n ; a n d although soiuc' individuals k e p t aloof, froui p a rty teeliags, th e o f O porto crow ded to his bouse, and to h is lH)i a t th e O pera. I n th e m orn ing th e C ount a n d C ountess rodo out, accom panied b y the ir stafT; and I frequen tly jo in ed them in the ir « K u iiio n s to tlie beautiful environs o f O porto. I n th e c^fcning I gen orally found several persons asfsemhled a t th e ir h o u s e ; or if, by chance, th e re waa no addition tO th e fam ily circle, I waa wot le is cordially w tlcoined, a n d th e hours passed away in lively conversation.

T h a t I m ay no t hereaR er in te rru p t th e th read o f my narra tive , when i t l>c comes m ore eventful, 1 will now insert a few rem arlta o n th e P o rtuguese character, a u d oji th e n a tu re o f P o rtu g u ese

society ; *premLiing only th a t th é y v o eomewliat jHvmatairc ixt thi« p a r t o f m y work, æ I h ad not ib rm cd such coselusiionb tiU afte r a lo n g reAldeocc a t J jsb O Q an d OpoKo.

I f I cou ld d ivest o f cvçry natiooatparti d iJy , a r d dupi>o« m ji^ l f an iuhahita irt o f th e o ther hem iipberc. txarc lltng ü)lcly for ray am ueciueat, n o tin g m en an d manncri», a n d were aaked in wJiat coun try society h a d a tta in e d ita m o«t polished Jorm, I should say, in P o rtu g a l: th is |)erfection o f roanncr is p o r h a ^ m o rt ipfiro- m t e d b y an E ng lishm an , when s c tu in th a t p o rlw n ih e atialACTatic class which has a d c ^ t^ d in m inor point* Üie rcQueincnîft o i the f irr t E u ro p ean society, an d h a s rt^lainod ihc 53>irit, while i t haa in some degree droR>ed tho rx a^ ire ra tcd cerem onial o f th e ok! P o rtuguese covirUisy, i»ortugue»e politic« e«s is delightfid , becausc i t is by no roQun* pu re ly a r tif i« i^ h u t Ü0 W8 in a g re a t m ea«w e from a n a tu ra l kiiid lijw « <j£ ftieUng. ,

A P ortugueee htw a r e a l répugnance to w w ioà Ih c feelings o f the humblcRt ind iriduaJ, and «edulously avoids a sy expression which can possibly have th ttt eEüct ; no t only becuuae i t is ill- b red , b u t becftube th e ac t o f inâ ic ting p am on another is dleagreeablo to h im se lf A I ’ortnguese, pos*oesed o f «trong sarcasti« ta len t, Mill seldom d irec t it, how erer veiled, ag a in s t any in d iv id u ^ p « « e iit, a n d will use the u tm ost circumlocution

in cofivcyin^ siti im plcasajit tru th . £ v c u if 'b ^ b o ftw ue th a t the p«r«on w ith v h o m b e is «ciiuU y conTCTsing i& in the a c t o f drociving }iira, h e often d isgu ijes Lis Icoosvlod^ o f th e faH from h is ap|>TeIiciiîon o f w oucding th e feellsgs o f the de te iv c r; o r i f such a m an b e too w orthless for c<m«ideration, from tb o fear o f g rie rin g h is k in d re d : to such a n ex ten t i* th e ir poUtene«3 tarried . I t m ay oci«*ioDa31v e ic e c d th e pro|»er bounds i h u t Btill th e gen era l iafluoncc o f tb cw dd ica tc a r d oonsid^rate feelioga is h ig h ly bcvc* ficial to society, which in P o rtu g a l rebwablca a vessel ijn |)e lled b y a favouring b reeac o r c r a calm sea, ye t und is tu rb ed b y any d isp leasing iji«{|ua- lity o f m otiyn.

T h e rM th 'ss feeling so often p en iep tib le in E n g litJ i society hard ly ex ists in P o rtu g a l r tbcro are no a rd c r t ajqnraiions a f tr r fa sh io n ; Uierc is Utile p rep ared w it in P o rtu ^ ^cee socifiy, .md 1» one ta lk s fo r th e m ere purpoBC o f p roducing an effcet, b u t sim ply bceause h is n a tu ra l ia s tc leads him to ta k e an a d iv e p a r t in conversation. In sp ite o f m anners apparen tly arlifieial, society is wiore unaflected in P o rtu g a l th an superllcial o b server« would a t fir«t suppose. D andyism ia u n know n am ong ih e ir H5cn, an d eoquctry, wo eom- m on am ong S pan ish women, is U ttto in r o ^ c am ong th e ftur P o rtu g u ese . T h e y d o n o t j>os* f m , to th e sam e ex ten t, th e beady pasaions a^d rom antic feelings o f th e ir beau tifu l D cighboars,

b u t th ey are sofler. m ore trftctable, and cquallj afiectiDnalc. 'Even wbon th ey err, tho aber* r&lions o f a ro a m e d P ortuguese never uprio^ IroiQ fashion o r caprke , seldom from Taoity, and, how ever culpable, a re alwa) 3 tho re su lt o f real preference.

C crtainly, w ith some cxccptions, th e wom ea are n o t lu^lily ed u ca trd j th ey f e d l i ttle iu te rcst in gCQPral subjects, an d consequently have l i t tk g enera l converaaliyii. A s tran g er roay a t first draw ao unfavourable inference as to tliGir natu* ra l ¡)owera, bocausc be has few Ruhjcct« in common w illi tliem ; b u t w hen oncc received in to tbeir circle, acquainted w ith th e ir (riendis, an d in itia ted in the little in trigues th a t a re constantly playing a lo n g th e surface o f socicty, h e hecomus d e lig h ted w ith th e ir Uvclincs«, w it, an d ready per- ceptioTi o f character. T h e h e a t society in K o gland is perhaps the h e s t in th o world, becaubo i t combines cinlizati<m o f m anner w ith cultivation of m in d ; b a t, w ithout reference to in tellectual c u ltu re , th e la s t finish o f ]x>li9hod breed io g d is tin guishes, perhaps in it tttlU g rea te r degree, the h ig h er o rders o f P o r tu ^ L 1 speak only o f the h ig h er orders, fo r th e ir superiority o f m anner over th e m iddling classcs u m ore s trong!) marVed th an even io E n g lan d . T h e re is little perceptib le difierence o f m anner betw een th e different g rades o f society in P a r is j b u t th o u g h th is tmi- furm ity pre\*ail8 in revuJutiuiuzed, i t was, I

BTispect, unknow n to refined an d aristocratic Franco.

T h is characteristic po liteness o f the P o rtu g e s e does uo t

' on);T1irMij;h U li 'a m w s c u ltu red p tU ii , 4 a d rb w m tlie « a } ,"

b u t th e JdndlincB# o f h e a r t from w hich i t flows extends to a ll d a sse s an d alfccts re la tions : it appears i a th e in tercourse o f tKe h ig h er w itli the middliDg ao d low er orders, an d su fteas tlie n a tu ra l jealousy a ris iag from th e d istinc tio ss o f ranlc. A a E o g lish g ea tlcm an , im proi'idcd a t tfie mo- mcBt w ilh m oney, scods a b e g g a r to th e d e r i l : the Sovereigb o f P o rtu g a l calls h im h is b ro ther, and re g re ts th a t h e h aa n o th in g to offer him . Snoh details may ap|K*-ar triv ial, b u t aro really im portan t; becausc these g en tle an d considerate m anners h iirc p ro m o ted a k in J ly fee ling in the people tow ards th e ii superiors, aod have g rea tly contributed to m itiga te the b i t te r sense o f ac tual privation. T h e p rid e o f th e P o rtuguese F id a lg o t i i eliiefty d irec ted ag a in s t each o ther, an d usually re la tes to th e ir fam ily alliances. A P u ritau o or Fidalgo. who traces a pu re ly noblo descent from the earliest tim es, is supposed to form an une<jual alliaoce w hen he u n ite s h im self to th e sciun o f any hoDse, however illustxious, i f n o t also a P u ritan o b y desccat. T h e h ig h e r will no t a lly tliem selres io th e inferior nobles, an d thobie ag a in will form

n o connexion w itli tb c com m oniJty ; b u t pw ce- dcDcy o f T iini is occasionally s u ^ i s c à c à in j»ublic opinion b y an ticu t b irtK j a n d som e u n title d fii- m üies h a re constan tly refused to m arry in to th e houses o f particu la r G randees, bccause th e ir own de*>cont is xmqncstionably m ore an tien t, a n d Üicte- fure considered m ore illustrious.

I f th e nobles are k in d ly disposed, the peop le arc, generally speaking:, extrem ely lo > ^ , l i t tle in clined to T ideoec, easily led , susceptible o f Wnd- ncBs, a n d p a tie n t under m any p r ifa t io a s : tUeir v iitu o s flow from th w r u ativc goodness o f <iispo- â tio n , th e ir vices arc , in som e d c ^ c e , a ttr ib u tab le t o th e system u n d e r w hich th ey îiave lived. T h e overw helm ing ex ten t o f th e reg a l p rerogative, w liid i could deprive th e h ig h es t noble o f hia b ir th r ig h t b y a n exertion o f power,— and th e corr u p t ad m in istra tion o f jxistlcc, w hich could im poverish its victim b y an a c t o f law.— arc abnses w hicb, in th e towns a t least, gave rise io habit* o f refined dissim ulation as th e only saleguard against pow erful oppression. In E n g lan d , d u rin g th e re ig n o f H e n ry V IIT ., w hen th e dispensation o f justice was venal, ivnd the pow er o f th e executiv e practically uncontrolled» th e degradation o f th e national cliaxacter w as strongly m anifested in th e corruption o f o u r ju rie s ao d the servility o f u u r parliam ents. I n those p ro s titu ted assem blies n e ith e r unoffending inuoccnce n o r ondo u b led in*

I f g r i t j wore o f aoy i v w i dgiunst tb o roya l plea- s u re ; an d tb e p o p u la r form s, v h k l i skoald have ^ a a rJ « d the popiiUT liberties, becam o o n ly an additional eng ine o f ty ran o y io th e h an d s o f an o p |ii 'e« i7c s o re r^ g n . E v e n in S ir Rol>ert Wa3- polo's tim e, w hen th e scieoeo o f g o y c m m c D t h ad undergone a to ta l change, \?hcn hifluenec hod sujwruedcd p reroga tiro , th e po litical h o n esty of public m en WM a t a low eh b in d e e d : a century o f good law s a n d uettlod govcrom ent have ^ a - dually ra ised tlie Brltislx chetfacter to i ts p re sen t s ta n d a rd : i l ou)y im proved ^ t h th e im p ro v e m en t o f our in s titu tio n s ; and I know n o t why th e P o rtuguese , who naturaU y pcmsess so m any excellent c^xx&litics, shou ld n o t a tta in tb e sam e m oral elevation n n d er an am eliorated goTem* m ent.

B u t I am fa r from th in k in g tl ia t th e policy pursued a fte r D o n P ed ro ’s trin m p h an i re tu rn to l is h o n , in 1834, w as calculated to cflcct an im* provem ent in tho charac ter o f th e people. A gOTcremcnt th a t owe* ils existence to th e popo lar principle m ust n o t trench upon th e popu lar pro« juJiccR o f the n a t io n ; a govem m enl th a t professes le ra ise tlie eitandard o f th e national m orobly, and to inculcate b e tte r an d h ig h e r princip les of action, m ost itse lf be strictly ju s t ; b u t n e ith e r justice nor policy were consulted w hen th e priv ileges of th e P e e rs were invaded, w hen the convents were

e 2

desecrated , an d w hen tLose sacred stipulations w ere v io la ted which p re ten d ed to secure to the dijpot^sessed m ooks a pcpsif>n fo r life- T h e cruel trea tm en t o f th e pricBthood has eserc ised a m ost unfavouiable mfluencc o n th e charac ter o f the p e a sa n try : th a t unaoplusticated peasao try , which po6s e « e d m any o f th o noblo qualities w ithout the s a n ^ in a r y sp ir it o f th e S pan iard , an d were, till T e re n tiy , a loyal an d coDtenled race, have become g ei'e ra lly disatfccted ia th e g o v ern m en t; and . o u trag ed b y th e in ju ries inflicied upon a C hurch th ey love an d revere, are, even now, in some p a rts o f th e country , arm ed a g ^ s t th e crown j a rc liv in g b y a system o f rap ine, from which they w ould have l a t e ly sh ruok w ith h o r ro r ; and , contra ry to a ll th e ir p rev ious habits, a re feeding upon the lifc 'b lood o f th e ir country.

B efore I p ass on to o th e r sccnes, I m ust fake th is o jiportun ity o f re tu rn in g m y b e s t th a n k s to M r. C risp in , the B ritish Consul a t O porto , who hosp itab ly offered m e ap artm en ts a t liis house, and showed m e every a tten tio n d u rin g nvy residence in t h a t city ; to m y banker, M r- K ingston , an d to th e gentlem en o f th e F acto ry , o f whose civilities I am h ig h ly sensible : io my friend M r. W hitely , the C haplain o f O porto, a gen tlem an o f g rea t an d varied ta len t, I am peculiarly indeb ted , u o t only for the p lea san t hours which I sp e n t in h is society, b u t fo r m any valuable ftuits connected w ith the

C H . m ] P V O R O 'S IS lK T ll-D A T . 7 7

«la te o f P o rtu g a l, w hich h e com taunlcal^d to me d u rin g o u r frequen t ra m b k s in th e neighbour-

to e d .O n the 12th o f Octol>€r, th e an n iv e is try o f

D o u P ed ro ’B b irth , O enn t V ilU F lo r rcriew ed th e troops, who w ere well equipped, w ent th ro u g h th e ir evolutions adm irably, an d received th e an- nouDCcmeDt o f tlic charter w ith lo a d “ V iv a s !” I p u t ' on m y uniform o f th e S?omerBetehire y e ^ m anry, a n d accom panied h im to tlie iield, whero 1 observed to one o f ib e oificers, “ Tlieise reg i- xucnts arc well affected to th e E m peror. “ "Ve», h e replied . " I m t sriTl they send fo rth these loyal shouts w hen an o th er year b rin g s round another 12th o f O ctober ?*’ A t th a t m om ent th e tiU ndard happened to M . “ T h is om en is no t propidou* to your cause,” I replied , laugh ing ly . B efore a y ear had elapsed, th e office« th e n p re sen t were dispersed, tho ir gallan t c h ie f ex iled , an d th e constitn tion had ooased to cxiet. I n th e evem ag C oun t Villa F lo r gave a g ran d d in n er to the officers, th e Colonels o f m ilitias, the ju d g es, a ad th e depu ties. H e p r o p s e d B o n P ed ro ’s health , a n d a f te n \^ d * th a t o f th e K in g o f G re a t B rita in a n d Ire lan d , a to a s t w hich w as d ru n k w ith ap . p k u s e , an d for w hich I re tu rn ed thanks.

T h e o|>«ra h o x w as crow ded to excess o n th a t n ig h i, a itliough m any o f th e lead in g M igaelites, o r C orcundaa, as th ey w ere th e n called, were

W h en C oun t V illa F lo r ^ u n pwy. posed P o n F cdro , th e audience stood op, a n d a socno o f ftformy cnthuyia'im en su ed ; th e shouts w ere repeatt^d an d ag a in h j tb e andth e fair sex lean t over th e boires, w aring tliéiv whito baodkcrchiofs in token o f tb e ir ^ a lo u a adherence io th e cause o f th e ir Im perial m as 1er.

17&8 ra th e r am used a t boariag , on m y re tu rn to tb o ioB, tb a t I h ad b een th e su b jec t o f several b e tj d u rin g tb e day . A s m y uniform w m o f a d ifferent colour from tlie Portngucec, an d bap- peoed to b e Tety conspicuous, m y appearance on th e fie ld oxcited surprluâ. I wa» n o t a natiTC it irss c lear ; tb e couo trv o f m y b lrtb , in conse* qxicncc, Iw a m e a m a tte r o f deb a te am ong some idler», an d seN’eral b e ts wore m ad e on tb e sub* ject. S pain n*as talctm ;^ a in s t tb e field b y many, who called u t tb e iu u w here I resided to ascertain tb c point, an d re tu rn e d to tbo ir respective bumes very 'wralbful w ith tho guiltless object o f tb e ir ansucccssful w^ger.

T h o vinlag;c w as now fo m m c n c b g , a o d as I b ad lo n g int«^nded to explore tb e wine district, v b ic b ap p ears Co i ts g re a te s t ad v an tag e during* th a t season. I q u itte d O porto . C o u n t V'iUa F lo r gave m e le tte rs to th e Grovernor o f tb e district» a n d to th o p rin c ip a l persons in th e nortborn prorinces, an d ray friend M a jo t B ernardo Sa accompanied m e a l i ttle way o n m y journoy.

T in s yonng officcr, who h as since risen lo h ig h diitinction , w as evcm th e n rem arkab le for th o e i te n t o f W s in tbrm ation an d the decision o f h is ch a rac te r; th e m ost uscfol quality a m an can p o sse« in u n se ttled tim e » " . D ia tin p n sh e d for h is ga llan t exertions in th e civil w ar w hich h ad deso lated th e T razo s M ontes, h ia c o n d i^ t in Oie following ycftT p roved th a t the sam e lii^ h sp irit b ad n o t forsaken h im u n d er advcree d reu jn - stanrtis. O u rfricn d ah ip w as form ed a t O porto, an d confirm ed a t L isb o n ; an d I shall hereafter allude to a curious a n d Bomevchat rom antic ad - reD ture whi^h occurrcd a t a la le rp e r io a , an d in which wc were b o th engaged.

O n leav ing O porto, 1 Tode on th ro u g h a valley, abounding in corn an d w ild g rapes, to Penaficl, a to rrn o f som e consideration, which gives i ts nam e to th e C oun t o f Penafiel, a Pee» o f th e realm - T h e eom m anderies linjoyod by thi* noble w ere annexed in p e rp e tu ity to hia house, an unusual deviation from th e gen era l practicc. O n th e following m orning I observed several hloclw o f g ran ite o n one o f th e h e igh ts above th e ro a d ; an d from th e ir situation, an d from th e re ^ ila r i ty o f th e ir pod tion , I conccive them to b e th e rem ains o f some anU ent s tru c tu re reaem bling o u r D tu id ica l tem ples.

P a ss in g a U rg e block o f stone, upon which

« 111 ia MW M inittei of

* m itre wa* ru d e l j c a n e d to m ark ih e boundary o f Bumc co n ren t lan d s, I e lruck ncross a wild m ocin tam 'trac t. T h e re 2 beheld ft o a tu ia l cxlii» b ilion o f th e m ost aw ful Idod . T h e ex trem e aad long-continued h e a t th a t prevailed i a P o rtu g a l d u rin g th e sum m er o f 1B27, was. I beliere, a lm ost uaparaD elcd ; tlie vijjcb w ere everywhere in ju red , in som e p laces destroyed , a a d th e agri* c u ltu re h ad universally su ftc rcd ; b u t d u rio g the la s t tw o daj** an ov id en t change h ad tak en place, t h e w eather w as hecom iog a io rc tem porate, and c louds o f a le a d e a h u e were g rad u a lly collecting Irom all po in ts o f th o horison. T h e y m uat have co n cca tra ted th e ir s tre n g th d u rin g th e n ig h t o f th e 2 6 th , fo r o a th e foUowiag m o ta in g th e sky resem bled a g re a t sea o f in k ; deep block masse* D vcrhuog o u r heads, g radually s in k ing low er and lower, ^ d a fa io t a io an in g w ind aône ioter* iu p tc d th e heavy repose th a t h a d se ttled upon th e lace o f th e ea rth . A t le n g th th e «torn» b u r s t ; n o t uuhered in b y aay lig h t showers, n o t even by any warDiag-droj>s, b u t descending a t onco an d verticaUy, in sheets o f w ater, as if h u rle d b y an offeaded G o d ag a in s t a w orld which h e had resolved to subm erge again.

I h ad never seen so fierce a conflict o f th e e lem ents. T hose hills, a few m inute« before so d est i tu te o f wat<?r th a t I tdiould have h ailed w ith p leasure the m ost trifling rill, now resounded

n itb th e ru a r c l' a thousand to rren ts ru sh in g jm peiuously io to tlic valley ; and m y pa th , which led al(m ^ a n a tu ra l clxanncl bc tw cea tw o a l onM Lecam e tlie m ain a rte ry th a t iceo irod these tr ib u ta ry stream s. A s th o tvater wus rising fast, an d every m om ent asauioed m ore th e cha- iM te r o f a ra g in g to rre n t, I endeavoured to escape from its vortex b y tu rn m g m y m ule an d re trac ing m y s tep s ; b u t th e s tre n g th o f th e eu rrcn t an d th e te rro r o f th e anim al, w hen required to stem it, ren d ered tKia m anccuvrc im* practicable, an d 1 wa^ th erefo re ob liged to con* tinue m y am phibious jo u rn ey till I found an outlet.

H av in g ex trica ted m yself from th is mastef* flood, I becam e involved w ith th e lesser «itreamfj th a t, dash ing a round mo, tu m b lio g from c rag to crag , and crossing e ;^ h o ther in a ll d irectionti presen ted a m a ^ i l ic e n t scene o f uproU ' and con* fusion. I called to th e m uleteer an d A jitonio, who b ad lingered in th o re a r , to w arn them from the m ain cliannel, wlklch m ig h t have been dangerous to them< am i w ould probably have been fd tal to th o lo ad ed mxile», b u t m y shoftts were drow ned in th e volec o f m any water«. Some o f o u r lu g g a g e w as carried uff, an d h ad the m undjiiioii continued we m u st have lo s t th e whole ; h u t fo rtunate ly th e bky re len ted , in mercy to a coun try w hich Lad so lo n g w ithered

K 3

imdcF i u b o m m g eye, an d w«is now visited by• s till m ore troinondoua infliction.

I cu tc red the iu n a t A m u a u le in a doleful p lig h t, an d creeping; in to a corner b y tb e kiUJien- fire fe ll fa s t a d e e p ; in little m ore tb a n a n i ic a r ib e raoletecr m ade bU appearance. A lle r a reasonab le in te rv a l I \\islied to renew oiy j<mmey, b u t th e cputery was so iJTcat, tb a t I g;aTe way to pnbUe opinion, wbich attaailed m e in th e shape o f soaked an d m utinous domestic^.

S peak ing of n a tu ra l ezUbilionB, a fa ll o f loeusta is, Hcyond a ll com parison, th e m ost awful I bave ev er secD, an d I m ay porhapa b e cxcused fo r di* g ressing from th o im m ediate th read o f m y n a rra tive to g ive m y readers some account o f th a t d read fu l scourge, which is considered in C3i>lern a n d sou thern couotrles tb e m ost u n E ^ In g mani* featatiun o f th e w rath o f G od. T ravelliiig along (h e w estern coast o f Africa, 1 once bebeld th is te rr ib le indiction. T b ese creU ures fe ll in th o u sands an d to n th o tu an d s uround n s an d upon us, on th e sands a long w hich wc we?e rid ing , and o n tb e sea th a t wan b ea tin g a t o u r f e e t : ye t we were rem oved from th e ir m ost o | i p r e * s i T e in - fiuenco ; Sor a few h u n d red y ard s to oxxx righ t, darken ing tb e a ir , th e g re a t innum erable host caiue on slowly an d steadily , adTancing in a d irect line an d in a m igh ty m oving column. T b e fell of lopusti from th is cen tra l column w as so great,

CB. l I lO F < L L OP L0CT;<T8. 8 3

th a t when a coyr, d iicc tly u n d er tho line o f flight, a tt« n p fin g ineffectually to g raze in th e CcW, ap* proncbeH Her m outli to Ihe g rass , there ro se im- m ediatply sd dense a swaroi th a t h e r h ead was for th e m om ent alm ost conccaled from s ig h t ; and as «he m oved along, bew ildered liy th ia worse th an E g y p tia n p la ^ ie , c louJs o f locusts toao u p nnd<.'r h e r fee t, v isible r r e n a t » d istanec, as clouds o f d u s t v h e n se t in rootion b j tlie w ind on a s tm n y day. A t th e extrem ity o f th o field I saw tlie hui>bandmon b en d in g over th e ir s ia& , and gazing v i th hopeless eyes upon th a t Lost o f deatlx which sw ept like a destroy ing an g e l over thii la.nd, a n d consigned to ru in all th e prospects o f th e y e a r ; for w herever th a t colum n w inged ils fiigh(> b e n e a th i ts w ithering influence th e golden glories o f th e harvest p e rb h ed , an d th e leafy honours o f tlic fo rest dieappcared. T h e re stood those ru in e d xuen, s ilen t an d m otionless, ovei> whelmed w ith th e m agn itu d e o f th e ir calam ity, y e t consduus o f th e ir u t te r in ab ility to control i t ; while, fa r th e r on, w here som e woodland lay in the im m ediate lin e o f th e ad ran c in g column, h e a th se t on fire, a n d trees k ind ling in to a b laze, test!* fied th e gen era l h o rro r o f a r is ita tio n which the ill-fated in h ab itan ts endeavoured to avert b y sw h a frigh tftil rem edy. T hey believed th a t the sm oke a ris in g from th o b u rn in g (b re s i an d ascending in to th e air, would im pede th e d irect m arch o f the

column, th row i t in to conftision, drive th e lonaeti •ont tf> Wft, an d thuB dclW er th e country from th e ir de«oIatm g presence.

I t was an awful, arid indeed a pa in fu l w cne, a o d I shall never fo rg e t it . Y e t, porhap«, there wa« n o t one o f tho se whose L lig lited fortunes I th e n eom m ôratcd who w ould no t have c o m í*

d cred m y o ss^ s io a tie n well p leasing to Iheir G od, an d few, perhaps, who would havo scrupled to a tta ck joe. as a C h ris tian dog , i f I h a d been unarm ed an d u n a tten d ed b y a tru s ty band.

I was now d e ta in ed fo r th e re s t o f th e d ay a t A m aran te , a tow n so called from th e flo\>er of th a t nam e, afrcr tlio poctica l fashion o f tbc land . T o bojfuilo th e tim e I v is ited an officer fo r whom I h ad le tte rs , an d found him p lay in g a t ca rd s ia a m iserable a p a r tm e n t; h e offered to show m o the “ lions,” and we aBcended to g e th e r a ne ighbouring hill. In th e valley below th e re h a d h e e n som e h a rd fig h tin g betw een th e Im peria lis ts n n d e r C oun t V illa F lo r , an d th e M iguelites com m anded by D o n A ntonio SiW cira. who w ere finally ro u te d an d d riv en back to tlie w estern wilds o f th e T raaos M ontee. T races o f the conflict were s till xisible on th e su rro u n d in g b u ild ings an d in th e broken windows o f an atljo in iag convent, w here I x isited th e m onks, who show ed m e th e in te rio r o f th e edifice. T h e ir gardens, s tr ik in g only from some fine lig h t'co lo n red ced ar tr re s , w ere neglected, and

DiaTiy p a r ts o f th e b u ild ing wero in a m iserab ly d ilap idated sU tc ; b u t Üi<? friara ploatied in excuac th e ir d im inished revcnuca, an d fltud th ey h a d in consequeacc ^ c a tly re d u c c d th e ir num here. ï'i 'om th o windovra o f a monk*» ccU we enjoyed a m agnificent view o f th e jneoTttidns, covered w ith wood, sloping dow n to th e T am eg a , ft noble Inth e evening xvu ad jou rned to th e house o f Dom TaTera. H e w as a fine o ld nob le , ftad h ad two daugh ters, l>otli agreeable, ar>d one very p re tty : th e yo iu igcst a an g aomc o f h e r n a tive melodies w ith ta s te an d feeling. Rhe ohscrved, archly, th a t sho could n o t speak F r e n d i ; b u t I suspect she only feigned ignorance for th e purpose o f hearing m y Portuçueae , which w as a ludicrous m ix tu re o f th e tw o Pen in su la r la jiguagcs. She was lively and am usin|f, a n d ask ed m e m any questions about E n g lish society.

O n th e 2 títh I began th e ascent o f (hñ M arou, accunpan ied b y th e Colonel, m y friend o f th e p re vious dfty, an d an escort, a neceas ery precaution ag a in s t th e la s t in su rg en t G uerilla , s till lingering am ongst th e recesses o f th a t savage pass. A t the en d o f th e first atage, a soldier gave the C olonel a lis t o f th e rebels, b y which i t appeared th a t a p rie s t com m anded the troop , w ith a surgeon fo r h is lieu ten an t, who ofll cíate d in a double capacity, au d db^penacd hia blows an d hia m edicines w ith eq u a l succesa. W h en we h ad i-eaclied

a coostdcrablc b ^ i^ h t ll ie ColoncVs h o rw bocaosD suddenly averse to any ftirthcr p ro longalioa o f A c journey , an d som e uni^quivoca) symptom* ol* dissatisfaction, tu rn e d ro u n d an d rro ttcd back w itli i)is m abler.

I w as now e n te rin g tb c T ra io s M ontes, a prp- v in rc in h ab ited b y a vc iy pccuJiar people, restless, in trep id , an d asp iring , th e only p a r t o f th e native p o p u la tio n which h as TOt^ned i ts o rig inal cha- rae te r, unaffcctcd by th e lapse o f cen tu ries; a fine m anly race, posscsbiag tlic savage v irtue* in periection , th e firs t lo act, an d th e la s t to subm it: th e y a re th e C ata lan s o f P o rtu g a l. Tlxe sp irit o f t l ie ag e h as respected th e ir m ountain barriei-s, no miKlera refinem ents iiave enfeebled (heir native hard ihood, ap d th e y still differ in raanoers, feeling, an d even in ex ternal appcerance, from th e ir tryracn, an d from tb e re s t o f th e E n ro p c a n comm un ity . T h e g rea t insurrection , th en rercn tly appeased, h a d o rig ina ted p a rtly i n a rea l affectio n fo r th e a n tie n t system , an d p a r tly in a sp irit o f exaggifrated a ttachm en t to th o Silveira family : so deep w as tb e ir devotion to th a t ilb fa te d house, th a t tho se p rie s ts who w ere opposed to th e revolt could n o t re s tra m th e ir excited parishioners, over whose m inds th e ir sU ghtest word h ad generally th e forec o f law. Y e t th e M arquis d e Chaves, th e chief o f th e Silveiras, was n o t a m an o f very vigorous in te llec t ; b u t h is fa th e r h a d been emi-

T i c n t l y lo rc d anfl rcrp ec to d thrcmgliOTjt th e prcw Yincc, an d iio »licceodcd to th e horodU ary tn ‘ flucnce. T h e peop le h a d h ccn undoubtecUy iitf-

p elled b y the roost gennine eothnsiaBio, ap d they fo u g h t under th e b an n er o f th a t chivalrous house w ith a ga lla jitry w hich claim ed th e praise, and ohla ined th e rc*«i>ect, o f every cand id opj>onenl. T h e p revailing sp ir it waa s till decidodiy hostile to the cotistitu tioa, an d th ey w ere w rith ing u n d er a sense o f recen t d efea t an<l ac tual h u n ilia tio ii ; b u t these feelings h a d l>een ffreatly m itig a ted hy th e Nrtse an d hum ane policy o f the conquerors.

D u rin g tlie C a ta lan H cvolalion in 1822, the U urels o f th e S p a n iih C onstitu tionalist* were soiled in b lood, n o t in th e blood o f m en fairly sla in o n the fie ld o f b a ttle , h u t m assacred coldly a n d dclibem tely a fte r th e victory h a d l>ccn obta in ed ; jnassacred because tliey h a d fo u g h t for th a t M i n g m onarchy which fi-oni th e ir earliest years they h ad b e e r ta u g h t l a revere, because th e y h a d s tru g g le d Io m ain ta in privileges inher ite d from th e ir ancestortj, a n d ab rogated w ith an in so len t d isregard to th e feelings o f a whole i>o- p u la tio n ; b u t m ore th a n all, because, as w n s o f C ata lon ia , th e y w ould n o t tam ely p erm it th e ex tinction o f h e r chcrished nam e, which ihc Spanish C ortes, thoee foes to eyerj* g rea t an d ancien t re- eoUeclion, w ould h a r e b lo tted o n t o f th e m ap of Spain. B u t in P o rtu g a l th e C onstitu tional leaders

o f 1Ö27 rcm cm bcrcJ, e>on in Ih c ho u r o f tTÌumpìîh a t tKoir defeated opponeots wctc fellow*couo- trym «n an d b ro thers.

I h ad now alm ost ascended the M aron : the 8un '0und)ng h e ig h ts were b o ld and bl<5ak, an d Iiaxtially seea th ro u g h th e m ists th a t were rap id ly hu rry in g over them . Theso m ountain* a ré composed o f g ran ite , an d th e ir »uinmits w holly d e s titu te o f tree s : th e vegeta tion , a t oil tim es scanty, h a d been so com pletely b u rn t b y a recen t fire, th a t th e grwiDd was b W k fo r m any m iles, a circum stance which increased tlxe n a tu ra l gloom o f the scenc, an d invested th e m ountain w ith an awful an d a]mc«t luncreal character. T h e T ra io s M ontee ia still th e favurite lan d o f the Valentcinefe, a race o f u icn tb a t have uiuch d e clined in num1>ers. T h ese V alenloines are bravos in h ab itin g th e w ildest p a r ts o f the cuim try, known to each o th e r b y certa in and to the iieigh- bourliood b y t h g r fearful rep u ta tio n : th e y style tbem selveö redrca&ers o f wrunga, an d some indeed are honourable, th o u g h mfsgui<led spirit», ac ting in (leñante o f la«', y e t tru e to an erroneous system o f im agined r ig h t. B u t th e m ajority liave degen e ra ted in to common niffianB, whose p ride is to jterfonn any fe a t how ever Ixazardoua, an d execute any crim e, howcTcr heinous, w ith greatev sp irit an d address tliau e th e r m en. In p a r ts o f the T raso s M ontes th ey fu rm alm ost a separa te rlass.

aad Hr'fcat ih ü unds c f ju stice by terrify ing wit* TMsscfi an d in tim id a tin g o r ccrrupt.ing th e local aü thoritiee . F id e lity to th o ir em ployers is p e rhaps tlxcir cmly redeem ing T i r t u e . T h ese bravo* were form erly dependant on pertain cobies, whose m andates th e y ftilfiUed w ith a devotion bordering upon heroism , an d in riilu rn enjoyed thu ir counie* nance an d support. T h o ex ten t to Mhlch a noble could p ro tec t tiiüiu « a s lo n g considered a fa ir crite rio n o f hitf personal in fluence; an d thi; aum bev atta£hed to th e service o f hlB house waa a p o in t o f honour jea lously observed. T h is system pro- v a iled in th e T raao s M ontes an d in part* o f the E n tr e M in h o ; an d a lth o u g h the a lte red m an n e rs o f th e ag e an d th e im proved character o f th e provincial aobles h av e dissolved th a t sys- trm a tic connexioa. th e ie stiJl exists a s trong feeling o f p ro tection o a one hand, aad attachm ent on th o o thcr.

I n these >vlld district* th e sta te ly m anner* w hich characterized th o nobility o f th e feudal world are stiQ som etim es re ta ia e d am ong the E m ilie s o f th e g rea t. 1 have sa id th a t a strong feeling o f vassalage ex ists in th e ir dependant* } a h au g h ty iênsc o f superior b ir th divides these ao b les from th e re s t o f so c ie ty ; even in the bosom o f th e ir ow a families, an d whero their n earest affections a re engaged , a solemn and som ew hat u n b en d in g sp irit m arks th e ir aodal

h a b i ts ; indeed, w here th e o ld aaccstxal form s arc k e p t \T\> i a th e ir ancien t n g o u r, th e chil<3jen <he house in liiib it sejwiratc ap a rtm en ts in th e dia- ta n t w ings of the old ram b lin g m ansioa, an d , b n g a f te r th e perio d o f adolescence ha* elapsed, re ceive on b en d ed k rc c s the b lessings o f Iheif p a je c t# : th ey a re n o t p e rm itted to tak e tlielr m eaU a t ih c sam e boaxd w ith t b « i parent« , and m a s t not, in Ibcir presonre, rcm aia uncovered, ot even s it down w ithou t e T p re « perm ission. B u t a lth o u g h th e f k m i l i a T h ab its o f m odem life Kaxe n o t in v ad ed th o se ancien t an d p a tria rch al halls» Btill, w her« those Ihrras, th e legacy o f a p rim itive a n d w holly d iife ren t age, a rc th a s inflexibly m ain ta in ed , i t m ay b e ohticrved th a t th e esRenee oC tlio o ld I ’ortugucse honour is, generally speaking, prewTTed equally inviolate, and th e s ligh test felsehood o r dco«it is h e ld iu generous dUd&in.

B u t how ever s tr ic t the forras occasionaUy m ^ - U in ed , i a th e se an tiqua ted establishm ents, hc- ^ e e n p a ren t an d child, a g rad u a ted subord inatio n o f respcct ajipears to pervade the household ; a sim ilar hom age is exacted b y th e children from these l>cnealh them , an d a sim ilar s ta te observed. I n ro;my g re a t fam ilies, th e young lad y o f th e house, even w hen bhe m erely goes ou t to ta k e the air, is p receded b y ih c E scndeiro , o r sliield bearer o f th e fe m ily ; th o n g t b e now no lo n g er earricB th e shield , b u t only walks a few paces in advance

CH. Ht ] PROCRM O f WINR-MAKiKa 91

h is ehargo, w ith a aolomn aT.d in e a w re d step, Iw e h e a d c d , an d hom ing hi» h a t hu m U y m lus hand , 'fh eb c shicld-bearew , a ttached to noble f a r o i l i M , w ere form erly, h k c o u r ancien t esquire«, gentlem en h y W rlh, th o u g h fo r tl ic m ost p a rt g rea tly re d a rc d in c i r c n m stances,

F ro m tW h ig h est p o in t o f th e M aron I looked o re r snccessWe ra n g e s o f h ills, diTidod h y rich in te rven ing Talleys, which, in con eequence o f their g rea t elevation, re ta in e d a T e r d u r o tru ly refrw h- in g to eyes f a t i ^ e d h y ga?ing o n parch< d and •M thcred sccnery. 1 enlcrt^d V illa D eal tow ards evening, an d was l i o ^ t a h l y received h y th e G overnor. A fte r a bum ptuous breaJcfafct a t has palaee ©n th e followiTig m ornm g, I to o k leaxe, an d a o w n i> an ird th e Tni* de F o ra to h is house, w here h e showed wie a W ood s ta in ed dagger, ju s t tîken from a p e a sa n t; and sa id th a t fou r a ssass in v t ie r s h a d been com m itted d u rin g th e la s t m onth w ithin th e narrow lim its o f h is ju iisdK tion .

M urder* arc o f freqnen t ocrûrrcnce th ro u g h o u t th o T razc^ M ontes, an d particularly m th e neigh- h o u rhoed o f I ^ m c g o j h u t there , in a g rea t m ei^ mire, they re su lt from circum stances unconnected w ith th e lawless haW ts o f th o n ative jK>pnl»Uon. Swarm s o f labou rers rep a ir from th e dilTerent p ro vinces to th e banks o f th e D ouro , d u rin g ih c sum- m er. induced b y th e im m ense dem and fo r labour which exist* d u rin g th a t s e a ^ in th e wine-dis-

( tie t i an d ajQOngst t'hcm m any iDdlvuluals pro> »cribed b y tlie law iiiid safety, and , resid ing cWcfljr in sctaitered hu ts , a re seldom inepcctcd b y the local IT)answers.

I coixtinned m y jo u ro c r , accom panied b y tbe .Tuiz: we s to p p ed a t tb o house o f a substaTitial & rm cr, who uSVred u a |s;rapcs, wine, ao d a ll kinds o f refreshm ent. T h e d au g h te r c a s t m any airec- tiodatc glances on th e v oung taaglstxate, an d h e r p&reftts were c rid e u tly e la ted b y th e ilis tin c tio i v b ic h Liu v isit was supposed to eonfer on tb e laToily. 1 saw here, fo r th e dra t tim e, the laborious proccss t l ia t takes p lace before th e jiiice o f tL o g rap e is couTcrted in to th e rich beverage it a fterw ards bceom es: th e g rap es are f irs t tro d d en underfoot, an d th en pressed b y a la rg e bcs»a tig h ten ed b y a screw, till the {ruit is com pletely crushed^ a fle r w hich th e w ine is p o u red into g re a t casks, whore i t is le ft to ferm ent, and two o r th ree m onths subsequently the necessary q u an tity o f b ran d y is infused. M eanw hile the lees o f Ukc gr*T° -collected an d steeped in w ater, an d b e ia g again o b je c te d to tb e pressure o f the beam, g iy e o u t a lig h t, feeble w ine, gen©* rally sold to th e lower orders. T h e lees them - •selvcs a re g iven to pigs, o r applied as m anure to tb e llcldu.

'l l i e g rap es were ly ing in heaps, Mithin an enclosed space n e a r th e &rmcr*& house, a n d scve*

c i l . í í » 0 COM l’A N Y O V O PO B TO . ^

r$x GalÜcians würo eaxefuUy tread in g th em d o w n : f r o m b í t in the m orning till twulve a t n ig h t thei*e poor m en continue im m ersed u p to t l o Icncc* in th e cold ju ice , an d receivc a very low rem uneration w hen th e ir comfortless laak u accom plished] ye t th ey subm it w ithout & m urm ur to th e ir cheerless lo t, a re gra tefu l fo r any m ark o f k in d n rs i, an d beg u ile th e ted ious hours b y » inking in cooccTt a low, p la in tire , nnd affecling hym a. GalUcian« are a W y s em ployed in th is s tage o f th e process, fo r th e Urely P o rtuguese cannot en dure such painful an d continued exertion ; indeed th ey consider the patience o f th e ir h um bler neighbours a llied to Btnpi<lity,— reg ard them w ith contem pt, an d confidently a sse rt th a t G od A lm igh ty first m ad e m on an d th en GalUcians. D r. Bucldtvud w ould have to ld them th a t i f they could su b stan tia te th is aseertion, every analogical infcrciice xfould te n d to j>rove th a t the Gallicians, contem ned o f m an indeed, a re no t th e m ost despised o f G cd.

H ere th e J u iz to o k leave, b u t desired a g u a rd to escort m e, as , h e s;ud, the £>easant€ w ere cxas- p e ra tcd a g ^ s t the E n g lish . T h e prosperity o f th e pesisaotry o f these d istric ts is so m uch con- Dcctcd w ith th a t o f th e W in e C om pany o f O porto th a t I vfaa n o t su rp rised a t the ejdstence o f a very hostile feeling tow ards th e charter, an d consequently tow ards th e coun try w ldch h a d beat

94 FOKTtRUESE FAMILY. [CH. llj.

t io o |« to «upport it. I m ixed, however, vcty generally w ilh th e peasant», b u t never perceived th e sligbtcBt dis}>ceition to m olest m e . A « I ^p ro fcchcd E eg o a 1 d e ria te d from the highway fmd ro d e across a narrow m u le-lra ik . T h e sccoe w as lively ; th e sun wiw Betting o re r field» purf4e w ith th e v in e ; an d g roups o f vintager*, gaily dreîsed, were gath erin g th e g rapes, sa d w nging th e v in tag e soQg.

O n tb e following m orn ing I visited th e g rea t warchou«e o f th e Com pany, th eu fdled w ith casks o f b randy, and w as to ld th a t seven pipes o f wioo Are often dietiUed to prodocc a single p ip e o f th a t wpirlt. A t tw o o'clock 1 d in ed w ith th e Ca- p itan M or. B esides h is fjin ily ciiclc, consistiog o f a wife, a sb te r , a p re t ty dxugh ter, ab o u t s«ven- teeo year» o f age, an d seTcral younger children, S enhor M acarao, a» in te lligen t young m au. was preseckt, accom panied b y a gen tlem an who had pub lished some hnm orous poetry , a o d waa very rehgious, very en te rta in in g , Tury flighty , and very peculiar. D u rin g d in n er I h a d twice p ar-

o f a d ish o f rice, an d ailerw arda fuaad , w ith som e s u rp r i^ , th a t un ac t so triv ial, und so wholly unprem editiitec]. h ad g lveo m e a v io .-

gulac degree o f p opu la rity am ong th is am iable a^nd sim ple p ^ t y : i t v 'as conaidered a m ark of defcrene« to P o rtuguese tasfes> a tid an a d o p tiO B

o f P o rtuguese h;*bits, an d th is Botion was pe>

CB. lU .] LAIÍBGO. ^

culiarly gratify ing lo iheix national fw iin g , an d sure to conciliate th e ir aüwti<«u5.

I n th e cT«nÍDg 1 ad jou fncd to tb o house o f ScphoE F erre ira , a g en ile rn tii o f la rg e fortune, who rcc«i>ed m e with th e u tm o st h o sp ita lity . H e had, in m any respecta, ad o p ted E n g lish custx>ms; iDuch o f h is lu m itu fo ^ a s K ng lish , an d th e china in h is house w as o f B ritish m aDufaclurc, a n d m ost lofitly. J B lq> ttlicrc5 an d on th e fo llo w in g day lodo to L am ego, accom panied h y Senhor Anlo* niao , h is sou, a qu ick an d lively l>oy, au d M r, C arey, h is tu to r, a gen tlem an o f th e C atholic per* guatoJQ. W e crossed Iho D onro, an d le a v in g tkc TraiOB M ontos, eu to rcd B tira , w hero wc found the roa<l good b u t h illy , a n d th e m ountain* on cftch aide fo re ro d w iü i vines in th e h ig h es t s ta te o f cu ltivation . W o sto p p ed a t tJio house o f & youog nohle, who inform ed m o f K in g Ferdi* nand’s d o p a rtu ie for C at alonia. H e h a d a clerer, an d th o w orld said, a p re t ty sistCT, b u t, as she w ould n o t irjdulffc r o y C Q T Ío * ity b y appealing , wo ro d e o n w ith l i ttle delay, th ro u g h a h ca ry shower, to L am cgo, an d a ligh ted a t tb c house of Senhor Joaq u im d e C astro d a F onseca c Sousa, a noble o f a n tie n l fam ily, an d fa th e r o f Senhor Macarao, th e yonng m an whom I d in ed w ith on

th e proccding day-W e w ere shown in to a weU-furnished a p a rt

m ent, whei© 1 found, w ith equal jo y an d surprise.

a com fortaW c firo-plorrc, an d Uiat g rea test of e a rth ly b le s s in g in a firclces lan d , a fire. F rom U l open window I looked ou t upon a little garden, di> ided in to numbcric*« p a rte rre s an d g:uly dc* eo ra ted w ith flowers. 1 saw a fine M im osa growin g in th e open air, soroe specim ens o f th e large- IcaTcd O&taipa, and o f th e dafk-colonrcd Mudrun> h&iro, from tlse fi*uit o f which a wealc k in d of b ran d y is exbact^d.

S cnhor Joaiiu im was ab se n t w hen we first a r rived, b u t soon afterw ards appeared . H e liad pas^êd th e m erid ian o f life, b u t ev ident trace s of m anly I'c&uty were stiU discernible. H o u'as a m an who a t oncc en listed e re ry pre|>ossession iu hia ia ro u r, an d whuse countenance m ig h t b e considered an index to h is character, fo r i t was iiB ' possible to observe th e e ip rcssio n o f hia m ild intolH gcnt eye w itliout b e in g conxinced th a t i t could only em anate from a cand id an d honourable m in d ; nor could I h ear h im speak w ithout fee l' in g a t oncc th a t h e h ad lived in tlie b e s t society.

W c were jo ined b y th e faraUy p rie st a t dinner, about four o’c lo ck ; fo r in oonscquencc o f tho connexion whicli h as so long ex isted l>etween the B ritish an d th e P o rtu g u ese in h ab itan ts o f 'th e w ine-distrirt, th e d in n er is oflen h ere served u p a t a la te r hour thsko in o ther p a rts o f th o k in g dom . O n re -en te rin g tlxc draw ing-room I saw a b ia s in g f ire ; a handsom e N ew foundland dog.

ftnd a p u g , som nolent wpon th e hearth . T ld s comyJ joatioD o i d r h g h ts tran sp o rted m e to Knjf- land , an d 1 w ould h a rd ly liave exchanged P'^g. lire, an d in r arm c l i ^ , fo r the i*uins g f Palm yra.

W c re tire d c a r l r t o re s t. M v room was sp a cious, Mid h ad a. Hrepliiee, which, generally speakin g , ia ill lôrtugal ;i proof o f g rea t antiqu ity , as fireplaces, «Dec disused, were common am ong the P o rtU i^ eae in th(* early days o f th o mo- narchy. I d id n o t sleo^> im m ediately, Im t lay for a lo n g tim e su rvey ing m y a ]« r tm e n l b y the l ig h t o f th e lam p. E v e ry oVÔ't spoke o f an tien t desceikt. am i ruvived th a t tra in o i association so d ear to a o K nglishm an, an d so early im pressed on h is m ind. T h e » a lls were h u n g ro n n d wifli p o rtra its o f tlio old chiefs o f th e house : the bod, form erly reserved fo r s ta te occasioos, w as lofty, huDg w ith crim son silk, and conalructed a fle r the solid fasliiou o f o ther tim es; even th e fire place bore th e im press o f a eo n v in a l age, and m igh t liave accom m odatcd a la rg e circle around its am ple

hearth .A fle r b reakfast, o n tb o following day, w6

walked ro u n d Seohor Joaq u lm ’s grounds, and th en e:?ploTed th e tow n o f L am e^^ , which is very antient, fu ll o f p id u re sq u o beauties and old re main» o f a rt. F rag m en ts o f cap ita ls are h a lf bu ried in walls com paratively m o d ern ; and arches now Jcfid in to th e dw ellings o f th e poor, which

onec form ed a noble en trance to houiea belonging t o Chri^-lian» o r M oors o f d istinc tion ; fò t the Ciirislianf?, a t one period , im ita ted th e O rientai arrh itec tu ro so closely, th a t i t is often difficult to diRcnroinatc helweerk th e ir re^pcctire buildings. T lw bukoo ics a n d wooden framo-wor): around th e irindow s w c b c a u t i r u l l v ca rred in M oorish ta*tp, th e ba lustrades tw isted, an d th e U tt ic « richly ornam ented. T h e houses are h ig h and overhang ing , an d th e s tre e ts narrow ; hu t Üiis re ry w ant o f b read th lieighteDs th e picturesCfM efleet.

H is F.xcellency ied m e to an a n tie n t chtireJ^ tlm P o rtu g u ese K states, th o moioorabie

C o rtes o f L am ego, are said to have m e t for the firs t tim e. K ea r th e door is %a iron cross, cu t ia th e form ge®««idly used b y th o T em plars; aiud thi« h a i induced a belief th a t th e b u ild ing was once a ttached to th a t o rd « . T h e cnclcrior has i>e€n whitewashed, a n d th e effect in con(#eqxKtwe g e n t ly in ju red . T h e in te rio r derives io t^rest so lely fi-om its aeitlquity, an d i ts g rea t hi«loric<ü recolleciiona, b u t is i»o confined, t h a t th e aum bor o f persons a^Rombled i a cortes m u st have been extrem ely Huiltcd.

S enhcr Joaqu im th en led u s to th e s ite o f aa o ld cburch, u n d e r th e b e lk f th a t i t s till existed, b u t th e p roprietor, to Ids e ternal d is ^ a c e b e it sakl, h ad recently eri^sed every vestige o f tb e iÀà

: i t WM, how erer, g ra te fu l io «<? tlw? p a trio tic sorrow wliich thw* Teiicrsible uoUIo d is- plii}'od wliec h e discort'i'ed th a t uae o f tlte rao«t curious an d m ost auti(*nt TDomimcnt^^ o f ik e Icing- dom b a d been destroyed.

T L c old wails o f tlw town arc p a rlia lly p re served : tbero is * fine i^ racen ic tow er, an d a m agnificent resevvoif o f water.

Senhor A ntooino an d M r. Can?y w ere becoming anxious to re tu rn to K egoa. as we were cng;«fcd to d ine w ith Senhor F e rre ira i an d Senhor J oa* q u im oifering to accompany us, we ncvv re traced our ste^w. As we passed th ro u g h th o tow n I was xuuH:\ irajwesBed b y the re sp tc t an d aiTee- t io e w ith w hich sU clause» w cm ed io reg ard th is p o p u la r p o h k , for h e wa« g ree ted -unWer« sally, a« d in d irid u a ls seem ed j»ratifted » h e a e rc r h e addressed th em ; an d th is w as evidently no t th a t hom age which th e poor “ h e a r t would f'ila deny W t d are not,” U it the genom e expression of amvero attachm ent. l*he people are o ften {ond of th e ir re s id en t FidaJgo«, an d espceiaUy o f those whose nam es have been hascled down Ixom fa ther to son fe r m anv generations. T h e je a lo u s j w ith which th ey are som ctim ea viewed p re ra ils cliiefly am ong th e m iddling classes.

Senhor Jottqoiin tool: lea»e o f n s a t Kegoa, an d wo rc p ^ re d t« llic hcAise e f Senhor F erre ira , K here we dined . M v « ile r ti i iu in f friend the P o e t

>2

was one o f tlie p a rty , a n d ex p a tia ted freely on gen era l «ulyects, Im t reti*cated w ith a ludicrous deg ree o f cireunispoction ftom any topk* which Iw rc, howe%er d istan tly , on p ub lic affairs. H ia conversation w as peculiar, an d chftraeteiislic o f ft s ta te o f eocnety in w hich ft g enera l eam cslncss W)d com m unity o f fee ling p re ra ils on religion« subjects, a n d w here, in consequence, re lig io n not u n freq u crtly give« a s trong eolouriog to the eon- vcrsalion o f th e hour. I l i s w it was m ingled w ith ft devotion b o rd erin g upon m elancho ly ; gay and sp a rk lin g in conversation, e re n to cxccss, his m ost b r illia n t eaJbes were generally concluded b y som e q u a in t ftpd sadden ing allusion to tb e instiv* b il i ty o f hum an Ufe. 1 w ill re la te one o u t o f m any instances o f th is peculiar h a b i t o f m ind. A gue»t observed to him , " T h is E n g lish F idalgo w ill soon re tu rn to L isbon , an d m ay p e rh a p s have

O p p o rtu n ity of expressing your wishes on ftftncerta in aubjeet to th e G overnm ent." H e laughed, an d m ade aomc ra th e r jo ru la r re p ly ; then , «ud- d en lv checkiog hiraself, said, w itli th e strongest em phasis, a n d th e roost ferven t expression o f countenance, “ A h . i f he could p u t in a w ord for mo w ith the G o v erim en t o f H eav en !” T liis observation , wldch, in roany poUshcd eirelea o f th e w orld, w ould have given b ir th io the faeti- 4 ioua aneer, d id no t producc ft smile, o r c rc n sa expression o f »nrpiise, in any ind iv idual o f the party .

d m n er was ex ce llen t; tb o goblcfs were B ohem ian, la rge , deep, tipped w ilb gold, an d woll calculated for the copious d rau^ lils o f tlie old bai*oni&{ T h a t day waá consecrafed to tbeG uard iau A ngels, an d wc d ran k M>nee relig ions tnacts tb a t h ad reference to tlie lr sU 'pow erful protection . Afterwfirda tb e liea ltb s o f Individuals w ent round, an d th e "Esperanza d e C asa, wbiclt I p roposed in honour o f young A ntonino, was tb e la s t d ru n k an d the m obt app lauded . D u rin g d inner tb e conversation was flowing an d SU9- tainec?, ,g lid ing easily from subject to sulêct) b u t always re ta in in g a c liu a c te r peculiar to tb e tim e an d country. T h e perscms assem bled a round tbe hospitably board o f o u r H ijfliland b e s t fam inhcd am ple m a tte r fo r curious obeervaiioo. In h ab itan ts o f tbc Traôft M onti's, an d in tim ately connected by th e stron!^ tie s o f k in d red and constan t intercourse w itb th e wild peop le an d w ild cbief* ta in s o f tlia t ba l f* civilized b u t m ost in te re a tirg country, y e t b ro u g lit in to d irect couiinunioation wttli th e commerce o f E n g la n d an d O porto, fbey were singularly placed betw een th e o ld world and th e new ; W tw een tlie m erchants o f t l ia t flourish* in g city, im bued w ith a ll tb c notions o f the p resen t day, find d»e clans o f the Tm *os M onies, adhering with rig id fidelity to tlie h ab its an d opinion* o f tbe past. T h ese clreumsfanees n a tu rally influenced tb e couTLTsation; ;ind tbu s the

an d long-ileiceodcd feixilt» o f tl»eir moBTi- tw n oeij-hboura, th c ii b c tc d itiry attaohm ent« to p«rticuU r families, an d iLe rcinarkable and o ft« i rom antic cventB to wliicJi thoTT sociid s ta le h ad given rij»o in form er tim es, a n d in t l ic civil con- i i c t ju s t supprcflfiod, tft)no W ended in tb c irc o n - T c r s a l i o D , strange ly eoougt« w ith tb e general politics o f E u rope , an d th e general intereal» of th e day . T bo s ta te o f aocioty I describe ia ««- »cnlijiUy a trausiiio n aU lc, an d w ill probaW y be anknow n to th e n ex t geoetalion , *heri tbe ex is ting; inanners o f tiie T ra fo s M ontes sbaU b a te paasL'd aw a y ; b u t u n d er tlie aspect society th en « id th e re aisuniod, I tlio u g h t i t peculiarly fa- ▼onrable to ih e developm ent o f th e l)c rt p rin ciple* o f o u t n a tu re , 'H ic progre*s o f citilizalion h ad subdued , in m y am iable friend*, all th a t w as h a rsh an d barharoxk» iu th a t alm oet feudal s ta te o f society which still prevailB in the T r t « « M onies, h u t h a d no t acquired sulKcient s trco g th io b reah down th a t exa lted sp irit w hirh make« rc U ^ o n an avowed an d influenciog consideration m th o m oet common transactio-ns o f lifo, o r to im pair tpateria lly the chivalrou* atfaehmentfe o f a form er age. T h ese h igh-w rought feeling* wero shown, r o t only in th e oeeasional elevation of t*heir aeniim erits, an d in tlic energy and u tle r absence o f rc sc rre which m arked the delivery of th e ir opinions, b u t also in «hat som ewhat poetical

CH. in ,] PFSCKNT or Tue DOCBO. 103

form o f cxprpsM on wliich oflcn oharacterize» tlie h ab itu a l l a n jp i a ^ o f a pooplc during tlie ro* znactie an d fcu<l*l perio d o f their hi«tf>ry, l l i a t uD rcstrained expreseioa o f feeling upon particu la r poiat*. which in a m ere adx'aoced ( tag^c o f fio<nrty v o o ld \>e to o u lieu reg a rd ed aa th e eclhoblasfu o f th n h o j, or th e ioeincerc p r o f e s d o D o f the desi|ôhig RiaTi o f th e world, w as n e ith e r aoiiled a t n o r »uspectcd, because th e sentimenC found jDore err lew an « h o in pvery bosoiD. an d was in accordance w itli the prev tu llii^ symîatlues o f the public mlncL

A fter a p leasan t v is it a t Senhor F iT rcira’s, dkiring which h e h a d paid m e e i t r y a tten tio n th a t th o m ost d d ic a te kindness could suggeat, an d M r. C a re y an d A ntonino h ad shown lue every scene th a t poe»>esAcd in te re s t in tlic neigh* bourhood, I q u itte d llie ir fam ily w ith reg re t.

T h e m urn ing wa£ dcUghtful, there w as a o t a cloud o n the sky, an d the w ater was o f a d eq ) g reen uolour, as I en te red th e b o a t which was to waft^ m e down th e s tiea in to O porto , I h ad <\c6ired m y servant to engage a boat, w ith the necessary com plem ent o f m en, b u t w hen I reached th e shore. 1 found, to my surp rise a n d w ith some cmbaTras&ment, th a t Seidior F e rre ira h a d p rov ided m e h is Iw at and h is own boatm en, h a v in g a rran g ed th a t th ey shou ld convey mo to O porto , a tw o days’ cxpoditiou £rom h is country

hou^c. I reDion5lra.ted w i(li liirn in v;úii ; l»c i(isie»tcd on rav coropliancr, witL all tbeT rann th o f I l ig li la a d IiosjjíU líly ; an d w hen 1 arrived at O porto th e irt«n absolutely r tfu sc d to rvctfive any rem uneration a t in y bands, s ta tin g th a t th ey had received tlw m ost positivo in^truetions to tlia t cffeet.

T b e bauka 'to re hilly, a ^ d the w indings o f llio r i v r r exhib ited a succession o f p leasing land* scapcs : tcrraeo ro se above torraee, and th e Tincff )>cg;inning to assum e tb e b rig h t au tum nal tin t, fo rm ed a Uvelj co n trast to th e g rey olive and darli cork th a t stood iu the back g ro u n d b u t aftor wo had le ft th e C om pany's d is tric t th e soil was e ith e r less fertile o t lew im proved, a n d wood« o f fir an d chestnu t were su b stitu ted for th o vine. 'I'ow ards tliO m iddle o f the day we wont down one o f th e rap ids, an d en te red a fino pastt, w here the rivor, dñep an d d a rk , erceps sloT^ly th rough its narrow channcl, hem m ed in o n both skies by bla^^k ;ànd ioaccessible rock» o f g ran ite , iron, and basa lt,

T h e en trance in fo thi* strilting raTine was foi*mer1y g u ard ed b y a M oorish which s till Irowns over the w ater. T fiere is a superbtition eonnt'cted w ith th is râstlc, cummon to m any o f lh% old Mooribh to w ers; th a t o f the M oira E n cantada, o r cnchan tcd M ooress, a superstition well know n an d widely cred ited in p o rts o f Por-

t jg a l . T h e poasaoU y believe th a t, a lth o u g h th e MoorÍBli race is extinct, the M oorisli pow er Las no t ftltogelLor cca«cd ; fo r th a t he re , an d in alm ost every tow er w here th e Saracens oncc ru le d w ith feudal Bway, ao cnchanted M oorcsa s till haunt« tb c apot, an d ho vert» round th e undiscovered treasures o f tlie casOe. L a s t relic au d representative o f a d ep a rted people, and , since tb c dresiry- day o f th e ir expulsion, sole guardian o f tb e ir buried wealtL, she s tan d s a lin k betw een the living an d the d e a d ; and , superior to m o rta l destiny, deiies a like the lapse o f ag es an d ib e stroke o f d e ilL . T h o u g h b ound b y some m ysterious tie to a hL*allieii au d once hoBtile race, th e re i* no llcrccncas in h e r loeod o f u ú p d ; there is no te rro r in h e r look ; for w hen, a t th e earliest dawn o f day , th e l ig h t dcvf spang les the m ounta in an d tb e rock, an d again w hen the se ttin g sun e»hcds i ts la s t m elancholy glories on the M oors’ un ten an ted abode, she is seen clad in tb c flowing garm en ts o f h e r race, lean ing against some b roken arch, some ru in ed laouam en t of national glory, as one who m ourns b u t seeks n o t to avenge. S he shuns th e g lare o f day, b u t does n o t fly from those who cou rt h e r ; sometimes she weaTes hei* spells a round a favoured ind iv idual aud shields him from m ischance, an d yields him a po ition o f h e r buried gold. I t is n o »in to seek a M o ira ; an d in

» 3

r e lu in fo r h e r im a g in e d k in d n e ss a n d p i'o lo d ijig care , a n d aa i f in sorrow f o t th e i r f a th e rs ’ cruel in ju r iw a g a in s t h e r M cxnish anc^lOT8> th e pâ* m n try a to n e fo r p«* t m isdeeds b y p re s e n t love. T h e w ild b ra u ty o f th e ru io w as p e rh a p s ra - h an ced b y Ü iis s a d b u t p ic a s in g le g e n d . A n d now e m e rg in g from ih c <leH).e> th e r iv w '¿gain e x p a n d e d , a n d w c p aa se d th ro a g h a su(vr«M on o f g e n t le r Kccnes. I b e ii n a tu ra l heautpiiîgÍT tr'ricd b y th e t in t s o f th e s e t t in g su n , a n d , islill l a t ^ , by t h e so il fu ll l ig h t o f t b f m oon.

