Professional Application Manual - · PDF fileThis manual contains a wealth of detailed “how to” information aimed at professional applicators, ... project management, typical paint

Professional

Application Manual Includes details on Perfection polyurethane finishes.

Introduction

Who is this for?

This manual contains a wealth of detailed “how to” information aimed at professional applicators,

designers, naval architects, project managers, estimators, specifiers, skippers and many other people involved in the finishing of marine craft.

Health and Safety, project management, typical paint specifications, how to apply primers, fillers,

Perfection and antifoulings are all covered along with specimen specifications.

It is a working document in that it should be kept handy to the workplace as well as the office

bookshelf.

We are sure you will find it useful and as always we appreciate feedback on other items you feel

could be included or indeed any improvements you feel could be made.

An allied manual for those with an interest in GRP vessels and osmosis treatment (repair and prevention) should request a copy of the Gelshield Plus Application Manual which is a treatise on

all aspects of osmosis in GRP vessels.

Also available is the comprehensive HT9000 Multipurpose Epoxy Resin Guide Manual that explains

in detail how to get the best from this versatile material. Also included in this manual is technical data and many pages of “how to” practical advice.

Australia Queensland. 115 Hyde Road, Yeronga, QLD 4104

Tel: 61 7 3892 8888, 1800 251 431

New Zealand

686 Rosebank Road, Avondale, Auckland Tel: 64 9 828 3009, 0800 808 807

Pacific Islands

115 Hyde Road, Yeronga Q 4103 Australia Tel: 61 7 3892 8816

Singapore 3 Neythal Road, Singapore 628570

Tel: +65 6261 5033

Edition 7, February 2015 Disclaimer All representations and statements concerning the product(s) in this brochure are accurate to the best of our knowledge. Statements made in this brochure are

advisory only and are not intended to be specific recommendations or warranties of any product, combination of products or fitness for any particular purpose. To the extent permitted by law, we do not accept any liability to any person for any loss or damage (direct or indirect) that may arise from any use of or reliance on any of the methods or information contained in the brochure for any purpose.

Unless otherwise agreed in writing, all products supplied and technical advice or recommendations given are advisory only and subject to the Conditions of Sale of our supplying company. Any warranties, if given, are contained in those standard Conditions of Sale and are the only ones made with respect to any products we

sell to you or advice or recommendations we give to you.

® International ® and all products mentioned in this brochure are trademarks of, or licensed to, Akzo Nobel © Akzo Nobel, 2003 International Coatings Limited, Stoneygate Lane, Felling, Gateshead NE10 0JY. Tel: +44 (0) 191 469 6111 Fax: +44 (0) 191 438 3711

Contents Index

Subject Page Number

Surface Preparation

Steel 1 Aluminium 3

GRP and Epoxy 5

Wood 7 Existing Paint Schemes 11

Repair 13

Application

Primers & Painting Tanks 14 Fillers 18

Antifoulings 21

Perfection Overview 23

Accelerator 24 Effect of moisture 25

Solvents (thinners) and solvent use 27 Viscosity conversion table 28

Spray equipment 28 Brush application guidelines 31

Detailing and chemicals 34

Tinted Perfection colour 34 General information on ancillary primers 35

Spray equipment for ancillary products 36 Pressure drops in airlines 38

Health & Safety Page 39

Paint Supplies, Storage and Shelf Life Page 40

Coating Diary Page 41

Coating schemes Page 43

Painting Project – Control Guidelines Page 52

Useful calculator tables (4) Page 58

Product Listings (names, equivalents, sales codes) Page 62

Easy reference sample specifications Page 63

Perfection details

1

Surface Preparation

Steel

Good Surface Preparation is essential if the full potential of high performance epoxy schemes is to be realised.

Grit blasting is preferable for the preparation of bare steel, however, disk grinding may be used

for the preparation of welds and limited areas where blasting is impractical. Wire brushing is

ineffective and should not be used with these painting schemes.

Abrasive grit blasting Abrasive Grit Blasting is by far the most effective method for removal of mill scale, rust and old

coatings. The commonly used grades of blast cleaning, and the approximate equivalents between

various international standards are as follows:

USA Specs SSPC

NACE Australian British Standards

4232

Swedish Standards

SIS 05.5900

Japanese Standard

s SPSS

White

Metal

SSPC-SP.5 NACE #1 AS1627.4 Class 3 First Quality Sa 3 JASh3 or JASd3

Near White Metal

SSPC-SP 10 NACE #2 AS1627.4 Class 2.5 Second Quality Sa 2½ JASh2 or JASd2

Commercial Blast

SSPC-SP .6 NACE #3 AS1627.4 Class 2 Third Quality Sa 2 JASh1 or JASd1

The preparation standard required for any particular coating specification depends upon a number

of factors, the most important of which is the type of coating system selected.

Prior to blasting, steelwork should be degreased with a suitable detergent and weld spatter removed. If grease or oil is present on the surface, it will appear to be removed by the blasting

process, but this is not the case and it should be removed. Although not visible, contamination will still be present as a thin layer, and will affect the adhesion of subsequent coatings. Weld

seams and sharp edges should be ground down, as paint tends to run away from sharp edges,

resulting in thin coatings and reduced protection. Weld spatter is a common cause of premature failure as it is almost impossible to coat evenly and is often loosely adhered.

The surface profile achieved during blasting is important, and will depend upon the abrasive used,

the air pressure and the blasting technique. An inadequate profile will not provide sufficient

mechanical key for adhesion of the coatings. An excessive profile may result in uneven coverage of high, sharp peaks leading to premature failure, particularly when using thin coatings such as

blast primers. Consult your local supplier for details of suitable blasting media. It is essential that all debris be removed by vacuum cleaning before painting commences.

2

Shop Primed Steel Steel is frequently supplied ready blasted and primed - these primers are commonly referred to as

‘pre-treatment’ or ‘shop’ primers. Care should be taken during fabrication to prevent the primers being damaged. The primers themselves are capable of protecting the steel even in aggressive

industrial/marine environments for up to 6 months. Additional coats of these types of primers

should NOT be applied, as this will compromise the integrity of the painting scheme.

Over-coating of these primers without blasting back to the bare steel is often possible. Consult your International Technical Representative to confirm which primers can be over-coated in this

way.

Mechanical Abrasion

Preparation of the steel using an abrasive disk grinder must be preceded with surface degreasing using a solvent wash and clean dry rag. Disk grind the steel with 24 to 36 grit disks to a uniform,

clean bright metal leaving a 50 - 75 micron (2-3 mil) anchor pattern.

Priming Interval

Once the surface has been prepared to the correct standard, it must be over-coated before oxides start to form on the surface. If the coating scheme is not scheduled to be applied immediately

following the preparation procedure, a Holding Primer should be applied to prevent rusting, preferably within a 6-8 hour period. If the scheme is to be applied directly following the

preparation, the Initial Primer can be applied thinned appropriately to promote surface wetting.

Refer to Priming Application further on in this manual.

Summary Surface preparation invariably involves blasting to a minimum of Sa 2½. Prior to blasting:

Steelwork should be degreased and weld splatter removed.

Weld seams and sharp edges should be ground down to prevent too thin coatings being applied. The profile achieved will depend on the abrasive used, the air pressure and the blasting

technique, Inadequate profile = Insufficient mechanical key.

Excessive profile = Uneven coverage of sharp peaks.

All debris must be removed by vacuum cleaning prior to painting. Compare blast profile to the standard photograph for colour of steel.

Measure Mean Apparent Amplitude (MAA) using the surface profile gauge making sure the steel is

not shadowed, contaminated or containing embedded grit.

3

Surface Preparation

Aluminium

Very thorough surface preparation of Aluminium is essential if the coating scheme applied is to

perform well. Aluminium, although when used in the marine industry is alloyed with magnesium,

is a reactive metal, whose surface will react with atmospheric oxygen to form an almost invisible oxide layer. This occurs almost instantly on cutting or abrading, and can only be prevented under

impractical laboratory conditions. Moreover in damp marine environments a portion of the oxide will, in the passage of time, convert to the lighter and more visible hydroxide.

Furthermore, aluminium is prone to corrosion in a marine environment, particularly in confined

spaces such as crevices and behind poorly adherent paint films. Therefore good surface

protection is of paramount importance.

Aluminium can suffer serious galvanic corrosion unless care is taken in the choice of underwater fittings, propellers etc. In this respect, the use of cuprous oxide or metallic flake containing

antifouling should be avoided. Reference should be made to the section on Antifouling

application.

Degreasing Before any other preparation commences, the aluminium surface must be thoroughly degreased

to remove flushing oils and other surface contamination. Solvent wiping using clean cloths can

effectively degrease small areas, but these must be changed frequently to avoid re-distributing contaminants. Large areas should be degreased with a suitable detergent. Some areas may

require repeated application, and vigorous cloth rubbing to remove all contamination. Alternatively a solvent may be used such as reputable “Wipe-down Solvent”.

Once degreased, the surface must not be touched by hand until painted, in order to avoid grease

spots and consequent paint detachment.

Grit Blasting

Grit Blasting is the preferred method of preparation, as it provides an ideal profile for good paint adhesion and removes surface corrosion.

Ideally aluminium oxide grit should be used, and a suitable grade chosen to achieve a surface profile of 50-75 microns (2-3 mils). Aluminium oxide abrasives, whilst expensive, can normally be

re-used without detriment to the surface profile. Other suitable inert abrasives do exist and advice should be obtained from the suppliers of the blasting aggregate.

Sand is not ideal for grit blasting as, apart from being injurious to health, it is often not sharp enough to provide the necessary surface profile. The use of copper slag abrasives (as often used on steel) must be avoided, as these will promote serious corrosion.

Once blasted, all debris should be completely removed, followed by application of the Initial Primer or a Holding Primer, ideally within a 6-8 hour period.

Mechanical Abrasion As an alternative mechanical method, aluminium may be prepared by abrasive disk to provide the

necessary surface profile for good paint adhesion. Whilst this is not as effective as grit blasting, this method has been used successfully by many yards.

A coarse abrasive disk (Aluminium Oxide) should be used (24-36 grit) to achieve a heavily scored surface profile of 50-75 microns (2-3 mils). After grinding, the surface should be vacuum

cleaned, followed by application of the Initial Primer or a Holding Primer, within a 6-8 hour period.

4

Under no circumstances must any form of lubricant or anti-blocking compound be used on the grinding discs or the aluminium surface as this will result in delamination

of the paint system.

Etch Primers Etch primers achieve adhesion by chemical reaction with the substrate, and may be applied

directly to a degreased surface, but for optimum performance the aluminium should be lightly abraded to offer some mechanical adhesion. If etch primer is applied to a ground or blasted

surface, accurate control of film thickness is important. Over-application to any surface must be avoided as this will lead to failure through solvent absorption or splitting of the primer film.

Temperature during application is also important, and a minimum substrate temperature of 10°C

(50°F) must be maintained.

Once applied, etch primers must be over-coated with a suitable primer of correct film thickness within the recommended over-coating period. They must not be used in potable water tanks.

Chemical (‘Mil-Spec’) Pre-treatments Whilst often effective, these are complex and employ chemicals hazardous for large-scale use.

They are also coming under increasing environmental pressure, and will not be considered further here, as their use is beyond the scope of this article.

Chemical (‘Mil-Spec’) Pre-treatments Anodised Aluminium

Anodised Aluminium is often required to be painted and special techniques are required to

achieve this.

If a full filling and fairing system is to be applied it is recommended that the surface be well

profiled by removing all anodising and treating the aluminium surface as described previously. If the surface is to be painted only, then the surface should be abraded with 180 -220 grit paper

to provide a water break free surface.

Etch Primer should then be applied followed by the chosen paint system.

Summary

Surface preparation invariably involves blasting to a surface profile of 50-75 microns (2-3 mils). Prior to blasting:

The surface should be degreased and weld splatter removed. Weld seams and sharp edges

should be ground down to prevent too thin coatings being applied. The profile achieved will depend on the abrasive used, the air pressure and the blasting

technique,

Inadequate profile = Insufficient mechanical key.

Excessive profile = Uneven coverage of sharp peaks.

All debris must be removed by vacuum cleaning prior to painting.

Compare blast profile to the standard photograph for colour of steel.

Measure Mean Apparent Amplitude (MAA) using the surface profile gauge making sure the aluminium is not shadowed, contaminated or containing embedded grit.

5

Surface Preparation

GRP/Epoxy Composites

Female Moulded GRP

Fibreglass hulls and components are often made in a mould and therefore it follows that to release them from the female mould, a release agent of various types will have been used.

These can vary from silicone-modified waxes, to hard pure waxes to water miscible polyvinyl

alcohol release agents. In the case of some GRP/FRP composites the mould is a male mould and

the release agent is therefore on the inside of the structure rather than the outside. In either case they must be removed before painting can commence and emulsifying with detergent before

thoroughly washing off with fresh water usually does this.

A key indicator to thorough removal of release agent is that the surface will become fully wetted

with water if all mould release agents has been removed. If release agents remain, water will remain in droplets on the surface. In this instance the process should be repeated.

Male Moulded FRP/Composite

In many cases and in particular with the higher performance composite constructions, larger structures tend not to be built using a female mould, being built over frames and inverted before

painting takes place.

In this instance the outer polyester surface will not be coated with mould release agent and you

will be presented with a surface rich polyester lay up. This will either have had wax or some similar additive added to ensure full cure of the polyester or else no additives added and the

resulting surface will present a partially cured surface. Either way the surface requires to be

removed by sanding in the case of a waxed surface or solvent washing to remove uncured resin and then followed by heavy sanding.

It should be noted that these surfaces are more difficult to prepare than hulls removed from a

mould and may take several applications and some abrasion to render the surface suitable for

painting. Again a water-wetting test is a good indicator that the surface is satisfactory for painting. If unsatisfactory, water droplets will form as distinct from fully wetting out on an

adequately prepared surface.

If a nylon peel ply has been used to finish off these outer layers, simple removal of this layer will present a chemically clean, mechanically keyed surface to which an epoxy primer can be applied

with minimal extra labour.

A suitable period of time should be allowed between the completion of any lamination and the

application of epoxy primer to ensure that the polyester or vinyl ester resin (does not apply to epoxy laminates) has cured sufficiently to avoid un-reacted styrene inhibiting the cure of the

epoxy. Consult your International Technical Representative for advice on this.

As with all GRP structures the surface should be carefully checked for pinholing that requires to

be filled before paint application takes place. Failure to do so will render the finish unsatisfactory. It is also advisable to check for air occlusions in the laminate surface and arrange for them to be

cut out and filled after the hull is degreased and before paint applications. Whilst initially this will not affect the finished appearance, air occlusions give way to blistering

and/or craze cracking once the vessel is in service.

6

Epoxy Surfaces

Epoxy composite surfaces are many and varied and range from resin rich to resin lean and vary in

degree or cure depending on whether the laminate has been room temperature cured or post cured at elevated temperatures.

Basically each laminate painted must be dealt with as a one off surface as no two are likely to be

the same. Before painting or filling and fairing some degree of surface preparation is inevitably required.

Resin lean laminates that have been well cured may require the laminator to apply a surface layer of resin suitably cured so that this sacrificial layer can be sanded to give a profile suitable for

painting. Sanding a resin lean laminate can result in damage to the fabric lay up especially with carbon fibre and Kevlar types.

Some laminate surfaces will under low power magnification reveal high levels of pin holes and air inclusions at or near the surface rendering the surface unfit for preparation and painting. Again

the laminate manufacturer must make good this type of surface.

Peel ply surfaces can also reveal many surface defects so such a surface is not necessarily okay to

paint as is.

The final result required is a layer of epoxy that has been well sanded to reveal a dull even finish free from pin holes or air inclusions at or just below the surface.

Summary

For the moulded face of the substrate, the mould release agent must be thoroughly removed by

detergent cleaners or special solvents, and possibly sanding.

Any gelcoat surface should then be checked for: Pinholes - if present these will need to be filled prior to painting.

Star Crazes - very difficult to detect and sometimes only show up after the first coat of paint has

been applied. They need to be ground out and filled. Blisters - this may mean moisture content, so the hull should be checked for osmotic attack

using a moisture meter. If osmosis is present the gelcoat will need to be removed and an osmosis treatment scheme applied.

All surfaces should be abraded with 180 - 220 grade papers to ensure a good mechanical key is

present.

7

Surface Preparation

Wood

Wood is the only natural boat building material in use today. Perhaps this is why wood is so

aesthetically pleasing and it is certainly why wooden trim, rails in particular, is so widely used on

pleasure craft. As wood species vary immensely it is not intended to go into any detail here. If in doubt you are advised to consult your International Technical Representative for advice on

surface preparation. However, the following are basic pointers for those approaching this for the first time.

All boat-building materials have advantages and disadvantages and wood is no exception. Firstly

wood can rot although in yacht construction only those timbers with the highest levels of rot

resistance are used. These are timbers of high natural oil content; Afrormosia, Burmese teak and Utile being common amongst the many species used. Secondly, timber expands and contracts as

it absorbs moisture and dries out and therefore its movement is often much greater than that experienced with other construction materials.

