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Products and services products and services Innovation ...€¦ · INNOVATIVE TEXTILE FINISHING. 1. LEITAT TECHNOLOGICAL CENTER 2. TEXTILE PROCESSING 3. INNOVATIVE FINISHES 4. OTHER
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Products and services products and services
tecnology technology technology technologybusiness development business development business
new markets new markets new markets new markets
Innovation Innovation Innovation Innovationresearch research research research research
INNOVATIVE TEXTILE
FINISHING
1. LEITAT TECHNOLOGICAL CENTER
2. TEXTILE PROCESSING
3. INNOVATIVE FINISHES
4. OTHER INNOVATIVE FINISHES
INDEX
LEITAT is a Technological Research Centre in Spain, founded in 1906, that accounts for a century of experience and expertise in the textile sector.
CIT (Centre for Innovative Technology), No. 28 by the Spanish Ministry of Education and Science.
Member of the FEDIT (Spanish Federation of Institutions for Innovation and Technology).
Member of the Network of Technological Centres of the Generalitat of Catalonia. CT 04/04.
Member of the TEXTRANET: European Network of Textile Research Organizations.
TECHNOLOGICAL CENTER
TESTING
CERTIFICATION
ENVIRONMENT
R+D PROJECTS
INNOVATION AND NEW TECHNOLOGIES
TRAINING
TECHNOLOGICAL CENTER
TESTINGTESTING
R&D DEPARTMENTR&D DEPARTMENT
ENVIRONMENTENVIRONMENT PROJECTMANAGEMENT
PROJECTMANAGEMENT
• 45 Qualified Persons• 550 Equipments
• 45 Qualified Persons• 550 Equipments
• 5 Master Degrees• Spanish and
International Projects• Consulting
• 5 Master Degrees• Spanish and
International Projects• Consulting
• Strategic Reorientation• Competitiveness
Improvement• Training• Technological Watch
• Strategic Reorientation• Competitiveness
Improvement• Training• Technological Watch
EUROPEAN PROJECTS OFFICEEUROPEAN PROJECTS OFFICE
• 7 Professional Project Managers• 1 Technician• Internal EU Projects Management• Services to Companies
• 7 Professional Project Managers• 1 Technician• Internal EU Projects Management• Services to Companies
ADVANCED MATERIALSSmart Materials, Smart Textiles, Smart Systems
New Polymers, Bio Fibres
Nanotechnology
Renewable Energies
BIOMEDICINETarget Discovery
Lead Discovery
Lead Optimisation
INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENTIndustrial Design and Product Creation
Assistance in each phase of Product Development
Direct Manufacturing of Final Products through Additive Manufacturing Technologies, both metal and polymers
FAST MOVING CONSUMER GOODSAll types of consumer goods
R&D DEPARTMENT
TEXTILE
PROCESSING
TEXTILE PROCESSING
PretreatmentDyeing or
Printing Finishing
The factors affecting the quality of the final product include:
• Fibres
• Textile materials (type of yarn or weave)
• Dyes, Finishes
• Textile auxiliaries
• Temperature
• Time
• Machine
• Water (both quality and quantity)
The main objective of the pretreatment is to clean the textilematerials and to provide them the required quality and other specificcharacteristics.
The major operations involve:
• Desizing
• Scouring
• Mercerisation
• Carbonizing (wool)
• Chemical bleaching
• Optical brightening
PRETREATMENT
DYEING PROCESS
Stages in dyeing• First stage: Diffusion of the dye from the dyebath to the fibre
surface.
• Second stage: Adsorption of the dye on the fibre surface.
• Third stage: Diffusion of the dye to the fibre core.
• Fourth stage: Fixation of the dye on the fibre.
Factors affecting the dyeing process• Dye concentration in the dyebath.• Chemical constitution of the dye.• Molecular weight of the dye.
TEXTILE PRINTING
• Printing is the process by which a localised coloration is made on thetextile fabric.
• The printing is normally done by using dyes showing affinity to thefibre.
• On the other hand, it can be performed superficially with pigments, which could be fixed using thermocurable resins.
Printing Process
• Fabric preparation: The fabric should have uniform hydrophilicityand the surface should be free of fibres.
• Deposition of colorant on a dry textile surface: Operating in a continuos way to deposit the colorant on the fabric surface.
• Fixation of printed colour: It is possible by 3 ways - physical, physico-chemical and chemical ways.
• Elimination of thickener paste: Normally by means of washing.
