processing

Report on the Textiles & Wet Processing Industry of India

Pearl Academy of Fashion 0

REPORT ON

THE TEXTILES &

WET PROCESSING INDUSTRY Of INDIA



Textile Industry in India – An Overview Indian textiles, renowned for their fine quality and captivating colours for ages, have attracted connoisseurs from parts of the world. Textiles from India bear the imprint of the fine craftsmanship of Indian weavers. The skill of weaving with deft fingers, drawing patterns and creating designs, is an art which has been handed down through generations. These finest gossamer fabrics woven from yarns of superior finish are now being manufactured in India. The exquisite quality of Indian textiles has been hailed since ancient times. The sheer mystique of their textures have captured the imagination of royalty and commoners. It an appreciation and acceptance that it has met with the world over that makes the Indian Textile Industry what it is today – an industry having a strong socioeconomic significance in India’s national economy. It contributes around 5% GDP & accounts for over one-third of India’s total exports. It is also the largest foreign exchange earner. India has the largest variations in woven textiles, techniques, use of materials in the art of dyeing and designs expressing the cultural heritage of India. Every region has a distinct style of weaving which a connoisseur can distinguish. The textile production set-up in India today is the culmination of the tradition that has shown a remarkable ability to develop a grow. The Indian textile industry has a fairly complex structure. At one end of the spectrum is the hand spinning and hand weaving operations and on the other, a highly sophisticated, capital intensive and high speed manufacturing activity. Between the two extremes, the industry manufactures a staggering range of fabrics, furnishing, dress materials & floor covering, made-ups and garments. The process of economic liberalization which began in the last decade has seen the industry become globally competitive not only in terms of price but also quality. Modernization, has not been restricted to the installation of sophisticated processing machinery, wide width looms, autoconers, electronic clearers, splicers, etc, but also to the adaptation of quality systems conforming to ISO 9000 standards. The recent developments in the European markets on Eco-friendly textiles has sent the Indian industry into a flurry of activity to adapt itself to market requirements. Over the last 20 years or so there has been an all round growth in various sectors of textile industry with enormous capacity creation in the polyester, manmade fibre and production of raw material. India’s Textile industry has more or less kept pace with the world’s growth in this sector both in quantitative and qualitative terms. It has an abundant supply of quality raw material. Also, it has made considerable technological progress. In addition, a well established infrastructure for production, technically qualified manpower and skilled labour available at a considerable lower costs, material competence and marketing expertise are other favourable factors to meet the demand of the one billion strong home markets as well as a huge and growing volume of exports. The Indian textile industry is pre-dominantly cotton based with 70 per cent of the raw material consumed being cotton. It is composed of four major sectors, namely



• The mill made, also called the organized sector. • The handloom and power loom sector both being classified as decentralized sector and • The hosiery and garment sector.

Fabrics According to recent data, the total production of fabrics in all these sectors combined was of the order of 38,434 million sq.mtrs. With 59 percent of the total fabric production being contributed by the power loom sector followed by 18 percent by the handloom sector, 17 percent by the hosiery sector and the rest by the organized mill sector. India also produces a fabulous range of man-made fibres, polyester cotton and polyester- viscose blended fabrics. India offers and alluring range of made-ups items like scarves and stoles in exotic shades, intricate patterns and magical finishes. Renowned for achieving high quality standards in the art of weaving through centuries of experience, production on fabrics in different sectors is given below:

Production of Textiles in Different Sectors Million Sq. Metres

1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-2000 2000-01 Mill Sector Cotton 1159 1222 1238 1111 1105 1185 Blended 602 488 466 444 379 361 100%non-cotton 258 247 244 230 230 238 Total 2019 1957 1948 1785 1714 1784 Handloom Sector Cotton 62391 6441 6699 5861 6376 6710 Blended 18 52 69 111 119 165 100%non-cotton 945 963 835 820 857 850 Total 7202 7456 7603 6792 7352 7725 Power loom Sector Cotton 7014 7238 6652 5856 6291 6632 Blended 3137 3948 4481 4356 4613 5066 100%non-cotton 7050 8166 9818 10478 12283 12632 Total 17201 19352 20951 20690 23187 24331 Hosiery Sector Cotton 4488 4940 5403 5121 5217 5653 Blended 268 400 735 788 802 867 100%non-cotton 282 193 256 367 355 389



Total 5038 5533 6394 6276 6374 6909 All Sectors Cotton 18900 19841 19992 17949 18989 20180 Blended 4025 4888 5751 5699 5915 6459 100% non cotton 8535 9569 11153 11895 13725 14110 Khadi 431 515 545 559 575 575 Grand Total 31891 34813 37441 36102 39202 41324

Exports The textile industry occupies a position of prime national importance accounting for over one third of India’s total merchandise export making Indian textiles the largest single net foreign exchange earner for the country. India produces and exports textiles of diverse of kinds from a wide variety of fibres- natural fibres, regenerated cellulosic fibres and synthetic fibres. Indian exports for all textiles were of the order of US$ 11134.88 million in 1999-2000 as against against US$ 10536.35 million in 1998-1999 which represented an increase of about 5.7%. The major chunk in exports has taken place in the field of apparel and cotton textiles. Sector wise breakup of export performance for the last four years in given below :

Sectors 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-2000 Cotton textiles ( Cotton Yarns, Fabrics, made-ups) Silk textiles ( including RMG) Wool & Woollen Textiles (excluding knitwear & RMG) Man Made Fibre Textiles (excluding knitwear & RMT) Apparel ( all fibre RMG & Knitwear except silk )

3834.38

249.49

156.67

911.47

4762.10

3997.85

241.50

179.28

1013.17

4910.70

3892.35

245.85

161.37

968.38

5268.40

4076.79

293.60

146.68

1093.31

5524.50

Grand Total 9914.11 10342.50 10536.35 11134.88 Source : o/o the Textile commissioner Indian textiles known for captivating designs and colours are exported world over. However, main destinations for Indian textile based items have traditionally been USA, UK, Germany, Italy, Hong Kong, South Africa, Bangladesh, Japan, Belgium, France, Mauritius, Spain, Canada and Australia, & South America.



India and Its Textile Although the structure of the Indian economy has undergone a sea of change during the last five years, the industrial sectors including automobiles and consumer durables have registered impressive growth, the textile and apparel industries continue to be India’s largest industry segment, accounting for nearly a sixth of industrial output and a third of India’s total exports. Besides being the largest foreign exchange earner and the largest provider of employment (next to agriculture), the textile and apparel industries also contribute heavily to the government’s budget by way of taxes and tariffs. Exports of textiles and apparel together are now close to US$ 10 billion, and are growing at a steady rate of about 10-15% per annum. The organized part or the industry, comprising of large composite mills and spinning mills, alone provide employment to an estimated one million persons directly, while the weaving and processing sectors employ another 2-3 million. Including apparel and other business related to clothing, the employment potential of the industry is estimated at close to 10 million persons. Indian Cotton Textile Industry India’s exports of textiles and apparel have grown at a steady pace throughout the nineties. The same holds true for domestic consumption as well. The textile industry is one of the largest segments of the Indian economy accounting for over one fifth of total industrial production, and provides employment to approximately 15 million people. With over 9 million hectares under cotton cultivation and an annual crop of approximately 2771 million kg, India is one of the world’s largest reservoirs of this popular fibre. In addition the 80-odd cotton varieties of different descriptions being grown in India enables the industry to manufacture almost every conceivable count and construction of fabrics. With over 1543 spinning units, over 281 composite mills and approximately 1.72 million registered looms, the Indian cotton textile industry is a force to reckon with. Yarn Spinning Industry The spinning industry has an installed capacity of over 36.67 million spindles and approximately 434000 open end rotors. Such a large capacity Coupled with wide varieties of locally available cotton enables the industry to produce yarns to match any specification and count range. Extensive modernization throughout the industry has resulted in widespread installation of automatic winders, auto slavers, electronic clearers, splicers, two-for-one twisters, gas singeing, mercerizing and sophisticated testing equipment. This process has enabled the industry to gain a reputation globally resulting in continuously increasing demand for Indian cotton yarn in overseas markets. Perhaps, the strongest part of the industry is spinning. Spinners of cotton and blended yarns made substantial investments through the nineties, and the Indian spinning industry is perhaps the



strongest in the world. India continues to be the largest buyer of spinning machine in the world. Even in 1999, India purchased over one million spindles. India is currently the largest exporter of cotton yarn. In calendar 2000, exports were well over 500 million kg, representing about 45% of the cotton yarn produced in India. The Indian spinning industry produces yarn of global standards, and there are no weavers or knitters complaining about quality or even the prices of cotton or blended yarn. Nevertheless, the domestic availability of cotton is a big strength, and equally important is the fact that India produces the coarsest, as well as the finest cotton. The DCH-32 variety, which has a micronnaire value of as low as 2.8, has no competition when it comes to counts of 100s/ 12s Ne. Exports of cotton Yarn India exports all kinds of cotton yarn from the coarsest to the finest counts. The various kinds of yarn exported include auto-coned, electronically cleared, spliced, mercerized, gassed/singed, mélange, fancy yarn, singles or piled, greige, dyed and bleached, etc. In 1999-2000, India exported 554,95 million kg. Of yarn and sewing thread at a value of US$ 1542.94 million compared to 262.78 million kg. Worth US$ 1005.99 million in 1995-96. in 1999-2000, exports of cotton yarn and sewing thread constituted about 42% of the total exports of cotton textiles excluding handloom and garments). The major markets for Indian cotton yarn in 1999-2000 were Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Korea, Italy, Mauritius, Japan, Israel, Taiwan, Russia and Egypt. Fabric Manufacturing Industry Renowned for achieving high quality standards in the art of weaving through centuries of experience, the industry’s production of piece goods was estimated at 36,102 million square meters in 16998-99; of which 100% cotton accounted for about 49%. The installed capacity includes over 1,700,000 looms. This coupled with the extensive production facilities for yarn and the availability of cotton enables the industry to produce fabrics of almost every conceivable count and construction. Modernization has led to the installation of rapier, air-jet and water-jet looms, sophisticated knitting machines and state-of-the art processing machinery, which have all enabled the industry to offer fabrics in the variety of sophisticated finishes, in addition, the emphasis on good manufacturing practices and growing environmental consciousness has made the industry globally competitive. Exports of Fabrics The Indian industry has combined the virtuosity and skill of traditional craftsmen of yore with sophisticated machinery to produce exotic fabric for those who value the benefits of aesthetic appeal and superior apparel. Exports range from loom state to processed fabrics in various counts and constructions, from simple to sophisticated finishes in a variety of widths. The



industry’s produce is truly a treasure chest, for both the designer and the merchandiser. India also exports various kinds of fabrics for non-apparel use such as gauze cloth, canvas and parachute fabrics. In addition, India exports various kinds of knitted fabrics. In 1999-2000, India exported approximately 2.2 billion square meters of cotton fabrics worth approximately US$ 1,094.28 million as compared to 1.5 billion square meters valued at US$ 1,022.61 million in 1995-96. in 1999-2000, cotton fabrics constituted around 32% of India’s exports of cotton textiles (excluding handloom and apparel). The major global markets for Indian cotton fabrics were the U.S., U.K., Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Germany, Belgium, Dubai, Italy and Hong Kong. Exports of Cotton Made Ups India also manufactures and exports a wide variety of made-ups goods. The made ups articles exported from India range from the very simple to the most exquisite varieties of bed linen, toilet linen, table linen, kitchen linen and home furnishings. In 1999-2000, India exported cotton made-ups worth US$ 1009.64 million compared to us$ 631.26 million in 1995-96. The major markets for Indian cotton make-ups are the U.S., Germany, U.K., France, Belgium, Italy, Holland, Japan and Denmark. Home furnishing and floor covering industry turn out an array of exquisite products which enjoy worldwide reputation for their beauty, workmanship and individuality. Furnishings and floor covering including carpets constitute one of the important segments of India’s decentralized industrial sector Made Ups & Apparel The performance of made-ups items including bed sheets & quilts has been good on the global markets. Interestingly, the bulk of exports of made-ups are accounted for by reasonably well-integrated firms – they are either composite mills (spinning, weaving and processing) or they are firms having their own processing facilities. Thus, most of the bed sheets and related products exported by India are fabricated by those who also process the fabric. The strength lies not only in integration but also in the ability of offer very small lots in different designs and color ways. In the case of apparel, the domestic market has perhaps grown, to some extent, because of exports. Apparel firms that ventured out in global markets have expanded don the traditional custom tailors in most of large cities. Geographical Dispersion India’s textile and apparel industries are now quite dispersed throughout the country. Earlier, Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay), Ahmedabad and Coimbatore used to be large centers, but now there are several clusters. Cotton spinning is still largely concentrated in the Coimbatore district of the southern state of Tamil Nadu and its adjoining areas, which account for nearly a third of the installed spindles and about 40% of India’s cotton yarn production. However, cotton spinning is getting dispersed at a slow and steady pace. Sizeable investments in