Using modern paint technology it is possible to place an almost impermeable membrane over a wooden hull. Wood/epoxy composites are a typical example of this. But remember … older boats,

often undergoing major re-fits, need to absorb a small amount of moisture to swell the planking and keep the seams tight. So the type of construction governs the type of paint system.

Traditionally constructed classic vessels use combinations of hard and soft (softer) timbers. Various species have qualities that necessitate different paints. If you have any doubts about the

type of paint required for the constructional type of vessel you are maintaining consult your

International Technical Representative.

Old bare wood should be checked for wet rot, gribble or teredo worm, signs of reaction with metals, cracking, or flexing allowing water penetration. Wet rot usually occurs if the moisture

content of the timber exceeds 30% and is attacked by microscopic fungi. Any exposed timber will

be seen as dark in colour and whilst still wet is compressible and friable when dry. Salt water tends to retard wet rot but as many vessels moor in harbours prone to fresh water layering the

risk is a realistic one. Gribble is a crustacean about 3 mm long. It lives in salt water and bores into timber eventually reducing it to a crumbling mass. However, it is incapable of boring through well-

painted surfaces. The same can be said of the teredo worm. The tiny worm enters the timber through damage to the paintwork and eats its way progressively along the grain. Sound

paintwork prevents this. Splits and cracks in timber need careful examination to establish the

true cause and effect before painting.

The foregoing is a basic guide for inspecting wooden vessels in service. We now reach the point where preparation needs to be considered.

It may prove necessary to remove old coatings, a common method being to burn it off. This is a very effective method but there are points to be aware of and care to be taken. Burning off

should be carried out in open air or well-ventilated conditions. Whilst modern gas torches are more controllable than the traditional blow torch, areas to be varnished need careful attention to

prevent unsightly scorching of the timber. Beware of burned off material falling to the ground and

continuing to burn. Keep the area below clear of combustible materials. Do not burn off or dry sand antifouling since the dust and degradation product are at least irritating and at worst

toxic. Consult the manufacturer’s safety data sheets before attempting to burn off paint. More modern methods of paint removal on timber include bead blasting with microscopic beads at low

pressure. Hydro-blasting has also been used.

All bare wood should be sanded down either by hand or mechanical methods. Always sand along

the grain to remove remnants of old paint out of the grain. Sanding across the grain causes scratches, which even in new construction cannot be camouflaged and would show as unsightly

marks particularly when varnishing. All traces of sanding dust must be removed as this will impair adhesion and produce a bitty finish. With oily woods such as teak, swab the surface with a strong

solvent and wipe down with lint free cloths, followed by sanding. This removes the residual oil

which otherwise would impair subsequent paint or varnish adhesion.

8

Grades of paper vary between brands so the exact grades used may need to vary from those shown. Depending on the final surface hardness of the paint, grades of paper used may need to change. The aim should be to use grades of paper such that no sanding marks print through the final finish when the system has reached its final cured state.

Grade of paper Typical use

60/80/100 When used for sanding timber it should be used in the direction of the grain to remove

remnants of old paint that have been burnt off or stripped with paint stripper. Will leave timber in a scratched condition.

Also used for sanding epoxy based fillers and removal of heavy build-up of old paint

schemes.

180 Used for sanding epoxy primers prior to applying the final coats of finishing primer or undercoat

180 - 220 Often used on new wood or timber that has been burned off. Would not advise using on

timber, which is to be varnished, as it is too course. Widely used for sanding dressing fillers and fine surfacing compounds, high build primers etc.

240 One of the most widely used rubbing down papers. Final sanding of primers is not uncommon nor is the rubbing down of old enamel prior to re-coating with either basecoat

or finishes. If print thru of sanding marks occurs switch to 320 - 400.

280 Used for sanding timber prior to varnishing especially with single pack varnishes.

320 - 400 Use on undercoats or primers before application of finish coats and for freshly applied finish coats prior to applying further finish coats. 400 grade used for sanding varnishes

before applying final coat.

400 - 600 Mainly used for taking out blemishes in paint films prior to the application of final coat or

glaze coat.

800 upwards Mainly used for burnishing and polishing.

Painting and Varnishing Timber Varnished wood brings charm and character to any vessel. Unfortunately it can also bring

problems and extra work if it is to enhance the appearance of the vessel. Wood has to contend with sun and sea and often with harsh chemicals such as teak deck treatments that can run or be

splashed over its surface. Flaking varnish, blackened or discoloured woods are problems we have

all seen but careful preparation and good application practices can overcome this, particularly with today’s sophisticated paints and varnishes.

For varnishing, once all dust is removed, apply the first coat of varnish usually thinned by 25%,

(check the appropriate specification in this manual) which will seal the timber before further

varnishing. In certain types of timber multiple thinned coats of varnish may be required before full coats can be applied.

For painted surfaces the same principle applies. Thinned coats of initial primer will aid penetration

of the timber and subsequent adhesion of the scheme. Paint specifications are written for

guidance and it may be when painting certain types of timber that extra coats of primer are required for those of a more porous nature.

Certain timbers, those of a less oily nature, may need a timber preservative before priming. If in

doubt consult your International Technical Representative. When wet sanding primer take care not to abrade through to bare timber. Wet sanding should

only take place when an adequate thickness of primer is on the surface.

9

Boat Building Timbers - Some Typical Characteristics Species Hard

Soft

Main

Country of Origin

Colour Density

per cubic foot

Rot

resist-ance

Characteristics

Larch Soft Europe Yellow/ Brown

20 - 23 Good Tough, durable but resinous. Excellent for planking. Not difficult to paint.

Parana Pine

Soft South America

Cream/ Brown

14-16 Poor Tough even texture but easily warps. Absorbent when painting usually needs a timber preservative.

Pitch Pine Soft Honduras Red/ Brown

22-24 Good Resinous, flammable but very durable. Excellent for planking. Sometimes difficult to wet out when applying primers, must thin first coats to assist timber penetration.

Red Baltic

Pine

Soft Russia/UK/

Scandinavia

Yellow/

Red Brown

11-12 Good Prone to shrink. Knots liable to

dry and drop out. Darkens with age. No good for varnishing due to natural discoloration of timber. Primes easily.

Spruce Soft Europe Yellow /Brown

20-22 Good Durable, tough but resinous. Mainly used for masts and spars and occasionally for small clinker craft. Easy to prime or varnish.

Western Red Cedar

Soft Canada Yellow tan 10-11 Very good

Very straight grained. Easy to paint and varnish. Tendency to be absorbent.

Afrormosia Hard Africa Brown 18-24 Very good

Hard, close-grained often used as a substitute for teak particularly for decks and superstructures. Paint and varnish as for teak.

Ash Hard Japan Europe

White cream

15-16 Good Straight grain mainly used for frames. Take care wetting out with primer.

Mahogany Hard Sth America Africa

Reddish Brown

14-15 Good Varying species widely used for fitting interiors, planking, bulkheads etc. Can be painted and varnished without difficulty.

Oak Hard UK/USA Japan

Yellow Lt.Brown

20-23 Good Mainly used for frames and fittings. Very acid timber discolours steel fittings. Difficult to wet out with paints and varnishes. Initial coats may appear to be cissing.(fish eyes)

Obeche Hard Africa Light Yellow

9-11 Poor Used in cheap cabin furnishings. Difficult to paint or varnish absorbs unevenly.

Ramin Hard Malaysia Straw 18-19 Good Tendency to split. Not difficult to paint or varnish.

Teak Hard India Burma Brown 20-24 Very good

Extremely durable and stable. Difficult to paint and varnish may need special products. Can be used for almost any part of yacht construction.

Utile Hard Central Africa

Reddish Brown

15-18 Very good

Veneers and marine ply are major uses and cabin furniture. Not difficult to paint or varnish.

Iroko Hard Africa Brown 20-24 Very good

Not related to teak but almost as good. Used as for teak but not so attractive when varnished.

10

Miscellaneous Points An average ‘dry’ piece of timber contains about 10 -12% moisture, whilst kiln dried can be as low

as 5%. Any excessive variation from this will cause problems. Excessive moisture in timber can weaken glue; corrode metal fastenings and cause warping.

Reaction with metals. Acid in timber can affect metal fastenings particularly in the older vessel. A typical example would be mahogany on oak with steel fastenings if the insulation has become

damaged. This will be seen as blue/black staining.

Remember also that if treating plywood surfaces, particularly those panels that have been bent to a curve, the outer veneer will be stretched, which may later result in tension cracking that will

break the paint film and allow water ingress. Check carefully before painting.

Important note: Painting a wooden surface with a 2-component polyurethane and epoxy coating system is by its very nature, complex. Wood shrinks and swells as it absorbs moisture, unless it is completely

encased in an epoxy in which case it is considered a composite. Epoxies and polyurethane don’t

absorb water vapour to the same degree, and because of the movement inherent in a wooden vessel whilst at sea, an epoxy and polyurethane coating system is very often in a state of stress.

Over time this stress will likely cause a release of the coating system from the substrate. The amount of time this takes is a function of the type of wood, the condition of the wood at the time

of painting, the quality of the preparation, and the type of construction of the vessel. For this

reason it is not possible to warrant a coating system on a wood substrate.

A wood surface that has one or more coats of an enamel, enamel primer, or a one-part urethane or epoxy topcoat on it should be stripped prior to re-coating with a 2- component polyurethane

11

Surface Preparation

Existing Paint Schemes

In general, existing paint schemes require a relatively straightforward preparation regime.

However, in some instances the existing paint scheme is being over-coated following a scheme failure of some sort. In this situation it is essential that the cause of the failure be known in order

that the correct coatings and preparation are utilised to minimise, or eliminate re-occurrence. As

these circumstances will vary from case to case it is not intended to cover all situations here. The following is just a guide covering a limited number of aspects. Consult your International

Technical Representative for advice on how to proceed in these circumstances.

Summary of key points in the preparation of existing, non-immersed painted surfaces

Once a vessel has been at sea for some time the surface presented to the painter is one

contaminated by much more than salt crystals.

All surfaces should be thoroughly degreased using a suitable liquid detergent. Additional

degreasing with a solvent wipe may be necessary in some situations or where there are

traces of grease or silicones present. This is particularly relevant to those vessels that have been repeatedly polished. To help determine whether the surface is free from

contamination, wet the surface with water. If the water forms droplets the surface remains contaminated but if the water wets the surface uniformly (“Sheet out”) additional

degreasing should not be necessary. If there is unevenness of the surface wetting, further degreasing is required.

Abrade with 180-280 grade wet or dry paper. This will provide a mechanically keyed

surface for maximum adhesion of primer, undercoat or finish. Should the preparation be by hand it is recommended that a slightly finer grade e.g. 320 – 360 wet or dry paper is

used.

Remove all sanding residues with a clean airline and sweeping with a clean brush or

broom. Vacuum clean for best results.

After cleaning away all initial debris and contamination the surface should be carefully

examined. Look for evidence of blistering around door hinges and catches. Look for

breaks in the caulking compound allowing water underneath surfaces, typically found around windows. Look for cracks in the paintwork or any cathodic action due to dissimilar

metal combinations; typical being screws around hinges and other skin fittings. Examine the bedding compound around all skin fittings, check for blistering. The foregoing type of

examination may reveal a host of defects usually caused by general wear and tear,

seepage of water through the smallest of void and a host of other reasons. Such surfaces need re-preparation. If this is the case you should refer to the following section that

outlines the repairing of damaged/blistered surfaces. If, after examination, the surface remains sound then re-coating can commence.

If in doubt about the cleanliness of surface preparation wipe down with a reputable “Wipe

Down Solvent” using clean, lint free cloth.

Immediately prior to application, wipe the surface with a tack rag.

Important note:

A surface that has one or more coats of enamel, enamel primer, or any one-part epoxy or urethane on should be stripped before re-coating with a 2-component system. Although it is

possible to prime and paint over these coatings that are in good condition, it is not advisable since

the incompatibility of the systems will cause it to fail sooner or later. No Guarantee can be given for projects undertaken over these types of coatings.

12

Because there is no way to determine the condition of an existing coating system 100%, it is always advisable to strip off the existing system before repainting the vessel. Under no

circumstances can a guarantee be given for the performance of anything but the new products being applied as part of the re-coating project. It is also important to note that any deterioration

of the new system caused by a failure of the old system will not be guaranteed

Summary of key points in the preparation of previously antifouled and immersed surfaces

It needs to be recognised from the outset that antifouling surfaces, even after prolonged

immersion, are toxic and therefore care must be exercised when preparing the surface. Personal

protection must be worn.

There are also environmental considerations. Toxic flakes from detaching antifouling should not be allowed to contaminate the environment nor should the water from high-pressure fresh water

washing (HPFWW) be allowed to run into harbours and become a pollution hazard. Antifouling

surfaces are different to enamel. To start with they are porous and will possess a leached or hydrolysed layer, which, if left on the surface and not removed whilst still wet will impair the

subsequent adhesion of the re-coat. It is therefore important that the vessel is thoroughly washed and cleaned immediately it is clear of the water and the leached layer not allowed to dry which

will subsequently make it difficult to remove. The leached layer, which is actually spent antifouling that has lost a high proportion of its biocidal activity, will be friable and slightly chalky in colour.

Upon thorough washing the colour of the antifouling will be enriched indicating removal of the

offending layer.

Remember – even old antifouling surfaces are toxic.

Personal protection should be worn during preparation.

Ensure surface is devoid of fouling organisms and the leached layer removed.

Allow the surface to thoroughly dry.

Spot prime any bare metal surfaces with the appropriate primer (see antifouling

specifications in this manual).

Re-antifoul with 2 full coats paying particular attention to the turbulent areas that should

be built up with an additional coat to prevent premature erosion.

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Surface Preparation

Repairs

The subject of repairs covers a wide variety of situations. Some of the more frequently occurring examples are covered below.

Coating Failure

When a coating has failed it should be removed back to good material by blasting or disk grinding.

Common coatings failures include: Blistering

Cracking

Peeling and general delamination

Cosmetic failure such as loss of gloss or colour

In all these instances it is important to determine the cause of the failure in order to take steps to

prevent recurrence. Contact your International Technical Representative to arrange an inspection. Once the failed coating has been removed, (in simple cases of loss of gloss, removal would not be

required) the surface should be primed prior to reapplication of base coats and the final finishing

coats. The preparation regime for each primer may vary and is covered in the respective datasheets, but will typically consist of degreasing followed by abrasion to mechanically key the surface.

All subsequent Primer, Fillers and Finishes should be applied within the specified over-coating intervals.

Physical Damage to the Coating

If the coating system has been damaged due to an external effect such as impact or abrasion, the

damaged material should be removed back to good material by chiselling, blasting or disk grinding. As with coatings failure above, once the failed coating has been removed, the surface should be

primed prior to reapplication of the final finishing coats. The preparation regime for each primer may vary and is covered in the respective datasheets, but will typically consist of degreasing followed by

abrasion to mechanically key the surface.

All subsequent Primer, Fillers and Finishes should be applied within the specified over-coating

intervals.

Structural Repairs

In the event of damage requiring repairs to the structure, such as welding, reshaping or replacement of sections of the vessel shell, all coatings should be removed in the affected area. Hot work and

‘panel beating’ can cause separation of the coating scheme from the substrate, which may go unnoticed, and so this should be done prior to the commencement of the structural repair work. Once

the repair is complete the area can be treated as for the appropriate base substrate and the surrounding coatings as per physical damage above.

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Application Primers

Although we tend to judge finishes by the accuracy of the profile after filling and degree of gloss shown in the finish, primers are the key to longevity of the paint system. Limited attention tends to be paid to this aspect of the paint scheme. The following is a synopsis of primary primer aspects.

Prior to Initial Priming Check the condition of the metal substrate meets the required standard regarding quality of blasting

or grinding. Ensure contamination does not exist and that the surface to be coated is not “gingered” or in the case of aluminium, showing traces of the white corrosion product often evident on exposed

alloy surfaces. Note batch numbers of products to be used and conditions at time of application. (Fill

in the Coating Diary as appropriate). Application of epoxy primers in cold or highly humid conditions is not recommended and care should be taken to monitor temperature, relative humidity, and most of all

ensure that climatic conditions in conjunction with substrate temperature do not mean that dew point is fast approaching. Condensing moisture has a detrimental effect on the curing and longevity of

primer systems.

Control of the initial primer application is important. Certain types of holding primers subsequently de-

laminate if applied too thickly. Holding or initial primers are intended to fully coat the blast profile. Failure to achieve this leads to pinhead corrosion before filler application. If the application is to be by

airless spray and the applicator is unfamiliar with either the primer or the spray equipment, we

recommend that spray trials be carried out. Check the tip size (ideally use reversible tips) and check the wet end to dry end stroke ratio in order to govern output ratio etc. thus ensuring the correct wet

film thickness (WFT) is applied. Similar checks would apply to other forms of pressurised spray units.

After Initial Priming It is difficult to get accurate readings of dry film thickness (DFT) off a blast profile so the following

approaches should be adopted:

Calculate the volume of paint for a given area and back-calculate against the actual usage, then giving

the WFT applied (allowing for overspray wastage). Place steel shims (small pieces of steel) around the vessel, in portholes etc from which thickness

readings can be taken. These are removed for measurement and the area beneath touched in by

brush.