W e arris 'cd la te in tlie e re o ÍD g jit a collection o f m ieerab le h u ls , s itu a te d a t th o confluence o f tw o riv e rs , a n d ca lle d E n t r e KÍi>s, w here, d is em b a rk in g . w c m ade o u r w ay w ith som e dÜScnlty to tb e in n , w hich w as a lre a d y f u l l ; b u t on o u r a r r iv a l ft new J í t í s Í o u o f th e te r r i to ry w as v o ted e a p c d ie n t. I n th e m e a n tim e w o o n to red a ce n tra l room , in to w h ich a ll th e o th e r a p a r tm e n ts opened . I n th e firs t a m e n d ica n t f r ia r r rp o s e d , r ic h in th e K ^ u ia it io e o f a p a m p e re d goose, b u t h is M in tly s lu m b ers w ere a t onoo d e r la ro d in v io la b le : in th e n e i t a p e d la r sn o re d , b u t, m o st u n s tru p u lo u s ly dÍBturl>cd b v oiar la n d lo rd , a n d a la rm e d lo r th e sa fe ty o f a b a r re l o f in k d e p o s ite d in th e ce n tra l room , h e m a d e a su d d e o in ro a d u p o n u s, a n d c a rrie d o ff hi« sa b ie goods w ith a n a i r o f dc* fiance. F ro m th e th i r d p ac ed fo rth a c rea tu re , vhoffc lo n g sh a g g y h w fe ll over b is face , an d

eíTcftually conccaled ü s features ; a bulkv non* dctcripC, «urelv not a man, though much approaching to the mortal shape. Affcr these monstOTs had been ftuccessirely CThiWted, I paid a visit to the kitehcn-fire, where I found th« women ecarccly more human than Ihe m o n ; upon w hkh I retired to rest dismayed, and beeamc tlie property o f mosquitos, fleas, and that little blftck v e m in ‘ inter poUtas non nomi- nandnm.'

W e le ft E u tr c Kioa th e Ibllowing day ; b u t he re , as M rs. H adiU ifc w ould say, m y mauu- Bcript fails—i t is not, however, h lo tte d w ith fears, b u t only illegible, so th e rcm sdndcr o f th is expedition m u st b e a b lan k , an d m y readers uhall have a lin lf holiday.

l l i e approach to O porto was s t r ik in g ; ws arrived a t n igh t, a n d th e lig h ts seen first in the distance inercased in brilliancy a s we drew near, an d were refliicted in lo n g lines across th e water. A b wc p assed th e C ustom s t saw an instance o f th a t sarcastic hum our so characteristic o f the lower cla&scs o f the d istrict. T heo iS ccr a sk ed the Itoatm en w hether ih ey carried any goods. “ N o," th ey replied , " b u t aF i< lalgo ;'— th e m an bowed,— “ a a d a clevcr one," tliey continued, “ fo r h e Speaks E ng lish ." T h e m an m ad e a m ore pro* found ol>eÍ6anec. “ So m nch th e m ure respect is due ,'’ h e re p lie d ; and suppoeiag mo a Portu*

giicsc, ^«^parted moph iinpresbed llir iinusu»! b&tcnt o f m y atía inm ect» . So Icriu inafcd my CTCUfbion in to tLe T razos Montcis.

'iluDUgliWjt th is tou r I ex|>ericnecd th e moet unbounded hospitality from the natives, who overw tülracd m e willi k in d inTitfttiona, an d were ooly anxioiia to p ro long m y stay a t Iheir houses, a n d enliven i t h y all th e m eans in th e ir powcr. T lie local au thorities no t only facilita ted m y pro* g ress th ro u g h the country in various m odes, bu t often cíitcrtaÍLcd m e sum ptuously, a n d gen&- rally , o n m y departuvi', accom panied m e eomc luiJes on m y jouincy- 1 experieiic id tb c sam e )<indnoss an d a tten tio n from individuals and irom oQicial men in cTcry p o r t o f th e kiugdom , t i l l th e g rea t revulsion o f fee ling ag&inst the E n g lish , wliich took place Mlurí-ng the revolution th a t e levated D om M iguel to th e throne.

C H A T T E R IV .

i n t h o r i e * » « O p o M o t * « « o n d t i m e — P o r tw ^ íU « • A i a b o r i t i e »

a lK c n e d — E * -iu is lM B « iu t y o f ti»e K n U e Mi n h o — M. »i * p « r 9 o f H i* P « i 4 e — U* n c » : t — A u t h o r l » e i b i s w t y

¡ 6 t h ? F o w i t - T e r r i b l i ; S u p e f« f i t* m c f t h e A V . ^ n -t ^ i „ _ C . n . i » , h * — A u t h o r i o t e r » S p * m — A u i i ^ n » l « d L a m i l a d j

o r C n W i* — O lJ*rii» liW niid I 'm * t 8 , i n t « j < ^ 8 b r i w o f 9 ’ . J * g o d e C u m p * » !* -» * — f i e l d <*f C « r u - in * — In Jk » « B M o f t h * M o o V ^

P * 0 jw n . i l e P fclriM lttiQ o f t h e G iS liciw »*— V erro!,

llATi>G lo n g in ten d ed to 'i is i l GolUcia, to j e cnW t P o rtu g a l b y i ts nortli-woftlcrn fron tier, an d re t a in to O porto U irough tb e h e a r t o f the T razoe M on tw , 1 ag a in q u it led tlia t city a fte r a sljort delay, an d rode th ro u g k a p re tty country to ViJla dc Conde, on th e U th o f K orenibcr. F rom the b rid g e , a t th e en trance o f th e tow n, I aaw i mag* niCecnt convciit in liah itcd b y nuoa o f thu Bene- die tine o rd e r ; an d soon a flcn ra rd s a rriv ing at tl ic iLn, I p laced m yself u n d er tb o guidance o f a rapacious young rascal, an d liaatcned to pay m y t i ib u te o f respect to th e g rea t A tla n d c ; for, io w ev cr fa tigued , I never could re s is t th e spell wbich drew m e to tb e sea. T lie h a rb o u r was fiinaJl, b u t uo t w ithout aymptoros o f acrivity : two h i i ^ were u n d e r rep a ir , a n d sevcTal women w ere carry ing p an n ie rs o f salt, coarse, an d appa-

T c n d j frpsh from the operation which hacl lircu g h t i t i n l o its aotuol eU te

I n th e evening: I s trayed in to an o ld fort, whero I found my s e rra u t A ntonio conversing w ith th e g u ard , m ftldng Tariims inqu iries about th e stores, an d ex p a tia tin g w ith m are eooi^y th a n d iscretion on the u t te r im possibility of defending i t ag a io s t amy lôetile atlaclc. I bnJce u p th e confcTence, and rode back to the inn. b u t in th e course o f an hour received a wiid* moDs froni th e G o v e rn o r; an d I th cu disoovtred th a t som e questions I h a d asVcd respec ting tbo elevation o l tiio tldos, b&d beeu coovortiid in to a reqnee t for an exact description o f the harbour, v h ile th e im aginative t l ie o r i« o f poor A ntonio wero suppooed to p o rte n d an approach ing assault. H is ExcoUenoy aaked m e w hut puniabiD ent tbe H e a d o f tho B ritish ac^roioistratiou w ould infliet OD an y unhappy Porlugue-se w l» pTe»uowd to invade an E n g lish Ibrt, im pelled b y such an audacious sp ir it o f iBvestigation. I cxplaaîed t i c n a tu re o f m y iaqn iiios. endeavoured to convince h im th a t 1 coDtcm plated n o on tragv ag a in s t the fo rt o r tb e governm ent, an d ^ n r c d bim tb a t L o rd G oderich, th e P rem ier o f th a t dav , would n o t re g a rd w ilb a r e ry u n rc ien tin g oye a sim ilar delinquency on th e p a j t o f hia countrym en. T h e n w as th e w orthy m an appeased i com pii. roent« p assed bctwtsen us. aecOTding to th e

fe*hion o f th e couotry , a in i I w m suffered U> ¿ o p a r t iTt pcico.

A s o l d i e r a c c o m p a n i e d m e to th e inn, « i d to ld m e tlia t th e inlaabitftnt« woro alm oat u n iv e m lly O p p o s e d to tHe c h a r te r ; add ing , th a t I h e / s t i l l m ainUiined comraunication* w ith the exiled ad - h eren te o f th e Sil>oira<, an d th a t in censcquenc© o f th e ir vicinity fx> tho Spanish frontier, th o garri* f o n lived in e o n s U i i t d read o f a descent upon the coast. O n reach ing th e in n 1 offered h im a piece o f money, wluch h e rejected w ilh unequivocal sy rrp to n u o f alarm , fo r to hw» appreheiiBiye ima- ^ a l i o n tb e rebel evidently stood confesaed before liim ; b u t w hen h e discovered th a t the aurrender o f h is loyalty was n o t im plied b y his acceptance o f th e coin, h e received i t w ith ovet- fiowinc; g ra titude .

O n th e following day I rode on to F on te B oa, an d l i r e ^ fa a te d w ith th e R ector. I l i s house wa» convenient, th e room» w ere ceraforl- ab ly furniiihed, th e walls tastcfuUy decorated w ith sketches a n d en g ra rin g e , and hi» windows looked ou t upon a little garden , k e p t’ in the liig h es l o rd er, while th e su rround ing eounlry exhib ited a beau tifu l m ix tu re o f rich cultivation an d p ictu resque »oodhind. A fte r b reak fast we w andered am ong fields where In d ia n com h ad been la te ly cut. T h e church was o t a daziU ng w hiteness, tbc co ttages were n e a t andcom Sertabtc,

th e co ttagers seem ed h a p p j a n d a ttached to Iheir pasto r, a n d th o whole sccnc excited uutaingled sensation» o f pleasure.

I ro d e on to B árcelos, dulightfully s itu a ted on th a t noble stream th e Cavado, an d continued m y journey over a wild tra c t o f heath , whicli was still pa rtia lly in bloom , an d gave a fine b lu e tin g e to th e p ro sp cc t G roup» o f oak an d chestnut ado rned th e neighbouring h ills, and p re sen ted all the beau tifu l com hinadons o f p a rk scenery ; while the villages th ro u g h w hich we pas<;ed B'ere thickly peopled , h ad every appearance o f comfort, ftnd wcro g eoera lly embosomed iu a grove o f trees. B enea th th e ir shade th is bappy population is aceustocDod to collect a t eve, a n d spend tlie h tst hours o f the d ay ill dancing , ao d in sin g ing o ld trad itiona l b a l- Luls to th e Kound o f their ikvourite g u ita r ; for ta le s o f love an d chivalry, forgotten in o ther p a rts o f th e k ingdom , are s till chcrished io tlds loyai land . A ll in the M lnho seems redo len t o f jo y : th e couo try p leasing , th e d im a te iinc, an d & per» p e tu a l sunshine o n th e face o f m an shows th a t Oppression h a s no en trance he re . T h e ii 'religión, cheerfu l as H is sincere, is q u ite d ivested o f the fanatic sp irit th a t obB<;ureB i t in tlie southern pro* vincee, an d in th e neÍghl>ourtng T razo s M ontes. D evotional expeditions to ih e ir chapels, placed, like landm arks, on tlie Idghcst hills, a re geoerally com bined with feasts and mcn*y*roaldngs; m any

VOWS, besides tbo*e ad d ressed to Iheir sain is, a re there o f lb re d u p ; an d m any 3 m w dcn looks for- w ard to th e d ay wliuu she w ill accompany lie r farnily to som e favourite sb tine , w ith a th ro b b in g lie art, an d tho u g h ts wilU fiill a s m uch o f e a r th in them as heaven.

Tow arda th e close o f day , even in th o autum n m onths, th o lad ies s it in tlie ir o rnam ental hal- conios, lis ten in g to th o never-ccasing sound o f song issu ing from th e stree ls below, o r gazing upon th o se dram atic daaecs, in wliich th e im a ^ - n ative charac ter o f th is in te restin g peop le is *o pci'u liarly developed. I n th is k in d o f dancc a story, w ith its reg u la r sequence c f events, is re p resen ted in dum b show. F o r iubtancc. a swain approaches th e lua id o f h is ch o icc ; he first hvnta th e sccre t o f his h ea it, b u t g radually grow s bolder as she appears to tu rn no ina tten tiv e o ar to his p le a d in g ; h e u rg es h e r too s tro n g ly ; ho offends; she wav^g him from h e r ; ho ro treals— despairs— grows haugh ty—love, ho^TOTe^, prevails over pride —ho injplorcs forgivenoss-^ht- is forgiven, and prido, anger, an<l disUUht give way before tlie re tu rn in g beam s o f tru e aifection, o s Icicles be- neallx tho m on iing tun.

D u rin g th is deliuoatioQ o f vary ing passions and events n o t a word is bpokcn, b u t every change o f situation, every fluctuation o f feeling, is r e p r ^ sen ted b y th o looks a n d gestu res o f th e (iancort ;

and , w hen I rem em bered t i s t th e actcprs in Ihe scene were b u t th e peasan ts o f tlie soil, 1 ewarcely knew which to m arvel a t tb c moet, th e refined natxirc o f th e sen tim en ts described, o r th o o x trv ord inary pow er possesaed, b y pcreous to ih o it raok o f life, o f g iv in g correct expression to those feelings. A » certain fea tu res o f th e fw?c w c said to accoiupaoy cc rta in qualities o f tlie in iad , so, in th is &.voured lan d , there is a grace o f m anner idm ost invariably asfloeiatcd willi a g raec o f m ind. Dot the re su lt o f a r t o r education, b u t som etim es ae ap p aren t in th e lowest h in d as in th e h ighest noble o f tlic l&nd.

U nqaeM ionablv a s tra n g e r m ay som etim es experience incivility in th e M inho, n o r can h e travel a t a ll houre, a n d n n d er a ll circum stance«, w ith th a t le a se o f periec t security which h r ju s tly ente rta in s in tlie g re a te r p a r t o f th e B iscayan p ro vinces ; b u t any rudeness o r danger to w hich .ko may b e casually exposed, arises less from th e com- m on peasantry , who w e generally k in d an d well- diepoeed, th a n irom th a t tearfu l race, tlxe V alen- lo ines, who, io the neighbouring T razo s M ontes, grew in to a num erous an d almcwt banded body uf m en, in conse<juence o f th e feuda l s ta te cK’m anners which p r e v ^ e d in th a t d istric t, Pa«bitig th e lim its o f thu Trazot» M ontee, sometimes u n g ly , som etim es in considi^rable num bers, when deprivod o f a pow erful p ro t«elor o r p u rsu ed by

th e yeng:eaji<'c o f a T i v a l bouse, tli#y infected th e w orst p a r t o f tb e popu la tion o f th e M inho w ith th e i i m araudn ig taate» ; ao d as tJic dertee vood 'i and d eep ravine* o f tS a t beau tifu l conntry fam ish h a u n ts too well ad ap ted to tbe h ab its o f an outlaw , th o V akntoiiie* , th o u g h n e ith e r very nuBKTous n o r m uch to b e d readed there , a t leas t d u rin g th e hours o f lig h t, a rc y e t no t wholly u n known in ihose E ly s jan fields.

T h e M inho is imnaerisely peopled in pm porlioo to it« e x te n t; nw eh w ealth is d is trib u ted over its surface, an d i t y ields a rev e ru e to thegow m m ent. M any of the nobles reside on their estates, which arc generally sm all, an d often he ld M prazoB, an d therefo re a re n o t divided upon the d ea th o f th e existin?? p rop rie to r, b u t deecend en tire to Ms heir-at-law .

T h e re was a g rea t fair in the neighbourhood of P o n te do T im a, an d th e ro a d was enlivened by BUCCPSsiTC ^ o u p s o f peasants, le tiirn in g to tL e ir hom es, gaily a ttired , an d in OTerflowing spirits. A t len g th , to m y reg re t, th e suo w ent down, and the shadows o f evening closi^d over a prcs|>ect e re ry motr»ent increasing in b e a u ty ; b u t though we could n o lo n g er d istingnisli a^rurateW the deU ils o f the eoun try th ro u g h w hieh we were passing , i t w as evidently m ountainous an d most p icturesque.

SooD aftorw ards wc lo s t o u r way, an d en tered

a pass, wllicli was b o narrow tlia t two liorscinen could n o t rid e a b re a s t ; tlic rocks roee »0 h i^ h on o a c l i side, ao d tlie braocLes overLead form eil so den MO a canopy, t l ia t th e m o u th o f th is i)aas rceeoibled (he cntranoo o f a Rubtcrranoan cav ern ; an d as 1 proceeded th o darknei^s wa« not p artia l, b u t absoluto. T h e boautifiil iictiona o f the poets rocurred to rnv m ind, aod L alm ost fancied m yself descending in to th e in fernal regions. O ur pro*

WAS unsafe, as th e g round w as oovcrcd w ith L ugo stones, ao d pooU o í everywhereuboundcd. W hen we a t le n g th em erged from th is gloom y defile, an d found ourselves again in th e nkidst o f th e deep forest, a ll indioation-e o f a

tra c k h ad Tanihhod, aTtd I waa p rep a rin g to take m y n ig h t’s r<rpohO o n the bea tlu w hen A ntonio was u ttra r tc d hy a d is ta n t lig h t. H e re lu c tan tly accom paoied m e to the spot ahonco i t appeared lo p roceed ; fo r 1 shou ld h ere observe th a t a

li^îit seen a t a la te hour in th e d a rk wood, o r on th e lonely moor, is reg a rd ed w iih superstitious fear b y th e tnhab itau t« o f these w ild d istricts, us i t is supposed to b e k in d led b y weird women, know n fam iliarly b y th e nam e o f B ruohas, hags who m aintain a d irect in tercourse w itli the g rea t A u th o r o f evil, an d h o ld conference ^vitL h im a t m idnigL t on som e drearv spot.

A s th e ir dw ellings are often tU slant from the «cene o f thcso im pious assem blies, th ey ac(ûire

tbc powci* o f tTAQspOTliog tliem aoltcs to Ibc accur»«d plftCC o f m eeting liy th o m ost dioadful m eans, ano in tin g thomsclTca w ith a pitrparation slrODg'y im prcgriati'd w ith iho b lood o f children, and jiTonouDcing th e following p o ten t sp e ll— “ P<tT cima d f va ilfido p o r &aixo de telhado—'O v e r llie eaves and undo:' th o roofe le t v t go to onr i&tc." I t is believi>d Uiat Hoy m istako in the exact form ula o f w ords is a sourco o f tb e g rea test danger. A m an who, i a ignorance o f h er fearful nature , h a d m anned a Brucha, is sa id to liave seen h e r loaxe th e b rid a l b ed a t m idnight, and, supposing him to bo asleep, perform h e r mystic rifes, and th en , pronouncing th e fa ted words, fly u p th e chimney. P ro m p ted b y some strange im pulse , he endeavoured to ibUow b c r exam ple, b u t transpOblng th o m agic words, w as dashed ag a in s t th e roofs o f honsca, an d found OD tho following m ocning rnu tila tcd and in a dy ing state.

W h en th e sislyrLood a rc assem bled, th e devil appears io th e shape o f an euoim ous goat, and receives tbe m ost d eg rad in g ac ts o f hom age; a f te r w hich these women, whose perso n a l appearauco i s described as very revolting, become transform ed in to beautifiil g irls, o f whom the P rin ce o f D arkness selects the fa irest. A i^cene o f fran tic revelry ensue* ; an d th en tho re a l business o f th e n ig h t beg in s , the arch-llend enjoining them to te m p t ce rta in individuals, a n d instruct-

m g t)icm » tb ^ mCKle best ealcu lated to destroy th e ir victiiB*, body $std aouL T h e raecting d\»> p « n ee before th e break o f d a j . b u t woe lo the IraveUor who cliancM to m eet tJie dreadful BrurhAS re tu rn in g to th e ir dw elU ngs: for by k iodJio^ h g h ts (hev a llu re H m from hia p a th in to im m iuen t poril, th en le tv ^ him in to ta l dftrknes», an d ap p a l him h y th e ir lo u d an d fiendisb laugh .

In sp ite o f A ntonio '» apprehensions wo k r ^ th e K g lit steadily Ia view, a n d a t U n ^ lh reached a so liU d j cotU |ce. W e called bcocatli tb e cajse> EOOQl. x(pou which tw o m en appcaro<3,one ofw huB engaged to show u& th e to P o a le d l L i n a ; b u t h is m anner b y n o m eans sa tis& cto r^ ; b o requ ired pay n ien t before h e perform ed iiis t a s k : th e re ^ras m uch consuUalion betw een an d h is <'Off)panion, ao d hu rried wliispors were exchangrd . TTnQrmed, annduct on th e road o n lj coajinoed n j susp icions; fo r a t one tim e h e w ished to leave us, and requested m e to rcnuun s ta tio n ary t i l l be r e tu rn e d : a m odest yfoposittoii on so cold a u j^ h t. B y h is peculi:ir m anner, and b y h is ecn- Tersaliofi, wliich w as a tisaso o f person«! boasts, 1 rKO|cnised th e V alentoine.

AC le n g th we rcacbcd the ia n , w here b e is -

dulgod th e laadlftdy w ith a. aeries o f overwhelming’ gâscouades, &nd m ade a g rea t p a rad e o f h i s bct- TÍces: aer^^rding to hia own m odest « tateuient, h e h ad lod u s th ro u g h path s uadistm guishahlo b y any o ther eye h e h ad p rcscrro d ua f r o n the snaraAidors h e h ad sAVed u t from th e unearth ly terro r» o f the w ood—terro rs which, a/^ting upon the (<»eigQ a n d feeble iDÍod, muHt hftv'e termi* n a tcd . i f n o t ict uuddea ao d appa lling dissolutioa, a t leas t ÍQ how hag m adness. In sho rt, v it were indeb ted t e ]\im fo r security o f p u rse an d person» an d fo r any gleam a o f ioSellect v e w ere stiJl p erm itted to re ta in .

I BU|;p«d w ith an officer who h ad J a s t m arched in to th e town to su p p ress an insurrection which b ad broVen o a i in & vo«r D ooi M iguel i for th e public m iod w as a t th a t tim e cx^îted ^ the rcceo t in te lligeace o f b is Domioaiion to th e K e- geocy. T h e inbabitanfe o f th is town, an d o f all the eo rrcu n d in g d istric t, w ere notoriously liostileto th e CoDstit(tlii>a.

T b e enviioDs o f P v n te d i L im a are tru ly de* ligh tfu l. T h e horizon is ho u n d ed h r a fine ran g e o f BioimtJLÍV6, an d th e in terT cning plains Arc richlv wooded, while yij>cft, tra in ed over trei* lis*worl{. h an g in g down ix ê to o p s . an d corering a groa t ex ten t o f country , looked hkc ao endless succee&ioQ o f lu x u rian t arbours. I ro d e into V ianna b y th e beau tifu l Bk* CaTado> th ro u g h

m caJow s possc.ssing &!! tlie verdure o f E n g lan d , au d th rough ft country suppoRcd by th e P o r tu guese to have b een th e E lybiurn o f the ancients ; an d indued it wfW deserves its h ig h repuiatio-n.

L eav ing Vianncw J took Ih e voad to Camiolia. T h e sun h a d se t beh in d a b an k o f olouds, and a d rizz ling ra in b ad coinm encetl A s Ih e n ig h t closcHÌ in, t)io ch aiac ter o f the Hcenery «hanged r

\ro vodc across a wild trac t o f hea th , over wliich crag s were sca tte red iu a ll dircetioD«, and

p assed b e n e a ih th e lù g li towers au d inasflive walls o f a largo fort, which, s tan d ijig in su la ted in so w ild a country, a n d seen by so dim a ligh t, looked like tb e g igan tic residence o f som e enchan ter o f tile o lden tim e. T h e sea w as ra g in g furiously amcjng th e rocks ; beneath , the foam of th e b re a k ers was visible th ro u g h th e gloom , an d th e ir laud ro a r wa« ren d e red s till m ore awful by th e a lie n e e o f every o ther sound. W e soon aJlerw ards ente re d a royal fo rest, a n d p rocured a guide, who show ed u s the way to Oam inha.

T b e in n wa* corapletely fiill; o u r horses were exhausted , a n d i t w as n early m idnights I was therefo re com pelled lo send m y servan t w ith a le tte r to th e Ju lz d e F o ra . I t was ludicrous to pcrccive th e a lte re d m anner o f m y hoNt, when h e discovered th a t 1 was likely to become th e guost o l auch an influential pert>on : h is re g re t a t being unab le to acoommodate in y e s tin ia b b se lf knew

DO bouoda; hia soUcitude fo r m y com forl waa p a lcn ia i—h e would rercivc no rcmuriCTation for h is trouble— liU ro o f h ad been suffiriently honoured b y niy presence. H e added, however, iu t »bispcT, th a t a few w ords spokeo in h is praw c to th e Jn i* dc F o ra , who, it secois. Iiad only ju s t arriTccl a t C am inha, w ouH reflect th e h ighost c rcd it on niy natui*al benevolence. I prom ised to declare h im a p a rag o n o f innkeepers, and ro d e to Iho house o f th e J u iz <3e F o ra , a y o ung m an o f m ild au d preposse&ising m anners.

I waa so ftiCigued tlia t I roU red to ie» t as soon as 1 could effcct a re tre a t wiOi any p ro p rie ty ; h u t about tw o o 'clock I was aw akened, an d found a sum ptuous repast la id on th e tab le close to my bed. I ts sudden appesLrancc rem inded me of those ineidents so common in fa iiy ta les, wliere a tab le , covered w ith every delicacy, unexpectedly p re sen ts itse lf to th e w eary traveller, S iiaking off th e drow sy fiend, 1 d id ju a tiec to tlie s u p p e r ; fo r I w as in rea lity h a lf famitihcd. W hen 1 h ad concluded m y repast, th e tab le Tanlalied, tho lig lits w ere ex tin g u ish ed w ith the rap id ity o f magic, an d I sunk ag a in in to a profound sleep.I «pent the following day w ith m y k ind host and a num erous p a rty o f Iiis fiiendB. an d afterw ards continuing m y journey , ro d e to V alenca, one o f the m ost strongly fortified towns i a P o rtu g a l. I was im m ediately le d b y a boldicr to th o GoTemor,

•wlio received m e courteously, and req u ested toe to titkc u p uiy abod« a t bi» lioutid. l a th e evei^

h is eistcr h a d a la rg e &«i^toljiy.O a (he tbilowing day I crossed tli« MlnLo, und

entorcd S|>oin, w itb an a g e n t o f th e B ritish Con- su), who accom panied m e fo r th e p tirpose o£ uooo tliiiig the difEcultiev which an J^ng lish iM a th e n ex jw rieaprd in passin g in fo Gallici«, I ’he civil w ar h a d ra g e d ao la te ly and so fiercely a long th is Ijokindary; th e Portugueeo iBBurgentfi l»ad Lccn no Avarialy «upportod by the Spani^li au th i^ aU es. and so Toany ac ts o f m u tu a l hostility had Tccently tfJcea place, th a t the irrita tio n betw eon liic fro n tie r provinces w as extrem e. O n my arrival a t T u v , m y p«uwpoL't »a*» n a rr« ? ly exa* siincd , and m y le tte rs o f introduction bi'oken open, an d atten tiv e ly r c f t j by the police. B eing , however, declared innocuous t-o the ^ e * t m o- navcliy. th ey rooeived th e s l^ ia tu ro c l’ tbe office, a n d wore re s to red to m y posse*sion, A fte r infin i te di^ciission I con tinued luy journey to V igo : th o i i i ^ t closed i n ; the ra in cam e down in to rren ts , an d we s tu m b k d on in m iscrahla p lig h t fo th e in n o f S a n Fraaeiiteo. T h o G allieians seeuied tu m e in ferio r in pcrttonak appcarance to tiio Spaniard» o f tho o ther p ro rinces. 1 w u now ob liged to resign m y traveU ing cap, because it wab white, an d « a s supposed to have a C onstitu tio n a l look.

I vrfis DOW again in (h a t la n d o f romArKo,in which I h a d ao lo n ^ resíded d u rin g th e *tonuy period o f her la s t revolution. H ow m any changes h ad oceiirred in h e r eventful an n a ls sincft th a t tim e! h o v m any io m y own! an d how com* p le te lv Lad h er fair prospecta been b lig h ted by th e fblly an d oppression o f th a t assem bly to whose colleetive wisdom tb e ir ¡ll*&ted country h ad vainly looked fo r h e r politicni reg en eration!

Thf* p o rt o f V igo i* one o f the finest in %»ais, and ra th e r rescm blra a g re a t lake, surrounded by h ig h hill 9. th a n an inli^t o f th e sea^ for its en trance is g u ard ed b y rocky islands which b reak th e forcc o f the wave*, and effert\ially p ro tec t tJie Icirgest sh ips from th e violeoce o f any wind- T h e R am sgate d iving-bell w as tran sp o rted to th is harboitr, d u rin g th e previous year, fo r the purpose o f recovering th e m oney sunk in th e Spanish galleons* . T h e p ro jec t fa iled ; fo r the treasu re w asp ro W b ly bu ried d eep in the sa n d ; an d the unsticcossful specuU tor susta ined a heavy loss, T ho view was fine, th e sea spark ling , an d ^ e l i t t le boats, b rrn g ln g in th e ir b a d s o f sar* dfoes, g a w life to th e wezke. Theaa ftsh arc so icu eh ostopmed, th a t th ey aro expdrtod in

* L o t d 3 á 4 k s n k a » ( p w i • v e r y f b í l ü u g a c 0O U A t « f t b c l o M a£ t b « S p M i is h g aJ^co u B i o h í j t r u J f T 4 lu n liU i « o c k , ± t “ H i x i o r y o f

t h e o f S u M e n i o n i n

o 2

g rea t quantllxCB to G ib ra ltar, B arcelona, artd D i a o y towns in I ta ly .

1 explored th e enTiron» w ith D o n L ouis M cnen- d c 2, a o d a noble individual, wlio h a d been one of th e fcw reaaonablc m enibcrb o f tlie C ortes of 1820. l i e fcpoko v i tb deep fcoling o f tKe ac tual Ktalc o f liis counlry, an d ju s tly a ttr ib u le d the failu re of the C onalilu tionalists to th e ir own intoraporate conduct. T h e a rb itra ry iu p p resslon o f iLe con- T c n ts ; tbe unijUftlified abolition o f cn la ili, and th o decree b y wbicK ccrta in p ro p ertie s bcearac sub jec t to forfeiture w hen iLc title deeds could n o t be produced, were acts fo r w hich tbej- deserved th e execration o f every h o n est m an, and w hich m ig h t have ».hakeu a far m ore le p tim a te j»overament. I in qu ired a fte r several persons w ith whom 1 w as acquain ted in th e early days o f th e rev o lu tio n : a few w ere d e a d ; m any in e i i le i a n d society appeared to have undergone a to ta l <«hange.

L c a v iu j V igo 1 rode th ro u g h a plc-asaot and inclosed coun try to T ontevedra. I h a d deviated from m y ro ad to m ake som e visits, a n d liiereforo re a d ie d th a t town la te in th e day, M y clothe* were drenched w ith ra in , every fire i a tho in n waa extinct, an d no food could fo r ft lo n g tim o b e pro« curcd, b n t th u laudlord’s d au g h te r was p re tty a n d no t d isinclined to a l i tt le i l ir la tio n ; tho land lady vra^ a n a tive o f B arce lo n a ; she had

docked hiT li ttle son in th e r e d b o rn c l jteculiar to Catalouift, an d froquenOy called h im a C atalao , dwelling upon tlie w ord w ith ev iden t p ride and

plcdbure .F ro u i P o n tev cd ra we p u rsu ed o u r journey

th rough H licavy ra in to C aldas, an d a» the beat in n WM fu ll, took refugee in an o th er j liere, asccnd* in g a d a rk an d narrow staircase, 1 en te red a la rge ap a rtm en t, an d discoT»sTed & stran g e assem bU gc o f person*. T lie ca rtlcss m uleteer, w ith lus b toad-brim uied h a t, r e d scarf, an d velvet ja c k e t; th e gloom y TVancItocan friar, h a lf shrouded in h is cow l; a n d a p ilg rim bedcciced w ith bholls; fbrroed a curiouft group, th a t saf ap;tf t from a crowd o f peabants a ttire d in the «ombre dress o f th e ir couotry. T h e landlaily, an ancien t dame*, com- b in io g tlio g a m d ity o f h e r year« w ith th e activity ©f n ineteen , rocoived m e a* 1 en tered , colled m e h e r d ear son, an d throw ing b c r arm s around my neck, folded m e in a warm cm brace. A s mine honoured hootess was enveloped in an atmcwphere o f garlick, 3 recoded, w ith Bome abi-uptncss, from h e r frag ran t arm s. S he a ttr ib u te d m y reluctance to pride, a o d an exprcssiou o fm o rtifc a tio n , slightly m ingled w ith d iq ih a su rc , was for a m om ent visible o n h e r êo d -h u m eu red face, a.«» bhc loudly exclaim ed “ V h p d U w iiJ ia n x a B u t unlike th e generality o f “ ancient ladies when refused a kiss,’* she w as speedily pacified; sbe b ro u g h t m e sooie

eardincvfoi* snppcr, mtí^Dgcd m y h c ^ in » lUÜe wooden reces», iosisted oo p u ttin g on m y night* c a p ; an d Icfi m e fo «bimbor » peaco xmdor the p ro tection ol* th e V'lrg’it).

O n th e iluUowiDg; d ay I again m ade a nURht deviation fi'om the h igh-road , an d th en proceedod. to th e fam ous Santiago do CoQipostcUa. n lie re ire a rrived in h woeful s ta te , fu r th e ra in h ad fallen for m any hours w ithout intoi'iniseion, an d the r o a d H v/ere to ll o f m x k d . F o r a lon^' tim e trc roam ed frum in n tu ion, w ithout b e in g »ble to procure accom m odations; b u t a t len g th alighted

th o V iuda S au V alentina, by no moan« ih e best ho te l, h u t th e on ly one th a t could th en tc o m tt u t H e re we literally found only walU to »beUer u&t w e »at ditm ched w itli rain , y e t w ilhon t tb e pow er o f chang ing o u r d iess, as th e u iu h r t^ r n itL the lu g g ag e wa» m any miles in o u r r e a r ; nui' could we fo r a lo n g tim e procnrc a tíi-e o r provision«.

O u r huste&e y>sx a perfec t specim en o f tb e old S |»inish land lady , fo r h er d ress an d Tnanners were cûully an tiqna ied , a a d h er language was etrongly lin¿»ed w ith the devotional ch o rartcr o f th e plací*. W h en 1 u rg ed h er iu “b e loore irrpe- d itious, she said , “ M v Son, wf? irve in tim es very d ifferen t from ibotie when Grod walhed u jten tl»e e a rth r” sh e was perfectly insoneiblo to >uv rrflee- tions on th e u t te r deficiency o f cuiafort» (fa»4 p e rv ad ed every p a r t o f h e r estahlishmcTit, b u t

«jrtreoiply p ro u d o f it* a n l i q u i t j . Slw cm»i*c- i« te d th e g u ests th a t hEul a t vsrtinus um cs reposed x T Í t l i i n h e r sacred t h r e t l i o l d t h e S ih cira* in iw r n t days, an d in time* h jn g p a « m any holy m en, H eav en th e ir souls 1 m any champiort* of tb r F a ith , an d even royal pilgriins. 1 tc ^ r d v i th g rav ity th is lo n g rw ap itu la tio n o f w orthies, in which ex isting grandecH w ere curiously m i*eá u p w ith ftocicivt and som etim es legendary characters; h u t w as-otterly discotnpoaed w hen sh e nam ed as one o f th e earliest a n d m ost eonstaiil v isiters of h e r in n . th e A postle S t. Ja m e s h im eclt th e g rea t P a tro n S a in t o f Spain. I torrred lu s t i ly aside to conceal the lau g h in g im pulse w hich irresialibly O T crcaine ro e : I m ig h t have abused a y worthy hostefls, I m ig h t h a re c a l u T o n i a t e d her family, or h e r la rd e r, an d h av e possibly re ta in ed h e r good g ra c e s ; b u t a sing le donh t cast on thi& inpo rtan t p o in t o f sacred h isto ry wonld have been irre triov . ably faü il to o u r m u tu a l intelligence.

T b o n e x t day 1 e ^ l o r e d th is curious c i ty : the houses arc o4d'fashioned as th e roauncrs o f t h d r in h a b ita n ts ; an d th e streets, uarrow. diiik, and gloom y, were well su ited to m y prerioixs cx^ncep- tioDs o f a p W e th ftt liears the fam ous nam e of J a g ü d e Com postella. an d íb still th e stronghold o f the anc ien t ^natic isn» . T ho C a th ed ra l is a boge, ungracefu l p ile o f bu ild ing . T lie l« 9ade U s trik in g only from i ts ex ten t an d crf>wded decora*

t i o n ; tT ic l t l i c m r i n o r a b l f t r c r o l W H o n * a s s o c i a t e d

w i t l i l l i e i n t c i ' i o r o f f b i s c d i £ c i ¿ i iT t f t t i t w i t h •

c b a r i n i t t?ou1<1 n o t o t h e r s to e p o y s e s i .

T h o s h r i n e o f S t . J a m c B j a p r o f u s e l y a d o r n e d

w i t h g o h l a n < l f i i l v c r . a n d 1» s u in io u Q t4 > d b y a

f i g u r e o f t l i o e a i n t o o h o r s e b a c k , s t i l l r « f g ; a r d e d

w i t h t h p d p o p o s t d o v o d o u b y t b o c i i t h u e i a H t i c

S p a n i a r d s . K o i s t h o t u t e l a r s a i n t o f S p a i n , a n d

t h e f i r m r c l i a n r c o n c c p l a c e d o n h i » p r o L e c l i o o

c o n t r i b u t e d g r e a t l y t o t h o s u c c e s s o f t h e C l i r i s t i a n

f o r c e s i n t l i e i r e a r l y w a r s w i t b t h e M o o i 's . W h o l e

a r m i c f i , d e l u d e d b y t h e i r a r d e n t i i n a ^ D a t i o n s ,

b e h e l d h i m m o u n t e d o n a w h i t e s t e e d b e a r i n g

t h e C r o s s , a n d l e a d i n g t h e m o n t o c o i l a m T i c l o r y -

A n d s t i l l s o m e c l r e a m o r i j I n d u l g e a f o n d b o U o f ,

t h a t a U b o u g h , o f f e n d e d b y t h e d i s l o y a l t y o f t h e

t i m e s , t b e 8 a m t n o w v o i l e h i m s e l f f r o m t h o v u l g a r

e y e , b e w i l l a p p e a r o n c c m o r e a m o n g b i s f a i t h f u l

f o l l o w e r s , a o d , m o u n t e d o n h i s h e a v e n l y c b a y g e r »

r e s t o r e t h e n a t i o n a l ^ l o r y .

T o t h i s M e c r a o f t h e C h r i s t i a n w o r f d , p r r s o D S

o f o v o r j a g e , a n d s e x , a n d r a u k , c a m e f o r m e r l y i n

c r o w t l s ; e v e n p r i n c e s , b a r e f o o t c t l , a n d w i t b u n c o *

v e r e d b e a d s , p r o s i r a t c d t b c m f c ie lv e s b e f o r e t h e

s h r i n e , i n t h e v a ' t n l i o p o o f l i g h l o u i n g , b y s u c h

p r o f o u n d h u m i l i t y , t h e w e i g h t o f s o m e c n o r o i o u s

g u i J t 5 a n d a s t h o y g a ^ e d u jK > n t b u t o b j t ' c t o f

a I d n g d c m ’s v e n e r a t i o n , t e a r s f l o w e d d o w n t b e

c h e e k s o f m e n w h o s e e a r s b a d l> c c u d e a f t o

th e cry for morry, who's« LcarW h ad Veen ínat^ccs' siblo lo remorsi*, iu>d w hoseliH ndsperliays.evenin th a t lioo r o f »uppllcation, were i-cd w ith m urdor. M any pilgrim » reso rted annuaUy to iLe CathodraJ before th o revolution o f 1 '^20; b u t tlic ir Ttumbers docredaod in con sequence o f the provincial di»turl>- aaccg w hich followed th a t e r e n t 5 y e t, 1 Baw m a n j pcrsont» l<necUng aroQod the »brine, absorbed lo prayer, an d fuily im prceaed w ith the b e lie f th a t {bo m ortal rem ain» o f th e saiu t re s ted b en ea th th e ir feet, an d th a t hi* guard ian sp ir it was hoverin g axound them . 1 observed one m an pardcu* larly , who was Ijcnding fonvard in the a ttitu d e o f p ra y e r ; b is eyes were fixed upon th e blirine, liiu L ands clasped, an d h e liad »uch an expi-ession o f in teosc devotion ou I1Í» pallid features, th a t I believe scarcely any eastern al sonnd o r Right could h av e d is trac ted hi* atteaU on. T h e re are m any relio* in th e C ath ed ra l, an d some costly p late, w hich th e C oastitutionahB ts o f li*20, w ith th e ir usual wisdom, w ere on th e p o in t o f appropriating , regardlc*s o f th e popxilar prtûdices, when the counter-revolution tools place.

Señor H iva, to whom 1 h a d a le tte r o f in tro duction, aocompanied m e to tb e un iversity , which i* said to contain a thousand scho lars; b u t tbe *hortne*s u f m y v is it d id n o t en ab le m e to gain mucli in»ight in to th e n a tu re o f the stud ies p u rsued . th e m ode o f tu ition , a n d the g en e ra l ciift-

G 3

o f tb e cfitaH ishm ent; y e t I h ea rd ore clas« ejtam m ed, and i t appeared lo m e th a t m any <3Í th e scliolar» liad cnad<? eonsidcraW e jiroficiency in the* r^ f .in tongue. 'J'lie «holarf» form ed, perhap», th e only p a r t? io Santiago tl ia t eo te rta íaed any fpelings o f affection Ib r th e m em ory o f the popu lar govom m cnt. T liose ^ c re golden days, lEidoed, wh«n l i tt le urchin n m ounted g ^ a rd a t tbe door o f th e patrio tic nlub», * n d when corporal puuidbm eni In schools wa^ ahoU shed h y la v , as incom patible w ith th e d i ^ i l v o f sehoolHoyB t a ridiculous instancr o f tlia t m inu te le^^lidatioii w hich characterised th o C ortes, an ti degraded them in th e eyes o f E urope. W o al\crw ards w en t to th e co n T cn t o f S an M artin , which is rich, and on an enorm ous scale. O n e of the "brotherliood lia d ju s t d ied , and tw o monlc« were Icooping w atch b y th e b ier u p o n which h e lay ex ten d ed with a p i arid smile on h is countenance, a« i f th o sp ir it b ad not ye4 d eserted i ts m ortal tene?nent, b u t was onW su n k in tem porary repose. J re tu rn ed w ith Señor B iva to hi* hoaw , an d jo ined ilie fam ily circle as eltocolale waa served np .

T h e iao d in the vicinity o f S an tiago is well c u ltiv a te d : th e p o ta to is Ixtoocmng an object oi' agricu ltiB iJ a tten tio n in th is p a r t o f Spain, an d m ^* pofssibly in som e Tcsrs supersede th e chestn u t as an article o f food am ong th e lower tla«>»ef*

TrfHTbg S«ntiago . 1 to à c th ro u g h ft hilly dis- a ic t to E h 'c s . J i t t ì e tow ns M id vfllaa « tuddod th e country, ar»d lli© tir s t a g l i t o f 0<7rui>n». th o hay , an d 'tlr tT n o im ta in s .ira s eW rcmely bcautifttl. E n te r in g th e principal street. T aliffhied a t the H o t t i d e Com m erce, w here wc found a dvihzed iMjdUjrd, * u d cxceilcnt roomb. contm aoding »fine view o f th e harbonr. O n th e arrival of th e DinêtecT m y Inggagc wi.s oooveyod to tlie «latom a, an d m y pfi^^rrs rc-esam ined. ! h ad b een m ak in g *omc ex tra^ ts from o ld Spanish chronicles, r«pe«?ting J io n P edro th e C ruel, and th is Damo a t oooe excited tb c a larm o f Bome sabord luato officers. T o calm th e ir Apprehen- •ions, J in form ed them th a t Ihc hero o f m y ex- tra c ts h ad no referc7.ce to h is Tmi>erial M ajesty, b u t to a K in g o f C astine. T hey Rimultaneonsly esc i aim ed, th a t F e rd in a n d w as the ooly K in g of Castillo. I asaored th em th a t I waa th e vety la s t m an in tlie w oild to ra ise any doub ts uj>on th e valid ity o f hig M ajesty 's claim to th e throne, a n d tl ia t m y D o n P edro h o d died som e ccnturics before th e b iidx o f Ihcir actual S overeign , so th a t these two TOjal Versonagea could n o t b y any po«' sihility h e b ro u g h t in to coiUsiou, T hey conld n o t controvert m y sta tem ent, b u t sullenly answei>ed th a t I h a d no rigît to in troduce in to th e kingdom p ap ers th a t tre a te d o f any P ed ro s , Irrin g o t de- fttDct. A t t h « m om ent the head o f th e d epart-

lucn t app«&T«d. l i e w as a weU b re d an 1 m tcUi' m a n ; h e g lanced ra p iJ ly a t ih o pa}>ers,

rciscued them from ih e g ^ s p o f th o enemy, an d p c n n itte J D o n P e d ro a n d m e to leave th o ofilce w ithout fu rth e r m olestation.

O n th o tb llcw iag day M r. B artlo tt, th o B rit is h Consul, accom panied m e to th e spo t wherd th e luem orable b a ttle o f CoToniia was fought. A n Knglifihm an surveys th a t scone w itli very different feelings frum those whlcli affect h im a& ho looks upon th e p la ins o f V itto ria au d W ater* loo. T h e general fa ilu re o f the expedition is h ard lv com jwnsated b y tlie inu itden t lu stre ol* succDBS, ftnd exu lta tion a t tlie pruw ess o f our arm s Is fheclced b y horrow fo r iHc slain.

T lie gallw itry , the W gh feeling o f the B ritish (Jcncra l, an d th e iio W e d ea th h e d ied , combined •«ilh the alm ost unprecedented <lib'aaters o f the previous re trea t, a re clrcumstaiiocs w hich shed a m elancholv in te rest ev er th is woll-dibputed field. T h e F ren ch attached th e B ritish lines on th a t clay ^ f h tlie ir usvial im petuosity , were received w ith B ritish firm ness, an d driven in to th e vailey w ith considerable loss. M ajor S tan hope di&tlnguishcd iiim self in th e p u rsu it, and M ajo r N ap ie r gaxe sh in ing proofs o f th a t chiraJ- Tous valour which is so rem arkable in a ll the m em bers o f h is warlike fam ily*. H u rr ie d un

* W b « t h a t i e a c t ^ M i o t r d » U h i t i ; r j l o e d f ( w « d , C v l e r ^

by th e a rd o u r o f feelings b e IcH th e ad* vance, b u t wa« suvcrcly wounded, a n d foil in to th e banda o f th e cnoioy, from whom h e rccd v ed the m ost generous tre a tm e n t; b u t ho was long supposed to lia iT fa lle n ; the Dews e f hi« dea th v a s circulated i a E u g lan d , an d i iu frienda D i u u r n e d over h im a» over one whom th ey should never see again.

W e inquired o f a peasan t who hapjw ned to be passin g by , i f h e could sliow u s the exact spo t where S ir J o h n M oore was Idlled. “ In d eed I c a n / ' rrp lied the man, “ for I saw 1dm fall, and assi&ted io carry ing him off the field," a jid tlieo p o in iio g ou t the place, h e passed ou. W e wero n o t liowever satisfied, an d p u t the sam e que>»tioD to ano ther countrym an. “ I o u g h t to Icnow," our »econd friend began, “ as the G eoeral died in vny arm ^,‘’ say ing which h e led u s to a knoll o f g roond precisely opposite to tJtat ind ica ted by o u r iau* inform ant. T h is doub le sta tem en t was too t*gre. grous; b u t eD tertaioiog I siipposo large oolions o f l^ng lish credulity , h g roup o f peasan ts coll erred around us, an d nooe -would resign th e honour o f having received th e falling G e n e ra l; though no

IT t f n e r , b r u t ^ r o f t b t ^ U t n t O & e r f o » l i t n s 1 leave b « « n ja » ( i i j lu d i i ig , w>tl b v I iM :k > tv «W g «

_____ «hat b Ui>niW « i n e r e r d u b b 'd u u r v b o ld >n 6 ^ 1 ,M u r, w h^Q fro Cfl a o d & rc sa «r fn.«,

U o r e fo r eobrtcey

tw o iadiviAoai* rxmld a^ rcc iipoo th e exact spot where th e ir aealoos h ad Keen ¡ v d m i n i s t e r e d .

Thcso delusive »t6temcst& aro»e fTDm a spirit o f «Xfti:ifcnUion inheren t in th e S p a i^ h eh** rac ier, an d in any o th e r ctn in irj b n t S pain m i^h t h a re been rcocircd, an d |» rL a p e n o t nnjubtly. m indicatioDS o f a friTolmis an d twincÔTe dbpoM - t io n : b u t th e re th ey were only the rx p re » io n <pf a foible w hich p laved o n th e ruriacc, h n t h ad ta k e n n o roo t in th e n u n d ; fo r the sam e raiT», on any occasion o f m om ent, would I a t c been found honest, disintcrcRK ^, an d Mtjccrc- G re a t di£B- cuUy how ever arose am ong UjcmsclTes in reconciling th e ir conflicting sta tem ent» O ne man asserted th a t la s account o f the b a ttle m ust be coTTCCt, W a u g c h e still possessed a cannot*-ball which h a d l>eeo d ischarged on tk a t e r^n tfu l d a y ; au adm irab le specim en o f Spaai^h reasoning, ad m itted to b e eoncluaivo by h is companioni»: an o th er displayed Ws Viiowledge o f m ilitary m a tte rs , Hy arg a in g , th a t th e aanw p ie re o f ju’tillery could fit th e sam e tim e b e Icwellod against t\90 objects in d ilf<rent directions, an d oquaUy d es tru c tire in iro n t an d r e a r ; l>m a l l possessed h ig h notions o f B ritish courage. W iien we o\>- s e r re d tlia t S ir Jo lm was no t lik fly to have occu* p ied a s ta tio n which th e y assigned luio, a» such a position would have been unaece&baray perilous, th e y answered, h e was h rav e enwigih to have

placed h ím sclf aiiTwhrrc. “ Q uite bravo enough. Señor, tü lutvtj b w n a fool."

W c roTipludfd o u r crped ition by eQlering tlte e o t t a ^ o f a p{«tAnt, w bcrc 'wc a to come yeUov bre;ul, roade o f In d ian com , an d d ran k aomo bad wine. T h« poor people seeiued bi^ltlv ^ a ü £ e d b> our tbo pcafianta aro pecu lta rljIcnarioQ s coru idera ie i r e s ^ m ^ t £rocn tWcii s u perior«, ttc d tl)«tr ÍBdop<T)dCTico breaks fo rth TB th e ir lacg n aê , an d is atron^ly m ark ed in tb e ir gen era l depoptm cBt: i t ia }ioweTer unm iscd ■with any ta in t o f rq)ubIicaTi rudcneas, an d ia t)ifiTeft»re b y no moanu o ffcnsirr. In Spain, th a t la n d o f ex traord inary contrasta, tlie poasan try have re ta in e d tb c b igh fe« ;lm ^ vîeh Kavc lon^ coaaed to infiuonr« tb e labouring claaaee o f countries la r m ure wisely g iivem ed, $X l ^ t accordm ^ Co th e roccivod n<'tiona o f good govem m enl. E vperieaee aT»d theoTy are bowo\TT som eltm ef atrangely a t v a rian ce ; a pcanantry fu ll o f in d q x m á c n t tecling, dcToted to th e ir country , p roud o f I tc i r ^ s i tá o n fts Spanish pcaaaTits. a a d ctot asp irin g to a Idghci’ condition in th e social scale th a n th a t which is a llo tted ttiem —fearing G ^ d an d bunouru ig tho K in g — a peasan try om buod wilii su ch in ra laab le q\»U liee h as grown u p u n d r r th a t p ricatly go- Tcrnm ent, which id ao continually dfoouncod as CCTtain t o oxtingvi«h every h ig h an d m anly onei’gy.

T h e infiacuce o f the m onks w le a n pcrecptihie

in tlie citie», b a t i t is n o t in the d tie s u f Spaia th a t Spaiiisli v irtu e is principallv to Ik* found. T h e influcDcc o f th e roonlcs is chiefly cxctcised upon iLe lab o u rin g classes an d n o iiner race ü f m en oxistR, in any p a r t o f th e world, th a n tbe agricu ltu ra l classes o f Spain an d P o rtu g a l. I f Ib is position h e tru e , an d I cannot thinV i t will be den ied b y any m an who h as travelled m uch in thotto countries, how can i t b e m a in tú n e d th a t tb e influence of th e convents hac been , iipoD the whole, in jurious to th e w ell-being o f th e people? T h ß P ro teg tan t prcjudicos of the relig ious public o f Gr<?at B rita in , nitturally indisposed to monanti^ establibhinouts, buvu forined a strange aihaoce upon th is |)o in t w ith th e infidel portion o f tlie C atholic worid, which i^ unanim ously hostile to th e ir continuanco, an d Lave thu s le d th e E n g lish m ind in to a g rea t th o u g h general crror.

W h en accidentally detained hy a K oyalist guerilla , a few years before th e perio d to which I am now allud ing , some observations which I th e n m ad e confirm ed m e in th e opinion ju s t expressed . T liey w ere heuioied in h y the rc?o . lu tionary arm y, th e y w ere involved in tb e g rea test peril, a n d i f no t ac tual spectators o f the ma^saero o f Iheir wives an d children in th e p la in below, were y e t conscious o f the events in progrowa, and w ithin h e a rin g o f the ex te rm in a tin g m usketry. A ltho u g h they were wound u p to ph renzy by

«very ciiTUDisUncc th a t could cxcksperatc Xha m ind o f m an, an d gavt? way to th e m ost pas* sionate language, n o t an uatli o r i r r e l i ^ u s ex» prcssioQ a t any m om ent cscaped tb e ir Ups ; an d % delicacy o f inora i feeUog w as perceptib le oa som cyoin t« . perfectly astonish iDg in m en accue- lo c icd to th e ru d e and lawless hab its o f guerQla w arfare, an d ivho wcro in the daily practice o f exercising tlie m ost iinsparing revenge upon th e ir prisoner» i rm eltie* w hich they regarded w itb coinparatiTc indliierencc, as th e ncccssary resu lt o f th o system adop ted b y th e ir CDcmies, an d consequently aa th e only la e a n a o f m eeting llie ir opponents on eq u a l term s, an d effecti>'cly m ain ta in ing a cause identified in th e ir eyes w ith a ll th a t is g re a t an d holy. T lm t regulation o f m in d wldch enabled them to control th e ir Ian* guage a t su d i a m om ent ol* excitem ent w ai un« questionably th e re su lt o f m onkish influence, and w as s trik in g indeed, w hen com pared w ith the ribaldry and fre<juvnt oatha o f tlic C onstitu tional soldiers, m en fo r th e m ost p a r t tak en fi*om tlic tow ns, aJid com paratively free from relig ious s u u . p ics. T h a t regu la tion o f m ind m ust also have been hab itua l, to have p roduced such resu lts u n d er buch cinrujnstaiices ; an d if so, 1 have con- sidei-able dlificuUy in beheving th a t the Spanish convents have exercised an unlavourablo etlcct o n th e foiTuation, o r in tJie developm ent o f tl»e

n a tb n a l character.

D u rin g flie re n in su lo r w ar th e G allicians ar« eaid ti> havi* dcetrcwed m any tliousends o f tU«ir enerrrioB: tb c \ rc inaia^d ap p arrw ly CDg»fed i n

tb e ir U s u a l occupation». &s ih c ç re a t Frcnch detftcluD^nta roarfbod th ro u ^ i liie ir viliage* j b u t n o sooner h ad th ey passed th a n th e spade n a s

excbangod for the m usket, an d the peaceful pea- s a n t becam c an arm ed a n d form idable opponent. T h u s th e y rapidly fon iied in fo bands, an d as quickly disso^Ted ; fleea rw e l j , b u t h ea rd d f every w here, tb cy c a t ofl* convoys, an d p iil to d e a th the s tiu ^ ^ le rs th a t followed th e iDvading arm y. In one in stance tlioy seduced a la r f^ parfy in to th e ir c o t ta ^ ^ . r « ^ e d them w ith th ^ it b e s t cbe^r, a n d l a i d before ibera ih e rr c h o ic c c t

wincH. T h e soldiers fell in to th e snare , becamc intoxicated, a n d iinally uncoRâdous ; upon whicà th e v i l l a ^ r s secured the doors, and b arred u p tb e windows ; an d th en , fo rg e ttin g every personal consideration in a d e fp semie o f tb e narlooal wrongs, ih ey set fire to th e ir own d\vcUiug8, and, re tre a tin g to a neigld)ouring eminence, beheld, w ith sto ru deligh t, tb e progress o f th e flames, ivbicli carried desolation in to tho lx>som o f th e ir lu n ilie s , b u iin ilie to d a m oet d readfu l re ta lia tion on th e oppressai« o f Spahi. T hey saw in ¡dlence th e ir d w e ü in g « sink in g successively a p re y to the d c f During elem ent : th e ir womcB, tbo ir very child re n disdained to b rea the a com plaint ; every so fter feeîiüg was lost in an orcrw holm ing desire

fo r vengonnce. N o t a word was spoken t i l l the la s t roof h ad fa lk n in ; n o t a sound w.is h « u d u n til h wfl* ev ident th a t none o f t i e i i d ero ted guCfeU w ould ever <iuit th e ir bui-D ing to m b ; >nit th e y th en gave ven t iv th c i i supp ressed ¡>»8- gicm in a fierco an d oxulting sh o u t; there was jnoTe eloquencr, ther« w as m ore deep diftinte- reatednoH«, 1110:12 was m ore genuine patriotigro in th a t w ild h u rs t o f o a lu ra l feeling tliao in all iJu* stud ied declam ations o f the Cortes.

W e rc tu ro ed to C oruoua th ro u g h a p leasan t a n d ioclosod coUT trj*. T h e exocUent position d th e ti>wo, Ihe b eau ty o f ita corironB, an d th e extrem e cheapness o f pro>ision8, w ig h t ren d er it, i n tra n q u il tim es, A desirab le abode fo r E n g lish fam ilies resid ing abroad from m otives d PcoDomy. T h e % a n is h p o s s e * many a d ra n ta g e s over t h i l ^ u g u e s c to « w ; fo f a lthough often situ a tsd am id delighrful eccnory, th ey ore gcncraUy placed on level ground. L isbon, O porto , an d Coim br» are. on th o contrary, b u ilt on the sum m its and aloog th o slopes o f s t « p h i l ls ; a ciiccm siaacc na ru ra lly p ro d u c liv e o f g re a t ineoavonlenoc to a resident. T h e re is also far m ore beiwity in the appearance o f a Spanish, p a rticu la rly o f an A n- dalnsian to w o ; ao d th e p e rtb rt doanline«« o€ th * s tre e ts is delightfu l io an E ag lishm an-

T h c forliCeatkjns o f C om noik are Tiom in tolc- r f th k r q w r ; and had th ey Iteeo less dU apidaled

in IbOO, Sir Jo ! io M oore m igh t p o ssib lj h a re dofecded the town till th e F ren ch iia d been comp elled to re tire , from the scarcity o f proviuons, I was filiown the h o m e w heiv th a t g a llao t officcr expired , an d liea rd som e parliculai*s conncotcd w ith hia d y in g injuncliona th a t increased tho iotercfit I n a tu ra ll j felt, as an E n g lish m an , iji h¡» &«te. T h e circum stances a ttc iid in g h is in ten n en t

liave l*oen w ild an d hujT 'cd iu d c o d ; fo r the F ronch were already in pw ses»iun o f th e suburbs, an d th o B ritls li Army was rap id ly em barking wlien a few faith fu l officers non signed thclr re» vered C om m ander to th e tom b, ITe was buried on th e lonely ram p art, by the side o f the roaring sea, b en ea th th e dim l ig h t o f a clouded mooD, and h ie funeral obsequies were graced by the hoary aonnd o f th e hostile cannon, th en p la> iu g with fearful effect o n th e dcp artiiig titiops. Sinco th a t tim e a m onum ent h as been erer.tcd over the placo o f h is burial, an d an inscrip tion h as been aifixed b y the B ritish C onsul, record ing th e circum stances o f Ills death , in sim ple a n d n ia n lj language,

I visited th e little b ay o f O rcun , w here so m any fine K nglish horses w ere s lau g h te red ; an d saw som e curious speeimcne o f petrified wood scatte red a lo n g th e coast. O n th e following d ay I h ea rd th a t a steam «boat, fitted ou t for,tbo assistance o f th e G reeks, an d actually p itjceed ing to

Grecco, hft'l a rrived in tbe harbour. T iie m ilitary rrico u n d e r whoec com m and i t w as callcd uj)on tlio C o n su l T h e y b ad suffered from a heavy ga lè i and, in an a ttem p t to g a in tho p*>rt, h ad stm cli upon some rc*cka a t th e entranec ; an accident eolclv* oecajloned b y the incapacity o f the p ilo t, a s i l i0 n a v ia t io n o f th o ha,rl>cur ia m ost caay, th e rocks viinblc, an d th o wfttcr b e tween them deep.