cotton spinning have been made in the states of Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh, where a large number of ultra-modern spinning units, mainly catering to export markets, have come up in the last few years. These include well-known names like Amit Spinning, Maral Overseas, Soma Textiles, Arvind Cotspin and others. The northern state of Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan have also taken impressive strides in the spinning sector. Capacities of well-established groups like Vardhman and Nahar have risen substantially. Besides, a large number of small open-end spinning units have been set up in the cotton rich areas of Punjab and Haryana, mainly for catering to the rising demand from the big handloom center of Panipat, near New Delhi, which is famous for its cotton rugs and dhurries in Indian, as well as global markets. Some new units have com up in Gujarat (Gujarat Ambuja Cotspin) and Andhra Pradesh (Sanghi Spinners) also. The cotton weaving industry too has migrated to a considerable extent, and the output of power looms in the unorganized sector has risen handsomely in southern areas, mainly Coimbatore, Salem and Erode. In Maharashtra, Bhiwandi, Malegaon and Icchalkaranji are the major powerloom areas, Several modern weaving factories have come up in areas around New Delhi also. The processing industry has dispersed more rapidly than spinning and weaving in the last five years. Areas around New Delhi, now known as the National Capital Region, boost of nearly 100 modern textile-processing units. Several processing houses have been set up in Tamil Nadu also. Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh, has become a large producer of processed fabrics and even a remote town in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh now has about half –a-dozen processing unit. Rajasthan has a large capacity for the production of polyester / viscose blended yarn, manufactured on the short staple system. Among major manufacturers having units in Rajasthan are Rajasthan Spinning, Banswara Syntex, Modern Syntex, Jaipur Polyspin and Shree Rajasthan Syntex. Most of these mills came up in the late seventies and early eighties, and have steadily expanded their capacities in the last 10-15 year. Surat continues to be the center for filament fabrics, mainly saris and dress materials, consuming about three-fourths of all polyester and nylon filament, estimates of the number of looms in Surat vary from 300,000 to 400,000 and there are at least 200 mid-sized processing units, most of which are engaged in the manufacture of dyed and /or printed filament fabrics. Surat units generally use fine-denier filament yarn- 48 denier is perhaps the average count. Most of the processing units have two to four flat –bed-printing machines of four to six colors, and some have rotary screen printing machines also. Surat is slowly emerging as an important exporter of filament fabrics. In apparel, Tirupur and Ludhiana are the major knitwear producing centers, while Mumbai and New Delhi continue to be the largest manufacturers and exporters of woven garments. New Delhi specializes in more up market and specialized products like women’s dresses, while Mumbai is stronger in mass-produced items like men’s shirts. Bangladesh is growing fast in woven garments, but the rising share of knitted apparel in India’s total apparel exports has put Tirupur, near Coimbatore, in the first position.



Industrial Structure The organized part of the textile industry is comprised of 1,569 mills of which 1,294 are spinning mills and 275 are composite mills having spinning, as well as weaving facilities. India’s installed spinning capacity is currently estimated at over 31.75 million spindles, which is second only to China. In addition, there is an open end spinning capacity equivalent to about 226,000 rotors. The weaving capacity in the organized sector is estimated at 5,700 shuttle less looms and about 126,000 shuttle looms. In weaving and processing, however, the unorganized sector dominates the scenario with an estimated capacity of 1.2 million looms and a matching processing capacity. Number of processing units in the small and medium sectors is estimated at well above 5,000 units. In the case of processing, there have always been medium and large processors producing from 10,000 to 100,000 meter/day of fabrics.

Machinery with Indian Textile Processors

Name of Processing Machines Name of the Manufacturer s Preprocessing machine

Singeing • Benninger • Sanjay • Calico • Dornier • Swastik (Ahmedabad)

Desizing & washing • Harish JT-10

• T. Maneklal Bleaching System • Benninger’s continuous bleaching

range-Dimensa Merceriser • Scholl (Switzerland) • Bruckner • Dornior

• Dyeing machine

Jiggers • Henriksen Vacuum jiggers • Bruckner – (Germany) • Shakti • Bharat • Jupiter

Winches • Shakti • Jupiter

Jet Dyeing • Tong Geng (Taiwan) • Devrekher • Star



• Shakti • Mancklal • Hitex • Shivangi • Maneklal

Softflow Dyeing Machines • Then • Krsna • Brazzoli • Thies • Scalvos • Staff • Scholl • MCS (Italy) • Texfab (Mumbai)

Pad Batch Dyeing Machine • Kuster • Hitech • Alea Padder • Bhatt Brothers • Kalico, India • Thakur, India • Dhall, India

Pad Steam Range

• Sando, Japan

Yarn Dyeing Machine • Staffi • Loris • Bellini • Thies • Dalal • Fongs • Then ( Germany)

Package Yarn dyeing machine • Joginder Industries (Delhi) Yarn Steamers • ELGI Electric & Industries (Coimbatore) Beam Dyeing Machine • Dalal, India

Printing Machine Rotary Printing machine • Stormac

• Stork • Harish, India • Texprint, India • Lakshmi, India

Transfer Printing Machine • Screen Art, Skyline Enterprises • Tap-Tex Pvt. Ltd. • Texcon Prints • Mod Prints • Pushpanjali



• Blue Maro • United Commercial Agencies • AK.Enterprises

Flock printing Machine • Wet Processing Machine Ltd. (UK) • Electro Spray • Lemaire • Casati • Transprints • Bergers • Prochimir

Garment Processing Machine Garment Washing Machine • Milmore (Germany)

• Tonello (Italy) • Stefab (Indian) • Ramsons (Indian) • Hyatt (Indian) • Fabcare (Indian)

Finishing Machines Shearing & cropping • Brauma

• Kuang (Knits) • Lafer • Lamperti • Comnit • Vollenweider (Knits) • Chien Lun (Taiwan)

Pad Dry thermosol • Pad Dry thermosol ( by Bruckner ) • Thermofixing Range from : Monforts,

Germany R.F.Dryer • Strayfield

• Fongs • Texfab (India) • Bruckner

Stenter • Monforts, Germany • Primatex • SM • Artose • Manaklal • Harish • Sperotto Rimar • Hitech Stenmech • Dommisse Vaporam • IL-sung(k) • OBERMAIRE



• RUBE-TEX • Krantz

Sanforizing Machine OR Compressive shrinking

• Monforts, Germany • Morrison • Thakore Engineering • Dhall • Ramson

Decatising Machine • Staffi • Dalal • Sanjay • Gayatri •

Peaching Machine • Sperotto Rimar, Italy • Caru machine • Gematex • Bhatt Brothers • Embee (Ahmedabad)

Mercerising Machines • Jaeggli Meccalotessile – Italy • Thies • Lindaver Dornier • Mather & Platt • Indian Calico • Brazzoli. • MCS/Sperotto Rimer

Drying Range • Map • Santex Ltd • Il Sung • Tubetex • Shakti • Ruckh • Alliya •

Calendaring Machine • Mather & Platt • Weiss • Nova • Heliot • Longia • Bitexma • Santex • Febraro • Il-sunk(k)

Relaxed continuous dryer • Santex • Tubetex (Knits)



• Ruckh (Germany) Compactor • Santex

• Tubetex (Knits) • Ferraro • Longia • Sperotto Rimar • Ruckh • Monti (Italy) • Heliot • Fabcon

Hydro extractor • Santax • Heliot

Teflon Coating • Kranz • Il-sung

Steamer

• H.T. steamer from Arioli, Italy • Texfab

Ager or Curing Range • Monforts, Germany • Steel Fabricator

Laboratory Dispensing & Solution making System

• Data colour International ,USA

Colour Matching software • Data Colour International, USA Inspection Machines • EVS I-Tex system offering customers I-

Tex Physical Laboratory • James H. Heal

• Atlas, Germany • Paramount Scientific Instruments Ltd.,

India • Innovative Engitech, India • Prolific, India • Mega Tech, India

Pilot Sample Dyeing & Finishing plant

• Mathis, Switzerland

The Processing Sector

• Mills in India are composite units, which have all the process right from yarn manufacturing to fabrics to finishing of the fabrics. Quite a number of fabric manufacturers have in house processing units, which includes garment washing, printing & dyeing units. This is the general trend in the northern & southern India. Big companies like Maral Overseas ( Indore ), Vardhaman Group ( Ludhiana ), Nahar Group ( Ludhiana ), Malwa ( Ludhiana), Trident Group, Bhilwara Group, Century Mills ( Bombay ), Paragan Textiles, Siya Ram Silk Mills ( Bombay ), Hindustan Spinning & Weaving Mills ( Mumbai ), Ashima Group ( Ahemedabad), Morarjee Spg. & Weav. Mills ( Mumbai ), Arvind Mills ( Ahmedabad ), Rajasthan Spg. & Wea. Mills, Oswal Cotton Mills ( Nahar Group ), Grasim & Reliance have the state of the art dyeing & finishing units housing all the latest machinery



• A survey conducted revealed that most of the big processors as well as small process houses have a combination of Indian as well as imported machinery. There are a number for processors in & around Delhi who do job work for exporters & also for the domestic market. The processing capacity ranges between 2 - 50 tones/day depending on the capacity of the plant. A major chunk of the machinery operating in the Indian Industry is Italian, followed by Korean, German, Taiwan & Japanese, and England machinery.

• Consequently, yarn dyeing has started growing in a big way, perhaps yarn-dyeing machines are one part of the textile machinery industry, which has not really suffered because of the slump in demand for textile machinery in general. Most of the large firms have set up their captive yarn dyeing facilities. Many of the spinners have also started setting up yarn processing facilities (bleaching, mercerizing, singeing and dyeing), examples being GTN Textiles and the ATL group. Even in the case of exports, companies like Salem Textiles have stared pushing processed yarn.

• Yarn dyeing has also received a big boost from the rising share of knits in the overall production of textiles or domestic consumption, as well as exports. In fact, the share of knits in apparel exports has risen to a level of about 45%, through knits’ total share in production is perhaps still at a level of about 18-20% only. However, exports of products like knitted bed sheets and socks are also rising, resulting in an increasing demand for dyed yarn. In the domestic market, cotton socks have come back in a big way and nylon is generally viewed as a cheaper product.

• CAD systems are being installed routinely by textile manufacturers. Color matching

systems too are growing in numbers.

• The EPCG scheme has attracted several denim projects like Arvind, Mafatlal, Raymond and KG Denim, besides integrated spinning, weaving and processing projects like Morarjee Brembana and Pasupati Fabrics. At least a dozen units have been set up under the EPCG scheme for processed knitted fabrics, some of which also produce knitwear. Examples in this category include names like Maral Overseas (which originally started as a cotton spinning EOU), Sunanda Industries of the Mafatlal Group, Asian Alloys and Royal Industries. Incidentally, exports of cotton yarn by spinning mills importing machines under the EPCG scheme are also outside the purview of quantitative restraints and a large number of spinning mills have taken advantage of this for circumventing restraints on exports.

• The feedback given by the industry is that the right combination of technology & fibre

choice for manufacturing fabric will hold the success of any finishing unit. Any kind of compromise on the quality parameters would result in substantial amount of losses with defective dyeing. The industry says that today the profit margins are so thing that in knits defectively processed fabrics are less than 1% & in wovens less than 1%. There is no margin of any errors occurring at any stage of wet processing.

• There are no mills in Delhi but around Delhi there are a few like Pasupati Spinners. Some of them

are 100% EOU units. Some of the leading processors are, Shivalik Group (NOIDA & Faridabad),



Indotex (Faridabad), AY PRINTS, Creative Dyeing (Faridabad ), Palm Prints (Faridabad ), Luthra Dyeing & Printing Mills, Colorplus Dyeing Ltd. ( NOIDA ), Orphic Dyeing & Printing ( Faridabad ), Hindustan Dyeing, KK Kohli ( Faridabad ), M. Ratish ( Faridabad ), GD International ( Delhi ), Friends Dyes & Processors (Delhi), Shiv Enterprises ( Faridabad ), Bee-Tex Dyeing ( Okhla ), Dyes India Mfg. Co., ( Lajpat Nagar ), Diana Organisers ( Faridabad ), Sonia Textiles ( Faridabad ), Attar Filte (Panipat). Export units like SHAHI Exports also have imported machinery for finishing of wovens as well as knit fabrics. Big brands like Benetton get the job work done from small processors.