PRINT PASTES
Composition– Thickener– Colorant– Auxiliaries– Chemical agents– Water
Characteristics
ViscosityHomogenityUniformity of printed colour
TEXTILE FINISHING
DEFINITION
Finishing is the process done on the fabric surface for modifyingthe appearence, feel and the behaviour.
Factors to be considered
• Finishing increases the cost of the fabric• A permanent finish will remain throughout the life of the
garment• A durable finish will remain during a part of the life of the
garment• A temporary finish will remain till it is washed• A renewable finish can be applied at home without the
need of any costly equipment
SHRINK-PROOF FINISH
Shrinking
Due to the relaxation of the tension in the fibres during the processes.
The finished fabric would be inferior in some properties.
It provokes changes in the postions of warp and weft from thepositions fixed by the weaving machine and adopts a more compact structure.
Finishing Proceses
Chemical: By applying resins, crosslinking agents.
Mechanical:
• Drying without tension
• Compression of fabric: The yarns are made to shrink as in
sanforizing.
Combined processes
CELLULOSICS
PERMANENT PRESSS
Objective
To fix the final form of the articles.By using resins
ProcessImpregnationDryingGarment manufactureCondensation and Curing
CELLULOSICS
WASH & WEAR
Based on resins or polycarboxilic acids
Properies attained
It is not necessary to press
WRINKLE RESISTANCE AND WRINKLE RELEASE
Finishing with formaldehyde
Formaldehyde can cause allergy, irritations, contact dermatitis…
Formaldehyde substitute: BTCA
Finishing with butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)
Create ester bonds with cellulose.
Finishing of textile with citric acid treatment or monoester of citric acid
Create ester bonds with cellulose.
CELLULOSICS
PERFORMANCE APPAREL / MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
APPLICATION OF STAIN AND
WATER RESISTANT FINISHING
SPORTSWEAR
STAIN RESISTANT
WATER RESISTANT
MOISTURE RESISTANT
CELLULOSICS
IMPROVING COMFORT/HAND
Diapers/dress materials
ComfortHydrating agent: Aloe Vera, Vitamin A y ERelaxing agent : lavender, ion therapyPCM microcapsulesAnti-mosquito agentMoisturizing microcapsules: Aloe Vera
Plasma treatment (Diaper)Increase the absorbent properties of the internal part of the diaperIncrease the hydrophobicity of the external part of the diaper
CELLULOSICS
HIGH AND DURABLE LUSTER
Luster of textile fibers⇒ Geometrical property of transparent, cylindrical
filaments with polished surface.
Processes:
⇒ Beetling
Process applied on cotton and linen. The fabric is dampened and wound around an iron cylinder, then it is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets.
⇒ Decating
Application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre.
⇒ Calendaring
CELLULOSICS
FINISHES FOR SYNTHETIC FIBRES
Softening: To provide softness
Hydrophilic finish: Increases the capacity to absorb moisture (eg. under garments)
Antipilling: Avoids pilling
Antistatic finish: To avoid generation of static electricity
Fire retardants: To develop fire proof materials
Antimicrobial: (Antibacterial and Antifungus)
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
INNOVATIVE FINISHES
Antimicrobial finishes according to their mode of action:
Bacteriostatic: Products that stop the bacterial growth
Bactericide: Products that destroy the bacteria.
The antifungal agents are also classified similarly: fungistatic and fungicide.
Antimicrobial finishes according to themechanism of their action:
Migrants: Products that spread and act as a poisonfor the microorganism.
Non-migrants: Products that destroy themicroorganism when in contact with it (acting on the membrane). This type of products can be fixedchemically on the fibres using resins, etc.
ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH
Aspergillus niger
Staphylococcus aureus
Various options are available in the market for obtainingantimicrobial textiles:
Insolubilisation of the active substance in the fibre. Treatment of fibres with resins or crosslinking agents.Microencapsulation of antimicrobial agents. Surface coating of the fibres. Chemical modification with covalent bonds. Use of graft polymers, homopolymers or copolymerisation with
the fibre.
ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH
CHITOSANChitosan, the derivative of chitin, can be produced by deacetylation of chitin with concentrated sodium hydroxide.
Chitosan is antimicrobial against various microorganisms.
ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH
TRADE MARK PRODUCER NATURE OF THE POLYMER NATURE OF THE ADDITIVE
OTHER PROPERTIESAntimicrobial, UV protection, fire retardant, antistatic, etc.