T b c n ex t m orn in g 1 was aw akened b y cries o fL a hoTca a vapore V' an d l ie tfd from A ntonio

th a t anoUier etoam -vessel had arrived , which proved to h e m y o ld friend tb e “ D u k e o f Y ork." I v is ited it, in com pany w ith the C onsul an d tbe officers o f hea lth . A b v»*e approached th e ship , I reco|?nÌ8od w ith p k a sn re an d 6uq>ri»« m y friend L o rd C lem ents, an d also saw C ap ta in Boyce, who h ad shown m e manv k in d a tten tio n s d u rin g m y voyage to L isbon.

O n th e p reced in g day, th e Spaniards, who h ad never before soon a steam -vessel, b ad e^pressed th e g rea test anx iety to go on board ihe G reek steam er, an d exam ine h e r in te rn a l cconomy, and m any applications liad been m ade to th e C aptain , who h a d fixed upon a £>articalar h o u r fo r the reception o f th e num erous appllcaule; h u t in the m ean tim e a fa r g rea te r po ien tate , b is B oyal H ig h n ess o f Y ork, a itived , and h is appearanec w as as fa ta l to th e splendour o f th o G reek aa-

sem hly aa a p a rty g iven b y h e r G race o f G ordoa would liave })een destructive o f »ay o th e r o n t e r -

iuT im cnt audaciously ^ ivec on t h e sam o nigiii. 1 a p c D t th o eveo icg w ith M r. an d M rs. B a rtle tt , to whoso kindness I w as m uch in d eb ted d u r in g m y sho rt s tay a t CoruimH, and ac^rood to sail CIoiDonts on th o following day to Fer?ol.

I n c4!^n»e<{u«ncc o f th o ne ighbouring d o ck y ard ^ C orunna g radually ro(»e in to impwrtancc d u rm ^ th e la s t century^ an d b e in g one o f th a nearest po in t« o f cvmmunicaHon w ith E n g fan d , i ts nam e becam e fam iliär to tlie B ritish pubhe e r e a bcfora th e m em orable b a ttle (ought in i is ▼idnity. A c th e in h ab itan ts o f C o iu n n a w ere ootoriousiy a tta ch ed to th e C onsliiu tionai cause, th e w a t o f A e p r im n c i^ governm ent h ad bcco la te ly rem oved from th a t tow n to Santiago, which was orig inally th e capita l of G a llk ia ; a m eaauie ju s t in itself, b u t ealculatod to inexraae th ed is> oontcnt a lready c rea ted a t C orunna by some iiyudifcious rcgiil aliens. A lm ost «very article o f consum ption b ro u g h t in from lii* coun try to th e tow n was sutqect«?d to a ta x , h igh ly in ro n re« « » * lA i(a operation , as Uie peasan ts w ould n o loifgac supp ly th e m ark e t w ith poultry , &&, w ilhout Bpefiüe o rd e rs : heavy d u t i ^ impO)$ed on s a lt h ad deprcfisod th e sa rd iuc trad e , aoo thcr gnevance senalbly f«dt b y th e poor, who subsist p riiic ips^y i ^ n these fiih . I he^rd tb a t silver was g ra^

C H . I V . ] S P A N I S H C X > ^ « T iT U T 1 0 N A '. l R 'f » . 1 4 3

dually becom ing scarce th w u g h o u l th e country, an d have no d o u b t th a t such w«3 th e fact.

i m et w v cra l officerà who Jiad served in the Conelitutifm dl a r» y , an d w rre actually in ft sta ta o f fTc;it dftstituticpD, O ne o f thosft nnfortunato »CD assured m e th a t h is jMky w as reduced I’rom fifty dollars a m o n th to tw elve j a n d even th is dim inished allowance was th e n fou r m onths in a rrear. I l ia k jt w as certa in ly severe: h e had so rted w ith distinction th ro u g h o u t th e P cnin- « i la r w ar. and h a d tak en no p a r t in th e inaoiroc- tion o f I ttóO, o r in th e subscquCTil craeweB o f the Bcvolution i l>ut was now auperaedod b y yoimg an d iti experienced officers, and condem ned to p a w th e evening o f h is dava in penury an d disgrace, H e said , w ith b itt« rn e tt, th a i « m e of th e C oM tirudonal offiters h a d d ied o f hunger, w d th a t tl»e o ld eoldiera h a d lo s t n»0Fe th ao tw enty year* o f lif« Wy tbe events o f IStóO. H i» language, upon th e whole, w»is tem p era te : h e condem ned th e a rb itra ry proeoodinga o f the C o rtes , tóid spoke o f M artinex d e la E oaa te n n a o f eomniendaticD»

B u t thuB it ever is w ith the* Spanish C onstitu tionalist» .' I have seen them on th e p innacle o f prcBspcnty ; I have ween th em ia th e depth« o f mis- fortune. W h en eo m p d led to e s t th e b itte r b read o f sorrow an d d id r e « , tiic trv iew « a re te m p e ra te t t e i r charity un iversa l 5 th ey tJien adcnow ledg« l à » value o f a n endow ed e tn rc li ; th ey u « aor-

p ressed w ith th e imiDonse advaQ(«ge» resiiltiog from a second cham ber; aod, in a t ^ l y C hrislian fram e o f laind, ouly wish for th e c ^ b U íL iu e n t o f somo elcm entarj' principles o f represe Dtaiive go* T cm m ent whicli may spcuro liberty o f ptfrson and u nd istu rbed eojoym ent o f p ro p e rly : yc l »hen th e clond h as passed away, ao d tlie tev o lu tio n arj furli((ies havo become trlum pbunt, tlie mordent' t io n o f ad re rs ity , a n d th s repcn tancc o f li«î* lia tlo n fire equally fo rg o tte n ; a n d perhaps no partv iu m odem tim es h as en te rta in ed moFd im practicdblo views, o r w aded th ro u g h a deepCT sea o f gu ilt, th a n th e tru ly m lsnauicd Li't>eral p a r ty o f Spain.

“ I never in d u lg ed in th e hope," h e sa id , “ th a t your governm en t w ould in te rfe re lo p rev en t the F ren ch Invasion ; i l is n o t consonant w ith Bnti&li in te re s ts tb itl S |)ain should possess an encrgetic go v ern m en t/' H ow far tb e estab lishm ent o f a v igorous governm ent in S pain w ould b e favourable lo th e gen era l in te re s ts o f G re a t B rita in is no easy m a tte r to d e te rm in e ; b u t n ev er was a aounfler policy ad o p ted b y any adm in isira lion th a n th a t w hich praclieally d irec ted the councils o f th is country, w ith reference lo th e in ras io u o f Spain b y th e F rench arm y in 1S23, H a p p y i t was in deed fo r th e welfare o f th e B ritish people, and fo r th e un iversal in lereeis o f E u ro p e , th a t the m io islers o f th o crow n were n o t goaded b y the exftggcratioas o f th e p ress, an d b y th e clam our

o f an Q l-judgiog p o ilio n o f th e couaWy, in to a w ar w ith F ran ce , fo r the w k e o f a syalcin eice- c ra ted by a g re a t m ajo rity of tliC Syanish £>eoplc, and incom patible w ith th o tran q u il existence o f any H u ro p can m onarchy.

O n th e fbllowiDg d ay 1 em barlced w ith C le m en ts In an open bo a t, an d was r w c d across tlie w ater to I 'c rro !, W e en te red a narrow arm of th e aea, a n d on lan d in g drliverod our le tte rs to th e CoosuL w ho in troduced u* to the G overnor, a n infirm o ld m an. H e received iis conrtoously, an d asked m e m any questions reBi*etiing tho ac tu a l e ta te o f l i s b o n . th e numbei* a n d digpo- sition o f th e ti'oops, an d th e in ten tio n s o f the B ritish governm ent, w ith which I was whoBy. u aacquain ted . M y answ ers w ere fo rtuaate ly g u ard ed , for, in fact, th ey were carefully re- eordiid, an d an y in d iscree t expression w ould cer- tw n ly have b een a ilerw ards b ro u g h t u p in ju d g m en t againbt m e. W h e n 1 praiBed th e fine, p u re clim ate o f Spain, b e answ ered briefly, b u t those few words im plied a m ournfu l constiouîness o f h er pow erless s la te . A lth o u g h he liressed me to sp en d th e day io h is houge, I have every reason to beUe>o th a t h e suspected m y in ten tions in v isiting F e rro l, an d roccm m ended th e arb it r a ry m easures w hich were afterw ards adop ted

g a i n s t me.I n th e even ing we exp low d tlie aw enal and

dockyards. T h e room s in wHi<^ Ü » m asU a a d cabl&i w ere m ad e were excellen t > th e apart- m eu ts devoted to i \ c cari>€DtCT«, tm itb s . a a d variocis workmen eroployed in th e construction o f sh ips, were aJso adm irab ly ad ap ted to U io r respective porpoees. B a t a ll a re now deserted, a n d cm th e spo t w iierc, fo rty years aô, so v e r^ th o u san d w orkm en were actively engaged , none a rc a t p re sen t regularly , a n d b u t few occasionally em ployed. T w o frig a tes w ere ly in g unfinished, from th e w an t o f funda to com plete them . 1 ta w th e blocks an d cables in ten d ed fo r th e ir use, a n d considering th e l i tt le practice o f th e work- Bicn, ^ a s suq)ri«cH to find them so well made- M y g u id e assu red m e th a t h e rem em bered f o r ^ m en-of.w ar, which averaged eigh ty guns, ly ing m th e d eep an d spadoua b a s in ; b u t, w heu I T isited th e harbour, th e re was no t even a solitary frig a te , i f we except th e tw o th a t were unfinished.

W h ftt s ingu lar refleetions d o th e se facts su g g e s t 1 H ow forcibly does F erro l, in i ts presen t s ta te , im press th e m ind w ith th e cnm plete decay o f Spanish resources ! I n w hat s trik in g colours docs i t show th e v irtu a l ex tinction o f th a t pow er w ithin th e lim its o f whose em pire th e su n never s e tJ T h a t des<Tted ba«iD, th o se g igan tic h u t u n tcn an ted apartm ents, erectcd a t an enorm oos expense, In ii now prumblicig in fo ru in , n o t <»nly ^ w tb e in ab iliiy o f th e governm ent to condact

operatioM on tb e i t fo ro o r ica)e, b u t otod to keep tb e m igh ty s iru e tn re i n rep a ir.

I q u illed Clemejat« w ith r e g r e t ; b e re to ra e d to C o fu n m , m U nding to continae b i t Toyage t o

L isb o a b j tb c D u k e o f Y o rk . H e re I finally reoocneed adl is teo tio n o f TÙitiDg G ijoa, i seapo rt on Ib e cofi*t o f A stu riaa , w à se t oÉf foe Logo.

T h e inqu iries wbicsb I llie a m ade ab o n t G ip a coo lriba tcd to a trcn g lb cn Ib e suapióons yftóch, i t afìefirar<is appeared , were a t th is lim e e n te rta ined b y tlie S pan ish au tborities re sp ec tin g tbc objccts o f toy journey . T o tbem I could n o t

an y expU nftlion o f m y m otirB in dcsirm g to deriftte so ià r from m y g en e ra l lin e o f rout© to r iH l a a unim porttm l seaport ; an d I re lu c U a d y inform th e ?cad er o f tb e te a l cause, as olberwwo b e w ould baxdly eom prebaid tb e sequcL and m igb t iTnpute to m e an overw eeiring lo re o f xisc* k e s entCTprise- T lie fa e t is , th a t G ijon was painftilly associated w ith m y earliest iraproasioae.

W h e n I waa f\m le a ebild, m y uncle, C ap U in H ____ , sa iicd for Spain, n o t in h is naval capacity, b u t as an in d ió d u a l anxious to beho ld th a t g rea t display o f p a trio tic feeling which w as t h ^ fijcing th e a ttcn tio a o f E u ro p e o n th e Feninsula. H e qwitted E n g lan d , b u t n e re r re tn rned H is T oyage w as prosperous, an d h e reached th e Spw iisb «oast in aofcly, Im t wag oncxpectcdly

u 2

lo s t a t th e eo trance o f th e p o r t o f G ijon, in th e s ig h t o f num erous spectators, ^ n d while theif shouts o f wcbom<* w ere ringing: in h is ea rs . T he OTcrwhclmidg intcllig;cnco o f th is ev en t m'ss b ro u g h t to u s in th e W e s t o f E n g la n d on a b eau tifu l sum m er evcm ing; an d tliough m ore th a n tw en ty years have e lapsed , I still re ta in a v iv id reoollcction o f a ll th e circum stances o f th a t eventfu l day,

I was s ittin g b y tlie sick couch o f one—

“ A ll in g « l w f r , th o « ^ b LittW 1««» U u n all

W b i k y e t a jQ l |^ t a in ib is m a id b«low,”

read in g the cap tiv a tin g ta le o f B ob in H o o d and h is m erry m en in th e grocn forest, an d occa-,

sionally looking o u t on th o d eer s ta lk in g am id th e h ig h fern, th e waving woods, an d th e shadows len g th en in g as th e buu san k lower in th e west. 1 recollect th is chUdish ocfupatlon b e in g abruptly in te rru p ted b y ray d ear F a th e r 's enddon entraTico. T h e deep despa ir which h is countenance ex pressed in th e first m om ent o f p o ig n an t afliiction for th e loss o f a B ro th e r whom h e hiid loved in no o rd in ary degree, is s till im prin ted on my m ind. H is em otion only filled m e w ith terror an d gurpriec, for I w m th en to o y o ung to com* p rehcnd im m ediately th e c t i w an d ex ten t o f hia grief-

I t so chanced th a t ab o u t th is tim e th e sky , till

th en unusually sereno, l»ecamc suddenly overcast, ÜJC wind aro&e, an d a pitiless sto rm b e a t a^jainet th e 5»indowB as if th e heavens were c b a n ^ n g in sym pathy w ith our a llcred foclings.

T h e n a tu re o f th e coast o f G ijon, i ts perilous l>ar, an d th e w ild sea th a t dashed over i t o n tJio uD fortonate day o n which jn y uucle perished , were for several m onths a s u i t e d o f ca-mest con* Tecsation. T h ese circum stances were calculatedlo leave an indeU hle im pression on th e young m in d ; Üme h as n o t effaced them from m y m em ory, and p robab ly n ev er will. A s a child 1 was anxious to beho ld th e scene o f the catastrophe, an d even in m anhood a alm iU r feeling, growiLg o n t o f early associations, an d »fronger th an 1 like even now to confess, nâde sue w ish to underlako a voyage, ra th e r hazardous a t th a t tim e o f th© year, in a l i tt le tra d in g vessel to G ijon. I was how erer p rev en ted from execu ting m y pur^Kwe b y a cen tlnuance o f adverse windí» ; b u t nay in tention , th o u g h never carried in to effect, produced singu lar a n d uoexpected resultó.

C H A P T E R V.

C utiooB CBctom« «fth« — D on F r lh v *A B th w 4fT«M«d— 8 U (« e f Partí«« m S fw n .—A avcdM « » f £ i a fF u fd in B n < l> ô u (r\« y (o S»f<(Í*go in jh U « Ttoy«lis( Volim Ncf» — R uiite tts B u H (lIn g ^ ] tfib b « t l ^ l « s o f tb e 9 p sn b ifd ~ S u |i(4 p U Ü M J o f tfa* & v u U r, « r W >lf-ÍTTynl¿f—At n i ) ; Iv ^ t l DiUM;— S u p e tf t i l io s oT tb « N c g t c ^ L u J i o i o * d lj- ««nfttuTc «f la &tadde>

l ^ r i K u Ferrol 1 continued my jonm cy to t¿e «outL, aad travcllm g through a eouotr; wild, hUaV. aad only partiailj cultiv&ted, arrived ftt L ugo in tbe beginning o f Noyenibcr. F icd iag that I bad rcftcbcd iho town at too late an hmir in the day (o olitain prorlsicms. I went to a neigh* tou rin g tavem . and was »up|>lted with food n th e r resem bling Ibsn tasting like meat. T b e tavcm was small, mh^ v, and crowded w ith peasants; among whom I saw B u n ; muleteers, fr<»m a par* ticular district in the neighbourhood o f Awtorga, called maragattos from their verj remarlâble dress They wore the scarf and large brimmed hat o f cVdvalrous CastUo^ while tbcir full, long drawers »eemed to bespeak a Moorish extraction ; but some bellevo them to be descended frcm a Boraan colony, and tlda part o f th d r attire

to b e T ^ i h e t R o t n n T i tliiin M ahom etan. T b e d w k b u t g iia ten ing ieath<?T, which co rered th e ir b rc* d c&c«t» I’k e » p roU cting b roaal-p late. resembked •n fio u r partiaUv* itaiocc! witJi n is t , « i d conW ned m lh th e ir h a rd a n d w eather-beaten y iia g c i to give th(ir> th e appeaw nce o f o ld feudal TeUincrs.

I »ftCTwards called on D o n Felii»pc M orod*, th e C om m andant o f th e town, fcnd, «hirm g h k Icm porM y ahsencc on crfficial busuaeas, x*onvcr»d w ith h is daugh ter, a p lcasu ig an d in tem g en t person, T h o u g h young, she h ad bocn ra u d i o f {he world, ao d h ad evid«otly p ro fited b y h e r obsrax'Sktion*. N ea r h e r w as sea ted a lad y , ap* p u ren tly a re4atiTC> w hose counlenance beam ed w ith good hum our, b u t ahe g»vc n o indications o f th a t en ltiv a tcd undnrslw id ing w hich distin* guislied h e r com panion. T h e y w ere b o th a iu io n a to a sc C T t^ w hether I b ad m e t certa in Spanish Trfogees in th e course o f m y w anderings, an d i f I knew apy particu lars o f ih e ir Cate. T h e yoking lady , who h ad p robab ly eomc te n d e r m oiive fo r inquiry , repea ted ly le d th e conversation to th e » m e p o in t, b n t so g rad u a lly , a n d w ith so m w h gtacfi an d tact, tb a i 1 d id n o t im m ediately suspect * a t h e r questio n s w ere d ic ta ted b y any stronger fee ling th a n curiosity. W h ile she displayed « ra- n d c m b le know ledge o f fo re ign eountric*, I was o ften am used b y th e crude opinions w hich th e e id e r lady e rp re sse d upon g enera l »ubjw t«, an d

h e r exclamatioDs o f w u D c I e r o n tl ie s ta tem en t o f Tcry ord inary fact«. S h r exH biled a ludicrous deg ree o f am azem ent w hen I a l lu d t^ in c id e n t)^ / to t l ic B ritish C on»tilu tion , as she h ad never b o ard o f its e u s tc n c c ; a rnanrfestatiun o f ig;no- ran cc ev idently aim ojing; to m y ftiir y o ung friend, who ehcckcd h e r, b u t in so l ig h t an d dellcdte a m anner, th a t h e r rep roo f was n e ith e r painful to th e person who received, n o r to th e byi»taa<Ier who heard it.

W o were jo in ed a t d in n er b y h e r b ro ther, a fine young officer, an d aftcrvratds b y Muîcoeo, who was M in is te r o f th e In te rio r d u rin g th o r&- Toiution o f l82 il. l a ih e «vcning wc wall^cd ro u n d the w alls o f th e to w n : th e foundations arc ancicn t, b u t the supcrstr«ctu rc was hastily raised by Q uiroga, in I B ^ , w hen th e F rench troop« w ere advancing upon Lugo.

1 re tu rn e d to th e in n a t a la te hour, an d tc* t ire d lo rest. In the m idd le o f th e n igh t I was aw akened b y m y servant, who to ld m e th a t some ofllcers o f tlie police were w aiting below to accom pany m e to th e Tow n-hail, whore m y presence w as requ ired . T ire d a r d sleepy, ao d g rea tly d isinelined to com ply wii.h th is ill*timed inv itation , 1 speedily d ism issed A ntonio, an d h is dis* m issal w as quickiy followed b y a sate llite o f office in propria perw nd . H e en te red th e room descan ting h u g e ly on th e g ro ss indecorum o f my

conduct in presum ing to sleep wlieu th d K ing 's au tb o n d es were them selves deprived o f sleep on my account« an d u rg e d m e to h so sa 1 valucd m y rep u ta tio n for loyalty.

Sundry guaran tees for m y appearauco on the n e s t d a j haT ioi' been ten d e red a n d r^ e c te d , I b ad no alternative ; so, following m y garrulous diatiirbor, ! w en t to the Tow n-îialî, w here I found th o A uthorities assem bled. 1 Ix îgged to know th e ir reason fo r sum m oning m e a t sucb an vn* usu a l hour, b u t could n o t ob ta in a d irect answ er; an d although th e ir lan g u ag e ind ica ted a s trong jiuspicion o f som e p a r t o f m y conduct, 1 was unab le to diecover th e clrcum ntauccs upon which i t watt founded^ o r th e p o in t to which i t fended. I t wftB, however, cvidoni, from th e ir quc^tiooa, th a t th ey viewed m y jo u rn ey in to th a t p a r t o f the coun try w ith uneasiness, a n d w ere peculiarly jealous o f m y com m unications w ith M uscoso and M oreda. F o r som e tim e they p re ten d ed to find f iu l t w ith m y passport, b u t when th ey were feirly driven from a position wholly untenable , th ey p retended to 1>e in ¡>ossession o f facts w hich they refused to reveal, b u t which, according to their statem ents, fully authorized tho ir proceedings.

Â fle r m uch vexatious discussion 1 re tu rn ed to th e inn, accompaTiicd b y a yoxuig officer, who requested n^c to breakfast w ith him o n th e fbDow- in g m orning, an d u rg e d his inv ita tion so wannly,

h 3

l3i*t I «m !d n o t dccHnc it . M o w « a na tive o f A ndalusia, an d from m y know ledge o*‘ th e A u- dftliiriao « á a r tc tc r , froru Úte lig h t «m í boat»tM jn an n cr in which h e spcko o f th e numeroua íHcnd« h e w ould in r itc to m ee t me, an d from hi* ev iden t connexion w ith th e A uthoritio», I h*Te n o d o u b t h e v n s perfectly awwR th a t eircum-

w ocld efTectiiaJly preT cnl m e from p u ttin g fais ho«pitaU tj to th e test.

O n th e lblk»wing m orn ing I found w yself p laced u n d er arrobt, an d u n ab le to leavo the in n , a g u a rd h e in g sta tioned a t th e door. In th is dilem m a 1 w rote to m v fticn d th e C om m an d an t, requeedng h im to o b ta in m j release, o r. a t all cvcmts, to acqnain t mo w it^ th e na tu re o f th e charge« p re ferred ag a in s t m e. H e immo- d ia te ly cam c to th e in n ,, an d inform ed m e th a t 1 h ad b een stre sto d o a po litical grounds, express- in g a t th e sam e tim e g rea t in d ig n a tio a a t the eondoct o f the civil au thorities, w ith whom he was o y id cn tlf a t rw ia n e c ; for, indeed, h e intin iatod th a t m y comm unications w ith M uscoso an d him se lf lia d ^ e r ip i la to d in y a rre r t.

T o sucit a curious s ta te d iso rgan isation wa« th e S pan ish governm ent reduced in 182?, th a t Ihc com ponent m em Lers o f th e lo<'al adm inistrations wore engaged in w atch ing an d coun terac ting eacli o th e r a t a tim e o f g r«a t generaJ alarm , a n d when th e calm co-operation o f the e ir il authorities was

C H . V."] <*ATALAS* IH S C B R R C T IO N a 1 5 5

peculiarly reriuísítc. I t m u st b e reifleml>ercA th a t a civil « á r was th e n ra g in g ia C atalonia, had inoreased t o so g rea t an ex ten t, th a t th e K ing h ad actoaU) left Maari<l. and . m th e hope o f checkingi t s p r o g T C M . had proceeded to T arragona-

I l HO happened, th a t w hen 1 q u itted S ^ n m 1822, th e CataVans w ere carry ing on a deadly war- faro will» tb e ir governm ent; an d now, w hen 1 re- entCTüd th e kingdom , after a lapse « f five jeaxB,I found th a t m artia l people engaged in another despcraK? conflict 'D ie m ode in which th e ins or* gcnls conducted th e ir operations was sim ilar in L o th these arduous s tru g g le s ; b u t the prm cipie, apon w hich th e ir opposition lo the governm ent was fo an tied, h a d roaterially changed . I n 1822 Üicy cn jo jcd th e syiflpathy o f every generous mind, lo r th e m otives which inipelled them to arms were g re a t a n d g en e ro u s ; thüy Ib u g h i fo r a ll th a t u d ear to th e {rcem an.for landn iw ke cherished from hoyhood, for prisilpge« hallowed b y tim e, fo r righ ts in h e r te d from their ancestors; th e ir passions were k indled by th e n ight o f th o revered teachers o l lhciv fa ith driven from th e ir a ltá is , hom eless an d houae- le s s ; th e ir a rm s were ra ised in drfence o f one who h a d erred , perhaps, b u t who w as still th e r ^ r e - sentatiTe of th e ancien t m onarchy—^ f th a t m ighty p ile u n d e r whose p ro tec tin g ro o f th ey liad grown an d s treng thened , undor which th e ir g re a te s t spirits h a d b een reared , t o which th e ir fondest

recollections attached, and w hich th e 9iK*iIer bought no t to reform , n o t to repair, b u t u tte r ly a n d rcmoreeltfssly to destroy

I n th a t g re a t no rth ern s tra g g le o f 1822. C a ta lon ia w en t Ib rth lion*hciu1 e d ag a in s t the op|>rcs- io r, K avarre, aud A ragon, an d Bisi-ay followed in h e r waVc, an d th e ir appeal ag a in s t th e misgoTem - m cn t o f th e C ories fijund an echo iu evxry loyal h ea rt, an d in every corner o f the kingdom , t ìu t in 1827 the C atalan insurgents w ere l e a d e d to- ged ic r for r e ry dilTerent purpose*. 'ITiL-ir loaders were impeUed b y tw o motives : th e first w as to increase the asocndency o f the C hurch, as the only effectual barrier against any fu tu re assum ption o f pow er h y the C onstitu tionalists ; an d th is object m any o f them proposed to effect b y re-esta- hUehing th e Inquisition, an d b y arm ing i t with a ll th e pow ers i t possessed in th e moMt dism al period o f Spanish history. T h e ir policy was in thia resqh'ot m istaken ; for h a d th ey succeeded in re s to rin g an d ren d e rin g th a t tr ib u n a l a n o]>prcfl- sive eng ine o f governm ent, such a m easure would h a re created g rea t d isconten t in the towns, and have p rec ip ita ted tlie fidj o f the ex isting in stitu tions: th e resto raü o n o f the In iju isition . a lte red and iiiiproTcd. 80 as to m eet th e im proved sp irit and th e m ore hum ane polic}' o f th e p resen t day , m igh t have been a proceeding n e ith e r unwise nor un*

• F o r 4 * U d a d m itu i# th a t M e l th e A u th o r, in J9 2 2 . acDooe th a M C a i a W io iu rg fia i« , t id * N o t« a t û m v a i e f \b>a ««iucac.

u n p o p u la j; b n t th e InquuitloTi, Uie whole Inqui- Mtion, an d ncrthj»g b n t th e Inquisition , resto red in its a a iic n l sp irit, an d w ilii i ts anc icn t rigour, could only have been niftm tw ncd b y a system of rigilaTtt peraccutioD, which w ould haTc ultlioately recoiled on th e ir own beads.

T o tliis desire o f increasijig th e ascendency o f th e C hurch was ad d ed an u n g t f s em able th irs t o f Tcngeance. p roduced b y tlie t)T anny o f th e Corte» d u rin g th e ir day o f p o w er; and , considered in th is lig h t, tlie second C atalan ineurrection m ay h e tru ly »wd to have resu lted from ihe first- T h a t d readfu l comjnotion, il\c g re a t no rth ern revo lt o f iS 22 , in whicli e ighty thousand persons a rc s ^ d to have perish ed in th e field an d on the waifold, h ad le ft inex tinguishable feuds, an d in jiu ics th a t eonld only be appeased b y blood. D u rin g th a t s tru g g le deeds h ad b een done which could no t b e fo rgo tten , crim cs h ad b een eouim itl^d b y the C onstitu tionalists which could no t l>e fo r^v en . Prisoner« hftd h een s laugh te red a fte r th e fight was o v e r; an d peaceful civilians, d rag g ed from th e ir hom es, h a d been bu tchered w ithout a form o f trial, for no specific o (fence, b u t solely because th ey en terta ined opinions h ijstile to the ru ling paW y! T lie y feU, b u t fidling th ey bequea thed to th e ir k insm en a legacy o f h a tre d an d retfcnge, n o t likely to b e neg lected by the fiory C;*la!an.

T h ese nôtivc« influenced th e leaders o f the

in&urtoclk>n o f 1827^ whilo th e m isJudgiD^ crowd t h a t ra llied roQod th e ir s ta n d a rd believed K in |; i^ e rd ica sd to l>c s till a p risoner in th e haods th e ir form er enem ies—th a t CoDstatutioijal Action« so notoriously hosrile to th e M ooarchy a o d the C hurch . T o ih e surprise o f hi# iriudnous t>uh> jec ts , ho appeared am o n |' tiiem , h e spoko, “ R t d id o c/itK» Itm iH a i»juoTa pi<sc<jt.' I l l s presence res to red a deluded peop le to th e ir lo s t allejâD ce; an d th a t insurrection , w h k h h ad baiHed all the eflbrtB o f th e goTcrnm ent, w hich h ad been g ra dually e rtcn d fn g . an d a t len g th th rea ten ed to conyulse th e whole k ingdom , wag a t ortce and com pletely d iss ip a ted : th e astou ished peasants, disc'cverih^ th a t th ey h a d acted in opposition lo th e ir Sovereign’s will, forsook th e ir loaders, aban> doned eveu th e ir priests^ an d cam e in crowds to th e ^ e s c n c e , confessing th e ir e rro r, anti im ploring th e royal clemency.

W h en 1 w as arrested a t L u g o in 1827, Uiis, the sccond insurrection , w as a t i(a lie i^h t, a n d the i«5ue s till doubtfuL B u t th o u g h ih c elvil w ar wa« eonKncd to th e eastern proTincos, & secret s tru g g le was a t th a t perio d e a rn e d o n th roughou t S pain betw een th e partisans o f th o ac tual m in istry a n d tho se who strove to estab lish a m ore rigorous an d in to le ran t system . T h e io sn rg en ts were caUod CaiUsts, bccausc th e y professed th e p r in ciples a ttrib u ted , 1 believe un justly , to D on

Carlos, th e K ing ’s b r o t L e r , whose e lc ra tio n io t h e f J i r o i i e , h o w c T c r i r r e g n l« th e m ode b y which i t m u st th en h av e l>con effected, waa still desiied b y th e u ltra-H oyftlist f e t t i o n , as tb e reiid ieit m eans o ro b ta ia ia g a governm ent mo?e oongenisJ te th e i t views.

B u t th e re w ere mftoy persons l>cloQgiug to th e pTOViDcial ad m iaistra tions wliu ditjclaimod an y connexion w ith ih e m surgen ts, y e t were cla- tDorous for th e adop tion o f cocrdve measure* A gaiost a ll persoDS suspccted o f siny C o n stitu tional tendency . T h e y ad^'ocatcd th is policy, because th ey th o u g h t th e even tu a l success o f th e C arlis ts p robable, an d still m ore bccausc tb ey d e tes ted th e ir tem pera to colleagues, whom th ey looked upon a» th e rem nan ts o f th e C cnsti- tu tlo u a l p a rty , a n d wore consequently anxions to exclude from any share in th e governm ent. Such was th e s ta te o f feeling « h icb th en prevailed am ong th e a u tb o r i t i^ o f L u g o , an d such a s tru g g le , im scen b n t violent, secretly divided official m en over a li those p a r ts o f th e W ngdom which were a o t convulsed b y open w ar. T he C om m andant o f L ogo, D o n F e lip p e M oreda, was a m an o f h ig h honour, nncercJy a ttached to bis royal m aster, b u t averse to in tem pera te m easures, w hile th e liv il au thorities vrero secretly favourable to th e u l t r a - B o y ^ t p a rty , an d therefbre t ^ a r d e d h im w ith jealousy an d dislike.

I t waa carious to o1>tociTC how com plete lj th e C onstitu tionalists appeared to b e fo r^ ttC D ia th e s tru g g le thun m a in ta iscd betw een th e differe n t Boj’a list &cticmB. T o m e, who h ad «oen, iive years before, tb e dem ocratic p rinc ip le tiiu m p h an t th ro n g h o u t Spain, th e C row n sborn o f its p rir i- Icgc» an d cnstiDg only b jsn ffc ran ce , th e gigantic pow er o f th e C hu icb subverted , and th e lan d m arks o f agCd sw ept away, i t seem ed indeed e x tra o rd in u rj ib a t such a to r re n t «bould have HO com pletely subsided, a n d have le ft no tcacc« o f its desolating eourse. T b e distinctive ap p e llation» o f tbc various iârties, wbich served as watchw ords in tb e excitcd days o f th e revolutionary ru le , h ad no t only lout the pow erful spell which th ey once exercised over th e m inds o f their adheren ts, h u t were alm ost obliterated-

0 » m y re ta m to S pain I h ad a new vocabulary to leax'Q, and to bccome acquain ted with in te rests th a t a few years b e lb re h ad n o t an existence. T h e Faetiosos, tb e Serv'ilce, the Coinm uncros, an d th e D escam isados, nam es once frau g h t w ith hope au d te rro r to th e ir rospcetivc friends and enem ies, w ere now swallowed u p In th e all-absorb ing distinctions o f F em an d is ta s a n d C arbstas. B u t a lth o u g h th e p ub lic a tten tio n was rivetted on th e com batant« who th en filled tlie arena, tb e acturs in th e la te trag ed y wore n o t quiescent j fo r tb e C onstitu tionalists s till n ia in ta iaed com-

m uoications w ith th e ir exiled friends in Pcrtu^ral, who wero W atching th e i i J c o f events, an d o n lj w aiting for a favoîrahle opportu n ity to descend on th e coast o f G allicia; n o r >*erc th e authorities regÄfdk*«» o f th e ir m aib inations, fo r tliey k e p t a steady eye u|>on th e ir s lig h tc it movem ents.

T h e Spanish C onstitu tionalists spoke o f their actuid situ a tio n in th e m ost despond ing tcnne. A m an o f ra n k abeuTcd m e th a t a rrests liad been la te ly o f such frequen t occurrence, th a t he b rea th ed h is na tive ^ in f ra r a n d trem hling . “ W o now pray ." h e swd, “ th a t GalUcia, m ay becom e incorporated w ith P o rtu g a l ' T h e t io - lencc o f p a rty anim osity m ost have been j ^ a t , indeed , w hich could have excited, in tlie m ind

a Spaniard , sentim ents so l i tt le congenial to S p« ii»h piHdo. T h e C onstitutionalist* were p re p a re d lo renounce CTcry long-cherished feeling o f na tional an tipathy , were w illing to b e srpa- ra ted from a g re a t an d ancient m onarchy, to lose » g rea t an d gloriou» nam e, an d becom e su b je c t to a m inor and coinparalively insignificant s la te , solely, as h e said, to partic ipa te in th e ad- T anlages re su ltin g from a C onstitu tion em inently aristocratic in its elem ents. Y e t these arc the m en who, in 18Äi, ru sh ed upon a war t l ia t ten n i- n a te d th e ir political c iis ten cc , because th ey would n o t subm it to th e tyranny o f a sceond Cham ber. T h e C onstitutionalibts ilid n o t, however, a tlr i-

b n te to th o K ing , p e n o n a ll j , u n j ac ts o f iodivi* da&l oppreuitM ), 1>ut tc & P^^7> s tro n g e r th a n th o throDO itself.

Pcrliapfl th o wlsost m ao coald n o t h&Te steered ^ io u g H the scA troubles, npoii vrhldi F e rd iiuu id was th e n emlmrXcd, w ith o u t iDCurring m uch cea* rare, a i i c l fa lling in to m&nj ap p aren t en o rs . F o r , w hile th e O o n a t i t u t i o D a l i ? t s were rc » d j to avud themsclTCB o f » ay incidents favoxirable to t l i d r cause, a pow erful faction, in th e coun try an d n th e goTemiBont, w ere ex trem ely irritatLHl b y h is relnct&nce to ad o p t th e views o f the o ltn-U oâliB t p w ty . H e re fused to rem ove from o f i t c e s c f t ru s t m any m oderate m en in whose p e rso w i a ttac liv ion t h e h ad reason to c^nfido, ftod e re a re ta in e d som e ind iy iduals w ho h ad n o t b een in* disposed to th o C onstitu tion . A t th a t p c r ib o s crisis, th e perio d d u rin g which m y G&llictan cxpe> d itio n w as undertaken , h e sTiowed a degre« o f m oral courage w hich h is prcvioGs action« would n o t liave le d ms to e ifpect; a n d te rm in a ted th e insurrection, b y proceeding in person in to the h e a r t o f th e d is tu rb ed distripfftj b u t i t roust b e ad m itted th a t f n q u e n t a o d e ru e l execntions succeeded an d d ieg rao id h is trium phs. A s I am »peaking o f K in g F e rd in a n d 1 w ill aU udf to the

p ecu lia r circnmstaneos u n d er w hich I first •aw him, som o y ears before th e p e rio d to which 1 am now adverting .

T rtv e ilin g , in tk e au tu m u o f 1021 ► w ith my friend, an»l no ir s>y brot>iCT*iis-Uw, M r. P j ire M rived t i tb e ic ii •d jo in in g th e E aniiuU . M y readers m i) p c rh a j« tecoUcet l i ia t th e %*;iQi9h B evolution occurred ip 1820, an d tb a t d u rin g tbe years 1821, 1822, an d in d eed \m til th e oecupation

the te rrito ry b y th e F ren ch arm ies in 1823, tbe coun try was d iatracted b y civil disseriHionB. A t the jw riod o f o u r arrival &t th e E scu ria l, the po p u la r j t t r ly w as com pletely tr iu m p h a n t; tbe C ortes, imbxicd w ith a very dem ocratic «¡OTt, hu rried in lo tb e Trcir^t excesses b y a p a r ty siill m ore -unscropulouB; th e nob ility w ere deg raded a a d tb c ir p roperty p lu n d e red ; th o priesthood k c tc p e rsccu tcd ; th e pow er o f th e crown waa no t curta iled , b u t annibilatiid , an d th e |>er&ou o f tb e K iag insulted . T h e g rea t no rth ern revo lt in fevouv o f th e Crow n b ad a o t ye t broken o u t, b u t th e exaspera tion o f feeling th roughou t th e d iB a ffc c te d

provinces w a s e x tre m e ; tb o EoyaJisU w ere every whore in a #tato o f acUre t h o i i ^ secre t prei>ara- iio n fo r the flpproechiug contcst, an d wore only v a itin g fo r the countemvncc o f foreign pow rrs fo commence the ?|txugglo. T h e f ronch tro o p s were 6 t th a t tim e ra n g e d a lo n g th e P y renean froatLer, « tc n s ib ly to p ro tec t th e F re a c h provinces from th e yellow fever, th en rav ag in g B arcelona, b a t Toally to control th o p ro g re « o f a re \o ln tion , which h a d W o m c aJfogethe? incom patible w ilh

th e safety, o r even th e existence o f th e B ourbon dynasty . A t th a t critical m om ent every liea rt in th e cou rt circle in d u lg ed the hope o f f r e n c h assistance, a n d every loyal eye >*as tu rn e d to F rance .

Soon after our arrival a t th e Ejscurial, wc h asten ed (o see th e palace, which w as shown u s by a Talut, and , as we were afterw ards inform ed, the m ost coniidential se rv an t o f th e K ing . A s wc w ere leav ing th e palace, h e asked uk li’ we wished lo b e pre*icntcd lo h is M ajesty. W e sa id in answer, we hoped to have th a t honour a t M adrid, v lic re tb o B rilibh M in is te r was th e n ret>iding, a n d w here wc Intended to rem ain som e tim e, l i e rep lied , tlia t, i f we desired to see th e K ing , h is M ajesty would dispense w itli tlie i>stablished cti* q ue lte , an d lie would call a t th e in n a t ten o'clock in tlic evening, and conduct u s to th e palace. W e w ere n a tu ra lly su rp rised , b u t as ho seem ed sure o f Ills g round , we n o lo n g er dccUned a proposition so l i ttle in accordance w itb tlie form s tlia t genefa lly su rround a oourt, and which were, m oreover, peculiarly s tr ic t a t th e Spanish palace. In th e even ing h e called a t th e iun, a t th e hour agi'ccd on, and to ld u s th a t tw o o f tjic m inister# h a d arrived from M adrid , b rin g in g hit> M ajesty ih c very a lan n in g in telligence o f a revo lt ju s t b roken ou t a t Seville and C adi*, a t th e insti* g a tion o f the republican p a r ty ; th o K in g wa«

e4>D*rqucDtl) engaged , au d ou r presentatíoD m u it be post.poní*d till th e foUowiDg m orm og. Accord ing ly he appeared Ih e n ex t <3»j and accom- pitniod UB tx> th e p a lace ; an d h av in g conductcd u s Í D to a large apartm cQ t, d ep arted , say in g th a t h e would inform th o K in g o f o a r arrivaK

T hu K in g was in an in n e r room comm unicating, w ith tbe a p a rtm en t in wliich we were loft, and íhroügli which the noble& an d g en tlem en o f the c o u rt wero continually passin g an d repansiog. A s fa r as we conld ju<lge. tho con fision produced in the palace b y the in telligeace ju s t roccived wm extrem o, an d an exproAsion o f th o u g h t an d aoxioiy üveroast ev p rj facc. Y e t no tw ithstand ing the g en era l uneasiness, several persons, jHTCoiriog wo were strangers, paused fo r a m om ent as th ey p assed th rough th o room an d addresflod u s , obviously from a souse o f politeness. A t leng th two gentlem en en te rin g th e a p a rtm en t drew n ear us, an d th e ta lle s t m ade som e g enera l observations. 1 rernem lier replying, civilly no doub t, b u tp e ih a p s a little careloBsly, and ask ing some question in re tu rn , when I observed a n expression o f su rp rise paaa over th e face o f th e individual whom I ad dressed, such as m ig h t be perceptib le on th e countenance o f a w ell-bred m an, a t th e infraction o f som e estab lished conventional form . T liis at- irac ted m y a tten tion , I looked m ore stodfastly a t him , a n d rem em bering a p ic tu re w hich I h ad

be«n conteiDplfttiiig o a l ; th e d&y before in ooethe ap a rtm en ts o f th o palacc, 1 recognised the

K in g r tb e f n tu r e s w ere th e same, th e rxproM tou WM tbc aame— 1 h o d d o doubt. I in s tao tl) ' lêot th « knee accordm g to th o S p aa ish fitsb lon ; the K io ^ p e icn v o d toy ^ e r io u s n is tn k e , goodhs* m ouredly continued the coQver8&tiun for some mtnutci*. a n d th e n depurted w ith th e M arquis ¿ e — , th e m ajor-dom o o f th o palace.

T h u s oudod th u $ir>gtilctf ia tcT ficv . 1 cannot h u t suppose th a t in coosequeacc o f o a r arrÍTal a t t h r C sru ria l d irect from P a ris , a u d before wc h ad T u ited M adrid, a 9\Kpi<km w as o x d ted io th e xnind o f th e Iñ j ig ’s va le t th a t we were secret b a t a f c red ited o rg an s o f th a t F ren ch p a rty a i t h which th e ^ ta n is h fio juH sts, a n d th e K in g hinisc)f, w ere th en in active an d f ^ s t a n l oommunicatíos. P e rh ap s, also, som e cxprcsdiona o f o u r sjm> [« th y w ith th e royal cnnbarrassm eats m ay have s tren g th en ed th is notion. M o lh ’cs, too, wer« quickly im p u te d ; for a t th a t d istu rbed ]>eriod few persons, i f any , traT cllcd fo r th e ir amuse* m cnt. an d d n rin g th e tim e we th e n p&sêd in S pain 1 do n o t lem em b cr hav ing m e t a single person jouTDeying tb ro o g h th e conatry , xmln- flueaced b y p riv a te o r pcüitical bustnes».

N ot was th is KuppoBiüoii. i f roai}y en te rta in ed , impro1>able, as th e eoirrse we undesignedly pur> su ed w ould have b een unquestiooab ly adopted

1)5 a n ; B o ja lis i ag en t, fo r th e E sc u ria l vo# a t tim e th e v c f j cen tre an d Ibcu« o f Bo?UwC

intrigno ; arwl to i ts friendly shade« th e court re tire d irom th& dangerous obtcrv itio ik o f M adrid, tor^CGÌTC its sec re t commuDk’fttions an d pur»U6 i ts »choinc« o f lib era tio n from th e tjrannona bondage o f th e Ocrtoe> uodtEcorcred an d unrn ter- ru p tcd . W e were afterw ards s a l u t i m ore tb a a QDce s i ^ s o f an crp ressiT e n a tu re , to w hidi I bidden a g n i£ ca tiu n w as a ttached , an d w hkh ire rc th e n eo rrcn tly in te rch an g ed am ong th e ad> heren ts o f th e B o) al cause.

O n (h e day h e fo » wo le ft ih e E scn ria l we at* ten d ed th o c o n T c n t church, an d b ea rd t)ie funeral service raagniiicently p c r f b r m e d over one o f Ih« royal infante ju s t deceased : th e even iog vn u fa s t elosing ae v e loft tb c asscm hied crow ds an d passed in to th e sac ris tj : there , w hile wc Ktood oppoaite tb o P erla , g iv ing a la s t U ngorii^ look a t th a t exquisite p roduction o f ItaUiin a r t , twu gen tlem en approached ue, one o f whom, s e p a r a i i j ig from h is coDTpanion, passed closc to a s and sakl, in a low b u t d e a r ro ice, “ Vive le B o i” H e paused fo r a m om ent, apparen tly in expect ation c f th e answerlDg watchword, b u t as we rom alned s i l e n t b e rap id ly withdrew.

T b e ma|S7\ificcnce ra th e r th an th e b e a u ty o f th e E scu ria l palace, th e sp lendour o f th e E sc urial eonvenl, th o cruci u n ce rta in ty o f tb o K in g 's posi-

t i o c . o u r o w n singûlar r c c o g n i t i o D o f t l i a t m o*

p a r c h , t h e r o y e le r y w h ic h hu ng; o v e r t h e cou rt,

a n d t h e m y s te r io u s c v io iQ u n ic a tio n s w ld c h sé e m e d

t o b e e a r r y m g o p í p ih o « o d a r k c lo is t c r s a n d lo n g

c o r r id o r s s o ñ t t c d fo r t h e purpoBO o f in tr lg ;u o .

m a d e a d e e p im p r e s s io n o n m y m in d , a n d I l o n g

r e m e m b e r e d w it h in íp r c s t o u r t í s H t o th e E s^ 'u ria l.

A s h o r t t im e a fte r w a r d s I w a s p r e s e u t c d i n a

m o r e fu n n a l m a o n e r t o t h e K i n g a n d Q u e e n .

T h e Q u e e n w a s j u s t o f a ^ , h a v in g o n t h a t v c i f d a y a c c o m p U sh e d h e r e ig h t e e n t h y e a r , o n w h ic h

a c c o u n t i t w a s k e p t w it h g r e a t s t a t e a t c o u r t : i t

w a s t h e n , h o w e v e r , n o t im e fo r p o m p e v e n t s w e r e

c r it ic a l, t h e r e p u b lic a n in su T r c c tio n s o f C a d iz a n d S e v i l l e w e r e u o s u b d u c d ; t h e Q u e e n w a s r e v i le d ,

a u d t h e K in g ; d e n o u n c e d i n t h e p u b U c jo u ic a lH as

a t r ^ lo r t o t h e s t a t e ; i n sh o r t , t h e d e m o c r a ts

w e r e f a ith fu l ly fo l lo w in g t h e m a r ch o f t h e f r e n c h

r e v o lu t io n , a n d t h e l e a s t a p p r e h e n s iv e b e g a n t o

a n t ic ip a te a s im ila r c o n su m m a t io n o f t h e r o y a l

g ^ e l’s.T h a t a n n lv n r sa x y o f h e r b ir th , a d a y w h ic h , in

t h e p a lo c t ís o f k in g » , i s g e n e r a l ly u& hered In w ith

e v e r y d e m o n s tr a t io n o f p o p u la r j o y , w a s p i'oduc*

t iv e o f n o p le a s u r e i o t h e y o a t h f u l Q u o c p : u p o n

t h a t o c c a s io n n o g r a t u la t in g s o n g s w e r e p r e

s e n t e d t o h e r , a c c o r d in g t o th e fa s h io n o f th e

la n d , b u t th e f ie r c e T r a g a la , b r e a t h in g a d e a d ly

h a t e t o r o y a lty i n e v e r y l in e , w a s s u n g b y h o s t ile

ca . v .l THR QUfcFK. 1^9

voices »Imoat under th e p a W e windows ; she w « evuli'nMy m uch a larm ed a t tlie low ering aspcc t o f atiairs. and eould KUc.eXy t a t n m h e r tear* iii the p rcicoce o f the aMsembled C ourl,

] wa^ Mtruck hv th e a l t^ a t io n which h a d tak ea pU cc in h er a p p ia ra n c e ; b u t th ree wock» U fo ro ! h ad seen h er in th e g a rd en o f Uic E scu ria l feed ing eOTnc gold fieh in a U ttlc j>ond. and aftcTwAraB afeOcndiJDg a tow er an d coup ling the stepB w ith th e ligKt-LcaTted playfulnesa o f a ^ 1 . S he was ra th e r p re tty , an d very in te re s tin g ; extrem ely dcToat, an d m uch beloved by tho«e around h e r ; ta k e n from h er Saxon hom e, to which hbo w as passiopalely a ttached , th e d estined brlHc of the K in g o f Spaiu, in stead o f th e peaceful jKjmp an d universal hom age which sho h a d been le d to expect, in a U n d once renow ned fo r tbc loyally o f its citixens an d th e gallan try o f it« rif>bles, bhc found c n lic r arrival a t M adrid tbc slo rm s o f civil w ar darkcD iug around a ih rone, en dangered b y th e progressive usurpations o f th e C oites, an d exposed to tbe insu lts o f a d<^ m o ra liicd populace.

D n rin g those days o f revolutionary agitation , she ia stud to have s p fu t m any w eary liours, bew ailing tb e d ep arted p leasures o f h er G erm an )O uth, an d an tic ipating w ith a heavy h e a r t tbe te iro ra o f th e tim e to co m e; b u t h e r fifflictions, though g rea t, were brief, an d sh e is now, an d has

long been, in ih%i pcaa?ful w gio ji, "w h ere tho « idc<^ ccft»e from titrublÍTig, an d tb c w eary aro f ttrc s t- ' H a d th e life o f tb ia in te re s tin g Q ueen been prolonged, Spvin w ould p ro b ab ly bavo hoen fp a re d a h ost u f c&laTnilics.

S o c o m y vrait to th o EacuriaJ, how many change» have o ccu rred ! K in g Fenînand and lun youthful C onsort a re nu m o r e t h e B rother, who th en g raced th e court, ím now an exile, r tm g g lio g fo r hia th rone. T h e chivalrous Eroloa, tb e Vifu a n d eoal an d lead e r o f tlM B oyal causc, ia nni7)b<md w ith tk c dead . T h e h rav e O ’D onnel h as been b u lc h ^ c d in cold blood, an d Ids iMidy ho rrib ly nu itila tcd by th e unpun ished adhcrenia o f M in a an d th e p re sen t Q u e e n ; R iego, th en the ido l o f th e S p u iisL populace a t whose approach th e incessan t sliou t was r^ s e d , and m e t whose bû m p h an t m arch the choiceat flowers o f th e year w ere strew ed, h a s d ied upon a Spanish scaftbld. T h o E m pecinado, who sh a re d h is cnm e» o r glories.—which you will,—h as shared h is fa te ; T orrijoa h as m e t th e bloody dea th h e m re* lentlcesW a d m in is te red ; and M ina, a m urderer upon syutem, th o u g h s till alivu, m sink ing to tho gâve o p p rC f^d widi disease and infamy.

B u t to n iv narrative,— 1 rem ained a p risoner in m y ap artm en t a t the in n a t L u g o till tlireo o’clock in the afternoon, when 1 rccxnved an in tim ation Irom tho authorities, th a t tlu^y ijitendcd

to wad DIP to Santiigo , the c»pH»l of Crallieia, and c*xpocted m*? to commcnee my jooTWT to that city witbin an hour. Accorcij’gly, a t fonr o clock, six Eoyalwt Volunteer», conwgtin^ of four foot- «oldiors aad a sergeant and corpowil. mounted, arrived a t th« inn. A fter a « « m aad ineff<^ctufti p4per-vr.vr wiih the Aothorilies, I lum od my horsfi’8 head to Santiago, and left L ugo under the caoort o f th is tn iity band. Besides the in dignation natnrally excited ia my m ind by tbis c»tr*ordinary proc«<4inp. the pereoiâl inconrc- niiinee was extremely great, as 1 bad in tended to visit Orense. and, re-entering Portugal by tho noTth-eaBtern frontier* explore those p arts o f the J roio* M ontes which I had not yet S(H?n.

Sftntiago lay io a diro<tion precisely opposite to Orensp. and as I had already spent some days in thttt city, i t hod no t the recomTocndadoa o f norclty to m unterbalance the great aanoyance arising from this compulsory r ta n g « o f rente. T he soldiers were attired in the light-bluo nni- form which I te n distinguished th e adlierents of the Ci-ovm ; and white tassels, considered the un- tu lin g badge of a bianco, or white man, hung from Iheir caps. “ W e are called blancos. an epithet usod to deagnate children of pure faith and loyalty," said a* high-spirited young soldier, one of th e m ost ardent Boyalisls o f the band. Biver« men and mnlea followed in our

I 2

t ra in , a n d th o a CDtumbc’ro d , o u r p ro g re ss w as of D ecM sity ex trem o ly slow , a n d w as naorcover in- l e m i p t c J b y f re q u e n t o rd e rs fro m th e sergcfto t to h a lt. T w o so ld iers , w ho h a d « v id o n ü v rccoivod in ju n c tio n s to k e e p u p w ith m y Ii o t s p , v ^ a l k i ^

confc tm lly b y m y side . O a i ro u te la y ac ro ss a wUd h c a lli Irao t, th e n l ig h te d u p b y tlie la s t sp le n d o u rs o f a so tt in g sun .

W e aiTiTfid, a t a la t« h o u r , o u tb e confines o f a Biuall v illag e , a n d « to p p ed a t t h e d o o r o f a ru ico u * b u ild in g , fo rm erly b e lo n g in g to tb e g o v eru in cn t, b u t now u se d a s a r e s t in g place b y th e lew trav«!- le ra w ho w andered o v e r Ihoeo u a f re q u c n tc d wilds. W c w « 'c rece ived b y i ts on ly te n a n t , an o ld wom a n , w hom tb e su p e rs titio u s Icrro ri, o f a n ea rlie r a g e w ou ld liav c inTOsied w ith th e o h ara c tc r o f a sorcLTcss; fo r h e r a im s w ere b a re a u d w ith e red , h e r v isag e wrinl<lcd, a n d «Le wat, su rro im d e d b y an ftwiul a n d a p p ro p ria te n u m b e r o f c a ts ; a n d in d e e d sh e w as ac tu a lly r e g a rd e d w itii a fctrangc m ix tu re o f v e n o ra tio a a n d ab h o rren co b y th o n e ig h b o u rin g peasînts. T lic n ig h t w as d a rk au d b i t te r , b n t wc d isp e lle d th e d a rk n e ss a n d the c o ld b y h e a p in g a m p le su p p lies o f h e a th u p o n th o fire, w hich blam ed h ig h , a n d se n d in g a ÜiousÄnd co rru sca lio n s o v e r th e liugo ra lle rs , l i t u p th e g loom y rccesses o f th e o ld b u ild in g . T h e r e w ere henohcs, b u t n o t a sing le eh a ir o r ta b le in th e a p a i tm e n t ; cand les w c h a d nojie, fo r tb e “ L a d y

SorccTCit" declared, tU at slio rose a t the b reak o f day, and re l i ie d to re s t w hea ihc sun w eut down ; aod morcoTur expcctcd h e r guesta to ad o p t her primiUv-o habit«, fo r th is , she sa id , was vthat G od intended- “ Ov the Devil? ’ m u tte red oqo o f the soldu^rs, aware o f tJic impulalionH tlia t a tla rh e d to o u r an titjaa ted hostess, rro v is icn s wc a p peared fo r a lo n g tim e to have little p rospcct o f obtaining, h u t a t len g th , a fle r several foraging expedition», some b lack bro th , “m ^minivsf horret,"

b ro u g h t in a wooden bowl, garn ished witli b read o f th e earae T a r la w a u hue. T h e soldiers, w ith th e delicacy aud gt>od-fceliog erainenlly characteristic o f th e lower orders in Spain, offered uie all th e srau ty provmlon th ey could p ro c u re ; nor d id they ap jiear to desire th a t any p a r t Hbould l>c re:servcd fo r tlieuiêlvcs, a lthough th ey mxiet have g rea tly btood In n eed o f I'elVeshment, as they ha<l b eeo marchli’g from four till eleven o'clock a t n ig h t, over a rugged country. O f course I d iv id td equally o u r litth j btore, and i t was plea- sa n t to see th e graf«ful feeling excilodby thiw tr i fling inack o f conbideration. B u i tJie caudidatca for a sbivre o f th e supply were T ery diKpropor- tioncd to th e am o u n t in p o sse s io n , so th a t the prooeufi o f d istribu tion beearae ludicrous, au d only furn ished a pvaciieal proof o f the kuijnite divisibility o f m atter.

T h o u g h m ost in d ig n an t w ith th e p o te n ta te s o f

L u ^ , ! couM n o i e n tc ìta in any hostìl« feeling a g a io a tin y IravcJIipj» coinpamoiìs, wlio were free

from any partic ipa tion in th e foolish ac ts o f tlteir fUperKprs, an d «ero m erelv ih c ir unw ìllin» instra- roentfl. T hey e \id e n t)y belieTc*d th a t I was ^ i l t - les» o f an y «crioui offence; b u t in sp ite o f thi* g<m e»l im pression, I perccivcd th a r Urong,

th o u g h sh o rt- lir fd suspicions. occasionally passed th ro u g h theii- m inds. W hile tbcse f e e l in g p revailed, though s till tesp ertfu l in m anner, their countenancofl «eai? serious an d e v m cloaded, >uid Ihey sorm ed absorbed in tliough t ; fo r these men w rre sincorcly attachod U) the R oyal t-ause, and w ould have lookod with h o rro r upon an y agecrt o f tb e Confilitutionalists.

'IT irobghout the jo u rn ey th ry tr ie d to Boften a ll th a t w as d isag rrcaU e in th e jMJculiar s ta le of o u r m u tu a l relation*, an d invariab ly tre a te d mo w ith re*|>oft. H a d th w r condurt l>eea diff<*rent m y situation wonld baTr been in to ln a h le ; for, hav ing r(Hvi?cd positive in juM tioos nevor to lose sigh t o f mo. 1 w as no t occastunally, b u t eoruitantly in their society. I t is true , th ey placL*d th e loa«t possib le re s tra in t upon m y actions, and were e re r read y to sarrifi«) tb e ir inclination to m ine ; still th ey were scnipulouidy exact in th e csecu lion o f th e ir orders. I f 1 w ished to inspect an y objects o f curiosity n e a r tb e plaijes w here we h a lted , they were always w illing to accompany roc, however

fa tigued th ey m ig h t b c i w bcu I re tire d to » y apartm ent, i f th e tubdiV ttions o f th e m iserable hoTele, a t w Hch we stopped, d e se ire th e nw ne, I wa» regu larly a ttead o d by a g u a rd ; indeed, on horseback o r oB foot, aeleep o r awako, a w atehM eye wa» over fixed upon m e. N o m an, who h as no t been tlte object o f such un rem ittin g vigdanc© for iom c days toge ther, can 9X a ll coQ«ciw th o nertoua sense o f m oral opprew ion which i t a t lengUi induces, i t depresseb th e spiriU to a s ex ten t u o t justified b y th e cause, i t w eighs liltó a n igb t-m are on the uüud an d to rtu res it» as water does th o hum an íram e, w hen drop falls afU r drop upon the sam e ¡»art, p roducing irrita tio n solely by its continuous acti<m. W h en a t le n g th released from th is vexatious th raldom , I can liard ly exp ress tlie p leasu re o f find ing myselt' resto red to th o enjoym ent o f m y solitary cbamliCT-

B u t I am digi'essing.— T h e »oldicrs a u d m ul9 ' te e rs were ran g ed on th e benches in o u r ruinous abode, a n d 1 h a d rm ide a «eat o f h ea th e r for m yse lf w ilhin th e fireplace u n d er th e hu g e chimney. M a n u ü i m y P o rtu g acse m uleteer, was becom ing reconciled to th e loss o f h is buppcr, b y tJie opportu n ity i t afforded him o f exu lting in th e superio r comforts o f h is own co u n try ; an d he loudly declared, th a t h e h ad ncTer Bcen a la n d so u tte rly degraded as G ailicia. o r so eridon tly b ran d ed w ith th e D ivine displeasure. I began to fca i, i s f

nfttional antipatlkies would lig lit u p th o lorcli o f d iscord am ong our Spanish alUes; b u t although b is liiog;iiage w as strong , ho won p robab ly asvaiê o f th e len g th s to w hitb lie could snfclv proceed, a s I obseyved llia t h e averted , m o te tlian onoo, ib e ir riBtng indignation , b y a w ell-tim ed an d hum orous sally. M y friend, who h a d dcclarod lum* se lf a bianco, was a h igh -sp irited y o ung soldier, eag er i a liis m anner, and unm easu red m hit» exp ressions; b u t th e C orpora l possessed th e m ost Tarie<^ hum our o f th o p a rty . H e was an ftcluiir»blo mimic, ao d am used u« by a series o f lively ohsfrr* vatioTis, au d practical jokes. S o iling one o f our land lady 's cats, h e convulsed the circle, b y m aking poor p u ss respond to hig questions by a \yhine th a t was o ioum ful in its tone, o r eager, o t indiffere n t, according to tb e na tu re o f liis in te rro g a to ry ; a feat which h e contrived by prcBaing the sido of the anim al unptTooiTed, upon which i t na tu ra lly t i le d out, an d tlie peculiar In tonation o f th a t cry varied according to th e suddenness an d d(5gree o f the p ressu re apphed . T b c trip)c w as c lev e ily m an ag ed : i t was n o t cruel, as th e tre a tu ro d id n o t appear to suffer,and th e efl'ect was inconceivably ludicrous, ^ e t b en ea th th is wild buftw uerv , a m ine o f deep p ie ty a c d ecibusiaMtic fee ling lay concealed ; a diflpositlon less flppaien t in hia converbatioQ tlian in th e fe rv o u r o f Id s m anner, an d the pro&lration o f sp irit w ith wliich h e approai;bed any holy relicH.