• High –quality dyed cotton yarn is simply not available to small and mid-sized weavers and

processors. Most of the producers of cotton shirting are having their captive yarn dyeing facilities. Perhaps eventually a mid-range segment would emerge but it is likely to take quite some time, largely because the marketing of dyed yarn involves enormous inventories and managerial skills.

• With a denim capacity of over 200 million meters built from scratch in just about a decade.

India has made impressive progress in this segment. Since the advent of Arvind Mills into the denim market in the mid-eighties, several other players have entered the field – KG Denim, Ashima Syntex, Gujarat Ambuja, Amtex industries, Blue Blend, Bhwani Synthetics and others. The relatively new players are Raymond Calitri, Century Textiles, Mafatlal Industries and Suryalakshmi cotton, of which Century is export oriented. Arvind Mills is the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world. Until now, Indian denim has concentrated on the European and South & East Asia markets. Today, Indian denim is according increasing attention to the U.S. market as is evidenced by the usage of rope – dyeing technology by Modern Denim, Arvind Mills and the yet to be commissioned Malwa Industries. Out of a total capacity of 110 million meters, Arvind Mills has a rope dyeing capacity of 40 million meters.

State of the art technology in India

The Arvind Mills Limited , India

The Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of the Rs 20 billion (US$ 550 million) Lalbhai Group. Arvind Mills has technology from Germany and Switzerland. Manufacture in India and Mauritius.

Shirting Division

Shirting fabric can be defined by fibre (100% cotton, CVC, PC, 100% polyester, viscose blends, linen blends, etc.) value addition ( coarse v/s fine, single yarn v/s doubled yarn, piece dyed v/s yarn dyed, plain v/s stripes/checks/dobby, normal v/s special surface finish) and by wearing habit (formal v/s casual, classical v/s fashion, dress vs leisure).

The bulk of the world market is concentrated in USA, Europe and Japan. The largest segments of the market internationally are cotton - (by fabric) which have a world market share of 44%, and dress shirts - (by wearing habit) that have a market share of 47%. Since international customers are highly demanding, the technology required is complex.



complex.

There product range covers fabric for both dress and casual shirts. They make Poplins, Chambrays, Pinpoint Oxfords, Twills, Classical Oxfords, Dobbys, Cords, Herringbones, Piques, Cottons, Chief Value Cottons, Stripes, Checks, Indigo Oxfords, Indigo Twills, Fil a Fils, Whites and Solid Colours. These are used by almost every leading shirt maker in the world, to make branded shirts, dress shirts, casual wear shirts ... you name it.

All the premium brands - Allen Solly, Arrow, Benetton, Color Plus, Louis Philippe, Mexx, Park Avenue, Van Heusen, Weekender and Zodiac - make their shirts from Arvind shirtings. Domestic sales account for 60% of Arvind's shirting turnover.

FIBRE: 100% Cotton

COUNTS: 30s, 40s, 50s, 2/30s, 2/50s, 2/80s, 2/100s

WEAVES: Plain, Twill, Oxford, and Dobby

PRODUCTS: Solids, Yarn-Dyed Stripes, Checks, Fil-a-Fils and Chambrays

Denim Division

Arvin manufactures denim with state-of-the-art mills in India and Mauritius, and have the largest number of O.E. Rotors in India and the largest installation of Hacoba Warper, S+M Dyeing & sizing range, Monfort shrinking range and Tsudakoma airjet looms in the world. Our latest Morrison Rope dyeing range corroborates our technology leadership in denim manufacturing.

They make over 150 varieties of speciality denim - stretch, coloured, faded, streaked, mercerized, striped, checked, ring, brushed, soft, speedwash, silver streak and overdyed. From small pieces to large 300 metre rolls, from 4.0 oz to 16.0 oz, from good old classic to ever-popular indigo blue 14 1/2 oz. open end - we can offer you denim in just about any weight, weave and wash.

In India, they command a market share of approximately 72% - 5 times that of the next largest player. Our denim is used to make India's leading jeans brands - Flying Machine, Killer, Levi's, Numero Uno, Pepe, Texas Jeans, UFO and Wrangler. "Made from original Arvind denim" is used by all the leading local jeans manufacturers as an indicator of high quality and authenticity.

Knits Division

They have entered into a technical collaboration with Alamac, USA, a subsidiary of the $1.6 billion textile giant West Point Stevens, USA, to manufacture high value and high fashion knits. Alamac has an outstanding reputation for design leadership.



The collaboration is to set up an fully integrated knit fabric plant near Ahmedabad in Gujarat.The plant will cover an area of 125,000 sq. metres, and employ about 500 people. As with Alamac's own facilities, all operations - spinning, knitting, dyeing, finishing - will be under one roof.

A high-capacity, fully-integrated plant

As a direct outcome of the collaboration, a fully integrated knit fabric plant is being set up near Ahmedabad in Gujarat. With an investment of US $ 50 million, the plant will produce mercerised fabric in both tubular and open widths.

The plant is expected to have a capacity of 16 tonnes per day of cotton knits, 11 tonnes per day of piece dyed fabric and 5 tonnes per day of yarn-dyed fabric. All operations - spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing - will be fully integrated. This will result in shorter lead times even for large orders and better co-ordination of the entire process, from design to production.

Dyeing Technologies

THEN -- Comat Yarn Dyeing Machines, Sclavos Fabric Dyeing Machine, Data Colour Matching System, Processing Lab, Standardised Recipes and Process Cycles.

Finishing Machines

Dornier Circular Singeing Machine, Dornier Mercerising Machine, Santex Fabric Finishing Machines, Tubetex Fabric Finishing Machines, Open Width and Tubular Finishing. Dornier Circular Singeing Machine, Dornier Mercerising Machine, Santex Fabric Finishing Machines, Tubetex Fabric Finishing Machines, Open Width and Tubular Finishing.

The Vardhman Group

The Vardhman Group has many firsts to its credit in India : It has India's first textile company to be awarded ISO 9002/IS 14002certification.The largest producer and exporter of yarns and grey woven fabrics from India. The largest producer of cotton tyre cords and second largest producer of Sewing Threads in India..

Vardhman's leading position in India is reflected in an equally strong international presence with total exports crossing the $ 76 million mark in 1997-98.



Vardhmans' products have found acceptance in both domestic and international markets for

• wide range of yarns in cotton, acrylic and polyester.

• an incredible count range from 10s to 100s in singles and multifolds.

• technical tie-ups with specialists world wide.

• state-of-the-art machinery from Switzerland, Germany, Japan and Korea.

Vardhman is the largest producer of dyed yarns in India today. Vardhman has a wide range of specialised Azo-free dyed and gassed mercerised yarns in cotton, polyester and acrylic. Available in pure as well as blended form, they come in a wide variety of shades and lots, justifying Vardhman's label.

Technical tie-ups with specialists worldwide and state-of-the-art machinery from Switzerland, Germany, Japan and Korea ensure high standards of quality.

Cone DyedYarn High quality carded & combed autoconed yarns on cone with tail end.

Rangoli 100% cotton melange yarns on cone with tail end

Gassed Mercerised and dyed cotton yarn

100% cotton gassed, mercerised yarns in grey, white and dyed forms.

Rainbow 100% Fibre dyed cotton yarn Paragon Fibre-dyed polyester cotton blended yarn Harmony Fibre-dyed polyester cotton melange yarn Turbo Fibre dyed acrylic cotton blended yarn Galaxy 100% top dyed acrylic wool yarn Hank Dyed Acrylic Dyed, bulked acrylic yarn. Daffodil Tow dyed acrylic bulked yarn. Vardhman Knitting Yarn

Hand-Knitting Yarns available in Hank/Lachhi/Ball form.

Technology

Preparatory Rieter- Switzerland. Trutzschler from Germany

Pre - Spinning Rieter - Switzerland



Hava shoki- Japan Toyoda - Japan

Spinning Rieter - Switzerland Tyoda - Japan

Post spinning Schlafhorst-Germany and Murata-Japan

Doubling Volkman-Germany, Leewha-Korea

Mercerising

Jaeggli Meccalotessile – Italy

Dyeing Hisoka - Japan

Worsted (Gilling & Preparatory m/c) Schlumberger - France

Worsted Spinning TestingFacilities FibreAnalysis AFIS,HVI-USTERYarnEvenness UsterUT-3,UT-4YarnStrength UsterTensorapidUTRYarnAppearance ASTMBoardsYarn Faults : Uster Classimat

Sewing Thread:

Spinning Rieter - Switzerland

Dry/wet Doubling and Gassing Swiss Technology

Mercerising/Dyeing Italian Technology

Finishing/Packaging United Kingdom

Industrial Threads:

Pre-twisting Untwisting Hamel (Switzerland)

Dyeing Finishing United Kingdom/Italy

Technology

Weaving Preparatory Benninger (Switzerland)

Air jet weaving Machine Tsudakoma (Japan) Picanol (Belgium)

Rapier Weaving Machine Picanol (Belgium)



Future Plans A state-of-the-art fabric process house is expected to be comissioned by end 1999 with a production capacity of 50,000 metres per day. The know how is being provided by Tokai-Senko of Japan. The product range will include :

Products Finishes

Piece Dyed Cotton range for shirting and bottom weights

Coloured Woven fabrics

Full Bleached fabrics

• Bio-Enzyme

• Wrinkle Free

• Peach finish

• Water Repellant

The Group started exploring export markets in 1986-87 and has since crossed the $ 76 million mark.

Fabric Processing Continuous Open Width Pre treatment Range from : Sando, Japan Mercerising Range from : Sando, Japan Continuous Dyeing Range from : Monforts, Germany with Padder from Kusters, Germany Pad Steam Range from : Sando, Japan H.T. steamer from Arioli, Italy Thermofixing Range from : Monforts, Germany Stenters from : Monforts, Germany Curing Range from : Monforts, Germany Shrinking Range from : Monforts, Germany Sueding Range from Sperotto Rimar, Italy Computer Colour matching from Data Color USA



Complete Range of Testing Equipments manufactured by Atlas, Geermany & James Heal, UK Single End Sizing Machine from Yamada, Japan Pilot Sample Dyeing & Finishing plant from Mathis, Switzerland

Bombay Dyeing

Bombay Dyeing has two main streams of business. Textile is a dominant activity for which the company has advanced facilities. Each of Bombay Dyeing's five manufacturing facilities is of International standards. Weaving facilities include technology from world leaders such as Sulzer.Bombay Dyeing has 519 Sulzer Projectile Machines in widths of 130", 142", 153" and 169". In addition the company has 123 Sulzer Airjet Machines in widths of 110"( with tucked in selvedge) and 75" (with fringe selvedge). The Ruti Automatic Looms ranging in widths of 40" to 110" totaling 1,260 are gradually being phased out and substituted by the latest in weaving technology. The Spinning and Winding facilities are equipped with Schlafhorst Autocore Rotors, Auto Corner Winding Spindles and Schweiter CA - 11 Spindles with an installed capacity of 135,336 Ring Spindles. Today the daily production at Bombay Dyeing exceeds 300,000 meters of fabrics. Facilities are available to produce bleached fabric upto 120",dyed and printed fabric upto 98" and grey fabric upto 124". In processing we have also modernized with state of the art technology such as Kusters open width Bleaching ranges, Kusters Twin Jigger Dyeing machines & Babcock Soaping range. Also we are equipped with fabrics upto 120’’.