Check for bare patches of substrate that may need to be touched up prior to filling stages.

This is particularly applicable down the side of welds, inside gangway boxes, window

frames etc. Spot prime if necessary.

Prior to Priming after Filling

Whilst long periods will be spent filling and profiling the vessel the true effect of filling is not noticed until the first coat of primer is applied. Many applicators prefer a thin coat of primer over the filler

simply to look at the profile and since Interprime 820 has a significant sheen a thin coat of this product will highlight any inaccuracies in the profile which can then be corrected. Modern epoxy based

fillers have good anti-corrosive properties but this should not detract from the need for thorough

priming since the thickness of filler varies considerably and indeed sand through to substrate on some areas of the boat is not uncommon. Note batch numbers to be used on the Coating Diary and note

conditions at time of application. Carry out the airless spray or pressure pot checks as noted above.

Priming after Filling

Note the quantity of paint used to allow for calculation of volume vs. area and WFT. Look for any patches of bare metal or holding primer grinning through where the filler has been sanded heavily and

make good the thickness. It is difficult to measure dry film thickness of primer when yachts are filled since the filler thickness often appears as centimetres thick against a target dry thickness of between,

say, 125 – 200 microns. Shims placed around the vessel are important guides, which can be removed

15

for measuring purposes. These readings should be compared to the initial WFT readings at the time of

application. Once dried or cured it is advised that you:-

Check for toughness of the coating and adhesion to the filler using the crosshatch test

(knife and tape).

Check for pinholes - further filling may be required if they are present.

Check for orange peel - if excessive, more sanding down is required which will cut down the

thickness of the primer, so check the thickness of the system after sanding.

Check the overall sheen of the coating - this indicates the smoothness of the application

and the accuracy of the profile.

Check for any traces of solvent odour. If present, increase the heat and ventilation. This

should remove the final traces of solvent. If not the coating may, in the worst instances of

over application, have to be ground off, the substrate dried and the application begun again.

If in doubt consult your International Technical Representative.

Painting Tanks and other Confined Spaces The previous section described the sort of activity appropriate to external surfaces, or, in the case of

straight priming, those activities appropriate to the vastness of interiors. Painting tanks and other

confined spaces requires different considerations, which the following section describes. International have available a wide range of products suitable for tank coatings and specialist-coating materials for

confined spaces. The Interline, Intergard, Intertuf and Intershield ranges are known and proven the world over.

Tanks Condition – New Building Prior to the commencement of blasting it is essential that the tanks be clean, dry, and in a condition

suitable for surface preparation and the application of the specified tank coatings. The following briefly outlines the minimum requirements.

All grease and oil must be removed from all surfaces

All hot work in way of tanks should be complete.

Heating coils (if to be fitted as many vessels yachts don’t have heated tanks) should be

installed.

After final tank testing, tanks should be fresh water washed and dried especially if they have

been in contact with seawater during the tank testing procedure.

Defective steelwork, prior to the contract commencement should be repaired prior to

painting. In addition, welding using a basic consumable can result in alkaline deposits

around the weld seam. These deposits could have a detrimental effect on the performance

of the applied coating. Therefore, although the weld seam will be grit blasted, prior to blasting it is recommended that the pH (alkalinity/acidity reading) around the weld seam be

checked. A simple check is to soak a pH paper with distilled water and pressing it on the surface, within 8 centimetres of the weld seam, for 30 seconds. If the pH is 9 or greater, it is

recommended that the area is fresh water washed prior to grit blasting.

Heating Coils (if fitted)

Most vessels do not have heating coils in the tanks. However, many conversions, which were originally commercial vessels, may have heating coils. Heating coils in position during blasting and coating

should be masked with suitable material. Masking, fitted to heating coils before blasting, should be

removed and the coils cleaned prior to coating in order to avoid contamination caused by grit falling on to freshly applied paint. Coils should be re-wrapped prior to painting. The material used for

masking should be absorbent to ensure that no contamination from flaking paint from masking falls onto the surfaces beneath.

Ventilation

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Stripe Coatings

Stripe coating is an essential part of good painting practice. Stripe coatings are to be applied where possible by low pressure fine tip airless spray or brush. Roller application is not to be used under any

circumstances. Stripe coatings ensure that all edges, welds and any other difficult to coat part receive sufficient paint in accordance with the film build requirements as detailed in a specification.

Ventilation (during application)

During the blasting operation, ventilation is necessary to allow adequate visibility. Flexible ventilation trunking should be used to allow the point of extraction to be reasonably close to the blasting

operator.

The ventilation system should be so placed that “dead spaces” do not exist. Ventilation must be maintained during application and continue whilst solvent is released from the paint film during

drying. Solvent fumes are heavier than air and will collect in the lowest levels of the tank so trunks must reach all lower areas.

The ventilation system must prevent the vapour concentration exceeding 10% of the lower explosive

limit (LEL) or less if required by local regulations. For solvent containing coatings it is recommended that during the drying period 10 air changes per hour be maintained. This should be maintained for at

least 48 hrs after the application of the paint system. However during application, to minimise possible dry spray, a lower level of ventilation may be maintained. Under certain circumstance this can be as

low as 2 air changes per hour. Air changes and paint application rate should be balanced to ensure

that the solvent vapour content is below the 10% Lower Explosion Limit. Equipment must be electrically safe during the operation and it is essential that it does not re-introduce dust, solvent

vapour etc into the tanks. For this reason, a positive pressure above normal atmospheric pressure should be maintained inside the tank or confined space.

Ventilation (after application)

Ventilation must continue after application of the paint. This is to ensure that solvent vapours do not

concentrate and become a hazard and secondly to ensure the paint can continue to cure. A solvent laden atmosphere will prevent the paint from curing and will lead to solvent entrapment.

Potable water tanks for example require thorough cure and solvent release to ensure that no water

taint occurs. When ventilating a tank for use with potable water it should be force ventilated for

typically 10 – 14 days at 23 deg C or until such time as the coating has reached full cure. Ventilation ducts will require moving around to ensure sufficient ventilation of all areas of the tank.

Upon reaching full cure the tank should before being put into use be filled and flushed 2 or 3 times

with fresh water.

Steel tanks will require to be pin hole checked and details of how this can be carried out can be

obtained from an International Technical Paint Representative.

Dehumidification Humidity can be a major problem. Dehumidification equipment, when required, must be of adequate

capacity to maintain the condition of the blasted steelwork to the required standard. Additionally, in

order to prevent condensation, the steel temperature should always be at least 3C above the dew

point. Coatings may be applied to surfaces that have been maintained in a dry condition with the steel

temperatures at least 3C above the dew point for more than 1 hour. The surface must be visibly dry

and clean at the time of application. This condition must be maintained until the coating is cured.

Coating tanks and confined spaces must only be under taken in acceptable atmospheric conditions

otherwise adverse effects may occur.

As a guide relative humidity (RH) levels of 40 – 60% give optimum results although for most materials, application may be carried out between 25 – 85% relative humidity.

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Heating and Lighting

If heating is necessary it should be by means of a heat exchange system e.g. air admitted to the tank should not pass directly through a combustion chamber. Temperatures should be maintained for the

duration of the contract from application to cure and provision should be made for 24-hour surveillance of equipment.

Lighting during the blasting and painting must be electrically safe and provide suitable illumination for all work. As a guide, lighting may be considered suitable if standard text can be read at a distance of

30 centimetres from the eye. Ideally the lighting should be powerful mains supplied spotlight with background lighting on at all times in the interests of safety.

Maintenance and Repair of Previously Painted Tanks Unlike commercial vessels, the tanks of pleasure craft do not carry complex chemical compositions

and are essentially storage for fuel and lubricants, potable water, grey water and sewage. Hence they generally run for long period without major maintenance or indeed any maintenance at all. However

at some stage in their life tanks will have to be maintained.

Prior to the commencement of re-blasting it is essential that the tanks are clean and dry and must be

suitable for further preparation and coating application. The following briefly out lines the minimum requirements:-

Tanks must be cleaned, and in the case of fuel tanks, gas free.

Any blisters present must be burst and the blister caps removed from the surface.

Heavy scale must be removed from all surfaces.

Scale, debris and other residues (oil, grease etc) must be removed from the tanks.

All hot work in the way of tanks should be complete.

All tanks should be fresh water washed.

Any areas of steel renewal should be suitably prepared.

International Coatings has a wide range of primers available, too many to mention in this publication.

Should you require further information regarding primer availability to meet your specific requirements consult you local International Technical Representative.

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Application Fillers

The ability to profile large yachts is a key element in the paint processing of any vessel. It is the most labour intensive feature and often the most difficult. Filling tends to be a wasteful process with as

much as 50% of the material being sanded off, thus presenting a dust hazard both to the operator

and to the final finish unless high standards of cleanliness are observed.

Prior to Filler Application Standards and control of fillers is of paramount importance. Controlled storage is equally as important

to “paste like” materials as it is to liquid paints. Cold fillers apply badly, are prone to pull on the fairing battens and are highly susceptible to micro-aeration, resulting in pinholes or worse, larger occlusions

in the film. Fillers should ideally be stored between 15 - 20C (60 - 70F)

The texture of the filler at ambient temperatures has significance to the profile attained. If excess pressure is needed on the fairing battens then undulations in the profile will occur as the batten

distorts. If the profile is to be accurate when the batten is drawn, the potential to maintain the batten

to a given curve whilst drawing off excess filler is a pre-requisite. In cases of filling straight panels, the same level of accuracy is required especially where raised filler meets portholes or surrounding

central depressions.

Record the following in the coatings diary:- Record batch numbers to be used.

Check actual weight of fillers to ensure it is within recommended limits.

Note conditions at time of application.

The mixing exercise, when using “paste like” fillers such as Interfill 830 and Interfill 833 is of

paramount importance, so check both before and after application for evenness of colour. Ensure air is not incorporated during the mixing process. The entrapment of air in fillers, whilst not necessarily

evident during the new building process, will ultimately become manifest as blisters or craters (depending on temperature) as air within the void expand and contracts. Since quality fillers are

manufactured under vacuum, and therefore essentially devoid of air at the point of manufacture, the

inclusion of aerated fillers within a paint scheme may well invalidate guarantees. Always check for air inclusion before application.

All fairing battens and blades should be checked prior to commencing the filling process to ensure

they are clean and have no damaged edges.

are smooth.

Filler Application (Interfill 830 and Interfill 833)

Application techniques vary widely between fairing contractors and a full discussion of the various approaches would not be possible in the limited space here. Below are some basic pointers for those

approaching this for the first time. For a more detailed discussion, contact your International

Technical Representative.

Spread mix out on a board to avoid excess heat build-up, and to keep the working life as long

as possible. Apply firmly in an even spreading action.

When fairing a hull, two or three 'cross coats' of Interfill 830, applied before any extensive

sanding work, will ensure the original shape is maintained.

When hardened, (minimum figure for hardness typically Shore D durometer = 50) sand to

profile with 40-180-grade wet or dry paper. Where large areas have been faired, sand with a long-board (minimum length 1 metre) to

achieve the curvature of the hull.

Scratch marks in the surface of Interfill 830 should be filled with Interfill 833 or

Microsurfacer for those preferring spray filler for the refining process.

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After Filler Application

Note actual quantity used in the filling process. Pinholes and occlusions in filler greatly increase the labour content and are a key factor in many of the

delays occurring on larger vessels. Outside of aspects relating to storage, air may be introduced into

the combined components by over-zealous mixing. (see earlier paragraph) That apart, voids of this nature must be filled, as they will cause defects in the paint system.

It is normal practice to rub down/sand the filled surface with coarse grades of paper e.g 40 – 80

grade wet or dry - this will cause certain voids to become enlarged whilst other smaller holes may become filled with rubbing debris. It is essential that this be cleaned away before a decision is made

as to the forthcoming procedures to be adopted.

If the profile is reached after rubbing down, the need for finishing filler becomes limited to filling small

pinholes and scratches often evident after rubbing down.

The degree of cure should be measured by using a Shore D hardness tester and the results recorded

in a table or diagram to give a representation of the hardness of filler over the vessel surface. Sometimes omitted from the contractor’s itinerary is the need to radius all angles. It is poor painting

practice to allow angles to exist where dirt, seawater and possibly cleaning fluids can collect. Corners should possess a radius.

The foregoing applies primarily to the application of Interfill 830 heavy-duty yet lightweight filler with good anti-slump and sanding properties. It is envisaged, however, that some refining of the

Interfill 830 will be required. In practice some pinholes and occlusions will occur and the occasional depression or scratch will be present. Attending to pinholes and occlusions with Interfill 833 will be

ineffective unless good lighting is available. Even with this facility and with a distinctive green colour making it easy to see against the classic grey of the Interfill 830, it may prove necessary to repeat

the process several times over. As a final check, it is a good idea to roll a thin coat of primer over the

surface to highlight any remaining problems in the knowledge that this coat may be rubbed away. With all fillers do not mix excessively large amounts as this generates heat (exotherm) that results in

a rapidly solidifying product. Check the data sheets for pot life figures.

Interfill 833 Easily Sandable Finishing Filler

Interfill 833 is smooth to apply, as it incorporates extra fine grade extenders, and cures to an easily sandable surface. Interfill 833 is ideal for the applicator that prefers using filler battens and blades

during the finish filler process. The green colour of the filler allows for easy visual assessment of the rectification of fine defects.

Note: Once the sandable time of fillers has been exceeded it should be sanded to promote good adhesion. Sanded filler may be left for a period up to 3 months before over-coating with further epoxy

filler or with Interprime 8 series. In certain environments, particularly during large temperature and humidity changes the surface of the filler may be seen to possess a greenish hue or in the case of

Interfill 833 the green colour looses it distinctiveness. Should this occur it is advisable to sand the filler

surface to remove this discoloration even if the 3 months period has not been exceeded.

Interfill 835 & Microsurfacer– Sprayable Fairing Compounds For the applicator preferring a sprayable fairing compound Microsurfacer is available. Light grey in

colour and easily sandable with good colour differentiation between the sprayable fairing compound

and fillers to aid the applicator. Application should be by conventional spray (pressure pot). Typical gun settings would be a 1.6 – 1.8mm fluid nozzle with 1.0 – 1.5 bar (15 – 25 psi) on the pressure pot

with an output pressure of 2.5 – 3.0 bar (40-45 psi). Recommended wet film thickness per application is 800 microns. (Note: excessive wet film thickness of Microsurfacer may lead to

retarded drying and a risk of solvent absorption into sub-coats. Keep to recommended application thickness). Both products ultimately dry to a smooth finish suitable for sanding with medium grade

wet or dry paper. Up to 4-5% of Epoxy Thinner YTA061 may be added but it is advised that you do

20

not exceed this figure. If any further adjustments to application characteristics are required it is

advised that the output pressure be slightly reduced. This allows for the application of a “wetter” coating without the risks of increasing over-spray.

Two coats may be applied in certain circumstances when surface irregularities have not been

overcome. However it is stressed that the over-coating times are rigidly observed. Neither products

should be used as ”spot and build” filler. Such use will result in cracking. Additionally it should not be used over inadequately sanded and prepared fillers as this will inevitably lead to sanding marks

showing in the subsequent finish coat particularly in dark colours.

21

Application Antifoulings

Changes in the Law Regarding Organo-tin base Antifouling As of 31st December 2002 all organo-tin based antifouling compositions become illegal and International duly ceased production of Superyacht 800 Antifouling and Superyacht 900 Antifouling. The agreement to replace organo-tin is global and International Coatings fully supports the work of the IMO and MEPC in securing this treaty. These materials have been replaced by a new generation of high performance antifouling based on a totally different technology whilst retaining the self-polishing (SPC) concept previously well established in tin based compositions. This has ensured that the replacement products give equal, if not better, performance than their tin based forebears.

Antifouling Compatibility The compatibility of antifouling is vitally important, so if an antifouling system currently exists on the

vessel, check the compatibility of the new antifouling to be applied. It may be necessary to remove

the current coating or to apply a barrier coat. With most International Antifouling there is a high probability it will be directly compatible with the existing coating and no barrier coat will be required.

You are advised to consult your local Technical Representative with regards the compatibility aspects.

Prior to Application

The first decision to be made is which of the antifoulings to use to meet the requirements of the cruising schedule and material from which the vessel is built. Factors to consider are:-

Service period of 6/12/18/24 months

Fouling intensity in cruising area

Aluminium/alloy substrate

Colour requirement

Having made this study the compatibility of antifouling is vitally important whether you are applying

over a primer, a tie coat or an existing antifouling system. A simple check is to apply a patch of antifouling over that which already exists be it antifouling, primer or tie coat and if problems such as

cracking are likely to occur they will do so shortly after the antifouling test patch has dried out. If this

does not occur it would usually indicate that the adhesion would be satisfactory but further examination is desirable. However this is not a 100% foolproof procedure so if you have any doubts

about the compatibility of antifouling compositions consult your local Technical Representative. It may be necessary to remove the current antifouling or to apply a barrier coat.