In passing th ro u g h tLo oonvcot o f f ta a M artin , ho spoke ra lh c r in «ad an d scriou#, th a n in b itte r language, o f th e C odstitutionalibls who h a d viola ted th e sbrinc. T h e S ergeant, and leader of th e troop, a nftlivc o f C astile , was im bued with all tb e g rav ity o f h is e o u u try ; h e was cold and cautious, an d sa id iittle ; b u t although h e appeared to observe aniuulely all lh a t tuok pU ce, i t x%as no t easy to discover, u i th e h a rd lines o f hi* ijoniove- able countenaucc, citL er tJic general charaf’te r oi tb e naan, o r tl»e im|ire»sion p roduced on h is m iod by passin g occurrences.

Aa ibe n ig h t w ore on, tlw p a rty closed round the roaring lire, an d th e converbatioii becAme general. B and itti, a aubjcct o f un fa iling in te re s t am ong th e low er classes in Spain, were first dis- cusBcd- T h e y dw elt \>\yon the p la ided ( 'a ta la n who, couched b eh in d flomo ju t t in g rock, springs like a tig e r ou tb e though tless traveller, b id s him, g ive u p h is gold, an d never b id s h im twice! N o r d id th ey fo rget th e A ndalusian ban d it, m ounted on th e steed b e calls b y some h ig h »oundm g nam e an d love.s w ith tlie love tb a t otber m en îeld only to the ladicR o f th e ir hearts i an outlaw ed race, U»e genu ine hell's o f old rom ance, whose courteous b ea rin g s till lends refinem ent to th e ir g ^ d ty tra d e , an d itivestd tho ir lawless acts w ith th e ehvvalry o f tim es lo n g p a s t M any a ta le o f those robber chiefe w as told,

I 3

m aoy a feat wom recorricfi o f tl ie B o ld Jftrocs o f Vftlcctia, an ex traord inary m an, th e mi ogled te rro r and adm iration o f Lis n a iive d istric t, wLct I p a u e d tlirougL i t in 18*2*2.

T b c »oldiers now re la te d Ms exploit« w ith a k in d o f gloomy pride, tliey d e ta iled Lis ta ir - brcodtL, n x t d according; to tlie ir account, inirocu- lou« escape*,w ith m anifest satisfaction ; an d contra s te d Ids dee«!« o f ho rrib le cruelty to th e great, w ith h is unbounded generosity to th e poor- In those sta tem en ts there was roach t ru th mj»cd u p w ith m uch ro m an ce : w hen I w as i» \a le n tif t , th is pow erful ad venturer p a id th e taxes o f a t leas t five villages, o r sm all towDS, ly ing within th e lim its o f th e m ountain ferritu ry , over which for year» to g e th e r h e Iw ld an alm ost undii»puted sw ay; th e lo o il aAithorities feveH an d fea^>ted him , an d tbc poor loved an d eheyed h im a s their lawful lord . H ut the S pan iards were n o t allowed to en ô sB th e conversa tion ; our P o rtuguese friends bcpam e jea lous o f th e exclusive a tten tion excited h y these Spanish ta les, an d as th ey could n o t m atch th e fam ons Jam es w ith any native b an d it o f e<pial p ro w ss , th ey touched a deeper chord, an d engaged th e sym pathy o f th e ir bearers by ta le s o f w ild and fearful superbtition.

T hey F p o k e o f t h c d is ta n t B eira , an d shuddered as they nam ed th e Escolarc«, the dreadfu l wolf- impcUcrs, th e lonely w anderers o f th e m ountain.

tíie 6CTv'ftntf o f th e P rin cc o f d a rk n c « ! A ssum in g m orw l siirtftc, an d scAted on wsnc lofty pino icle , tbcy bail, w itb fiondish joy, thfl smow- fitorm g a íherípg a t th e ir fcet, th ey «oe i l w bitcn all th e laTid and know th e ir hour o f » tre rg th u com e! Sutêct to thciu , b u t tp m b lc to «Ü beúdc, the wolves asseaiblc a t th e ir viewless bidding, and o b c r th o sig n t l ia t sends tbetn headloDg oq tb e ir despera te course. W o e to the liap lew p«3Sk-

sant who hfts waked th e vengcanoo o f th e Escolar, for lo ! th e boll com m issioned woU eoincs dowu upon hi* fold. H is tru s ty dog , t h a t never sh rank from m ortal encounter, copes n o t with such \m bal- lowed e tre tig tb , an d quails b e n c a lh tlio «nper- n a tu ra l eye I I n vain h is m aste r p o in ts th e un* erring r i tU ; the bu lle t will no t s trike , or bounds innocuooR from the charm ed akin. F lig h t is the «liepherd’s only refuge, dcatruction waits upon hi« flock, an d dosolalion s its upon bi» h o ^ h I

B u t even in deeds lik e these, Burpa«í»ing hu* m an power, th e S pan iard would n o t yieid the palm o f m erit to th e rival Po rtuguese , fo r s tra ig h t an A ndalusiao . jealous Ibr h is country’s honour, to ld how the robber-ch ildren o f Kcija, in w eal o r woe, conquering o r cooquered, stiU re ta in e d b y m agic spells th e ir fa ted uum bcr of th irteen . C o n q u ered !— when w ere thoso ch ildren o f tbe fo rest conqncrcd? for victory over them waa not 8UCCCSS, defea t wa* n o t to them reverse o f lo rtuue.

T h e y Jiorried to th o m id n ig h t encounter, th irteen rti num ber, stou t m en and ítup, a s over w itH ed robber's b la d o ; h a lf d ie d th e dea th o f m en, ycl, counted w hen the fray was over, th e b an d wäs found in undim inishcd s tren g th , an d Ü úrteen marily voiocs ang>?ered to tb c ir cbieilain 's ta ll! W Jia t th en to them was trium ph , o r i-cpulso, or governm ent, o r law ? S tro n g in th e g u ard ian - *iiip o f power* unseeo , th ey m ocked a t m ortal m ig h t!

A m ongst o u r p a rty all h ad h o ard of, Ponc had belield. the infernal w artiora o f th o w ood; bu t som e h o d scon Üic invulnerable T ra p p is t * rush ing to w ar m ounted upon h is coal-black s te e d ; h igh beario g in one Land the sacred crucifix, and w itli th e o ther slay ing a t ovcry strolce a reb e l to the C hurch an d Crown, wliile heavenly troops unseen averted every d an g er from Lis head , and ITea^ on its e lf d irec ted every blow h e struck . T ljcy too h a d fe lt th e e a rth qualte lilce an aspon-leaf beneath the iron tre a d o f th a t unequalled s te e d ; whose charge o o son o f m an h a d ever ye t w ithstood ; who«e flig h t was sw ifter th a n th e swiftest a rro w ; whose step n e ’e r fau lte ied down the s teep est p rec ip ice ; whose eye sen t fortli a t n igh t u n n a tu ra l beamg, to gu ide h is m aster th ro u g h the d eep est gloocn, y e t lu re h is rash pu rsu ers to their

* A üueTÍIl4 )caJ< r, K ficw ncd fvr h u « s tn o r ^ n e r y e E jJ o i t t ia t h e g r « s ( D v r th tT R i i .» n r f « c t r t i a o f 1 6 2 ^ .

fute! IIuD gor an d th irs t were to th a t famou» horse vnknyw n; sleep never sealed hia watchful lid s ; and o f t the sullen dtaÜi->*oat ol' lu s hoofs, disUpctly b ea rd for tw enty m iles around, paU icd the bobtile sentinel ui>on Jim m idn igh t wntch, for sure lie was those du ll d ead echóos were tbo certa in harb in g ers o f ru in to th e caiop, and well he know, th e first o f t l ia t p redestined host, who bears the strange unearth ly sound, »urvives no t tb c ap- p ro a r tín g fight. I t is difficult to describe ibe t'fiect p roduced b y these w ild tale», n a rra ted at tho d ead o f n ijrh t in a ru in e d b u ild ing , by tbe doub tfu l f leam s o f » flickering fire, an d addressed witb a ll th e energy o f perfect fa itb to an audience as im plicitly credulous.

A s tb e rea l b isto ry o f the feuious Jam es, o r Ja im e, i» a curious illustra tion o f th e s ta te of Bocicty an d m anners p re ra le n t in one o f tbe w ddest an d oiont rem oto d istric ts o f Spain, 1 will ag a in fo r a m om ent d igress, to inform m y ro ad trs o f the singu lar k in d o f governm ent w liirh h e estab lished , an d fm‘ a lo n g tin»e m aintained, io the d is tric t subject to h is au thorit)'. ben 1 w ai in Ja im e’s te rrito ry , poor J a im e w at, fo r the nionieiit, in a Bituation o f g rea t ditficulty and distress. H e hiid ju e t declared for th e R oyal causc, an d tlie governm ent of tb c Corteb h a d in conscquence d ispatched a considerable force again st bim , h ad driveu him in to a m ounta in , au d hem m ed liim in

b y a co rdon o f troop«. TTic d e e p « « a n n c t j ppe- r a i ie d in th e vÍHa«;os w hich p iiic tickJlv aokuov- lo d g e d h is «upretoftcy, a o d w liich fo r m an y J ^ a n h a d coD ?idercd th o ir a llpg ia iice to tl ie K in(^ o f S p a in a s seco o d ary to th&t w h ich w s m o«ÍD g to E i c g J a im è .

I n o n e re sp e c t, h o w o rer, h e s to o d in a v e ry dif* f e re n t p o s itio n fro m t h a t in w hich m onarche w e i;encrftlly p la e c d w ith re fe rf^ o c to th e i r eubjectv. I l o p a id th o ir ta x e s ib r th e m , a n d th e y re p a id h im by sc erc t eo*operation , a n a r ra n g e m e n t w hich b y n o m e a n t d im in iah cd t l ie ir zeaJ in h is c&use. O n a rr iv in g a t a P o e a d a in one o f th e se T i l l a o s , I a&krd a y o u n g la d , w ho a c te d a s w aiter, w h e th e r J a im è wan a l to g e th e r a s b a d a s h e w as r e p re s e n te d to h e , “ S e ñ o r , ' sa id t h e bo y , su d d e n ly tu rn in g ro u n d w ith th e g r e a te s t c& citeraent ; " J a im e w a m a n o f spo tious f iiith a n d h o n o u r,” “ N a y , J o s e / ’ sa id h is F a th e r , a ca u tio n s m a n , a n d n a tu ra lly a la r io e d le « i h is son'» u n g u a rd e d se a l sh o u ld h a v e b e tra y e d h is re a l p repoM cssions to a a « a e m y , “ Y o u »peak w arm ly , a s you a r e w ont io d o o n siih^ccts w holly in tb ffc ren t to yon. T h e S eñ o r observes ju s tly , th a t J a im è i s n o t so bad a s h o is sa id to bo.'*

W e w ere th e n in Ih c m o n th o f M ay , a n d th e n i^ h t b a d a l l t h a t h eav en ly ca lm n e ss w h ich i s so b ew itch in g in a so u tlie rn clim e. A s I la y aw ake, th e so u n d o f m u sk e try , p ro d u co d b y s h o ts occa-

8Íona)ly cxcliaogcd W iw eeti the pATtieana o f Jaiij)«! an d Chc G overnm cnt troop», m ingled, rtrangcly enough, w i l t a sorenftde o f poculiar ff^cetoeiig, w hich roso u n d « r th e nicdow » o f some fei r S pan iard \xt th o sam e stree t. A t O iihuela I saw a p layer on th e gu itar, an d 8]X)ke to him ab o u t Ja im e . Hf* a t firs t showed g^'eaf unwilling* Dees to eotec upon tk e su b jec t; b u t cit len^^th dism issing h is fears, gave way to h is feolínge» and epoka o f h is robber-cldel w ith th o sam e enthusi* a stic foclloga w hich a H ig h lan d p iper m ig h t be supposed to feel fo r th e h e a d o f hia c lftn : for

thongh w ild and lawless in h ie hab its , was fond o f m inetrelsy an d generons to the bard , l i e h ad aJso ballads reeouo ting Ja im e’s heroie deeds, th a t a t th o m om ent in question i t w ould have been dea th to rocitc, which g o ld could no t e x to rt, b u t whicli m ig h t have been won from tho easy m icstf ol by eirpressiiHis o f sym pathy fo r his e E i d a n g e r e d chief.

Ja im e o srap ed th e p e rils w hich th e n environed him, an d nourished fo r som e tim e longer, the p ride an d te rro r o f the d is l i ic t ; b u t w as finally tak en an d executed a fte r a p rosperous re igo o f nearly tvrenty years. H e appears to have been a v ery m ixed character, possesaio^ in a g rea t m easure th e v irtues a n d vices o f a cldeftaln o f the m iddle ages. H e wa» lib e ra l to h is followers, an d cruel t<> h is ececoies : b u t even tow ards them ,

lie showctl upon oecasioos & ma^gciinrrttity worthy o f tbe heroic age. l i e haH a peculiar p rid e in proUicting th a t portion o f th e population ulxicli adhered cnthiisiostieftUy to liis cause ; h e ftould onrleh witli Ills Bpoib tlie m ost devoted o f Lis eu h jec ts ; and i t wiis said, tb a t in some instances, w here an a ttached eouplp, bclfm ging to ikniilies fttenilfy to h is parti i>ans, h ad been pi*evented from m arry in g by the w»dI o f a certa in sum o f money, h e » o u ld rem ove tb a t diHicuity. bestow o d the fa ir dam^fel a sufficient dowry, an d suildenly ap p ea lin g in b is ro b b er’s d ress on tbo evening of th o m arriage festival, w ould aesiflt in th e dance, lead down the b lush iog b rid e , im p rin t npon her check a sa lu ta tion wliicb, u n d er th o circumbtances o f tbo casOi conjugal jealoucy m ig h t well forgive, th en resif^n h e r to tlie bride"rooiii, au d disappear am id th e lo u d applause o f tlio de ligh ted ^leasant».

T h ese dazzling acts, partly tb o sallies o f a n a tu ra lly generous, though ill-regulated niind, were perhaps, in a still g rea te r degree , th e re su lt o f calculating policy. By occasional acts o f th is k in d , an d by pornianently , th o u g h no t OKtensilily, ch a rg in g h im self w itli the taxation o f tlie neighbourhood, lie estahlii^hed h im self in the aOcctions o f tb e people, an d becam e invested with a real pow er an d security , wluch no m ere supfiriorily o f h is m araud ing force, e ith e r in num bers or disci- pbne, could have long ensured. W hen danger

drew nea r, b e b a d Uic caxUest in tim ation o f its ap p ros^b ; an d wbcD i t a t Ic rg ib eiiVclo£)cd liim in its lo ) \» , no m eans w ere le i l u n tr ie d \> y bis fflitliful subjects to faHHtate b is escape. H e was several tim es bcm m ed in by tb o Govem knent iioops, who, d espa iring to sccuto th e ir p rey by any o lber m eans, form ed, iw th ey im agined, an viniutcrrujrtedcirHc around tlic p la te o f h is rc lrca t, aod de te rm ined to foropel b im to surreodpr by th e hIow , b u t sure, cirof ts o f hxnm v. B u t even in these p eh h m s circum stanccs b e was always won- deifu lly aw itttcd b y th e aifection o f h is adherents, till a t Icngtli, aTailin^ bimsekf o f som e loeal and m om entary negligence o f tb e b lockading troops, b e broke tb ro u g h tJie line , an d to tb e ra g e and surprise o f tbe w W iers Rave signs o f u n ab a ted ac- tiv ity . by a sudden dcscect a t tb o Ke;id o f bi» men in an o th er p a r t o f tb e d is tr ic t; soiaing. perhaps, som e obnoxious an d am azed A lcalde, ra rr} u ig h im off to th e m ountains, an d only re stu rin g biui to lib erty upon tlie rcooipt o f an enorm ous ransom.

T h ese frecjuerit escapes, v^hen aU hojws o f eiud- in g tb e p u rsu it o f th e troops scomod desperate , an d his alm ost sim iiltaneous appearance in a d ista n t p a rt o f tlie d istrict, gave rise a t lon g tb to a belief tlia t n o m ateria l ob&taclos could im pede liis profrrcss, an d th a t he w as g ifted w ith a double presence o f an inexplicable an d fcarfiil character; any poor A lcalde who, in tin iida tcd o r bough t

over by tlie G overnm ent troop», bad sw erved from h is a lbg iancc , was Tiot r r a u u rc d b y cii'cuinsuneoa th a t would bavo ^ iven couGdeoce io a B traogor; b u t as th e aceountB o f Ja im e 's s itu a tio n became m ore hopeloss. h o , in proportion , h e felt an in- crcablti^ fear t l ia t th e dcx>r o f hi» dw elling Tni^ht b e suddenly forced, an d the ub iquitoue C hief appoor a t the h ead o f hlu arm ed men.

J )u r in ^ th e strugg le against th e C ories, in favour o f th e K ing , ke som etiincs, when severely pressed by the G overnm ent troops, en tire ly ¿i#- solved h is band , advised each m an to take a Rcpa- i« ie p a th , an d corrunanded all io m eet ag a in on a fftaled dHv an d hour, an d a t a s ta ted placc. T he appo in tm ent wa« generally wcU observed; and th a t G uerilla force, whkdx a few day» before was alm ost crushed by th e advancing iroojjs o f the G overnm ent, were now j»erhaps hovciing on th e ir rear, c u ttin g off ihrnr supplii^n. an d th in n in g th e ir n u m b « « b y a constan t w ar o f detail.

TJiia marau<ling C h ie f was as rem arkable for the reason ing v igour o f h is m ind, as fo r hia p ersonal courage an d dexterity . H o was aware, even in th e early dajâ o f h is career, i}iat to e w u re h is pow er h e m u si tem per hia p u rsu it o f p lu n d er w ith a forbearance seldom oxertised h y men o f hi» pro fession ; h e fe lt th a t a system o f im m oderate rap ine would e ither d ivert th e passage o f tJ:ic »outhern an d eastern provinces o f S pain from

h » diatriet, in to o ther channels o f com m unkttion , eo as en tire ly to elude h is g rasp , o r w u ld , from th e ex ten t o f th « evil, p roduce a determ ination on th e p a r t o f th e G overatoeD t to s u p p re s h is pow er a t a«iy cost.

U n d e r th is tiopreM ion, w hile on t h e one h an d h e aedolou«ly coarl<il th e good*will o f hia neigh* bourliood, on tb e otlier, h e seldom ro h h ed tbe tra d e r to an y g rea t e x te n t ; h u t ra th e r levied a I r ih u lc upon b is goods, which, considerin|c th o lawlessoesH o f the »t*t. d id no t b eer a. v e ry u n rea sonable proportion to th e whole. A« som e compensation fo r th is a tta ck upon h is purse, the trave lle r h a d n o reiuton to foar an y fu rth e r molesta tio n from tb e gentlomcTi o f th e bigiiway, no t only in Ja im e’s te rrito ry , b u t fo r some dlatdnce heyond the lim its o f h is recogn isid domain. H e c o i i T c r s e d freely an d good-h\iTuouredly w ith the p lu n d ered m erchant» d u rin g the exam ination o f tlie ir good» by h is partisan», offered them cigars to sm oke, an d wine frc«n h is em broidered ^ o a t’s- skin to d r in k ; an d although th e tr ib u te o r blackm ail was very m uch levied h y ru le an d proportion, h e courteously a tten d ed to any particu lar wish e x p rc ^ e d , an d affected a generous contem pt fo r p e tty profits.

B y tlilH jndiciou» se lf-ie rtra in t, an d by h is local popu larity , w hich h e k e p t ftlire h y p an d erin g to OYery io le resled and to ©vety gra tefu l feeling.

h e iDaintàined b is tbrc»oe fo r so lo o g a tuiic. I I# wa» a m an o f cxti*aordijiflry rcsourcê, designed by n a tu re to ac t a b e tte r p a r t ; \in d c r o ther circuni. siaace* ho m ig h t h a te been tb e saTioup, instead o f th e sceurgc, o l'liis c o u n try ; ho was, however, in personal addresR an d m eu ta l c n c i ^ , ^ m ag nificent spccim cn o flb o i-o b b e r C h ief; ye t there w err soioe d readfu l pasNages in iiis h istory . A Jinn observer o f h is word once p ltgh led , lie p ; - n ish cd treacliery w ith a ferocity su ited only to a savage s ta te o f socie ty ; ao d is Naid, o n one oc* cattion, to have bu ried alive th e u n fo ituna te vie* lim s o f ilia auspieiou.

H u t to resum o m y n a rra tiv e— T h e n ig h t was far advanced wliun a loud knocliing w at h ea rd a t fh c door; two servan ts bein^j aJinittt?d, announced th o approach o f tlie ir luistress, tl ic m ost infln- e n tia l person in tile im m ediate neighbourhood. D ii-etlly afterw ards sho appeared , followed hy a tra in o f dom estics, an d evitlently decorated to th e u tm ost advantage. H e r <^rci« was extrem ely an tiq u a ted , b u t h ad l>ecn gorgeous in davs o f y o re ; i t was, 1 have li ttic douh l, an heir loom in Ihe fajoily, an d h ad probably been worn by herself, an d b y h e r m a lc rn a l w tccstors for somo generations past, on every solem n occasion. T h e •joldters received h e r witli every dcrnonstration o f form al respect. T h e sta te ly dam e began by say ing , she had only ju s t been infm*mt;d th a t a

pftrty of troop* en g ag ed in th e R oyal servico were quarterc<i in a m iserable building; n ear h e r honsp. She expressed h e r hojxjs, th a t no circnmstanc&s d ia p le a s io ^ te tia Mai<**ty'a governm ent had gi\*en rise lo Buoh an unusual occurrence; sh e trn s te d , h er dcTout asp irations on th is head would \*e confirmed, b u t a t all events esteem ed i t the bounden duty o f a loyal sub jec t to co n g ra tu la te tlie troops on th e ir safe arrival, an d to assure th e individual en lrnsted w ith th e com m and, th a t th e loyalty which h ad ever distinguL^heii Ler family h ad suf* f e r e d n o <í»miJiuüon in th e person o f tlie ir actual representative. S he concluded b y declaring th a t her houBe, b e t grounds, an d a ll h er goods were a t th e en tire d isposal o f th e KÍU(?'m troops, as Jong aa th ey remiwned in th e neighbourhood, T b c Sergean t answ ered in a stra ij; as form al an d poliie, an d in lan g u ag e fa r above id s s ta tio n : h e th an k ed h e r fo r th e AÍfrclion vrhieh she b o te the R oyal cause, and for tlxi» m a rk u f a tten tion to his M ajesty 's scrran l* . H e spoke in gialUViiig term s o f tb e proverbial loyalty o f h e r bouse, ao d wished th a t h is M ajesty possessed m ore supporlera, true- h ea rted a* lierself, in these degenerate times, when, in too m any instances, the son Lad fallen away from his fa th e r s fa ilh . l i e touehod lightly , and w ith address, upon the object o f the expedition, and concl udod by deel in ing h e r offer o f accomm odation, as th e n ig h t watt fa r sp en t, and his

troops wore obliged Co le n n v th e ir m arch a t b reak o f day. A profijsion o f p a r tin g com plim cnt« were th e n oxcb&ng;cd, which, tim e an d place co u s id e ie ^ w ere ra th e r eu terta linng . T h e door w as them opened

^ Wia« aocT * I f l t b e Q w e > a c < l Iw r it& io go

T w o menisda w en t fc ith in adyancc to c lear the >»ay, an d afUji them p aced fo rth th e pom pous d a m o ; th e n d l h e r attCDdant« followml; b u t ii m\ifit bo ('onfcssod, th e ir rag g ed a ttire sspoke ill fo r th e IbrtuncA o f th e loâl an d illnstrions line. S he was, do doub t, a «‘o rth y souU th o u g h not to m e " h er Up« im perial e re r s p a k e i n d e e d , she scarcely deigned to look o n a suspected traitor. A ile r h er dep artu re \ve re tire d to r e s t ; i alept upon som e h e a th in a shed th a t opened in to tho h a l l ; the soldiers collected a ro u n d the only po in t o f egress, to p rev en t tb e possibiUty o f m y escape sca ttered some «traw on th e floor, and p lacing th e ir anna beside tbem , lay down to enjoy a few hours o f un in te rru p ted re|>ose.

I 'h e following m orn ing wfts in tensely e o ld ; wc q u itted the old b u ild ing soon a fte r sunrise, and tra re lle d for some houra over a eountry g;enoral!y w ild and barren , b u t v aried b y occasiunid patehes o f cu itira tjon . In th e m iddle o f th e d ay we halted a t a smaU village, w here some cold fish and had wine were b ro u g h t m e h y an o ld wuman> wboM

face was furrow ed w ith wrinkle», b u t Miimatcd by un cxpresfcinn o f the m ost a f tire boncvolencc, and b y eyes o f the l ig h te s t b lue. She wlu&pcred in m y oar, u n p e rc c iv ^ b y th e soldier*, " M y Son, t i e E n j f is a* good as lie ia g rea t, b u t m any op- prcM ioiu arc a jm io itted i a b is nam e,” T lie extrem e Hcnaaticsn produo^d by our a rriv a l a t cviiry Tillego o r town th ro n g k which we pas»ed, was tbem oal di»affrctablo circmnstaTicc.resulting from my peculiar position. U p o n those occiuaon» the houses were deserlod by tlie ir ium ale», who flocked around o u r m ules, eag er to see u s , and to aj^cer- u in tho m otives o f o u r journey . T h e resentm ent o f a m ob is u n p le a sa n t; th e ir com iniseratioc is still less supportab le . T h e people were always, a t first, inclined lo espouse m y causc, an d some* tim es expressed th e ir disapprol>ation o f m y arrest in audible m u rm u rs; b u t i t was cimOMS to ol> serve th e ir instan taneous revulsion o f feeling, when acquain ted w ith th e general n a to re o f the charges p refe rred agsunst me. T h a t word npffra, th a t single, fa ta l, dam ning word, suDiccd to convert the gen era l »ym pathy in to abhorrencc, and as i t c rep t from m outh to m outh, th e peasant* sb raok from a ll ijilercourse w ith a m an w eighed down by su rh a heavy accusation. In tlie g rea t towns, a ne<fto sim ply mean» a CoiietirutionalUt, b u t am ong tb e unin*trueted peasao try o f these socludod d is tr itts . i t is understood in ils lite ra l

ticnse, an d a d&rlc an d m ysterious sìgnilication ìs a i l^ U e d to t l ie w ord. I l c r c too i t is cpplied to th e CoostitutioTi'.iItsts, b u t is also associated in th e popu lar m ind w ith undefined idvss o f an infernal trailic, o f sccrc t club» o f F reem asons ho ld ing an aecurucd io lercourse n i lh th e g rea t A u th o r o f evil an d e n te r in g w ith him in to poaitÌTs com patta against (he H o ly C h u rd i, an d ug;ainsc th o K ing , (Jod’s de lega te upon earth . Such an im ()utation c re ito s a degree o f horror am oug tho sim ple Cialliciana, which c a n s c a r c e l y b e c o n c c i T o d

in th e en lig h ten ed s ta te o f B rilish society, and can o n lj b e com pared to th e harrow ing sensation form erly excited i n o u r own coun try by a e h a ^ c o f sorcery. I t severs a t o n c t th o firm est friendships, an d cancels the n earest lies. U nder the influence o f th is gloomy belief, th e young bride h a s denounced tiie h usband o f h e r love, the child hfws fled £roni th e p o llu ted co u th of h is guilty , b u t tx p irm g , s ire ; an d ih e paren t Itas driven from h is p ro tc it in g roo f th e son who knew no t whore to screen h is h ead from th e furv o f tlie elem ents and th e m ore p itiless p u rsu it o f m an. A s any ac* cordance with the views o f the C onstitu tionalists, an y in(eicourse carrie<i on w ith them , o r any as* sislance rendered fo an ind iv idual o f th a t parly , is an unfailing sign o f a negro, th is superstition is n a tu ra lly encouraged by the priesthood o f these lonely d is tric ts ; in d eed it becom es uu d er tlie ir à u

r e d i o n a m o s t f o r m H a W o c m g i n e ; i t c o n f e r s u p o n

t h e m fl k i n d o f c i i u n s e i c n c c , b y m a k i n g t K c m a c -

t ^ g n i n t c d w i t h t K e m o s t s e c r c t u T Y d e r t d k i n g a o f

t h e i r p o H tx c u l r n e m i C B , a n d i n v e s t s t h c n i w i t h a

s p e c i e s o f o m n i p o t e n c e , h y t h e p o w e r w i t h w h i c h

i t a r m s t h e m o f e n l i s t i n g e v e r y m o r a l a c d r c H -

g io T is f e e l i n g f t g a i n u t t h e i r o p p o o c D t s .

1 sa id th a t th o people were, a t first, dihposcd to espouse m y caiiac, a eircum stancc th a t sur- p riaed me, as any exprebsion o f p u b lic reeling is unusual in countries sub jected to a despotic go* vem m cnt, p a rlieu la rly in th e presence o f troops. B u t th e people, esp«eiftUy in th e rem ote p a r ts o f Spain, have been always k e p t in sxU>jeeticm ra lh c r hy th e forcc o f hab it, a n d b y th e ir re g a rd for ancient usages, th a o b y th e operation o f any T egular police. T h e ir obedience h as boon tlio re su lt o f a tta c h m e n t; th e Chui'ch re ta in e d its as* cendency, because i t « as rc n e ra lc d an d beloved by th e people ; th e K in g was enab led to pivservo en tire th e despotic fonns o f tlie old luonftrfhy, bccauso, lunv-cver defective in theory , th e y v»ero stiU ill unison w ith the national feeling. F o r the sam e roasou, th e old governm eut m ain tained its author! fv oTer th e whole kingdom , while th e dc* eroes o f th e actufd adm iuiatm tion are dfsputod w ithin th ir ty m iles e f th e c a p ita l l l i e conspi- r a te r against the o ld o rd er o f iL ings could rarely Oflcape fvoui th e in te rio r o f tlie country . (Iioogh

h e IravoUcd b y n jg h l, an d h id h im w lf in chv<t m by day. O n tiie coD irar), th e b iind ii an d {ho w m iggler no t un ireq u co tly m ix frcuU in society, a» d roam uodistuvbed over th e secae o f thcif m U »giis, because th ey are, cooiparativcly, bu t little obaoxioutt to tlie public feeling.

T b e chftracier o f th e old I'Vench police waa dowsrvedly h igh , an d w ith rc fe ren cr to th e detection o l ordiiuify orline«, no tom parw on could 1« fairly iw ti tu le d betw een th e police o f tb e two kiagdom * ; a t th e g a m e tim e, I believe, ih a l undcx th e o ld ijfitcm . a t le a s t ia th e piovincea, (lia Spani&li police would have d e tec ted a conspirator agaicwt th o Cfoxtd w ith g re a te r certa in ty . They worked by meaiia» perliap» un*uited to th o di«- covory o f eomoaon olfencns, b u t peculiarly favoui * able to tho d etec tioo o f crim es o f a treasonable nature . O q these occasions a a alm ost omnibcleot prie»(boo<l supp lied them w ith th e m ost accurate m fonm ition. an d every peaaant, from loval and roUgious m otives, hccauie a policeman in the K in g s l'unse. B u t they fonnd i t im possihie lo excitc a sim ilar fee ling again»t ofl'eace« wbich were n o t pecu liarly ab h o ireo t to tlie popu lar m ind ; and , where the a a r e e fceliai? d id n o t e i is t . o f cour«> llie sacae zealous co op rra tion oould n o t b e secured. T h e Spanish police was theie- fore compelled, in th e p u rsu it o f o rd in ary crimi- lial», to fa ll bacV upon th e ir own reiource», wliich.

f« r goneral purpoec« o f iovoktigatioB, -wtre Mitl' Impoii'cct, w liea cunrpaxtfd witK those ol* ihi?

PreocJi jw lirc. So th a t In S pam , by a ^ceat « |jpw pn t contradiction, the com rron offciidcp tre-> queuUy evaded tho p u rsu it o f ju stice for y ea rs ; * i i l c crimcft tim e d dtrecfly ag a in s t th e tk ro ae , bowovor adroitly eoneealod, wer« o ften detected, a i d pun ished w ith a rap id ity which, in th e evo*. o f the po<jple, resem bled th e in s ta n t ju d g m en t o f an offended G od. I t may how erer b e eih- w rre d , tlu it in those part« o f th e coim try which have latt«*rly bttcoiae 5 frerpient sceno o f con* iipiracv an d ditftorbvice, th e ^ n £ r d perrep tinna o f the Spanish polioc h ay e bccom o wonderftiUy improTed.

T lie S |)anu ird o f th e o ld school i<fentiSes his' own honour, pu re ly and en tire ly , witl» lh a t o f hia Soy«*eign. W hen , o n a certa in occasion, K ing F e rd in a n d a rrested some ind iv iduals o f nam e and w eight, w ithou t assign ing any reasons for th e p roceeding , th o arroat natnroU y bccam c a p rom inent eubjoct o f fv;>Dvenation a t th o m ark e tplace a neighbouring city. Such »n exertion o i th e reg a l au tho rity would p ro b aU y , m K og- bm d, h a re a t anv tim e excited a re sen tfu l fee ling am ong th e p e o p le ; b u t in proportion as th e ac t was sttfitlin^ , and arb itrary , a n d unexplained, d id (h e S pan iards th in k i t r ig h t w orthy o f theix Sovere ign , a n d s tru tted ab o u t rejoicing in d ie fu ln m

k 2

poxrer, an d s a j in g w ltli prido an d plca&iir«i “ mvcfiO Het f " h e is a K in g every inch o f HiUs A n d ye t to such a peop le our lib e ra l {>Û(icians would rcoom m cnd Jaws an d instiiiitiuns iltled only Tor h aatiun o f repuhlioans.

B efore wc continued our journey , wc w ent to a neii'hbouring convcnt to see th e rea l, o r supposed, sJcelcton o f a saiot, ib r 1 fe lt b y no means corta in tlia t D r. Buclcland would have declared i t u rem n an t o f th e “ hum an io m i divine.’’ I

d id n o t iiowever b e iray a Kuspivlon which would h a re scandalised m y Hoy a lii t friends, who were g rea tly m oved a t tb c s ig h t o f th is re lic , an d ic- d ijp iuntly po in ted o u t som e iTtjuriCB inflicted on it by th e C onitilulionalistB . “ M ala f i , m ala fe ," *aid lljc C orporal, slowly an d gravely shak ing his head . “ S pain sh a ll b e governed b y h er K ing i lo n c l ’* a d d ed lus m ore im petuous companion,

W liilo I w as consum ing niy fisli an d wine, a fria r aj/proached niu, apparen tly fa tigued , and sa id h e Jiud been traTelUng barefooted towards M adrid to solicit an interview w ith th e K ing , bu t h«ul n o t b een allowed by th e au tho rities to icaeh tJie capital, and was now re tu ro in g to liis convent.1 re<]ac>stcd him to p a rtak e o f m y hiimUlc faro, which h e declined, say in g exu lting ly , •' B ehold , uiy Son, the advan tages a ttach ed to my holy pi*ofc*- 8ton," an d as h e bpoke, lie drew fi'om Iiia pocket a bad^jn o f his o rd er which ad m itted Wm in to any

iDonBstcrv, an d e n titled h iin lo a ecU fo r th e night, and to a aliare o f th e best ptoviRions, A s the soldiers were on reg u la r du ty , th e Scrg;cant h ad instructioBfe to levy horses in th e nam e o f the G overnm ent, au d eonseqiiently ap|)liGd to the A lcalde ol* the d istric t to ass is t h im in th e execution o f h is orders.

T h e appearance o f th is w orthy ofRecr o f tlio Crown w as bcÔBd deserip tion lu d ic ro u s; hia drL^ss'vas lite ra lly in ta t te r s ; he wore n o coat, bu t carried on one arm th e re moan o f w hat h ad been a ja ck e t in h is youthful days, th en paat «omo fo rty y e a rs ; h is w aietcoat wan o f a faded crim son; h is eh irt sleeves, Ihjiu continual weax and little washic|^. h a d aasximcd a nio*it som bre h u e ; h is 9mall*clothes, b u tto n ed h ig h on the sides, were fu ll o f g ap in g h o le s ; so w e hi* fitocki n g s ; th e long flaps o f h i s pookots n ; sem bled aw es' ears : th e ends o f h is shoes tu rn e d up IQ fro n t w ith a m ost ex trav ag an t flourish, while th e heels were absolutely ob lite ra ted . O n liis head h e proiid ly carried a pcak«5d cap, to which *08 affixed th e badge o f office, b u t o u t o l all modcBl proportion , so h u g e it wa». In adilitioo, th e cloth o f h is cap w as hv islcd in to a so rt o f hum which projected far in front, an d was in tended to invest th e offlrial p igm y '* ith a great«? awe an d d ign ity , h u t unluckily i t h a d tlie m ost buileaque effect im agin able. T ie scarcely a tta in ed

I tre feot in W igH t, bu t h a d c k v a tc d himMkf to Biiuiáard o f coinoitm lu e a Lv |Mfr<3ung judi*

ciouidy o n a nc\g}il>ouTÍng hillock. ^ statíotieá, ím drew u p hi« díinÍDutÍve figure, a o d glanced h is litlli? eagk; eves sround w ith an expression ^conscioofi im portaace, as be d e c l a r é h e would ^ forlhw llh jirooiulgate Ids orders fo r tlic fresk •supply o f h<ji*fii*s. w hich th e SeiâTtf. dem andod in the nam e o f bit» Govemuôní. T h e F ria r , whi was w aggishly ia J io e d , an d d ú p o n ^ to abate A» crvfcas o f m agniftccnpr whieh oomploti'ly crcr- a b ^ u w e d b is own eccloslaitical coaseûccco, ap* |iroaclied the l i ttle P o teu ta to barebeadod , atul •m th an a ir o f deep humiUty. H e sa id , th a t Aorac «rifiiiig erro rs m ig b t bave u t^p t in to b b passport,•eoine uecessarv signalu res m i^ b t bave been omit»

in sbort. In tb e d is tu rb ed sta te o l the M>un- 4ry, b e was m ost anxious to obtain h is TlxccV*

opinion o f a docum ent so csôntial to bid«afoty.

T h o A lcalde com m cndod him fo r th e rcadincsa iv itb which b e liad voluntarily »ubm iited hie ca«o ilv tb e uivil autliorltie«. received b is pasB|«ort, and ^ la n r in g oyer it, assured him th a t hia approhcn- atoDS w ere well founded. H e observed th a t, by

la s t regvilaiion, fravellcrs w ere ri>(|uired to «bSain th e » g a a tu re o f every A lcalde th rough « h o se d istrict th ey m ig h t happen to pas» ; b u t ia &hc patw port. th en u n d er hi« inapcotion. some in i'

porlan t sigitat«reB wero waTiting. T hle om isw Q would c p ta il upon th e M o o t tb c p ay m en t o f » fioc', w likh he, th e A lcalde, w o u ld receive, an d apply ho Iho UBoa o f th e etatc. A fte r th k oxj>osi* tion o f th e law , h e trun tcd th a t tlie M onk w o d d oo t encroach npon h is riUii&blc CiTnc by any un* »«cow an delay, h u t w ould forthw ith pay the ponaHy. T b e M onk s ^ d in re jJy , h e should o f licfursO snho iit t o h is ExccHcnoy’* d n is lo n , w ith the defctcnco th a t becam e a poor F r ia r trans* acting business w ith a P c n o n o f h is csR ltcd statio n ; b u t feeling anxious to avoid cmy future irreguUriii«rB, b e implcFTod lii» ExccUcney to ^ u a rd a g a in a t th e posMVility o f th<»ir rem irenctv hy Bpftcifying th e p e rticu la r Bigiiaturoft om itted \a h is passport.

T h e inan o f pom p seem ed m uch annoyed liy th is audafnfTue sp irit o f m quiry . A t iirst I only s»rpposed th a t hifi d ign ity would no t stoop to d ebate , b u t h is ioercasing confusion \cA m e to ffiwpect a d o q ic r csub«, A b«nrd a n d orlgôal aa th e c rea tu re wae, th e solu tion o f b is em barrasa- m cn t really Burjvised me, for, like th e g roa t m en of vore, h e proTcd W b e to ta lly u n aa ju a in le d w ith th e a rt o f le tte rs . Supposing, however, from the F ria r’s ap p sio n t doubts, an d from hia alltisHm to certa in su]i])osed mnisftions, th a t som e inforraafity o f th a t n a tn re existed in h is p a ssp o rt, h e h a d deter* rained to talie a d v a n t i ^ o f th i? "hcliif a n d exact-»

fioo, which w ould certain ly never have been tran sm itte d to Ills M aj csf 'b exchequer. Th«? Sergeant, jo in in g u s a t th a t m onxnu, looked o re r the pas^. jxjrf, an d detlai*ed th a t th e only signa tu re de- fielent was th a t o f th o illui>lrious A lcalde him self; a doficicncy exp la ined by hia inab ility to write, a a d y e t re luctance to pxpow hi» ig rn ran ce b j p u ttin g the m ark reqtiJrcd u n d er such circumstances. T )ic S e rg ean t th en observed th a t the F r ia r was leg a lly e n titled to oxact a fine from th e Alf*ft)dc, Ibr liav ing on u tted t o place h is m ark upon a p ;issport regu larly forw arded io him . T h is aiinouncem cnl w as received w iih dclig lit h y th e crafty m onk, who b ad deliberately le d tiw A lcaldc in to th is ridiculous »crapc, “ S o h u n lu t iabii(<c:" th e l i ttle m an abdica ted h is hillock, aad sn e a te d o(F pray ing for meavy, aniid th e sliouta o f th e soldiers, ‘' i ^ u a n t i im miclaiua a h U h , " who la te ly stood magnificent, an d sa id “ h e would pro* m u lgale h is order» th roughou t the land."

W e continued, fo r m any hours, to p u rsu e our journey tlirough the Iieart o f G allic ia ; th e country was w ild a n d unfrequented, an d th o m anners o f ih e \yco\i\e tru ly p riu iilive, fo r they have little com niuutcatioo w itli tb c world, from which they a re se iia ra ted by th e ir m ountw ns, A fine wintry su nse t was followed by a Uright frosty n ig h t : a t a la te h o u r we reached a venta, o r soUiary house; i t w as p re ttily placed beh ind a clum p o f trees.

b u t nu 'c ly pcr1idi)a i a tLe record o f any traveller has such an abso lu te hovel b een dIg^Di£ixl by the sam e o f a-n inn. T b e principal apartm en t was piotures+jue ecouj^b. T h e waifs w ere blackcDed w ith soot, and nrifhoi' floor noi' paveo ien t covered the b are earth . A s th e re w as n o chioinry, tbo room was filled w ith m urkv clouds, U irough which 1 distingui^hod u a old woman, laulastically dressed, looking like a m toh, and s tirring u p the cauldron destined to I'olleve our physical wants. T ill I becam e in som e dcgi*ce actURtomed to th a t in to lerab le alm osphere. I fluctuated betw een the arc He a n d the iropic re g io n s ; th e rlouds o f smoke inflam injj m y th ro a t an d eyes, repeated ly drove mo from the hovel, and tb e rigou r o f tlie ex ternal air as frequently forced m e back to m v T a rta rean cavern. A » th e soldicTs th o u g h t them selves bound lo follow these ra p id transitions, th e inm ates of tho ven ta m ust h a \c supposed u s <;n gaged in a gam e o f h id e and seelc; a n J , a t len g th , ih e effect became so ludicrous th a t I n u s ob liged lo renounce the ambulator}' syBtem, an d sa t, us th e hapless in fidel is descrilKid to sit, in tlie em phatic diction ol* tlic K oran, uuder h colum n o f sm oke neither cool nor a ^ c e a h le .

I n th e m ean tim e M am iel, my P ortuguese m uleteer, was m ak in g desp era te lovo to a pondo* rous dam sel, whose appearance >ras b v no means favourable to the le ad e r passion. I overheard

x 3

h im te ll her, th a t h e ifllly expcctcd U> »w iorai«i^ m e to E n g la n d in t}tc capocitv o i head m uleti)«^ an d sh o u ld M s bopcc, in tli&t rc&pect, be realised, k * ‘w u anncraii to convey h e r w ith him m h it i>ride. H e llieu a t ta r io d a l e u youth lu l d»aw, aorf ftsked h e r w hether th e monkfi rtf()rcBeQt«d ih e ir ab sc n l husbands, w ith salisfactioo to the fa ir sox, an d with crcd it to them aelvcs ? T o which «he answered, w ilh perfect coolnee», “ V astly wc8, in d eed ." “ T h is young wom an,'’ sa id M anual, ad d re ss in g m e, “ is th e d au g h te r ol a F ria r ." I a d e d h e r w hether h is staletD ent were co rrec t; « n d she Knswi>red, w ithou t h c s ita tb n , i n the affizmative.

A iMrlioQ o f th e QaUiciau peasan try abandon th e ir hom es fo r m any m on th s in the vear, snd seek em ploym ent in otlu^r p a r ts o f Ih e kingdom. T h w e jH)or m en a re p ro rcrb ia lly industrious, hirt scldotn rea lise m uch b y th e ir ox^wdition«.

1 now re tire d to ren t; m r sleep ing aparlm oQ t ¿ a d n e ith e r door n o r windows, au d i ts n ak ed walls « w c left in tlie p rim itive g ran d eu r o f briek and m ortar. T h e soldiers collected ru n n d th e entrance th a t led in to th is s trange recce«, an d bocame quickly engajêd in a gam e a t cards, b u t spoke in w hispers, Hp|)ar(>ntly unw ilhng t o d is tu rb me. I was, however, sw m aroused b y an altercation, «arid h ea rd th e soldicw ev idently re s is tin g some 'proposal, u rg ed in a sh iiil a n d trem ulous t O M

b j â pet«cm whose voice I dM no t locogaiee : tîie cauRC Uiie cxcitom cirt w es whijDsical ênougii, and cliaractpristic o f th e p lace an d tim e. T b e irifc o f a neigbl>ounQg peftsant had been apprised o f tbo eircum stanccs un d er wldcii I h a d srrivfrd 3rt lh e veota. a e d w as ex trem ely u rg e n t to see me. She doplared th a t sh e h ad often h e a rd o f those borrid n r ^ m , b u t h a d nevw chanced lo behold one o f th a t im pious sect. S he w ould no t eru danger h er soul by ta rry in g in h is eompairy, b u t confessed th a t h e r disappoinÎTueui v»Oüld b e deep tridoed. i f *he were com pelled to d ep a rt w ithout Beoxng » sigh t sh e m ig h t n ev er have an opportu n ity o f w itnesaing again.

T h e floW ers, who, m uch as t lie v b a te d a C on- slitutionaliB t. were n o t nndcv th e tntiuence of tb e lit rjro siiperstitioD . ^hioh w as chiefly, i f not entirelv iHmfined to th e p easan try , were h a lf d i^ |)leased aod h a lf am nsed b y th is abeurd biter- ru|iti(m . T hey tu rn e d how erer a d e a f ear to b er rem onstrances, which becam e so p a th e tic th a t my h ea rt wo« touclied, an d 1 b eg g ed th e soldiers to gratijV h er curiosity. S he apîroachcd m e «lowly, cwKuing herself, an d m u tte rin g an A re M aria to sh ie ld h e r, body an d soui, d Bring the perilons p rogress she waji m ald n g tow ards th a t iocam aic devil, w bidi sbe Itelievcd m e to b e . A fte r gasii)^ t« r som e tim e, a t a cautioua distance, on the

o b jc c t o f lio i' H uspicion, fehc r e t r e a t e d , v c ü a g ino in all p ro b a b i l i ty a ¡ kku* s p c c í io c n u f t h e h c D b li

b ro o d , a n d d is n p p o in tc d a t p c rc c iv in g n c it l ie r h o rn s , n o r dovcn fo o l, n o r D O strils o f f i ie , n o r a n j u n e q u iv o c a l s j 'm p to m o f t h e ficnd-

T h c n ig h t w ind was to cold and p iercing , tlia t I h ad little inclination to rem ain lo n g on my couch o f re s t, though uiuclx fa liû u d b y th o day’s joui'DO). K arly ou th e following m orn ing I resum ed m j p lace ill th o hovel, and waa ag a in h a lf sulTocated by t»o)oke. T h e soldiers guarded the e n tra n tc , an d aa I wa« b en d in g over tb o Cru in fancicd bolitude, trac in g íiguio» w iüi njy stick in iLo d j'in ^ emljci*a, a n d engrossed h y th e recollection o f o lhcr tim es an<l faircv bCCUCB, 1 was sud* dciily biôught to a fu ll sense o f m y actual locality by a shrill cry o f “ A lros! alm s) wlilcli »cciued to p ro rccd from tho very «pol w here I w as seated, *lbe petitiotiCk' was »1 firet inTÍaiblo, bu t fkfter niucli in»pe(tion I discovered a wom an in the m uikicftt cornci* o f tlic h u t. S be an d h e r four rh iW rrn w ere alm ost buried b e n e a th a m ingled Lea¡> o f felmu an d rag s. Thii> s tran g e a | p llcant fo r charity proved to be tiio land lady « siatei'; h e r h ab ita lio ti was in i)lth an d in d a ik o ess , the a to ibvph irc slie b reathed was th e dcn^cbt suioUe, h e r face, begrim ed with soot, seem ed hard ly hu* roan, an d Lor cry ^âs lil<o a wail from the infcruai

region». Such ia a fa ith fu l picluro o f a G aliicU n in n in the mofct iinciviUzcd p a r t o f th o proT ince; gucH llie deg raded stftte o f i ts inm alcs.

T h e r r s t o f tlic p a rty gradually assem bled, and M anuel, roy P o rtu g u ese m u k tc e r , an d a G allician p easan t, w ere soon engaged in a warm discus- gion rcspoctiog th e Lord'n P rayer. T h e G ailician rep ea ted i t i n a solcinn voicc, w ith up lifted haods, an d a countenance exprcbfeive o f ih o m ost forveni devo tio n ; while M anuel, who wat» a native o f OpoTto and affected an u t te r con tem pt ib r all relig ious rites, dcelarcd t l ia t Jie h a d long forg o tten the !<>rd'a P ray er ; an aTowal which excited the u tm o st in d igna tion in th e G allician , who rcproiichcHi him in *urh V ittcr and unm ea- sorw l language, th a t M anuel re trac ted th e confession h e h ad jub t m ad e ; for, like luany o f tlie C onstitu tion ali sfs, am ong tlie lower claasc*, he en te rta in ed a Btropg tliough sccret b e lie f in the doctrines o f tlu? C hurch which h e p re ten d ed to revile. T h e G allician trea ted h is recantation wiQi such ev ident incredulity an d acorn, th a t M anuel, a tu n g to the quicl<, offered to b e t th a t h e could rep ea t the L o id ’n P ra ) cr correctly. T h e honest jjcasant accepted liis w ager, b u t observed, fairly enough , th a t a m an who h a d m ade tw o coa- liad ic to ry sta tem ents in the sam e h rea tli, m igh t possibly refuse to p ay lii« ju s t deb ts, if declared a loser. l i e therefore ivqu ired , ae a prk liu iiaary.

4bat, tb e tr ia l, b o th p«rti«e ^ o u l d de^KMilIh e ir T e a p e c t i v e shares in th e h an d s n f a thii*d j>crson. M annc) acocded to th is arrsogem eiA , saA th e money wm placed, a t h is own roquÂl» in th e hands o f th e young wom an w ith whom he h ad tjir tcd eo gallan tly o n th e p reced ing evt^niTig,

M ao ae l rep ea ted th e L o rd ’s Prayer» and wcrald tfcrtainJy h a re b«en ad ju d g ed trium phan t, thcnigh th e GfalKctan d isp u ted th o correetn«ee o f a singte w ord ; b u t whilo th is skirtm sliiug mee carried on o t tk e out-pOKtK, Ib e c itadel was b e tra v rd . 'H ie y o ung wom ao said, addressing those around her, th a t M anuol h ad evidently won tb o b e t, an d tha t, u n d er sucli circum stances, she considered h er claim to th e m oney superior e rc n to his. H o h ad m ade h e r two prom ises, on tbo previous nights— to m ake h e r m ititress ol' all b is g o o d s ,~ a n d to tak e h er w ith him to Kogl&nd. T hese he b ad clearly no in ton tiim o f ca rry ing in to olfcctj Uie la« t. indeed, ebe could n o t o b l ^ him to fulfil, b u t sh e would tak e good caro llxat b e pcrlbrm ed tb o tirAt. a t lem t in p a rt. Saying th is, she dep a rted . unpercoived by th o e a g e r d ispu tan ts, who were only apprised o f th e failu re o f the bank a gen era l ro a r o f lau g h te r. T h e G allic ian was thunderstruck , b u t M anuel’s em otion 'va« o f • m ore lively character. ZIe decU red, th a t no earth ly pow er shou ld in d u ce h im to q u it tho hovel, t in h e h ad recovered i k e m oney, o f i^ i e h

h e bftd been b*»e>y flcfrftüdcd by %n iniiroou« woman, T h e Sctêfto t, htrê^fcr, inibrmc<l h in b r ic f l r t l i a l th e tim o fixed fo r th e roncw el o f Ù a D i a r c h hful «rrived. ffnd Ihô t h c m u st m oynt b i s m u k w ithout deU y. A lud icrcus eoone o f

pro te rtà tio n , en trea ty , and im p o te n t r u r ü t , en- •ufid. T h e inm ates o f thé h o re l rcftised W Bssirt him in find ing th e y w n g woman ; th e S ergeant, who«f muscle* h a d n o t undorgone th o s ligh test change, «>'sdcntJy th o u g lit i t b en ea th hi* d ign ity to in terfere , an d calmly. \fu t «tcrnly, in*i»led on hi* in s ta n t complianc« w itli tho ordetft to m arch ; wliile th o BüUücr* a»eared liiro th a t h e h ad ^ l y won th e b e t, an d if h e t a d lo s t h is m oney h e had » v e d b is honour ; a species o f consolation which « im iila ted h is rage. M eanwhile h is w orthy bu t som ew hat s t o p i d o p p o n e n t , o n l y j u s t r o c o v « * Í D g

f r o m h i s a m a s c m e n t , l o o k e d o n i n s i l e n c e , h a l f

d i s p l e a s e d a t a m a n œ u v r e which b e j u s t l y c o n s i

d e r e d d i s h o n e s t , a n d h a l f g r a t i f i e d I r j t b o s i g n a l

o v e r t h r o w o f h i s i m p i o u s a d v c r s a j y , f o r h e c l e a r l y

s a w t h a t t h e a t f t k i r c o n c e r n e d h i m n o t . a s t h e

a n o n e y w o u l d h a v e h c e n u n a n i m o u s l y a w a r d e d

t o M a n u e l . THp e n r a g e d L o t h a r i o w a s t i n a l l y

» a r c h e d o f f . b u t c ^ e r a i j d a n o n h e c a s t d o l e f u l

g l a n c e s o n t h e G a l U c i a n h u t . w h e r e , s e v e r e d f r o m

h i s ¿ d e , t h e e h e r i * b o d c o p p e r * o t* h i s a f f e c t i o n

w e r e s n u g l y d e p o s i t M .

I t m a y b e e a i d t h a t 1 h a T C d w e l l t o o m u c h u p o n

t r i f l i n g o c c u r r e n c e s , a n d f a r t i i l e a d i n g t o n o r e

s u l t » ; b u f 0 3 t b e t m v c U c r c a n o n l y b « c u m c w e l l

a c q u a i n t e d w i ( h t h e f e e l i n g s a n d o p i n i o - n s o f a

p e o p l e , b y o b s c T T i n g t h e i r p e c u l i a r m o d e s o f

t h o u g h I , a n d n o t i c i n g t h e i r c a s u a l r e m a r k s ; d o

h e c « i o n l y h o p e t o e o D v e y a f a i t h f u l p i c t u r c

o f t h a t p e o p l e , b y c o m r D u n i c a t i n g t o h i » r o a d e r s

Ih o B C f a c t s , h o w e v e r t r i v i a l t h e y m a y b e , w h i c h

h a T e e o n t r i l K i t e d t o i b r m h i s g e n e r a l c b t u o a t e o f

t h o n a t i o n a l c l u i r a c l e r : a n d t h i s o b s c r x - a t i o a i s

p e r h a p s a p p l i c a b l e t o a f a r h i g h e r s p e c i e s o f c o m -

p o e i t i o n . T h e m o s t u s e f u l p a r t o f h i s t o r y i s o f t e n

t h e m o s t n o g l e c t c d ; U i e r e a d e r i s f a t i g u e d w i t h

m i h t a r y o p e r a t i o r i R , a n d t r e a t i e s i n e n d l c « d e t a i l ,

w h i l e t h a t w h i c h i s f r a u g h t w i t h a f a r d e e p e r

j n t c i * e s t t o a c o r o p r e h e n » i v u m i n d ; t l i e p r o g r n s »

o f s o c i e t y ; t b o o p i n i o n s e n t e r t a i n e d a t v a r i o u s

e p o r h s h y t h e p e o p l e , n o t o n l y o n p o l i t i c a l m a t t e r s ,

b u t o n s u b j e c t s c o n n e c t e d w i t h o v d i n a i y l i f e ; a n d

t h e r e l a t i v e d e g r e e s o f c i v i l i z a t i o n i n d i f l e r e n t

p e r i o d s ; a r e s l i g h t l y a l l u d e d t o , o r p a s s ^ e d o v e r

i n s i l e n c e . T h e s e c o n s i d e r a t i o n s a r e d E q u - iv o d o f

t h e i r d u e w e i g h t , m a i n l y , i b c l i e v o , b c c a u s e t h e y

a r c b e e t i l l u s t r a t e d h y d e t a i l k w h i c h t h e a u t h o r

t o o o f t e n r e j e c t » a s t j i v i a l a n d b e n e a t h t h e d i g

n i t y o f h i s t o r i c a l t o m p o f i i t i o n . I h d 1 a i o p l u n g

i n g i n t o a d i s c u s s i o n w h i c h 1 h a v e n o b a s iD O M

t o i n f l i c t o n t l » e r e a d e r o f a S p a n i s h t o u r . I

w i l i t h e r e f o r e c o n c l u d e t l i i » l i t t l e d i g r o s ^ i o n b y

r e l i e v i n g l i i m f r o m i 'h e i c o r o f a u j f u i t l i c r d e t a i l s

c o n n e c t e d w i l h m y G a i l i c i a n e x p e d i t i o n .

A* wc ftpproachcd Saotiago th e charactor o f the couotry c h a n g e d ; th e g round w as boauti- AiUy undu la ted , th e v e rd u re deligKtful, and stream s u f tiie c learest w ater u licundcd. M&n was also evidently h ig h e r in th e scale o f c rea tio n ; t}iO Alcaldeb o f d istric ts couM alwa>tt read» and eom eluaes xtrite j th e ir a la rm in g horn* were mo* Jilted , and th e holoa in th e ir a ltlre becam e less h u g e an d num erous. A s \je drew n e a r Santiago 1 bccam e extrem ely anxious about soidl* papers in m y possession. A traveller su sta in s an h tc - p arab le lu jiiry in the loss o f h is joum ul, w hen i t is a sum m aiy o f facta and observations, and a daily i*ecord o f event«, an d 1 rem em bered wltli uneasi- ncsB Uie deetruciiou o f m y noteb du rlu g th e C a ta lan H<ri'olution in 1B22: ■nof.cs com piled w ith care d u rin g a lo n g residcnco In th e co u n try , w ritten, too, a t a tim e w hen Siâin^ revolutionary, an d s trugg ling , b u t kHII rom antic Spain, hod , in ray eyes, a ll the eliarms o f no v e lty ; when m y own feelings w ere com paratively fre sb ; wlien m v in ind was s till tinder th o influence o f vcecnt a n d vivid iraproksions. an d d u rin g a ]terÍod o f uncqxialled political in terest.