Sales turnover of the Textile division is nearly equally divided between National and International markets. Bombay Dyeing, exports to advanced countries such as USA, countries in European Union, Australia and New Zealand. The company has won the SRTEPC and TEXPROCIL Gold Trophies for its outstanding export performance for poly cotton blended fabrics and made-ups for the year 1998-99. A unique strength of Bombay Dyeing in India is a Distribution Chain consisting of 600 plus exclusive shops spread all over the country. Range Dobby & Fine Count made up : Bombay Dyeing is Indias leading producer of dobby & fine counts fabrics ultimately stitched as made ups such as sheets sets, top of bed items like duvey



covers & shams. In yarn counts ranging from 40’s to 80’s & thread counts from 250 to 400 in plain, dobby & satin weaves. Flannel Sheetings & Made Ups Bombay Dyeing India’s largest producer of bleached, dyed & printed flannelette sheeting in widths upto 94’’ ( 240cm ) & made ups. Downproof Shells & Comforters Made from yarn counts from 40’s to 80’s, thread count 230 to 350 in plain, dobby & satin weaves, meeting international standards, of quality ( OKOTEX )& air permeability. Our speciallity besides making finest Downproof fabrics, lies in stitching products in various styles as per our customers requirement. We make fillers & distributors who finally sell through large departmental stores. Yarn Dyes & Made ups Polyester Cotton Sheeting Poly cotton Drills Satin Bed Sheets Manufactured from superior combed & spliced 40’s, 50’s & 60’s yarns with facility to print upto 240 cms wide & 10 collors. Cotton Sheetings Bull Denims/Drills/Twills/ & Chinos Shoe Linings & Duck Fabrics Satin Furnishings Towels Soft superabsorbent towels produced in weights of 360 gms to 510gms/sgmtr. Huckaback towels & toelling with name weaving facility. Table tops & Napkins

Manufactured in 14s Momie cloth. In finished widths upto 90’’( 229cm ) Garment Processing Sector

• Nahar Spinning Mills (Ludhiana ) has the state of the art technology for garment washing. There are some units which have in-house Garment washing units like, TCNS (NOIDA), Orient Fashions ( Gurgaon ), KK Kohli ( Faridabad), Gupta Exim ( Faridabad ), Anish India Exports ( Gurgaon ), Mahajan Overseas ( Panipat ), Exotique Exports. Some processors in Ludhiana are Sunshine



Dyeing, Om Processors, Anoor Processors, & Nageshwar Printers. The biggest in India are Color Club(Delhi ), Color Impex,( Delhi ), Cotex Dyeing. These garment processors also work for the domestic brands. Shivam exports (Delhi ) has its own garment washing units & dyeing units. Companies like TCNS have garment washing unit, which is totally controlled by fully computerised machines.

The Natural Dyes in India

• India also specialises in dyeing and printing with vegetable dyes. There are many processing centers in Rajasthan & Gujrat Weave N Print, Poornima Handicrafts, Sohanya Hand Printers. There are two villages in the state of Rajasthan called Bagru & Sanghaner where each & every household is involved in dyeing & printing with vegetable dyes. Printing of dress materials, saris, scarves, bed covers, & table linen is done for the domestic as well as the export. India also produces a lot of Indigo dyed & printed fabric. A lot of fabric is exported from India with traditional block prints in hand painted & printed stuff. Haute Couture designers here get their fabrics printed from traditional crafts men & combine it with traditional Indian embroideries to give a very rich look.

The Traditional Resist Dyeing Techniques prevalent in India

• The tie & dye technique of resist printing has been practiced here for ages. There are traditional craftsmen, & the craft is handed over from generation to generation. Some of the techniques have such intricate patterns that it is difficult for any one to understand the te chnique with which these intricate patterns are produced. States such as Orissa, Gujrat & Andhra Pradesh have there own traditional patterns which can be distinguished from each other. Mostly indigenous developed receipes & dyes are used to dye the fabric . The fastness properties may not be so good but the patterning & colors achieved are exclusive to the region in which they are produced. These are some of the traditional crafts prevalent in India since centuries.

Block Printing in India

• Thirty five kilometers towards west from Jaipur is Bagru, and 15 km towards south in Sanganer, the prominent traditional centers of dyeing and printing.

• The use of chemical colours and the new and odd dimensions to textile printing. Sanganer

has also remained a prominent center for textile printing. However the main distinguishing feature in Sanganer and Bagru prints is that the Sanganerwork is done on white ground mainly. Sanganer printing is done on with wax resist dabu (mein) while in Bagru the earth dabu is used and prints on indigo, red, blue or yellow coloured ground with hrda work is usually done.

• Its traditional processes of hand block printing on textiles with rich natural colours have

been known for many centuries. With the attraction of foreign buyers for the traditional hand block printed textiles, this village hums with much activity today, supplying exquisite printed materials for exports.

• The prints are essentially in two colours viz red and black, the dyers and printers of Bagru

adopt their own traditional methods in preparing, printing, dyeing and printing cloth. Dyeing is done to impart a colour to the ground fabric, as also to bring out different colouring effect in the printed motifs, formerly natural dyes, madder, indigo, pomengrante rind, tumeric etc.



were being used as colouring materials. For the past years alizarine has been introduced in place of madder. Natural indigo has been replaced by synthetic indigo. Direct colour like congo red is used for brightening the red colours and pink shades, also direct yellow is employed to give yellow imprints.

• Bagru is situated on the banks of the Sanjaria river which has a perennial water stream

and stretches of sand banks which was aptly suitable for the purpose of printing and dyeing. The production technique and the traditional motif have undergone a change over the years. The entire population of the chippas who were engaged in the production of the local varieties of printed fabrics mostly used for fadats, lugdis, angochhas, bichaunis, rezais etc. is now engaged in the sophisticated production of yardage for dress materials, sarongs, carves etc. used by consumers in India and abroad.

• All the same the basic technique and colors and to a large extent motifs remain unchanged

and unaffected through all these centuries and theses make the bagru prints spectacularly different distinctive and individual and a highly specialized craft.

• Several modes of printing are to be seen in Rajasthan today, direct block printing, resist

(daboo) printing. Khari printing and the modern method of screen printing. In block printing an extensive variety of butas and colours are displayed. Gold and Silver printing is centuries old. Every caste and religious has its own varieties of butas. Colours were obtained from vegetables and metals as per their local availability. In daboo printing, the material used are largely wax, lcay an resins. The daboo is used in order to resist parts of fabric with mud paste which can be removed after dyeing by washing. The daboo method or ‘jha’ is an art by itself, which is said to open the food gates of printing development.

• Red and Black are two main colours used all over the state. Both these colours are given

multiple shades through dyeing. AS the dyeing is from vegetables colours, delight is both visual and sensorial, appeals as it does to sight touch and smell.

• The block printed cottons of Sanganer near Jaipur have been renowned for their precious

pattern and colouring for at least two hundred and fifty years although he industry is of obscure origin it may owe its expertise to the ancient printing tradition of Gujarat or Malwa. Very little of earlier work survives and what does, cannot be dated any earlier than the second half of the 18th century. During the colonial period Sanganer appears to have assumed a pre-eminent position among block printing centers of India, a status it commands even today.

• In contrast to the courtly sensibility of the Sanganer work of Bagru prints are deeply rooted

in the local folk tastes and culture. Their limited designs and colours range is associated with traditional caste and custom bound and uses of the area.

Man Made Fibre Industry Surat Industry, Gujrat



• There are around 400 process houses in Surat alone. Surat specializes in processing of man made fibre fabrics like rayons & polyesters.

Surat is very famous for producing variety of viscose & polyester fabrics. In Surat there are not many large mills where yarns are processed weaves & finished. The weaving industry is mainly a component industry like a cottage industry where power looms are installed & controlled by a group of families. These families are very rich monetary wise & have the capacity to install machinery fore the industry. These groups do not produce in large quantities max. they weave between 3000-5000 mtrs. These families do not have direct contact with the exporters as the middlemen or contractors control & play a vital role for this industry. These middlemen take the initiative to book orders from the exporters & distribute them to different families for production. Whatever monetary transactions occur is controlled by this middlemen & exporters have no say. They are responsible for timely deliveries of export orders.

The fabric produced in Surat are : Fabric Yarn Count Reed Pick Rayon 2/40s*2/40s 56*60 Dyeing Quality Rayon 2/40s*2/40s 48*52 Printing Quality Poly Georgette 6 ½ - 10 ½ Kg Dyeing Quality Poly Georgette 6 ½ - 8 Kg Poonam Printing Quality Viscose Georgette 6 - 12 Kg Dyeing Quality & Printing Quality Moss Crepe 9 Kg Dyeing Quality & Printing Quality TEXO Linining 7 - 8 Kg (Tex*Tex, Roto*Tex) Dyeing Quality Micro Poly 8, 10, 14 Kg Dyeing Quality & Printing Quality Poly Viscose 10Kg

In Surat one will find the best processing houses for dyeing & printing. The main reason is that the water is very fertile. There are many processing houses under the small scale sector & the quality is good for polyester fabrics. These are some of the popular dyeing & printing mills of Surat : Zenith Mills for Dyeing & Printing Luthra Dyeing & Printing Mills Prafulla Dyeing & Printing Mills Parag Dyeing & Printing Mills Parag Sarees

Commercial use of Natural Dyes • Alps Industries (Gaziabad), specializes in dyeing & printing with vegetable dyes. The

speciality of this unit is that it dyes naturally colored cotton in different mordants to produce shades on naturally colored cotton. Alps has an R&D cell continuously researching vegetable dyes. They have been successfully able to produce these colors on synthetic fibres.



Hand Screen Printing

• There are a number of hand screen printing units having printing tables of 16- 40 meters. This kind of printing is used for printings small yardage’s like silk, wool fabric & cotton. The mill sector will only take an order if it is more than 2000 meters. This is one reason why there are a number of units which specialise in hand screen printing at small scale level & also it has the freedom of printing many colors. Also sampling & strike offs are generally done on hand screens. Almost all kinds of dyes are used by the industry but the most popular like in any part of the world is reactive dyes, vat dyes, pigment dyes, disperse etc. Ahmedabad specializes printing with Procion Dyes, Pigments & Discharge Printing & the results obtained are comparable with any part of the world. Ahmedabad has composite units like Arvind Mills, Bharat Vijay Mills, Chiripal & also has the Cottage industry for Processing. Like Surat Ahmedabad also has the job workers.

• There is one company who is doing research & development in collaboration with

International companies called TEXCO (Gurgaon ), which helps the industry in digital printing with pigments, acids & reactives etc. All the details of which are not disclosed by the company.

• There are Auto labs-Laboratory Dispensing & Solution Making Systems by Data color

International, to meet the demand by automating the testing recipes at a fraction of a second & it does this with great precision. The Data match Textile Color Matching Software by Data color International is for color formulation & correction, which is fast effective & accurate. This is used by textile printers to do matching & batch correction. Data Colors premier color measurement instrument, The Spectraflash 600 quickly established itself as the industry benchmark for consistent high-resolution color measurement. Today, its pulsed Xenon light source provides excellent precision measuring even dark or highly saturated colors.

• The processing & finishing technologies required for Tencel are also being imparted to the

companies interested in this fibre fabric. Tencel has its office in Mumbai, helping to impart technical know-how to processors.

• A lot of Denim washing takes place in India also which includes mechanical & chemical finishes.

• The industry has a few plants of wrinkle resistant finishes. Wrinkle resistant trousers are becoming

popular in the Indian market.

Mahajan Overseas, Panipat Color Plus, India Nahar Group Arvind Mills Siyaram Silk Mills etc.l

• Antimicrobial finishes, Ultra Vio let Finishes, flame retardant & other finishes like water repellency

are a part of the finishing industry. A study of Technical capacity of Processing Houses in India 1. Ambica Tex Print (P) Limited



Ahmedabad ,Gujarat Company Profile : Ambica Tex Print (P) Limited, promoted by Mr. Dipak J. Sheth, was established in 1994 as a process house for woven and knit fabrics. The process house, located at Ahmedabad, Gujarat, has a dyeing capacity of 10 million metres and a printing capacity of 6 million metres per annum. The unit is equipped with dyeing, bleaching, printing, mercerising, decatising and rolling facility for processing 100% cotton, viscose, polyester and blended fabrics. The unit is capable of processing fabrics in a variety of finishes including mercerised, wrinkle free, sanforised, washed, decatised, polished etc. The dye house is equipped with the latest soft folw dyeing machines, jigger, winches and jet dyeing while the printing machine capable of printing fabric upto 10 colours. Ambica, besides undertaking job work on behalf of garment and home textile exporters also exports nearly 30% of its production in the international market through merchant exporters and agents. Capital Employed : Rs. 20 million (US$ 0.46 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 10 million metres/annum Printing : 6 million metres/annum Employees : 150 Machine Profile : Jigger Indigenous -

Pad Batch Dyeing Indigenous - Jet Dyeing Indigenous - Soft Overflow Dyeing Indigenous - Winches Indigenous - Stenter Indigenous - Decatising Gayatri 01 Flat Bed Screen Printing Indigenous 02