If the antifouling is to be spray applied and the applicator is unfamiliar with either the antifouling or

spray equipment we recommend spray trials be carried out prior to actual application. (see paragraph

entitled “Antifouling structure and appearance”). Consult the Product data sheets and the Material Safety Data Sheets for not only do you require the correct application advice but the protection of the

operator is vitally important.

Note the batch numbers of the antifouling and any associated primers/tie coats to be used and

conditions at the time of application and keep this record in the Coatings Diary.

Antifouling Structure and Appearance If the antifouling is to be spray applied and the applicator is unfamiliar with either the antifouling or

the spray equipment, we recommend that spray trials be carried out prior to actual application. This is

important when spraying and it may prove necessary to commence setting airless spray units with the air driven impellor running (if the equipment has this facility) or by priming the wet end pump by

commencing with increased pressure e.g. 2,500 psi prior to reducing for application. Larger ratio pumps may not require pre-priming in this way.

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Application of Antifouling New building: This will be dependent upon yard procedures that could change from yard to yard

with some applying by airless spray whilst other prefer to roller apply antifouling. Consult your International Technical Representative who by liaison with the Yard Management, will decide what

method of application is to be adopted. Additionally at the new building stage a decision has to be

made as to whether a full antifouling system is applied or whether the vessel will be fitted out afloat. In this latter case the antifouling choice may vary and a single coat of suitable “fitting out” antifouling

be applied with a view to applying a full antifouling system at a later date either at the new building yard or some other dry dock after sea trials. Care should be taken to ensure a suitable primer or tie

coat exists on the vessel. In new building situations it is normal practise to apply antifouling over a suitable tie coat.

Major Refurbishment: Major refurbishment of vessels already in service presents a different problem and in most cases the antifouling application will be over an existing antifouling system. In

major refurbishment situations, a proportion of the original scheme may well be removed either during the high-pressure fresh water wash (HPFWW) procedure, or after further inspection, and a

considerable amount of touch primer work may be taking place. Ensure primers are compatible and

take precaution not to overlap some primers. Particularly epoxy based, with the existing antifouling system as this may result in splitting at a later stage whilst in service. If all the repair work and the

existing antifouling are to be sealed off, ensure the primer/tie coat is compatible. Primocon (YPA984) is often used for this purpose. The primer surface should be dry and free of all

contaminants (oil, grease, salt etc) and over-coated within the over-coating interval specified for the

primer.

Repair and Upgrading Approved Systems: Quite often because a yacht is changing its cruising schedule it is desirable to upgrade the antifouling as part of the M&R programme. This may be

somewhat restricted however if considering upgrading systems on aluminium vessels. Obviously you should degrease the surface and high-pressure fresh water wash (HPFWW 3000psi. 210 bar). Some

touch priming may be prudent in these situations; repair corroded areas with the recommended

protective primer system. Choice of antifouling is important and you are advised to consult your local Technical Representative in order to decide on an appropriate choice of product since not only the

performance but compatibility is a key consideration.

General Maintenance of Antifouling systems: in most cases a vessel will dock for a re-coat and

upgrading is not a consideration. Most International antifouling are readily re-coatable. However we do advise that the surface be high pressure fresh water washed (HPFWW) and allowed to dry prior to

recoating. It is worth checking the integrity of the paint system particularly for systems where antifouling build up may be high. Once coated observe the undocking times.

After Application Note the quantity of paint actually used. Check the thickness of the coating to ensure required

protection service period would be reached. It is advisable with self-polishing systems to apply additional antifouling to the high wear (polishing) areas such as the chine’s, waterline, rudder etc to

reduce the depletion of the thickness of the paint system. Check that the dry film thickness (DFT) of the antifouling in these areas is greater than that on the body of the hull.

Make sure that the maximum immersion time for the product is not exceeded prior to re-launch. If that time period is exceeded, wet sand thoroughly to remove the surface layer of paint.

23

Application Perfection

Overview Perfection

Perfection is a linear high performance polyester based two pack polyurethane that can be brushed

or sprayed.

Perfection is available in a fixed range of colours in small packs mainly for DIY use but also a larger

pack size for Professional application only. This professional product comes in a 4 litre pack of Snow White together with its curing agent in a 2 litre size plus a 4 litre Light tint Base for special pastel

shades. The professional packs have different sales codes as compared to the same product in the DIY range

to allow products to be more easily traced in the system.

Perfection Plus is a two pack clear varnish/glaze coat formulated to be applied over or blended with

Perfection colours to impart a higher depth of gloss and increase the longevity of the system with respect to retention of colour and gloss especially with the darker colours.

The components of the Perfection system are as follows:

Product Code Colour

YNC007 Perfection Curing Agent (2 litre)

YNC002 Perfection Light Tint Base (4 litre)

YNC004 Perfection Snow White (4 litre)

73015 Procure X-138 Accelerator

YGB001 Perfection Curing Agent

YHA183 Perfection Platinum

YHA184 Perfection Mediterranean White

YHA192 Perfection Off White

YHA198 Perfection Matterhorn White

YHA216 Perfection Royal Blue

YHB000 Perfection Snow White

YHB663 Perfection Jade Mist Green

YHF991 Perfection Mauritius Blue

YHK990 Perfection Flag Blue

YHS299 Perfection Rochelle Red

YHS070 Perfection Cream

YHY999 Perfection Jet Black

YHS056 Perfection Fighting LadyYellow

YVA950 Perfection Plus Base

YVA951 Perfection Plus Curing Agent

The mixing ratio of all Perfection and Perfection Plus products with their respective curing agents

is 2:1 by volume.

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Perfection Colours and Perfection Plus Glaze Coat – Details and Use

All colours in the Perfection range can be handled in a similar fashion as they have similar

application and curing characteristics. Certain colours, notably bright reds, yellow, green and dark blues, will require careful application to achieve a uniform colour. These products have been

formulated on lead free pigments for health and safety reasons, and offer a slightly lower degree of opacity resulting in extra coats being required.

Once the first coat of Perfection (this would normally comprise a half wet coat followed by two full

coats) has fully cured a further coat of Perfection colour may then be applied.

Apply one full coat of Perfection Plus if used as a glaze coat over Perfection Finish. Except if used

over the white, off white or cream colours and then it should be blended 50:50 by volume with the Perfection Colour for the final coat.

Note that Perfection and Perfection Plus must each be mixed with their respective curing agents before use.

Accelerator (Procure X-138) details and use

Procure X-138 Accelerator can be used in Perfection and is a highly reactive material that can substantially reduce the curing times of the product under all conditions. The accelerator must be

used with care and excessive additions avoided.

In Perfection accelerator use should be restricted to when the weather is cool (typically below 15

deg C).

Drying times

The curing/drying times of Perfection is affected by the amount of paint applied, the temperature

and available ventilation. The intervals at which coats are applied when applying wet on wet, has a

significant effect on solvent release and drying.

Perfection passes through various phases during its curing cycle as follows: Flow time - the time during which the paint remains very wet and mobile and will flow readily.

This time can be extended by the use of a slower evaporating thinner blend. Tacky stage - the stage at which a high proportion of the solvents have left the paint film and

when touched with a finger, paint is removed.

Tack off stage - the stage at which a fingerprint can be left on the surface but no paint is removed. This is the usual stage at which during application by spray the next coat is applied. At

this stage the paint film is becoming cross- linked but will blend and flow into the new coat. Touch dry - the stage at which no fingerprint are left on the surface, the paint has gelled right

through but is not yet very hard. At this stage cross-linking has increased substantially. Re-

coating at this stage will not result in maximum flow and gloss of the paint film. Firm stage - the stage at which moderate pressure does not affect the film.

After the above stage the paint film progressively becomes harder over a period of time dependant on curing temperatures, amount of paint applied, and levels of accelerator used.

Where and when to use

Perfection has been formulated to give the ultimate finish under a wide range of conditions. To allow

the product to perform in hot tropical conditions, its natural curing rate has been adjusted for these conditions. Consequently, under cool conditions the use of the accelerator may be necessary unless

longer drying cycles are not a problem. Remember the ultimate finish is obtained by the slowest cure of the product that you can accept.

Such conditions where the accelerator may be required are those, for example, where the paint film will be exposed to dust and dirt before the paint has reached its touch dry time. When the

temperatures/conditions are such that the paint film will be exposed to humid conditions before the

25

paint has reached a satisfactory degree of cure, the use of Procure X-138 Accelerator can prove

invaluable in preventing down glossing.

This is especially important for horizontal surfaces such as decks, cockpit areas, and heavily raked surfaces such as transoms and cabin sides painted outside.

Remember that when applying the paint the surface temperature will drop in late afternoon. Care should be exercised that the dew point is not reached. Such conditions lead to deposition of moisture

on the surface followed by a loss of gloss as the paint cures.

How to add accelerator and paint mixing

Choose the level of Procure X-138 Accelerator you require given the environment in which the

Perfection is being applied.

Mix Part A & Part B (curing agent) of the paint together and stir thoroughly. The paint should then be

thinned as required (see section entitled “ Spraying - Viscosity and Thinner use”) to the viscosity recommended. Stand for 5 minutes to allow gases and entrapped air to escape. The selected level of

Procure X-138 Accelerator should be added and thoroughly stirred in. The paint is now ready for

use.

Pot life

The addition of Procure X-138 Accelerator decreases the pot life (working life) of Perfection. People’s concept of pot life varies, some even confusing the time to gelation as being the pot life. In

practice, for materials such as Perfection , the pot life of the product is roughly the point at which

viscosity increases to one and a half times the original. I.e. initially at 16 - 20 seconds Zahn #2 and rising to 24 – 30 secs The product whilst remaining liquid would give a material, which, whilst

sprayable, would normally fail to produce acceptable flow.

Procure X-138 use in Perfection

Below 10°C 10 -15°C 15 -20°C 20 -25° 25-30°C 30°C and

above

Maximum addition per 1L mixed product

Do not use Perfection

below 10°C

2.5 mls 2.5 mls 2.5 mls 2.5 mls No addition required

Note:

Less accelerator may be used but more is not recommended.

The above levels will typically reduce dry times and pot lives by at least half and thus

recoat time should be reduced by around the same factor.

Important advice – Effect of moisture

One of the most important factors which influences the final finish obtained with two-component

polyurethane finishes is the presence of moisture. Moisture will "kill" the gloss of a urethane finish if

allowed to come in contact with the surface of the paint before it has cured. This is very important to remember when painting outside and this should be taken into account when commencing painting.

Remember that as evening draws on, condensation may be formed. If the paint is not going to be cured before this moisture hits the surface, then either arrange a cover to protect the surfaces,

accelerate the paint, or leave until the weather is safer. If the surface is affected then it will have to be sanded down and re-coated again.

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A good rule for two pack polyurethanes is to avoid painting if humidity is above 70% and do not apply when humidity is 85% or higher.

No definitive time period for the sensitivity of the paint to moisture can be given due to the large

number of variables involved. It is wise however, to allow at least twice the quoted firm dry times of

the product before allowing surfaces to be moistened.

It is also important to avoid moisture contamination of the paint when applying and it is therefore important to ensure you have good working moisture traps on all airlines, placed so that air entering

the spray gun is dry. Moist air may lead to surface defects such as cissing and diminished gloss in the cured film.

Film build

Avoid the temptation to apply excessive film thickness in any one session as heavy films may lead to

solvent entrapment resulting in soft films and the possibility of solvent blistering at any time in the future.

Do not re-apply further paint until the previously applied product feels hard.

The main area where this has been a problem is on horizontal surfaces like decks where the paint can be applied very heavily without worries of runs and sags. When first applied the finish looks good but

as the paint cures the film remains softer than it should. This can result in loss of gloss, loss of adhesion and a high degree of sensitivity to moisture leading to blistering especially behind squabs etc

around cockpit seating areas.

Prior to finish application

The Project/Quality Manager should insist on trial applications of both undercoat and finish coatings.

The trials should be organised well in advance (at the priming stages) in readiness for the final

application.

This is important to ensure that the application team is familiar with the gun settings that will achieve

the best result. International Technical Representatives can be called upon to attend these trials and provide advice if required.

Before any application takes place ensure the surface is thoroughly clean and all rubbing debris

removed. There are as many methods for cleaning the surface as there are days in the week.

The use of tack rags can help achieve the required level of cleanliness. What must be stressed

however is the level of cleanliness required to achieve quality finishes and the thoroughness required

in the preparation process. Tack rags vary considerably from one manufacturer to another and only those containing minimum levels of tackiness and which have been specifically manufactured for use

with 2 part polyurethanes should be used. International can offer Tack Rags (Part No 073009)

that are suited for use with two pack paints. Care should be exercised as some tack rags can leave behind a deposit leading to cissing and cratering.

Solvent wipe down may be used but again care must be exercised that the solvent used does not

affect the underlying surface leading to striations showing through the newly applied paint. International Antifouling Thinners #3 has been found to work very well on cured and sanded

primers and undercoats.

During the cleaning process, wash down solvent or water must not be allowed to dry on the surface. Residues must be removed using dry paper wipes. Even the most minute deposit of sanding residue

remaining on the surface can impair the finish by leaving the most unsightly striations evident in the

surface of the dried Perfection. This is most noticeable in dark colours.

If water wash down is employed the surface must be allowed to dry thoroughly otherwise humidity

blisters may form under the cured finish. Care must be taken that no water is trapped behind masking

paper etc that can then at a later stage run down the newly applied wet paint

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Perfection Application (Solvent use, viscosity & spraying)

Spray gun model, its set up with air cap and fluid nozzle, and viscosity goes hand in hand. Ignore one

facet and optimum results will not be achieved. Individual applicators have their own application technique usually based upon experience from spraying large areas on the one hand and intricate

shaped objects on the other. Whatever the shape and size all go to make up a superyacht application

challenge and if the resultant application is to the desired standard no one method will become an industry standard. Spray techniques noticeably vary, with the American technique one of a more

deliberate and somewhat closer approach than the European technique of more free movement further away from the object surface. Australian/New Zealand applications tend to be a mix of both

methods. To be properly adjusted paint has to accommodate all methods hence International has a range of thinners to accommodate both temperature and application technique variables.

Thinners for Spray Application of Perfection

Thinner Sales Code Description

Polyurethane Spraying Thinner #10

YTA064 Standard Thinner

Polyurethane Retarder Thinner #9

YTA006 Retarder Thinner

The following table gives suggested methods of application. These are suggestions based on trial applications during product development. As with all applications on site it is advisable to undertake

trial applications in the conditions that prevail before spray application to the vessel.

10 - 18°C 16 - 22°C 20 - 28°C 28°C+

Thinners type YTA064 YTA064

YTA064 YTA064/YTA006

Suggested viscosity

14 - 18 seconds ZAHN 4 viscosity cup approximately 45% - 65% thinning depending on ambient temperature.

Type of first coat to apply

Medium wet or half coat with even coverage

Time to overcoat

No paint removal with light finger touch

Second & Third coats

Full coat

Time to overcoat

No paint removal with light finger touch

It is always better practice to use a Zahn 4 viscosity cup measurement to determine viscosity; this

ensures the best flow out.

The key to total performance is controlled solvent release. Whatever blend is used it must evaporate out of the paint film at a suitable rate to allow the product to flow (level out). Good ventilation and a

dry environment are essential for maximum solvent release. Poor ventilation and damp atmospheres

28

may generate dull hazy finishes. Additionally if the material does not flow to an orange peel free finish

this is an indication that one of the parameters for curing is incorrect. Measuring the viscosity is a prime starting point. While the chart gives suggested percentage solvent additions the true check is

the viscosity at a given temperature. A typical spray viscosity for Perfection is 14 - 18 seconds Zahn 4.

Viscosity Conversions for Perfection

Sometimes a Zahn cup is not available to measure the viscosity of a paint but other similar flow cups are. As other types of flow cups are slightly different in size the times measured will be different and

hence a conversion chart is required to convert those times back to Zahn times.

Ford No 4 BS B4 DIN 4 Zahn #2

14 14

15 16

14 15 17

14 16 16 19

15 24 16 20

19 25 18 22

22 30 20 27

27 34 23 34

30 40 26 41

36 47 30 49

Spraying Equipment

When spraying Perfection it is important to use good quality equipment with a good source of clean, dry air available in sufficient volumes for the job in hand.

There are numerous gun set-ups that will provide an excellent finish. The important aspect of spraying these types of products is to obtain complete atomisation of the

paint. Setting the paint and gun up ready to paint and flicking the gun across a small area quickly,

with the trigger pulled, can check this. Examination of the sprayed pattern should reveal a very fine deposition of paint composed of very, very fine droplets. If the droplets are not fine and tend to be

larger, then complete atomisation has not occurred and the gun set-up should be altered.