1 h a d a ^ m a l l m a t i r e s s , t h e o n l y l u x u r y I c a r r i c d

w i t h m e i r o o i O p o r t o ; t h o u g h i t b a d b e c o m e s o

t o r n a n d d i r t y , t h a t 1 h a d , l a t t e r l y , b u t b c l d o m

« p p lie d r t to th e pu rp o se fo r w hich i t wo$ origifr. ftlly iiituoded. itrs t p laced u n d er arrc«tl a T-ugo, I fore»»w th a t a rig id exam ination of f f l j p ap ers wonUl C T C D lu a l lv h e in s titu ted , an d I l e k th a t th e frecjnent allusion^j to the G oyem - w e n t, an d tv th e s la te o f th e PoantiT, w ould coo- firm th e RUflpioion ontcrtfiined to th e m o t i t^ o f m y journey , a n d would p ro h a b lj ren d er t h ^ ee iiu re ( 'e rtsin . U n d e r th is convicti&D I m ade • r i i t in th e m attress , in se rted oiy p ap ers in to ihe ijpeninff, an d h a d th e sep a ra ted p a rts sewed np b y m y servant. T h is dirricc m i|rh t succeed w ith th e ru stic poUcc o f X<u§;o, h u t 1 th o u g h t th a t ih e m ore p ractised a ^ n t s o f the cen tra l (¿cvernm ent w ould explore eveiy nook o l'm y rag g ed bedding'. I t ira s nut, how«ver, a t th is d rne eaav to remove th o p ap era secretly, as the sold iers watched my m aveuients w ith un re lax ed vigilance, n o r could even m y a m 'a n ts ab sen t thom eolves from the p a rty for m any m in stes toge ther, w ithou t excitin g snspiciou. Indeed, I found i t difficolt to com- mimtca.te w ith A ntonin, oa any appcaraDee OC eonsultution would h a re increased th e ir watchfiiJ' oess an d defeated m y in ten tio n I n th is diiem io» I resorted , iBwilVin gly, to a d isagrei'ab le arrilioe; a fte r our m id-day h a lt, and ju e t before we raou i««Î ái»h*cd A n ton io to a rra n g e th e lu g g ag e on th e m W , eo au to em barrass, v*itho«t ab«4ule{y p o d i i^ , th e pro g ress o f th e anim al, o r rendering

911. V.] D£LATIiD D T C O S 7 0 H < tIO " a K 2 1 1

tb o usit*tATtcc o f a th i rd |>eTs<m D e e « e e « r y . H o to<4c hiAti ftTiii w hen we hfid |iroc«edt‘d A ii l t l i -wa^ J p r r tsn d e d to porc<nvc. for the 6 r« t lim e, th e confiiMid «tatc o f the lu g g ag e . 1 w axed HTftthful, ao d approach ing A oteiuo . toM him« in E ng lieh , Iu d ia reg a td th f fe ig o ed iir ita tlo n o f m y m anner, and to p ay the aU‘ic(c«t a tten tio n to every «<7d, as L bbould Lave n o fu tu re opp o rran ity of pca tiog loy iiu tm ctiona . I tL en to ld l u u Low to rem ove roy paper» from tLc m attiC K . to p n t M anuel p a rtia lly in oui' confidvnuv, and , w ith Lie sAsislance, coneoal th rm in the h ay w ith vûch he fed Li« rnxdea, iintnedialely a f te r o u t arrival tA •Buitiago.

^ u r coDforence wa« sho rt, y e t d id n o t escape khc u\>ser\aticii o l tLe »oU iera; h u t tb cy eiiB- p cc ted n o colhiston, as they saw ray a ttcn tio s exclusively an d aftg jily d irected tow ards tLe dis> o rd e red s ta te o f t h t b ag g ag e . M y tears wcvc, Lowcvct, roviTcd a t th e h a rrie r o f SuitiMgo. '»hcav we wore delayed by tlie Cuvtom-hcttMe ofEcer^ who insisleti cm Bcarching ray effects. T h e p ride o f au tL ority res<i;e^ m y paper» Irum Uub fracih iiazard , for th e Sergean t dccU red th a t I was wholly u n d er tb e m ilitary arm i tL at Le w as ‘boood to coiisigD m e to th e Oaptain-Cxencral o f tLe p ro vince ; th a t, in m y ac tu a l position , I >Tas no t aroe* nabic to any civil pow er, an d h e w ould no t to lera te tLe in terfereoce o f any civil oiGci^r. A fte r a

warm diwuusioD, we procecdfd th roug li th e city to tlie residence o f th e O aptaiu-C icneral. H e waa talcing liis siesta, an d I was deta in ed ra th e r longor (Iiaa I approved of, in an ap a rtm en t opening into th e audience room. H e w as a t len g th declared to o unw ell to transai^t huRineas th a t evening, and soon ufterwardB th e S cc ie ta rj o f Police r-amo to m e, Gxaraincd m y paasporf, declared t l ia t it was perfectly corrcct, a n d expresfeed hia astoalBhm eqt .-4 a t tb e conduct o f tlic A uthorities o f L u g o , whom * h e dcnoin inaled m adm en. H e said, h e ^Koald rep resen t th e ir folly an d insolence in the Btronge«t colours (0 tiie C aptain*G eneral, b eg g ed m e to accep t a tliousand aiwloglos, an d restored m e a t once to perfec t liberty . T h is decision was received with g ie a t applause by m y U oyalist couipanions, who,DOW no longer m y guards, insisted upon accompany ing m r as friends to Hie Esti*clla inn. I was h ap p y to wee them iu th a f capacity, and g lad to b e released froui th e ir perpe tua l Tigilacce. T h e in n \?as l<cpt b y a Frenchm an, a a d xras Sk bupe- rio r in com fort an d cleanliness to m y laol abode, th e V iuda S a a V alen tina, th o u g h no fem iliar !visits from tlio g rea t P a tro n Sfdnt o f S pain were recorded in i ts annals.

C H A P T E R V I.

Aothcr A trc'.Ua â|MO-Dti»eri|.»icpii of Eguia. th^>n rapt»iii- GraarkS. /«mv"* C»ikist œimn»niîinif m—Efiiiia'k Author Rxaoaiûcd—Rereiio# in S.^miau'*»on y»joW—St»t« of Piklilic Feelinn—limneo»* P -* » r u f »ha C k r^ j—Sima'sh N fU io i o f RÛgious Lo»»,* *»»11Di.'^glioo « Sp Ù#—ViRilwic« o f tli>‘ Poi\»—StA.<r Atoeh»— > Yfima'» Tribuflil—Author Restored U I.>Uriy—Itc-cakrt Poi1i«ft1.

I WAS now free ; b u l w hen I r e f la te â upon fh e arb itrary incMuret» pu rsued by th « A uthorxties, in «nnimoning n ie lo tb e ir condavc in th e m iddle o f ih c Tiigbt, an d com pelling m e to «n d erlak e a long an d difficult expedition, d u rin g an inclem ent season ; w hen 1 rcm om boi'cd, albO, Ih e s tii^ t injunctions to p rev en t m y eacapc; m y sudden an d unconditional T c l e a s e appeared cron m ore asto- n isliing th a n m y ¡jrevious arrosl, I could no t divine fh e reasons which h ad indaeed those iroTlhies to sen d m o bo jealously guarded to the capilAl o f GalUcia, an d th en le t m e loose in Ihc streets, an d b id m e go ab o u t m y busin ess , B u t while I WAS m using o n th e s tran g e conduct of men who seem ed lo b e ra th e r g id d cd b y raprieo Ihftn by any cooaisU^nt m otixe. anolhei vicissitu d e o f fortune was a t hand. E a r ly on th e fol- lom ng m orning I was again p laecd nndcr a r re s t

A l twcWc o'cloclc thfl ScfTctary o f Police called on me, and requested mo to accom ptny }iim to th e audicnee room, n lie re tlie C aptaui-gonei'al aw aited m y arrived.

I found E i'u ia , th e C apt«T i-G eneral o f GaJlIcia, ro a lefty room, look iog Uko an Inqu isito r o f i>ld, a Ijlack cap on h is Head, « id in d eed en tire ly h a b ited in black, s ittin g in a djaiv o f s ta le Ixfore a lo n g t&ble covered w ith groen Laize, a n d »ur* w w id e d by officers, an d persons connectcd with tlie police. W p i^xolmngcTd sa lu ta tions coldly, aod I sa t duwo in a ebair louuediatel)' o p poske to his. H e broke silcnc« b y «xprcw ing Kie re g re t a t find iug h iioself u n d e r tlio neeosît; ol' proceeding w ith an inquiry, ren d ered indiftpcDftablo b y ir>y co n d u c t; b u t, iu tlic lirbt place, h e th o u g h t i t rlghfc to u rg e mo in th e m o«t solem n m anner to m i i k a

a fid l conleaîon tjf every particu lar. I said, in M sw cr, th a t no words cûld express tho a s to n i^ - m e n t produced in my m lod b y th e ex trao rd inary condoct th a t h ad been adop ted tow ards m o; I h ad becD ib rc ib lf conrcyed acrow ti>o monntaiiM tu S a n t i a ^ , w ithout h av iag receired the m ovt d is ta n t in tim ation o f th o rcsitons which h ad in^ duced the A utlioritie« to re so r t t o such a m ea' s u re ; I h a d hocn, hcpwover. la s t e ig h t, release«!, a n d assu red b y th e Secretary, th a t th e Contra} C «T erom ent o f tlie province was b o th astonJshod a a ^ diijplcaeed a i th e proeecdings o i th e polie»

of L ugo. 1 Wft». t to i 'f o r e , mucli wurpriscd a t ^

Excellency’» dddrc»».11c answered, i b « th e Secretary w»s n o t tb c a

w a r e o f til« secret correbpondence th a t h a d taken plftcc I'Cspccting m e ; or, th a t tlie AuthorUaes o f L ugo were »cCiug in fioncertw ith the G overnm opt o f Santiago. 'FKe S ocretw y h a d m erely looked a t my vaA8|*ort, a n d lind ing i t correct b ad f«%- M red llie ir p jw ced in g s , xmdcr th e inislftken tua- pccMioii th a t m j a rrest h a d bên fovindcd oo. eomc supposed informwlity in th a t dooum eot H e coocUidod b y u rg in g m e agw n, moat so- k » n ly , Uj confcM, a« any evasion w ould b e n»e- IcM ; fo r h e a s tu rcd m e th a t every a c t 1 t a d comm itted, every o |)in ioa I h a d ejrpre»8ed, an d alniost every word 1 hsul u tte re d since cpy en trance into Spain, WiiTo kuowTY to th e tr ib u n a l o f th e police- F rom th e emphiUHc to n e in which h e m ade th k as»ertioT>, an d irom d ie d eep a tten tio n w ith whiuh It wt& received, a s tran g er m ig h t have supposed th a t h e arro g a ted to h im self th e power o f t.ecuag' in to all heailt*,. an d th a t hia claim to such a divroe a ttrib u te woa acquiosced in b y iiifl rc tw n ers . B u t io fact, thi* ma-nner is assuincd to a iirp rite the unguarded conapiratijr in to a fa ll coufcftBien of hia crime», b y persuad ing Wm th a t h e ia aur* rtm nded by a a ¡nviaibk, b u t overwhelm ing and om niscient agency, from whose to ils th e re ia n » cicape. I rcpb<*d w ith u*armth, th a t 1 bad n o

confcsfibn lo m ake ; lh a t T h ad no t offended wittin g ly ag a in s t a n j law o f S p a in ; lh a t 1 cDuld n o t have expressed any dibloyal opinions, bccauKo I en tfrta io ed n o n e ; an d finally, I c a lk d upon ]iim lo s la te the nûnes o f r a j accusers, a n d (he n a fu rr o f th e charges pi-efcrtod ag s in s t rac. H e «aid, the charges w ere o f th e g ravest k ind , and th e accusers, ^«rsons in whom tlw G overnm ent h ad tho firm est re lian ce ; b u t added, th a t i t was n o t custoiuaiy to satisfy th e accused on Ihese point».

A n exam lnalion th en took place, extrem ely curious, as i t illustiiitca in Ihe m ost strik ing inatiner the general accuracy an d ex len t o f in for* m alion, which th e Spanish police are, o r ra th e r were u n d er llie old syslem , enab led to com m and on certa in su b jec ts ; i t also im pressed roc with liie occasional faUacy o f sU ong circiimuttJulid eridencc, as, in th is ease, a m nltiludc o f triv ial c i r c u G i » t a n c c * , apparen lly led to ono positive conclnsion ; tho irainediale inlèrfucea draw n from Ih c separa te facts were oUen correci, while th e do* due lion from the agg reg :ile w m coniplclely false.

T h e y eT idenlly believed th a t I w as a S paniard ; th a t, ac ting in concert w illi tlie Spanish Conati« tution&l refugees in P o rtu g a l, 1 h ad e n te re d G allioia lo «etab lish communication» w ith tho m alcontenls, an d ascertain th e s ta te o f Uie forts, an d the gen era i dis]>o»i)tlon o f (h e people pro*

>ìou5 to an mvai>ioi3. I was suq )rised a t the degree to wliich m j cnovem ents h ad been ob- sorvod, aTtd (questions w hich I liad ask ed in diQcrcnt p a ii« o f th e couutry, n o ted <lowp iuid eom paicd; and thua a s tr in g o f facts h&d been coUfctcd to g e th e r, an d w ere eom biced w ith ao much iiif'enuitv*« as to estab lish against uio a s trong presum ptiTc caso o f eui^picioo.

T o giTe ray readers aoine conception o f Ibe na tu re o f tliis s ingu lar investi ga t ion, I will insert BOTue o f th e questions a n d rcplios, DWifly as they wore a>)kcd ao d »asw ered ; a t least, as th ey were eom oiitted to p ap er im m ediately a fte r the exarai* nation, when they were »till freyh in m y recollection.

K û ia , Ca])t ain« G eneral. “ A rc you aware th a t you have d istu rbed th e (ranquillitv o f the whole province o f G allicia ? C erta in ly not. I th o u g lit th a t I h ad passed th ro u g h th e jiro* videe w ithout a ttra c tin g fttteolion, o r g iv in g of- feoce to th e A u tho rities b y word o r deed.*'

C ap t.-G enera l.—“ Y ou have Hsaigoed different motive» for your expedition in to SjKitn ; au d have en te red th e k ingdom upon falfw prelcncea."— havo n o t; n o r can you m ake good jo u r assertion."

T lie Captain-1 »eoeral tu rn e d slowly round to one o f tbe officers stan d in g n e a r him , and whisp e red in h is car. T h e oñicer djsajij^cared fo r a m om ent, a u d th e n re tu rn e d with a heap o f papers. £ g u ia selected a few from the file, e^nd resum ed.

L

“ D id Dot yon b rin g a le tte r o f introduction to D o n ------ did."

C a p t-G flQ c ra l-- ‘’A n d to B od ------? ' — “ Idid,"

C ap t*G enera l.— “ T o D o n ------- also, an d toD o n -------“ Yea."

C apt.'G oD eraL— '' D id no t you devlaU frooi the bigh*rocul, a n d croas somo milo» o f difluuU coun* try l43 sec D o n -------?"— “ I ccrtainly duX"

C ap t.-G enera l.— " l i o you ar)cDowle<lgc youi- i£ if lo bav« b een tlie W arer o f a k t t e r to ih it e lfcc t? ’’

U e then rceadextrartfl from a le tte r ad<iroMcd by a gentlem an i n U n g la o d to a Spaniainl. s ta tin g tiia t I watt p roceei^ng to t)io Peninsula to recruit m y h e a lth Id i ts genial clioiato. an d req u cstio g lilrci lo show mo every a t t o n t i o D . — “ I certa in ly brought a le tte r to lh a t though I c a n o o t charge mym em ory witJx the precisc w ords.”

H e then ro ad auothcr, w ritten b y an >2ngU»l2 m erchant a t Oporto. I t sta ted , th a t 1 wa^ on the p o in t o i leav ing th a t c ity to explore the natural beau ties o f Gallicia. an d concluded nearly in theio word»: “ H e in tends t<» rid e through th e w ildest p a r t o f yuur province. 1 wibh h e would defer hU t r p ^ i t i o n t i l l the summer, as Le is m uch too late in th e j c a t lor your snountaine, an d irmst expect b ad w eather an d much havdship ; b u t h e is fond o f CDtcrpxitte a a d neems callous to theac coDsider« a tio n a ''

“ D o ynu fl£l<Dowlc<]^ thulfttcr*?"** I aseeoted.C ap t.-G cnera l.— P erh ap a you will also agree

witL m e th a t tho lAOliTca M fiigoed fo r your jo u rner, in ti»o le tte rs , a re n o t Tcry cod-slstC D tt’'— “ T h is eircumatancc adm its o f evplA* oaiion ."

T h e C ap ta in -G eneral bowc<i. w itli th a t p«culiaT mcliufttion cd the head , which ind icates, what, if expresiivd in worda w uuld be, “ I do ncrt contradict you, Im t allpTv m e to draw my own inference." A n d th en , as if de tc rio ioed to overwhelm m o by tbo Dumber o f m y own confessions, an d b y a m ass of conlracilclory 6ta.t<micnte on th e p a r t o f luy friends, b e p roduced a lhii*d le tte r, which declared th a t m v chief m otive in v isiting Galliiîa was th© desire o f becom ing acquain ted w ith th e rem ains o f a r t sca ttered over the province; th a t I tva» (bod o f S()ani:<h lore, an d shou ld h t g ratified by th ^ s ig h t o f any rccorda w hich th rew l i ^ t upoo th e aocicnat usages o f th e poople. A ibu rlb , a n J last, w as th en sum m oned “ from the vasty deep," which s ta ted , w ithou t any circnm locutioa, Uiat m y in- quirios were cluefly, i f no t exclusively, d irec ted to the actufU s ta te o f tb e couotry.

“ So th a t aocording to th e deposidon o f your fi'iends," the C dptahi*G eneral observed, “ i t a p pears, th a t ill h ea lth whieh h tu forced you from your owo cu u n try ; a th irs t fo r eo terp rise which b aa driven y e a ia to our tnoon ta ijis i the Galli*

l 2

cians ax th o y vrcro. a n d tl ie G h U ic I^ s %t the)* are, h a v e b e e n e a d i succcM iTely d cc la rcd th e p r in c ip a l ol.êcU o f y o u r cxp«d¡tÍOü in to S p a io / ’

I t m u s t 1)0 ro u io a t^d th a t aiicb couflicting s ta te m e n t m a y w e ll Jiavc a p p e a re d e x trc in c l) üu£(d- cioua to p c r w n s «0 u ttc rlv u n a c q u a in lc d w ith E n g l is h habitH a s ih o S p ao iitrd s . T}ie fac t is, th e g r e a te r i « r l o f tliese le t te r s w ere g iv e n ;ae b y tljo m e rc h a n ts o f O |)o rlo , ju s t b e fo re I com* m e n cc d m y G a llic ia n to u r , a n d h s i t ú c u ito m a ry in th e I ’e n io su la t o usa ign som e re a so n fo r travel* H ug, in le t te r s o f iu fro d u e tio n , a l l a lle g e d som o m otive, a n d p ro b a b ly n o t^vo p e rso n s lix c d u p o u th e fcame; cach w ritin |j w b a t o c a ir rc d to Ikiiu a t th e m om en t, o r, w h a t h e th o u g h t m o s t a d a p te d to tl ie ta s te a n d h a b i ts o f h is co rresponden t. E n g lish m e n , accustom ed to roam over o \e ry q u a r te r o f th e g lo b e , a t ta c h U ltle im p o rta n ce to tiie reason» w hich induce a m a n to u n d e r ta k e any e x p e d itio n h o w ev er d is ta n t, o r fo re i» ^ to th e o id in a ry ro u te o f trav e lle rs . B u t th e S pau la itl, w ho nev e r e n te rs o n a jo u i-n e j w ith o u t Ix a v io ^ a specific a u d p o rso u a l ob jec t in view, becom es very susp ic ious o f h td d e o ao d u lte r io r projeclfl, i f th e re b e any Inconsis tency in th e o s te n s ib le m o tiv es uf th e exped ition .

T h o C aptain* G ener« ! co n tin u ed . “ V o u lia v e ehosen a n e x tra o rd in a ry tim e o f th e y e a r to r a m b le o v e r o u r m o u n t^ n -d is tr lc ls .”— “ 1 h a d

HO op tio n w ith reepoct to litne , as 1 m u st sliortly re tu rn to L isb o n .'

O ap ta in -G cn cra l — " V e t w hile jo u travelled throaffh days o f routin iied ra in to v isit obsexire places, tb a t c o d d possess uo in te re s t in your eye*, excopt in a po litical jw in t o f \iow , you neglectcH oVêtta Inghly in le re s tirg to an anti* quArian. o r to a m an o f taste . F o r instance, you d id Tiot v isit th is very apartm en t.”

N ow th a t aucliencc-room was cerUnnly fine and well p ro jw rtioncd , b u t h ad no particu la r at* tractions to a m an wbo h a d wandoi'ed am ong the palaces o f E u ro p e till h e waa tired o f th e ir vtjry nam es, an d h ad seen apartm cD ls iranieaHnvaljly g ra n d e r tluu i th e uue in question. H ow ever, I should no t have advanced m y iu leresls b y m orti- lyinjf Spanish p ride , so policy liop t uio silen t, an d 1 g a re n o n ile rance to the iJiOOght which n a tu

rally arose in m y iQind.B u t a lthough hia allusion to th a t particu lar

room waa founded on th a t little vanity w hiih often induces m en to overrate objects in an y way connected wiQi them selves, tlie re w as b o th tru th an d shrew dni'ss in th e general observation. T h e d i^ ire o f becom ing ar<ûainted w ith tb e tictual s la te o f th e eountry induced m e lo underlake the cxpedilion . and 1 constan tly d e v ia u d front tho h igh-road to commnnicAte w ith persons for whom

1 h&d tetters. Aod to ubt&in t h e desired infuricim> tion. A s th e E n g lish a t O porto « e ro prlnclpallj ccmnectcd w ith th e L ib e ra l p a r ty in Spain, my }ctl(r« w ere often &d<]r(*sM'd to individuals, oa I »flerw ards fonnd. ■notoriously disaffcctcd to tlie G overn m o n t: a circum stance which d id no t p re ju d ic e m y inquirió«, as I tuade allowance fo r th « n a tu ra l bios o f tuy iiiform ants, a n d iK^& inc ac> i)uain ted , th ro u g h th e ir m eans, w ith persons of d iíF t'ron t O p in io n s ; h u t i t was c m in c ritlv c a k u lsx Jc d

to e x d te th e jcaloony o f tlie ¡»olice, IT iey s o o b

diacovercd tlw t in y inquiries were generally di- rectx^d to political m a tte rs ; an d i t appeared , ia th e ir eyes, h igh ly iiT t|irobah lc , th a t I should en counter 8D m uch troub le for th e sole pu rpose of becom ing m inutely acqixaioled w ith the ac^tual «rtafe o f po litira l fbeUng io Spain. T liey accordin g ly solved th e diiCculty, b y conclndi-ng th a t I •wiw ono o f th e m any em issaries >vho h a d lately traT tTscd GalUcia w ith secrct insti-uotiona from th e ex iled C oostitu tionalists. H av in g once d e cided upon m y vocation, th e y soon fitted m e with an id en tity , as »>11 appear in tlic sequel. B u t to resum e th e eaianilnation:—

C a p t-G e n e ra l—“ Y our inqu irios were everyw here o f & po litical na tu re . D id no t you pay g re a t attentioD to th e dock-yards a t F o rro l ?“ I ccrlain ly b eh e ld th a t g roa t na tional work w it i

ecQfli(lermblc in te re s t In tb e eyes o t « S p an iw d 9ucb a a adm bsion can, 1 ihitik, b e pw judiciiil t e DO roaQ. ’

— " B i d you n o t exam m e mi- nuto)y tb e fortifications o f L u g o ? ”— A t L u g o I

e«rtaiiily w alked ro u n d tb e ram p arts an d exam ined some aoc icn t m asonry, b u t w as accomj»*' ijicd h y the G overnor o f tb e town- T b c presence o f an offiecr, filling so h ig b a p ost u n d e r tb« Ci'own, o u g b t surely io barc“ îrolectcd m e froos any tojuriuus suaploone,"

E g u ia looked anno) cd a t Ibi* rem ark , b u t le t i t pas« A fte r a m om entftry pau se h e contxmicd. “ W ere you n o tjo io c d a t C orunna b y a dork Toan wbo ttccom|«,tticd you to tb e dock*yard, an d dep a rted a fte r a sccret consultation w itb yon f B id b e no t also call h im self an E n g b s h F id a lg o ? Some years bavc clapKsd e»nce any foreign noble has b een in Gallicia. I s i t p robab le tlia t t» « should m eet ace id cn t^ ly a t tb c sam e tim e, a t th e sam e pbice, an d proceed to g e th e r to exam ine one o f c u r s tro n g b o ld s?" — “ I c&nnot say w hetber eucb an event b e probable, b u t tbu s i l acTOallyoccurrod. M y frien d L o rd C------ was driven in toC orunna by S tre s s o f weatbcr, d a r in g m y rta y in tb a t town, an d b e in g desirous o f seeing F o rro l wc jo ined p a rtie s an d proceeded to tb a t po rt. 1 rem em ber no secre t consultation. W c certainly d in ed to g e th e r after o o r »i*il lo th e arsenal, but

every w ord tliae passed betw een ue m ig h t Iiave l»ecn tqjorU?d to th e G ovurnm cnl w ith m y e n t'm consent."

C apt.-G C Trm l.— “ W ere you n o t u rg ed by some friends on board the stcam -boat lo proceed L isbon b y th a t conreyancc, an d d id you not answer, th a t you should like i t well, as you wcro <ired o f travelling in b ad w eather, b u t ib a t you m u st positively sec G ijon, an obscure place a t a g re a t d istance from Coi-uniia, <iifficult o f access, an d po9scs.shig no iiU erest oi' coosidoration, except in a p a r tiru la r p o in t o f v iew ; or. to speak m ore vlcarly, except an a place o f dcsccnt on the coast

I have explained lo the read e r m y rcasoti ibr w ishing to see G jjo n ; to th e C fiptaio-G cueiul I m ade n o reply.

C a p t.-G e n c ra l.- . '-D id n o t you engage a pas- sago in ft small vessel bound to G ijon, in apito o f ih c earnest rem onstrances o f )o u r friends ? AVHen th e B ritish Consul cam e d o n n to the in n an d a t tem p ted to dissuade you from so rasli a n uoder- taVmg, did you n o t reply th a t you were \xn \t on seeing G ijo n ; a o d wore you n o t solely Iruslro tcd b y a continuance o f adverse an d feinpt'sruous w inds? C an you assign an y reason fo r this extraordiDory conduct?"

T was ra th e r a t a loss for a reply , a t len g th I said.— “ I wished to see A s tu ria s ; it is the only Spanish province l h a v e no t s«*en.'’

CH. V I . ] TRIVÜNAI. OF IHK I'OUCK. '¿ '4^

ICapt.*G eneral.—~“ Par»loniüe, Señor; jo u h a v e

s ta te d in formei' convcrBations th a t you have never been in IZstruToadur»."

1 was really tb tonU hed a t thí» instance o f the Captdlii-CJenei'arB lo lnu te iuforinatiork.— “ Y our ExceDcncy is rig h t,” 1 rep lied , '• a n d s e e m to possess a n io ie di«lÍnL*t recollection o f m j move« tnentE th an 1 do m y self. I believe I bavo n<5T<*r been io l¿(»treuiadura."

Capt.*Gcneral.*— Y o u adm it th a t you were in S pain som e lim e ago. l ‘*ay nam e th e |» r io d .” — “ D u rin g the years 1821 an d 1822."

T h e Captaln-C icneral observed, th a t th e ir sus* picIooK were now contjrm ed, and aeqnain ted me, for th e first tícnC) w itb th e ex ac t n a tu re o f the fbfirgvs \ipon whicli I Iiad been arrested . I t ap peared, lh a t A g e n tle u a o o f th e nam e o f G h a d taken an ac tire p a r t in tlic csccsees committed by th e Constitiitionaljfits d u rin g those years, and, a fte r the fall o f tlxo C oosiitu llon in lh2î, h ad placed h im self a t th e h ead o f a b au d o f partisans an d bfid parried on a <Iespemte s lru g g le in the mouaiaioB, whence h e h a d u ltim ate ly cffw 'ted h ís esca|>c. l i e was ab o u t loy own age, a iid some real o r fancied resem blance in uiy person to tlia tO hief liad given rise to the belief th a t CJ------ liadre-en tered Spain, p re ten d in g to be a a Knglish* man.

T hi» idea xâs com m unicated to the police, whoL 3

aV ead j Tiowcd m y inovcm cnts w ith susptcioQ.T h e y coDscquentW mAde some peasants, who **v h ad seen th e C hief in quoetlon, c o tc r an irm ^ w here T was over th e k itchen fiTt*, address -» « , an d olwerv*« m v features niirrowly. Tlie«c œ eo re tu rn ed lo th e ir omplovers under th e full h e lie f th a t I was the identical m an. T h c it 4e- posrtions w ere tran sm itted to th e C iovernm ent s t S a n tia j^ , wliirh im m cdiateW for\>ardt*d instree- ^ tion^ to th e au thorities a t L ng o to a rrest m e on ray arrival a t th a t town an d send m e to th e ^ cap ita l o f the province.

T h e C ap ta in -G eneral th en re a d le tte rs from several indix'iduals, whose nam es lie »rould ne t dÙKlusc, h a t who a ll coacurrcd in suspcctin» tbc m otives o f m y journey , ao d strongly advised my arrest, I d is ^ v e re d somo o f th o w riters from, p a rticu la r cireum stanecs to which th ey a lh idod ; an d percelvcd w ith reg re t, (h a t in several in* stancee th ey w ere persons from whom I h ad re- ecived g rua t a ttention.

E g u ia dw elt much on m y resem hlanoe to the S p a n ia rd s ; the colour o f m y hair an d eyes; th e .* darkness o f m y comph*x»on : my g enera l m anners, *Aod even m y habits, ho said, wore purolv Spanish.1 p lead ed in ojij)Obition, m y foreign accent and im pcrfcct know ledge o f th e ^paa isli language.H e adm it led m y plea, b u t ohaeivod th a t these w ere po«iiivcly the only eircum« lances w hich '

fevoured m y claim Oo i s E vgH sh orig in , s « l bciTig easily ffig o ed .'b u t BUgktly m ilita te d ^ a ic L « th e m a ts o f evidence ac^nmadated oo th e o tb r t sid«. H o th en d e c la r e d h ï^ conw rreoce in the g e n e r a l bcUcf, a n d » I r e n g th e n e d k ia final aTgu> o cn tB b y »pccific alltision* to th e Spam »h length , an d Vrcftdth, an d Wa<*krcw o f m y w hisken- H c a rin g royBCif d c a c r ib e d as to ta lly amliko «ny countrym en, a n d r a th e r n e ttle d a t tb o rem ark , I said, pei'haps id ly , t l ia l ! h ad only one olieerva- tio n lo m a k e . 'J 'hc G e n e r a l d id n o t b e a r m e : bu t the Police, in tlte tru e « p i r i t of c x a ^ e ra tio f l , im m édiat oly in fo rm e d him th a t I h ad som ething to reveal, and he, witU an eqjaal rcedine»g o f appro- hcnston, suppoaod th a t 1 was on the e r e o f m akin j a fu ll arow al o f m y crimes. H e waved h is h an d to th e p c riuns su rround ing the tabic, to r e t ire ; a signal xrhich th ey m ost rc luetan tly obeyed, only ia llin g hack a« fa r as th e door, tliey atoodeag er to caleh exery svliable o f th e forthcom ing eonfrasion. T h e C aptai n-G cneral, well pleased lh a t h is oratory liad a t Icnifth p re ra ilcd , and fully expectin ij aonie m igh ty divulgcm ent, b e n t forw ard wHh a m ost encouraging air, saying, th a t bo w onki listen ¡uvtiently to every p a r tic u la r ; the police fixed th e ir eyes io tcn lly ripoD m e ; Ei>c notarié* resuined tlie irp c n a , and a b rea th lo i^ ftilonec prevailed . B u t when I waa coropelled to i*cpcat

th o tri£ in g o b se n ation ivhicli liad given b irth l6 w ell h ig h ra ised expeoU tione, a n d v lu c h in taet w as only th a t E n g lish men h a d long , andb ro ad whiskers, in common w ith th e rcb t o f man- k in d , th e am ueeroont o f th e spectators an d the displeasure and disappoin tm ent o f tlxe authoriti«« w ere n u ly ludicrous. A titte r , rep ressed ooly b y the awe in which th e C ap ta in -G en era l mid tho Police w ere he ld , ran round th e aparlioen t, while E g u ia drew h im self n p w ith a Biost ind ignaet grow l, Tastly annoyed a t th e pom pous dism issal o f th e speetatoTB, an d a t all the solem n proceedin g s which h a d ushered in such a lidiculous declaration. T lu j circum stauce a t once p u t an cud to th e cxam joalion, whieh h ad la s ted two houi*s.

I re ta in e d to th e inn, w here T rem ained under surveilU oce, an d was v iiIted in th e eTening h j the T ntcndant o f tlio police, who comujiinicuted to me E g u ia ’fi final decision. H e h ad determ ined to send an exprosa to M r, B artle tt, the B rilish C onsul a t C orunna, d csiiin g lum to s ta te w hether h e could positire ly assure the G overnm ent th a t I was a na tive o f G re a t B ritain , an d th e person whom I prufessed in y te lf to h o ; an d w hether h e wwild guaran tee th e legitim ary o f the olyeets 1 h ad in view in v isitin g Spain. T hu In te n d a n t added, th a t in eonbideratioD o f the ra n k I m ig h t possibly }>e found to possess, E g u ia would, in the nivan lime.

« ily rtfCûire m y p aro le <*f honour^ an d iLe public ftppcATanec o f eomt? friend, as fiador, who would b e held rw ponsib le fo r m y prcacocc in th o city.

D u rin g m y cxaiaination the C ap ta in -G en era l liad rp<iu«sted m e to nam e Ihc pci’soiis rcfcidcnf a t Santiago to whom 1 h ad delivered lo ite rs ol* introduction. I was cm bari’a^.scd b y th o question, because 1 fe lt th a t, in th o ocûivcKJrtl position in wldch 1 th en stoixl, 1 could hard ly nam e aii indiv idua l w ithout involving luin iu the* suq)icioQ tl ia i a ttttfhod to myBcU* A m om ent’s rottoction, however, convinced m e tlia t the question wag only ask<id to »wccrtftin w hether I slioulA a ttem p t to pracliM; any deception. T h e Pohce b a d k o p t so v ig ilan t an e) 0 on a ll m y m ovem ents, th a t they could n o t fad o f know ing th e persons w ith whom 1 h ad associated, an d \*ould ccrtain ly have imp u te d criirunal m otives lo my friends, from any a ttem p t on my p a r t to conceal tbo ir nam es. I ihereforc m entioned somo, an d am ong others, D o n L ou is B'

W hen the Secretary ha<l com m unicated fo m e tb o Captain-G encraV a decision, h e requested me to accom pany him to D o n Luuib 's b o u s e ; w here a g rcatj and , ap|>areully, a very d isagreeable scnsa* tio n waa p roduced b y the appearance o f tlio Sc* cvetajy o f th e police. T lio se rvan t who o^wned th o door, in stead o f showing u s to th e apartm ent

w here h e r m aatcr y n s s ittin g , re tre a te d in mo«t adrnircii d isorder, loHvin^ ue io a d i r k lomiike th e bo«t o f our xm y in to th e parlour.

D o n Louis, wlio w<ib traosacting husincca, d ropp ed som e po |)crs froin h k Kftnd> id th e alarm and •u rp h » e excited by th e a b ru p t en trance o f the d read ed functionary, and th e «(rangers* who >?ero w ith h im liastily g lided o u t o f <be room, i i i s ap prehensions w ere no t dim inished b y a perem ptory o rd er (o giTc o p h is p ap e rs , a n d par(ictilarly to produco the le tte r he had received from me. D oa X/Ouis p laced th is T ah tah k docum etit in th e hands o f th e Secretf t r y , who exam ined i t earcfully, and becom ing in som e degree rcM Sured b y the harirk less n a tu re o f its coti(eQta, ioform ed him o f the circum stancrs undyr which I liad been a rre s ted ; an d asked him w hether h e won Id become my Fia<ior, arid p ledge h im self fo r m v appearance any m unjco t th a t th e C ap ta in 'G en e ra l m ig h t re qu ire in y presence. H e sa id th a t, in defau lt o f such an avi’angem ent, it svould b e necessary to k eep m e in s tr ic t confinement. T h e o ld m an conse n te d , and m y situation becaaie m ore to lerable. I t is tn ie . tb a t a police ofTkei' was always stationed a t th e door o f th e inn, an d regu larly ga'*c n o liw to some o f h i & b re th re n whenever 1 left th o liousc- T h e y followed m e th ro u g h a ll m y w andsringf, k eep in g th e ir eyes confttantly upon me, bu t with*

CIH.Tl.] SA ITIAGO. 231

o u t t n j ftctÍTC interference, an d rem ainm g to Ttr th a t I becam e at Jengch alm ost hidiftcront

to such a m itiga tod strrm llaoce .D uring th e rem ainder o f th o tim e I b]>ent a t

SftTitiago 1 was trea ted w ith tb e u tm o st Icindncaa h j |)<m L ouis a n d h is son, and passed m a n > plcft- ta n t hours in th e ir fam ilv circle. D u rio g m y prcTious TÍsit to tlia t city, th o incessan t ra in had le ft upon m y T oind a very unfavoum ble im pression o f th e su rrounding « rc n c ry ; b u t m y oploioo was «»mpletely clum ged » h e n I saw it u n d er the magical lufiuciiec o f a cloudless sky. L ik e th e conntcnance o f a p ro tty child, th a t ro un try should be seen, no t in te a rs , b u t in its lau g h in g hours< I t cannot bo&dt o f those s tr ik in g fea tu iee w hich W ain tho ir g ran d eu r u n d er every flnctualion <rf the atmofiphere, b u t lias a ll those sofler cliarms, which rivet th e eye, w hen clad in sun* shine, though to ta lly lo s t i n the m ists o f a stonny day. T h e tb rcg round is varied, an d boauti- f illy uodulaled , and th e view ie tero>inafed b y a range o f b lu e m ountains which rise bo ld ly in tl»e distance. 1 w andered alm ost evory m orning to a picCuro6<]\ie quarry , w here I sa t enjoying th e prospcct. til l I perceivod th a t m y occupations were rainutelv ol>ser\'ed, upon w ldch 1 deserted my Asvourite spor, rccollePting th a t even inan im ate rocks m ust no t b e loo m uch inspected in troub led thnos; “ e h a m stuea toquuntur''

'I'he dom ioiun o f the w&s tîcn ftbsolat^« t Skfid I wftA to ld fhftt t}i9 out\r&niiadicatlona o f rcligtCHis SccUn^ iiad la tte rly in. ctcbsckI. S e fo ie the rcTolution <)f iK^n. facdon w as a» iccp ; th e C hnrfh and h e r 'partisans were n o t aware th a t th o g ro u o d \ipoo wlttch th ey stood w as underroincd, an d th a t th e an<nent instilulion* o f ilie lan d wore tictnallv nodd ing to tVicJr fall.

I 'h e evenla o f the fo llo w n g years opened ih d r c'Tes; th e facility w ith which tlic old (»ovcnimonfc ^vas overlliruwn, an d the -evident iu teu tion of th e C onstitu tionalists, d u iin g th e ir day o f power, n o t to reform, b u t to ex term inate the priesthood, ATvaliened th e ir inm ost fears, an d roused an im> p W a b k ppirit o f rcngeance. T h e y n a tu ra lly suppoaed th a t th e ir existence, an a body posst»«- in g r ig h ts defined au d reeojnnscd b y Uie stiite, cuuld only h e secared b y rooU ng ou t every v estige o f princip les i^spuused h v a p a rty whose hoBtility to th e ir in te re s ts w as so deadly an d iin- roiDpromising. H vcn llie tnodcra le p a rtisan s o f th e C hurch, d istru stin g h e r actual s tre n g th and conscious o f th e gi'cat tliough la te n t danger, en tw ed w arm ly in to th e m easures adop ted for h er <lef*ence; while h e r inoro h ea ted an d en terpriw uf' adheren t» fell Into the erro rs o f ati ag e gone by. revived the ex|)loded d o d rin e , th a t men should h e p iw r ib e d , n o t m erely fo r th e ir actions, bu t for th e ir opinions, an d lo«dly ca lled fo r the r«*

gH. TI .3 DOwiMO.N OF T liK rliL frrs, 2lt3

eétablishm cnt o f th e Inqui*iticm, as th e only en g in e which could enable them to carry th o ir g ian l whem cs in to com plete operation. A n d ye t, how- c v r rc x a g g o r t tc d th e xiews e n te rta in ed b y some o f th e priesthood, t l ie j were, a'í a bodv, engagcKÍ io a war oTsvlf presovvatlou, no t o f aggreseioo.

T h e profrress o f C oo»titutional principle«, and the im m inent d an g er in which tho Chxirch was placed, d u rin g th e revolution o f 1S22, h ad the sam e eflect upon th e ir c le rgy whioh tlie growth o f the d issen ting in t t r c s t h as in Bome degree proJnced on om*s. 'I'hoir extfrtions to obtain influence over tlie people w ere never so g rea t an d sustained, as siuce th ey fell tlie danger o f losing i t en tire ly ; an d in m any p a r ts o f tbe country , th e ir labours were a t th a t tim e rew arded b y a propoYÜonable iocreasc o f KecJous fueling.

I n S a n t l ^ o itse lf th e rites o f pul)lic worililp b ad never been so solem nly perform ed, tlie pro* cessionu sa frequt^nt an d in term inable, o r the TOKO o f p ray er so continual in tlie s tree ts , as Tv'ithin tlie tw o yearn p rrv ious to iny a rr iv a l A u d effectively, u ltliough the H ig h CliurcU p a rty failed in th e strugg le , th e n c a n n in g on, io g a in a com plete asocndency over the Crown, th e ir power was a t th is tim e inord inately g ro a t iu tb e pro« ylnces. axid frequently oveishadow ed th e civil authority.

T ilia p ecu liar s la te o f th in g s m ay be well ill us-

tr s le d b j a l i ttle circmnstancc. 1 w&s w alk )l^ QOC n o rn iD g h i tho io>ui edible enTirons o f ^sq> t i s ^ ^ w itli a a i o t e l l i ^ c D t y o ung Sp& nikrd; lie bad L eea disctjssiog poUtica.1 q u c s tio u w ith g rea t ir« )dotn ; b e b ad aDudcd w ith r e g re t lo tlic fall o f tb c ConfiCitutioD; l»e h ad mcntioDcd in terma o f im bounded censure th e ac tual systeai o f go* vernm ent, au d b ad even bpuken xritb contum ely o f tb c form idable Jilguia. 1 happened , Id tbe coar»e oi’ convttTBatlon, to auk Iujd w hether b e did no t tb in k th a t som e o f tbc* rvils wbich afHicted S pain m ig h t be ultiirrateiy tiAoed to the celibacy o f the clergy. W e w ere walking a t thf» m om en t b u t b e sto |ipiid a b ru p tly wbon 1 p u t thi& q u c f t t i^ ; k ia face becam e flushed an d he ac tuallv trem bled , b u t quickly reeo rc rin g h im eelf kc answered, “ I f the C a p ta in 'G e n e ra l a a d tb e Poboc knew th a t 1 h a d &9&ented to sucb n jiroposiiion. tlic lowest an d d a rk es t dungeon in tb e c itv would no t be low o r d a rk euo u g b fo r me." Y e t tiu s m an. wh* tre a te d th e g en e ra l sjsCcm o f civ il governm ent, ao d &VC11 the ac tual xutborities, w ilb open cun* tem pt, trem bled a t tb c id e a o f b e in g suppoeod to cafit th e s lig h te s t doub t, oycn in th e m ost io* d ire c t m anner, upon any p a r t o f tb e practice o f th e Church.

l i u t i f the S pan ish clergy, w rith ing im dcr a b itte r sense u f unprovoked an d rccen t persecution, ivcrc s tru g g lin g to re ta in th e ir e iup lio over the

ipífids o f m en b p mean* no t th o g c tb e r su ited to th e to leian f « p in t u f th e m^ê; S p a in s l ib e ré politicians, am ong th e lower, an d o flen am ong tb c m idd ling classes, « e ro fa r Wb< advanced in Ihc career o f ('H riatian charily th an th e calum n ia ted m cm bw s o f the C hurch , an d frequently cn ttrtftincd notion* o f rrlig iou* to lera tion , well su ited to th e day* o f th e second P h ilip .

D om ocratic opinión* are n o where m ore ex trem e th a n am ong th e S pan ish lib e ra ls ; b u t in DO coun try i* l l u i phU osophj o f f re e d c«i, civil or Teligiom , le ss uuderatcxid. I rem em ber ta lk in g to a libera! In V alcn tia ab o u t th e In q u io d o n . ag a in s t w hich h e declaim ed w ith a tru ly patrio tic energy. T h a t »Lstitution was m ost annoy ing , be sa id , from iU iu lcrference w ith tb e freedom o f p riv a te life. “ I h a te oppression in any s h a p e ” h n continued , “ T am a friend to the hum an race 5 if, in d ceJ , tbc»e bo a Jew am ong u*, bTrrn h)m , I say . b u m him a b y e ; b u t io lerference %ritb honest m en lik e you an d m e, on account o f our opinion*, is beyond c n d o ra n ee .”

S uch barbarous a n d g ro tesque discrepancies betw een the m ost in to le ran t pi-actice. an d a p ro f e s ió n o f th e m ost lib era l opinions, a re , o f course, am ong th e h ig h er o rd er o f Spanish liberals, corrected b y g rea ter inform ation an d g re a te r knowledge o f th e w orld ; b u t tb e sam e n tte r ndscon- ception of th e re a l princip les o f to lera tion a c tn a t«

th e ir conduct. T h e law , io thcJr opinion, ghouM, in ihcory, bo equally applicab le to all ¡Jarticsj h a t lo ac t on th«? jm n H p lc wf adm inittloring the fiamc m easure o f jufllice to th e opponent, tA to th e friend o f th e p revailing |)oHcv> to th e Carli»!, a s to th e Q ucciiite, w ould bo i*epi*obafed as an ind ication o f positive wcakncbSt or, niorp pro. hab îy , resen ted as a j>roof o f covert treason. T lie no tion o f im pailiftl dea lin g hclw ccu naan aod m an, w ithout reference to th e po litical opitdons h e m ay c b te r tû n , i*, in th e ir c jc* , a practic^J m istake, a ttrib u tab le only to incapacity o r col* Insion.

B u t 1 was speak ing o f th e efFocti and ex ten t o f th e clcrical influcnct;, o f which, even in uiy own exam ination bufore th e C ap ta in -G eneral, T por- ocived aomo Iracc«. I w as rcaiin tied o f some question*, which I hail certain ly asked, b u t re* iQomhcred Jistinctly hav ing only p n t them to one lodividnol, who, I have ovcry reason to believe, coinoiunicfttod them to the p riest, b y Tphom they were tran sm itted to fh e police. I do no t ficeuse th e Spanitth c lergy o f v io latiog th e saci'ed tru s t reposed in them a t th e confcwional—o f th is I am su re th ey a rc incapable—b u t I da th in k they ftftcn p ersuade th o ir p en iten ts to m ake, o r a t leas t to sanction, any revelations th e C hurch m ay deem e x p e d ie n t; and th is courbo 1 th ink is pu rsued s till m ew where women ai*e concerned W hen

tbc devotional fueling is atrongW iffp re^scd on th e m tnà ol* a fa ir Spaniard, i t supersedes every o ther, oven tlic Jecp-xootcd pasaion o f lo7C ; b u t th is excess o f te a l i» cHiefly found in th e rem oteprovinces.

Under tlie influeocc o f ih h c iigrossing passion the chftTEkcter o f llie Spanisli «om au bocoioes altogellioT chfingcd. I f once j>ersuadod th a t the ntan she lovos is conspiring agaiiw i tb c Church, every avenue to h er h ea rt, Ih a l woll ot* deop and inexhaustib le feeling, is closed a t once against h im ; an unw orthy by stem o f deception, th e olf- sp r in g o f afalM?, b u t no t o f a debased principle, Is su b stitu ted fo r h e r form er siocerity ; she bolicv-es th a t h e r ow r, tlm t h is salvation, th a t the im m ortal weal o f thousands whom hie m achinations may endanger, iiDpcriouttly ri?quir«‘ h er to sacrifice every ¡>ei'sonal fee lin g ; to dive in to liift inm ost tho u g h ts for the purpose o l b e tray in g them , and to treasu re up, an d aftcrw aid» I 'cv ca l every careless word b rea th ed in th e hours o f d d lian ce , or d ropped in th e u n g u a rd ed m om ent o f pow erful

uiDotlon.D u rin g tl»e civil w ar th e re w ere instances o f

women, m isled b y th e ir p h ren a icd a ttachm en t to th e C hurch , who actually receiTcd U ieif unwary adm irers In th e wafDi em brace o f love, an d even in th a t h o u r o f reciprocal passion, d ea lt the Catal blow w ith a firm h an d , b u t an agonised lieart.

T lir te r e m a r k s o n lj »ppl)' to tlio*« Tolcanic dia- poftxtioDs, still, t h o u ^ b u t occasionally, found io part;« o f Sp^D , over which rcJig ioa exerciscs t e r c io s t fenMic fway, an d to ihoê p a rticu la r ca e « in wbich fhc safety o f tho C h u rth is c o n s id e r^ by th e im pauiioiicd Tulaross as iiDpcrioualy opposed to t i e dictiUes o f tho h ear I. G enera lly bpuakia^, love an*i relig ion aro tw in s iste rs in Spain, and acford extrem ely w ell: in E ngla,nd. th a t lan d o f p u re reUgioo, a m ao o f p leasu re ondcavouring ta eugago tlie atfeclions of a m a n ic d ^TulnEm &ystem- atically undern iioes every sacred imj>i*ession, and keeps ou t o f s ig h t all llia t eao possibly promot# relig ious zeal. I n Spain. Iio a tta inu h is objoct by a d iiferen t co u rse ; ro l ig b n is too often m ade subserv ien t to h is viewa, h e frequen ts l i e holy ivs- U i^ ls w hkL she a ttends, th e deep devotion o f h « sjjirit Uvos upon h is l ip s ; and i f hu pannoi kneel b y h er side io th e lo n g aialc. a t le a s t s h e Icnows, too well, th a t lus eye is upon her- Spanish dovo. tion is oftun « t i ro d in g;loomy colours, I luive seen th e an tiqua ted dam es o f M urcia solemnly p a c in g th e public w alks o f th e ir c ity w ith UUlo »courges a tfached lo th e ir drcsss an d kno tted ter th o purpose o f aelf lo rlu re . B u t th e ir ia i(h i t som etim es clad i d a lig h i and b rillian t Uvcry; • 'la Teligion, Camour, le y a r /u n e t les /ly u n ,'' all m ingling in one flowvi^ Hut delusive jjalK

Before I rcli«ve ray reader* iio ra any fu rtbcr

Dtcntion o f ctiy OtkUidao advenlurCi l ^ U 6 t ootice an incirfunt, u jauaportan t in itself, \>ut c u r io iu lj iH ustrating tlie v i^ U n c c o f llie SpADwh police, and ihe io lenso aru ren ess o f tlioir obserTfttiona is di»tur1>cd limes. A s l!ic In d ia n discovers th e recent. fboUtcp» o f an enem y, on wa«tc« tliU îpCftT abso lu tely traokleas to less g ifted oyes, so th e Spanish police foUow tiusir p rey Ly indie«* tion 6 so fa in t an d in frequen t, a« wholly to escape the perci?ptioa o f 1c«b p ractised m ind«. I have already said th a t on m y fin*t a rriv a l a t L u g o , I U»ok som e relVebhmont io a sm idl tavern t i tbe enlTUicc o f the lo w n ; th e b ill V cing very mode« ra te , an d kavitig no am all clunge< I gave th« w aiter as m uch fo r him aeli as th e d in n er bad cost. T h e m an casually ad v erted to th e drcum - stance b ^ r o an a g e n t o f the poJiec, whiiec curiosity waa exc ited b y a s ta te iitcc t th a t would have a ttrac ted n o alton fion from any o ther iodi* vidoal. H e slirew dly rem arked , th a t th e act. tritliiig as i t m ig h t appear, was ra th e r the aeC o f a gentlem an th a n o f th e little trad e rs « b o tra velled a long th a t road , an d p u t n p a t tlxe iua . H o knew lliAt th ey were well acquain ted with the cxact p roporlioa which shou ld subbist betwccB tbe am o u n t o f tlia bill, an d tb o paym ent o f tbe w aiter, an d would no t h a re been indttced, by any a c c td c D ta l eircumBtanocs. to have given a fraction beyond neecssacy sum . U n d e r th is impres*

» b n h e en te red th e tavcn i, sea ted h im ie lf op . pofcilc to me, sci utinixcd m y m ovcioente, oheervod m y geoem i niRnncr, an d s o o d becauie oonvinced th a t I wua th e ind iv idual uho;^c u))pearaQcc had beeo dcsciibed u> tfw PojUe, an d wJioiu th ey had bcco lo ö g expecting. l i e ¡^m ed ia te ly w m m u. nicaieti lo h is superiors lilt? reeu lt o f h is obserr» . tiona, an d I wa» in coosequcnce a rrested d u rin g tiie enbuing night.

1 rem e m b er se e io g a s im ila r Jobtanec o f exU em e su b tle ty io th o p o licc , d u r in g a s t i l l m o re d is tra c te d p c iio d , fo r a t sucli tim e s ev e ry faûUy ia qn iokoned to a w o n d c rM e x le n t b y a n ac tive a a d p e r p t iu a l sen s« o f im j>ondiug d a n g e r , D u rin g tb e g re a t n o r tb e rn in fiu rrection io I S lS I w alked fro m I ru n to F o n U ra b ia ; a o d e n te r in g tlin tow n ex p lo re d if, a n d , b e in g a s u s u a l m is lak en ibr a S p an ia rd , w as u n io o le s ted b y a n y q u es tio o s. I m ig h t th e n b a v c re tra c e d m j s lt 'p s n u su sp e rtiid , b u t w ish in g to o b ta in a fu lle r view o f th e g lorious p ro sp e c t b e fo re m e, I endcBTOured to app roach th o e d g e o f t l ie clift*, w hich w as se p a ra te d from m e h y a low w all, B e in g ex tre m ely sh o rt-s ig h te d I ^ d n o t im m ed ia te ly p erce ive a b reach , th ro u g h w hich I t w as p erfec tly e a sy to p ass , b u t w en t to tb e h e a d o f th e w all a n d sk ir te d i t dow nw ards t i l l I rea ch ed th e a p e r in ro . T h is circu itous p ro cess w as observed b y a n officer o f tb e police, who m s ta n tly concluded t h a t I %vas u n a c q u a in te d w ith

iho plftco, conaequMitly a. »tranjrcr, and . Uierfifbro, ft siupieious character. H e jo in ed loe, en te red In to coni’ersa ticn , and finally ^ v c mo u p lo tlic A ulhorities, b y whom I w as oxaioined, an d sent bitck lo I r u D a n d e r an eitcort.

B u i b x | 0tu m to m y narrative. W Hile I r e m ained a t ^ u U a ^ in ih b s ta te o f partia l f re e ' doin, I was one day v isited b y a S pan iard dressed in a naval uo ifonu , an d apparen tly a profe'^Hionai m a a H e said, th a t Ixappening to lodgu m llin ftantc house, an d hav ing h ea rd Jliat an K oglish- m ab o f ra n k was deiainecl u n d er vexatious cir- cuiOaUiaces, he h ad th o u g h t liim $elf bound in courtesy to call upon m e, an d mako m e a frov* lender o f hi» scrvioee. W c convcrBed fo r aouie tim e o n g enera l su b je c ts ; h is appearaiicc wa^ h ighly prepod4et»«lDg: Id s m anners h ad th e coQr* tcay an d d isdnetioo o f hig-h b i r l h ; h e was em inently handsom e; h ts tino d a rk eyes often kindL'd w ith eiithusiaem . and a s trong tin g e o f rom ance |>frvadod a ll h e said, an d seem ed in h e ren t in his character. ITo showeti m e som e verseg lo a lad v ; Terseg fu ll o f iire a u d Icoling, w hich h e h ad aj)* P & ren tly just composed, for th e in k was scarcely d iy . H e dwelt, w ith an em phasta th a t w as irre> sistib ly comical, upon e re ry e jiithc t saered to th e Jûlcine* o f liis slrtdn, fo r whom h e sceined to feel a cluTalrous deTOtion, the tru e love of the m iddle ages, w hich could n o t to lurato any com-

H

p e titio n w ith th e olgeot qS it» id o U tr ; . l i e wm a g«nuioe claild o i fumftoce. f<yt ecg^foesed by th« id e a o f his ab ccn t viistrcs», a n d Im rriod on b j hia p oelic ftrdour, \ui n ev er once reflected oa th o singular ap|>ear&ru:e fvMch such unusoal fr&nkncDS o f eomrounicaCion iro u ^ a pecfeet s tra n g e r m u st }i&tu }iad in m j «j c c Such was th e ap p a ren t character o f th e m an ; b u t I wiQ n o t conceal from m j readers th a t a sh ad e of suspicion re«pccCing th e re a l object o f liis tisH occasionallj crossed m j m ind. I knew th a t th i police m ade iie« o f vtuiou» m eans to ex trac t in* ibrm atioo from tÛHpvcted perM>os, a iid frequent^jr cm p lo y t^ ag en ts tu elicit fact«, an d ob ta in adoiia* siona u n d e r thi? o f friesdabip, wliich could Dot be e x to rted b y any legal proces*. N ow c«» t a i o l y tho ap p a reo t openness an d generosity o f Atx>chH B c h a r a c f c r , axid th e un resfrvod n ^ a r e « f h is conversatioo, were h ighly ealc«Utcd to c a U

fo rth som e deg ree o f reciprocal confidence froiB « e tr& n g O T , friendless an d unacquain ted with th? su b tle in trigêe o f th e Spanish police, an d t ^ circuitous pftths by w hich thoy o fica o b ta ia ihcir inform ation. O th e r ckcum stuic«^ Ia some stfonf^thcn«d th ia d isagreeab le impresiiiuTi. M y utting*'Toom was only separa ted from an adjoiniag a p a rtraea t b y a door which w a s k e p t oonvtaittly lockcd. an d 1 heard , upon tw o d iiferen t ogca&tons, « b cp e n g ag ed in coDTcrsatioQ, a ru stlin g near

tbd key*}iole, &s i f som e pernonA on tb e o ther side were in th e a c t lidteoing;. U pou iu q u i i f 1 le a ru t th a t th e ap a rtm en t was occupied b y Scn^r A tu c k a ; b u t b e was ou t Ckf th e boaao,and i t ie poeaibie th a t o th e rs l o a j hav« ta k e n ad* vaotftfê o f abecnoe. I n h » interview wirh me h e certainl^r le d th d conversation m or« th a n ooce to th e causc o f m y tf r e s t , b a t i t is p ro b ab le th a t curiosity alone d ic ta ted h is in q u m es. I wae uq* w illing to a ttr ib u to unw orthy m otives io a m an, upon whose open brow hooour an d tru th seem ed w ritten in charactcrs to o l e ^ b lc to b e m isU k e o ; b a t cxperionco h&d ta u g h t m e to diBtrust actions whieb, u n d er h ap p ie r circum stacces, could haT9 bonic no in ^ d io u s construction. F o r a t th a t tijoe friend auepevted friend, and th e fa th e r coaid hard ly p lace reliaoce on h is (Km; in such a s ta te o f society, suspicioo becomes n o t an occastonfd inm ate, b a t a p reva iling h ab it o f th e m in d ; nor » t h i s th o least e r i l re su ltin g fivuo long-con- tiuucd d v il diesenffione.

A d a y o r tw o a fte r th is Tisit, th e Secretary o f the Police called a t the in n , and req u ested m e to accompany h im to th e audiemce-room, w here f foand tho C ap ta is-g en e ra l esth roned . G ^ i a in- fiHmed m e th a t h e h ad ju s t received a d ia |« tch from M r. B a rtle tt, tb e B rilish Ck>nsul a t C orunna, declaring th a t I was an Ecgîshm oD, an d tho person whom 1 professed m yseli to be, g;uarantee-

m 2

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in g the leg iiiina ty o f tb e olêcts 1 h&d in \ ie v , an d in &hort, cimfirroing aU m y statom obts. I io was therefore p leased to t<>U m e, tb a t a fte r such an explicit declaralion from th e B ritish Consul, b e eouid n o longer en te rta in n d o u b t upon tbe subject, aa b e v a s a g ea tlcm an fo r h e en* tertáin& d the b ig b es t sen tim en ts u f rr«pcct. M y m aoiier an d appeArance v e re , however, so de* cidedly Spanish, tJiat even now h e w as unab le to c o n v in « th e Police a n d o thers o f a fact wbich the ConauVs po iitiv e aâurance alone induced him to c rc d it H e sa id th a t th e disasters iu to wliieh I b ad fa llen h a d been, to a g re a t ex ten t, the rcbult o f m y own im pruden t conduct ; th a t th e persons w ith whom I h ad aRsoclated, th e political inquiries I h ad made» m y frequent deviations from the high-i'oad, a n d m y w ild an d ram b lin g excursions am ong th e fastnesses, a t s u d i an unusual tim e of th e )o a r . b a d a l i conQrmed th e im pression whiri) in y btrik lng resem blance to Ih c oullaw cd ehi^rf h a d orig inally creatcd . l i e conclnded by Baying, th a t as tlie G oT cm m ent h ad resolved to liberate lue, 1 shou ld p robab ly b e disposed to leave San* iiag o on th e following day. 1 assured th e C ap- ta in*geaeral th a t I was fu lly prepari^d to m eet h is Aîshes in th a t respect, an d was an?dous io have m y p assp o rt m ade o u t fo r O rense on lh a t very evening. T h o allusion to O rea re tlireateocd to produce a fresh commotion : looks o f horror

and suspicion n'ere renew ed am ong ilie agcuM of tho Police, ao d the C ap ta in -general declared th a t the safety o f th e peop le e n tru s te d to h is d ia rg c ren d ered i t aLsolotely accessary th a t 1 should q u it Spain, -nith all im agiim ble rap id ity , l>y tho road to T oy , th e m ost d irect io the froutier. I replied , Uiat o f course no reason whicli I could allege would have any w eight w ith h is E x o e l- leocv, i f i t w ere once estaljllBhed th a t m y joxuney to Orense w ould d is tu rb tlie tranqu illity o f S pain j b u t a« 1 h a d acW ttlly m ade arrangem ents to re-en ter th e T raaos M ontes b y th e n o rth -easte rn frontier, sutU a com plete deviation from the rou te 1 liftd prescribed to m yself « o u ld b e a t te n d e d w ith g rea t personal ineonvcm cnre. H e had , howci'cr, determ ined tb a t 1 shou ld leave Spain b y tho T u y road, from wLidi h e requested roe on no p re lex t to w an d e r; and, to p rev en t m e from holding com m unications w ith niy supposed adherents, ho specified certa in towns, an d villages in which alimo I m igh t pa^s th o n ig h t. I f found in Spain after th e expiration o f th ree days I was a^ a iu liab le to b e a rrested . H e tJien expressed g rea t anx ie ty fo r m y safety, an d recom m ended m e to a u e p t h is offer o f an escort, which shou ld accompany m e to th e fron tier, an d effectually protec t m e from an y po p u la r ebullition. I perceived Ids rea l m otive, an d know ing well th a t these friends an d pro tectors would «pccdily become m y m asters.