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, 100% Acrylic, Polyester Cotton, Polyester/Wool . MACHINE DETAILS: Desizing & Washing, Continuous Bleaching /Dyeing, Mercerising, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Stenter, Decatising, Flat Bed Printing 2.Diamond Textile Mills (P) Limited Ahmedabad,Gujarat Company Profile : Diamond Textile Mills (P) Limited was established in 1981 by Mr. Narendra Bhai Patel, as a process house for dyeing and printing of woven, non-woven and knitted fabrics. The promoters, after taking over a sick unit D.T. Textiles (name changed to Diamond Textile Mills (P) Limited) have established themselves as one of the quality process houses to meet the requirement of both domestic and international market. The process house, located at Ahmedabad, Gujarat is equipped with imported and indigenous machines comprising of Mather & Platt merceriser, Staffi soft overflow, Devrekha Jet dyeing, Dhall sanforising, Stormac rotary (upto a maximum of 8 colours), Texprint flatbed screen printing machines etc. The unit has a dyeing and printing capacity of 60 million metres per annum for processing 100% cotton,



viscose, polyester and blended fabrics. The fabric processed by the unit is available in a variety of finishes like mercerised, wrinkle free, sanforised, washed, decatised and polished. At present, Diamond is exporting 50 % of its fabrics through merchant exporters and agents to Dubai, Turkey, Mauritius and African countries. The company is planning to diversify into garment manufacturing as well as promote its own direct exports of fabrics. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 750 million (US$ 17.44 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 30 million metres/annum Printing : 30 million metres/annum Employees : 500 Machine Profile : Singeing Calico 01

Desizing & Washing Range Harish 01 Mercerising Mather & Platt 01 Jet Dyeing Devrekha 09 H.P. Dryer Indigenous 01 Stenter Harish 02 Decatising Indigenous 01 Rotary & Flatbed PrintingStormac/Texprint 07

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, 100% Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton 3.Omkar Group Ahmedabad, Gujarat Company Profile : Omkar Group was promoted by Mr. Champalal Agarwal, having long standing experience in the textile industry. The group was formally established in 1980 with the incorporation of Omkar Textile Mills Limited, a process house located at Ahmedabad, in the state of Gujarat. The group diversified into processing to capitalise on the growing demand for high quality processed fabrics. Other group companies include Gopi Synthetics Limited, established in 1984 and Alok Synthetics Limited, established in 1990. The second unit of Omkar Textile Mills Limited was established in 1993 and is one of the few units in India with the capacity to produce finished fabric upto 280cms width. In 1992, the group established Omkar Exports (a unit of Omkar Overseas Limited, a government recognised trading house), a fully integrated and automated processing unit capable of processing fabrics as per the customer specifications and a state-of-the-art stitching unit to manufacture and export madeups. The group's process house has an annual dyeing capacity of 45 million metres and a printing capacity of 45 million metres for woven, non woven and knit fabrics in 100% cotton, polyester and synthetic. The process house is equipped with state- of-the-art imported and indigenous machines offering a wide range of processing facilities. At present, Omkar Group exports nearly 25% of its production capacity to USA, UK, Switzerland, Finland, Africa, EEC and the Middle East. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 1500 million (US$ 34.88 million) Installed Capacity : Processing : 90 million metres/annum (Dyeing and Printing)



Employees : 2000 Export Quantity : 25% Export Direction : EEC, African countries,Middle East & USA Machine Profile : Singeing Calico 01

Desizing & Washing T.Maneklal 04 Jigger Indigenous 15 Pad Batch/Jet Dyeing Devrekha/Star 14 Calendering Imported 06 Stenter Primatex/Artose 08 Decatising Sanjay 03 Rotary Printing Lakshmi/Stormac 05

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, 100% Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton , . MACHINE DETAILS: Singeing, Desizing & Washing, Continuous Bleaching /Dyeing, Mercerising, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Stenter, Raising, Shearing & Cropping, Decatising, Calendering, Steamer, Table Printing, Flat Bed Printing, Rotary Printing, Roller Printing, Colour Fixing (Ager) 4.Mukesh Industries Limited Ahmedabad, Gujarat Tel : 91 79 2162789, 5892550-54 Fax : 91 79 5830572 Email : [email protected] Company Profile : Mukesh Industries Limited (MIL) was established in 1990 by Mr. D.N. Aggarwal, as a process house for dyeing, processing and finishing of woven fabrics. The promoter, Mr. D.N. Aggarwal has a long standing experience in trading of finished fabrics. Mukesh Industries' processing unit, located at Isanpur, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, is one of the leading process house with a dyeing capacity of 7.5 million metres and a printing capacity of 20 million metres for woven and knit fabrics. The processing unit is equipped with desizing, washing, mercerising, jet dyeing, jigger, 4 chamber stenter, rotary screen printing, flatbed screen printing, colour fixing machines etc. MIL is also the only processing unit to have a fully integrated embossing machine. The unit is capable of processing fabrics in 100% cotton viscose, polyester, acrylic and polyester cotton and offers variety of finishes including wrinkle free, embossed, sanforised, mercerised, decatised and calendered. MIL primarily undertake job work on behalf of garment exporters based in Delhi and Mumbai. The unit also exports nearly 35% of its processed fabric through merchant exporters and agents and is currently looking into the possibility of establishing its direct export of processed fabrics. As a diversification plan, MIL is also in the process of establishing a spinning unit in Ahmedabad in the near future. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 240 million (US$ 5.58 million) Capital Employed : Rs. 80 million (US$ 1.86 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 7.5 million metres/annum



Printing : 20 million metres/annum Employees : 500 Machine Profile : Jigger Shakti 16

Pad Batch Dyeing Dhall 01 Jet Dyeing Shakti 04 Stenter Dhall/Artos 02 Calendering Mather & Platt 01 Steamer Gayatri 02 Decatising Shakti 01 Rotary/Flat Bed Printing Texprint/Lakshmi 07

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, 100% Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton. MACHINE DETAILS: Desizing & Washing, Soft Overflow Dyeing, Mercerising, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Stenter, Decatising, Peaching, Steamer, Flat Bed Printing, Rotary Printing, Colour Fixing (Ager) 5. Dalmia Exports Surat, Gujarat Company Profile : Dalmia Exports, established in 1996, is a part of Dalmia Group having over thirty five years of experience in the business of manufacturing and processing of synthetic textiles. Dalmia Group comprising of Dalmia Textiles, Dalmia Silk Mills and Dalmia Enterprises is well known for manufactueing, trading and export of 100% polyester fashion fabrics The group specialises in processing and finishing of synthetic fabrics. The group established in 1989, its first process house M/s Pryagraj Dyeing and Printing Mills (P) Ltd at Surat, Gujarat. This unit is engaged dyeing, bleaching and finishing of synthetic sarees and dress material fabrics. The company's fabric product range includes georgette, chiffon, samoo satin, crepe etc. The unit is equipped with state-of-the- art dyeing and printing machines comprising of rotary printing from Stormac, flat bed screen printing and finishing machines. The unit also has a separate computerised designing department to keep abreast with the latest designs and fashions trends. Dalmia group believes in ultimate customer satisfaction in terms of quality, design and pattern Dalmia Exports, as a part of the group company is involved in distribution of sarees, fabrics and garments in the domestic and export market. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 550 million (US$ 12.79 million) Capital Employed : Rs. 40 million (US$ 0.93 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 10 million metres/annum Printing : 10 million metres/annum Production : 14 million metres/annum Employees : 550 Export Quantity : 5 million metres/annum Export Direction : UAE, U.K., Singapore, Malaysia, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia



Machine Profile :

Jigger Shakti 04 Winches Shakti 02 Jet Dyeing Devrekha 15 Stenter Harish 03 Colour Fixing (Ager) Steel Fabricators 02 Steamer Texfab 01 Flat Bed Screen Printing Texprint 06 Rotary Screen Printing Stormac 01

Fabric Composition : 100% Polyester MACHINE DETAILS: Continuous Bleaching /Dyeing, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Stenter, Steamer, Table Printing, Flat Bed Printing, Rotary Printing, Colour Fixing (Ager) MACHINE DETAILS: Desizing & Washing, Mercerising, Jigger, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Decatising, H.P.Dryer, Flat Bed Printing, Rotary Printing, Colour Fixing (Ager) 6.Gaurav Dyeing & Printing Mills (P) Limited New Mumbai, Maharashtra Company Profile : Gaurav Dyeing & Printing Mills was established in 1992 by Gala Group, a leading textile company. The group started with a retail outlet in 1970 and made its foray in the wholesale fabric market in 1976. Today, the Group is dealing mainly in sarees, dress materials and scarves which is marketed directly to the retail stores all over India. This strategy of direct marketing has enabled the company to know the taste of the ultimate consumers and also to manufacture and introduce new varities, designs and styles. The group believes that the "Quality Always Wins", has resulted in establishing its own process house with a dyeing capacity of 7.2 million metres. At Gaurav, the processing is done on state-of-the-art facility for bleaching, dyeing and printing. The unit is capable of processing fabrics in polyester, cotton, nylon and blends in varied count and construction in the range of 40gsm to 600 gsm, upto 62" (157cms) width. The company has developed exclusive varities in brasso prints and provides special finishes like water repellent, stain proof and flame retardant fabrics as per AS & BS standards The company is primarily engaged in processing fabrics for exports including supplying to 100% EOUS Gaurav is also engaged in direct export of fabrics to Gulf market, USA and European Union. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 250 million (US$ 5.81 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 7.2 million metres/annum Printing : 4.8 million metres/annum Employees : 150 Export Direction : Gulf market, USA and European Union Machine Profile : Desizing & Washing Range Indigenous 01



Pad Batch Dyeing Hi-tech 01 Jet Dyeing Indigenous 03 H.P. Dryer Indigenous 01 Stenter Hi-tech 01 Steamer Texfab 01 Flat Bed Printing Texprint 02 Table/Block Printing Indigenous 06

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, Polyprolyene, Polyester/Cotton, Nylon . MACHINE DETAILS:Singeing, Desizing & Washing, Mercerising, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Carbonising, Stenter, H.P.Dryer, Dryer Float, Table Printing, Flat Bed Printing 7.Olympian Textile Processors Limited Ludhiana, Punjab Company Profile : Olympian Textile Processors Limited, promoted by Mr. Jasvir Singh, was established in 1997 as a dyeing house for yarn and knitted fabrics. The company's dyeing unit, located at Ludhiana, Punjab, is equipped with state-of-the-art machines including Peas Mettler winder, Brazzoli soft overflow dyeing, Staffi cone yarn dyeing and Strayfield R.F. dryer. The unit has a dyeing capacity of around 2 tonnes per day each for yarn and fabrics. The unit is capable of processing fabric in 100% cotton and polyester cotton in varying count range and construction. Olympian, at present caters primarily to the knit garment manufacyurers and exporters. Under the guidance of its Managing Director, Mr. Jasvir Singh, the company's focus is to service the Indian garment exporters and also look into the possibility of direct fabric exports. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 40 million (US$ 0.93 million) Installed Capacity : Yarn Dyeing : 700 tonnes/annum Fabric Dyeing : 700 tonnes/annum Machine Profile : Winding Peas Mettler 01

Soft Overflow Dyeing Brazzoli - Yarn Dyeing (Cone) Staffi - R.F. Dryer Strayfield 01

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, Polyester/Cotton MACHINE DETAILS: Winding, Soft Overflow Bleaching & Dyeing, R.F.Dryer, Yarn Dyeing 8.Shiroga International (P) Limited Ludhiana, Punjab Company Profile : Shiroga International (P) Limited, promoted by Mr. Kuldip Murgai, was established in 1983 as a dyeing and processing house for knit fabric with specialisation in velour



and polar fleece fabrics in 100% cotton and cotton blends. The company, a family run establishment, have been involved in the textile industry since 1972. Shiroga's process house is located at Ludhiana, Punjab, with a dyeing capacity of 5 tonnes per day. The unit is equipped with indigenous and imported dyeing machines which includes winch dyeing, soft overflow dyeing, singeing, relax dryer, stenter, decatising, jigger, H.P. jet dyeing and hydro extractor machines. The dye house is capable of processing knit fabrics in 100% cotton, cotton viscose, polyester cotton, 100% viscose, poly- viscose, polyester, acrylic, melange and lycra. The company is planning to install state-of-the-art fabric finishing facility in the near future. At present, Shiroga is processing fabrics for all the major knit garment exporters in Ludhiana. The company's client profile includes Superfine Knitters, Mayfair, Lasso Fabrics etc. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 70 million (US$ 1.62 million) Capital Employed : Rs. 0.5 million (US$ 0.01 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 1750 tonnes/annum Machine Profile : Singeing Indigenous -

Winch Dyeing Indigenous 18 Soft Overflow Dyeing Krsna 02 Jigger Indigenous 07 Relax Dryer Indigenous 02 Stenter Artos/Maneklal 02 Decatising Sanjay 01 H.P. Jet Dyeing Maneklal 04

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, 100% Acrylic, Polyester Cotton, Cotton Viscose, Melange/Lycra , . MACHINE DETAILS: Singeing, Soft Overflow Bleaching & Dyeing, Jigger, H.P.Jet Dyeing, Winches, Stenter, Decatising, Relax Dryer, Hydro Extractor 9.Sunshine Dyeing (P) Limited Ludhiana, Punjab Company Profile : Sunshine Dyeing (P) Limited was promoted by Mr. P.D. Sood in 1977 for dyeing and processing of knit fabrics. The company, as a part of a larger group, has been in the textile industry since 1935 and is rated as the pioneer for fabric dyeing in Ludhiana. Sunshine's sister concern, Sagar Apparels, is engaged in the business of garment manufacturing with an installed capacity of 1500 pieces per day, producing knit garments for exports for leading international brand names like Sears. The Bay, JJ Max, Club Price, Costo of USA and Canada. Sunshine Dyeing located at Ludhiana, Punjab, is engaged in dyeing of knit fabrics with an installed capacity of 10 tonnes per day on state-of-the-art machines comprising of merceriser, soft overflow dyeing (300-600 kgs dyeing capacity), continuous relax dryer, Hydro-extractor, compactor and calendering machines supplied by world leading manufacturers. Nearly 70% of its processing capacity is utilise by the leading knit garment exporters and the balance by the domestic apparel manufacturers.



Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 80 million (US$ 1.86 milion) Capital Employed : Rs. 2.2 million (US$ 0.05 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing & Finishing : 3500 tonnes/annum Machine Profile : Winches Indigenous 50

Mercerising Thies 01 Soft Overflow Dyeing Erong 05 Relax Continuous Dryer Santex 01 Compactor Santex 01 Calendering Indigenous 02 Hydroextractor Santex 03

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, Cotton Viscose, Polyester Viscose, Polyester Cotton, Melange/Lycra. MACHINE DETAILS: Soft Overflow Dyeing, Mercerising, Relax Dryer, Winches, Calendering, Compactor Tubular, Hydro Extractor 10. Creative Dyeing & Printing Mills (P) Limited Faridabad , Haryana Company Profile : Creative Dyeing & Printing Mills (P) Limited was established in 1989, as a part of Creative Group having business interest in fabric embroidery and garment export. Other group companies include Pee Empro, India Fshion, Gurucharan Sons and Hemla Embroidery. Creative Dyeing & Printing, located at Faridabad, Haryana, has a dyeing capacity of 15.6 million metre and a printing capacity of 7.2 million metres of fabric per annum. The unit is equipped with state- of-the-art Laxmi rotary screen printing. Texprint flatbed screen printing, Devrekha jet dyeing, soft overflow dyeing, a five chamber stenter with 3 bowl mangle, Dhall sanforising (zero-zero) shrinking range, calendering, hydro-extractor and colour fixing machines. The unit is capable of processing and finishing cotton, viscose, polyester and blended fabrics. At present the company is planning to install two additional jet dyeing machines. Creative Dyeing and Printing primarily undertakes jobwork on behalf of garment manufacturers and exporters. The company's client profile includes Chunnu International, Shivam Exports, Handicraft, Superior Craft etc. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 160 million (US$ 3.72 million) Capital Employed : Rs. 75 million (US$ 1.74 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 15.6 million metres/annum Printing : 7.2 million metres/annum Employees : 250 Machine Profile : Continuous Bleaching Shakti 02

Soft Overflow Krsna 04 Pad Batch Dyeing Kalico 01



Jigger Shakti/Jupiter 17 Jet Dyeing Devrekha 03 Drying Range Shakti 02 Stenter Harish 01 Rotary/Flat Printing Texprint/Laxmi 02

Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, 100% Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton MACHINE DETAILS: Continuous Bleaching /Dyeing, Soft Overflow Dyeing, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Calendering, Stenter, Hydro Extractor, Shrinking Range, Steamer, Table Printing, Flat Bed Printing, Rotary Printing, Colour Fixing (Ager) 11.Luthra Textiles Limited Faridabad, (Haryana) Company Profile : Luthra Textiles Limited (Luthra) popularly known for its brand "Anupam Prints" was established in 1982 as a process house for dyeing, printing and finishing of polyester, georgette, chiffon, satin, crepe and other fabrics in 100% polyester, micro polyester and blends of poly-cotton and poly-viscose. As a part of its group activity, Luthra's Plant No. II is also engaged in fabric embroidery and have installed four computerised Schiffli embroidery machines of Saurer (4040HP) with an in-house design arrangement on the latest computer software. Processing unit has an installed capacity of 40,000 metres of dyeing per day and 30,000 metres of printed fabrics per day at its plant at Faridabad, Haryana. The plant has a complete infrastructure for dyeing and printing of fabrics in disperse, reactive discharge and pigment using "Azo-free" dyes and chemicals. The unit has a computerised design and development centre for printing and an R&D laboratory for stringent quality control measures. The process house is equipped with desizing, washing continuous range dyeing, jet dyeing, flatbed printing, sanforising, shearing & cropping machines. The process house offers special "finishes" like water repellent, peach finish, crushing, water proofing, P.U. coating, flame retardant on hot air stenter and decatising which meets the international quality standards. The company has established itself in the international market for its consistent quality and exported last year nearly half a million metres of fabric to Europe. At Luthra's, nearly half of the production is meant for exports. The company's research division is involved in developing new quality and designs in polyester base fabrics according to the fashion trends and the specific requirement of the exporters. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 200 million (US$ 4.65 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 18 million metres/annum Printing : 10 million metres/annum Employees : 150 Export Quantity : 50% Export Direction : Europe, USA, U.K., etc. Machine Profile : Desizing & Washing - 01

Continuous Range Dyeing Dhall - Jet Dyeing Devrekha 07



Shearing & Cropping Brauma 01 Dryer Float Swastik 01 Stenter Indigenous 02 Rotary Screen Printing Harish 01 Flat Bed Screen Printing Texprint 01

Fabric Composition : 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, Polyester/Cotton, Acetate Rayon MACHINE DETAILS: Shearing & Cropping, Singeing, Desizing & Washing, Continuous Bleaching /Dyeing, Mercerising, Jumbo Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Stenter, Decatising, Peaching, Steamer, Flat Bed Printing, Rotary Printing, Dryer Float, Colour Fixing (Ager) 12. K.K. Kohli & Brothers (P) Limited Faridabad, (Haryana) Company Profile : K.K. Kohli & Brothers (P) Limited (K.K.K.), established in 1983, is the flagship company of the K.K.K. Group and is engaged in the manufacture and processing of suiting, shirting, dress material and industrial fabrics. K.K.K. Textiles Limited the group's production unit is engaged in the manufacture of embroidered fabrics while K.K. Kohli & Brothers (P) Limited (K.K.K.) is engaged in the business of process house. The Group's parent company B.S. Kohli Synthetics Limited at Ludhiana has been in the textile industry for the past fifty years. K.K.K.'s process house, located at Faridabad, Haryana, has a fabric dyeing capacity of 20 million metres per annum. The unit is equipped with dyeing, bleaching, singeing, mercerising, brushing, sanforizing and decatising, as well as provides special finishes like, omre dyeing and tie and dye for shirting, suitings, dress materials and industrial fabrics. The unit has installed Mather & Platt mercerising machines of 63" width and Primatex stenters of 60" and 48" width combined with other state-of-the-art indigenous machines which includes Devrekha jet dyeing machines of 10kg to 300kgs dyeing capacity. As part of its expansion plan, K.K.K. is planning to concentrate on the creation of its own brand in suiting, shirting and dress material fabrics which will enable the company to utilise 20% of the unit's present capacity for in-house consumption and the balance for job work processing. The process house is currently catering to some of the leading International customers like Otto, Quelle and Target. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 150 million (US$ 3.48 million) Installed Capacity : Dyeing : 20 million metres/annum Employees : 300 (Group) Machine Profile : Desizing & Washing Harish JT-10 02

Pad Batch Dyeing Bhatt Brothers 01 Jet Dyeing Devrekha/Star/Shakti 09 Jigger Shakti/Bharat 35 Sanforising Thakore Engg. 02 Stenter Primatex/SM 03 Decatising Dalal 01 Peaching Machine Bhatt Brothers 01



Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Polyester, Polyester Viscose, Polyester Cotton, Linen & Blends, Polyamide MACHINE DETAILS: Singeing, Desizing & Washing, Continuous Bleaching /Dyeing, Mercerising, Jigger, Pad-Batch, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Sanforizing, Stenter, Decatising, Peaching 12.ESI Limited Noida,1 (U.P.) Product Range :Silk Fabrics Company Profile : ESI, part of the Calcutta based Eastern Group of Companies, is a 100% export oriented unit (E.O.U.) which was established in 1946, as Eastern Silk Industries Limited (converted to its present name in 1998), with the sole purpose of manufacturing and exporting silk yarn, fabric, made ups, scarves, knitted garments and leather goods. From a small factory at Bhagalpur, Bihar, the company has grown into a large scale silk manufacturing unit using modern technology and latest management techniques. ESI is the only company in India which is involved in the entire process of silk making, right from the collection of cocoons from the tribal community of cocoon farmers upto the final finishing and export of silk. The company has received numerous awards from export promotion councils such as Handloom Export Promotion Council, Indian Silk Export Promotion Council, Ministry of Commerce, Central Silk Board, etc. for it's meritorious export performance over the years. In the domain of silk exports, ESI as a group remains the single largest exporter where the company and its associates account for the highest share of the present market in India and abroad. ESI has a large overseas buyers profile in USA, Canada, EEC countries, France, Scandinavia, EFFTA countries, Japan, Australia and New Zealand. ESI group has manufacturing and production centres in Orissa, Madhya Pradesh, Surat, Bangalore and Coimbatore, all of them being completely decentralized and equipped with the latest technology and management practices. The company's unit at Noida is a modern processing plant with state of the art dyeing/bleaching, singeing, brushing, decatising and finishing facility. At present, the company is in the process of establishing a printing unit at Gurgaon near Delhi for which land has already been acquired. Annual Sales Turnover : Rs. 1150 million (US$ 26.74 million) Capital Employed : Rs. 611 million (US$ 14.20 million) Installed Capacity : Processing : 6 million metres/annum Production : 4.2 million metres/annum Employees : 350 Export Quantity : 100% Export Direction : Australia, Europe, China Columbia, Japan, Mauritius, USA,Singapore Saui Arabia etc. Machine Profile : Singeing Sanjay 01

Jigger Shakti/Jupiter 10



Jet Dyeing Star/Devrekha 03 Winches Sanjay/Shakti 05 Yarn Dyeing Swastik 01 Calendering Mather & Platt 01 Stenter Harish/Primatex 02 Decatising Dalal 01

Fabric Composition : 100% Silk MACHINE DETAILS: Singeing, Desizing & Washing, Jigger, Jet Dyeing, Winches, Yarn Dyeing, Calendering, Stenter, Decatising, Stenter Global Outlook

• The large number of joint ventures and strategic alliances formed in the last 3-4 years is a testimony to the growing consciousness of the need for improving quality. Besides, the industry is generally taking a more outward looking attitude, perhaps because of its growing dependence upon exports for growth. In textiles, important joint ventures and alliances include tie-ups of Burlington with Mafatlal for denim, alamac and Arvind for an integrated knitwear facility, dormeuil. Freres with Birla VXL for worsted fabrics, Melba industries with the LNJ Bhilwara Group for automobile upholsteries, Reid & Taylor with the S.Kumars Group for worsted suiting and Ostertag Hausmann with J.J.Exports for silk fabrics, besides the successful partnership between the leading yarn exporter GTN Textile and Itochu Corp. of Japan and Marubeni’s deep involvement in investments by companies like Indo Rama Synthetics and Prerna Syntex.

Indian Textiles entrepreneurs are moving towards global competitiveness, and they do not want to depend upon the advantage of lower cotton prices available to them.

• Mafatlal Industries, is the largest exporter of processed fabrics (other than denim) in India, Sanjay Lalbhai of Arvind Mills makes no bones while declaring his intention to become the world’s largest producer of denim, Ajay Lohia of Woolworth is already operating a world-scale worsted facility, and several Indian apparel manufacturers have started promoting their own brand names not only in the Middle East but even in Europe.

• Specialization and niche markets are the buzz worlds now, and textile giants of India

are trying to work out strategies that will help them acquire leading positions in global markets. The world-renowned consulting firm, McKinsey & Co. has already prepared strategy plans for several Indian companies, including Arvind, Mafatlal and Morarjee, besides having conceptualized the large US$ 100 million integrated textile facility being set up by the Chennai based Chemplast Sanmar Group.