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Suggested spray gun set up for Perfection applications

Binks Bullows BBR

Air cap AS 17

Fluid tip AO 61

Air pressure 60 – 65 PSI / 4.1 - 4.4 bar

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

Devilbiss JGA 700

Air cap No 30

Fluid tip AV 15FF

Air pressure 60 – 65 PSI / 4.1 - 4.4 bar

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

Devilbiss JGA Series (Gravity Feed) (Suction Feed)

Air cap 704 (765 at 18°C) 43

Fluid tip 1.4mm 1.4mm

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

Air pressure 60 PSI / 4.1 bar 60 PSI / 4.1 bar

Devilbiss KB3 (Pressure Pot System)

Air cap 767, 777 or 797

Fluid tip 1.1mm

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

Air pressure 60 PSI / 4.1 bar

Pot pressure 7 - 10 PSI / 0.5 bar

DeVilbiss Gti (Suction feed) (Pressure Pot System)

Air cap 110 110 or 122

Fluid tip 1.3mm 1.0 or 1.1mm

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

Air pressure 30 PSI / 2.0 bar 30 PSI / 2.0 bar

Pot pressure Not applicable 7 -10 PSI / 0.5 bar - 0.6 bar

DeVilbiss GFV (Gravity feed)

Air cap No 30 or 43

Fluid tip 1.1 - 1.4 mm

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

Air pressure 45 – 55 PSI / 3.0 - 3.7 bar

Sata Jet NR95 (Gravity Feed) No.90 (Gravity Feed)

Air cap 50518 50153

Fluid tip 1.3mm 1.5mm

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

Air pressure 45 PSI / 3.0 bar 67 PSI / 4.5 bar

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Conventional Spray 2QT Pressure Pot Siphon Cup Gravity Feed

Tip size 0.040 - 0.048” 0.070” 0.040 - 0.070”

Pot Pressure ** 6 - 10 psi NA NA

Output Pressure 50 - 60 psi 40 - 50 psi 45 - 55 psi

HVLP 2QT Pressure Pot Siphon Cup Gravity Feed

Tip size 0.030 - 0.046” NA 0.040 - 0.070”

Pot Pressure ** 4 - 6 psi NA NA

Output Pressure 40 - 50 psi NA 45 - 55 psi

Binks Bullows

Gun: 2001

Pressure pot: Tip: 63A* or 63B Needle: 563A Air Cap: 63PB* or 63PW

Siphon cup: Tip: 66 Needle: 565 Air Cap: 66SD

Gun: 95

Pressure pot: Tip: 63A* or 63B Needle: 663A Air Cap: 63PB* or 63PW

Siphon cup: Tip: 66 Needle: 665 Air Cap: 66SD

Gun: 95G

Gravity feed: Tip: 65 or 66 Needle: 865 Air Cap: 66SD

Gun: Mach 1 HVLP

Pressure pot: Tip: 91 or 92 Needle: 54-4382 Air Cap: 95P

DeVilbiss JGA510

Pressure pot: Tip: AV-650-FX Needle: JGA-402-FX Air Cap: AV-1239-704

Siphon cup: Tip: AV-650-EX Needle: JGA-402-EX Air Cap: MB-4039-30

DeVilbiss JGA 700

Air Cap No.30 Fluid Tip AV15FF Air Pressure 4.0 – 4.4 bar (60 – 65 psi) Viscosity

15 seconds DIN 4

De Vilbiss JGA series

Gravity Feed Suction Feed

Air Cap 704 or 765 at 18°C No.43

Fluid Tip 1.4 mm 1.4 mm

Air Pressure 4.0 bar (60 psi) 4.0 bar (60 psi)

Viscosity

15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

DeVilbiss KB3 Pressure pot system

Air Cap 767, 777 or 797

Fluid Tip 1.1 mm

Air Pressure 4.0 bar ( 60 psi) Pot pressure 0.5 – 0.7 bar (7 – 10 psi) Viscosity

15 seconds DIN 4

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DeVilbiss Gti Suction feed Pressure pot system

Air Cap 110 110 or 112

Fluid Tip 1.3 mm 1.0 or 1.1 mm

Air Pressure 2.0 bar (30 psi) 2.0 bar (30 psi)

Pot pressure Not applicable 0.5 – 0.7 bar (7 – 10 psi)

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

De Vilbiss GFV Gravity feed

Air cap No.30 or No.43 Fluid tip 1.1 –1.4 mm

Air pressure 3.0 – 3.7 bar (45 – 55 psi)

Viscosity

15 seconds DIN 4

Sata Jet NR 95 Gravity feed NR 90 Gravity Feed

Air cap

50518 50153

Fluid tip 1.3 mm 1.5 mm

Air Pressure 3.0 bar (45 psi) 4.5 bar (67 psi)

Viscosity

15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

Pots and Cups: The pressure pot and siphon cups are not critical so long as they are of good quality and in good condition. The “new” Binks Bullows model 80-350 2qt pot, which is a small version of the 2 gallon pot, is extremely easy to clean and subsequently very reliable. The DeVilbiss KB525 pot is excellent if fitted with the new “check valve paint eliminator cap” on the underside of the lid. The Sharpe “No Drip” siphon cup is inexpensive and serves admirably for small marine applications. Although there are other guns and tip/needle/air cap combinations for the application of these materials, the above recommendations have been proven to give the best and most consistent results under a wide range of conditions. Note: The Binks Bullows models 62 and 18 would use the same tips and air caps as the 2001, but

the needle will vary based on the model (consult your Binks Bullows supplier for a recommendation). The DeVilbiss JGA 502 would use the same tips, needles, and air caps as the 510.

Application of Perfection by Brush/Rolle Application of Perfection by Brush/Roller

Perfection by Brush/Roller Whether painting with polyurethane and epoxy for the first time, or having the experience from the

professional ranks as applicators, there are still some golden rules that need following. Not least of all considering our personal protection, then considering how much surface preparation is required

before finally moving on to applying primer, possibly some filler, undercoat and Perfection finish.

As Perfection has such excellent brush application properties this article describes the application of a full system by brush and roller

When fibreglass boats require painting it is usually because they have been in service for a while and

there will be the inevitable scratches and gouges in a gelcoat looking rather sad, lacking in gloss and

somewhat faded. The same could be said of aged paint systems on other substrates such as steel or aluminium where mechanical damage as well as UV degradation leaves them requiring maintenance.

Having removed fittings, lettering etc always remember to degrease the surface with a suitable degreaser and a Scotchbrite pad thus removing traces of wax, oil and dirt before starting. It will also

be contaminated with traces of adhesive left behind from self-adhesive lettering. Sand the surface

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with 220-grade paper using an orbital sander or even by hand in areas that could not be reached with

the sander. Remove the sanding debris and wipe clean with a suitable Wipe Down Solvent such as International Antifouling Thinners #3 (YTA085).

Fill any scratches or gouges that have been well sanded with Interfill 830 Filler (YAA867)and/or

Interfill 833 (YAA813) epoxy filler having first ensured sanding debris has been removed from

within the scratches or other damaged areas. If debris has not been removed adhesion of the filler will be impaired. Whilst filling check the surface very carefully for pinholes which are quite common in

the gelcoat surface of aged fibreglass hulls, these too should be filled or they will show as defects once the finishing coats of Perfection are applied. A slight overfill is recommended. Once the filler is

cured it should be sanded smooth with 120-grade paper. Remove the sanding debris and the boat is ready to prime.

Application of Interprotect

Commence painting from a point where the overlap will not show for example down the stem or at the corner of the transom. Some professionals tend to treat the transom as a separate entity

particularly if it is a square and not rounded junction to the hull. Apply an even coat of Interprotect (YPA401) with a roller and lightly tip off the surface with a brush to remove the stippled texture that

results from roller application. Do not apply too thickly to avoid sags or runs and remember that the primer coat is really one to seal a surface that has become slightly porous with aging as well as

providing a foundation for application of finish. Allow to cure checking the Product Datasheet for the

recommended overcoating time at the temperature at which you are working and at which the product will cure. Intermediate sanding between coats can be carried out with typically 120 – 220

grade paper. If you can, recoat within the stated recoat period to avoid having to sand between each coat. Sanding can then be employed between coats mainly to remove any large dust or debris.

Once cured the primer should be sanded with 220 - 320 grade paper to produce a smooth surface. Remove the sanding debris and give the surface a final wipe down with a suitable Wipe Down

Solvent such as International Antifouling Thinners #3 (YTA085). Then 1 -2 coats of Perfection Undercoat (YRA003) should be applied. Perfection Undercoat (YRA003) should be

mixed 3:1 by volume and allowed to stand for 20 minutes to allow bubbles to disperse. Application

should be very much as for the finish coat as detailed on the following pages. The undercoat will as it cures shrink back and many application marks will reduce in size. Once cured, sand the Perfection

Undercoat (YRA003) with 320 – 400 grade paper. Remove sanding debris. This should leave a surface suitable for the application of the Perfection finish.

Use of a sanding guide product such as the ready to use product International Sanding Guide

Coat (YMA180) enables easy visual sanding of primers and undercoats and ensures that no sanding

marks are left in the final undercoat to print through into the final finish.

Application of Perfection by Brush/Roller

Having prepared the undercoat surface it is ready for application of the finishing coats of Perfection. Pick a good time of the day to start. Don’t paint in direct sunlight as this give a heated substrate that

in turn will reduce the wet edge time of the product. Also avoid painting in the evening, as condensation on the surface of the finish will cause it to down gloss. The ideal time is in the morning

after the dew has left the surface. If painting outside it is a good idea to construct a tent over the

boat using a suitable tarpaulin. Arrange it to ensure that the sun is kept off the surface before, during and for the first hour or so after painting to ensure maximum flow of the product.

Do not paint if there is a wind or breeze blowing across the surface as the wet edge will be reduced

and addition of retarder solvent may not suffice to keep a suitably long wet edge. On decks and other

horizontal surfaces where there may be many details to cut in around, work ahead slightly by cutting in the various objects using retarder solvent added so that by the time you reach those areas with the

infill painting they will still flow into the main application. Do not try and paint large areas by yourself. If using brushes for the main application change them frequently and have the unused brush rinsed in

retarder solvent to free the bristles up.

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Mix the components in the ratio 2:1 (2 volumes of base and 1 volume of curing agent) and stir

thoroughly. It is then critical to leave the paint standing for at least 20 minutes before starting to use it. This allows the chemical reaction to start, allows gas and bubbles to disperse and helps

produce a paint with less tendency to sag and run.

Apply the product by roller generously and then tip off lightly with a brush ALWAYS in a vertical

direction.

Even if painting a small horizontal stripe apply the paint horizontally and then go back and tip off vertically. It might seem wrong but the brush marks will flow out sideways and you will end up with a

sag free finish. Brushed horizontally the paint can form into ridges with the high ones creeping down slowly forming runs.

Always have some International Retarder Thinners No. 9 (YTA006) to hand in case the product needs thinning slightly but only add it if the temperature is high and the brush/roller feels as if it is

dragging on the surface. Certainly there should not be a need to add more than 10% by volume and it is advised to add small percentages at a time to make the necessary adjustments.

Roll an even coat over a convenient area, not too large, so that the wet edge time is retained, and tip off gently with a quality brush in a vertical direction. When applying dark colours by roller well wet

the roller and apply with an up and down stroke. If the coverage seems very poor wet the roller again and repeat over the same area and do not press too hard. You will find that this virtual double coating

deposits more paint which will cover better.

If applying by brush try and flow the paint on and again do not try and stretch coverage out.

Perfection requires a good film build of paint to enable it to flow and stretch during the curing cycle which then results in a very high gloss film. Do not try and roll the paint out as far as you can

otherwise the paint film will be too thin and will not flow.

For tipping off purposes it is recommended that a fine burred ended or chiselled bristle brush made of

China bristle or badger hair be used. Choose a size that is comfortable to handle and allow the brush to glide over the surface holding it at an angle of about 45º. It is preferable when doing this to have

two operators, one attending to rolling and the other tipping off. Once tipped off you may find some bubbles that require even lighter tipping off using almost no pressure on the surface at all. Work

quickly and once the finish looks okay leave well alone. After a short period the coating will level out

to a classic full gloss finish.

Some operators, particularly those in the professional sector prefer to brush throughout and not use a roller at all. Or it could be that small complex areas are such that even when using brush/roller

techniques the roller cannot access the area to be painted. Brush apply in broad diagonal strokes, cross spread in horizontal strokes before tipping of in a vertical direction. The multiple direction

approach produces an even distribution of paint and at the same time removes bubbles and brush

marks to give a smooth gloss finish.

For most colours two coats of finish will suffice but occasionally with certain shades it may prove necessary to apply a third coat. Consult the product datasheet for over-coating times. Second and

third coats should be applied exactly the same as the first. With the darker colours blending the finish

coat and the undercoat 50/50 as a final undercoat will go some way to giving an easier colour to overcoat compared to white.

It is recommended that equipment be cleaned in International Retarder Thinners No. 9

(YTA006). Some items such as tray liners and foam rollers are disposable items that will not be cleaned. Ensure these are disposed of according to local waste disposal laws and practises.

International can supply 180mm special foam rollers and 100mm wide brushes suitable for application of Perfection.

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Detailing and chemicals

The chemistry of Perfection provides a resin rich layer at the surface of the paint during the cure cycle and it is this layer that adds to the exterior exposure performance of the product.

Depending on how much of this clear layer is removed during detailing, exterior exposure performance in relation to gloss retention may be affected to various degrees.

It is realised that at times the finish will be spoilt by dust and dirt and that some detailing of the paint will be required and so any detailing work should be carried out with the above factors in mind.

With the Perfection chemistry there is virtually no after flow when cutting and polishing procedures

are used and so such procedures as used commonly with Acrylic Polyurethanes are not recommended.

Note that acid or alkaline based materials allowed to remain in contact with Perfection may lead to

blooming and discolouration of the surface especially with darker colours where such effects are more obvious.

Some sunscreen products especially those based on “Nano’ technology can have a serious degrading effect on polyurethane paints and anyone using such materials should studiously avoid touching any

paint work.

Perfection tinted Product

Perfection tinted colours are produced by using volumetric tinting dispensing machines.

As with the supply of any colour product made to order, like wallpaper or clothing fabric the customer

must ensure they purchase sufficient material of the same batch on the same day for the complete job, to avoid possible colour variations.

Paint should then, regardless of how purchased be boxed prior to use.

One standard procedure is to mix the first can with its hardener and commence using half of that unit.

Half the next unit should then be intermixed with the first half left. That way any possible shade variation is virtually eliminated. Another way is to box all the paint into a 20-litre pail, mix well and

put back into the original cans.

It should also be noted that different applicators applying the same paint out of the same container

might achieve slight colour variations due to subtle differences in their application techniques w.r.t. film builds and applied “wetness”.

Tinted paint is not permanently stable and any remains left over will drift slightly in colour, certainly

within 6 months and possibly even less with some colours, and will therefore not necessarily match

the original paint if used as touch up sometime in the future.

Remember also that if re-painting or touching up an aged finish, product produced to the same original formula will not match the job due to the inevitable variations that occur between tinters and

bases plus the subtle minute changes that can occur to the exposed colour over time.

If the original colour has been detailed at any time this may also induce subtle colour changes.

35

General information for primers associated with Perfection

Interprime 820 High Performance Epoxy Primer

Interprime 820 is a high performance epoxy primer for use above and below the waterline. It offers excellent anticorrosive protection and is, therefore, strongly recommended for use on steel and

aluminium substrates that require protection that lasts. Superb adhesion to metal makes it ideal for use as a holding primer prior to application of the full paint scheme. Can be over-coated with itself

after 8hrs (at 23ºC/70ºF) and with Interfill Epoxy Fillers after 24hrs (at 23ºC/70ºF).

With an extended maximum over-coating time, Interprime 820 is the ultimate choice for larger projects where the metal needs to be protected whilst fitting is being carried out. Where a topcoat

system is required, Interprime 820 should be sanded prior to application of the undercoat in order to achieve the optimal finish.

Interprime 820 should only be thinned when necessary with one of YTA 910, 920 or 925 thinner blend. Use of other thinners such as Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061)can result in a reduced speed of

cure of the product together with solvent entrapment. Such problems become more likely as film builds increase to the recommended maximum wet film builds.

Interprime 820 is suitable for both roller (multiple coat application) and spray application. The

YTA061 Epoxy thinners allows spray application in both temperate and tropical conditions.

Available in white and (by special order) tinted to a light grey for over-coating identification. Also suitable for use on GRP/fibreglass, epoxy and rigid wood constructions.

Interprotect Epoxy Primer

Interprotect is a general purpose high performance epoxy primer used for various purposes and can

be used as a primer on most substrates. It is especially suitable for priming GRP/fibreglass, epoxy and rigid wood construction and is also ideal for priming metal surfaces.

Interprotect due to its good sanding properties is also used as a sacrificial sanding primer usually after

application of the filling and fairing stages and before further priming either with itself or with Interprime 820.

Interprotect may be applied by brush and roller but multiple coats will be required to achieve the required dry film builds.

For large project work or where heavy filling and fairing is to be carried out Interprime 820 does

offer advantages when priming metal surfaces.

Intergard 263

Intergard 263 is an epoxy tie coat used prior to applying antifouling. It has extended overcoat times

with antifoulings (days rather than hours) and is a useful product where time constraints do not allow immediate application of antifouling to the last coat of epoxy primer applied. It is usually used over

Interprime 820 (YPA828) and Interprotect (YPA401).

