Rock Climbing in Kowloon, Qing Yuan County, Guangdong, PRC The following notes, maps and topos form a rough guide to most of the established climbing in the Kowloon (Nine Dragons) area of Qing Yuan County, Guangdong. This guide was updated in June 2006. The climbing was mostly developed from 2005 to 2006 so grades given may not be accurate and there is still some loose rock around. The rock is typical tropical limestone – dark and quite sharp where exposed to rainfall, lighter, smoother and providing great climbing where sheltered from the elements. The area has beautiful countryside giving a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for climbing. See attached maps for how to get to Kowloon and the locations of the cliffs with climbing established on them. It is possible to get to the area using public transport. However this is not recommended as it is infrequent and very time consuming. Without private transport it is also difficult to get to the climbing sites. Most climbers stay in the town of Kowloon. There are two or three small hotels, some restaurants, a supermarket, a wet market and small shops in Kowloon. It is a basic rural town with little tourism infrastructure. However, some mainland group tours come to the area to visit hot springs and take in the scenery. Take care not to confuse Kowloon in Qing Yuan county with Kowloon in Hong Kong. Although they have the same name, they are vastly different places. A brief description of the cliffs with climbing established on them is given below. Kowloon Peak A north west facing cliff with morning shade and afternoon sun. Generally dry in the rain due to large overhangs in the upper half of the cliff. The climbing is on the lower half on good yellow and white rock which is mostly less than vertical. There are around ten routes here from 5.5 to 5.11, all of which are good. All except two climbs are sport climbs. See photo topo for details. Little Temple Crag A short steep pocketed cliff with a small temple at the base. It is north facing with very easy access from the road. Much of the rock stays dry in the rain. There are four sport climbs here in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, all of which are steep. See photo topo for details. The Bamboo Grove A long cliff in a bamboo grove behind a village. A good path leads to the cliff which is only a minute or two from the road. The cliff faces south west but the base of the routes stays shaded by the bamboo. There are twelve sport routes here from 5.7 to 5.13. By the village there is a nice stream to cool off in coming out of the mouth of a cave. See topo for details. Suicide Slabs Some large dark grey slabs fifty metres above and behind a roadside temple. You may want to say a little prayer at the temple as some of the climbs here are traditional and are run out in places. The long corner on the right is 5.9, and the slab on the left is a run out 5.8. No topo. The Afternoon Crag A long cliff with a pleasant countryside setting good for picnics and camping. The approach drive is along a rough dirt road. This long grey cliff has quite a lot of natural lines and is situated at the top of a short slope with good views. It faces east and is in the shade in the afternoon. Some of the climbing is quite slabby but in other parts it is steeper. There are three climbs here at the moment – one bolted, one traditional and one top rope line. There is lots of potential for more. See photo topo for details. Bullshit Crag This crag has two short steep 5.10 sport routes at the left hand side of the cave. The main attraction of the crag is that the rock stays dry even in the heaviest rain. It is used as a cattle shelter sometimes so is not the cleanest environment. The left hand route is called Singing in the Rain (5.10c, sport, 10m, 6 bolts, FA Eman, Jerome) and the right hand route is Drilling in the Rain (5.10d, sport, 10m, 6 bolts, FA Eman, Monica, Cosmin). No topo.