PLASMA
SURFACE TREATMENTS
Polyester Lyocell (Tencel ®) / Polyester (50/50)
1) Activation LPP air2) PECVD - Perfluorohexane
(C6F14)
PECVD
Contact angleSEM
Power level: 300, 600, 900 W
Time of treatment: 10, 20, 30 min.
SURFACE TREATMENTS
a) Non-treated Polyester
a) b)
b) Plasma-treated (10 min, 600 W) Polyester
SURFACE TREATMENTS
Plasma Enhanced Chemical vapour Deposition (PECVD)
Plasma Enhanced Chemical vapour Deposition (PECVD)
a) Non-treated Polyester/Cellulosic
a) b)
b) Plasma-treated (10 min, 600 W) Polyester/Cellulosic
SURFACE TREATMENTS
Spores of B. subtilis not treated with plasma
Plasma Sterilization
Spores of B. subtilis treated with plasma
SURFACE TREATMENTS
Plasma pretreatments to improve dyeability of COTTON with anti-microbial natural dyes
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
Ellagic acid Lacaic acid A Lawsone
(K/S
)cor
rWO-NTWO-Plasma
SURFACE TREATMENTS
-2.0
-1.5
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
Ácido elágico
WO-NTWO-Plasma
S
L
-2.0
-1.5
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
Ácido lacáico
WO-NTWO-Plasma
S
L
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
Lawsone
WO-NTWO-Plasma
S L
Antibacterial character of wool fabrics dyed with the natural dyes. (a) Ellagic acid, (b) Laccaic acid A, (c) Lawsone. Dyeing with 20% o.w.f. shade
(a) (b)
(c)
Bacteriostatic (S)Bactericide (L)
SURFACE TREATMENTS
NANOTECHNOLOGY
NANOMATERIALS
Nanoparticles
Nanotubes
Nanoporous materials
Fullerenes
Nanostructrued materials
Nanofibres
Nanocapsules
Nanothreads
NANOTECNOLOGY
PRODUCTION PROCESSES
Chemical processes
Sol-gel
Colloidal chemistry
Hydrothermic methods
Precipitation methods
Mechanical processesMilling
Pulverizing
Mechanical alloying methods
NANOPARTICLES
NANOTECNOLOGY
In-situ formation procesesLithography
Chemical vapour deposition
Spray coating
Synthesis in gas phase
Pyrolysis
Electro explosion
Laser technique
High temperature evaporation
Synthesis by plasma technique
PRODUCTION PROCESSES
NANOPARTICLES
NANOTECNOLOGY
Nanomaterials used in the textile industry
Metallic nanoparticleNanoclays
Hydrophobicity
Flame retardant
Metal-oxide nanoparticle
Self cleaning (TiO2)
UV Protection (TiO2, ZnO)
Hydrophobicity (SiO2)
Antibacterial (Ag)
Carbon nanotubes
Electrical conductivity
Heat conductivity
Abrasion resistance
High tensile strength
Nanofibre
Sound barrier
Dressing scaffold
Filtration
NANOTECNOLOGY
Anti odour and anti microbial textile
Anti odour and anti microbial textile
Nanofibre for industrial filtering
Antibacterial, sound absorption, scaffold cellular for skin
regeneration
Wicking textiles and water repellent
Selfcleaning textile (Lotus effect)
Selfcleaning textile (Lotus effect)
Properties
Ag NP
Ag NP
Carbon nanofiber
Nanofibre by electrospinning
-
Aerosol spray of NP and
polypropylene polymer
Fluorocarbon and NP
TechnologyCompany
NANOTECNOLOGY
NANOTECHNOLOGY IN TEXTILES
In recent years, crystalline ZnO and TiO2 have received much attention for their photo catalytic action.
Nanofilms of ZnO and TiO2 can easily be deposited on heat resistant surfaces like glass and silica at very high temperatures.
This can result in properties like self-cleaning, antimicrobial properties, UV protection, etc.
But the textile materials are having poor heat resistance and soalternate methods like sol-gel are being tried.
NANOTECNOLOGY
SOL-GEL TECHNIQUEThe sol-gel technique is based on the hydrolysis of liquid precursors
and formation of colloidal sols, which can be easily coated on textiles.
On the other hand, the wet gel formed, upon drying, yields porous xerogels ("dry gels").
Xerogels are stable, transparent and insoluble in water and most of organic solvents and porous solid materials.
NANOTECNOLOGY
UV PROTECTION
Sun protection creams and textiles are common choices to protectagainst UV radiation.
Several organic or inorganic UV blocking agents are now being developed to improve the UV protection function of the textiles.
The organic ones are also known as UV absorbers as they absorb the UV rays.