Perfection Undercoat

A very high performance polyurethane undercoat designed for use with Perfection

It has good covering power and flows out to a smooth semi-gloss finish. It offers excellent sanding and excellent hold out of gloss of all finish coats. Applies by brush or roller to a smooth finish.

To accelerate the cure rate in cold conditions Procure X-138 accelerator can be added at a

maximum level of 2.5 mls per mixed litre. This will reduce dry times and pot lives by at least a half.

36

Perfection Undercoat may be used as a non yellowing interior white finish where a reduced gloss

finish is required.

YRA600 Undercoat

A high performance polyurethane undercoat designed for use with Perfection. It has a faster rate of

cure, offers excellent sanding properties and good hold out of gloss of all finish coats.

Not easily applied by brush or roller due to its low viscosity and fast set up times it is intended mainly

for spray application only. Its fast cure rate is achieved without the need for accelerators.

Suggested spray gun set up for Interprime 820

Conventional

Spray:

2QT Pressure

Pot

Siphon Cup Gravity Feed

Tip Size 0.070 - 0.086” NA 0.070 - 0.086”

Pot Pressure ** 10 - 15 psi NA NA

Output Pressure 50 - 60 psi NA 45 - 55 psi

HVLP: 2QT Pressure

Pot

Siphon Cup Gravity Feed

Tip Size 0.070” NA NA

Pot Pressure ** 8 -10 psi NA NA

Output Pressure 50 psi NA 45 - 55 psi

Airless spray:

Binks Bullows

Gun: 2001

Pressure pot: Tip: 66SS Needle: 565 Air Cap: 66SK

Gun: 95

Pressure pot: Tip: 66 Needle: 665 Air Cap: 66SK

Gun: 95G

Gravity feed: Tip: 65 or 66 Needle: 865 Air Cap: 66SK

Gun: Mach 1 HVLP

Pressure pot: Tip: 97 Needle: 54-4382 Air Cap: 97P

DeVilbiss JGA-510

Pressure pot: Tip: AV-650-EX Needle: JGA-402-EX Air Cap: MB-4039-30

37

Suggested spray gun set up for Interfill 835/Microsurfacer

Conventional Spray 2QT Pressure Pot

Siphon Cup Gravity Feed

Tip Size 0.070 - 0.110 NA NA

Pot Pressure ** 15 – 20 psi NA NA

Output Pressure 40 – 50 psi NA NA

DeVilbiss 558

Tip Size 1.8 - 2.5 mm

Pot Pressure 1.0 bar

Output Pressure 3.0 bar

Airless spray: Interfill 835/Microsurfacer should not be applied by

airless spray

Binks Bullows

Gun: 2001

Pressure pot: Tip: 66,67,68SS Needle:

565,567,568

Air Cap: 67PB,68PB

Gun: 95

Pressure pot: Tip: 66,67,68SS Needle:

665,667,668

Air Cap: 67PB, 68PB

DeVilbiss

Gun: JGA-510

Pressure pot: Tip: AV-650-EX Needle: JGA-402-EX Air Cap: MB-4039-

30

Pots and Cups: The pressure pot and siphon cups are not critical so long as they are of good quality

and in good condition. The Binks Bullows model 80-350 2qt pot, which is a small version of the 2 gallon pot, is extremely easy to clean and subsequently very reliable. The DeVilbiss KB525 pot is

excellent if fitted with the new “check valve paint eliminator cap” on the underside of the lid. The Sharpe “No Drip” siphon cup is inexpensive and serves admirably for small marine applications.

Although there are other guns and tip/needle/air cap combinations for the application of these materials, the above recommendations have been proven to give the best and most consistent results

under a wide range of conditions. Contact International for recommendations if you require further

information.

Note: The Binks Bullows models 62 and 18 would use the same tips and air caps as the 2001, but the needle will vary based on the model (consult your Binks Bullows supplier for a recommendation).

The DeVilbiss JGA 502 would use the same tips, needles, and air caps as the 510.

38

Pressure Drops in Air Lines

Inner line dia in mm

Operating pressure

Drop in pressure in bar/psi at a line length

Bar Psi 5 metre (16 ft) 10 metre (32 ft) 15 metre (49 ft)

bar psi bar Psi bar Psi

6mm 3 45 0.7 10.5 1.2 17.4 1.8 26.1

4 60 1.0 14.5 1.6 23.2 2.2 31.9

5 75 1.3 18.85 1.9 27.55 2.5 36.25

6 90 1.5 21.75 2.2 31.9 2.8 40.6

9mm 3 45 0.23 3.34 0.38 5.51 0.60 8.85

4 60 0.30 4.93 0.55 7.98 0.81 11.75

5 75 0.43 6.24 0.63 9.14 0.92 13.34

6 90 0.60 8.70 0.80 11.60 1.10 15.95

Because of the considerable drop in air pressure we recommend the use of air lines with an inner diameter of 9 mm. With lines of more than 10 metre length (32 ft) or high air requirement we

recommend an inner diameter of 13 mm. To control the operating pressure a compressor air

micrometer with a pressure gauge should be used on the spray gun.

Note the quantity of paint actually used. This will allow for a theoretical calculation of paint film

thickness to be calculated.

Thickness readings can be taken off the undercoat, but not the final finish coat as this would leave

marks, so place steel shims around the vessel to measure thickness of the final coat. Observe the

gloss and profile of the final coatings.

39

Precautions Health & Safety

All of the products sold by International for use in the Interspray coatings system contain chemical compounds that can damage the health of someone using them without the proper safety equipment.

Adequate protection from any product only comes from inhibiting the ingestion of these chemicals,

whether it is through the mouth, lungs, skin, or mucous membranes.

One of the more obvious rules is to never drink or eat any of these products in their cured or uncured states.

THESE PRODUCTS ARE FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

The best protection against breathing the evaporating solvents or atomised paint, particularly isocyanate containing paints such as polyurethane base-coats and finishes, is a Positive Pressure

Fresh Air System (Air fed Hood) with a full face mask to protect against inhalation through the mucous membranes, ingestion and contact with the eyes.

To protect against absorption through the skin, wear disposable paint suits with hoods, apply suitable barrier cream to hands and face, and wear gloves and masks whenever you are exposed to any of

these products. Never clean paint or epoxy off your skin with solvents. There are many excellent hand cleaners on the market.

If at any time you experience dizziness, nausea, dullness, numbness, feel intoxicated, or have

difficulty breathing during the application of these products or shortly thereafter, consult a doctor

immediately and if possible show him the MSDS sheets of the products that you were exposed to. Material Safety Data Sheets are available by calling your local International Technical

Representative.

Most of the materials listed in this Application Guide contain solvents that can ignite and burn or

explode in the presence of a flame or spark. Never smoke near an open or closed can of paint.

OVERALLS: An overall is essential to protect clothes and skin from paint, dust and other materials

commonly encountered. It should be washed regularly to avoid build-up of these materials.

SAFETY HELMET: Essential for head protection. Objects can be accidentally dropped from vessels into dock. A chinstrap will prevent the helmet from being knocked or blown off.

SAFETY SHOES: Water and oil resistant boots or shoes are needed – preferably with protected toecaps.

GLOVES: Heavy-duty gloves should be worn when required but especially when handling paint to

avoid skin contact.

MASK: A facemask with renewable filter cartridges is very useful when spraying or blasting is carried

out. It prevents inhalation of dust. The filters should be renewed regularly. There are many types available but all should be to an approved standard. Filters are available for fumes and dust and the

correct type should be chosen depending on the conditions of use.

GOGGLES: Safety spectacles to avoid eye contact with paint or paint dust are sometimes required.

EAR PROTECTORS: Sometimes required when working in continuous noises; e.g. near compressors.

40

Paint Supplies

Storage and Shelf Life

Examination upon Delivery

Paint supplies to site should be examined on delivery to ensure:

The correct materials have been supplied;

The correct quantities are present;

All batch numbers should be noted down for the records.

With 2-component paints, the quantity of base and curing agents should be checked, and it should be confirmed that the curing agents supplied are those that are stipulated for use with the base.

Wastage can be reduced if an adequate supply of small packs, instead of 20 litre kits, are available for touch-up work or stripe coats of tanks and patch painting where temporary protection of freshly

blasted steel is required.

Good housekeeping is advisable as work proceeds to ensure mistakes in mixing etc. do not occur. Different types of paint, curing agent, thinners etc. should be segregated into discrete piles to enable

a rapid assessment of stocks to be made. Hold-ups through lack of paint are never welcome.

Paint Storage

Paint should be stored in cool, dry places. If it is stored under a hot sun, it can heat up considerably

and affect its spray properties.

At the new building stage, paint can usually be stored under satisfactory conditions.

A weekly check of the paint could prevent delays on the job.

Shelf Life

All products have shelf lives and these should be taken as a guide to their usability. A moisture

sensitive material may be unusable if its shelf life is exceeded whereas other materials may be satisfactory. All shelf lives refer to storage in cool, dry conditions and paint stored in extremes of

temperature should always be inspected prior to use. If the shelf life has been exceeded and the paint, after inspection, appears unusable, it should not be used and the appropriate people should be

informed.

41

The following Coatings Diary page is an example of a diary page that should be filled in on a regular basis as a record of all paint application on any boat big or small.

It also presents a record for future years should the same boat come back for repairs or repaint.

The requirement to keep records these days, with many companies achieving ISO certification levels is such that we now state:

Any complaints/claim presented to this company will not be considered unless this

completed form is attached.

Copies of this page are freely available if required from your International paint representative or by

contacting our customer service department.

COATINGS DIARY

42

COATINGS DIARY

PROJECT: ______________________________________

CLIENT: _____________________________________ AREA: ______________________

PAINTER: _______________________________________

INSPECTOR: ____________________________________ DATE: ______________________

REFERENCE DOCUMENTS: ________________________

Specification Req'd DFT SP

Substrate Coat 1 Coat 2 Coat 3 Coat 4

Date / Time

Conditions

CLIMATE % RH

DATA Air Temperature

Dew Point

Surface Temp

Paint: YES / NO

Date / Time

SURFACE Cleanliness

PREPARATION Profile / Sanding

Date / Time

Product

Batch No. A

PAINT / Batch No. B

APPLICATION Thinning %

Thinning Product

Volume Litres

Induction Time

Recoat Time Min/Max

W.F.T.

Date / Time

Number

Min

COATING D.F.T Max

INSPECTION Average

Std Dev

Appearance

Pass / Fail / Repair

43

Aluminium Steel GRP Epoxy Timber Old 2 pack paint

Above waterline surface preparation and application guidelines.

The following system is a sample specification that shows a typical high performance system for use on all substrates. It shows how alternative products may be used at various stages and shows how various steps can be left out if not required. Due to the wide variation in possible combinations we suggest you contact an International representative for specifications tailored to your exact requirements.

Step Procedure Product choice New

Surface

Previously

painted

surface in good

condition

1 Substrate preparation

Suitable liquid detergent and/or Antifouling Thinner

#3

Required Required

2 Surface clean up Antifouling Thinner #3 Required Required

3 Surface Priming Interprime 820 or

(Interprotect for non

metallic surfaces)

Required Optional if

not filling

4 Filling & Fairing Interfill 830 or HT9000 Optional Optional

4 Finishing Filler Interfill 833 Optional Optional

4 Sprayable Filler Microsurfacer Optional Optional

5 Priming Interprime 820 or Interprotect

Required Optional

6 Undercoating Perfection Undercoat or

YRA600 Undercoat

Required Required

7 Finishing Perfection Required Required

(Step 1) Surface Preparation Aluminium

1. Prior to grit blasting or disc grinding the aluminium it is imperative to remove all grease, oil, dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter with a suitable liquid detergent before wiping down with

Antifouling Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

2. Either grit-blast with an appropriate blast media, or disc grind the surface with 36 grit abrasive

discs to a uniform 50-75 micron (2-3 mils) profile, clean, bright metal surface.

44

(Step 1) Surface Preparation Steel

1. Prior to grit blasting or disc grinding the steel, it is imperative to remove all grease, oil, dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter with a suitable liquid detergent before wiping down with

Antifouling Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

2. Either grit-blast to a clean, Near White Metal Blast (AS1627.4 Class 2.5) with an appropriate

blast media, or disc grind the surface with 36 grit abrasive discs to a uniform 50-75 micron profile, clean, bright metal surface (AS1627.2 Class 3).

(Step 1) Surface Preparation GRP/Epoxy Composite

1. Degrease the surface with a suitable liquid detergent.

2. Remove all grease, oil, dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter by wiping down with Antifouling

Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

3. Abrade the surface with 180-grit.

(Step 1) Surface Preparation Timber

1. The wood surface must be clean, dry, and sound. Never paint over green, oily, wet, or rotten

wood.

2. Abrading the surface may require different grades of paper depending on timber types. In some

instances up to 80 grit paper may be required to clean the timber and obtain a sound surface.

(Step 1) Surface Preparation Old Polyurethane Paint

1. Wash surface with a suitable liquid detergent.

2. Remove all grease, oil, dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter by wiping down with Antifouling

Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

3. Abrade the surface with 120 – 180 grit paper to remove the gloss from the existing finish.

Preparation (Step 2 ) Surface Clean Up for all substrates

1. Remove all blasting or sanding/disking residues preferably with an industrial vacuum cleaner.

2. On non-metallic surfaces wipe down with Antifouling Thinners # 3 (YTA085) just prior to

priming.

3. Apply the Interprime 820 (YPA828) within 3-4 hours of abrading the steel or aluminium making sure the surface remains clean and dry (no condensation or dew) during that time. For

GRP, timber and old polyurethane surfaces the Interprime 820 can be applied at any interval

provided the surface is kept clean.

45

(Step 3) Surface Priming Option 1 for any substrate. Interprime 820 Epoxy Primer

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA828) or Grey Base (YPA829) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YPA824).

2. Reduce Interprime 820 (YPA828) 15 - 20% by volume with Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061)

for conventional spray application, and apply one coat at 140 microns WFT (65 microns DFT). If

applying by airless spray reduction is normally not required.

Note: It is not necessary to abrade Interprime 820 prior to the application of the fairing compounds unless the maximum overcoat time is exceeded. If you find you are in danger of exceeding the re-coat window, just apply another coat of Interprime 820 within 6 months (3 months at 35C+) of the initial application, and you will renew your re-coat window. For overcoating times and preparation see the Interprime 820 Product Data Sheet.

(Step 3) Surface Priming Option 2 for non- metallic surfaces. Interprotect Epoxy Primer

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA401) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YPA402).

2. At one coat of Interprotect (YPA401) at typically 120 microns WFT (50 microns DFT).

3. For airless spray no reduction is normally required. For conventional spray reduce using

minimum quantities of appropriate reducer Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061).

4. When cured sand with 60/80 grade if filling and fairing or 120/180 if applying more primer or

undercoat.

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

(Step 4) Filling and Fairing Option 1 Interfill 830 &/or Interfill 833 &/or Microsurfacer

1. Thoroughly mix (1) one part by volume Interfill 830 Base (YAA867) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YAA869).

2. Apply Interfill 830 (YAA867) using a screed or fairing batten and spread over the surface to a maximum of 2.0cm per coat (approximately 1 inch) Sand with 60/80 grade paper to ensure a

good physical key for subsequent coats.

3. After finishing sanding for fairing, remove all sanding residues.

Note: For best void free application restrict each screed application to no more than around 5-6mm.

Interfill 833 Epoxy Finishing Compound.

1. Thoroughly mix (1) one part by volume Base (YAA813) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YAA815) and apply immediately.

2. Apply the fairing compound using a screed and working well into the surface to fill pinholes, air bubbles and sand scratches etc (Maximum thickness of 3mm). Sand with 60/80 grade paper to

ensure a good physical key for subsequent coats.

3. After sanding, remove all sanding residues prior to applying more filler or primer.

46

Microsurfacer

1. For Microsurfacer mix (6) six parts by volume Base (YAA875) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YAA376).

2. If thinning is required for the Microsurfacer (YAA875) then add up to 5% Epoxy Thinners

#7 (YTA061).

3. Apply (1) one full coat by conventional spray at 800 microns WFT maximum to give 500

microns DFT. Note: these products are not suitable for airless spray application and should not be applied at thickness’ exceeding those recommended.

4. Can be applied directly over Interfill 830 (YAA867) observing the recommended over-

coating times.

Note: Microsurfacer should not be used as a means of attempting to overcome inadequate sanding

and preparation of Interfill 830. This practice could lead to amplification of sanding marks particularly in dark colours. It could also lead to over application of Microsurfacer.

5. When cured sand with 120/180 grade paper before overcoating.

6. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

7. A second coat of Microsurfacer (YAA875/YAA376) may be applied if required observing the over coating intervals recommended (see Microsurfacer product data sheets).

(Step 4) Filling and Fairing Option 2 HT9000 Epoxy Fairing Compound &/or Microsurfacer

1. Thoroughly mix the appropriate quantities of HT9000 Part A (YAA909), HT9000 Part B

(YAA910), HT330 (YXA330) and HT110 (YXA110) until uniform.

2. Apply using a screed or fairing batten and spread over the surface to a maximum of 2.0cm per

coat (approximately 1 inch) Sand with 60/80-grade paper to ensure a good physical key for subsequent coats.