Era of Specialization The structure of India’s cotton textiles industry is under going a sea change, through things have been at a standstill for about a year now because of investments in new plant and machinery having slowed down. However, even the slowdown is contributing to change – smaller units with old machines are finding it increasingly difficult to survive. As is well known, individual units have become larger and technology levels have risen significantly in the last few years. Automation is being adopted with growing fervor by the industry. Mainly for attaining global quality standards. Perhaps the most important change that the taken place and is still continuing is polariszation of the industry into two distinct segments – one catering to exports, and up market demand domestically and the other catering to lower quality stuff. There used to be a huge intermediate sector but that has shrunk considerably in the last few years, particularly in the case of spinning. The availability of reasonably good quality is shrinking – one buys either first- class spliced yarn or one gets poor quality stuff. However, this needs to be viewed in conjunction with the fact that investment in new spinning machinery have been too high in the current decade. Now that investment has slowed down, the middle rung will emerge once again in the next few years. Specialization The single biggest reason why large composite mills in India have performed poorly in the last three decades is the fact that there has been no focus on specific products. Mills having 500 to 1000 looms have been producing as many as 40 to 50 varieties at the same time. Poplin (shirting ), treasuring, dress material, blouse material, sarees. You name it and every mill has it. The concept of specialization in specified products came into India in the denim. All denim plants were dedicated to denim. Once denim was well entrenched as a segment of the cotton textile industry by the early nineties, companies started thinking it terms of dedicated plants for other products also. For example, Morarjee Mills does not say it has set up a mill with so many spindles and so many looms. It says it has set up a plant for high value shirting. Cotton spinning EOUs were dedicated to supplying cotton yarn to global markets. Terry towels units were designed for producing only terry towels. Thus, now the industry has started thinking in terms of plants designed for specified products – bottom weights, knitted fabrics, shirting and furnishing fabrics, etc. The growing demand for branded products in all product categories has also boosted this line of thinking. EXPORT ORIENTED UNITS

• Units set up under the Export Oriented Unit (EOU) scheme are eligible for several incentives and facilities in India. They are allowed to import, free of duty, all their requirements of capital goods and raw materials and even items like office equipment and steel for construction. In addition, they are exempted from payment of income tax for a period of five years form the date of commencement of operators. They are also allowed



to sell one fourth of their production in the domestic market, which is subject to levy of normal customs, excise and other taxes.

• Textiles and clothing industries have been the biggest users of the scheme. However, the

reason for the popularity of the scheme has not been the incentives offered but other policy restraints. For example, cotton yarn exports have been subject to restraint, but EOUs have been outside the purview of quantitative restraints on exports. As global demand for cotton yarn started rising in the early nineties, a large number of entrepreneurs set up cotton spinning units under the EOU scheme.

• Long deliveries quoted by Indian manufacturers of spinning machines also contributed to

the growth of the EOU sector since the EOUs were not subject to customs duty on machinery and this resulted in a substantial narrowing of price difference between Indian and imported machines.

• The EOU scheme implies certain operational restraints for companies, the most imports of

which is the fact that they have to export at least 75% of their production. Though the scheme allows some flexibility in the initial years, many a times companies find it difficult to fulfill the conditions. For such cases, there is an allied scheme called the Export Promotion Capital Goods Scheme (EPCG), under this scheme, manufacturers can import capital goods at a concessional rate of duty, which is only ten percent at present. If the value of imported machines exceed Rs. 200 million (about US$ 5 million), the duty is nil. In turn, the company importing the equipment at concessional or nil duty has to undertake to export goods worth four to six times the c.i.f. value of the machines within a given period of time.

• Cotton Spinning EOUs have been so successful in India that the sector has attracted

investments from almost all kinds of companies. Large existing textile group like Arvind, Century and Hindon River Mills have set up separate spinning EOUs, Besides, old and established spinners like GTN Textiles, Vardhman and Forbes Gokak have also set up spinning EOUs. The Vardhman Group now has an EOU capacity of over 125,000 spindles. There have even been cases of existing spinning mills converting themselves into EOUs, in spite of the fact that they receive significantly lower fiscal benefits because duty paid on machines already purchased is not refunded. Spinning EOUs have even attracted firms from such diverse fields as mining and quarrying (Prerna Syntex), auto components.

Indian Textile Machinery Sector

• There are at least 20 domestic companies offering textile machinery for spinning, weaving, texturizing and finishing. The Lakshmi Group of Coimbatore has been the most successful of these companies. Lakshmi's success is attributable to its longevity in the sector and its ability to offer a range of textile machinery directly or through its sister companies. Consequently, Lakshmi can meet the needs of a variety of end users.

• The U.S. market share of imported textile machinery is only approximately 3 percent.

Competitors from European countries such as Germany, Switzerland and the United



Kingdom have taken the lead and are concentrating on equipment for cotton spinning, weaving, carding, winding and finishing.

Significant suppliers of critical textile machinery are: A comprehensive list of foreign companies servicing the Indian market include:

Third Country Suppliers Country Automatik Apparate Maschinenbau GmbH Germany Bruno Amsler Ag Switzerland Camber Int'l Ltd. UK Giudici Davide & Figli SNC Italy Int'l Textile Services Zurich Kyang Yhe Delicate Machine Co Ltd. Taiwan, ROC Novotex Bulgaria Metrimpex Hungatian Trading Co. Hungary, Oscar Dilo Machinen fabrik KG Germany Parker Hannifan Corpn, West Germany SKF Textilmaschinen-Komponenten GmbH West Germany Strojimport Foreign Trade Corpn Czechoslovakia Teijin Seiki Co. Ltd. Japan Terrot Strickmaschinen GmbH West Germany Textima Export-Import East Germany Val Lesina SPA Italy Trutzschler GmbH & Co. Germany Tsudokama Corpn Japan (Air-Jet looms)Nuovopignone Italy Bonas Machine Co. Ltd. UK Hans Affuppur West Germany Liba Machinenfabrik GmbH West Germany Bentley Engineering Co Ltd. UK RHN Grieve Ltd. UK Comez, Spain S. A. Serracant Spain Murao Bookl Kaisha Ltd. Japan Gebruder Luscher AG Switzerland Bates Textile Machine Co. Ltd. UK Roblon Engineering Denmark PEGG Whiteley & Sons Ltd. UK Mesdan Italy Bruckner Trockentechnik K.G. West Germany Friedrichsfeld, Mannheim West Germany Scalfhorsdt Germany Mitsubishi Japan Marubeni Japan Rieter Switzerland



Oerlikon Switzerland Kohap Korea Source: U. S. Department of Commerce - National Trade Data Bank, November 3, 2000 High Value Shirting Cotton shirting is being viewed as an emerging market in the Indian cotton textiles industry. Until the eighties, the shirting scene was largely dominated by fabrics made of polyester/viscose blends, frequently in combination with textured filament yarn. However, the scenario has changed completely in the nineties, when the market for branded shirts grew manifold and cotton became high fashion. Leading brands like Van Heusen, Louis Philippe, Arrow Trendz, Zodiac and others are now more cotton based than synthetics and blends. Through some nationally known brands did emerge in case of blended shirting also during the eighties, the examples being Vimal, Raymond and Beekalene, etc., the composition of the market is now undergoing a sea change. While blended shirting of all hues appears to be doing reasonably well a whole new market is emerging for what the cotton textile industry call High Value Shirting. Produced in counts finer than 50s, of fully combed yarn and a fairly high dyed yarn content, this shirting is selling at prices hitherto unthinkable – in the range of about Rs. 100 to 150 meter in wholesale. Retail prices often exceed Rs. 200 for 58/60inch width fabrics and real high class pinstripes can and do command even higher prices. Volume growth has perhaps slowed down in consonance with the general economic slowdown in India. However, this is one part of the industry which does not appear to be in any kind of distress. Most except ‘some ‘ growth to continue even through the lead period. Perhaps the industry is waiting for the Greenfield facilities of Morarjee or Arvind to register convincing success. Once that happens, changes are that more Greenfield projects dedicated to shirring will come up. Unlike in the case of polyester and blended shirtings, a middle rung of medium to small manufacturers is yet to emerge in cotton shirtings. Though one reason is that the market itself is quite small in absolute terms, perhaps more important is the fact that quality expectations of users are so high that they can be met only by plants of a certain minimum size. For one thing, the conventional shuttle weaving is simply not acceptable to the up market clientele. Besides, the finesse required in processing is simply not possible for mid-sized commission dyeing houses to achieve. Sophisticated mechanical finishing and equipment for precise control in chemical finishing are absolutely necessary for achieving the desired quality standards. The market size, including direct exports of shirting’s, is estimated at about 50 million meter/year only, but it has to grow manifold in coming years not only because of growth in domestic demand but also because apparel exporters too are trying to move up market in order to improve their value addition and profits. Terry Towels



Though apparently the industry appears to have sort of stopped in its tracks after setting up two large plants in the first half of the nineties (Modern Terry Towels and We spun India), the output of terry towels is growing at a slow, but steady pace. Small and mid-sized projects have been set up in recent years, which have remained low profile but appear to be performing reasonably well. Most of the units are largely looking at exports. Publicly owned Anglo French Textiles has 36 looms running terry towels. Bombay Dyeing has been in the field for ages. New projects having capacities in the range of 800 to 1500 ton/year include Terry fab India, which has 12 Hiraiwa rapier looms. POY producer Parasrampuria Synthetics of the KG group of Coimbatore has a terry towel unit. Riba Textiles has set up a project having 15 Nuovo Pignone looms, of which 10 are equipped with jacquards and 5 with dobbies. Abhishek Spinfab of Ludhiana has a terry towel unit having a capacity of about 3000 ton/year. Thus, the industry has shown steady growth. In the domestic market also, the demand for branded towels is growing. Until the last decade, the consumer used to go either to Bombay Dyeing shops or a handloom emporium for towels. That is no more the case. Multibrand stores are now offering high-quality toweling at reasonable prices and the choice in terms of weight density, designs and prints is quite varied. Sales of branded towels are still estimated at about Rs. 1 billion only, but the general belief is that it has to grow at least five fold within the next five to ten years or so. The overall demand for terry towels is at least ten times larger than the branded segment. Denim The rather quick growth in capacity has, not surprisingly, resulted in a glut in the domestic market, which is estimated at about 50 million meters. Exports are running at around 75 million meters, but the capacity is over 200 million metes and is still growing to some extent. Companies like Rashika Synthetics and Jaipur Syntex have dropped their plans to enter the industry. The existing players are waiting for the market to pick up. A number of denim manufacturers have entered the jeans segment also, perhaps, this is a rather unique phenomenon to India. Most of the denim producers area so into jeans. Arvind has several brands, KG denim has Trigger jeans, the Raymond group has the Park Avenue brand (which has been expanded to include jeans), Gujarat Ambuja has 4th Rock and others like Ashima are planning to get into the fray. The pre-capita consumption of denim in India is less than 0.10 meters or about one tenth of the global average. Thus, domestic consumption is expected to pick up significantly in the medium to long term. As regards exports, India is still a small player in the international market and has a long way to go. As has been stated in one of the earlier issues of JTN, India produces about a fifth of the global cotton output and can reasonably look forward to a 20% share in global production of denim, which means an annual output of the order of about 500 million meters. The present output is about 200 million meters or so. Besides, Indian textile giants have started examining the feasibility of offshore manufacturing, one example being the fact that Arvind Mills has commissioned a denim plant in Mauritus.



