UNIVE COLLEG ANALYSIS OF SPE Co SUBMITTED BY: S/N NAME 01. FAISAL BIN ALAM 02. MIR ABDUL NIME 03. 04. 05. 06. 07. 08. 09. 10. 11. 12. 13. ERSITY OF D GE OF TEXTILE ENGINEE TECHNOLOGY REPORT ON PROJECT WORK ECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE SUPERVISING TEACHER SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN Assistant professor, ollege of Textile Engineering & Technolo Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208 ROLL NO REG NO DHAKA ERING & E JERSEY FABRIC. ogy SESSION
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UNIVERSITY OF DHAKACOLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &
ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE JERSEY F ABRIC.
College of Textile Engineering & Technolog
SUBMITTED BY:
S/N NAME
01. FAISAL BIN ALAM
02. MIR ABDUL NIME
03.
04.
05.
06.
07.
08.
09.
10.
11.
12.
13.
UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA
COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &
TECHNOLOGY
REPORT ON
PROJECT WORK
ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE JERSEY F ABRIC.
SUPERVISING TEACHER
SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN Assistant professor,
College of Textile Engineering & TechnologTejgaon, Dhaka-1208
ROLL NO REG NO
UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &
ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE JERSEY F ABRIC.
College of Textile Engineering & Technology
SESSION
TO THOSE
WHO ARE INTERESTED TO LEARN
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
College of Textile Engineering & Technology has given us the opportunity to perform
the project work. We are obliged to MD. SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN, Assistant
professor, supervising Teacher of the college for giving us the opportunity to
accomplish of the project work.
We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to Md. MASHUD
AHMED, principle in-charge for his kind co-operation.
Heartfelt thanks goes to Senior Textile Engineers of various industries (DBL,
MEGHNA, ESQUIRE, S.M KNITTING INDUSTRY.) from whom we collect the
sample.
Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our college
and especially of FMT department for their kind inspiration and help, which remain us
the backdrop of all our efforts.
Finally, we would like to convey our acknowledgement that we remain responsible for
the inadequacies and errors, which doubtless remain.
ABSTRACT
At first we collect some of knitted fabric samples along with required data which are
needed to commence our project work with effective analysis. We also separate the
fabrics according to their class so that we can establish an acceptable result which will
be perfect for effective use and will help to carry out further activities depending on the
established form of work.
During our industrial attachment we manage to watch carefully and effectively the
knitted fabric specification along with machine specification and the major factors
which are necessary to calculate different types of variation and variable on which the
whole fabric construction depends. Our efforts were to develop a dependable way so
that we can easily visualize or can forecast the resulting fabric specification with
required configuration.
We have tried our best to emphasize on the adjustable points on which fabric G.S.M.,
stitch length, fabric width, & compactness directly or indirectly depends. The theoretical
as well as the practical knowledge that we gathered from our classes and in the industry,
help us to perform our project with credit and for this we specially convey thanks to our
honorable teachers.
KEY WORD
1. G.S.M.
2. Yarn Count.
3. Stitch length.
4. Yarn Diameter.
5. Fabric Width.
6. Machine gauge.
7. Needle gauge.
8. Wales space.
9. Needle pitch.
CONTENTS
Chapter no Chapter name Page no
Chapter 1 General Introduction
Chapter 2 Literature review
Chapter 3 Terminology & definition
Chapter 4 Fabric specification
Chapter 5 Machine specification
Chapter 6 Result & discussion
Bibliography
Appendix
CHAPTER 1
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface area
in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful
mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the term includes
assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven processes and
tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and machines which are
related to knitted fabric production.
A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and
system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the
requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends
per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width but in case of
knitted fabric specification GSM, stitch length are mainly considered.
The title of our project work is Analysis of knitted fabric specification and other related
machine specification. There are problem in our industries to produce knitted fabrics of
required G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric thickness is generally
maintained in industries by previous data sheet. For this reason there are problem if any
order comes which didn’t produced in previous.
Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, loop
The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:
a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.
b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.
c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.
d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.
e) Spandex: 40D, 70D.
f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.
g) Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc.
Other parameters are:
� Stitch length
� Fabric Structure.
� Finishing process.
� Depth of shade.
� Stitch density.
� Machine gauge.