3. After finishing sanding for fairing, remove all sanding residues.

Note: For best void free application restrict each screed application to no more than around 5–6 mm

Microsurfacer.

1. For Microsurfacer mix (6) six parts by volume Base (YAA875) with (1) one part by volume

Curing Agent (YAA376).

2. If thinning is required add up to 5% Epoxy Thinners #7 (YTA061).

3. Apply (1) one full coat by conventional spray at 800 microns WFT maximum to give 500

microns DFT. Note: these products are not suitable for airless spray application and should not be applied at thickness’ exceeding those recommended.

Note: Microsurfacer should not be used as a means of attempting to overcome inadequate sanding and preparation of the HT9000 Fairing mix. This practice could lead to amplification of sanding marks particularly in dark colours. It could also lead to over application of Microsurfacer.

4. When cured sand with 120/180 grade paper before overcoating.

47

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

6. A second coat of Microsurfacer (YAA875/YAA376) may be applied if required observing the

overcoating intervals recommended (see Microsurfacer product data sheets).

(Step 5) Priming Option 1 Interprime 820 Epoxy Primer

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA828) with (1) one part by volume

Curing Agent (YPA824).

2. After the filling and profiling operation is complete a full coat of Interprime 820 (YPA828) should be applied at 275 microns WFT (125 microns DFT).

3. For airless spray no reduction is normally required. For conventional spray reduce using

minimum quantities of Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061). Multiple coats may be required to

achieve correct film builds.

4. When cured sand with 120 -180 grade paper before overcoating.

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

(Step 5) Priming Option 2 Interprotect Epoxy Primer

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA401) with (1) one part by volume

Curing Agent (YPA402).

2. At least one full coat of Interprotect (YPA401) should be applied at 305 microns WFT (125

microns DFT).

3. For airless spray no reduction is normally required. For conventional spray reduce using minimum quantities of appropriate reducer Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061). Multiple coats may

be required to achieve correct film builds.

4. When cured sand with 120 - 180 grade paper before overcoating.

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

(Step 6) Undercoating Option 1 Perfection Undercoat

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume Base (YRA003) with (1) one part by volume

Curing Agent (YGA006).

2. Reduce 25-35% with the appropriate thinner (YTA910 10 – 23ºC YTA920 23 – 35ºC to 14 –

20 seconds DIN 4) and apply at 100 microns WFT (50 microns DFT).

48

3. Accelerate to shorten drying times if required by adding a maximum of 2.5 mls per mixed litre

of Procure X-138 Accelerator (073015).

4. After adequate curing time (see Perfection Undercoat Product Data Sheet) abrade with 320 – 400 grit paper.

5. Remove sanding residue.

6. Apply a further coat at 100 microns WFT (50 microns DFT) and when cured abrade with 320/400 grade paper. Remove sanding residue in preparation for the application of Perfection

finishing coat.

(Step 6) Undercoating Option 2 YRA600 Undercoat

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume Base (YRA600) with (1) one part by volume

Curing Agent (YGA006).

2. Reduce 20-30% with Polyurethane Spraying Thinners (YTA064).

3. Apply a coat at 106 microns WFT (48 microns DFT)

4. After adequate curing time (see YRA600 Undercoat Product Data Sheet) abrade with 320

– 400 grit paper.

5. Remove sanding residue.

6. Apply a further coat at 106 microns WFT (48 microns DFT) and when cured abrade with

320/400 grade paper. Remove sanding residue in preparation for the application of Perfection finishing coat.

(Step 7) Finishing Perfection

1. Thoroughly mix (2) two parts by volume Perfection Base with (1) one part by volume

Perfection Hardener.

2. Reduce the topcoat to 14 - 15 seconds DIN 4 = 14 - 16 second Zahn #2 for all applications using appropriate YTA Series Thinner.

3. Accelerate as required with minimum level of Procure X-138 Accelerator (73015).

4. Apply a minimum of three coats wet on tacky.

5. An option at this stage is to apply the Perfection by brush and/or roller if desired following the details as described earlier.

Note:

Perfection should be applied to achieve a minimum DFT of 75 microns If Perfection Plus is to be used this should be taken into account before applying

the last coat of product in case blending is required due to the choice of colour. If recoating Perfection with itself sand to remove gloss using 320/400 grade

paper.

49

50

New substrates below waterline

With or without Filler For refurbishment of existing antifouling paint please refer to page 20.

Step Procedure Product choice New Surface

1 Substrate

preparation

Suitable liquid detergent, Antifouling Thinner #3 Required

2 Surface clean up Antifouling Thinner #3 Required

3 Surface priming Interprime 820 or (Interprotect for non metallic

surfaces)

Optional if not

filling.

4 Filling and Fairing As for above waterline spec on previous pages Optional

5 Priming Interprime 820 or Interprotect Required

6 Tie coating Intergard 263 Required if

Interprime 820 used. Strongly

recommended if Interprotect used.

7 Antifouling Antifouling as chosen Required

(Step 1) Surface Preparation Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 2) Surface Clean up Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 3) Surface Priming Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 4) Filling and Fairing Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 5) Priming Option 1 Interprime 820 High Performance Primer

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume Interprime 820 White Base (YPA828) or Grey Base (YPA829) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YPA824).

2. Apply (2) two coats of Interprime 820 (YPA828) to 275 microns WFT (125 microns DFT) per

coat resulting in a total dry film build of 250 microns. If applying by airless spray reduction is

normally not required.

51

(Step 5) Priming Option 2 Interprotect Epoxy Primer

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA401) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YPA402).

2. Apply (2) two coats of Interprotect (YPA401) at 305 microns WFT (125 microns DFT) per

coat resulting in a total dry film build of 250 microns. If applying by airless spray reduction is

normally not required.

Important Note: If a tie coat is not to be applied over the Interprotect (YPA401) the antifouling MUST be

applied well within the stipulated antifouling overcoat period otherwise adhesion problems may be

encountered. Use of Intergard 263 tie coat is strongly recommended to avoid such problems, especially with high performance antifoulings.

(Step 6) Tie Coating Intergard 263

1. Thoroughly mix (4) four parts by volume of Intergard 263 Base (FAJ034) with (1) one part

by volume Curing Agent (FAA262).

2. Apply (1) one coat at 175 microns WFT (100 microns DFT).

1. Apply chosen antifouling within the maximum recoat period of the tie coat used. If this time period is exceeded apply a further coat of the tie-coat.

(Step 7) Antifouling As required

52

Painting Project

Control Guidelines

This section is intended as guidance for most situations applicable to Project Management. However,

it needs to be realised that guidance notes cannot cover all situations and at times the experience of the Project Manage and Technical Support will be required for specific issues.

Nominating the Project Manager A Project Manager should be appointed by the boatyard to cover the project – for new building or M&R. Ideally this nomination should take place as early as possible in the project so that there is one

main contact to deal with. Details of the vessel and the nominated Project Manager should be notified to International Paints. International will appoint a Technical Representative whose role will be that of

an advisor.

The Role of the Project Manager The Project Manager usually serves the mutual interest of the yard plus the paint contractor, unlike

the Owners Representative whose prime interest is matters relating to the owners.

The Project Manager has the job of co-ordinating activities and, as a major point of attention,

ensuring the specification is adhered to and carried out.

The Project Manager is usually a practical person, who, in case of doubt, gives or seeks crucial advice in taking the final decision.

The Project Manager is a key communicator with all parties, making sure that work is progressed in a manner that services the interest of the boatyard.

The Project Manager, when necessary, should arrange meetings with the Technical Representative to

cover any aspects related to advice in respect of paint application or specifications and other paint

related subjects where advice is needed.

The Role of the Technical Representative The Technical Representative is an employee of the Paint Company as a paint expert, in a position to

interpret the tolerances as laid down in the specification and data sheets and to offer advice

accordingly.

The Technical Representative is a technical resource for the Project Manager and can be asked to comment on whether or not preparation or application meets the specification.

There is no Project Management or Supervision function for the Technical Representative and no

power to approve or reject work.

The Technical Representative is well versed in instrumentation and will advise the Project Manager of those instruments and methods best suited to obtain meaningful measurements and results.

The Technical Representative is knowledgeable of preparation standards and will advise the Project

Manager accordingly.

The Technical Representative has a sound knowledge of application equipment and its’ prime

function, identification of faults etc.

The Technical Representative will visit the project periodically and be in close liaison with the Project

Manager and on occasions with other interested parties although it is acknowledged that the Project Manager is the prime contact.

53

Stages of Project Control Once the Project Manger/Controller is nominated, he/she is totally responsible for that project and should ensure that the following points are covered:

Gather as much information as possible on the specification and all contacts involved with the

paint supplier. The Technical Representative is obviously the key contact.

Understand the supply chain and finalise the product requirements.

Discuss and agree on the product delivery.

Discuss with the International Technical Representative the support requirements for the

project.

Establish with the boatyard/applicators the programme of work to be undertaken.

Agree the work programme.

Ensure all administration forms are in supply –e.g. coating diary, technical exception report,

inspections report form, etc – for the project and that they are appropriately completed. Check that the inspection equipment that will be required for the project is available.

Ensure that the applicator understands the products and if necessary arrange trials on panels

prior to commencing the job.

Requesting a Paint Specification Before requesting a specification, it is advisable to gather as much information as possible on the

project and discuss with the Paint Company.

If possible finalise the product specification well before the project commences. All parties must understand and agree on the specification.

The Paint Company must approve any changes to, or deviation from the specification.

During construction there may be a sequence of events that is not acceptable to one of the parties. These should be recorded in an "Exception Report".

Planning the Work Programme A programme of work should be agreed with owner’s representatives, contractors and yard personnel

to ensure that delays are minimal and all interested parties know their responsibilities.

It is often useful to have the contractor and yard foremen, involved with the co-ordination of the

work, attend these meetings as management personnel are sometimes not in day-to-day contact with the project and lines of communication can get crossed.

The details and dates of the work programme should be sent to the Paint Company who should also

be kept informed of the progress.

A daily record should be kept, and a brief summary each month of a new-buildings progress is very

much appreciated by the project manager of the vessel.

It is important to agree any inspection times if a Technical Representative from the Paint Company is required.

Personal Health and Safety

Boat building and yacht repairing can be a hazardous environment in which to work. The Project

Controller must be fully aware of the precautions that need to be taken and of the safety equipment

that should be worn by staff and visitors.

OVERALLS: An overall is essential to protect clothes and skin from paint, dust and other materials commonly encountered. It should be washed regularly to avoid build-up of these materials.

54

SAFETY HELMET: Essential for head protection. Objects can be accidentally dropped from vessels

into dock. A chinstrap will prevent the helmet from being knocked or blown off. SAFETY SHOES: Water and oil resistant boots or shoes are needed – preferably with protected

toecaps. GLOVES: Heavy-duty gloves should be worn when required but especially when handling paint to

avoid skin contact.

MASK: A facemask with renewable filter cartridges is very useful when spraying or blasting is carried out. It prevents inhalation of dust. The filters should be renewed regularly. There are many types

available but all should be to an approved standard. Filters are available for fumes and dust and the correct type should be chosen depending on the conditions of use.

GOGGLES: Safety spectacles to avoid eye contact with paint or paint dust are sometimes required. EAR PROTECTORS: Sometimes required when working in continuous noises; e.g. near compressors.

Paint Supplies, Storage and Shelf Life Paint supplies to site should be examined on delivery to ensure:

The correct materials have been supplied;

The correct quantities are present;

All batch numbers should be noted down for the records.

With two-pack paints, the quantity of base and curing agent should be checked, and it should be

confirmed that the curing agents supplied are those that are stipulated for use with the base.

Wastage can be reduced if adequate supplies of small packs, instead of 20 litre drums, are available for touch-up work or stripe coats of tanks and patch painting where temporary protection of freshly

blasted steel is required.

Good housekeeping is advisable as work proceeds to ensure mistakes in mixing, etc., do not occur.

Different types of paint, curing agent, thinners, etc., should be segregated into discreet piles to enable a rapid assessment of stocks to be made. Hold-ups through lack of paint are never welcome.

Paint should be stored in cool, dry places. If stored under a hot sun it can heat up considerably and affect its spray properties. A tarpaulin draped over the drums will not prevent the paint from heating

up and the need to thin. At new building, paint can usually be stored under satisfactory conditions. A weekly check of the paint could prevent delays on the job.

All products have shelf lives and these should be taken as a guide to their usability. A moisture-sensitive material may be unusable if its shelf life is exceeded, whereas other materials may be

satisfactory. All shelf lives refer to storage in cool, dry conditions and paint stored in extremes of temperature should always be inspected prior to use. If the shelf life has been exceeded and the

paint, after inspection, appears unusable, it should not be used and the appropriate people should be

informed.

Surface Preparation

Steel

Surface preparation invariably involves blasting to a minimum of Sa. 2½. Prior to blasting:

Steelwork should be degreased and weld splatter removed.

Weld seams and sharp edges should be ground down to prevent too thin coatings being

applied. The profile achieved will depend on the abrasive used, the air pressure and the blasting

technique. Inadequate profile = insufficient mechanical key. Excessive profile = uneven

coverage of sharp peaks. All debris must be removed by vacuum cleaning prior to painting.

Compare the blast profile to the standard photograph for colour of steel.

Measure the mean apparent amplitude (MAA) using the surface profile gauge making sure the

steel is not shadowed, contaminated or containing embedded grit.

Aluminium

Before any other preparation commences, the surface must be thoroughly degreased.

55

Following degreasing, the surface can be grit blasted, prepared by abrasive disking or treated with an

etch primer to ensure thorough removal of the oxidised surface layer. Measure the mean apparent amplitude using the surface profile gauge.

Wood Bare wood should be checked for wet rot, gribble or teredo worm, signs of reaction with metals,

cracking, flexible wood allowing water penetration. All bare wood should be sanded down by either hand or mechanical methods and then all traces of

sanding dust must be removed as this will impair adhesion and produce a “bitty” finish. With oily woods, such as teak, swab the surface with a strong solvent and wipe down with lint-free

cloths followed by sanding. A coat of suitable varnish will be required.

An average "dry" piece of timber contains about 14-18% moisture. Any excessive variation from this will cause problems.

GRP Firstly, the "release" agent used to allow the removal of the hull from the mould must be thoroughly removed.

The gelcoat should be checked for:

Pinholes – if present these will need to be filled prior to painting.

Star crazes – very difficult to detect and sometimes only show up after the first coat of paint has been applied. They need to be chiselled out and filled.

Blisters – this may mean moisture content, so the hull should be checked for osmosis by using a moisture meter. If osmosis is present the gelcoat will need to be removed and an osmosis treatment

scheme applied.

Priming

Initial Priming Prior to application: Note batch numbers of products to be used.

Note conditions at time of application and fill out Daily Coatings Diary. For application by airless spray, carry out spray trials first to check that the correct film builds can be

suitably applied.

After application:

It is difficult to get accurate readings off a blast profile so the following approaches should be adopted:

Calculate the volume of paint for a given area and back-calculate against actual usage, then giving the WFT spread.

Place steel shims (small pieces of steel) around the vessel in portholes, etc., from which thickness

readings can be taken. These are removed for measurement and the area beneath touched in by brush.

Check for bare patches of substrate that may need to be touched up prior to filling stages.

Further Priming Coats after Filling Prior to application: Note batch numbers to be used.

Note conditions at time of application. Carry out airless spray checks.

After application: Note quantity of paint used – work out volume versus area and WFT.

Look for patches of bare metal holding primer grinning through and make good the thickness.

56

Check for toughness of the coatings and adhesion to the filler using the crosshatch test (knife & tape).

Check for pinholes – further filling may be required if they are present. Check for orange peel – if excessive, more sanding down is required which will cut down the thickness

of the primer, so re-check the thickness of the system after sanding. Check the overall sheen of the coating – this indicates the smoothness of the application and the

accuracy of the profile.

Check for any traces of solvent odour. Step up the heat and ventilation to see if that clears it and if not the coating will have to be ground off; dry the substrate and start again.

Carry out spot measurements of the dry film thickness’ of the overall system.

Fillers The ability to profile large yachts is a key element in the paint processing of a superyacht. It is the most labour-intensive feature and often the most misunderstood. Filling tends to be a wasteful

process with as much as 50% of the material being rubbed off. This presents a dust hazard both to the operator and to the final finish unless high standards of hygiene are observed.

Prior to application:

Standards and control of fillers are of paramount importance. Controlled storage is equally as

important to pastes as it is to liquid paints. Cold fillers apply badly, are prone to pull on the fairing battens and are highly susceptible to micro-aeration resulting in pin-holing, or worse – larger

occlusions in the film. The texture of the filler at ambient temperatures has significance to the profile attained. If excess

pressure is needed on battens then undulations in the profile will occur. If profile is to be accurate at

the time when the batten is drawn, the potential to maintain the batten to a given radius whilst drawing off the excess filler is a prerequisite. In cases of filling straight panels, the same level of

accuracy is required where raised filler meets portholes. Check batch numbers to be used and record.

Check actual weight of fillers to ensure it is within recommended limits.