Notwithstanding the current glut, India’s denim industry is set to grow handsomely in coming years. The growth is likely to come from domestic, as well as international markets. Denim has the added advantage of the fact that the share of raw cotton in total cost is much higher than other textile products, and even the quality of cotton is less important than is the case with lighter fabrics. Once the demand-supply equilibrium in the domestic market is restored in a year or two, the denim industry is expected to start growing again. In the immediate term, it is doubtful whether any new project will be taken up for implementation. Synthetic Industry Reliance Industries and Indo Rama Synthetics are the two industry leaders in polyester. However, Indo Ram has to buy its raw material (PTA/MEG) from others whereas Reliance is a fully integrated plant, though it has some gap at the paraxylene stage. In the case of POY, there is a middle rung consisting of Raymond Synthetics, DCL Polyester and Snaghi Polyester, but all of them have capacities of less than 80000 ton/year and suffer from location disadvantages also. Several smaller plants like Haryana Petrochemicals, Parasrampuria Synthetics, Petrofils and Baroda Rayon have either stopped production or are running at nominal levels. There are some very small plants also, such as Mahendra Suitings and Nova Petrochemicals, besides Jindal Polyester. These plants appear to be performing better than the middle rung because they use polyester chips and a large part of the intensity of competition in polyester gets take care of by the chips stage. Besides, these plants of 10,000 to 20,000 ton/year capacity have very low overheads. In case of polyester staple fibres, the only producers other than Reliance and Indo Rama are JCT, which is in the process of being taken very by Polysindo of Indonesia and JK Corp., besides Indian Origanic and Swadeshi Polytex. India polyfibres and Bongaigaon are reportedly running at much below their capacities. The overall capacity is over 500,000 tons, whereas the output in the first half of 1997-98 was 206,433 tons. Even if the levels is maintained through the year, it is barely enough for Reliance and Indo Rama, which together have a capacity of about 400,000 tons. Other Man-Made Fibres In the case of nylon filament yarn, there was a small growth in 1996-97, but consumption appears to be declining this year. POY has become simply too cheap and nylon is finding it increasingly difficult to compete. In fact, nylon consumption has been steady at around 50,000 tons for several years now. The main reason is that its applications are extremely limited. In socks it has lost ground to cotton while in saris only some niche products are being made with nylon content. Umbrella cloth and coated fabrics for outerwear offer scope for growth in nylon but these are still not being produced in India in a big way. Bulks of these requirements are being met from imports. Viscose filament yarn too has been static at around 60,000 tons or so. This too is explained by limited applications. It is being used mainly as a replacement for Jari consumption of which too is declining steadily. Viscose staple fibre has suffered because of the high growth in polyester staple fibre. The increase in output of blended yarns has not been as handsome as is suggested by growth in polyester staple fibre. What has happened is that polyester staple fibre content in P/V yarn has increased enormously – from about 40-45% to over 70% in the last 2-3 year or so. The production of VSF declined in 1996-97, however not that polyester staple fibre can not replace VSF in P/V



yarn in percentage terms, VSF demand may start growing once again, though the immediate term outlook does not appear to be very promising. Growth in man-made fibre naturally implies that domestic usage of synthetic and blended textiles has risen significantly. Several areas have been captured by synthetics almost completely, such as furnishing fabrics. Saris made of polyester filament continue to be popular among masses and the same goes for dress materials for women’s dresses and even bed sheets. Even in men’s shirting’s, the traditional varieties made out of P/V blended yarn with or without some filament content have maintained their share, in spite of the fact that the upper ends of the society have taken to cotton in a big way. Filament fabrics are also gaining popularity because of their long-lasting strength, air permeability and superior color fastness. Until five years ago, the initial cost of synthetic and blended textiles was higher than cotton because of the tax structure, but now taxes are reasonable and prices of man made fibres have declined and consequently, even the initial cost of synthetic and blended fabrics is lower than cotton fabrics in most cases. At what level the share of synthetics and blends will stablise in the overall domestic consumption of textiles is anybody’s guess. No detailed figures are available but it is clear that the share of synthetics has already crossed the fifty percent mark in India, compared to a global average of somewhat less than fifty percent. Besides, an important point to be noted is that non-textile usage of fibres in India are still low. In clothing alone, cotton probably still has a share of about sixty percent or thereabout whereas in India, the share of cotton in clothing is now less than fifty percent. Whether the saturation point has arrived or not, will be clear only after the current slowdown is over and consumption starts rising again. Polyester /cotton blended yarn has started growing well in the last few months. Knitwear manufacturers have started using P/C yarn, though the price of P/C yarn for knitting purposes is still about the same as cotton yarn or even slightly higher. The northern town of Ludhiana, which was hitherto concentration upon woolen hosiery, has reportedly started consuming about 30 million kg. A year of P/C yarn. Southern cotton spinners are also increasingly adopting polyester blends because of a variety of reasons, including the lower working capital requirements. Suitings Within the blended textile sector, it is almost impossible to ascertain the share of suitings. So far, no detailed study has been made of the end use pattern of various kinds of yarn produced and consumed in India. However, suitings have been a growth area and continues to grow. Besides the increasing urbanization, the female population is also consuming increasingly large quantities of suitings for products like skirts. Even trousers are finding acceptance among women in particular. In recent years, cotton trousering has come back with a bang. Major textile firms like Arvind, Bombay Dyeing, Mafatlal, Morarjee and Ashima are already paying a great deal of attention to exploiting the potential offered by this new trend. Arvind is even setting up a dedicated plant for cotton trousering. JCT has always been a big player in this field and may grow further now that it has decided to sell its polyester unit and concentrate upon textiles.



Worsted suitings too have growth, though there is some overcapacity in worsted now. Reliance and Birla VXL have increased their capacities in the last 3-4 year and newer players like the LNJ Bhilwara Group have intensified their efforts to compete with established brands that include Graviera and Dinesh suitings. The overall demand for worsted suitings is perhaps still below 200 million meters, and there is a temporary lull in the market because of the general sluggishness, but the product has a long way to go. In India, the market for pure wool suitings is very small. Over ninety percent of the output is accounted for by polyester/wool suitings, in which the polyester content is often as high as 75%. The primary function of wool is to add fall and drape to the fabric. The overall outlook for synthetic and blended textiles, including blends of wool, is bright in the medium and long-term, but there are apprehensions about the immediate term. Consumer spending on clothing is running low and much would depend upon how the economy at large performs in 1998 and 1999. on the whole, few expect any significant pick up in the next two years but after that, growth should resume ink right earnest. By that time, the demand –supply balance is also likely to be restored in basic man-made fibre, as well as niche products like worsted suitings and branded synthetic fabrics because there are no signs of any pick up in investments as yet. Perhaps the most important factor that needs to be noted by overseas analysts and investors is that India is now read to receive more branded products but the consumer is not about to splurge on labels. It has been proved beyond doubt globally that a label can at best fetch an extra realization of about 15% to 20% or so. That apples to India also. Thus, what the Indian market is looking for is not labels that invite envy at parties but labels that assure a certain level of quality in a consistent manner. The consumer is willing to pay 10% to 15% or even 20% higher if he knows that the label completely eliminates the possibility of deformation or color fading or loose threads coming out of the fabric after a couple of washes. This segment is wide open to new investments in practically all product categories, whether it is cotton or synthetics or blends. Wool Sector The domestic market is expected to double in size, while the export market will probably y the year 2005. The outstanding quality of Indian wool products has improved greatly, and is now comparable to international standards. India depends on overseas sources for its finer apparel wool and wool textile machinery. By and large, the machinery imported from Germany, France, Italy, Switzerland and Japan. The country is the eighth largest importer of Australian wool and by the year 2005, the consumption of apparel wool by Indian mills is expected to increase by 129%. Worsted spindles will likely touch 1 million in 2005, while looms are to number 10000. naturally, the industry must improve the quality of their products and services in order to achieve this target. The Indian wool industry can be roughly divided into three major production segments; i.e. knitwear, worsted fabrics and shawls. Meanwhile, the industry operates on three levels; the organized mill sector, decentralized sector and apparel and household textile sectors.



The organized mill sector consists of large mills producing most of the wool yarn and fabrics. In fact, nearly all of country’s apparel wool imports are processed into fabrics or knitwear by the organized sector. There are an estimated 150 large mills in this sector. Indicative of the potential for growth is the steady increase in capacity. Worsted spindles installed in the sector increase from 221,000 in 1980 to 566,000 in 194 are projected to reach 1 million in 2005. Meanwhile, woolen spindles rose from 178,000 to 317,000 and are expected to touch 350,000 in 2005. Looms are also to increase from 7,200 in 1994 to 10,000. Silk Sector India is a producer of all of the four main commercial varieties of silk, i.e. mulberry, tassar, eri and muga. Its mulberry silk production is the second largest after China holding a 14% share of the world’s raw silk production (approx 14,400 tons), and the country also ranks next to China in the production of tassar silk, while dominating the production of muga silk as well. India is estimated to have 200,000 twisting spindles, which are mostly located at small mills. The weaving machines for silk fabric production number 227,000 handlooms and 34,500 power looms. The production a wide range of silk products for both the domestic market and export, such as saris, scarves, stoles, dress material, mixed and blended fabrics, bedspreads, cushion covers, carpets and apparel. Value addition has become essential for today’s Indian silk exporters. Being well aware of China’s dominance on the international market, silk exporters are increasingly focusing on the higher end of the market centering around Europe. Exports to the U.S. and Japan are also being emphasized. In order to make Indian Silk more popular on the global market, the Indian Silk Export Promotion Council is now asking international designers to create their works in Indian Silk. The future Conclusion : India has emerged as a major force in global markets for textiles and apparel in the last decade or so. In sheer volume, it is now behind only China, if all textiles related exports are taken into account, except for staple fibres and filaments. In the case of synthetics and blends, exports of downstream products (yarn fabrics and made-ups items) have grown, but the man-made fibre industry itself has not yet become a major exporter. However, there is significant excess capacity in polyester filament yarn, and exports of PFY in general and textured yarn in particular have started frowning. India has generally viewed as a low cost producer of run-of-the mill products by developed world importers, but exports of high value items are growing at a fast clip. These include denim, high value yarn-dyed cotton shirting, terry towels, trousers, shirts, etc. In fact the Indian industry is now concentrating on moving up the value chain, intense competitive pressure resulting from the currency crisis that shook the Asian countries including Indonesia and



Korea in 1997 and the effects of which are still visible ( these currencies are still way below their pre 1997 values), has forced Indian firms to look for higher value added content, beside volume. On the whole, imports have not really hurt the industry so far, but the growth in imports is rapid and many are apprehensive about the future. The market is too large about 30,000 million square meters. India’s exports are substantial at over US$ 10 billion (including apparel), but the industry is facing problems of frequent changes in global trends, volatility in currencies and intense internal competition, besides high energy costs and rising wages. Which facto has hurt how much is well nigh impossible to quantify. Domestic consumption, as well as exports, is quite likely to register some growth in the current fiscal year (to March 2001) also. Apparently, the industry as a whole is not losing money, though financial weakness is there investments are picking up at a very slow pace. Growth in real domestic consumption of polyester filament products has slumped to nominal levels, while consumption of cotton textiles has started experiencing some growth hitherto it had been declining. Volatility in export markets is high. It is routine to see faces switching from smiles to gloom every alternate month. When the euro goes up, exporters look relieved. Then NASDAQ goes up, euro declines and exporters mood becomes gloomy again. There is yet another angle to imports, India has a treaty with its neighbours (Nepal, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka), under which preferential, lower rates of customs are applicable to imports from these countries. Some of these facilities are allegedly being misused also. India’s real strength lies in the fact that perhaps it has the largest pool of human resources in the world, kin terms of the number of trained technicians and workers. Besides, most of the senior managers in the textile and apparel industries, handling commercial and management functions, are also fully familiar with the broad technical aspects of the industry. Moving from production to finance and from quality control to general management is routine. This flexible managerial cadre has thus resulted in a lot of entrepreneurship and low costs. The ability of Indian executives to understand all of the aspects of the industry have resulted in so many small and medium units having been set up by professional. These multi-faceted elements have brought costs down to unimaginable levels throughout the vast industry – beginning from machine building, right up to apparel fabrication and retailing. India’s textile and apparel industries have grown at a steady pace in the last decade, but there is some apprehension about the immediate term outlook. The economy at large has been experiencing slightly slower growth rates in the last couple of years. Demand for textile products is growing at a very slow pace now. On the other hand, global markets have started behaving in a somewhat erratic manner. Month to month variations in shipments and others received fluctuate quite heavily. India has removed most of the quantitative restraints on imports although customs duties on many products have been specified in absolute terms. For example, most varieties of fabrics, have to pay the higher of the ad valorem rate and a rate specified in quantitative terms. Nevertheless, the level of protection provided to the domestic industry has declined steeply and the government has



reiterated its commitment to bring customs down to south & East Asian levels within three years or so. As imports grown, there is likely to be some re-adjustment in and re-structuring of the industry. Some will go under and some will become more competitive. On the whole, the Indian textile and apparel industries present a picture of growing confidence and continued growth. The industry is working hard to cut lead-time in tune with the growing preference for Quick Response in global markets, and is constantly upgrading its technology in order to meet the required quality standards and maintain competitiveness. Refrences :

• India Textiles & Apparel,1998 • Asian Textile Businees, April,2001 • JTN Monthly, March 2001 • JTN Monthly, Jan.2001 • http://www.ril.com/petm.htm • http://www.malwaoswal.com/group.htm • http://www.jctltdl.com/profile.htm

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