quest CM19 itinerary · 2019. 3. 25. · Leticia more closely resembles a small Mexican town than your typical Colombian Puebla with its disorganised ramshackle streets, erratic traffic,

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LeticiamorecloselyresemblesasmallMexicantownthanyourtypicalColombianPueblawithitsdisorganisedramshacklestreets,erratictraffic,clutteredshopsandrawstreetrestaurants.EventhepeopleresidinginLeticiadifferinappearancetothepredominantlyHispanicColombianpopulation,obviouslyduetothestrongerindigenousbloodlinesprevalenthere.

ThesmallriverborderingLeticiaquicklyturnsintothevastwatersoftheAmazon.HeretheonesideoftheriverliestheAmazonianborderofColombiawhiledirectlyacrosstheriveristhenorthernborderofPeru.ThebordersofthreecountriesmeetonthewatersoftheAmazonhere,withColombia,Brazil,andPerualladjacenttoeachother

TravellingupstreamfromLeticiatoPuertoNariñoisatwo-hourjourneytravelingagainstthecurrentofthepowerfullyrawAmazonRiverandisanadventureinitself.TherichthickgreenAmazonianjungleliningthebanksoftheAmazoncontrastswiththemurkybrownwatersandtheblueskiesabove.Thatchedhousesofindigenoussettlementslinebothsidesoftheriverbanks.

WewilldisembarkfromourboatatthequaintandpeacefulriverfronttownofPuertoNariño.Thissmall,cuteandrelaxedvillagewithonly2,000inhabitantsisastarkcontrasttotheslightlychaotictownofLeticia.Itisaverysmall,clean,well-organisedvillage,withplentyofcharm;theEcovillageofPuertoNariñoistocertainlyaperfectbasefromwhichtoexploretheAmazon.Itwillbeapleasuretowanderthefootpathsofthisquaintpuebla,whichiscompletelyvoidoftraffic,withtheonlyvehicleherebeingthelocalvillagetractor.

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FreshwaterDolphinsoftheAmazon

Surprisinglythereareactuallytwodifferentspeciesofdolphinsthatliveheresidebyside.Withthelargerandmoreunusualspeciesbeingthepinkdolphins(Iniageoffrensis)whichtendtobelessactiveandslightlymoreelusive.Thepinkdolphinsareactuallynotdolphinsafterall,andareclassedbyscientistsastoothlesswhales.

Theyhavethelargestbodiesandbrainsofanyfreshwaterdolphin.

Outofthefivefreshwaterspecies,thepinkriverdolphincomesoutontop.Measuringatupto9feet/2.7meterslong,400pounds/181kilograms,andlivingupto30yearsold,theseanimalsaremassive.Theyalsohaveunusuallylargebrains,with40%morebraincapacitythanmosthumans,andupto80%morebraincapacitythanmanypoliticians.

They’reincrediblyagile.

Pinkriverdolphinshaveunfusedvertebraeintheirneck,unlikeotherdolphins.Thismeansthattheycanturntheirhead180degrees,allowingthemtomanoeuveraroundtreetrunks,rocks,andotherobstaclesfoundintheirmurkyriverenvironments.Theycanalsoswimforwardwithoneflipperwhilepaddlingbackwardswiththeother,lettingthemturnwithmoreprecision.They’refrequentlyseenswimmingupsidedown,possiblytohelpthemseethebottomoftheriverbetter.

PinkDolphinVideos:https://youtu.be/ZCJgvabihQ8andhttps://youtu.be/BewIxarkyVw

They’remoresolitarythanotherdolphins.

Thepinkriverdolphinisoftenseenaloneorinsmallgroupsof2-4individuals.Insomefood-richareasoratthemouthsoftheriverstheycanbefoundinlargergroups,butit’slesscommon.Despitelivinginsmallgroups,they’restillincrediblycuriousandoutgoinganimals,andfrequentlyinteractwithhumans

There’stonsofmythologysurroundingthem.

ThisdolphinisthesubjectofmanySouthAmericanlegends.Onestoryclaimsthatduringthenight,thedolphinsmorphintohandsomementoseducethewomenofthevillage.Anotherclaimsthatifyougoswimmingalone,thedolphinsmaywhiskyouawaytoamagicalunderwatercity.Itwasfrequentlyconsideredbadlucktoharmthem,andevenworselucktoeatthem.Theirstatusasasemi-magicalbeingmayhavehelpedprotectthespeciesbyencouraginghumanstotreatthemwellandpreserve

Whiletheirsmallergreycousinswhosportpinkbellies,RiverineTucuxi(Sotaliafluviatilis)havemoreincommonwiththeiroceandwellingbottlenosecousins.Thesecutelittleguystendtobefarmoreactive,playfulandvibrantandthusmakingthemmucheasiertospot.Thegreydolphinscanoftenbespottedjumpingcompletelyoutofthewaterandevenoccasionallydoingflips.Theselittlegreyguysarecute,reallycuteandareoftenspottedinasmallfamilypodwiththebabiescloselyfollowingbythesideoftheirmothers.

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