Note conditions at time of application. The mixing exercise is of paramount importance so check both before and after application for un-

dispersed agglomerates. Decisions as to whether any post curing of the filler will be required will need to be thought out in

advance to allow for tenting/heating etc and also to avoid conflict with other work being carried out.

After application:

Note actual quantity used in the filling process. Pinholes and occlusions in filler greatly increase the labour content and are a key factor in many of the

delays occurring on larger vessels. Outside of aspects relating to storage, air may be induced into the combined components by over-zealous mixing. That apart, voids of this nature need to be filled as

they may cause the system to blister if the vessel is going to be operating in warm climates.

It is normal practice to rub down the filled surface with coarse grades of paper – this will cause certain voids to become enlarged whilst other smaller holes may become filled with rubbing debris. It

is essential that this is cleaned away before a decision is made as to forthcoming procedures to be adopted.

If the profile is reached after rubbing down, then the need for a finishing filler will be removed and the requirement will change to that of filling pinholes and the scratches evident after rubbing down.

Attending to pinholes will be ineffective unless good lighting is available and even with this facility it

may prove necessary to repeat the process several times over. As a final check it is a good idea to roll a thin coat of primer over the surface to highlight any remaining problems in the knowledge that

this coat may be rubbed away. Degree of cure should be measured by Shore D Hardness Tester and tabulated.

Radius all angles. It is poor painting practice to allow angles to exist where dirt, seawater and

possibly cleaning fluids can collect. Corners should be an unobtrusive radius.

57

Finishing Prior to application: The Project Manager/Controller must be pedantic about trial applications of both undercoat and finish

coatings. The trials should be organised well in advance (at the priming stages) in readiness for the final application.

Items to be checked include nozzle size, air pressure, fluid pressure, air cap size, seals, etc.

Ensure all guns are at the same settings and operate in the same fashion – work out how many passes with the gun are recommended to ensure a consistent finish and thickness.

After mixing, check the viscosity using viscosity cups. Note the batch numbers of products to be used.

Note conditions at the time of application.

Allowance should also be made for cleaning the vessel. This work should be pre-arranged at the stage of setting the work programme. The whole vessel should be washed and dusted down and re-

masked prior to paint application. Consideration will need to be given to ensuring a good dust free environment together with good

lighting and staging to enable the topcoats to be applied to a high level of finish. Forced air extraction and tenting may also be required if conditions in the general factory are below a satisfactory level of

cleanliness.

After application:

Note the quantity of paint actually used. Thickness readings can be taken off the undercoat but not the final finish coat as this would leave

marks. Place steel shims around the vessel to measure thickness of the final coat.

Observe the gloss and profile of the final coatings.

Antifouling

Prior to application: Compatibility of antifouling is vitally important. If an antifouling system currently exists on the vessel,

check the compatibility of the new antifouling to be applied – it may be necessary to remove the current coating or apply a barrier coat.

If the antifouling is to be spray applied, carry out spray trials prior to actual application. Note batch numbers to be used.

Note conditions at the time of application.

After application:

Note quantity of paint actually used. Check thickness of coating to ensure required protection service period is reached.

Signing Off a Project

Towards the end of a project the yard will normally call an Acceptance Meeting to be attended by:

Contractor

Skipper of yacht

Owner's Representative

Project Manager of the yard

Managing Director of the yard

All sign a final protocol to say that the job is completed.

The Coating Diary and other reports issued by the Project Controller should be copied to the yard, contractor and Paint Company.

58

Resin grams Hardener grams HT110 grams HT330 grams Final Mixed

Volume in Litres

366 104 6 131 1

733 208 12 262 2

1100 312 17 394 3

1466 416 23 525 4

1833 520 29 656 5

2199 624 35 787 6

2566 728 41 918 7

2932 832 46 1050 8

3299 936 52 1181 9

3666 1040 58 1312 10

5498 1559 87 1968 15

7331 2079 116 2624 20

9165 2599 145 3280 25

10998 3119 174 3936 30

12830 3639 203 4592 35

14663 4159 232 5248 40

16495 4678 261 5904 45

18328 5198 290 6560 50

1. The above weights are for guidance purposes only and may require to be varied for different applications.

2. It is suggested that samples from each mix are placed on tin lids and noted where they are being used on the vessel. Then the next day each mix can be checked to ensure it has

developed its correct hardness. Those that are suspect are easily located and the area can be reinstated as required.

3. All mixes used on one viewable area should be the same to avoid differences in thermal expansion resulting in unsightly print thru problems.

4. Fillers should also be finish sanded with at least 80 grit papers (no coarser) to avoid print thru

of the sanding marks.

Chart 1 HT9000 Filling and Fairing weight-mixing table. For use with the new 321 HT9000 product. (YAA909/YAA910)

59

ORIGINAL VOLUME

SOLIDS OF PAINT

PERCENTAGE OF THINNER ADDED TO PAINT

5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 33% 50%

15% 14 13.6 13 12.5 12 11 10

20% 19 18 17 16.7 16 15 13

25% 24 23 22 21 20 19 17

30% 29 27 26 25 24 23 20

35% 33 32 30 29 28 26 23

40% 38 36 35 33 32 30 27

45% 43 41 39 37 36 34 30

50% 48 45 43 42 40 38 33

55% 52 50 48 46 44 41 37

60% 57 55 52 50 48 45 40

65% 62 59 56 54 52 49 43

70% 67 64 61 58 56 53 47

75% 71 68 65 62 60 56 50

80% 76 73 70 67 64 60 53

85% 81 77 74 71 68 64 57

90% 86 82 78 75 72 68 60

95% 90 86 83 79 76 71 63

100% 95 91 87 83 80 75 67

Volume Solids after Thinning % =

Volume Solids Before Thinning

100 + Percentage of Thinner Added

Use this chart to calculate the new volume solids of your paint mix after thinning by a certain percentage.

Chart 2 Thinning and Volume Solids Calculator

60

WET FILM THICKNESS REQUIRED TO ACHIEVE DRY FILM THICKNESS AT STATED VOLUME

SOLIDS

VOLUME

SOLIDS

DRY FILM THICKNESS

(MICRONS)

25 50 75 100 125 150 200 250 300 500 1000

10% 250 500

15% 166 334 500

20% 125 250 375 500

25% 100 200 300 400 500

30% 83 167 250 333 417 500

35% 72 143 214 286 357 429 571

40% 62.5 125 187 250 312 375 500

45% 55 111 167 222 278 333 444 555

50% 50 100 150 200 250 300 400 500

55% 45 91 136 182 227 273 364 454

60% 42 83 125 167 208 250 333 417 500

65% 38 77 115 154 192 231 308 385 461 770

70% 36 71 107 143 178 214 286 357 428 714

75% 33 67 100 133 167 200 267 333 400 667

80% 31 62 94 125 156 187 250 312 375 625

85% 29 59 88 118 147 176 235 294 353 588

90% 28 56 83 111 139 167 222 278 333 555 1111

95% 26 53 79 105 132 158 210 236 316 526 1052

100% 25 50 75 100 125 150 200 250 300 500 1000

Wet Film Thickness = Dry Film Thickness x 100

Volume Solids %

Use this chart to calculate required wet film builds to apply to achieve

required dry film build stated in specification.

Chart 3 Wet/Dry Film Builds Versus Volume Solids.

61

Volume

1 US gallon = 3.785 litres

1 Quart = 0.946 litres (946 mls)

1 Pint = 0.473 litres (473 mls)

I Quart = 2 Pints (1US Quart = 2 US Pints)

4 Quarts = 1 Gallon (4 US Quarts = 1 US Gallon)

8 Pints = 1 Gallon (8 US Pints = 1 US Gallon)

1 pound per 1 US gallon = 0.11983 kilos per litre

Areas/Coverage

1 sq meter = 10.763 sq feet

Multiply sq feet/US gallon by 0.0245 to get sqm/litre

ie 300sq feet/US gallon equals 300 x 0.0245 = 7.35 sqm/litre

OR

Divide Sqft/US gallon by 40 and that will give roughly sqm/litre

ie 300 divided by 40 = 7.5

Thickness

One mil = one thou

One mil = 25 microns

1000 microns = 1 mm

1 litre of any paint or filler applied to 1 sq meter will cover that area to depth of 1mm whilst it is wet.

Temperature

95 deg F = 35 deg C

77deg F = 25 deg C

50 deg F = 10 deg C

Weight and Liquid Weight

1oz (1 ounce) = 28.35 grams

1 fluid oz = 28.4 mls

35 fluid oz = 1 litre approx.

Pressure

1 BAR = approx 14.5 psi

1Kg/cm2 = 14.4 psi

Chart 4 Useful Conversion Factors.

62

Data Associated Products Perfection (High Performance Polyurethane Finish) YH series/YGB001 (small packs)

Perfection (High Performance Polyurethane Finish) Large pack: 4 litre Snow White

YNC004, 4 litre Light base YNC002, 2 litre Part B YNC007.

Perfection Plus (High Performance Polyurethane Glaze Coat) YVA950/YVA951

Perfection Undercoat (Polyurethane Undercoat) YRA003/YGA006

YRA600 Undercoat (Polyurethane Undercoat) YRA600/YGB601

Interprime 820 (High Performance Epoxy Primer) YPA828/YPA829/YPA828

Interprotect (Epoxy Primer also used as a tie coat below w/l) YPA401/YPA402

Intergard 263 (Epoxy Primer Tie Coat) FAJ034/FAA262

Reaction Lacquer Gloss (YOB000) or Semi-Gloss (YFB000)

Primocon (YPA984)

Interfill 830 (Epoxy Filler) YAA867/YAA869

Interfill 833 (Epoxy Filler for finer filling) YAA813/YAA815

HT9000, HT330, HT110 (Epoxy Fairing Filler Components) YAA909 RESIN

YAA910 STANDARD HARDENER/YAA911 FAST HARDENER/YAA912 SLOW HARDENER

Microsurfacer YAA875/YAA376

Thinners YTA 006, 064, 061

Antifouling Thinners YTA085 (Used as a surface wipe down solvent)

Procure X-138 Accelerator (Part No 073015)

Sanding Guide Coat YMA180 (Ready to use product)

Brush YXA915 (High quality 4 inch brush for application of products such as Perfection)

Foam Roller YXA914 (For application of Perfection and other International products)

Tack Rags (Part No 073009)

63

Specifications Quick reference spec

Aluminium, Steel, GRP, Epoxy Composite or Timber Topsides,Superstructure, Interiors & Spars

High Performance Spray Application

Surface Preparation Aluminium: Degrease then low pressure grit blast using aluminium oxide or an equivalent abrasive

(not copper slag) or power disc to a surface profile of 50 – 75 microns/2-3- mils (NB Power wire brushing is not permitted as it is ineffective and wires are often steel, leading to corrosion).

Steel: Degrease then blast to near white metal AS1627.4 Class 2.5. Power tool clean all welds, damages, corroded areas and intact shop primer to AS1627.2 Class 2

GRP and Epoxy Composite: Remove any surface wax or mould release agent (parting agent) from

the laminate or gelcoat with a suitable liquid detergent or wiping with a suitable solvent. Sand to a

dull gloss free surface ensuring there are no air voids left untreated.

Timber: Sand wood thoroughly.Ensure the surface is wiped clean with a cloth soaked in International Thinners #10 or #4 or other suitable fast solvent and allow to dry.

Product Name Thickness per coat

Sequential overcoating times

WFT DFT 15°C 23°C 35°C

SURFACE PRIMING

Interprime 820

(thinned 15%) 160 microns

65

microns

Min 36 hrs 24 hrs 24 hrs

Max 3 mths 3 mths 3 mths

OPTIONAL surface primer for GRP & TIMBER

Interprotect (thinned )

102 microns 42 microns

Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs

Max - - -

FILLING & FAIRING

Interfill 830 optional 20,000 microns 20,000

microns

Min 3 days 2 days 1 day

Max - - -

Interfill 833 optional 3,000 microns 3,000 microns

Min - - -

Max - - -

Microsurfacer

Optional 800 microns

500

microns

Min 3 days 24 hrs 24 hrs

Max - - -

PRIMING

Interprime 820 275 microns 125

microns

Min 16hrs 12 hrs 6 hrs

Max 5 days 3 days 2 days

OR

64

Interprotect 305 microns 125

microns

Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs

Max - - -

UNDERCOATING

Perfection

Undercoat second coat optional

100 microns 50 microns

Min 16 hrs 10 hrs 8 hrs

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

OR

YRA600

second coat optional 106 microns

48 microns

Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs

Max - - -

TOP-COATING

Perfection 50 microns 25 microns

Min - - -

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection 75 microns 37

microns

Min - - -

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection 75 microns 37

microns

Min - - -

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Advisor Notes

Prepare the substrate in accordance with the Surface Preparation details as outlined in the

Professional Application Manual and Product Datasheets.

Surface prime with Interprime 820 (thinned 15%) as a holding primer to freshly

prepared substrate. Interprotect thinned down may be used on non-metallic surfaces. Fill and fair with Interfill 830 sand with 60 - 80 grade paper, Interfill 833 sand with 60 -

80 grade paper and/or Microsurfacer sand with 120 - 180 grade paper. Remove sanding

debris before proceeding to next steps. Prime with one coat of Interprime 820 or Interprotect.

Undercoat with one or two coats of Perfection Undercoat or YRA600 Undercoat to the

DFT specified on the product datasheet. Sand with 320 – 400 grade paper to obtain a smooth

surface. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

Topcoat with 2-3 coats of Perfection by conventional spray to obtain a full gloss.

NOTE :

1. For the filling and fairing option HT9000 blended with suitable fillers may be used

in place of the Interfill 830 and/or Interfill 833.

2. For GRP in good condition with no filling and fairing the system can commence at the undercoating stage.

3. For interior finishes the Perfection may be replaced with Reaction Lacquer Semi-gloss if such a finish is required.

Specifications Quick reference spec

Aluminium, Steel, GRP, Epoxy Composite or Timber

65

Topsides,Superstructure, Interiors & Spars

High Performance brush/roller application.

Surface Preparation

Aluminium: Chemical pre-treatment following degreasing and disc grind preparation of aluminium,

using acid etch primer.

Steel: Degrease then power tool clean all welds, damages, corroded areas and intact shop primer to AS1627.2

Class 2.

GRP and Epoxy Composite: Remove any surface wax or mould release agent (parting agent) from

the laminate or gelcoat with a suitable liquid detergent or wiping with a suitable solvent. Sand to a dull gloss free surface ensuring there are no air voids left untreated.

Timber: Sand wood thoroughly. Ensure the surface is wiped clean with a cloth soaked in

International Thinners #10 or #4 or other suitable fast solvent and allow to dry.

Product Name Thickness per coat

Sequential overcoating

times

WFT DFT 15°C 23°C 35°C

PRETREATMENT

Etch Primer (Aluminium surfaces

only)

50

microns 6 microns

Min 1 hr 1 hr 1 hr

Max 24 hrs 24 hrs 24 hrs

PRIMING

Interprotect 102 microns

42 microns

Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs

Max - - -

FILLING & FAIRING

Interfill 830 optional 20,000

microns

20,000

microns

Min 6 hrs 5 hrs 4 hrs

Max - - -

Interfill 833 optional 3,000

microns

3,000

microns

Min - - -

Max - - -

Microsurfacer

optional

800

microns

500

microns

Min 3 days 24 hrs 24 hrs

Max - - -

PRIMING

Interprotect

102

microns

42

microns

Min 5 hrs 3 hrs 2 hrs

Max 6 mths 6 mths 3 mths

Interprotect 102 42 Min 5 hrs 3 hrs 2 hrs

66

microns microns

Max 6 mths 6 mths 3 mths

Interprotect

102

microns

42

microns

Min 24hrs 16hrs 10hrs

Max - - -

UNDERCOATING

Perfection Undercoat 75

microns

38

microns

Min 16 hrs 10 hrs 8 hrs

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection Undercoat optional

75 microns

38 microns

Min 16 hrs 10 hrs 8 hrs

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

TOP-COATING

Perfection 75

microns

37

microns

Min 14 hrs 6 hrs 4 hrs

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection

75 microns

37 microns

Min 14 hrs 6 hrs 4 hrs

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection 75

microns

37

microns

Min 14 hrs 6 hrs 4 hrs

Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Advisor Notes

Prepare the substrate in accordance with the Surface Preparation details as outlined in the

Professional Application Manual and Product Datasheets.

Surface Pretreatment of Aluminium. Apply one coat of Etch Primer.

Priming. Apply at least 1 coat of Interprotect. Sand with 60/80 grade paper. Remove

sanding debris. Filling and Fairing. Use Interfill 830, Interfill 833 and/or Microsurfacer.

Priming. Apply 3 coats of Interprotect. Sand with 120/180 grade paper. Remove sanding

debris.

Undercoating. Apply 1-2 coats of Perfection Undercoat depending on condition of

substrate. Sand with 320 - 400 grade paper. Remove sanding debris. Topcoat with 2 –3 coats of Perfection

NOTE :

1. For the filling and fairing option HT9000 blended with suitable fillers may be

used in place of the Interfill 830 and/or Interfill 833.

2. For GRP in good condition with no filling and fairing the system can commence at the undercoating stage.