I d ian k cd him tb o iQiezest ii« toulc iji m j safety, b u t expictssed Ihi; u tm ost diciTKluYAôQ to dq)riT c b is M ajesty o f any defenders a t a. tim e v h « n tb e ir prcacooe vaA so m uch req tiircd a t k o a io .

M atte rs w rre tb c u ad jo e tfs i; I ^va« eonditioa- aJIy resto red to ii« e d ix u . fo m a l aalutatioos were coldly exebaiiged betw een us, ao d v e separated. £gxuit >âs an adralrubie specim en o f th o old £ inatic Roy&li^ ; j e t a ll th e an d » b ilitjv b ie h h e dieplajei^ if) d e toe ting the m ost }iidd«n conspiracies, a n d b r in g in g to justice th e most w ary cODBpirat<Hv, uouid n o t proscrvo h in i from a i e a r ^ l disaster, ib r h e was d readfu lly wounded' in 1829 b y th e exp\oeion oi* eomo fu ln iica tln^ pow der, arlftjlly p laced u n d er ih e seal o f a le tte r ; % Uaso a n d Tnciii^natit ac t. p ro b ab ly e m a n a tir^ from some ex asp era ted Tictim h is scTerlCy. H av in g talcco Icare o f my k in d filenda (h e B ivaa I inountod m y horse . M y guard ian A agel, in th e shape o f a Police-officer, rem ained to th e last m om ent a t h is i>o«t n e a r th e inn. N ew s from C ata loo ia arrived im m ediately prev ious to my dep artu re from S an iiago ; tb c ii's«rre'?tioD »till «oniinuod to ^ a ia gpround, tb e Q ueen h a d l>eea in su lted in h er passage th ro u g h V alentia, arwl th e expectod re-estafo^^lurKnC o f th e iDquisition exerted, in the higfaost degree , th e hopes and fears o f the co c flic tia ; parties.

A n d h av in g g iven ft fw thful account o f the « n p iU r cvcntfl which bcic l ate in conscquenoe o i A miftioncvption o f m y motives, 1 sh o u ld bft ac ting an u iieandid an d ungcnerons p a r t i f 1 d id no t s ta te , th a t calm ly rcêcliog upon crcn t» , now long elapsed, I canno t im pute w nch . it any, l>lajno to th e Spanish A uthoritle*. 'I h a cavil war, th en T aging in th o kingdom , Ih© pkita th a t w ere m ul- tip ly itig on a ll side», an d the tp ice who h ad U td y in u n d a ted G a llk ia , an d were communlcBting wUh th e Spanish dem ocrats in P o rtu g a l, wcyti c ifcnn i' a tances p reg n an t w ith danger to th e eetab liihcd G ovcm iftcnt. A t the tim e, I waa n a tu ra lly an noyed a t such an a ttack upon m y lib e r ry, b u t 1 can easily conceive th a t the local au thorities iriay h a r e con«id«red i t th e ir boumW n duty , in the critical situation o f p ub lic affairs, to a rre s t a atrangor, onining from a m ost «oapected co u n try ; who»e jo u rn ey too w as pertbrm Bd a t a re ry un- M ual tim e o f th o year, an d waa accoropsaied b y circum stance» in some d ig ie e calculated to thrvw d o u b t upon hi» intention». I tU » k I m iRht h a re cyporieoced tlie sam e ia te rru p tio u under any Go* Twrnment ao cipcum atanecd; ao d « f th is 1 am sure, th a t h a d I l)een arrc» t«d b y m y Spanish Uhcral friends, u n d er e u ^ lc io n o f K oyalisl in tiigueu , my th ra ld o m w ould h a re been m ore p ro traclcd , and m y tre a tm e n t no t quit© » toleraW c.

'ITia cvenm g w as ra iny , b u t th e coun try t h r o u ^ w hich 1 to d e to P a d jo n lively an d divcTfified.

‘I 'b e re I w as rofreshcd \ > y sorae U a, an d fatigued b y a Lobt o f iosatiab lc women, who ovyrwholmed u)C w iüiqucricb touching E n g la n d A s a p la in un- varu ish rd »tatem ent o f foefs d id n o t appease úií*ir appp tilc for th e m arvellous, I gratitíc<l th e ir taste " b y aesurijig tliciii th a t E n g lish m en wen» guaran. Iced h j law in th e un d ia lu rb ed possession o f four f on tem porary an d concubincs 4nt id re tu rn fo r m y Communications, th ey tr ie d to coiiTcrt m e to th e C atholic faith, a n d assured mo, th a t, with such a p ious olôct in view, th ey would ra ise no in judieiuus objections to a Uttie w ell-tim cd gallan try , a lth t)ugh fludi g m tle lapses w ore conaidered by th e ir ( 'h u rc h a« m o rta l sins,

0 « th e following d ay I continued my journey to the fron tier, th ro u g h a deligh tfu l country . I m e t some Spaniards a t K edondcU , who asked roe m ore <juc8tions tlian I th o u g h t r ig h t to answer a t such a doub tfu l tim e. N e a r T u y I saw a curioa* inatanco o f th a t in ap titu d e to aecom m odate estábil shed h ab its to ac tual circum stancos, so pecu. lia r to th e S pan ish character, an d some tim es so tru ly ludicrous in its resu lts. A superior k in d o f counirymaD, d r iv in i ' a vehicle conta in ing parcels an d goods, (h is own. m oreover,) liad b een so u n fo rtuna te as to overtu rn it , n o t fa r from the g a te s o f th e town. T ho horse w as l^ in g under

tb o s h a f ts , th e vehicle w as in t h e ditch , the goods were sca tte red a lo n g the road , aTid> a lthough u f a pcriih ftbU luiture, were l) in g . f o r the soost pact, im m erued in m ud. U n d e r these circumstancBB any m an b u t h S pan iard w ould have im m ediately aseiwlcd h is horse to rU c, w ould havo exam ined h is V ehicle lo ascerta in th a t i t h ad HuiTerod no iiyury , a n d would have c a re iu U y rep laced hia goods: n o t so ou r friend th e S p a n ia rd ; the hour h a d arrived a t which h e w as accustom ed to m ake h is m id-day rep as t, an d th a t rep as t was no t to be postpcncd h y a n y & eakofm aU gnan tfo rtune; so, p e rch ed o n one side o f the sabverte^l vehk le , h e &at calm a u d conspicuous, knife in hand« le ia u re ly apportioning hl^ cheese to h is brciul* an d eyeing w ith indiifeTcncc, horse , vehicle, an d soak ing g o o d s ; n o r till the inw ard loan was Ihvroughly appealed , d id h e b eg in in sober earnest to iuB pect an d rc p a ii th e evil. H e was a C ata lan , and n o t a G allician, an d th is blight inc iden t is an a p t an d faitliful iU nstration o f tho phlegroadc dispo^îtion o f h is countrym en, an d of th e ir d o gged adhesion to ord inary h a b its u n d er every contingency.

W e sometimes hea r, in F ran ce a n d E o g la n d , of a sp irit o f encroach m cni, an d a sp irit o f contes* s io n ; in Spain, a sp ir it o f a propos, i f i t m ay b e 80 termer!, UDquestionably tinges th e national character. 1 have heard , th a t in th e agony o f the

u 3

C ope«, « i d w hen th e F ren ch were artuaJJy eoter- in ? C ftdii. ft gV>winy orarfor « m argînp , w ith tnerisy . on t h t ex ac t degroo o f precedence w kidi ch&uld hereskfter b e oeconled to & K eai-A dim f»! o f C onttiiB tionU Sp»m . T h e re « a r e l y u , h o w e r e p

reiDoie, » fftcniiy rosom blaocc betw een o u r fow(> in g farm er ao d tho or»tor, for, u n d er th e ir fe- ip ic tiv o eirciimseiince«, tlie fe i* t Aod th e ftrpu- m en t were <*quiJlj inappropriaic.

A t T u y 1 m et m y old ally, tb e C im rora a ^ « i t who d ispatched ioy hu iinoss w ith g re 4 t expedition. H e rp a memhcp o f the Police assu red me th ^ t a d«tAil«fd acooMnt o f m y arree t, im d o f the piOceedingB inatitirted &g«in«t a f , h a d been for- w arded Uj th e ir offioc, an d a d d ed th a t m y move- m rn ts h ad been narrow ly ob*err«d d u rin g my first vi»lt to S antiago. W hile I u ta n d ir^ on th e \ATik expecting the bo a t de* lined to convey mi? avroas th e M inho, a noble » tre im which h ere divides the riyal kingdom a, two Ca|njcOnn friar* approached m e. an d e n te rin g in to eonversaiioo endcarm jfed , by many lu b tle qucacions, io d iscover th e rcaJ object o f m y G alliîan erpcdition. A t len g th wc em barked , an d I b ad e a final farewell to Spain, renowned, rom antic S p a in ; a country which I h ad fcan d alw ays fraugh t w ith s tirr in g adventurfts, m d always enveloped in th e s to n n a o f c i i i l diiiw nsion. I lan d ed on the P o rtuguese shore, an d b rea th ed freely.

C H A P T E R V I I .

F i n t nvf i t r o««] — B m u I ; o( t h * K a t r «M i« h v — H up«r» tiikO Q « r t h « B « 6 to - > C o v V r Q k o f T U b û i » — f l u i i a i f i T i T T n h “^ “ **^** o f t b « H i a b e » a d M o M t a h x v n « f

t b e T r is v « » n p « T « d — U t«ftkCu( w t k i C m v » » ! F w t r o i— Monki»h FlAtttr;— lU tum W L*«b»ü.

A t Y aleDça I « ille d o n the G oTcm or, an d in tb o cveom g attCDdod & a t hi« bous«, wboro I WHS in tro d u ced iu tb « lad íce o f h is fam ily, the officers o f & rcg in ten t aüitÎoDêd ib th « to im , and three* fa t an d favourite pugs* I found th e O o- vom or, a m ost w orlhy m an, in bod, sn ifering from indisposition, and a l a d j o f a certa io ag^', e v id ^ t ly wife, m otlier, o r d au g h te r, feed ing h im with affectionate solicitude. V alent)« ie a placo o f g rea t s ireo i^ h , an d m ig h t eaú ly dem olish its sister town on th o opposite b a n k : in allusion to its fortiH cations, som e P o rtu guoeo officers ohacrverl, th a t th e ir forbearance, la re fra ijùng from such a tem ptinj» âc t. w u a signal proof o f the national m oderation , a n d added, as a supp lem ent to the rem ark , tb a t th e s trung w ere always nicreilul ; a» i f tlie destruction o f T u y involved th a t o f 8paÍD, a n d u'orxld b e followed b y n o retribu tive eoa»e-4}UeDCCB<

T h e exquisite b eau ty o f fh c counfry between T n y an d P o n te d i lim H bafDes all dcscriplion. I ro d e uniOQ^ h ills povered w ith cork ao d olive, over kno lls p a rtly b a te an d p a it ly clothed w ith p ic tu resque g ro u p i o f chestnu t, em u la ting fhc rich est p a rk sccncry» an d th ro u g h fields ol* the m o st de ligh tfu l verdure, in tersec ted by streama o f c lear water, an d ovcrshadow rd b y ancien t oak*. H e ro too th e w alnut grew profuBcly; th a t tree a l once th e b eau ty a n d d isgrace o f ^¿ugUsh scenery ; for, in E n g la n d , i ts le a se s fall early in Septem ber) and its bare, denuded b ranches ibnn a m oum rul co n trast to th e g reen luxurianct? of th e an rround ing fo re s t: w ith u s , i t is tlie first h u b in g e r o f w in ter, an early an d unwclcomc h e ra ld o f th e gen era l diHSolution; b u t, in the M inho, its foliage 'wai« unim paired, even in the h e a r t o f N ovem ber. T h e ra re un ion o f tree« an d shrub* belong ing to d lllercn t cUojales, and R o w in g side b y side, is th e m ost s trik in g fea tu re o f tills e a rth ly parad ise . H e re th e n o rth am i eouth m ay b e said to m eet on am icable term s, for th e In d ia n corn, th e d a rk cork , the deep green o range, an d th o lu x u ria n t v ine, th en com pletely tu rn e d and o f a b rig h t-red colour, were beautifully in te rsp e rsed w ith th e oak, an d elm. an d th o h a rd y v ege ta tion o f th e no rth ern world. A t le n g th I reached I’ontc d i L im a, a n d ram bled a lo n g the b an k s o f th a t d e lig h tfu l stream , th e C a rad o . I

Ihou^lit I h a d n ev er g;a2 ed upon a lovcUcr acenc, as 1 saw tb e uun se t gloriousW b eh in d a ran g e o f b o ld m ountains tlicn robed in th o docpcbt p u rp le , an d ilia tn inale w ith i ts la s t beam s m a n j pcaccful ftud p ic tu resque ham lets b u ilt o f cork an d thatchcd w ith broom . F ro m l i m a I rode on to B rago , th ro u g h a continuation o f th e sam e enjoyable coun trv an d execrable ro ad s; whUo tbe hedges, h ig h an d coTcred w ith w ild flowers, re m inded m e o f the la ae s n e a r D aw lish on a spaing d a y ; a li tt le fa rth e r on, th o p in e abounded, m ixed w ith th e re d h e a th in fu ll blootu.

I n th e course o f th is day 8 jo u rn ey wc passed tlxe h u t of a lone BcqIo. T h e ioiperstjtioD o f th o B en tos is deeply icw ted in p a r ts o f P o rtu g a l, and th e B en tos an d B en tas are g rea tly venerated. A s th e B en to is d istingu ished b y th e possession o f ex traord inary focultios d u rin g hia m ortal career, 80 h is en trance in to th is w orld o f g r ie f an d sin is accum panied b y ex trao rd inary rircumstance:^. B efore h is b lr tb . s trange an d fearfu l lam entations a re h ea rd to issue from h is m other’s womb, and v»hcn born , th e sig n o f th e cross is scon dib linrtly m ark ed on th e roo f o f h is m o u th ; h isp ri^g rcss from infancy to m anhood Is characterized by unu su a l g ra r itv , b y an abstinence from a ll boyish ainuseuients, b y p rem atu re wisdom, an d b y a fores ig h t exceeding th a t o f m an : n o fraud , how ever well contrived, can escape h is p e n e tra tio n ; i f an

c ^ n c c bad beoo eofflmitted, h e fixes w ith aobcai. tfttm g decisiuD upon tb « offènder ; i f » robbery h a s occurrcd, b e Todieatet tb e p isce w here the sto len goods doposited, s o d nam es th e robber. T o him tb e aJisdes o f m id n ig h t arc cletir as the ^ s r e o f noOQ ; an d i f m an 's lifo bo tak en a t th a t s ilen t hour, h is glaoce can p icree the darknras* tB pciteC nblo b y o th e r eyes, an d b i t sw ful voice proclftima th e accuxxed m an o f blood-

A n d th e re . w ) i e r e b is U n«ly h u t lies I n i n c d .

am id cm g an d hea tb . th e re , aft« r a heavy faU of ra in , w hen the m ountain a tresm s are flooded, an d tltc w ild clouds chasing cacK o ther over the d iso rdered fiice o f boaven» th e re m ay b e scea th e a |:e d B entu , fd ling th e m agic p h ia l w ith the w aters o f seven d ifferent fouDtaina w aters which, u n ited b y b is pious hand , an d a t tb e fittin g » O ' w en t, have som e utrange inexplicable pow er to hea l th e m ost grievous m aladies : th e re too, on th e s till eve, when n o t a b re a th d is tu rb s the fijrest trees, th a t sa in ted an d so litary m o rta l is beheld b y a revering peasan try , c a llin g sim ples from th e biU-eidc, o r k in d lin g a m ysterious fire Bpon tb e rock, an d feed ing i t w ith th e sable fea thers o f some spell-bound b i r d ; a wnnder- v o rk in g eom bination whicli can infuse fresh v ig o u r in th e healthy, an d resto re to life the dv ing loan.

A ir i r e d a t B rag a , 1 stopped a t tb e D os Am i

go«, an d in tb e eTening w u Y site d b j the Com - sBMidftot. O n tb e f<ôw ing m o rn in g I p a r to c ^ of a »QsnptiMnu b reak iits t a t b i t house, a fte r which h e m ounted m e o q a f n c b o n e , ao d aeoo4n{>amed a e to tb e C onvent o f T h i bairn, a spaikw » edifice p laced in th o m id st o f ao cnchantiBg garden. TUo verdure wae »onderfu lly r ic h ; tb e rose* in tiW l)loom ; an d th e w hole oonntry, seen from th o conTcnt windows, rc«em bied a g re a t ex teo t o f p leasu re g ronnd . T h ia m onaatery contains some p ic tu res o f considerable m e r i t T w o « 0 sa id to h a re beeu exoeutcd b y K abcns. an d 1 bavc l i ttie doub t th a t one a t Icaat is an orig inal. T h e re is also 00c h j B iiphaci, a n d som e o th e rs called I ta lia n , which m ar, 1 th in k , b e safely aocribed Co iJu? B ologna school. T h e re a rc tw o p ic tu res o f In e z do C astro , tb o one rep resen ting h e r in th e first bloesoining o f j r m ih ; th e o ther, a iew year» la te r , w hen h e r cbarm s h ad fully e x p ^ d c d . T b e g en era l character o f th e colouriog. tbc stiffbcsa o f th e figure, an d th o h a rd n c is o f th e outhnc, fully ostab lish th e ir cbuiub to antiqn ity . l i i tbe convent garden 1 observed a Tory peculiar spe- rios o f poplar, w ith »0 la rg e a le a f th a t I a t first iu sp ec tcd i t to b e a ra r ie ty o f tb e banyan f r e e ; as I re tu rn ed lo 1 saw th e In d ia n corn,cu t an d p iled a round th o trees, th e s ta lk b e in g le ft for ca ttle to focd on. A b ran ch hung over tb c p o rta l o f a iLoaac, is here, a« i t waa ia

li^n g land d u rin g Shol^speaTc's tím e, &n u n fo ilb ^ s ig a o f ectertaiD iuent fo r m an a n d liorsc. I n Uie evening» tlie D e a n o í accom panied m e toth o C athedra l, an cdifice possessing li ttle hcaotyj b u t venerab le from its an tiqu ity , a n d supposed to have been LulU bctoro th £ M oorish invasicot T h e scene was m elancholv b u t im posing. Tlio A rcbbibhop h a d la te ly died, th e walls were b u n g w itb b l ^ k cloth, an d th e low funerea l music, Cliu* gU og w itb th e ten d e r voiocs o f tb c yonng ciio- TÍitcrS) sounded sw eetly b u t m ournfully iLrougb iL e lo n g ü sle» . T h e A rchbishop o f B ra g a i t P rim a te o f th e tw o Spains, in v irtue o f hi* office; bo, th e re frre , fills a p o s t o f th e Id gbest d ign ity , a o d a t th a t tim e enjoyed *n enorm ous xcveuuc.

E a r ly on th e following m orn ing I continued m y journey . T h e va le o f B rag a richly w ooded; tlie white walls o f innum erable q u in tas peep ing th ro u g h th e t r e e s ; tb e m o n ito r ie s crow ning tbe h e ig h ts ; tlie fieecy clouds, wbicb re s ted m idway on th e ad jacent hills, an d th e b lu e smoko, cu rling upw ards from the tovrn, p roduced a v e ry p leasing effect. A t G u im araens I v isited the o ld pajace o f Ih e K ings, now converted in to a barrack, and a ilerw ards explored tlie castle, evidently buiU b y th e H om ans in th e days o f tb e ir b e s t w ork- m annhip, an d s till in h ig b preservation , P iiso n - c rs fo r d e b t are now confined w ilhin i ts walls, w hich seem calculated to en d u re for ages. T h e re

I 68W a m an wliose h a g g a rd face w«is fcarhiUy irnprcsBcd by w ant a a d wrc*<^heJne*«; an d when 1 gave h im a pificc o f money h e p ro s tra ted him se lf before vie in th e d ep th o f lus hum ility , w ith such an a ir o f xittcr self-abasem ent, as hard ly bccam e a hum an b e in g w hen addressing hi* b ro th e r m an. T h e C a th ed ra l o f G uim araens is ancien t, an d m ore w orthy o f n o tice from its ex trem e slng;uUrity th a n from any arch itec tu ra l merit«- T h e old colum ns a rc strong , uncouth , an d b a rb a ro u s; th e w alls a re pa rtia lly tile d w ith ch ina; ao d decorations i n th e m ost cxectable tae tc haTe b een a d d ed in la t te r tim es. G ulm a- n ien s eontaioa m any w ealthy inhab itan ts , an d some o f th e provincial nobles have houses in tlie town, an d arc b y n o m eans unpopu lar. T h o people were m uch a ttach ed to th e convent«, and particu larly to th o nunneries, which dispense as- sisU nce to th e poor vrlth g rea t liberality . F rom G oirtiaracnB 1 ro d e o n to O |ic rto , which term inated a n exped ition a tte n d e d xvith considerable h a rd ship an d fatigue, b u t fu ll o f in te re s t an d cscite- roent. Since we le ft S an tiag o H ic w eather h ad been tru ly de ligh tfu l: th e th re e weeks th a t suw eed th e heavy au tom ual ra in s in P o rtu g a l are often th e m ost agreeab le in th e y e a r ; an d th a t season, know n by th e nam e o f S a in t M artin ’s sum m er, combine» th e unclouded sunshine and genial sen*

sfttioBB o f ih e re»I saarm er, w ithou t its oppreM ire liea t.

I h ad DOW tMTCwod th e E n tre Minh© twice, en d d a rm ^ n j se ro n d jc ra ro e j th ro u g it i}ie count ry wms s till m oré hoprcsaed w ith & senao o f Ua n rp a » e is g becu ty . AH tb n t la roo»t graucfol in <ultiv«t<?d Bceoerv, aU (h a t Í» m ost s tr ik isg m tb o wild Und*eapc> haTo eom H nod to re n d e r tbia R ttie d is tric t a & iry lan d . In th e m ore sheltered situa tions o f th e E n t r e M inlio tSae tM -p laa t aod tb e C ape jea«am ise ^row w itíi little w e . wiulc th e azereiro, o r I ’ru o u s LusiULnica, th c C y tis iu , ao d ««▼oral v a rie tk « o f tb c C iatus tr ib e , a re in te r- xningled in g ay profosion w k b tb e k>ftj broom o f M adeira. 'H ie fields a re Aill o f In d ia s com , tb s meadows a re ahundiKOtly w atered h j artifici&l aa well aa by tb e ir o n u n a tu ra l an d beautcona stream fl; th e sidea o f tb o bill»« cooverted i i t o terraeeSs a re cuU ivated « ith exquiaite care, tbe vinca climb n p tb e higbvat tree« an d a t once em b race an d arn te the oak , th e eh estou t, an d the popWr. L e t the traT cller p a a se in almoat any Talley o f tk e M inbo, an d h is eye w ill ie a s t on all th ia Tvh detail o f heauty , w hile froaa (h e a^^jaceot h e igh ts o f granice iw k he w ill a m m a n d a gorgeous scene o f woodland, direrBified by stream s, and fraûen t co ttages half-seen, balf*hid h y th e ir em how crtag g ro v es; b e will perc»T e apots U n o a t

â a c tc s s ib le . j o t rocÎMincd f r ^ th e )ie*lbery ) ta in . plaDt<:d w ith mais€, ftod bang ing ae i f n th e air ; h e v i l l g ase w ilk adm iraticD o a i h f many rema&uta o f tlie old w arrior CHitles. each iavested yn th it« p e ru lia r legend , an d g u a rd e d b y iU own enchanted M o o reu ; and la&t, n o t leaat io beauty , ©n th e coBvcpt t ^ c r e . r is in g in peofiefal potnp above Üie liix u h a o t ^ a w .

IJi« htiurt mutft b e inseDeible t o ex te rn a l in - fiatinces who can beho ld w ithout dcUght, o r q u it w ithout r e ^ o t . »Hch a favoured countiy . E ven th e « tern victor« o f th e aoc ieu t world. Uttlc proQC to th e soft em odona o f o o r na tu re , w ere vaii' qaishtid h y th e bew itching beau ty o f th e valleys aD^ o f th a t nâtch- Lpss stToaxn titoy th rew down th e national eagles, a n d re fased to leave th a t happy land , 'lltcy CAUg^t tb e poetic ^ i h t o f th e people, t!hey called tb c I .im a %ad tk e Cavado th e rivers o f ohlÎTtoa. a a d , in a fit o f paaciouate en thuaiaon , furgot th e t i t t th a t b ound th em to th e ir d is ta n t h o n e , an d renounced th e g \o m o i la ip e r ta l I ta ly ib r th e {>asiwal an d peaceful acclusion o f th e M inho,

1 h a re a lready observed th a t poetry an d «ong a re h ere m uch in vogue, in d eed th ey socm the apontaneo«» g row th o f th e m ia d ; th a t tendcBcy to poetic ex]>ression a o d poetic e s a g g e ra tb n ia tltt* o rd in s jy in tercu o f n h k h chsraci crises th e in h ab itan ts o f th n T razos M ontes, ia equally

rem arkable in ih c E n tro M inho, b u t i» laodlfied b y the d ifferent c h a r« lo r o f th e peop le an d of th e cuuotry. I n th e M ioho th e m ind o f raan is moK? lig h t %ná elastio, embellishing; a ll i t louchw , investing m a tte rs o f li ttle in le rw l w ith a name* lees g r a « , an d frcqueotly advertin g to comroo» o b jc c u w ith ao almoiit O rien ta l profuaion u f m e. tftplior. B u t in tb e T razo s M oo tv i th e iraagina- tion o f the m ountaineer [>artakc6 o f th e gloom of b is own less geoiid elim atc a n d o f th e Gotbic world. F o r instauc<?. tb e crim son cluiids, tb a t su rro u n d th e sc ttin ;; sun , would b e com pavcd by tb e g&y peop le o f th e M inho to the dftinssk rose o f tbeir own enchanted valley o f B árrelos, while tb e sacQe clouds in tb e T razu s M ontes w ould be Ul<ened to th o blood o f a slaugh tered enemy- A dilfereT ice equally strikln;* pervade» tb e provincial ao n g s; soft an d ten d e r in th e ^ linho , goneraliy p lain tive, b u t almovl always ce leb ra ting the jovs an d sorrows o f a g en tle love, in th e T raso s M onte s th ey b rea th e m ore often th e lan g u ag e o f fran tic passion an d vehem ent revenge. 'Ih e common }>easant in the E n tr e M inho n o t unfr«!'# qucntly adopts th e expressions a n d u n d erstan d s th e delicacy o f refined c o u r tsh ip ; i n tb e Traao« M ontes h e often bo lds th e lan g u ag e , a n d is anim ated by tbe sentim ents o f a hero . T h o inhabit* a n ts o f b o th provinces are loyal to excess. In tb e M inho, i t is t h e un th ink ing , reckless, l a u g h t e r '

lov ing loyally o f th e FrenohTnan o f th e old school; b u t m th e T raxos M onfes, a ttachm en t to the SoTcreign i», in tim es o f troul>lc, ft s tern , engross* i r ^ ¡íassiou which banishes every selfish consideration , and scarcely adm its o f a co exietlng th o u g h t. T h e in h o b itan t o f th e M inho, u n d er e re ry fluctuation o f feeling, eajoye equal and u n clouded s l a n t s ; b u t hU b ro th e r m ount aincor, like ih e H ig h lan d e r o f o ld, is a lte rn a te ly w rought to th e lo ftiest enthusiasm , o r xreighed down b y the d eep est dc jee tion ; a n d in th a t m ood o f m ind, an om en from tbc river o r th e cloud w ill d a u n t a h e a r t A ssulablo b y n o loe ie m o rta l p e r i l : ho biis in d eed his golden dream s, h is confident antieipu^ tions o f success, b u t th en b e h as h is sure forebod ings o f approacb iug doom . B o th th e inba- b itim ts o f the T razos M onfes an d o f th e M inho w e dero ted ly atfnehed to th e ir n a tive s o i l : the people o f th e M inho frequently m ain ta in th a t ne ither th e re s t o f P o rtu g a l, n o r íiny know n p o rtion o f tbe globe, can com pete io b eau ty w ith tb e ir valleys, b u t th a t J leav o n alone possesses such scenes o f tru e enchantm ent.

I rem ained a t O porto fo r several w eeks afVer m y re tu rn from Spain. In th o society o f C oun t V illa F lo r and his b eau tifu l C ountess, tim e g lided rapidly an d p leasan tly away.

A few days previous to m y d ep a rtu re fr^m lh a t d ly I accepted a a inv ita tion from D ona

P tu bre«kfaAt w ith tb e ourm a t tLe ConTeikte f Bcncái<^tincd. T h w am iab le an d int<?restiii^ jo u iig was dcftcended from a noble Jjng lish fam ily rcinotcly connected w ith m j own, and h ad rrcen tly U kon th e veiL O u r party , fonsU tiog of m y inlclH gent friend M r. W biteley , M rs. W hite- ley, another lady , a n d myself, w ere ekown in to tW convent p u lo u r , whore we found b reak o u t p re p a re d ; about tk e sam e tim e th e Iâdy Abbe««» aoD m paoied by som e young n u o s . en te red an adjoin ing apartm ent, only separa ted frou) ours b y adcm blo g ra tín g. TTxe reception she gave u s was w urteous, though d ígnÍ£od ; th e n u n s were gen tle an d re tir in g in m ajiner, y e t to ta lly free from any ^ rp ca ran ce o f aw kw ard emltarr^««* u e u t , jo ined ip’aeofully, though b n t occasionally, in conversation. I observed on som e o f theif counteDanees an expression pensive an d resigned, b u t n o t indicative o f m en ta l <li»qi(ietude; t h ó r deep b lack a ttire acgordsd well w itli th o clear paleiieeti o f tb e ir eom pkxioQ s; th o m an tilla dc> pended from tb e head , p ro to c tisg ra th e r th an sh roud ing th e face ; tb e ir h a ir was p a r te d in tbo M adonna style, and a curiuoft k in d o f whalebone p ro jected from th e forehead in a cu rro an d rested upon tb o now .

A fte r b reak iast wc w alked th ro a g h tb o convent church, an d lis ten ed w ith d e lig h t to th e rich sounds o f its power&d <»rgaji, an d saw the nnna

I f^ k in » ^ w Q upoQ V M f ro c i u o th o T gTMe raU ed h ig h RlK>ve th e b ix i^ o f th e ckurck. A t Icngih th e g ra te w w opened; tb o n u n s dcaccndcd, and j n r r a l j tx id affccdoDately e m b r^ c d th© ladies o f oo r p arty , alWr which we exchanged salu tatioos an d departod . T lie g enera l eflcct W2£ pleaeiog, bu t 1 was s t i l l m ore im pressed b y a Bccne which I a ftc rv o rd s w itneesed a t th e sam e p k ire I w slked w ith m y friend M r. W ld te lcy to th e church a t a la to h o u r o n Chruitm aa ove. I t w as b n l- llao tly i l lu i iu n ^ d , an d crow ded to «¿xces« by persons flocking in trum th e country as well aa jrom tb e town, anîoua to beho ld the celehration o f th e C hristm as riteij, a n d an im ated b y a spuiC o f th e m ost ferveu t dcTOtion. I fe lt n o oodtnon in te rest, as I gazed upon tho se beau tifu l young womon who s p e a r e d a t th e h ig h a n d d is tan t g ra te , w aking a t in te rv a ls the deep o rg an an d avcom panjing i t by th e ir \o ices, voices o f sur* passin g sweetness, w hich th rilled th ro u g h a thousand hearts . H ^ e d fa r ab o re th e low er «orld , th n j Fcminded m e o f th e angelic host, woen by the awe-str\ick shophiTrds, on th o blessed aoniversary o f th a t eve, floating upon th e rea lm s o f ^pace« b re a th in g oclcstasl s tra in s a n d s in g in g * ^ ' G lory to G o d in th e h ig h e s t; a a d on e a r th good w ill to Man.*’

] canoo t q u it th is subject w ithout s ta tin g m y convictioQ th a t th e aspcrsionb cast upon th e nuns

n o , ^cDcrally speaking, u n ju e t A i far as regard» th o in te re s tin g porsons to wliom I have 1)octi a llud ing , tlie ir conduct w as uniycrsally adm ltl^d to b e p u re , an d uQ exceplionable; to call them l)larDclcss would l>c fa in t p ra ise indeed, as Iheir lives were sp en t in an u n in te rru p ted eirem sc of th e m ost activo charity . I n a country abonnding in oonvput« sume few iostancoR m ay be addixccd o f n u n s who have b roken tho ir vows, ovei'cowo b y tlie force o f au ea rth ly passio n ; b u t the d isg race entaU cd upon tho siBterhood, b y any detec ted frailty , is considered g re a t, an d the pc* nalty inflicted upon the oflcndcr i* p ro p o rtio n ab lj severe.

I h ad now devoted m ore tim e to tbe K o rtb o f P o rtu g a l th a n 1 lia d origiDally in ten d ed , an d m y dep artu re from O porto had been tor several days d e lay ed solely by th e ro u g h sea an d tem pestuous w inds, which effectually p rev en ted the steam -boat from (quitting the harbour. A t len g th the we;itber becam e m orcfavoiirab le, an d h av in g tak en leave o f m y friends, 1 rose before break o f day on the 2 7 th o f D ecom ber, and embarlced on b o ard the steam -boat b o und to L isbon. B u t th e d iw eurag- in g accounts b ro u g h t liy the p ilo t o f the s ta le o f th o b a r . de term ined th e CaptaiD to defer tbc FOyage to an o th er day . T L e passage o f th e b ar ia perilous w hen th e sea is m uch d is tu rbed , o r th o « a tc r low, sa th e only channel th ro u g h which

a Tescel can titTigfttc in safety is shaHovr, eon. fined, an d hem m ed in b y rocks. I t may ccwily \,e conc«Ted lh a t am oog th e E n g lis h society a t O porto , w hich is principally com posed o f gentle* m en engaged in commerce, th e s ta te o f th e Invr becomes a frequent an d an rio u a sxxbject o f conversa tion a t th e ir even ing pa rlie s . “ H ow is ihe b ar th ia evening?" is as often asked a t a n O porto dinner as “ W ere you in ih o P a rk to -day?" in St. Jam es 's S quare. T h e re a re som e curious facts connected w ith th is dangerous a tc tunulation of saiid . T lie sea, previously tran q u il, o ften rises in th e im m ediate v icinity o f tlie b a r, a n d tu shes in upon i t w ilh trem endous force, a lthough no v isib le cAUse o f excitem eut can b e discerQcd. while, a tran g e to say, a l i ttle fa rth e r a long tlu? shore the •water rem ains com pletely und istu rbed . O porto is nearly th ree m iles from th e m iun ocean, b u t even a t th a t distance I have been som etim es fo rcibly struck b y th o lo u d an d aw fal ro a r p roduced b y th e sudden rise o f the b a r , unexpectudly hi'caking in upon th e stillness o f n igh t.

A som ewhat sim ilar phenom enon sometimes prev.uls a lo n g th e coast. U pon such occasions the whole sea becom es chafed w ithout any assignable cause, an d toUb in i ts m ountainous surge* upon th e beach, a lthough tlxe d ay is perftcUy ealm , an d th e re is n o t th e light<*t cloud, o r the fa in te s t b re a th o f wind- Some jiersons attrlbuCo

th is pecuTjar k in d 'o f g ro u c d - s i^ ! Io fh c opcratíorr o f h«8Ty galrs in d is th o l goaf í tho se gales, th ey siipp<ê, chafc th e w aters u n d e r t t e inflaenre of tlic ir own iniTnediate »ctioo. an d th e watCT*, hc- com iog d istu rbed , fâd u a lly com m unkatc th e ir own ag ita tio n to th e rem o te r p a r ts o f th n orean.

1 Lave obsetv'cd tfic sam e k in d o f avrel!, in t IcsHcr d<*gr«*c, a t Budt? H avea, a w ild p o rt on the N o rtlie rn coast o f C ornw all, which should be v isited b j e re ry jw ia te r o f th e storm , and, -infiecd, by every m an who lore« Ih e sea in ila rou g h crt m i w d f o r he wiÜ there behold, on a tempef»ruoire day, a size and g randtfur o f wave, an d an uninlrt* ru p te d surfi^ce o f foam , such as p e rh ap s n o o ther p a r t o f Ih e B ritish coast can p resen t. I asked ait I r ish sailor, who h a d lived tw o y ears a t Bude, w h c tliir h e h ad ever seen a w ilder »ea on his nadve shore. “ N ever, inHecd, Sir,* h e replied, “ an d T verily belicTO tlia t B ode T Iavrn was Ihe la s t harÍKTtir Pod! A lm ighty m a d e .” * T hose g rea t m asses o f foam, contrasting; w ith th e dark crag o f tlie cosat. form n o t nnfrequcnily a scene which M orlim d would have loved.

* I t ntu>k nu t, hu««»»)*, b e w p p n io d thok t h i i so k h m ) ^ k U e f u r ( b e { ^ « d m r r u h ó r r t i t u t c o f { h r e o n / » r t 8

« ( e»avaDM AM «a{ ki¿>. Tb««« ia » v e r ; j v o d bM«) «dM dub««l a t B u d e , 4 s J giNxI H ie 'D u b a s A e l ta d b** g i M *lO f u l f » ( i h a ^ , i t b i s 0« a f r p a o a e « « b « n t ) i c R n . H f .

K in g o S e ia U t ,a s é O s l iw n m b c o fth*(B w tfT «c> h iiiryel« ld (p*°^ t t rm u n « t h n t H W m r U e n v r < M ( » h » » * . T b « p e « ^ u » « c U d lsp o td d * a d g;(ateftiL

B u t 1 m û vaudoriD g sti»ngely from lay O a th e fcÛoving m oniifig 1 agftia rose boforo daylight, à a d âuibâckcd ob board U lt wlicro I finally took leavd o£ m y U n d friend IVL*. W liite lcy . wLum I q u itted w ith re a l re g le t. Xlic 6an shonc b rig h tly on tb e beautifu l banks o f tli« D ouro, as v/e g lided down t t e riv e r ; b u t when wc approM b^d th e form idable b a r . th o o ld dim bts v o te revived, an d the p rop rie ty o f pas.t4ng it

again caUod in tu queHtioD ; tb e C upU iu. wbo h ad b een p reven ted from (ju itiiog th e har* b o o r for tw o-aud-ttf€nty d ay s b y tb e s ta te oi* tb* b a r. becam e im patien t o f fu rth e r d i ^ y , oaà do* t id e d in iIjq atfirmiUive. H o way« n o t, howev*?rj a ltugetbo r w ithou t apprehension le»t th o wafer shou ld prove to o sluiilow, ao d bo afterw ard» adm itted , tl ia l th e re was only ju»»t sui&cicnt d e p th to perm it the free p a & s ^ o f the »Lip. L o n g bcferii •we reached the b ä r 1 was struck w ith lb « m agui- làceni appearance o f th e d is ta n t brcaliers. which, sucfreedlng I'afh o ther rap id ly , as th ey ro lk:d I i upon th e ahoro, resem blod sp irited cliargers w ith h i^ h crests, an d srhite flowing m anes com ing p roud ly in $X the end o f th e racc. T bd passage o f th e b a r waa th e w urk o f a m om ent, a a d lookin g back upon i i , i t resooibl^d a foam io^ whirlpool. E m erg in g from th e clia-anel, we en tered on an euorm ons le u g th o f swell, tb o vessel alter* nalely rid ing over a m ouktainous wave, an d £alb

N 2

ia g eom pleiely in to ft valWy^ a heavy se«, w hkli p reva ilcd only in th e jm m c^liatc oeigH bonrhood ol* th e b a r, fo r ay wo lecodod from it th e ^ t c r bccam c perfectly smooth.

O ur progress was b u t sôw, an the C ap ta in did n o t TCTtture to ap^>ly a s trong liorae.pow er to the CKgino, th e vessel h e in g sh a tte red an d unfit to n a v i ^ t e th e A tlan tic d u rin g the xvioter luonths. T h e s ta te o f th a t sh ip wa« a rem arkable instance o f th e m ischief iirieing from th e sy strtn so m uch in v o |fu e in P o rtu g a l, b u t so prejudicial to the pubhc io tcrest, o f g ra o tin g m onopolies to faToured indi- Tiduals. T b e communication! be I ween L isbon an d O porto is so frequen l. th a t th e estab lishm ent o f steam *buats w ould in all probabiU ty h av e b w n attended w ith pcifec t sucres«, h a d free com petitio n been allcw'cd ; b u t th e r ig b t o f carry ing pas* seugcrs. in vessels w orked b y steam , wa* restric ted b y tl»e G overnm ent to a sing le indiTidiial. T h e p u b b c suffered extrem ely from th is narrow policy j traTcllers, h av in g no choicc, were com pelled to avail them selves o f tbI» th e ooly conveyance ; ye t no im provem ents, an d scarccly even th e neccssary repair*, w ere m ade in it, th o p ro p rie to r being ac laa lod b y no fear o f com petition. I n conae- q n m ce , w e sp e n t no less th an th irty -th ree hours in perform ing a voyage, which h a d h cen oTtec perfo rm ed in eeren leon o r tw enty.

T h e la s t steam *packet, which r a n betw een

D sb o n an d O pof lu, w as lost, b u t th e cause o f the ftccidont h as never been foUy undcTstoo«], -m th e re waa U tile wind a t th e lim e, an d th e sea was caljo. A noble who escaped irom Ibe wrecl:, re la ted a carious anecdote o f m onkish fia tle ry connoctcd w ith th e lose o f the ship . I n th e despera tion o f th a t d read fu l m om ent w hen she struck upon the rock, m any passengers, anxicua to d iaengage them selves from tb e tim king vessel, sp ra n g in to tb e bo a ts , wbieli becam e overladen, an d w ent dow n. A few days after tliis disaster, m y friend u e t a i« ) u r t a F r ia r , who w as also in th e ship, an d h a d Hke h im eacaped th e foarfal fe te which eurprined »0 m any persons on tlie n ig h t o f th® wreck. T h e K in g in q u ired m inu te ly in to tl»o particu la rs o f an accident w hich was th e n th e g e nera l subject o f conversation. T h e F r ia r en icred in to a ll the details, an d concluded hy declaring tlia t, a t tJie m om ent w h ea th e boa ts w en t down, th e dreadfu l « r ta in ty o f approach ing d e a th was lo s t in an overpow ering sense o f lo y a lty ; and th a t an unanim ous ahout o f *• J-ong live ou r excel* le n t K in g l ’ wa« h e a rd from th e drow ning crew. T h is l i ttle im ag inary t r a i t o f devotion to the Crow n, no tw ithstand ing i t i g re a t im probabiU ty, tim e an d place considered, w as h ighly paU iab le to th e roya l h e a re r ; an d m y friend , a m an o f BcrupulouB veracity, waa h u g e ly discomfited

w hen ki» deligh ted Sovereign peqm rtd him 1« «ooftB i th e tru th cpf tliese loyal ro<^fi?ratioBa,

T h e day wna l*eiiut?ful, ®Bd ih « deck was TJTofusély ado rned w ith flovrcr« a n d odorifrroB* plaTits. 1 fell asleep tow ards Bunset, im3 did BOt fiwuke t i n K hour, wl»en I arose and paced Ih e d tck . T b e scene wa* * tr ik b g , b u t w ild and <ircM y; b lack elonds wo?o rap id ly chasing o ther oTcr th e f a « o f heaven, an d contrasted « tronglv 'wii'h ocrasional in te rv a ls o f deep*blw

upob which ih c r ta rs wpr^ sh in ing h rig h t^y : tb« im m cH nraU « wM te o f waier* obecnrcly s«eti b y th e ir dubious ao d uodistingtoshabl«from th# h u riso n ; th e süence. broken only by tho «ullcn daah © f tk c iwivee, an d Ih e sho rt, stern ca lí o f th e m en o n -duty, w ere £ ] ch'ciunstaocea fra \ig h t wHh poetic in te re s t. W e passed tbe Tock frf* 1 asbon on th r a fW noon o f -the fallowing dftv, an d anchoTfHl in the T ag u s as th o l a « beems o f tb c se ttin g su n th rew a fine glow over tbe liv e r. O u r p a sN ^ ^ from Oj>wto h ad been slow, b n t to tn ilv free from d a n g e r o t a lan n . O w p a r t / wa« 8ÍngQlíiT4y unintft'etrtingT th e o a ly personage w orthy o f ro iw d w as e F rench U dy, who, re - Voicing la rg e ly in Sowers and featlinrs, affccted a juvcrnW d eportm en t r fkrpogh som ewhat p tm ft , »he w « , bowevpp, *fT?l -pretty ; an d W nevülently d tsposcé to b e ^^pTopriofcd, CTtber w ith , o r w itk-

out, th e n u p tia l cerem ony. A t tiuioa inordi- n a tc ly sick, ehc apparen tly dcriT ed unspeakable solacc £fom tlw affectionate a tten tio n s o f two p a rro ts , Uu*« C anadian ducVa, fonr gold-fii>b> a cat. a dog, a m onkey, a n d a couplo o f Lideous m aids, who alfem ale ly U u g h c d an d w ept over

tb e ir recuaabc®t mi« treaii-

O p«niB ),' « f tb « C < ^ B ~ T b « C b « m b e » - ~ Ik r m U ig w V a A n iT » l i a Um S v M ra tu D «im U in tb * C b a i te t - ^ lW u l t« —U c U a e M / P v t y t t U am fiea— Prt>^rci* « f tb « lU r o lu t U « ~T o i ic f o f t h a C u u r t— E o i i f n t l o B o f ih « Iin p « ti« l> 9 t9__I n tw r i a vw ilb C u u o t V ills T lo t vQ b(M<d th « F h g a t« — V ia tl lo C e « t» ^ A l i i g h t ’a AdvealBrT,

A PEW days after m j arrival a t L isbon I engaged apartrooQts a t a S pan iard 's house, which was situ a ted on th e Caos A$, Sodro, an d comman<icd a sp leud id view o f th e T a ^ » , tlic Tarioiis shipping;, and tlie m o u n t ^ s beyond. T h e soutliem sun sparlclud h rig h tly upon th e w ater fo r many h o u rs in the day, an d it* setting; tin ts , though m ore subdued , were n o t less bcantiful. I n my land lo rd , who was m arried to an Englishw om an, b y whom h e h a d a very p re tty daugh ter, I recogn ised “ T h e noblest w ork o f Clod," an honest m an. A s a hnsband» a n d h h^tlier, and , iod«ed, in all relations, conduct w as 'unexceptionable: h e was j a s t to h is neighbour, obedient to th e c ^ a t- in g powers, professed no political opinions, iind received m en o f a ll p a rtie s w ith e<{ual courtesy.

O n th e 2 n d o f Ja n u a ry , 1828, I a tte n d e d the B oyal S ittin g fo r th e open ing o f tlie general

C ortes, which toolc place a t th e Palace o f A jiu la . T ho lo fa n ta J ieg en t, scarcely rc« tored to hctlU i, began hei* speech iü & lan g u id voice, congratu latin g the P e e rs a n d D ep u tie s o n the favoupable pTüspecIs o f th e Iciagdoin» a n d exliorting th em to coDtinue th e ir p a trio tic ex e rtio n s ; she deplored llie ftiilure o f th e bank , b u t tru s te d th a t c red it w ould soon re v ire ; sh e glanced at, w hat «he callcd, th e aggressive conduct o f fh c Spanish G overnm ent, b u t was g la d to s ta te th a t th e ir assurances h ad beoD la tte rly lu o rep acü ic , an d the c lia ra tte r o f th e ir policy roatcpially im proved. I n conclusion, sh e epokc o f D o n P e d ro as th e u n doubted Sovereign o f P o rtu g a l, an d declared th a t h e r younger b ro th e r D o n M iguel would speedily arrive to adm inister th e < iovem m cnt in h is nanic.

T h e suspension o f paym ents in cash by the b an k h a d occatJotied goncpal aurjm eo, an d lia d given rise to rauch an g ry diw ussion, b u t h a d no t excited th e g rea t a larm wbich such an event w ould have produced m E n g la n d , T b e l>an>, in the firs t instance, eugaged , a t th o solicitation o f Grovcrnment, fo talce on i ts own account h a lf the lo an v o ted b y the C ham bers, b u t was subsequen tly indxwcd to con trac t fo r a la rg e r proportion . T h e D iie tto rs were in consequence obliged to ex ten d th e ir issues, an d even tually became unab le to give flilvep in exchange for th e ir no te s ; y e t th ey m ig h t t a v o ansivered th o dem and in

n 3

^ I d , 'hoi ratbcT ohos* io incu r th e d iscredit uf MwpeadiPg; p ^ m e r r t altegfcthcr. th a v ad o p t tlilu « ^ i^ a b le an d ohviooB co q ik .

T h irty -s ix P ew * were prcaent a t tb e op«B »g o f tiic ij lioasfc, an d forty-c®e doclar«<3 ab sen t: ih e v eommeHc.'ed i k m labours by a sp in fed asser* t io a e f tb c ir *priTilt?ge8, And rc f iu e d to rw ognie# G enera! C ftttla as a P eer, because th e Em peror had ra ised Win to th a t dig^nity w ithout th e sane* t io n o f k h eoujwil o f s t a l e a o a c t o f prerogfatire disallow ed b y th e ObflTtCT, In ihe H o « c o f Dfj>ulies, th e law on tJie liberty o f ¿he press was b ro u g h t forw ard in t h e fiyst day* o f th e S^s«i<in. S e n b o i Sorm cm o, a m ost able epeaVor» distin- gfuished hjGieelf in the course o f th e diwuisicro, b a t som e foolish reso lu tions were passed Vy tbe h o u se ; am ong o th e r q ue itions. the pm po«ed d lri- sioD o f th e tCTTitofT, an d a p r o ^ t for fl>e aroeî* u ra tion (jf th e jud icial *j*tem , w ere debated. S oon aftrrwaxi?* a p rw lao ia tio n wm issrtcd by Ih c 1nftata< in whkrh she deplored the sacrilegious Tobberks th a t h ad tak en plitce in diife« re n t p a r ts o f th e kingdom , accom panied with InBuha to th e E u ch aris t, an d io coneluAiOR denounced T e n d a n c e o a the impiou* o f ^ d e r s .

'l l ie im peacbm ont an d t r ia l o f flie A rchbishop o f E lv as , th e M arquis t»f F ro n to ira , th e Couirt of T n ipa , an d tbe C o tm t o f Ciroha, were pcrliap* th e only p u b lic event* th a t ab o u t Ib is lim e ux-

eitod ka y g âce ra l in tè rea t. T h a e Feera w«re M cused o f people to rsvult, ando f «Dco4ragÍA|¡ certa in luaaifeeU iions o f t ^ u b - l>ean feeLnç, which took place duxiog Üic dû* order« nonsequent oa SaM anha's rctireiD ent Jcuat th e m in û try j ao aceusatton wlûcL appears to have been wiwliy uafo u ad ed . W ith respect to tb c A rchbisL op o f E lâs, the P ^ a l co«irt re- ñ v e d i u a n tiq u a te d pretensk>na, úsiw ied on i i i i to U l exeaiptkm frora <ivi\ jcrúd ictioQ , £utd a rro g a te d to i ts e lf tb e boIo r i^ ^ t o l p ru D o a o c in g ju d g m en t io Jtw caae. T id e cLiim, advanced by t¿i« L e ^ a ir . was re ie ire d te ti)e M to n i^ e d H o u se o£ Peers, w here i t was w areily advocated b y tii« C ard inal P a tria rch , tb e B isliop o f Vief'U. an d lbi$ C oun t R io P ardy , b u t n eg a tiv ed a d e r a s t o m j debate.

I v a s well acquain tod w ith F io n te ira and T aipa . an d therefore áôquentl^ otusnded Úv£ H o u se o f Poors d u rin g tbi* progroM o f tb« trial, irh ich was long-pro trac ted , b u t te rm in a te d ia tb e ir acquittal. T h e debates in l>otb houses « ere unifurm ly condactod w ith d ig n ity ; e*ya d u rin g tb c discuseion o f th e m ost raoo ttu tuus qucaitonh nieoibers never in d d g e d in thnse ÜTuly ejatula* done a iid znddoo b u i« ts o f panstun. v b ich convulse tíio Pt«3ieh C ham ber o b very triv ia i ocea> Bons. l a Spain, d u r is g th e hea t c£ th e re^'olu' tion, th e in o s i m oastroos doctrines were title rcd

w ith A ealmn«M and m odcralion lh a t form ed 8 sing\xlar contrast bclw oea th e m aile r an d the m an n er o f iLe spealcer. T h e C ondc d a Xjiiharcs, fh c C onde d a T a ip a , the CoixJe d a P u en te , and tb e Condc Han M iguel, »iiokc w ith consiJcrable U le n t in th e H o u se o f Pcerfi; and Scnhorcs Sar- m cn to and G uerrero took a. i)rom incat p a r t in th e L ow er U ouac. T h e IlouKce were oponod a t te n o’clock in th e forenoon, fo r th e dicpalch of busincBS, an d u<iually continued s it t in g till two o'clock, w liea tbe M em bers re tu rn e d hom e to dine. A b o u t th is tim e th e secret msiTiage o f llie young In fa n ta w ith th o M arquis o f Ix ju le took j,»lape, an d the nelanclio ly circuinalAnees a tte o d iu g h er dep artu re from th o k ingdom excited m uch in te re s t.

T ho prewoace o f th o UritiU i Officcrfl, th e flower o f oiu- am iy , gave an im uuual degree o f sp irit to society : my tim e was p a r tly spen t w itb them , a a d p a rtly w itb roy P o rtuguese friends, in to whose feclingfl an d opinioas I da ily gained a fu r th e r in s ig h t, T lie w in try m oatbs roDed pleasan tly away, i f w intry th ey could be called, wbicb h a d uo tliing o f tb a t inclom ent season b u t th e nam e, fo r tb c w r was constantly ^ûrm, the sky serene, an d th o sun b r ig h t . i t ro se w ith its accusfotned splendour o n the m em orable twenty* second o f F e b ru a ry ; a l« u t tw o o’elock in the afternoon, th e royal flag was seerr fly ing from all

tb e »ignal p o s ts ; an d th u n d c rm g salute* from tbo VMioua bbipping, answ ered h j ih c cannon a t tbe ca itlc , proeU irned tbe In fa n t s ajTiva!- T b e jo y occasioned b y tlu » event w as incrcaaed b y t i c fears la tte rly en te rta in ed fo r b is safety, as tb e coa*t lia d been T isited, o n tb e ly tK o f F eb ruary , b y onii o f th e m ost ireroendoas ga les o a r iv o r d ; an d h is preservatioTi w as coosidcred b y m any of hiv ad h eren ts a signal p ro o f o f tb e inlcrposi- tion o f P rovidence in b is behalf- T h a t ex trao rd inary 6torm gave U ttlc w arn ing o f i ts appi'oaxih, an d la s te d oaly a few h o u rs ; o a th a t eveiung ihc heavy clouds cast an unusual gloom, ro liered only b y vivid an d rep ea ted flashes o f l ig h tn in g ; a n d “ T h e troubled T a g u s chaiing w ith its shoreb" im m ediately l>cneath m y window, was in d eed a noble object, I saw m any o f th e maallei- craft. T id ing o n its waves, d ism asted, an d som e actually g o down am id the strife o f wind an d w a te r; a t S etuval idonc n in e teen vessels wero lost, an d tho whole line o f tlie A tlan tic coast was strew ed w ith

WTecks^T h e w estern coast o f Cornw all was ravaged

b y a tem p est equally terrific on th e 2 l s t o f F e b ru a ry , I f tW ; I happened to Le a t B ade a t the t im e ; the o ldest in h ab itan t reeoUccted no airoilar v is ita tio n ; tw o ubips w ere w rccked a t th o cnti-ince o f th e p o rt d u rin g th a t locnaorablc storm . O n th e evenin{f o f tb e 2 1st I w as accosted by a sailor

278 PMTo«Ai. j^ca. Via.

who h « i b d c f f i ^ u> tlie Toeeel wrccked i a t i e a o rm n if . h ad been « v ü d from a <beadM 'd ca ili l)y Ih e caaA aned «»ertiooe o f ib c fé o p fe t i B u d e : weak « d e£h&a6tcá, h e b a d craw led Ui a ü r e Id cd io d in a 'blatkom ith 's Bh«p. on th e v n y e d g e o r d ie Bca, a n d w as a t th a t zn ^ ao c l w&tchf in g . w ü h an iitie ie» t no iatcn&c th a n miae, Üie progreaa o f aftoü ier tcsäo I t i c a rap id l) IôacduDg th e lia rb ín ir; an d w«£ o£ering u p idoiA ^carueirt wj«hc8 fu j ih c d e l i \e r» n « c i liis» bro ther aeaiiiexi ifoo i 'ikc eajiie ragw ig '» a tu » which Jtad * o lUÄziy OTgulphed b im * few hoiow bcfcre, H c t(Jd m c ih a t, in t)ic cuursc o f a lo a g nava] hft?, h e u n lj Tcm em bered ono Btorm o f equal b o tro r ; the atorra Ic which I h a v i been j use allu d in g , w hieh b ad la v a g e d the coast o f Pori»* g a l, five j»ears before, almiMt on th e aß»iv*cT«ry <jf Üiat day . H o h » d th en bt*«i v re c k e d fcff the firs t tim e, an d uow re lu m e d i^ e ig n o d Uianki< to «h a t A lm ig lity B c iag , who h a d t \ t k e s tro tc l^ d fo r th hia h an d to iulto, an d h ad bom ^ h im m»- harm ed th ro u g h two such learfijl v is ita tic « . A ji wo were a till qêaking, t i e v^reel, tJiat was f a th e r ru sh in g th a n sa ilio g loír, th c b a rb o o r , impelled by a foriouB wind, passed the m oat dan* ¡Tciouji p o ia t iu s a fe ty ; b u t while we were exult* m g a i h e r a p p a e n t eawape, sh e roddcmly deviaWd from the r% h t track an d »track upon aume bidden rock&> cloBc to th e ship w hich li«d been stran d ed

% fpw liOOT* tr fo rc . I t aftervraid* a p p ea tea Üiat •ihc crew. im »cqtta in led w ith ih c p o rt, h i à r a » Ukcm, in th e gloom o f th e e v ttâ n g , the bJftcà h u lk ô f Ih e stT ïiidod ahip fo r the pk?r, *nd h adBOt diacc»v<Ted t t d r m à ta k e tiU th e m iadiiel'wa« irrem ediable. T h e »ituation o f th o se pi>or n>cn

awful TO th o ex trem e: m stcad oi'Ch« fnerwlly «bclior ftoticipated "btit a momieiit beibre , th e j saw , rmmedifttoly b e c d e them , *n ap p a l^ n g ftroof o f th e violence oi* th e ga le « a d th e inaecurity of ih e ir own »ttuaüoii ; a apectaelo th fit « a ro c d lhc*m o f th e rcoent fa te o f o thers, an d aeemed a d rn a r j jiTchide to tb n ir own. F o r souio hoar» they confidently expected dea th , an d -when the recediog tid e p e rm itted th e peop le o f B ude t o a^ç^roach them , tlisy were oTerwhohned w ith an d «Mo- irishmon t . T h e crcvri o f h o th veaaela were aaved : th e fii«t b y g rea t ciertionB , an d w ith g rea t difficulty , the »ecoDd crew by a furtuikatc accident, lo o detitilrd m ife character ic» insertion h ere : or, 1 sL ^ ü d TAthcr say, b y an in tcrpoaiiiou o i Hro- Tidence in th e ir behalf, for as th e t id e was nearly fA ilâ h e ig h t. 710 hum an a id could h a \e boon cx* ten d ed lo thorn a t th e m oraent w hen th t^ struck upon the Tock. I t w as a s c « e o f w ild an il alioost tm ih le eicftom cm t. A fire w » kindled upon tbe heights, w hile th e fu ry « f th e w ind an d the o f tbe w aters dro^vned th e m e e s o f th o sailors on

th e p ier, b u t could no t p rev en t th e ir passionate gesticulaiion*, as tliey Iw hcld tb e r e is c l s tr ik in y upon tlie ro c k a . an d knew th a t dea th w as «taxing th « ir shipwrecked b re th ren in tb o face. B u t i t is b ig h tim e to leave th e coast o f Cornw all an d re* tu rn to th e shorca o f th o T ag u s .

T b e Inftints» proceeded to th e royal frig a te to receive tb e ir 'fcwothcr, b u t w bon b e s a w thoin a p -

p r o a c i u D g b e sp ran g in to a b o a t , an d em braced tiiem w ith tears o f affection. A s b e landed , tbe soldiers cried o u t ' L oo g live th< In & n t!” the people rep lied w itb ‘'v iTas’' fo r the abso lu te K ing . A t th e P a lace o f A ûda h e w a s welcomed h j hia M other. F a llin g u p o n one kneo ho im p rin ted tlie mo6t ferven t k isses on 3ier hand , and said, tak ing from liis bosom an im age o f the V i i^ n o f th e m ck. “ B t'hold tb ie relic, y o u r p a r tin g g ift. M other, you see before you th e some ch ild you lo s t in 1 8 2 4 .' F ro m th a t m om ent th e roya l a tte n d a n ts knew th a t h is political tendencies were unaltered , h e r influence over b i s m ind unim paired, &nd th e fa te o f tb e C lia rtc r sealed. In th e evening tlie paU ce w as su rrounded b y peop le sh o u tin g fo r the abso lu te K in g , T h e ofliccr on d u ty se n t a m essage to the In fa n ta "Regent re q u ir in g in^truclions, an d offering to d isp e rw t i c c row d; buE h e r Royal H ig h n ess referred th e m essenger to th e In fan t, saying» "B ro tiie r M iguel, you hear." ‘ L c t i t

pasH, ” repHr<l th e lo ran t, and th e people, em- boblened by hia obvious ii})prob&tion, re ite ra ted th e ir shouts.