The inorganic ones are semiconductor oxides like ZnO, TiO2, etc., which scatter both UVA and UVB, the main cause of skin cancer.
Compared to organics, inorganic ones are now preferred due to the properties like non-toxicity, chemical stability under UV radiation, etc.
NANOTECNOLOGY
Figure 1. SEM images of undyed yarn finished with ZnO nanoparticles (1) and knitted fabric developed from this yarn (2)
YARN FINISHING
The nano ZnO finish was applied on cotton yarns with an aim to study the effect of knitting operation on the durability of nanoparticles on the yarns.
The SEM images clearly show the presence of ZnO on the yarn as well as on the fabric.
Interestingly, higher concentration of nanoparticles was observed in the fabric, which indicates that the knitting operation could induce the concentration of the particles on the surface.
It seems that the knitting process is not influential in the loading of nanoparticles, but affects significantly its morphology.
1 2
NANOTECNOLOGY
Figure 2. SEM images of dyed yarn finished with ZnO nanoparticles (1) and knitted fabric developed from this yarn (2)
YARN FINISHING
Similar trend was observed in the reactive dyed yarn and the knitted fabric elaborated from it.
But in this case, the loading of the nanoparticles was lesser as compared to the undyed yarns.
This is because of the unavailability of some functional groups for the nanoparticles due to the presence of reactive dyes.
Thus the reactive dyeing process can influence the fixation of nanoparticles, even though not very significantly.
1 2
NANOTECNOLOGY
FABRIC FINISHING (SOL-GEL)
WASHING
WASHING
DYED
DYED
Figure 3. SEM images of the nano-finished fabrics by sol-gel method: (1) undyed and unwashed, (2) undyed and washed, (3) dyed and unwashed, (4) dyed and washed
1
3 4
2
NANOTECNOLOGY
In the case of sol-gel finishing of fabrics, as expected, the nanoparticle load on dyed fabric was lesser than that of undyed fabric.
The washing process also tends to reduce the amount of nanoparticles on the surface to some extent.
Taking together the data of these two processes, washing and dyeing, it can be observed that the final nanoparticle coating of the fabric is independent of their sequence.
This indicates the robustness of the obtained material.
FABRIC FINISHING (SOL-GEL)
Figure 4. TEM images of nano-finished cotton samples: (1) undyed-unwashed and (2) after ten cycles of domestic washing.
1
2
NANOTECNOLOGY
FABRIC FINISHING (SOL-GEL)
Figure 5. SEM images of the nano-finished fabrics by sol-gel method: undyed and unwashed with low initial concentration (1) and with higher initial concentration (2)
As expected, the samples with higher initial concentrations showed a higher content of nanoparticles on the surface.
But it is noteworthy that the low initial concentration also resulted in developing a nanoparticle coating on the fabric surface.
On the other hand, the fabric with the higher initial concentration did not show a saturation of the nanoparticles showing that further loading could be possible.
21
NANOTECNOLOGY
The undyed control sample showed an UPF value of 8.85, whereas the nano-finishing has resulted in 50+ UPF values for all the unwashed and washed samples.
Even though there was a reduction in the load of nanoparticles on the fabric surface after washing, the UPF values were not affected.
In the case of dyed samples, 50+ UPF values were not achieved in any case.
UPF values increased as a function of the concentration of the sol-gel.
UPF values have improved after the washing, probably due to a morphological change of the nano-composites after washing.
UPF VALUES
48.0039.6450+50+60
41.7829.0650+50+40
35.6224.7850+50+20
28.9422.5850+50+10
-15.22-8.85Control
WashedUnwashedWashedUnwashedSol-Gel Concentration
DyedBleached
Table 1: UPF values of the unwashed and washed fabric samples before and after 10 cycles of domestic washing.
NANOTECNOLOGY
NANOTECNOLOGY
LOTUS EFFECT The lotus leaf is well known for its hydrophobicity due to the micro-buds found on its surface.
Every bud has a height of 10 to 20 microns and is separated from each other by 10 to 15 microns.
Application: Carbon nanotubes or silver nanoparticlesPlasma: Fluorocarbon coatings
Sol-gel: Tetraethyl orthosilicate (TEOS) and Tridecafluorooctyl
triethoxysilane (FAS)
NANOTECNOLOGY
SELF-CLEANING
Photocatalysis
TiO2 Nanoparticles
Nanofibre by electrospinning
NANOTECNOLOGY
Conducting fibres from synthetic polymers by theaddition of conducting polymers or carbon nanotubes
Composite of LDPE with MWCNTsPolyaniline synthesized in LEITAT
NANOTECNOLOGY
Extrusion of polymeric yarns (nanocomposite)
Twin screwed extruder
Polyethylene yarn with 10% wt carbon nanotube and pure
polyethylene yarn.