RELATION BETWEEN YARN COUNT, FABRIC TYPE, STITCH LE NGTH AND
FINISH GSM:
Fabric Type Yarn count Stitch
length (mm)
Color
D×G
Finished
diameter
(inch)
Finished
GSM
Plain S/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26×24 30 220-230
,, 20s/1 2.98 White 30×24 33.5 200-210
,, 24s/1 2.68 White 30×24 32 175-185
,, 26s/1 2.66 White 30×24 31 160-170
,, 28s/1 2.70 Avg 26×24 25 150-160
,, 30s/1 2.68 Avg 30×24 30 130-140
,, 34s/1 2.40 Avg 26×24 24 125-135
,, 40s/1 2.44 Avg 24×24 20 100-110
Single
lacost
18s/1 3.00 Avg 30×24 46 245-255
,, 24s/1 2.64 Avg 30×24 40 210-215
,, 26s/1 2.60 Avg 30×24 36 200-210
,, 30s/1 2.50 Avg 30×24 33 180-190
1 × 1 Rib 26s/1 2.50 Avg 41 240
,, 24s/1 2.75 Avg 30×18 64 235
,, 26s/1 2.54 Avg 40×18 40 245
,, 26s/1 2.55 Avg 40×18 47 235
,, 26s/1 2.65 Avg 32×18 32 230
,, 36s/1 2.65 Avg 32×18 33 170
,, 24s/1 2.95 Avg 34×18 32 220
,, 24s/1 2.90 Avg 40×18 38 225
,, 28s/1 2.40 Avg 30×24 38.5 232
2 × 1 Rib 34s/1 2.60 Avg 40×18 23 190
,, 34s/1 2.70 Avg 32×18 20 185
1 × 1 lycra
rib
20s/1 +40D 3.30 Avg 36×18 32 320
,, 24s/1 +40D 3.00 Avg 30×18 30 280
,, 26s/1 +40D 2.90 Avg 30×18 30 260
,, 28s/1 +40D 2.80 Avg 30×18 30 250
,, 30s/1 +70D 2.60 Avg 32×20 28 260
,, 34s/1 +70D 2.44 Avg 30×18 26 240
2 × 2 rib 40s/1 2.76 Avg 30×20 35T 160
,, 28s/1 2.87 Avg 34×18 32T 260
,, 26s/1 3.25 Avg 34×18 31T 205
,, 24s/1 3.50 Avg 34×18 31.5T 285
,, 20s/1 3.25 Avg 34×20 55OP 260
2 × 2 lycra
rib
20s/1 +40D 3.10 Avg 30×18 18T 390
,, 24s/1 +40D 2.90 Avg 30×18 18T 320
,, 30s/1 +70D 2.90 Avg 240
,, 30s/1 +40D 2.98 Avg 240
,, 30s/1 +40D 2.80 Avg 30×18 220
Fleece 26s/1GM +
24s/1 c
2.78 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 220
,, 26s/1GM +
26s/1 c
2.78 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 220
,, 26s/1GM +
24s/1 c
2.85 + 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 240
,, 26s/1GM +
20s/1 c
2.90+ 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 220
,, 28s/1GM +
28s/1 c
2.8 + 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 235
,, 30s/1GM +
26s/1 c
2.8 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 175
By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data:
FOR SINGLE JERSEY:
Finished GSM Count Finished Diameter
140 30/1 Machine dia = Finished dia
160 26/1 Machine dia +1 = Finished dia
180 24/1 Machine dia + 2 = Finished dia
200 20/1 Machine dia + 3 = Finished dia
220 18/1 Machine dia + 4 = Finished dia
N.B: If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the
normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the
floating fibre and hairy fibre.
For light color, the finished GSM varies 1-2% from grey GSM.
For average color, the finished GSM varies 2-4%
If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but also yarn
tension & take-up roller.
COMMENT (Reference 1):
1. It is very distinct from these tables that there is no proof that these values are true, as they are not actual or experimental and they have taken these values from the mill and factory.
2. They have determined the value of count by beesleys balance. We never give the value of count in fraction but by our method we find that the value of count is most of the time is fraction.