T h a t n i^ h t th o c ity was brilliiLnlly illuiDinateiL O n th e following Ja y D o n M igue l rep a ired to the C a th ed ra l; ag a in h e was g ree ted w ith “ vjvaa" fo r th o abso lu te E in g , m ore generally a n d vehe* m cn tly e rp ro e se d ; an d som e soldicret who a t- te iop tod tu stifle tho se cries wore severely re proved. I conversed w ith some C oastitu tionallsts in th e evening, an d even th en th ey w ere g rea tly d isp irited , an d p red ic ted th e overthrow o f tho C ouscitution. T ho In fan t's atnbiguous rep ly to Iho V ortugucsc depu ta tio n in L ondon, h is actual encouragem ent o f tho rio ters, and th e absence o f an y proclam ation, were ju s t ly considered 9a no s lig h t indications o f Lis rea l feeling». D o n M igu e l’» in ten tio n o f tak in g ih e o a tli to th e C ons titu tio n wiw, however, know n on th e following m orning, an d revived th o d roop ing hopca o f the Im peria l party .

I repa ired on the 2 6 th o f F e b ru a ry to th e g rea t saloon o f the A juda . T h o P eers , a ttire d LTie fiom an senators, occupied th e fron t bonche« on th e r ig h t h a n d ; im m ediately above sa t th e P ee resses. am ong whom th e C ountess o f V illa F lo r ao d th e C ountess o f A iv« w eie undoub ted ly the m ost d istinguished b y th e ir personal atti'aclions th e D eputies w ere ra n g e d a lo n g tho betiches o r

tb e le ft kxnd, a n d âe space aber»« was reserved fu r atrdDgers. A t u ee o’clock D on ('tite re d the BôoQ> accom päiiied by bi» aiatera. T b e liifa irU f ie § e s t sea ted hoTsolf OQ t i e tk ro u e ; tb o P rin ce a t 6n rt stood b y k e r tm der th e roval CASopj; b u t ta ld n g W n £ii2nilifi4;f h y tb e arm sLe fimcod h a a to orcdpy p a r t o f b er d a rin g

o f ib e ^ e e c h . ^3ie e x p re ^ e d )ict eiflcere deaire ib r tb e w eliare o f i k i C harter, aod aaeurcd h e r b e a r a s o f tb e sp c ig h t in ten tiüos w hich b a d nnifonn} J Rctuatcd h er conduct i a tb e « d m iustra tioQ o f th e G ovecm zieat; an d o f (hd p le a ra re w ith v b k h lUe n o v ts a g n c d ¡1 in tv ber brother*» h a n d i. S he waa fre^ven lly inieTrTi|>ted ~bj ahonta procxtodiDg from the fO urt boloT, «ad bo r volee waa ^ co e s$ cM opIctsly Icrst iath e claioour, tb a t ih c vaA ob liged to p«u»e ; upuu which Qi«casioc J)oB M igiie l’t» fla»bm g eyes g a re iadicfttkm s u f t h a t impftCiest tem per '» lu d i h ^ cbaractcrizrd hixB from h is earliest je a ra . H av ing concluded h e r »{>eech she arose, an d re tir in g f r o a tk e throoe, which sh e a p p e a le d to n s i g a w ith the u to ioat cbfifrfnlteatt a a d good hum oor, sW p lv e d b eraelf h e r tts te r , an in tercatin g yooDg peraoB. 8csii(wi o n th e r ^ b t h a n d bench immctjia.tcly abo\*c th e Peeresses.

T h e w ritten o a th ftdherenee to th e C h arte r m m tlien jaroseated to th o In & a i, wbo r e g a r d ^ i t w ith sppskreiit (xafusion, an d eosoicd unable

o r UBwilliDf to re a d k ; &t Hie a&mo tirrK tb e D a k c d e CafLsral drew nc»r vnth & missal to ad* urioifl«T d tc o * th ; b u t )ue Excelk«ey 'B mde< spre&dmg n a n tU to t^& etually eoncealod th e l i i ^ t frcm t i e gtmcTftl o b sm u rio ii, t l ia t i t yrm iBipcwibW to SCO kisB tbe Sftcred Book, or h e a r b iie prooouDCC I )» e o le a s v o rd s. 1 wtA n o t h r from tb o BoyftJ p a rty , b itt cannrK ^ v e scnj decided ofan ic« upun tb a t m uck debeted po in t, wbetkcT D o n M ig w l really m eat th rough , g r evadod th e form s p reeo n b cd M any oi* hie «dhereiit» docl&red thon , And s till assert, th a t he o e itb c r repeatod fh e wcffd® nor k » « ed th e book; a n d tbe lu f a c t biiDSoU ia said to kavo a u n ie d hi« fn\*our)te Durso, oo t ^ Burtc day , th a t in M iVrerl' zng tlie C h arte r lio ^ u l d in c u r tto m oral guilt, a s b e b ad n o t b o und h iiw e lf b y a n j o a th tu m alnlftin i t

T b o cereuiociy bem jj ncrw ooaopleted. hc^walked tow ards tb e g rea t folding doors a i th e extrcm iiy <rf* th e ball, betw een the P ee rs an d B eputie» Banged on b o th « d c s ; b tft suddenly paused mid- Tray, a n d rocoUeetiiig t b a t h e h ad le ft b is tts te r. th e In fa n ta K cgcnt, b e rW orrtcd, an d le d hc9 down th e saloon. I>UTii>g tb e whole proceeding •Don M tguel’s countenance was o rercast, a iid he h ad th e ciinstxained m anner o f a m o6t unwilling actor Tn an em barrassing p a r t . I re a d th e ap- ^Toeching fa te o f th e Confftitution in tb e sullen

expression o f h is countcu&nce ; in th o im perfect m ami or in which th e o a th w as adm inialered, and in tb e s trango an d gieneral appearance o f h u rry ao d coDCOâlment. T h ia opinion was so mnch increased hy h is h a s ty d e p a rtu re from th e saloon, w ith o u t M ttering a sing le w ord confirm atory of h is now ob ligation , th a t, u n d e r the s trong iioprcs- eion o f th e m om ent, I o b se n ed to an offioor stan d in g n e a r mo, T h is is su re ly ominous h e ropiied, •‘Poor boy , b e is only shy.” 1 b eg an lo d o u b t tho justice o f m y suspicions, b u t in th o even ing they re tu rn e d w ità a ll tlie ir orig inal force. Y e t. in sp ile o f sym ptom s so d iscourag ing to th e ir cause, tlie Im peria lis ts began agalis (o ind u lg e in san* g u iñ e anticipation», an d tb e city wa« brillian tly illum inated th a t n ig h (; b u t the ap po ia tc ien t o f a Corcunda, o r u ltra B oyaliet m in istry on th o follow ing m o in ing , destroyed tb e ir hopes, and placed th e re a l in ten tions o f th e In fa n t in th e clearest lig h t.

A crisis was foreseen, a n d conscqucutly the panic on tb c E x ch an g e wa» iw iuense ; commercial trausdclions w ere sus^Hmded, a n d in th e public xnind there w as a general m isglviug. an undeGnod alarm , a certa in ty o f com ing change, a fearful looking forw ard to tb e issue o f events. N o circum stanccs w orthy o f record occurred d u rin g tlie n e x t lew days, b u t g roups continued to OHsembla an d shout fo r tb o abso lu te K in g ; an d these pro*

C H . V I I I . ] TO M U LT S rN TliK T A L A C ^ 2 8 &

ceedioga v c rc opeoly eocoura |tcd persons v ith in th e ^>aUce, w to appeared a l ih a window», jo ia e d m t)unc “ vivaa," an d w aved white hand- lc«rcbief» i a t o k o D o f th e ir c o rd i^ approbation. B u t th e evening o f th e 1 s t o f M arch wa* m arked b y bcriods tum u lts i an d th e s tra n g e selection o f tim e an d placc, fo r th e pe rp e tra tio n o f those out- n ^ s , was perhaps th e m ost ex traord inary fea tu re o f a ll th o se ex traord inary tracsactioos. T h a t evening w as fixed on fo r th e p resen ta tion o f certa in em ic e a t persons, a n d m any others availed them selves o f th a t opportu o ity to rep a ir to th e palace, an d offer th e earliest tr ib u te o f th e ir hom age to the I n f a n t ; b u t th e ir astonishm eut wife ex trem e w hen th e y found th e inner courts o f tb e .palaoc, an d tlie flig h t o f s tep s lead ing in to th e b a ll o f th e A rcher s G u ard , com pletely occupied b y a lawless m ob. T o such an ex ten t was th e p o p u la r fecU rg a t th a t tlino i a favour o f D o n M iguel, tb a t ovcry ind iv idual who ente r t^ n e d C onstitu tional opinions, however m odera te , was assailed. T h e C ard inal P atriarcli was com pelled to nxake th e s ign o f tl ie C ross, to call dow n heavenly blesftlng:^ on th o cxcitcd people, a n d to jo in in th e a j o f “ D ow n w ith tho C h arte r.” F o rtu n a te ly , C oun t V illa F lo r was ab»ent, fo r th e m ob expcctcd h im w ith im patience, an d b a d sw orn Co take h is life ; b u t G en era l C aula

w as te r c r f ly woen«lcd. tu d tb e C oun t d a CuDhe w as only rescued ^ r a aMa6«Diktion h j mmb« oiBecrs. wh« drew th e ir swords to p ro tce t h im in tiie palace itself.

TK« tum uU was s» g i ^ t tlu it the addre»« from tk o M adem y, whicli th e Secrrt&ry was a t th a t tim« readinf^ to th e In fan t, eoalA be acdreelj heard by any o f th e su rro u cd isg cuurliers. Y o t the Lnf«nt was unzDoved^ an d w uuld a o t, o t perhapa could n o t, re s tra in those omtragow p:rpeti*atod on h is an d w m m itted in h ia own palaoc. 'J'hein d i^ H fit troops, coiopcllcd to en d are pd^sivriy th e insu lts heaped upon th e ir olEwrs, m anifested th e ir unabated a ttachm en t to t V Impcrift) caus«

p lay ing D o a P ed ro ’s b y iw , du rin g the g rea lcr p a r t o f eoso ing oig lit, under th e w indowi of th e A juda. A t th is critical period S ir W illiam A ' C o u it, now L o rd H ey tesbury , ooe o f the best diploniatista th is coun try ever produced, le ft Por- tugaJ^ being appo in ted tc» th e C ourt o f St, Peltinh h u ^ .

O n th e 7 th < ’ M arcli, C oun t T a ip a m ade an eloquent speech, and m oved th a t M ioijiter» be sum m oned to e x p la » ib e causes o f Iht* rec'vnt tu m u lt a. I m e t h im th a t ev rm n g a t the Opera» in C 'ount V illa F W s b o x ftnd b e th en d early ibresaw th e approaching down£il o f the Const!' tu tio a . C oun t V illa F lo r wai» depressed, an d the

e o c v ic ^ n ()\at sM kl» n i l i ta ry efSbrts d u rin g thÊ procoding y c a j h ad }>c*n crf no avail, v e ig b c d tm v ü y u p o a h b n in d .

T h re e <Iajs afterw aids 1 d iaed v i th She M a rquis o f F rrm tsira , a t b is n c h h siam iioa near B enilica; i'ke diaÎng-?uom i« Iruly roagm âceot, tb e carving ô ch , th e h c l ^ t im posing ; i t ia V»uiit ifi th e o ld style, and g raced witb a ü a e hcroic 'bas- re lie f u f th e f i ’sC chivaltous M arquis o€ F ro n te ii^ O u r p a r ty co n asted o f the B ritish Commanclnr of tb c Fore«« S ir W iUUro ClintOB. ao d b is M ilitary Secretary Colonel TIare, tb e C oun t a a d C<AinCcM o f V illa F lo r, th e Couati o f A tva, a a d h i« yotiog* d a u g h te r 'in-law , th e b c a u t i^ l an d iinBfEberrd C ountess « f A lra , th e C o u a t o f T a ip a , tb c C oun( o f P u en te , D o n C ark« , an d o u r noble boat an d boMte««. I allvidc partim ilariy to th is p « t y « 'bccaaae i t w as chiefly com^KJsed o f m en who playi^d a pro» m ineo t p a r t d u rin g th a t eventfu l friais ; boeause i t was ih e la s t a«t o f h o ^ i t a l i ^ I reecivcd m y P ortugueae friends a t L isbon, and, s till m ors, because i t was th e k s t tim « th e y m e t in tb c rr f la ttre land a round th e festive bcwrd, fcv, bvfor« th ree day« h ad elapsed, th ey voec exiles, a n d a t sea. T ld s w m a t r ia l hour in d eed ; tho ir long dcawmdcd ran k was bcTWcfirrtb to b e dented , th e ir p riv ileges aanuU ed. th e iï po^scm ions coeflacatcd ; even th o se ancient h a lls i a w hich were th en s ittin g for th e U a t t i n e ; thoeo h a lls in h e r ite d

from a lo n g lin e o f artccstors, v e re passin g away from tlxc ru le e f tlie ir line&l lord.

T>arÍDg d in n er n o allusion w as m ad e lo public eyenta, b u t afterw ards tb e p a r ty divided in fo separa te groups j th e c o n T c rsa t io n w as now carr ie d o a b y th e m en in a lowi b u t calm T oicc , an d th e da rk em ag prospcct« o f ih e country , which engrossed th e ir thouglite , bocam c the o n ly sub* je c l o f discussion. T h e y knew th e ex ten t o f tho crisis, th ey fe lt the m agnitude o f th e d a n g e r ; they b ad m ain tained D o n F ed ro 's caaac w ith unshaken fd e lity , an d w ere in consequence exposed io the resen tm en t o f the actual G o vernm en t; th a t Go» T cm m cnt w as ^ v a n c in g b y ra p id stride« to tbe estab lishm ent o f abso lu te £>ower, an d h ad a lready dismi&sed from the arm y m any ofEccrs o f m odera te opinions, a n d h a d sup|>Ued th e ir p laces by persons dev-oled to th e court. T h e y knew th a t the vengeance o f 3>on M iguel w ould b e directed ag a in s t them selves, w hen th e changes th e n in p ro g rc is shou ld b e com pletely elToctcd, an d the court b e enab led to s trik e th e b lo w securely. T bey were s till unm olested, i t is true , b n t th e irs w as a hollovr pcacc, a treacherous q u ie t; th ey s lc ji t upon gunpow der, a n d were well aware th a t tlie m atch would b e applied a t thü f iu io g moment.

W ish in g to d iv e rt th e m inds o f h e r g u ests fi om th e heavy sense o f im pend ing calam ity, th e M ar < chioness o f F ro n tc ira p laced h e rse lf a t th o piano,

ftTtd play<*d a lirc ly ftir; b u t tiiough h er ta s te an d execution w ere equally ad m ijrd , i t sf^rined as i f very music w as infected b y th o ocU n* cLoly o f the t im e : an d bke—-

" 1 1 ) 9 p n f l i s c d M ira tn :) '« e t n i o ,T b a t . O iaM bîea l • ( t h e n l i ,W tul*!! li>ud th r o v f h b A n w t d b tU .Kia Ui ruic dri*oo<Vice^ a r i i t d f tu m ib v i t MAitve bcareB >"

even SO ! ie r notes, a a i f prop h e tic o f ap])roar'hing woo, fe l l h c a ^ l y upon a silen t room a lifc lca»

auditfDce.O n th e follo^^ng; m orn in g fresh changoe were

annoumCiV T h e C oun t o f V illa D o r was <iia- n 'isaedlVuin th e m ilitary G y rem iu en t o f A icnlejo. th e C<«int o f Alva, from th e Algarvef?, Ih e M ar- (juia o f V aV nra from the T ra3 os M ontes, the Coxint o f J-nm iares iiom th e M inho, a rd S ir T hom as S tubbs Irom O p o rto ; an d th e ir a|>|>oint- m eate were givun to th o adheren t« o f th e u ltra-

p arty . T h e M arquis o f O H rtos and tlie chicft? la te ly in a rw s ag a in s t ih e G ovom m ont w<Te re ta iled . 1 do no t blam e th o ir recall, b u t th e procecdingB ag a in s t th e Im|>eriiili9t« were, to ih e bust degree, im |>olidc; fo r every m easure ten d ed to prfvlnce a otrugglo, an d every ciicum- stance showed th a t a day o f active conflict w as ai hand.

O n th e 12th o f M arch th e panic waa a t its h e igh t am ong tho Im|>erialiBtt», an d th e M iguol-

T O t.. I . 0

iifta were seareoly los6 alarm ed. Bio P ardo , a decidcd A bso lu tift, and then M in ister o f the W ar D ep artm en t, tcrrilicd a t th e rap id ity w ith wliich the wheel o f rcTolutioD wa« ruvolx'ing, exclainjcd, “ W e have dono in a week w hat could n o t h a re been ufiecl<.'d, w ith 8af«?tv> in a year." I Iu waa an a bio m au, and knew the d an g er o f th e crleit. S p irited an d even fiercc discussions h ad taken pla/ê in th e C liam bers; an d the niiUUa an d the regu lar trooîs were unifi*d, alm ost to a <tu»d, in th e ir opposition to th e G o rcm m en t. W henever tlie In&ini appeared in public, they s tru ck u p the national hv m n : the C ourt, iu conse<|uenfte, forbade i t to b e p la v e d ; the o rd er w as eom plied w ith, bu t Uabhes o f reseu ltnen t b roke fo rth am ong the troops, and they d id no t scruple to dcclarc th a t the oppressive m easures th e n in progress should r<«oil on th e oppressors.

r saw a detachm ent o f the C a lad o res drawn u p in line a t the O pcra-honsc. T h e ir Colonel had been ju s t Ku^>erseded; th e u su a l expriission of pood-huniour no lo n g er irrad ia ted th e ir features ; b a t th ey stood n i t l i lowering countenancos, p re se rv ing a gloomy silence. P robab ly th e m em bers o f th e ud iu in lstra tion h ad no alternative in the course w hifh th ey pursui*d: as a d ism asted ship is driven upon th e b reak ers b y an uncontrollable tem pest, so th e G overnm ent, deprived o f its b e lte r ju d g m en t, was conipülled to a d o p t these

perilous expedients, b y th e w crc t b a t pow erful influence o f a iaoaCictd pTieat, an d tlie fran tic en e rg y o f i t c Q ueen-m othei,

T h a t ex trao rd inary person posbebBcd abilities a n d lim nesB o f p u rp o « , tlia t, u n d er b e tte r w - ^ la t io i i , m ig h t liave le d to a ll th a t w as jjuod an d g rea t. S bc I iemI been foolishly insu llcd hy Ihc C ortes o f 1820,’an d tJic sense o f in ju ry was not appeased, in h er vindiotive m ind, b y th o over throw o f the offending parliam ent, b u t every n\o dificadon o f th e reprc*eutative system bocame afterw ards hatel'ul in h e r sigh t. S he organized conepirai'ieB a ^ n s t th e C h a rte r in every p a r t o f th e ktngdoin, an d com inuiucatcd w ith tlie consp ira to r« ; she originated, m atured , an d carried CTcry d espera te m easure in to eie«?ution; her w ord was law, h e r sm ile prom otion ; she s<jme- time* |>ersnadod, som etim es ia tim ida ted h o r in capable s o n ; she snatclied the ru d d e r from his feeble grasjt, and, w ith a furious h u t nn t unste;i«!y hand , steered oii>eard to th e destined p o in t, re jec tin g tlie safer, b u t m ore circuitous pa th , and uaap p a lled by th e tem pest g a th e rin g ro u n d her

I>on M iguel in th e m ean tim e re tu rn e d , hke »neasterD monarch, sh u t u p within the w alls o f h is palaec, an d re fu sed to p a rtak e o f any food th a t was n o t p rep ared b y h is M th lu l an d fav ourite nurê. i^ o r w ere h is apprehension« g ro u nd less; b y a m ore eonciliating pobcy h e

o 2

m ight have eventually a e tu r e d the b i g h ^ t object o f his ainbitioT). an d liavc p ro la b ly governed with und ispu ted au th o rity ; b u t th e im pobtic violence o f h is conduct p roduced a c o T r« rp o n d iu g spirit o f res is tan ce ; an d uoforoseen events alone p re vented, a t th a t je r io d , th e redaction vvkich mi^he have b een expcetcd in tiie actual tem jrer o f tl»e troops.

I t was eaid. an d I believe tru ly , th a f an exlen* sive conspiracy was o rgan ized un d er the direction o f a secret corm«itt©e, b u t w as rendered abortiTo b y peculiar clrcuiasttincos D o n M iguel stood a t th a t tim e on th e b rin k o f » precipice. X ever, in any j>receding period o f P ortugueac history, liad a P rinee o f tl»o U u u ro o f B raân za been involv*ed in g rea te r a n d m ijre im m inent p e r i l ; h u t m apito o f h is ac tual d a n g e r h e succeeded lor th e m om e n t ; 'a short-lived succcm, n o t p roduced by p ian s wisely conocivrd an d g rea tly executed, nor y e t the offspring o f tb a t s tead y foresight, wliich calculates <*n th e stu o n in g effects p roduced by vigorous measurcB following eacb o ther in rapid succession; nor o f th a t considerate eoxirage which parries unshrink ingly in to execution th e daring acU dispassionately reso lved on as a t once the b o ldest an d th e w isest {KjUcy. T h e Heeling triu m p h o f th e cou rt was the rebuH o f unreflectin g passion, aided b y a fortunate com bination o f causes over w hich i t h ad n o control, an d it*

ultiiflatc fa ilu re wa* tlie «ilmost certa in rc*u!t o f apQ liey »h iclt o u trag ed th e feelings, no t o l llit people gCTjeraH/* b u t erf tho6C wlio h ad curms io th e ir b an d s ; and who, baffled, i t is t iu e , in the first h o u r o f su rp rise an d alckrm, h a d )*ct evcn- tuaUy, ft« eircumatancci« h a re eincc p ro red , the ^ (* a t ijuesticn in th e ir decision*.

W hen !><m M iguel arrived in Porluffal, he found h is au tho rity ra th e r nim iinally th an p rac tically controlled by th e estA blishm cnt o f th e C h a rie r , d ivested as i t was o f any very jx ipular te n dencies, a n d essen tia lly jm stocratw in its e lem ents. A n en ligh tened or even a Bclfiah view o f Ids re a l in terest* should h a re c ia d e h im cUog to th a t C h a rte r ; upon tlia t C h a rte r h e should have lavished o rery ou tw ard m a rk o f respect, ib r under th e actual com binalion o f parlies, an d in tlie actual Cemp’r o f th o people, it could have form ed no re a l barrier ag a in s t any d etc im ined exerlioa of the royal p re ro g a tiv e ; ye t v»oald hftve enabled him to eíTccf, w ithout incurring personal odium , thoec T tfotm s which had Lecome absolutely essen lia l to the p iosiw rity o f th e sta te , an d to the stab ility o f his G overnm ent.

I t is tru e th a t a t th e period in question the* A b o u t t h i s t i m e , »ubM qu«ntly , I b S A ta e d I h c po licy p u t*

9u«l, on «« rtMin b7 out Aint«M»áciT, S i r FrvA^rick l^cob.I m u * t /cHokly *dm it t h a t , m t h a t rc sp ec l, 1 « a * c o m p k te ly iu e r rv T , f o r I U m o » u l y a \ » á tú a l k m v M ^ e « ( n r s n U .

national feeling very genera lly ÍDcline<í to tlw ancien t ru le ; fo r a lthough tlie PortnguebC G o rc ra - raeo l Lad been fo r age* despotic in form , it had y e t in practice l i« in juUd an d pa te rna l. B ut a lth o u g h the m anifest sym pathies o f ih c people w ith th e old order o f th ings iodui.'ed m any persons Ut hclieve tlia t th e resto ra tio n o f th e absolute «yslern o n a stab le hasis was h y n o m eans iui* practieable, still, b en ea th these favourable ap pearances, there were sym ptom s in th e l*ody politic which led th e ra lm an d uoprejndiecd observer to in fer tl ia t the L est chance o f preserv ing th e old inutitu tions o f tLe eonntry wa» to bn found in an honu^t recoijnition o f the C h arie r o f I T o every m an who looked beyond th e surfece, it was endcD l tlia t, unie»» cuusiderahle changes were in troduced in to tLe ûnaneial an d o tL er d ep a rtm ents, th e wa8f<*fkjl expend itu re o f the public m oney coiild n o t he checked, ih e dÍ8(»rdet o f the finances, th en yearly increasing, would continuo to augm ent, and, in th e oritical » ta le o f parties, a lm ost inevitably term inate in po |n ilar revolution. IiU em al revolutions arc, a t present, w ith few exceptions, u llim aiely referrih le to one and the sam e cause. T h e eircum stances wldch im ioediately produoc the change vary indeed in different states, according to th e d iflcren t eharacter, hab ita, aud condition o f th e people, b u t alm ost every révolu-

tion in our owu limcM is ultbrkalcly rcfcirib le to eoibariUHStucnt« connected willi tlie re>'cnue. In state» th a t Lave undcrg«ine th e fiery ordeal of rcvolufiim , i t w ill l>e generally fin in d th a t diffi* oultics o f finance were n o t otily an accom|)anyiiig eym ptoic, b u t ofUm a very eilicient caiiBO o f tho n ational m alady, and havo n o t u n fro ju en tl) p re ceded fo r a long tim e th e crisi» o f the disease.

A rortujjiiOMO m onarch, r<*iying for su p p o rt ex* clusively on the A bsolute p arty , could bard ly have Fontured to iutcodace reform 0 p rejudicial to the in terest« o f m any o f t i s p a r t iuan&. howcTer esseo- t i i J to th e Mifcty o f fh c s ta te ; b e m igh t, perhaps, have corrected tb e abuse* whicli dLîigurcd tiic judicial syHteni, b u t ho (S>v\d hard ly liave abo- bijhod tiiii gross m onopolies wliich th eu pervaded tb e kiogdom , cheeked tlie developm ent o f tbe nalio tia l industry , an d p reven ted tlie im provem en t o f th e revenue : b u t b ) m eans o f th e Cliani- bere he m ig h t have eaaily carried in to eifect the necessary im provem ents ; th e p a rtia l iinjKipula* r itv i*esultiiig from those chaoges vrould have been Uomc by th e legislature, wliile ib e advan ta g e would have b een reaped no t only b y th e people b u t also h y tlie Sovereign. D im M iguel m igh t, a t th a t i>€riod, have aCixed liis own bm ils lo every m easure o f change,—a pow er seldom enjoyed by tb o H e a tl o f tb e sU lc in periods of active transition . T h e C h arte r o f I82 ii an d the

C iia rte r o f 1834, though eescDtially tJu? same, w e « calculated to p ro d u w very different rt'sull». T h« C h arte r overthrow n by D o n M iguel could n o t, I tM nk, >iavc boon d e trim cn lid lo th e cstabKsbed iD terusts o f the country, a t a tiin e w hen an im« meu&ti m ajority o f tlic uatioo w trc a ttached to liis ¡»oruoo an d th e aC ron^h o f lus adheren t* wa« u n broken ; b u t i t was frau g h t w ith ru in to m any o f those interest« , v^hen im posed on a defeated people b)' a p « ity th a t h ad ou tstripped th e luoderatioo o f th e ir early leadcFb, tlia t was Hashed w ith »uc- cees, an d trlau iph iin t o tc t every obstacle oi>poscd to tlie gratification o f th e ir wii»he». B u t in IB28 the C h a rte r u aa an engine wlucli would have obeyed the sllglite*t im pnlso o f Ihe tnaste r-m in d ; a g roa t m ajority o f th e H o u ^ o f P ee rs were d e voted to h im ; the represen tative assem bly would have been m oulded to h is will, an d thus, I believe, u n d er th e p ro tec ting saoction o f the popu lar f<>rms, h© would have arqu irod a m ore re a l aulho- Titv, an d :t iDore effective cororaund over th e re- »ourc<;s o f h is country , th a n liad ever feUen to tbe lo t o f any P rin ce o f the H o u se o f B rag ao za u n d er th e old despotic ru le . H a d th e C h a rte r been re* sp ec tf^ , th a t species o f au tho rity which, however g ra tc iu l to th o caprices, is unkctportant to the solid pow er o f th e m onarch, could indeed h a re U 'e n n o loDger exerc ised ; th e nobles coidd not have been k e p t in a s ta te o f tu te lage , Iheir p r o

pertioB an d fam ily honours would no t liave re m ained dependen t on t}ie vrill o f ih c C ou it, nor would individuals in any ran k o f life bave Ix cn HftWc to a rre sl a t ih o inere fia t o f a m in is te r ; but tb a t pow er o f vailing fo rth an d w ielding the »»- lional resource# wliich constitu tes th e re a l atreuffth o f » go rern m en l, an d should alone b e coveted in th e p re sen t d ay by an en lig h ten ed sovereign, would, J th ink, bave been considerably augm euted. B uf i f thus view o f th e caae h a d proved in the re su lt erroneous, an d b e h a d eventually discu- vered th a t tb e new C onsliiu tion w as pracUcally i£Com|iatible with a fair exercibc o f ih o royal p re rogative, D o n M igue l m igh t, oven tben , 1 ajn e'en* vinoed, by personal Ci^ncilialior, an d b y a gradual succebSion o f cautious m etiiures, have ultunately rem oved every obnoxious priv ilege, w ithou t incurr in g any re a l h a z a rd ; for am ong the Portuguciô, w ith whom the love o f Ulwrty is o f recen t date, an d altogether subord inate to their beredilary sense o f loyalty, th e C onstitu tion w as no t sufficiently ro o ted in liie h ca ris o f the people, o r of any in fluen tia l o rd er in th e sta te , to bave in te rfered w ith the a ttachm en t whirh would have soon grow n u p for a y oung an d popu lar Prince.

A pr® dial insurrection is usuall) pro<luced by $otne generBl an d pervad ing cause o f discontent, b u t men in a h ig h er ra n k o f lilc arc influenced a t t i l tim es, a n d especially d u rin g periods o f in-

o 3

(e ro a l commotion, \>y m otives o f a m ixed nature. U nqiiestioD ablj. florae o f D on M i^ e V a opjx>- neot» wefo stauTip}i a Jlie ren ls o f th e Oh&Hcr: b u t m any, wLo becam c determ ined enemies, would have qu ie tly axxjuiesct^d io his duthority, if th e im politic luoasurcs o f h is G ovem m ent lia d no t it*a* de red euhmission m ore ^ r i lo u s th a o reeiHtancc. B y dcclariog open war ag a in s t tlie C onstitution, and , btill m ore, h v th e unm casureri denim ciations o f th e C o u rt against th e C onsU tutionalists, he drove in fo com plete iB»urrcetion no t only thobC who w ere ujictiTely attaclxed to th e C h arte r, bu t att who had , from various reasons, eaL sted u n d er i ts banners d u rin g the p reced ing year, wlien C onstitu tional principle* w ere s till iu th o ascendant. M any o f tliese would have adop ted , w ith li ttle re luctan te , a eystw u m ote congenial to Ids view's. If th e ir rctrciat h ad been ren d ered eas>, i f a p ru d e n t veil Iw d b een throw n over th e p a s t, and th e new re ign had b een UBhcretl in by the p ro spec t o f a len ien t and im partia l rule, “ Tros T y n - luoe m thi nvlio d u c r i m i n ^ ngctur/' was a maxim which (Jiould have l)een graven m le tte rs o f gold upon Ih e royal tab let, an d should have uniformly influenced D o n M iguel s political ccm doct; b u t, by d iv id ing th e nation in to tw o fierce an d hostile factions, h e evoked again et liis G overnm ent every varied principle o f action which could sway ih e m inds o f h is (»îponentB. t i e sliould have allowed

Ib e diatm ctions o f p a rty to have b len d ed ioseii* fiibly, and liavo bccome lo s t in a g enera l emxila- lion to m eet h is wishes, and a genere^ sense of lo ja l ty lo hltt pcfhon ; an J th is, in the then tCDipcr o f th e nation , would have bt*en no t only a o>n* sum m ation to h e d erou tly wishes! for, b u t mo>>t ca&y o f a tta inm ent. B u t wlien h e drew , still broader, iiits actual line o f dcm areatìon l>etween th e riv a l factions, aT id ttjm j> elled every m an lo p ro claim h is iaath, au d lo la k e up h is position, either &B an opjK>nent, o r as a friend o f D o n P ed ro and th e new Conatituticm ; sham e, an d a sense of connistencv, an d the s trong ohllgation o f party tie s , oonibined to re ta in under th e s tan d a rd of the C h a rte r an iiumouso proportion o f iho&c who had onco etjpouHPd i ts cause : while o thers iiccaioe involved in a m o rta l s tru g g le w ith th o CJovom- m en t ; n o t w ithout r e ^ p t on th e ir p a r t , n e t from attach m en t to any ahstracit thoorieu, u o f for tlie syke o f the c x t l n ^ s h e d C onstitu tion , b u t simply bocause th ey found tlxomselvos proscribed. In corroboralicn o f th is iiitatement^ w itness the |>eT- sona] te rro rs CTperien«id b y th e ConslitutiouallsU io tbe la s t days o f Ibe ConiititutioTt, w itness tlie general expatriaticm l*efore th e s tan d a rd o f revolt was rained'

T h a t sta tesm an would mAterially und erra te tb e re a l m easure o f tlie a ttachm en t fe lt by ilie P o rluguese fo r th e old in stitu tions o f tb e ir coim tr^,

BOO poRTceAL. [cn . v in .

if h e ju d g e d en tire ly from ú te ap p a ren t s tre n g th u f th o ro«pcctxv*<* faction», as arraypil agaiost each o ther d u rin g the re tc n i s trugg le , o r even froui tlu? final ia^wi c f ilw civil war. T h e lu o « popn lar cause th a t ever was m d n ta in ed by mao would iiavc been endangered , i f no t ru in ed , by llie policjy o f D on M iguel'» G cvem níont. I t would therefore b e incorrect to tin ag ine tb a t th e g rea t body o f th e 'p e o p le were friendly to tJxo u o ju it an d oppre»jiivc looadurcs adop ted by D o n Pinlro, after hia re tu rn to l is b o n , again»! tUü Peers, the convent«, and t i e church generally ; no such inference can b e fairly draw n from tJie facility w ith which aftts HubversiTO o f th e ir in terest» wert^ carried in to execution.

T h e M iguehsts w ere n a tu ra lly opposed to theê innovation«, b u t they were vanquished, an d had no v o ite : th e m o d era lr an d influential uien of tht* Im p eria l party beheld these violent changes withdlsBtttiffa^tion ; b u t, absolutely com m itted by the p a r i they h ad ta k e n iu th e recen t struggle , they trem bled for th e safety o f th e new G o tu íu - m ent, an d 5701*0 consequently unw illing to en* dan g er i ts s tab ility ao d perhaps rec to re D on M iguel’s jwwer, by any veliem ent oppositioa to nieafeures w hich th ey ju s tly considered tyrannical an d oppressive, D o n M ignel* fa ilu re in P o rtu g a l is no t a pi*oof th a t tlie g re a t body o f the people are fa\'ourable to th e changes so hastily

adupU d by th e G ovcm m eots which auwooded him ; i t u only » prac tica l p ro o f th a t iT t8 lil i i l io n j^ * r^ ^ ^ ^ supported by the g ro a test portion o f the p ro p erty o f the ciountrj', an d fitiu ly roolod in th e popular affectioQS, m&y y e t b e lo s t b y an im provident policy on th e p a r t o f th e ir supporters, and l>y th e gro8s m ism anagem ent o f th e ir availab le re

sources.T h e re was a dispoftition m th e lead e rs o f the

|)opiilar p a rty io 1828 to re frm i m anifest ahuaes, b u t a t th e sam e tirrw to preserve a ll th a t r a s Tcnerable in thi* o ld institu tions. T h is sp ir it pervaded th e ir legislation , an d appeared in their careful ahslinenee from aoy foolish iotcrm cddling w ith tb e p ro p erty oujoyed by the church an d the aristocracy, an d in th e ir alm ost osten tatious re spect fo r the conven ts, even in th e p ro jected subdivision o f th e territx)ry, a lthough fresh a rran g em en ts were re so lte d on, as essentia] to th e bcH er adm in istra tion o f the local governm ent o f the country , th e old nam es o f th e provinces were re lig iously prcservixL T lio ir policy w as to re ta in o ld law s an d usages whenever th ey could l>c rela iocd w iiliou t in ju ry to th e s ta te , an d i a a ll iu- stanccb to su rro u n d th e ir new in stitu tio n s w ith th e old fo n as o f th e m onarchy. T liis judicious deference to th e popu lar p rq u d iccs w as no t im ita te d by th e ir constitu tional successors o f 1 'H iev. on th e contrary , ad o p tin g a d iiferent prin-

c ip k , iabonoQsly oode)ivuurcd> upon a ll occa^jioD«, to o b lite ra te th a t which was a n ric n t an d subuli- tu tc th a t wliich waa new,—a policy in which lht*y were snpportod by D o n P edro , who sacjifioed the real intere&ts o f h is coun try to the passion Me indulgence (if h is ¡>ersona] rcscntnienfB. In the a lte red sp ir it o f th e ir leg isla tion may b e found the c-ansc ol' h a lf th e evils th a t afllict P o rtn g a li to th is cause m ay, in a g re a t degree , b e a ttrib u ted the desc'CTatioa o f th e cDnvenls, th e consequent alicuatioQ o f the peasanfry , th e ir u n se ttled si ate, a n d the lam en tab le change th a t hati rw-entlv taken plaec in tl»eir h ab its and m odes o f life. T h e loss o f th e B ritish priv ileges in P o rtu g a l, an d th e de- ellne o f B ritish ioflurnee. m av ho traced, uo t \c ry rem otely, to thi> o p c rttio n o f a k indred feeling. B u t why, i l m ay natu ra lly b e asked, were the lib era l p a rty o f 1828 exem pt from th e inlluence o f th a t hoslility to every estab lished system whirh alm ost invariably ac tuates th e foreign C onstitu tionalis t ? B crause the jffera iling sp u its o f th a t p a rly were, in 182S, th e leaders o f society, were m en o f ra o k and stake in th e country, swaged by m any o f the prejn dices th a t a ttached to the o ld regim e, and ra th e r friendly to iêpreBentatiTo governm i n f irom the fw re o f circum stances than from any natu ra l bias in favour o f constitutional doctrines. I fe lt a l the tim e tJiat a s ta te of p arties a a d a ooujuncture o f cireumstancc^ to

favouw lile to the o ld io stitu tions o f th e country w€ro no t WVcij to rocur, i f no re a l scttlcm prtt were then e f f e c t e d f o r I c o u ld n o t bcUovc th a t, with a n expend itu re unchecked in th e rarioue depart* Toe n ts , an d which th e s ta te h ad }>«*coine wholly unab le to support, an al>solutc goTcrDmcnt could b e m u n ta in c d for an ) g^caf le n g th o f tim e in the facc o f a pow erful ro incrity in th e towns, I therefore earnestly desired a com prom ise o f p a rtie s an d o f i n te r e s t , in w hich a ll lh a t was really ra^ luab lc in th e new syslcm o f opini<«B miffht be b ro u g h t in a id c f th e tried a n d lo n g « tab llb h ed instituticD s o f the k ingdom . B u t parties w ere at th a t tim e to o exaspera ted for m u tu a l conccesion, and a com prom ise was rfêcled, which mighl. have b een f ra u g h t w ith l>eiielit to th e country, and have long p ro trac led the ejustcncc o f institu tions, m any o f wliich unhappily . 1 th ink , for th o intorcRta c f P o rtu g a l, liave row ceased to exist,

1 called on S ir W illiam C h c to n on fh e m orning o f the I2 th o f M arch, an d found Ixim suffering from th e effects o f a T ioleot k ick from a m ule. A m ong th e ab su rd rum ours o f the day, i t was repo rted th a t th e Q ueeu-m other h ad purchased th e rcca lritran t b ru te , as a signal jfroof o f the h a te sh e bore th e E n g lish . 1 uilcrvvardB called cn C ount V illa F lo r ; h e was absent, b u t 1 found th e C ountess ccmverwing w ith h e r rootlier, the M ajchesa d i L o u li, in tlic beau tifu l saloon over-

h a o p n g th e sm in j Tagu«, T h e M archesa was a Boft an d io terc6 ting person ; sh e h d d ho t daugKtcr’s bond afFectionately clasped i a ho rs; ttbe dw elt w ith feeling u |)on the a n ^ i a h o f their approaching separation, an d bew ailed, in simpl«* b u t affecling language, tbe iicavy times, th a t ren dered so precarious an y fu tu re mcctin(^ on th is s ide o f the grave.

D u rin g tb e n ig h t o f th e 12th o f M arch the Irw p * romstincd u n d er arm s ; som e decisive blow was in consequence experfed, an d o n tlie followin g m orn ing th e C ham bers wcro closed b y a decree o f the lo fan t. A a usual, th e g enera l ap- preliension exceeded th o re a l cianger; a belief w ai prevaU-nt th a t s tro n g e r measurers were in th e contem plation o f G oTem m ent, th a t the leadin g Im iw ia lis ts w ould He a rrested d u rin g the ootmse o f th e ensu ing night, an d th a t an e rfen - * i \ T lis t o f proscriptions, p rep a red b y th e Queeu* n io tber an d h e r confessor M acedo, were actually delÌTercd m to th e han d s o f tlie officers appoinfx^d to carry them in to execution.

T h e terrified lu jperia lists no longer ventured to rem ain w ithin th e ir liouses, b u t <xmcealed themaelvèa d u rin g tbe J a y iu \-arious part» of th e city, and , favoured darkness, esrajNMl to the vessels o f n eu tra l j>owers ly ing in th e Tagu#. O n th e following d ay I h ired a boat, an d rowed to the f tig a te o f tho B ritish A dm iral, to take a

la s t iarcwoU of C o u n t V illa f Ic* and tli« M arquis o f FroT>lcira. who hod so u g h t rofiigt? on b o ard ih« Spartiate, T im es h ad changed, an d th e splendid G overuor o f O porto"’. » la te ly hosp itab le to the s tran g er, courte d by th e great» a n d worshipped by d ie poor, could no lo n g e r re s t h is h ead se* cnrely in th e lowest ham let o f hi« native land. H e waa evidently dejectcd , b u t endured « íth firmneM th ia rap id reverse o f fortune, an d prcs&cd TOT h an d w arm ly, as h e a lluded t« th e b rig h t ot day» o f our firs t acqutdntanco. “ How ever, 1 liave n o t abandoned th e cause ; honour Is p re se rv ed /' h e said. H is y o ung an d beau tifu l Countes« was m ach affcctcd by th is sudden wreucli Irom so loany cherishcd ties ; b u t fhc sam e e ta l te d sp irit lh a t supporlod h e r d u rin g th o dreadftjl n igh t o f h e r F a th e r 's m urdor, an d afterw ards in the prisons o f Péniche, su sta ined h e r in th is heavy hour o f hopeless separation from th e k insm en an d th e country o f h e r you th . D e ten id u ed io MUow h er husb an d 's fortunes th ro u g h every sad vicibsitndc, th is exem plary woman renounced, w ithout a m urm nr o r a tea r , th e hom e th a t was soon to becom e the p rey o f th e spoiler, ao d th e friend* she m ig h t never see ^ a i n . T h e M archosa o f KroQleira w ep t b itte rly , b u t d id n o t speak ; F ro n te ira was depr<‘s»ed, b u t sa id th a t he d id not re g re t the p a r t he had tak en in public affaiis : we

•Ceunt ViUft Flor.

waDied fo the cab in window ; h e ga.2o d oaraestly Olì tb è wpU-known tower» o f L isbon, an d his cyoe filled w ith te a rs as h e saw, for th e la s t tim e, the sun g o duwn upon h is n a tive shores. B efore th a t sun h ad risen again, th ey w ere ta r away on fhc wide A tlantic.

In the evening; I yaw th e police draw n u p in ran li, each m an s tan d in g by h is horse, ohrionsly p rep ared to ac t a t a momeDt's notice, ao d tlie regu lar troops wore ag a in u n d er amas, and re m ained in tlia f e ta te d u rin g th e whole night. T h e iio p c rie jis ts beheld , w ith renew ed alarm , p repara tions which were i d fact only p recautionary, for th e cou rt d read ed a m ih tary reaction, as m uch as th e lib era l p a rty feared sonie sudden ac t o f m im steria l aggrc.sBjon. T h e rum ours were e x a g g e ra te ! a n d endless, th e fc r in e n t g rea t, Uie ^ r m uniycreal, an d i t is difficult to say , hy which p a rty it wcw en te rta in ed in th e h ighest degree. D u rin g tlie following days (lie em igratio n was incessan t, and th e agonizing acenee which pasbcd io th e in te rio r o f F o rtuguese ftijni. lies would have touched th e h a rd es t h c a i t ; for persons o f e ith e r eex, an d o f every ra n k an d age, were inTolved in th e gen era l expatriation, and th e B ritish sh ips overQcwi d w ith th e un lo rtunate fugitives who crowded a rouod them , im ploring th a t p ro tection which was never ye t denied hy B ritish seam en to th e dcBolato a n d oppresw d.

In thit» critdft L o rd A m elias B eau d e rk extt^nded h is lino 'o f-battlc abipB trom th e barbouT u p to I-Uibon. , T liis m ovem ent, tliougli ju d ld o u s , ftlaiititfd tlie tiin id , while th o p ro trac ted o^'cupa* tion o f th o fort« b y Brltltdi 1rCK>ps against t!ie know n wishes o f th e C o u rt exas |ie ra ted tlio Mi- gucLsts, an d the {Hipular feeling, which afterw ards flowed so strongly again st th o K nglish, Itcgan even now to tak e a d ircciion hostile to o u r Cro- v c r n m e n t . I n th e rncan tim e D o n M iguel raad « 5

arrangem ente to leave L isbon ao d rep a ir to hi» palace a t V illa V iciosa, ostensibly to enjoy the p leasures o f th e chase. T here , jo b c d b y hi« m other, supj>orted b y th e peaaanR 'v, an d utrenglh* en ed b y th e M arquis o f Chaves a i i d lu s trnopii, h e boped to l i D d bbxtscU’ speedily a t tlie Lead o f an overvi'beLiuBg force, in a cxtndition to march upon L isboa, ao d d icta te term ? o f subm ission to tLe Im p e ria lis ts ; a sd iem e discovpred, I believe, an d disconccrted b y S ir FrL*deriek X.amb,

O n tbe 15tli o f M arch an oflldal proclam ation appeared , allud ing in te rras o f h ig h com m endation to the conduct o f the troo^>s d n rin g the crisis o f 1S24, ex2>ressing a confident Lope tlia t th ey w ould show th e sam e seal an d loyalty when a sim ilar occasioo shou ld requ ire sim ilar exertions, aud th rea ten in g an y refractory corps w ith severe jm n ish m en t A s the v iolent overthrow o f the first C<insti}.ution ia n d i t m ust b e adm itted th a t

tboel deservedly i t ieU) w as the ac t o f heroism fo r wbich t l i e troops now recm vcd tbe Infant'« tfaanke, i t waa im possible Co tuisunde»«tand tlte n a tu re o i th e »erviccs h in ted a t in th is addiesA an d ex |iectcd from tb e soldiery r th is was followed by an ord er to the In tcndaD t-gencral o f the police, requ iring h im to supj)ly Ih e M in ister o f th e In te rio r with a List o f t}ic m ag istra tes, th ro u g h o u t the kinffdoia, who h ad prevented Ih e |>eople from m anifesting th o ir affection for D on M jguel, th a t f*uch disAfiwled persons m igh t feel th e terrib le effects o f hie ju stiec . I t is difficult to dcw ribe tko alarm an d in d igna tion j)crpetuated by these succeasiTc announcem ents in th e m inds o f the Im penaüst» , who enjoyed no re|>ose, no ftrodom from anxiety, n o t cvon a m om entary resp ite from g re a t an d e o n t i D u e d exiîtement

N O T E S

T O T H E F I R S T V O L U M J i .

«

i;i

N O T E S .

[ 4 s J lin re i t sore« le o g lb lo titc pr«»i&UA p u t o f s j ’ w urk upoQ 'h e revoki o f 1822 , 1 r a u e r t ib e arcD ont o f ivU d » b ie h b e fe l u a v b a n tr tv sU in g w ilb a re la tiveduTtog t b a t trouUvO pm vO . o* i t nkny aci|UaiBl o \y re a d e rs w ith ih e p M u lia r v liie h agitatt^d tb e p ro ru ife « 1 t b a t ticsc,4ikd illu9 ti« tos th e d e ro U d Isv a lty o f tb e in s u rs c n t G ii^xDa». M y rea ile rs p robab ly (b u t ilv ; CDuteat wa« «arri«d o alA 1932 Iw lifccn th e <!oa»tftutiooel*itl9, u i tb e a rm iea o f tb « Corle< o a tb e otw hw iil, e n d i>ie K o â iis ls oo tb « o tb a ri v b o weraeadi«vu(kr<iig r«iea«e K io ^ F iiU iM o d ^nn*» tb e th ijld o c a i a w b k h b e «'aB*beU.]— Svc

As we crufftcd the Ebro iu a ferry-boat, we heard froin a goatherd, for th e l i n t t im e , of tb e ioaurrecsicD ia Catalonia, that arierwanli became ao fammis, and (or KTCote&n moDth» eoQOnued to desolate the country. Our accounts during th e ucsi day were very ¡m^terfecl, b u t before we reached B aicv lin ia w c bxd c iiic je^ th$ revolu^d dislricta. Vendrell, where we pau«cd fijr a few

houTi, h a j Itcen occupici), aud again evacuated by the Rovalista» th ree day» previn\kR to our arrival. T ana, gunu was menaced by armed parties, ami tl>c auLhoriiice bad in corisCKiuen« k f t the town. W e were required to produce our paaaporte at every village through which

w€ piisttl, w)d on my arrivai ftt Bírcelon» I « u p)»ct<ì under arre»», o d Mcnujit of toutt iofomâlity io the i ig -

ntitUMB, oca*ion(?d by the abeeoce o / the Gorcrnyr of Tansffona, I was detain eU in the Hôtel àe. Ville all lUo arrival of the policlcs.1 chief, who, if Ì rmemlwr rightly, w«a Rfltteo, wbuse name becanjc so g«Qer*lly known at » later p«riod of the revolution. He lieicued »tMuilvcl) to t»y expI»nwioQ, perceived hnw Uic mU- Uikv had originated, juid, io of the remnnitriiDcea of hia secretary, Buffeted eqc to depari without delay. At Barcvloua, where we were compelleii to remaiti scone days, aa the rotule were on all »ides occupied by the Rn>«li»tâ, we received mor? correct informalion icspecl- ing the state of tlie country. Tor the ka t i w moniis, largu bodies of the ioau^rnta bad shown thetoselvis, and barassid the aoldicrs ¿ but during the fortnight that preceded our am val tbe enlb^ peasantry ha<l taken up 4rtOH »gaio»t the Government in man> p»rt9 of thè couniTy, »ad the ¡neuirection had assunsi an elarming character. H ic Aoyalt&ke, commAuded by Mlaas and the famona Trnppkt, h*d eatabliahed tbeir head-qDHrtere at Cervera, a l a ^ iow?i on the hJgl» roadb^'tftocii Barcelona and Madrid, and intercepted all offiital communi«aticn*. While we deKyed at Raruelona until some change in the atate of atMrs tbmild again permit ua tu r?new oui jontficy, OespaicUo* arrived from tlic Commander of tW OonaliiutKmai forces, announ<;ing the defeat of the Hoy- aliet* and llie fall of Ccrvera; bia adding, that victory hadl>ei'n accompanied by a drft*lftd carnage (liorto««» clade)? In this encounter, the Roy alíete suatained onf c á the severest reverses which they csperienced duriag

tîie whole co u r« o f the civil W4r; Uic>* *Wught fur fcnj> tf«Q hcpui’i with UD<l&unted Ci'ûn^Ci, but wcrc completelj roiijcd Ht ihc cloM of ibe â»j.* Aa ibe ro4â v ia Ag#iin

* W « w H t c ^ s i C«MV0n t Î9 W d « y » « fu ^ c Î u i v : A ^ u r e . 1 ruMn>l ( h s u t s e d iA ^ 'u h j' Sn p r o a i r i n g I n r ^ im a iin a v h i t f i 1 e r « r p * h » r «

Bxpân«nc«d <m MMiMirhare Roclk er^nw Ka<i uik«:ipW «. Zfiêvd, 11VU» tem pu il u i b e lle '« t l t s t omidi e ià f îg ® * ii '^h » j p r e v A Î le d i n 0 ^ » t iM e m n j t n i i h ^ k i d e d h ' ^ « o u t k L f ^ , l i l i 1 u « v ll i« M S d a l r H o m » , A nd a f f c ^ v a jd s à« & rd a < l« iw lpd » c to « n c <j( i h < M M f i l i t 'rw B « B A l ï c v r e n o n e c ie « ) v i i B i t e r ^ ^ c n ^ M tis «n*

T ta e / « lU o w u ^ r e U ù m v f U i c / i iU of C a r r « r t , « x t r ^ i i M

f f u i D U > * A u i r t t u l r e F n u j g n i K , a v o t b g c ' i t n l l y f r v « p o l i ù u i l

U w , m a y B frt h f i n ü n ^ r w iC in g ; u> n » y r p a d ^ r « , > b i i iv « « M ie vf t ) w

n M c t i m p o r l k o t e r e n u w f t b « d n i * t c ; i l d i » |» c n c f » u i >

d i s d p i i o v d f o r c e , t o d i n m i d u t c d c i u t e r v C a l« W iM « w t t l i t l i o l» ru k « n

* n d r c i r « « t i i i g b<uid> v f t b c R v y « I U iS | **Ko » p r e i td t b c f l ^ a e u f

i n t a i r r ^ ù o n n v N iVip r« fn u i« & i }*u^h o f i h «'* A l a D m T « l io ( k * m c v c s 4 e M Im u , ^ u i k T « i t p r i e C & m p re d o u

' 1 7 <rt l«vi>lE d e a h u a m c e o ( d « e c d & tn b Q tÎA O j H a n a c o u sl e p e y s , ) a G 4 n 4 i 't} L l n b ^ r t e , n ^ m i s a u d a n t k c v l m c , «*6iiuc

MiS» d l e i ^ M d v « ju e l^ u e e t r o a p e * r e ^ 1) < m ) d p l o D l e ^ , p n a r

« f r é t e r iV 8 e t i l e n j r a g o i t q u c l^ u « « b e n d e e q o i T u r r a tiM C tu c* e t d i ip c m ^ » * E n n i ê i o « ( e o e , It* O é n l r « ! Dga« J v * c p b

D «lK <lo, c o o f iM ii i l i u i t à L f r U e , c r u t 4 lv d é t e c b é c n n tr A Ip T r a |M 6 i^ :

w n « v o l o o o e e o t t i e 4 e h 1 7 M e i , te c o o ty u e a i i d « i m u ib a la iH o n e d ’i n r i n i a r i e , r é ^ i n i 0Til d a F e r d i n « i d V I I «Ips A > t u r l t »

e t d * T & rre ie o n C r r l <)e e l • n o u a n te c K i fv e u s d u ' é f r m e o t d 'E e p A ^ o e .

1 > ^ l e l e n d v n i a i i i | ( S ) e U p t r o u v a o n t o r y x d 'in a u r j^ p » r r l r u K Ü ( « s u r Q & e b e u t e f i f q< ti d o u i a e V t R t < ! a ; « U e Ip e c u l b u u d ^ d » I»

* S U e. o ù B « l1 i Jk» PU Lra a v e c e u K , e t I n | i u u f i u i * U j u a ^ u 'A ( ^ r v p r u ,

où è t w t l e q n a r i i i s r - g é u ^ 'A i d « < i n i u r ^ é « , p» u n e « p c c c d e j i u i u - A p M iv li< |a e . T u a » ( a b i t a n s a p « i e n ( p H a p e n i p < n ir i t c a m «

d e i w F m ( i l » w l e i r M i e o é u s <le ¿ é l c n v c : r i r p u o iU s O a n e U v i l i e ,

i U a e r v t r m 'v 'n d r e i i e d u « W m a j« < trw i A t¥ 'n«1M ft. d ’oO ¡ la f u a a i e n t

u u f t 'U m e u r t r i e r : l e G é n é r a l B e l l i d o n e v i t paR d U n n i ; oiAVrM

d e 1*« f é d i u p e , q u e <le f a i r e m e t t r e t e f v u « u s « juB ilrc c m o 6 d e l e v U le « e t BU n i i b e a d u d é t o r d r e o x e M o a i i é p « r c e t t e i r i « » u r e i l

« i rd t t i i i i« u i i « « i tt» ( ia e e é n p r a J e i 1« t ta ïu B o n « { i l ! « f u t ix ite ic jue W4ni> j n c e n a i u e , c « r Ip4 t n i u r ^ s w i f p r m i e d m )ea m a i s o o s ,

ü ia J y r É l e p r c « r i « d p l 'i n e e » d i e j C a ÎM x en t p le u v c t i r » u r l e c sw W aU

V O L . • . P

n j t e s i£to w « h r f l U e r c e lv n a oq t b e 2 2 i) t j o f

to d arnved In chft eveuing &t Esp*R&guerrft, where we bad bên precedeil (17 & reginteiU of ti*c GcnutltuUonaJ iruop«, « h n were a i n ^ ^ tbe Tragal» in tbe streets. Before I retired to rf >*t, I iofl tbe Poaada. MoDtMrrat rme glnomily before m e; the strtcts were deacrtid, «nd 'beTnod the town I perceived tbere were ou lights in aoT of the niighhouriafi bamleis, The«e were dreary signs of the times. 1 KtJirncd to the inn, threw tnywlf on my bed. artd slept tiU moroing. I thco understood lhat an order h«d beeti fcffbld^Lig any iodividualCu leave hia house aDer dvk , and requirnig OV177 pci^mnt who dwelt be)'oad the w&Ui of Lapamguvrrtt, to quit his hamlet and enter the town before duak. This roea- Acirc was intended to prevent any couiman'ic«tioD between the BiiyQlist Guerilla» 4nd the pe^santrr, who were rapidly eiibaiing in tbeir hA&da. I t wad kuown that parties of the insuigenta descended the mouotvna at night, f<>rftgM the country for proriiions, aad were well receired by tbe tohabtlarit«, who wnre io thoee die- iricta universally favorable to the Royal cause.

o n e i f r è l« d f ¡« H é » , d « m i l« » , d « m o r c n u i i t d e b n « « t d c p i« r r « .

E n f i o , a p r ^ i T i e v u r a o M r é n A n i e . U T i l l e C as r c n d o e ü d i<

h e o i n e t d u o i e d u s o i r . « I » u b U t o u t e U n t ü c s u i i m h t « ^ b k » H 'Q n e p d M d*«AB.vi(. 1CIE» é t v c p re i t^ Q s d t t r iM t « e t e ^ h i« l!nui'ifl

« 1 jMrti« «2(tfcitoé». CDU* «Us sTkii eoAti obcr ags rkin^foeim—

i k i r a i r u t p e r d u k a K D O ta iid A u t d e « A s c i i n « ^ « i s u m o i s « d w x

i « n t c i n q u a j i t e l iM tin w ic S u i v a n t 1« r a p p o r t d u g â o i r a l C o n « 4 > ' t a i i n o s e l , t a p e r c « t o t a l * d e n in iu r ^ ;4 a d a o a c e t d c o K e iT .i ir e t

é t é d a p h u d « d o u z e c o n u b o r o m p * , r a c n lc a < i(^ )e c r u t c e n t i«n2 B 'i tv h r a j ^ n i f& é im n T é * l o r l e c b r a OTKS. 313

EatlT OQ tbe MWwip^ <)a) we lefl üspnxrftguem, and pucioj^ e fine regiment tbat was mArchmg upoo Vila. wt Vilia, amvcU in lea« ihm iwn hour>* at CulkaW» a »m«U riUage fit tbe foot of the mouot&ín of Montserrat, wbMe siiiguJar asierablsge <j( csnea one above artothcr,on a high racge of cragv, bad Ic^g furmed tbe mu«t pro* nioen t objecc in ibc lAD<jscap«. W t detemtincd co viät ih< conrenc; and ^ving im tm ctiuci to our lervants (o joia Ul witb tbe cartiage U h ps.r»cuUr fput w tbc oppoaiie úde cf tbe mouctuD, v e commeDced tbe aacent, «eoompATiic«) >>f a yoiuig CttaUQ whu led the way. Soon afterwarda 1 nmeirUcrcil that w? had Icft our l>awpnru^ in the earrififfe—au omiäaiun w tich, at that peritxl of alann, inight have beeo Troductlve of scriow ÍDCODTenience. Tê boj, *ho was acciistomed to the pü cM« «pnkcfTi by itae [»«aaaniry nf Cattlonia, hitnU; aeeiDfd tu cOfD{>relictu] raetining v b es I rf^xM cd hiin to return and fetcb it> nor vhen I aekcd him soiuft qu«»> tinoa relati?« tn the daj*e cxpediUon. He fixeO bis evef on tiie grcniml « ith auch an espreaaion r>f|ihlegmatic to* (idierencc, tbst for a momecl 1 thoii^hC it would he ad* TisaUe 10 procure a more böp^íu) gwde; but %hcai he fit len^b UDderfttood me, hc vuluDteer^ hi« »emc«i> wIlIi ihe moM g;ooil-kumuiired readinesa. Our eom* patikn improTcd upoa acqaa)iit«nc<: he pAst^«»d a quick percepiiOD of the liidienme; and, tboogli TOttnq, hi« mi)firka opnn pcnonA «nd evi;nt« ihat fcU uDüer hii rmroediale obMTvatiou wcrß »hrcwd ai»U caoatic. W« b a d toiled up tbe h ü l so a cooaiderahle lieighc b j a narr t » and regulär tíg«*^, w>b n %re BuOdcDt<r bfard «lie roAT of the cannoD tb e vallev b e lo w ; it wai twice

p 2

repeft(<d, 4nc) all vrta I shtll n r vet* fn ^rjcliange tbat was visible ¡m bU counleniti^, Le

lum«d round aud said to tao, pale ratber with awe than wkh apprehension, “ El canon 1” I ba*l been informed iliat a large bodf nf the Koyabet« were luticnicil a t Vil«» hati resolved to defend it the last estremicj, and that an engagctncnl was espected to u k c pâce about tbia vcrv linae in tlie valley below. W e did not, however, hear l> c iound r«pcatc<l fur «omc hours; and 1 afier* wards leu ito i Ibat theie two di6chargea were uneDiineceed with great aUack tbat followed. A small party of the Royalists, who had been separated from the main force to which they Wooged, and were sujTuuridcd !»y the ConstHuitnnal troop«, had founcl their last refuge in a houM wbidi they bad forti&ed. Here Ibese unfortu- mate men defended tbemtelves with a gallantry that de* served a better fat-?: i»hen tbe two discharges of cannon, which wc beard oo the muunlain, h^d efiected a breach HI the wall, they stili refused to surrender, set fire to the hin^se, and died on th t hajonet« uf tbe enemy, shouQng “ V ira cl R p t!” Tl)ree alone wirvived the a£»ault, were niade prtiônpi», and shot, a few hours afterwards, by martial law.

Weieachwl the convent of Montserrat early in the dav, and were glad to c«aj>ft for a short time from the intolerable glare of the sun. TUis pile of buildiog, irre ^ la r , and îparently constructed at different ¡«erlods, is still venerable and imposiiig, and retuns erident traces o f fyrincr magniliocnpe, Here fornicrty c»lsted one of tl»e most splendid eetabli*hmenti of tbe Catlwlic world, but ita fvrlunes had onclergun« a mdanclioly chaoge.

The pile w»* foUiog inly îccay; the cb&pel, a p e rr« t appcimen of urcUlveciural be*uty before it expfltituceO the rfivtges of vnr, h'aa then t ruii). Three eôuks aii«l tbeir old abbot alonu rctnained» «tripped of ihose do* mtuiis which )ud given »ealth »(id coraidentiiKi tu a numerous fraternitj. The abbot csmc (a receive w « itb ^ a c e Kod digolty: hib wekome was fneu^Hy, bii miuiiicr« calm and diatloguiahnl, and in hie cuuiit^ iiaiioe wai ao eii)rc«tou of melancholy laiiflgled with rCi«gn»tion. He baU heat reduced to cstrcrac poverty by the revolution; du iir^ the French iu?aaio*i he had raised the pouan tr;, and arrned a GuerilUt; he bad «hared tkic peril» and hardahips of lhat »peciea of warfare with tbe m d « t (» at*Dt» for the Indepeudenoe ui SpaiD. The meon»; of p»at services should have (d- SQred to him better treaunent in his dechning years, lift led UB 10 the terrace, where we cQjoyed a maguifi- cenl view nf the country; fine m««scA uf wood lay aroimd us *nd bcnPAth onr feet, while tall grey pin* nicies of rock oreihung the monastery. F n m ihls emi* nence, wluah 1« estimated at nearly ihree thoussn«! feet •bvve the i«a, the country bciicatli r%Uier resembled a plsiii varied by slight inequalities nf iur&ce, than what i t really waa—a district intersected by ranges of higb hilU. Here ihey pointed out to ua Vjla, « the houses In il« TiciDity, whew tbe Royalists wcfft encamped j they infbrme^l im ihal the people of that town and the neighbouring dUtrictsh»d taken up arm» m their csuac— i:hat bodrf£ of the Constltuticnalitiis had been m&rchitig in that direction duriog the rooming ar»d the wlwle of the preceding da;—that the Attack would take placi;

iHnnei2i»tv1y,'iind be «opposed v ith tbe a to m t drter* mnatton. Their Mi(icip«4umB «ere ju«l: thote «»Ik, 1W41 i^lluerlng in tbe b r^ b t be»mi of tiie iDoniing, w«re » h c K p of b l o o d » 'V 'd s s l t c * when (be &nn v e n t d o w n .

Tbe re«i«tiince im s desperate w)iat liA/ f>od and tbcir K ing; m ^ 'n , wnraen. a r ^ e v e n c b U d i v D , ruse ftt the eouix! of tlic tocsin, und Tougbt in the r a i ^ of the Kovftlist»; tbe town ivai tdrawl <k«troy«d before the troops could effect aa entrance, sod wben it was takeiif reo i{«arter was and a sceoe of ItMiiicri*minste raatMcre ensoed.

Al v e tock leare o f the Abbot snd tê moHka, r l« t pfe»cd Qs to ¿liK aud sfxod tbe day a t tbe djmrenl, with BO much eAraeetoefs, that we afterwardB nuspected

werv iwt luucquaintcd with the danêri « e were Kkcly to kicar by pursuiTkg <njr jnunvy. I bave ne»er bwtfd any ecrtMiH aocount of ibe fate nf this inur«sUft| old mao. and the monks wlko w ae with bim. More daan a ^ a r afterwards, wbeo tbe I'reucb wen? entcnnj^ Spein, 1 saw iu («le of the Jovrnals, a t Paris, that tbe monks of tbe cooveot o f MorMscmt bad becnme im* plieated with the Koyaliat G hj^lU i, had been detected by the flcv<Jiittnuists, cooveyed to prisoo, and would isDioolititely u n d e t^ tbe sentence c^ the law.

A l wc proceeded ou oor jcxiroey the sceoery became bolder, tbe road bordered the precipice, and lltc nrnnn- u in furtned itself into a senei o f receasei or inlvkd bays, ternaioated by projecting hdgbli. Ai we laraad

NOTM. 319

ooe of these he«ilut4«, we saw three or four men advance b e ^ iid the point v h ich bounded ihc op}K«ite ai<le o f the road, pause, retreat, re-ap}Kar, And sudcleoly fall iMck, M i f »tartlfrd, umJ d w h ttu i irha t courK to puraue. This faesitatioA did u<rt long end jiv , A party of pe«aaniA brolce frc«i tbe abeJter o f tLc roc&; shouting loudi;» they desired ua to halt, aiuJ kecp ii^ tbeir eye« s(»dilv fised upon Hi, th»t ibclr aim might b e ui>erriQg i f «u attempcal to eaoape, they with their muskets to thcic l?re<«ts ftnd tkeij h&od to tike trigger, lushiog to»»T(i» ua w ith tb e ulmoet ^ m 1 . A t first iite eslraurdinuy potatioci of their bodies, ha lf beot Co the earth , frum the didiculiy of holdiog their muskets presented in a course »• rl>pU> Uio wildness of tbeir dreae, the f iv itic y«IU which they uttered, the irrltacioii stamped on tbeu- couoteaaaces, and iDcre««cd by the TioleDC w ith which the^ came, ra ther re»ainb)td an irruption o f saTtges thaa tb e charge o f an organized GiieriUai but wbcn tbe first tumulCuouk onaet wa« o<er, tiivy recovered ail theb- DM m dim ity . Thcar hair was uticonfined, tbeir trowsers UtiC, tlieir ^laid dark rud, and the scarlot bonnet of Cataioaia fcU far duwn their shoulden. W hen first they reached ua, they held tbeir musket« to our bieabt«, sayitig, *' Y ou are traito rs! you are enetnica of tlw* K ing and the HcJy F a ith ( you sball d ie t you »hall d ie !” They required ua tog i?e Mp our money; and in tbe firvt CT«nsport o f rage daahed it upon the ground, baying, It w a a ibe gold o f l iu t when we aasuredt h e m t h a t w e w e r e strainers t o t a l l y uneonnected w i th

t h e t r o u b l e s o f t b e tlm ei, t h a t w e l> c lo n g e d to t h a t d ia*

r a m country w h o » « 9011» h a d i b u g h t s id e l i y a id e w i i h

(hein fur tlic rights uf King Ferdioaod aod for Spain, agsdnst the people wbn dwell beyond i(k>bc Pyreneec ilwit ihrii »n eight« and (o which we pointed a t we

tltcy ahook lian<ls witb ue entbuùasUcftllv, and gave tin lUHxnîUitional proiDise that our lives ehtnilcl be rrsjicçtut). Uy this time tbe C»ptaiD, and a man wbt> xvaa apparently s«cunO to authority, whom we aAerwacds di»tingu)shcil by the name of Lieuicnant, haU arrived- They were superior in language, manner«, and edaca- Hud, to the lurroduding grwip; they were not »ubject Co the same üncnutioni of opbion ; tlie; were lc$« con* vlriccd of our ioQocencc «t w it mument, of our guUt a t another. They poasceacd more jndgmenf, itioro reflection, and tliat moderation which gcneraUv arise» trum niauired knowlolge uf mankind ; theyexammed ua wilb rnctbod and niiiiulenee», leemM anïioiia 10 âacerlaiu the exact number of tbe Constitationad froojw that we had lelï ia tbc ralley, and tbe precise «lircctivii they bad taken ; we aitawcred their queallona with Adelity. At iitHCft» and particulaily when wf aflutlcd to V t \ they accmed startled a l our replica. As tlicy nuw «pjichmI to regard our conduct with ksa s\iBj>icioti, we tninteti that the; would not detaiu u t, wbeo we bad frankly communicated tbe little informaiiofi wc pi'ftecescd re* apecfing the vlewi and mtOTemciite uf tiK encm ;; but atiliieidciit i>tcurred tbat entirely changcdthdr fvelingt, and would have praved fatal to us, bad not tbe Captain and the Lieutenant luterfered in cur fa?our. When they had auÆcieoily eianiir\cd u i, they dctlred to &ee all that we had brought with us to tbe mountain. Jo conteiûence <ji this requeat, wat obliged to pro-

ü u c e p U to l b » lU ( l i â t w e re b y c h * o C 6 i n h i s p c e k e t

* t I h e m o iD C tit, T K e e c b f t l l» e f le c te d a n i u s u a U n e o u B

A n d M fo n iB h in jç « m l e i o n o f fv c U » g : î h e y w c r c lo o k td

u p o n M p ro o f o c ^ j t ic lu w ie o f u u r u t i f i f tx io Q w i l h t h e

r e ? o lu t io n a j7 a r m y , u n d o f i h e h o r a l e r a o t h c s t h a t h x i l

u s ( a t h e m o u n t a i n ^ t h e y b e c u m c s b v i o l e n t u

U f o r e ; a o m e c o c k c d t h e i r m u a k c t e , a n d w e r e o n ly p r e -

y e n s e d h y t h e C a p t a i n « i id t h e I . i e u i e o a o t f r o m o a n r -

i n g t h e i r t l i r ^ t » i n t o e ic * » u io B . TV’e e & p la in c d w i th

• o r o c d i f f i c u l ty , a n i id t h e t u m n U , l h a t t h e s e W I b b e

lo n g e d to p i s t i j l i w b k h w c c a r r i e d f y t » a fc i) ' o n t h e

b j ÿ h r o a d s . T h e y A |>peaT ed I n a o m e d ^ j r c c ; r t - a w u r f d

b y t h i s p r o b a b le a t a l e m e n t , b u t n o t c c n v u tc c d . T h e y

w e r e e v i d e a l l y d i»p< iscd t o b e l i e v e t h a t w ? h a d c o n ic tu

t h e m o u n iu T k f o r t h e jm r p o s e o f r c c o n n o i t e r m g , m iJ

« c r f a c t i n g i t i c o n c e r t w i t h t b e C o iw i i tu t io n a M its in

t b e p l a i n ; n o t c o u ld w c g i ^ a n y s a t i s f a c to r y a n s w e r

rC K p e cb r i^ t h e r e a e o n a t b a t b a d i n d u c e d u s t o d e v ia te

f r o m t h e r o a d , a n d v ia i l t h e m o u t i i a i i i , a t a m o m e n t

w l i t n , to a d y f t t b e i r e r a p b a l i c l a n g u a g e , e r e r y m a n

f r o m r ^ e r id a ti> M o a t n c c r a t s to o d w i t h b i s m u s k e t a t h i s

U n?a$ t : - ( 7 W o Urvla à UonUfrrai da c e a escopela ai p c c f i o . ) W e s a id , h o w e v e r , w e b a d b c c t j i n f o r m r d

l h a t t l i c m o u n t a i n w a a f o r t h e m i^ m e n t i n a t i a n t iu l l

HtaU“, a n d a u u t e d th e m t h a t o u r v i s i t w s j s o l e l y uCCa-

r io n u d b y n io ü v e s o f c n r io s U y . ( J n s c c u s t o m c d lo U a -

v o l le r e , t h e y b a d p r o b a b ly n e v e r l i c a n ! s u c b i e a » o n i

M è ig n e d b e f o r e , a o d r c e e i f c d t h e m w U b j u s ù f i a b l e s u s

p ic io n . A f t e r s o m e d i s c u i w o n , t h e C a v i * i n t u r n e d tn

us a n d s a i d we h u d i n f o r m e d him t l i a t o u r s e r v a o i* b a d

i n s i n i c l i o u b to join u s w i t b t l i e c a r r i a g e a t a p a r t i c u l a r

p 3

«poc, « I the oppoéiic sd e of the motmtHin; that be woiild iBCCTtiin fact, *nd that we *buuld be judged by CKir own woids. I f onr atory proved coniirteat, ibe result of W» inquines eatwfActory, N»e »hnold depari in peaccj but that if the 6rit jn ^ e d inoonalileut, aod ibe latter un*ackifaclt>n', be had no »Itemaliw left in the CT cieal itaW of ibetr aftirs, m no waa givento pri&uuen by cUber pu ty .

'fbcae word»» were »pokcn frenltly, but not u n cw - (auutiy ; nor vsfi there any appearanct uf insuU Í& h ii manner. Thii sj*cci« of dicuiioa wa* not «grte- tihle from any individual; •tilJ I fflt, a t that tinte, what »ny poor Catalan exp»<»eed in siroiJc langua«, some hyure aftermarda, when wis Bifvod on tho moor__« Señor, your hA ba i been unfijtiunaie to-day; hulButh a r e tbe f h a n c e a of m e n who T*nge o%er th^ world,” W e now ccsiUBiml «»or j o u r n e y , guarded by the li*nd. A wild < * rig in a l, wboin we afcerwardB iKs- tinguiahed b y the name o f Sbocky, f r o m bl» shock head ®f hwr, attached himself to me, and kept near t i iy bor*e*B

head; thimgb aucb a ¡irerfiotion was <(uite unnecessary, aa a n y attempt to escape ha?e been toipracticable. H e «»a on terme i>f familiarity with tbe Captain, tbougb be »eeniftd to bavc little antbwrity in tbe tioop; nnñ « a s c e r l a i f i l y more calculated to f i r t l x r an enterprise Ijy bi» courage and ftxertioni tlian tii plan and duw t itB executiun. He differed lo i a l l y in maimers and cbartfter ftom the Teat of tbe Guerilla, and wa» tbc imly indi«- d\ial who uttered anv o ffe n s ÍT e «a presiona; and t h e a e ,

Í have little doubt, «igÍTkstC'1 more in a thought) cnsneii and natotal vehemence of temper, tlian in anymal'g-

n«nt feeliug Ynt « m e droe we p«jceeded tm»qoilly •kmg llie MwJ; the Guerill» \ooitA upon oa *ilh less dupl«MUre» SbocVy’8 repeaU>l tbat^ê•hyulddic began lo abate. Altlwogh liitle. reguUrity ««a oliiervtJ in their marcb. tbey paid itnplkit obe- <lieDce lu Lheij chief, who omitteil oo poinl c( M ccawy candon: kforew c turoetl any of the projcciiug ryck» lhat concwlod tbe view of the road beyond, )ie regu* larly acne forward a Tuletie, ccnaUring of three or four men, who, advancing carefuUy, reconnoitered iLf paa«; nrui when tlwy were satitfied ibat no danger »»» at bao4, made alRtial» Sij their cotnr«n»yik«. By ibpae meann ihey effectualW guarded agaiiiat any auddfn aurpriae. Thi* calm, however, did no» endure; and iftdied theit lemp<r waa deatiiicd to imdcrgn a aevcre tn a l W e bad travelled with Utcm for a aliort dinaiicc. when wc heard u rolliog diichargc i>f maakotry from the valley Itekrwj ihe Guerilla tun»cd, and lisleued attcoiirely; A waa •âin and aRain repented. Tiicy knew b> ihnae aound», aoU I knen' also, tbat tbe long-expccttd engagement bad conitiieacwl. I waa aw»re tbat th e« diachargefe would preJ»ahly continue, and could not fail to eierciac a most unfavourabie influence on out de»dny—ao anriclpatioa quickly rvaliied in their increaaingirritatii»n and change of ccmducU Tbeir couuteoancM became sullen» and almost ferocious i many aco^lmg glauce« were beat upon US, many threat» were oUtrcd, and ti»ey spoke of our guilt aa ccrtain. At lenqtb we bc«d the tremendvu* roar of the cannon; it vâa awfully r«?wl*erated anions tbe rw ki, and (iroduced a atrvug sensation upon the mind of every man. For aouie nunuC« I had chwelj

olwCTsed the Csptvku, who w m w*lking near me, wiih ibe Toung Cftultn, u3ong tbe edge ot ihc precipice, l ie uciilier p%os*(l nor larned bi» Wward»quarter whence tb « e bUsta proceeUeJ- In spiie vt the exa»perfttic>n ofhí« men, tmd the ¡Ddign&ot obscrva- tioDB lhat were iiitlircclly oddrewcd to him, be fisfil tae «yesón the grouod, «nd made no reply i his con- scioutoeu o f tlwrac eouod» was ulone manii^Btcd hy ihe determined Blownees of his »lep, and t b e iucrctoinR glwni u f hi« countennticc. Tbii i»ccuUarffy of rn*«nir w»s D o t tbe efl'ett of indiifercnce or ii»«tteiiliou, buttrwee from a fpellag of decp-ruoced pride*. herameU ii) the*e fHstncGscs by the Con»ututional tíoop» whft iiirroaDikd the mcnu)t«ÍD o>i nU aide«, septrslcd from h u cootpaniniui m «rma, uoabie tu leod them any «»«isriiDce in the how of their greateit em eêncy; corapeU«U W bear inacl» vcly the wuutl of that musktiry which was levelliog thclr ranks, &od wi>uld«ooD be diruvied againat his ova , be would Doi eipn:»5 an impotent dc»Ire of veogcâce be- furc Lwi» gtraoêra, whuiti he regarded an secret etianie« of hia y u a e ; ihooph, io defcuU nf l>«E6;r evidence, be had not yielded to tlie clamour of hi** hand, and aigoed OUI dcHth-warraDl. Tiial auch were hia reflcctinna 1 have little doubl, from lii» manner, hi» subsequent cooduct, and from caaual eipressiona. At aU e»enlB, he pre««r>ed ailencu ^h ile tbc nn)»ketry continued; but «hen the loud roar uf the cannon suddenly bruke upon US, hia coiuitcimnce changcd, and the pasaioh that had l o n g 1)«en g a t h e r i n g in his hre*at aeemcd at once lo ina»ter bis letter judgment, a$ he turned to the young Catalan, a«td sakl that the CouBCitutiooalista wero at that

NOTE». 325

mumeiit e x c e r m in « t iG g l)is c n m p f tn io n » ; tli&t no mercj bftd beeo ehowji to ibe Koyaltela who were fuken in »nos near Tanagoo, «ixl tlial the circufnAt«iic»i under which we were ap tu red juBtifie<l the rvtjdistMii >sblcl he wooid so longer dcUy. Ici answer to bis U it speech, I luroed a&d said to hrm, that we could fe«l no appr^ h«Beion ; thal he had pledged hi» word—the '«ord of à CataJao—that our lives ahould be respected that mcJi I pledge, BO glTcii, coaid ooc be duregarded lit ray «wuDtry, uor> in hi», would he violated by &ny niKa of honour. Eq eplteof theim tatioo under which he was Uhouring, he liewned lo me with attention, but made no reply ; and, Î tiunk, waa embarra£c«d by Ihe recollection uf & promise he nu longer intended lo pre- «erve, and which he oos? conceived had been obtained by falsehood, and given under a felse impresBion, At thie crieia, when our eituaiion seemed desperate, we wer« saved hy an bonouraMe feeling of Sclclity in our guide. During ihe ûrst part of tbe d&y’B expedinou 1 bad been annayed by the indiâerence wbicb (be young CfLXaUn h«d showu uq occosi<Kis lhat in soiite degree letjuirtd »cdvity. J -was aficrw&rdi amused by the caustic humour uf his rcntarkb; but was ii>ull) unpre> pared fur llie vigour of mind wbK;h ii« now displayed in dciVoce of men who, Ull iha( miiming» had been en(irv eiraogpj^ lo bim and bis. He aaid, in a 6rm t«ne, that lie wo<ild pledge hie exls(ence (bat we were foreigners, oncunoeetul with patty : we had visited tho mountidn, relying on thé huspitable fceÜDgs of (be pvoph^, and under \ùf* pecuhar guidance. He called upon the Captain co paose fur further proof, aitd not

C v iO n iit 60 t l i a t « u n l d ca»K 4 U i o d e l l U e n U in ata

ch^b* b o o o u r . T h e C s p x t i ü r e p l k U w h b w a n n t b ^ b u t

t h e s e m a u T i s t r a u c c t c e n t i n l y t h e t S h c i o f p rfv e o c *

ÎD g t h e b M t j m eM su rc s h c « u u l d u ü ie r* k is c I i h t c «U vp lo il

i n i h e i r t Î M t io n o f i b e m o m e n t . £ s u r p r i s e d e t t b e

) o u a » c y t h a t s e e m e d t u e jJ& t bcv w ccD O te C b i e f e n d

t h e y o u j iç C e t e l a n ; b u t 1 e f i e r m o d s l e a n i c d frcn ii o u t

n i a t e l c e f th f t t i b e C e p t e i n t o M iv e o f M o o b U o l , •

to w D D o t f u r 6 x iQ ü ( jlb « .b » i t h « t t h e y b « d b e e n p re *

v io « i« ly HCCûeiDied ] e o d t b e t e b r o t h t s o f v o r j^ u td e b s d

f o u g h t w i t h t h e R o T ^ s t s . T h i s e c c o u n t e x p le in c t l tb e

ictiiieTice 'w h ic h b e p o s s e w o d u v c r t b e C e p u l n ’i m in d .

AboQt tbis tiïPi» the ü u e ;ilia psuaed near k {buDtam, formed by a mountein-iorreQt tbat ceoie down t revUe in tlra ruck. I t is iiot easy to ¿cecribe tbe snhliniity of tbe scene that p(e»vi\te<l itself ;-~ it â scene tbat Salvator IUm shuvld have sketched, and Walter 8euU rteecrihed. W e stood amid one uf tht.' gnudeet land* scepce uf savage, nature : above our beads th<> inoucuiii «'M clothed to a coasldemble height wiUi pioe fcnats, that «ere siUTnounted \ f j e r&nf?e of tall g r e y crags; bencelb oas feet, stretching as fsr as tbe Pyret>ecs tbai bounded t)ie distaace, I&7 Catttlonia, tbe tbeacrv of the dv il »«r, 'rho fyunuinwas OTerhiuig by a rock, covered with wood, tbat ov^rshftdowed tbe ro»d «¡tb its hrancbes. Beneath tîis tbe OiKriUa h^d ruDllecteii to ciijoj a moDient’s rcet io she shade ; siili tho b c ^ c of the sun broke at interv&U through the foliage, w d flashed upon their a m s , their dark>red platd. and sculei boiinet. Tlic iodiTiduak who cooiposcd the Guerilla eeemcd choscn men, in the Tijout of youth, and p<w

t i l the ch*fscteri8tic dignity o f Span Ub m tr n x r t .

l l i d r òr««« picture«ûe, tnd »niied to tbe ecen« ; tbeir figure« vere «(«telj then counteiiaitcee, fur th< iQott part hantisooic, were now U^hced up by tbe Tsrkiue filin g s of «nxìety, deeji Utungbi, a a i giocatij rcênt- meot. Tlicsc p«s*ion« prevailcUi but were lìitfèrentl; ezi>re«(Kd, as they «ere more or 1««« felt, according lo the temper of ewh loan ; ba t on eiery countenance 1 i ^ i the sacoe dumeti: r of lii;{k det^rmlDaiion. Sums were kt>celing by cbe fountun, and drinking with ari» d itj ; other« recìÌQe< »'loog (b^ ground ; and a ftw nere leaning on th o r muakets. One man advauced tu tbe edge of the precipice; and «hen hv beard tbe heavy eound uf tlie cannon, he ckncbed bi« Sat and ehook it. Vy fcng « itb an cipiowion of determined hatred lovard» tbo position that be cuaueivcd to be occupied by ihe Con«titLtional Qt<ip».

P e r i i a p a t b e r e « a a n o c j r c u m « ta o c e e o a t r l k i n g a»

t h e c o u r t e s y w i t b w b te b « e « e r e f f iA tc d , a t a m u u iv n t

w h e n t h e i i p a » « iu n 8 « e r e e x a s p e r a t e d , a n d u u r d o u m

ftlm o M d e c id e d . W h i l e i b e G u e r i l l a w e r e r e p o s b ^

u n d e r t h « r o c k , t b e C a p t a i n aak cU l o c >»h<*iber I « e r e

n u t r& o g u e d , a n d w o u ld n o t l i k e a ls o t o r v a t ; a n d

S b o c k y , w h o v«aa m y g u a r d , w l i c n h e p a u s e d t o d i i u k

f r o m t h e n u m c r o u * « c re a m » t b a t I n t m e c t c d t h t r o a d ,

akw ftT « i n v i i e d m e t o fb llu w b i a e x a m p l e . W b i J e t h e

C a p t a i n a n d m y a c l f i n t e r c h a n g e d a lo w « o r d e , t b e

v w j i ig C a t a l a n , w h o < x n iu e d n o o p p o r t u n i t y o f in i c r e e d -

in ; r i n o w r f a v o u r , t ^ ù n r e n e w e d h i « a d v ic e a g a i u a t iu -

t e m p e r a t e n i c a i u r e s j b u t t b e C a p t t u n t u r n e d a s id e ,

a d d i n g . “ X o h a y r e m e d i u “ T h e r e i* n o a l t e r n a t i v e ."

3J¿8 NOTK«l.

T h « e words, combiofd wiíh (he calm <lclerrQÍ04Ü0ft of bis m&&ner, convinced inc thtit his courtésy arpee more from the delicncj n&tursl lo * hij^li-mínded oino, than from any favourable chi«i<ge io bis inUociooBj and in (bis light ¡C was evideotij regarded h j his fbl* )ow«ra, who laid, (ben aod afierwards, In tbu Catalan patoU, “ E»tan perdut, « la n pcrdut,” —(They arc loU men, they are ¿oit m in.) After wc had left the fuuQtaio, some private couveraation pueed between tbe Captain artd bU l4cutcnat«t. When thia wxa evrclude«^ (be latter Belec(ed two men from the band, and led the way to a narrow paib that M’ouod ibroiigh the wood to the crags abuvc. l ie asecndcil the biU a step, tnrneil, drew Iiiniself up witb d ^ i ty , waved his hand, and, addrean io|{ (he Guerilla, aaid that he «hould mount tbe heights, to Irarn if the ^¡»aniards were approaching; for by thia appellation they invKxUbly dceij^natcd tliC rtvolntionary forces, in opposióon (o the native Catalans, l ie added, that if he ¡tcrceived ib^m, be should fire as a aignal, and then t/oi hroi a /w Señores, ( “ two Toilcya upon the Signora.” ) ’ This injonction w»a not particularly enlivening, as ibe mountain was on all »idea surrounded by tbc adverse forc«s. Soon aAcr*ardA I hourd a mnaket fired, which I thought for a momCTa ihe appointed signal; hut was quicWy undeceived by the manners of tbe Guerilia, who paid no attendnc (o tbe diachui^, and probably knew by the b o u » < 1 that ¡ i waa unconnected wii}i (bcir companions. Aa we continued our jouioey aJowlv, (be Captain sccnicd engaged in deep and more amicable conversation with the yoimg Catalan : it seemed desponding, by the low tooea of hie voice, and

by » fow hrftken senWaccs '«•hich I heard irtna time tu lime ; the mclignani feeling» that, had tiuabifd hi& cbeek were gi*ne, tu d the fever of h u e}*e was «placed by an espreMion vf aubdaed niclaucboly. He «*úd that the mountain was eticcpinpasseil on all ùdee b ; an over* whelming force; he vaaawtire ibathia compaaione io tbe fortified hmiae m uit have ahead; p^srithcd ; “ I know»” he added, “ that, bo aurroundcd, w© tew m uit dee, (sc ¿:«'A que hm t)i dfí mtrrii, ) hot we will «bed our dearest blood for the King and tliC Holy Faith.” Hia former aaiinatiun tciutoed for a moment, when be alluded lo a prevltuiiatioci that bad been issued uo th« pnjCCi.Uiie day, offering mercy to all who would lay dowa their urdis wllbio £crtit-and*iwenty hours. He kindlud with índiguatioQ aa he mentioned aome Koyatiate *Á a différait Cjoerilla, who, he sawl, had compromised iheir principios nuil eoed for pardon, ('/Utf *iin -pediáo y o f <im.) “ The lime limited by net,” he added, “ is ex- (tiriu^; our situation 1« hopele«s> but ncK a puui «ili lubmit.” J esy, ii w u impoMÍble fo hear rach sentì« meals expressed at such a tíme, without a etrong feeling of rcapcct for the individualâod of contempi for the incapacity of a goTcriniieut ilial had enhsied such a spirit agaÍMst tbe cause of frccduni. There was no period cif the ñvil war more disaetrouB to the Boyalisls' than these days that imnêdiaiel; followed the fall of Ccrvera. Tbc Proviwonal Uovcnunent of U ^ e l was not yet in exielunce. Tiiere was rvo rallyiog p o b t^ th e re waa no union ariMJûg the chie^ of the ¡it6urrecüi>n“-tl)cre was no safet; IcA fur the Rvyalists, except in the sympathy of tlie people. ChiefUuni erery where sprung up, ^ te d

independently fd each Mher. »r**l iiicreaied the genciU cvDftuioa. l i u k GacrilUe, fonaed irom ihe ivreck of rbelr a n c ;. renewed t de«per*ce » s r kt cbe mouoUins^ tr>d were ttkeo or cut to piecca in deteU. Dunn^ these e u c c e c g i T e revenee, sets of devoted berokm v»cTTt per* fonoed, auch sb were never surpoaaRd in La Vendtê; but they occurred in • remote corner of iiurope,—thev bad no hiatotiAn, &nd sre unknown.

T h e e a n i m i h f td f o r s o m e tin iB b e & ire w e

( « • r h c d R e tr l i i j i ry I m i i e , t h a t h a d p r o b a b l y ^ o u r t a b e d a

b s d T e j i td i n i t s b e s t d a y * , b u t w a » n o w i o a r u i n m u

c o o d i t i o n . H e r e , t b e C ^ t i n u J d , k e ^ p e e l e d to

r e c e iv e t b e r e q u i s i t e i n f o r m a l r e s p e c t i n g o i r s c l v e s ;

a a d , a d d r e a s i i i ^ a l a d w b o c a n e u i a n u r c h i m t h a t iw

u n m e d i a t e d a n g e r w a s a t h a n d , h e e n t e r e d t h e h o u s e .

W e w e r e l« d in to t h e c n o r t , tu a w a i t t h e r e a u l t u f t h m

e o n f i^ rc m e c : t h e o u t e r w a l l s h a d e x p c r i r a c e d t h e r a r a ^ ^

u f w a r , 8 o d w e r e f a l l i n g i n t o d e c a y . A w o m a n , b o o r in ^

a c h i l d i n h e r a r m a , w a a s e a t e d u n a p l a n k t h a t l a y a t

i h e e s i r c t n i i y o f t> > e c v u r t . S h e w a s e v id e n t l y a c c c s *

t o m e d tu t h e O u e r i l l a , a a s h e a c a r c e ly s o e m e d t o o b t e r r «

t b e i r a r r i v a l , t j u l p a i d n o a f te n t ic o i t o t h e s c e n e t h a t

« 8 8 p a s s i n g a r o u n d h e r . I n a f e w m i n u t e s t l i c C a p t a i n

r e - a p p e a r e d ; a n d , q u i t t i n g t h e r o a d t h a t w o u » 4 a lo n g

t h e d e l i l e , he l e d a c r o s s a n o(>en rn o c v . I n a n s w e r t o a

R a t i o n a a k e d h im b y m y i r i e n d P * '— >, h e « inB w ered—

** I f y o u a r e m e n o f h o n o u r , y o u a r e b e t r a y e d ; b u t , i f

a o , y o u h a r e n o t h i n g to fe a r* ’' ^ ( S » / f a a k r im h r e t d e h i m

S ia n v e n d i d o s . ) Here a a c e t i e u f a l u d i c r o u s n a t u r e oc*

c u r r e d . W e m e t a y o u n g p e a s a n t , w h < x n s o m e o f t h e

O u e r i l l a s e i z e d ; a r t d , s u s p e c t i n g t h a t h e i n t e n d e d to jn in

so r« * .

the mililiA, comprikd him to fulkw in theit t» ia . Aa I « w mouct«! ofl h f«o i« l£ , nnd roie iu t d r » « , the Ud InuglMd that I w . t c»pUiH «f tiie bw d, *nd implo«a i„y iotcrfereu« with 4 DM«t «ngiinly mixture cif fob* Bna MpplicAtic«». In *piic n»y assurtncM to the «MtTsry, he conliunefl ibcw w fe ra lio w f«morey, till he w m mfi.nnea 1-y the C»pt*in th»t my f « - dicAtftent wa* iwt rcw« hopcfil, ot my fcuthonty tpore «ien.3Y0.tli«u hi» uwD. l i e hi* ^»tMin of unmanly Unwnt*licm, %h*t f in t prorcJwd the e o « « .p t, K..d feiaUy the «njer, nf th e « b5«h^»«ted mf.na»i«ieer«. 1 '« the h o n ^ of SpA.n, I tr.w t *3d that 1 never » « » ««miW «i)«r»ctcr aowng her pe*> •tn iry ; und, indeed, from W» wh«q«emt m*niief, I helieTe the poor lad wm W f'»*tied.

The scenery hed i»ow mtteriftUy «h*ng«i: we »w w m c«*iunt* «»ged ui>oii low biU«, th»t rote c« e « h .ide, crownod with ini.t.ter, The licuieM ni aod im two folVwCTs, who h id rioittcd oa near 0 « fuuuttiP» »to^d on K neighlxmriog height, their wHd «nd m aitul Bguroi Teetiiig the »ky. A . we drew tie« , theycamo ru.hing Ormn to meet u», their drew « d wm i J)e*utiiully giWed hy the « tting wti.

A t lcf»i?th ibe Captain JefeireJ the h^nd tc» h a lt; and 1 percci»ed tSitt wc had reached o»o of tbe height* that oferlookft ihe m a i n r o ^ X f» o ra Barcelona to Madnd. We had tiMleU ibr many houra uodet a burning »tin j and, Mmp^Hely fatigued, threw our*e)vca on the rawf. W ub that cour»»y which had diBtinguiihed hia conduct during the day. the Captadn offered mo part of his plwd, aa we lay on the ground j but Sbocky was still indefniigabl«

m h ia f u s p i c i o n s . l i e r e n e w e d h i e a c r u i l n y , » n d p a r i i -

c u l a t l y c x f t i n i i i e d m y g là M , w b i c b b e e v id e n t l y i b o u g h t

v l b i g U ; a n t i -T o ;« U f i t c i^ t i s i r u c r io c ^ a o d e x p rC M ly

f o r ( b e p v irp o M o f r e c o D K u i t v r i n g th e b * ^ e i i i o n s . T « d

m i u u t e s h 4 d n o t e l a p s e d b v f c ^ w o e a w tw n o f ( b e b a n d ,

« 'i i o h a d b t c o p o s t e d o d t h e h e ig h t« , U c M e o d iD g ( b e

h i l l * i t J i m u a k c t» p r t s c n i c d . W e a l l a t a r l c d f r o t n ( b e

g r o u n d ] a n d I a a w w i t h p lc4u> ure o u r c a r r i a g e i u ( h e

m a d b e k w , » » w e s h o u l d h a r e b e e o « f f c c tu a l ly c o m p i o '

>o)M d i f u u r K r v a n ( B h a d n m h l e d (d j u i n a e a t t h e ap*

p u n t a i a p o t . A t t h i s s i g h t t h e G o e r U la c o u l d n o lo u g c r

r e t t r a i n t h e i r i n ip t i t i c n c e . I m t r u s h e d d o w D t b e e te e p ,

a n d f o r t h e f i r s t t i m e 1 w s b d c U v e r e d f r o m m ; p ? rs v *

c u ( o r S h o c k y . T b e C a p u i n d e l a y e d a n i u s t a n t ; t h e n ,

h aA tilT le& T in g u a Ì d t h e c b a r g e o f o n e o f h i a m e n , j o i n e d

b i a p « r ty , a a ( b e y h a d b e g u n t o ¡ i l u n d e r t h e c a m a g c .

W e » to o d a l o n e o n t h e m o o r w i t h <7ur C a t a l a n g u id e , a n d

t h e g u a r d , w b o c o u ld s c a r c e ly b a r e a t ( a i n e d t h e a g e o f

s e r e n ( e « a . O u r « i t u a d o D w a s a Q ll p r c c a r lo u a : w e h a d

a c o p y o f t h e S pA D Ìsb C o n a t i tu t io n i o t h e c a r r i a g e , t h a t ,

i f i o u n d , w o u ld l i a v e b e e n a g r ie v o u a o fT en c e . I r e m e n i*

h e r e i i a l s o ( b a t I ha< l d e ^ a i ( e d i n a d r a w t r o f m y U e»k ,

a t r i c c d o r , w b i c h h a d b e e n p r e a e o t c d ta m e d u r i n g th e

f i r s t d a y s o f ( b e r e v o lu t in n ( b i t a g i ta te O P i e d m o n t in t h e

p r e c c d i u g yeaj* j o n w h ic h ( b e w o r d s l i b e r t y a o d C o n a t i*

t u t i u a w e r e w o r k e d i n l a r j ^ c b a r a v t e r a . S u c h w o u ld

b s T e b v i m n a t u r a l l y a p p U r d t o S p a n i s h p o l ì t i c a ; u o r

i n d e e d c o u ld a « t r o o g e r p u i n i <>f c l r c n m a t a n t i a l e T id t-n c e

b a r e b e e n a d d u c e d i o c o n 6 n i i a t i o n o f t h e i r s u s p ic io n s .

T h i s d a n g e r w a s , h o w e v e r , i m a g i n a r y , a a m y d e a r a ia te r

h u d r e m o v e d i t f r o m m y des3c, w i th o u t D jy k u o w le d g « .

before I left E»gUn<l. L w tlj, tiiey »uspettcd thal I w&e •D ufiiccr in ibe Con»dCntionai militias ; and the diacorcry of my regimental uniform wyuld bave coiifirmed that belief. Oui l>c»t ¡tolicy wa® to juin tJie band, and direct tbe March that wc could not («vent. Escaping from our guard, we rtaclifd the camagc, Shnoky, »Iio lia<l probably never bcltcld a T e h i c b t> f ibia kind before, w m

chmbiTkg, like a iviW c»U ovft ics aides, and effcctin| an cniranoe. Tli» work of plunder and inveatigWioo proceeded gloriously under auch congenial auspicea ; some gnld »eale, &c. were < ^ u i c k l j dispo^nl of ; he seized a gold atid pUtiiia cbaiDiX'lxcad it round lil* neck, snd eipreascd his intent loo to » t i r Ìi«lffaya, sajiug it would be s Usk diatinctiva decoration. I now wpcrlcuced a sevpre loss ¡n (be defttriicdoD of tbe nr»{es which 1 had iTiade on the north of .\àìc» rim) ou Spwn, and wliicb liad been Vept with preat miuutene&s front ibe moment of our pauing tb i Pvrenees la the day «hat we lefl Barcelona. As Sbocky cxplowU my desk—« be removed each paper, that nothing migbt eKapv hw obserratiun—1 expected eêry moment tbat tlie fatal txicolwr would ap|«ear; nor couhl f account its non-appearance tillmyretuin to Etijjiand, Still llie disci^rcry of my uniform seemed almost inevitable ; ibe drak was disposed of. aud Shocky had in rad cd the tnm k that contained it, aod seizing part of jny earing 8jil»arf I, appT«ipriated i» tobimaelf, saying ii would remain in excpllfint iiwid». At ibia eri ileal moment, fanher searcli vaa prevented by tbe iiatoral pride of tbe Spaniali cbaractcr. Tb c Captain, for the first time, expressed bis conviction that we were men of hwwur and good faith, ( ' ‘ h i m h r e s d e h i e n y d e and perceiving the

p K ie a t o f S h o c k y ’a d ^ p r ^ l s t iu D S , M i d l h a t doC a n a r t i c le

o f O u t « In M t h o u l d b e t a k e n b y m e o w h o w « r e c m

r o b b o « , b v t d c fe rK le r« o f t h e F a i i h . T h e C a p t a i n n o w

coD sC A ied to r e l e a s e u s , a n d g a v e u a f>arL o f h i s c o e k i ^

i n t o k e n ^ ie n < lB h tp . W e t h o c k b a n d i w i l h h i i o , a n d

i n r r t u r a re ^ ^ o e s te d b i t a c c c p ta n c e o i M jm e p rc A e n ta o f

a l i g h t v a l u e , t h a t h a d e a c a p c d i n y f r i e n d S h u c k j * i

r a p e d t j . D u r i n g t h e i p r i n j ; o f i h e p r e c e d i n g y e a r , »

r e r o l u t i o n i e t w h o w a a d a n c i i i g r o u n d i h c t r i c o l o u r i t a n *

d a r d , o n t h e d a y t h a t t h e c v n s t i t u t i o n w a s j i r o c la im e d

a t N i c e , g a v e ff tc h i a t r i c o lo u r c o c k a d « , d e a i r i n ^ m e co

k e e p i t « « a m e in c iT ia l o f l i b e r t y ; a o d n u i r , b y a r i n ^ l a r

c h a n c c , I w a s g i r e n t h e b » d g e o f K o y a lJ a t ^ n d p l e s b y

a C h i e f i n a r o s f ^ r t h e R o y a l c a i u e . A f e w o f t h t

G u e j ^ l a c a m e Ttp a n d s h o o k h a n d s w i l h n s a e w e

p a r t e d . T l i e e u u w a s n o w a c t u a l l y siriking b e lo w th e

h u H m n , a n d t b e K C t>e a r o u n d u a w a a b a t h e d i n a

f l i x d cfT c r i m s o n ; b y t h i a l i g h t w c brw t h e m , tU l tb e y

i*c>% e n o c e a le d f r o m o o r ? ie w b y i h c t a r n i t i g nf t h e lo w i ,

g l i i t e r t n g o n t h e h ^ h t , a n d w a v i o g t h e i r b o n n e t s t o u a .

So iermioated ao adventure fraught witb peril, which gave me a deeper iiivgbt into tbe feeliui^ and opioions of the peasantry than could have been ohtaincd by yean of investigation ia ralmcr limes. Ou iho wKule, we had DO ^rronjid for complaint; they wtiuld bave proceeded aâiuM us somewhat hastily, h<ii ai a pcri>K] when the D^naliikitional iroopa.had orders to give no quarter, and the lU VHiisc in conacqncncc took oo prisoners, it could n«>t be cxpcetcO that evidence wonld be w«i|rhed with th^ diapasionate consideration tbat Is brought into a couit of juBLioc. Wii Iiad just left Barcelona, the fbma

vf CvtMÜtulional jwincijkles» and, milled by Talte foimatiwi, h»d inradai theit hold »t a raoraenS whcu ib t moyQ»n rtirrtxiiKicd b j 4ti ov«rwbelmi:ig force j tHuwant of ôod »nteUigence »«med iinprobftble; tlial wuc viwt ibyuW be uccasioned Uy moü?e« of mere curiosity, fcppeared »tili Diore eaitnwrdiMr), There exiwcd groun-ln for ».ispiaon; policy might ) » \ C jubtified the Hdopäon of extreme meMure*, «fHl few men wyiild h^ve conducted tliemielvea witii greater moderation under »he aggravaled cirrunutMcef iu which ihcy were plKed. They coiisldervJ the wm% of 'which they deprived uw ss a 6as fMrly levied in tbe King’s wrrice oo m a wbo had bcurrwl a much sever« penalty , by coining to their hat- nc*«e» frwn the very camp of their eneroies, provided wlih CotisdUitional pMsporii. Upon Üiia princij>I#, ihe C ..plain ^.uhoriaed the detention of our pbrtol», but would not tbc « ¡2 ure of a «ngle article of our wearing apparel; and N»ben * e l« d quilted the hand, a Guenll»- man, iofluenced by tbe wmc irregular principle of boneety, h » tfn ed to rettore o«ir drinWiog bota, xhich wa» iiandsoire» and >vouid hare been eiteeiocd a pri2e by aQ7 Sp^Loiard of bis cla*a. Sbocky. it m uit be ad- mitted, made qo rehnetl dubnciicina, and by oo means lho^^51 t ÜU! TMtitulioo of gnodi a uccessary ceremoni.1 10 be obwrvcil o d w r Uberaüoo. The Guerilla were joioed, al th« clo»e of t ie day, by two laWurers, whu drew tbeit musVeU from some hushes, where they were cooceakd; nidodmg these men, tlieli numbera, 1 bc- bevc, anw.mted to iwentj-Cve. They were only armed with cwahincs j a few, 1 tliink, harl »hört knivea, which could seldom be available in the field. Their mao acts

'J36 Nr>TK*.

«ere frank, ijianl)', aii<l above th«i/ itation; the? ver^ Mitcere in the opmiona wbkb th ev b a i Mnbraced> and were certucly cot, at tbat tuoe, influenced by fbreif'n agcncy. Iiwus melancliuly u» ibcatlacbmetit they devoted to a cause wboae failure, almoat certain fur tbe moment, would inevitably invulve their own de* srruction, and impMubie to refuae «. tribute cf adjntra* ticn U) ftnodple iiiisbaken by the extremity of dan^r. «nO encr^CB iw gcntroiisly tlinogL ijipflcctHHlly exertoi. The few opdnions w bkh they caaually expressed re- flj*ecting iheir cburcb were certainly bignted, and ex«g- gcmod bv the beat of party ; atill I believe tbat i>uch originated raiber in a generoaa sympathy with the pri<«tbfHHl, an«l in an attacliTnent to ihrir old institu-

which they aasoclatnd witli the caoic of Giid, than in any genuine iiitulcranee. In thia opinion 1 was confirmed by a few worda that pasted between two Goerilla-iBen, whoac moderation, aa applied to ourselves, formed a atrikiug contrast to ihe religic>ua borrvt wUh which tWy regarded the Conatitutionalists, “ Sem? maintain,** said the first to bis companion, (bat they m em ble tbe Moora, otbera deny i t ; J am ignorant hci>v them aticr stands, hut we am nil brolliCTB.” ( “ Uiuis di^cn ‘¡uv tim ctmo lo? MvroSt ofTOi no, w »a i<,

j>ô scmos tndai hrrrnanoiV'} This native gc>kCr(N iity brfaUng through the clmitl of prqudice and party— these sentlmenta utterecl by an uneducated soldier of tbe F»ilK—aurpriaed and pleated me £?reatly. I must notice one peculiarity, unusual to tbe SpanianlB, in aome’ degree, I sbink, altribuMhlr i-j the rcliyious character >vhich the war had ataumed: In their utmost c:iaB]icra-

ticm, IM 7K he»nl a eingle m»D give vent to I»» anger in •n oelh, « in Any irrellgeou* csprcMWD. W itli re*p«t to oniBelvc«, ft courtesy and 4 delicacy pervided tb«it conduct, »itoniiliiug, when w« cimeider with the exception yf the Capttiu and the Lieulentot, the men who ccmpo*ed the Guerilla were only j'twantB. They obari7ed m? d ien with atteDtlon» hut not wiih ruJcne»»; they examined a le re rt blow which 1 had receiTed over my eye many year» before, which they iho^^ht a aabx«* cut, and an aiditlooal proof of my coDnexion with the arcoyj but although they t(ue«tioned me freely on other p«n(B, they abstadnrd from any remarV wbich they cunceived might be personally uftnsire. In answer lo WDie plan j»cop«ed by the eternal Sbnoky. which htui for its olgcct the difcorcry of our intencinn in visiting ^ Bountbii, though wc ne?et understood iia nature, hts companion anawiTwJ. “ Seria m nypow delica<)«>.'’ iJ t vtruU be lUUc deiicale.) And iu this, as in many uthcT iaataDce», a deUc»cy of feeling; waa «liown that wogld have reflected honour on itfinwl society. When

were talceti, aAer the firat discusdon tbe licntenant callcd il» a»ide, and, regretting that the King’s service compelled Kim tn make, »uch a demand, deuied iia to deliver our gokl, uncoiiscioiis that Shocky'» seal had discmbarraaaed ua of all wc pueecs»^. Tbe »uhjeet waa never mentioned hy the Captaio, hut, afêr our carnage was U>ken, the Lieutenant renewed the request with the MniC giiatded dehcacy uf menncr, aAyini* (hat the defence of the muuiitain reqnired every atsiatance. Wlicu we assured tbun , io the earlier part of the day, th%t we bad given up all we had brought to the

v o l . . I . * Q

mnuDUiiif a1 (Lough they regarded oui coodact witb deep ftiupicum, even Shovk/, whu waa U>c least »atiftBcO, wtd b j f i r the lease cousidente of the b ind , did oitl Bt> (empt to ft£c«ttfiin ilift ficc. 1 might have cirrle*! ti> ns^ pockct half the gold uf which we were dispoMewed, had 1 concuivcd such cooduct either honourable or pnidect.

Ill Sixain a beggar wiU invite tho paseenger to ahare « ith bim hit l u i crust of bread: with the aune ch&ric* teriscic geueroflity, although they never scrupled to ex* press before us their belief io our gmlt, and their de^re of vcngcaiico, »till, whenever ihey piuw d in drink frotn the 8(rciuii, lUcv 'TceHcd us tu du au likewise; and while tliey touk some refreshment at ê reo tft, a Guenlla*mftn came out, and ofiering u t bnudy, preiaed us to dnnk it with good-humoured earnestness.

T h e a ll ia Q c e i b a t e x i s t e d b e t w e e n m e a o j S b u o k y

w a s c e r t u n l y o f a c u r lu u a a n d i n J c & n a b le c h a r a c t e r .

T l i i s m a n w a s t o t a l l y u n b k e t b e r e s t o f h i t c o m p iD to D S ,

a n d I n a l l respecte a p e r fe c c o r ig i n a l . H e )>08s e s s e d

n e i t h e r I h e p n t l e , t h e 8 ta li:)u ic#«> » w r t h e < l« lie* cy o f t h e

S p a n i s h c h a r a c t e r , b u t w a s g o o d * h u m o u re d , a n d n o t un *

g e n c T O u a ; h e w * a e u r in in g , a n d h » r l n m f h o f t h i t d r y w i t

p e c u l i a r t u t h e C a t a l a n s , w h ic h b e s o m e t im e e ex e rc iae f (>«ir c a p i u r c h e w o n t ix ir e v l u l o i t

i h i i n U ie r e s t ; w h e n t b e i r s u s p i c i o n s b a d a h a ic « ! , b e

»hoitik h a n d s V rith u e nk<wt w a t n i l y , a t i d w h e n t h e i r

d im h ia revived, h i s v o ic « w a s m o s t d e c i d e d ly a g u u s t u s .

D u r i n g u u i m » r c b , b e p r in c i |> a U y a t t a c h e d h l i n e c l f to m p ,

a a k i n g m a n y i n d i i f e r e n t , e o m n v e ry In H id iu u ^ q u c a t io M ,

VOTTK 359

and mingling ainicaWe'CoiJTersaüoD witb wpcatéd »»- aurancGs o f our de>troctiyii. The ardour with wbich he g4%e hi« voice for our de&th wheneTer the question wae agitutid, and» when ]ic w»* overruled, the na\\>eté with which he rrAumed h ú pl&cc ^ the of mv hot»«» 4od renewed the convereation without «ny ftppearsDcc u>‘ lU-vill, or tbe ellglitcat «usfticion that I could entertain feeling» of ill-humuur witb him for the part he had taken iu tl>c diJCUMion, were infinitely alnurd, Ke wa« «hört; his coancesance unprepos* aeuing, and at timee ferocious; liut, 1& hie good- humoured moments, there wa« a ü re lj and reckless exi>miion of eye, that, comhioed with che general ani- fflatioTi uf 111« tnauoer, diaguisvJ the oaLdral plainrteai of hi« features. 1 do not believe he w h s mahgoaai: h , supposed ua to be citcmiea, and possibly, like the ^ x - hunt»', who thinks tbo sport incomplete if he low hi* fo£, Bu Shocky ihooght that the day’s hu«iucBs >vuuld he uneatiiFaetory, if two stran ^rs of doubtful cbsjactcr were permitted to eMajxt. In the evening, when he M W UB exchanging prcacuts with the Captain, he caoê up in me actually «rra)cd iu my apoiia. and aiked, iu the must artless tone, whether no pn:acnt nas re«erred for hiin—“ Nada pa/d He evidently thoughtthat hia connexion with me during the match had fully entitled him Uj this portini; act of friendship, aod was in now'ise cancelled by the «ummat)/ proce^diiiga lie had «0 constantly ad\'íefd, or tbe rapidity with which every article of value had vanished under hie inspection. I laugbcl at hi« request, and witb eitme difficulty fiund an old kniJe, wluch I presented to him, and which he

<í2

mftT VDC« bave poatiblj applieit to tlie di««dvaotiê of »ooic C«jiisdlutioDfcl thro*t Tie Uxtk it gouJ-b u uwurefij, ft&d aft V« lost light of the Wild, ^*e saw him hia bm net h^bcr and longer tbso the re&t of hie cum- panions«

1 hare dwelt, perbap«, too W>g on details of iHii natur«; but i niibcd to make my reader in « m e ih- gree acqw iitcd witb the chan,cterof the lloyalUt in- eurgents, ta d with tbe iuWrinr, if I may une the exprte- »ion, of a Catalan Oueriila. The C ap ta^ »as dietiu- guished only bv a ha t which he wor« initcad of the bonAet. He had fijiight among thuae muuutaini m ihe war of Independence: he wae niiddle-ei«<l, but hli fenWrce were barxlBomc aud eipreaiivc j he seemed to be frvDi thirty to thirty-fite yeare of age, and wae app** rent]; a Pian of deep T«d«ctlon, ntul of eCrung ba t cvii- trolled paaeiona.

I have dwelt but slIgtKly C4i tb< mode of warfare peculiar to the Gaerlllax. ae it has been ao ofleL <le* acribcd by officers engaged iu the FeniosulHt war. Uur* ing the uivil war of 1822, tbe Cooatitutioti»! troops, compelled to attack the iueurgenta in thei; owii iaat- Tteaac», and frequently in situatiuna where cavalry le uae* lefta, soffered almoat equally from ?ictory aa from defeat Small parti« were totally deetroyed, iMirvyt cut ofl, and everr straj^le? from his reginaent doomed to de- atructlon; aomctimcs, at the call of a popular leader, like tbe Trappist, the Royaliet Guerillaa came dipwn from the nMraiifialoi«, like a whirlwiiwl, formed at once a powerful army, supplied the want of good discipline by fanaUc courage, Oferran tbe open country w d even

obtained posiesiiyn of tJie furtiftcd loinis. The Trap- p u t, fupposed to Uft in7QlDer»hlc, went to battk, raaim;«d on n black ch»^<*r, beAriog the ia ooe hsod aiid the cto«s in tifc other, and babit«d to his enu- naetlc garb, tbat was perforated «5 th muiltet-balla. Bc- fow iHc Cftinbai, he knelt upon thy ground, prayed fer- ?ently for aiicceaa, then b u « t iipcn the enemy with a Tilour that wa* tbouj»lit w pernttaral. Such was liii mfiuenee, t ^ t , at his approach, the tccon rang, and the peasantry' rose to aitns. He vas cônicted with the great cfterationa of that time, and bia fame baa•urviTcd; but other«, whose nAmes are se&rcely temesa* hered, appeared for a moment on thia scene of eenfuskuH pmiilated his actiuiia v^lthin the narrow Umiu of theii native dietrtct, acquired a great though bouTided infla* ence, aod atampe<l the war with an eztraordinar; chai* l A C t e r s^chiTEilry a n d d e Y o t i e o .

I am net adûaintal with the fate of our Captain and hia hsod. Few of the petty chieftain» who played a prtuaineot part in this early perwd o f the cirtl war, fui- vived tbe Ui»aatroa» day» that followed tbe Call of Cer- vera. The prineipal leaden had more rusourees at theif diapoaal, for tlic ino»t part racceeded in elfectiog theii escape into France, and re-ajipcai^ wiib |*rea(er force.

We !el^ Pampeluiia ixt tbe commencement of June, and pacing through »ome bold and beMutafui »cenery, followed Che ruwl tu Tolosa. The main p«M c»f the PyTeneet was at tbat time oecupiul by a Royaliet Gue>

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rtlta. On Icaviog i\»t Poeadt «t tbe «Q^raoce of ihc defile, we w en ipreceded b j a mac, vlinm J a f te n r^ » di»cu9er?d Co bo tlie Chief of (be bond, and ODe of the g^ârAo» of (}ie lUtnentAia apîc ted by tlie Ro)‘&UsU for tbe purpoM of cxamiBing suaplftiane perfonB a;id prottcling traveller» frOTci outrtiê. llojcnDedme aa I »aa waUaBg before tbe cajrUs<,aBd almoat inufivdiattiy led Che cunTereBtkm tu public eveoCs, aa if deuroa» of asccrouQii)^ my opinioca, 1 repbed freely, atid followed him «itiiout besicatiim A he entered a wood, nod led tbe way by n aKortcr pa(h to tbe main-road’: lie «'«s fleliyefl at Che want of n^picioii unpUe4j in my manrter, jm I cofltmiieil to dJ^ctua tbe poUa&al ievano^s of hi» party wlih much earDeetuess. Tliv fimtmeot of t>ie King and die clergy, and the aWUioa of tbe provinci^ distincCtons, formed Che |«incip«d causcâ of complaint; but bi» Inciîa^ was free frntn tbe bitterae«» y t prc>a< l e n t Id d i e dutncta that w e had lateJy f|H)i(eii: it w a »

lênera^ly conjiderate; and more ihao once he correeteJ himself whc'i lie bad in«de use of an espres&ion wbich be (hoiij'hC int«rapvnce. Not only tbe inaurroction wus rcccMl in Navarre, and mutuid mjuties had noC -yet, aa in Catalonia, brought every deadly paesiix) into play, buc ite population is less incraetxhle, and neither p*rty would have been so e a ^ r tu adopt the system of ex • lerrni)i4(inn (hut uharacterieed Che atrdggJe is Cata- luiiia. Id tbat proTinc«, che tnoit feriH'(i>UA acts were p«rp«trated by tbe catiTe militi««, and the Catxlao par* tUana w en dtstingulahed as tbe *‘ tm lb le Guedllae,” from their unrvleoCing reialiaiioii. In »illunon to the maawacres cngeoderei by this eyatem of war, (he Cortes,

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on the 25th or 26thio tn aildren pre«CTi(ed tu lli^ c^V ny, conclinie thwr review oh the itMe of Cutalonia id tbe tUlowing cxpreiaivc U o g u a g c S i r e , th« «ate- m cut which we hare laid^fi>re you it unhappily » e d by the differpDt fwilona tin t have pimultaaftjuftly appeared in C»ttlonUs where evcut* have nccarred that ure too horrible to recal u>* your rccoUectioji, an J that the pen tnmblea W recorJ.” But a miUer ep rit pre- vaiWd in Nftvarre. l ie loW i»c that, a (cw days lx*re, his band had captured a anaaJI party uf th« Cniwtitu- iional ttot>pi, but had only duarmeU them, and desired them to mskc ihe b«;Bl of their way to FBinpcluna, under the proiftction of the Deity. He serras to hare partly relied un a promiee »hlch he hud exacltUi a& the priev of iheir Uberailon, that they would not again bear amia

. iâitiat the soWicra of the Faith—an c»gi»«ement that •upera^M the severe loeatuica adopted in .Catalonia, where the difCculty of maintaining jnisooers in tlic aoMuLain fastncBwa rendered their execution, on the part of the Rnyaliits, not only an act of repnsal, but almost of aecesBajy jN>Ucy. ilo ipolte confideutly of the approaching in?aaiou hy tbe French troops, and tl>»'flL enthuBiMfctlcftlly ou the pradtce of the Baron EroloSf under whonk he had served, and who would again plate himself a t the hea«l of his andeut fol* lowers—a prediction that was afterwards verified- This valley, l»e said, was rendered famotit by the annihila* lion of « French regimonl, during the war of ludcjien- dencc ; , and he trusted ihe Const!luuonaliits would not provoke a similar fctc, by ?enCurii>g to attack them in their iaalncsacs. He tbcti gave me a detailed

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M c o u D t o f c h e i n a n o e r i n w b i c b h i e p « r t y b u i (jkfBeU a

b o d y u f c h e F r e n c h t r c v p » , « h o b a d c o m p i e r

a u r r e iD d e d t b e r a o u n U i a v h e r e t h e y h a d r e t r e a c u ì . I t

m'ali ^ s o l v e d t h a t t h e O u e r íB b e h o u ld ü s p v n e ; t b a t

e a c h iD a ti a l w i l d c h o o e c « « « p a r a t« p a t h ; b u t t h a t a l l

s h o u l d r e * M M m b le s t a g iv e n b o u r a o d a l t n 4 p j> o m tc« |

s p o t . T l ip y d i» |)C T «< I, *»ii3 e v e r y m a n l e f t t o h i e o w n

T e c o u rc e s e f ie c te d b i s e s c a p e ; n o r w a s a o in d iv i i l u a ] a b

s e n t w b e o t b e C a p t a i n c a l l e d o v e r t l i c i r n a m e * a t t h e

B ta te d t i m e a u d p la c e .

'W^ben we reached tbe middle of tbe pass, be t^hofied rae a rock on tbe opposite side, hanging over the stream that fluwol beocath, curercO with chestout and under* wood' There, be said, his Guerilla were conecalcd. A few rainutee later, he fired bis miieliCCas a signal chat they should not «kaceod at (he eouod of tbe carriage, aiid soon afterwards sbook bands with m« and 4epartotl During tbii coQTersation, io wtiich lie frankly but tem> perately ezprC9od his opinions, bis languag;(^ was »Iwtiv« elevatcd, and soraedmes tcripiural, 1 j^lvc one ppedmen o f his native eloquence : while be was epcsVing of (hr ndferings of the priesthood, he *aw seme li Ule children pls)ing on tlie road, and, Cuming to me, Mìd with vehemence,— Noiotros *QÌ»iMs h im la ley de a«tv¡ y la /ey de Dio» ; jitro efot ck icos-ûe Itfy «no^yru« P* W e are well acquainted with Che law of che old time aod the law of (Sod: but the»eb(Cle ooet^—« h at law will they know P—and hia *oÌCC faltered witb emotion,

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