NANOTECNOLOGY
The wear resistance of original cotton: 25000 cycles at 12kPa of pressure. Carbon nanotube grafted cotton fabric: 33000 cycles.
The grafting have not improved or affected the anti-static behaviour of cotton.
Multiwall Carbon Nanotube grafting on COTTON
NANOTECNOLOGY
NANOTECNOLOGY
Carbon Nanotubes for improving mechanical properties
SEM images of CNTs on fabrics: untreated fabric (left) and pretreated with airplasma (right)
Sample realized with Jacquard machine using CNT yarn as weft
Sample realized with CNT yarn using the flat knitting machine
Sample realized with CNT coated yarn using the circular knitting machine
NANOTECNOLOGY
CNT Coating on PES Yarn
DEVELOPMENT OF BIOMATERIALS
Development of biodegradable materials like PLA from agricultural by-products as substitutes for petroleum derivatives.
Blending conventional polymers with:
Natural products and nanoparticles
BIOPOLYMERS
Bio-degradable and bio-compatible fibres frombiopolymers and blends with natural fibres
Biocomposites based on polycaprolactone
Biocomposites based on PLA
NEW POLYMERS
BIOPOLYMERS
OTHER
INNOVATIVE
FINISHES
Microcapsules
Application of microcapsules
MICROCAPSULES
Cosmetics, pharmaceutics, medicine, hygiene
Hydrating agent: Aloe Vera, Vitamin A y EAnticelulitis agent : caffeineRelaxing agent : lavender, ion therapyAromatherapyAntimicrobial agent (Chitosan Microcapsules)Anti-odour agent PCM microcapsulesPerfume microcapsules
“Shape memory polymers (SMPs) are smart materials that, as a result of an external stimulus such as temperature or moisture, can change from a temporary deformed shape, back to an original shape”.
Principle:
Integration of polyurethane fibres or a shape memory alloy, Nitinol, between the fibers which compose the textile.
Nitinol:
Composed of Nickel and titanium (Nickel titanium, NiTi).
Able to change shape according to the temperature.
Properties:
Increase comfort
(adjust to cooler or warmer temperatures)
Wrinkle-free fabric
Smart fabrics
SHAPE MEMORY FABRICS
Thermochromic dispersions
Colour to colourless fabric when temperature rise
Reappearing of colour when temperature reduce again
Body temperature control via textile colour changes
Safety guarantee
Principle:
CHROMIC PIGMENTS
Phosphorescent dispersions
Colour fabric in dark place
Fabric design
Signalization
Safety
Principle:
The energy absorbed by the
phosphorescent dispersion
is released relatively slowly
in the form of light.
PHOSPHORESCENT PIGMENTS
DIGITAL PRINTING - MEMS
Intelligent fabric incorporating MEMS and application sectors
MicroElectroMechanical Systems (MEMS) on flexible fabrics
Operational sequence in
3D printing process
PROCESS
• Thick film printing and sacrificial etching for 3D MEMS structures.
• Inkjet printing and build up of 3D MEMS structures by successive layer deposition
AIM
• Deposition of passive materials (e.g. insulator, conductor and material with good mechanical properties).
• Deposition of active materials (e.g. piezoelectric, piezoresistive).
Expandable Graphite (EG) belongs to a group of products called intumescents.
The main property of intumescents is their ability to expand when heated.
Expandable graphite can be applied in flame retardant materials and the expansion volume is up to 300-400 ml/g.
FOAM FINISHING
Foam finishing is technique to apply a foam on a textile surface to provide various functional properties.
The machine consists of a blender for water, chemicals and air to generate foam and a foam applicator.
Foam finishing can reduce the use of water in the textile industry.
Brittany Dyeing and Printing Corporationand NICE3 (National Industrial Competitiveness through Energy, Environment, and Economics) has developed a new process
REFLECTANT TAPES
The reflectant tapes are either based on microprisms fixed on clean hard surface or microspheres applied as a formulation.
HIGH SPEED SWIM SUITS
SPEEDO, OCRA, ARENA,
KIWAMI are the market leaders
OPTICALLY VARIABLE PIGMENTS
Optically variable pigments generate their color through the interference of light rays reflected from interfaces between multiple layers of materials differing in refractive index.