From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the selection of yarn
count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types, fabric construction. List of
equations are tabulated below:
Name of the fabrics Equations
Single jersey Yarn count = - 0.141 GSM + 50.22
Pique Yarn count = - 0.146 GSM + 57.16
Double lacoste Yarn count = - 0.167 GSM + 64.36
1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.123 GSM + 54.57
Lycra 1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.119 GSM + 59.12
Lycra 2 x 2 Rib Yarn count = - 0.108 GSM + 56.62
Interlock Yarn count = - 0.206 GSM + 80.56
EQUATIONS FOR GETTING REQUIRED GSM FROM THE SPECIFI C YARN
COUNT:
Fabric Equations
Single jersey GSM = -6.879yarn count + 350.4
Lycra single jersey GSM = -4.9716 yarn count + 354.56
Pique GSM = -6.6737 yarn count + 386.44
1 1 Rib GSM = -7.9731 yarn count + 437.66
Lycra 1 1 Rib GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08
Lycra 2 2 Rib GSM = -9.1216 yarn count + 519.05
Interlock GSM = -4.778 yarn count + 388.41
EQUATION FOR DETERMINING FABRIC WIDTH:
Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space.
=No. of needle X Wales space.
= dgΠ X Wales space
Where,
d = Cylinder diameter.
g = Gauge.
FOR CALCULATING YARN DIAMETER:
Texdα
Cotton 7.26
FormmTex
d =
Ned
1α
Ned
91.0=
Relation among GSM, stitch length and yarn count can be derived from the following equation:
In the fully relaxed state the fabric thickness for double jersey,
t= 4d
For single jersey,
t = 2d
COMMENT (Reference 2):
1. It is understandable that gauge is an important factor for fabric width but actually the width of fabric is dependent upon the number of needle present in the machine. Often the number of needle present in the machine is not equal to dgΠ . So the equation should only be like following:
COMMENT (Reference 3): Different properties were found in Different knit structures according to stitch length, stitch density that means wales per inch, course per inch. Shortly they told loose structure that means higher loop length gives less GSM on fabric & compact structure that means shorter loop length gives high GSM on fabric. In their project analysis, they observed that single jersey plain structure & 1×1 plain rib structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is too small. But in single lacoste & polo-pique structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is high. Because single lacoste & polo-pique structure are made by combination of knit & tuck loops. They also analyzed that one knit loop consumes 30% more yarn than tuck loop. So calculated GSM is higher in single lacoste & polo-pique structure than single jersey plain structure & 1×1 plain rib structure. In general, the angle of spirality values decreases when the tightness factor values gets higher that is decrease of loop length in all knitted samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find an area to rotate & spirality increases. The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics knitted with open end yarns. This shows the effect of the spirality on twist liveliness. Fabric shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e.; single jersey, rib, interlock & their derivatives, yarn composition i.e.; 100% cotton, cotton & polyester & synthetic yarn.
CHAPTER 3
TERMINOLOGY & DEFINITION
TERMINOLOGY AND DEFINITION OF DIFFERENT KEYWORDS AR E
DISCUSSED BELOW:
WALES PER INCH:
Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important
for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.
COURSES PER INCH:
Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very
important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM.
STITCH LENGTH:
Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle
loop and half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the
adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in course in course length and it is that
which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.
YARN COUNT:
Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Yarn count is calculated in two systems:
a. Direct system
b. Indirect system
They are described below:
Direct system:
In this system the count lf yarn express the no. wt. units in one length unit. In direct system
“higher the count, coarser the yarn” This system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute etc
and count calculation formula is the following:
Count = Lw
lW
××
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.
Indirect system:
In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit weight. In this system
higher the yarn count finer the yarn. It is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc
and the yarn count calculation formula is the following:
Count = lW
wL
××
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.
GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.
Fabric area density:
Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,
Area density = 100
TlS ×× gm/m2
Here, T = Tex,
S = Stitch density,
l = Stitch length.
Fabric width:
Fabric width can be calculated by the following formula:
Fabric width = Kw
length Stitch length course ×
= Kw
length Stitch ××× Gdπ
Where, Stitch length is in cm
D = Machine diameter,
G = Machine Gauge and
Kw = 38 (for dry relaxed state)
= 41 (for wet relaxed state)
= 42.2 (for finished relaxed stat
CHAPTER 4
FABRIC SPECIFICATION
Elements of Specification:
1. GSM.
2. Loop length.
3. Yarn count.
4. Fabric width.
1. G.S.M:
The weight of fabric in gm per square meter is called G.S.M.
FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR REQUIRED G.S.M:
Yarn Count (English count):
Through our project work we manage to find out the following relation between
COMMENT: It’s clear from the chart that, the ratio of yarn dia to wales space is very near of 4. So we can say that one wales occupy 4d space, where d is the yarn diameter.
So, from the above chart, we found the relation between the yarn count and the WPI as follow,
WPI = 28 Ne
4
×
TABLE SHOWS THE ACTUAL WPI IN ACCORDANCE TO THE COU NT: