Polly Top This humble beauty is a 21st Century explorer - though London is home, she has rarely put down roots in recent years. Instead, she has been pursuing her love of travel and airplane journeys (particularly when settled in with a Bloody Mary and a bag of peanuts). Creative through and through she is mostly to be found armed with her camera, excited by taking portraits of landscapes, friends and foliage on her voyages. She is warm, enthusiastic and bright, living in the world of possibilities - inspiring and motivating all those around her.
PollyTop_ByHandLondon
Nov 06, 2015
Patron Falda.
Welcome message from author
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Transcript
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Polly Top
This humble beauty is a 21st Century explorer - though London is home, she has rarely put down roots in recent years. Instead, she has been pursuing her love of travel and airplane journeys (particularly when settled in with a Bloody Mary and a bag of peanuts). Creative through and through she is mostly to be found armed with her camera, excited by taking portraits of landscapes, friends and foliage on her voyages. She is warm, enthusiastic and bright, living in the world of possibilities - inspiring and motivating all those around her.
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1 WorkspaceFind a quiet room and a big table. A girls gotta concentrate, especially when getting ready to cut.
Aloha!
What we love most about sewing at By Hand London HQ is the power it gives you over your personal style. But, theres more! The other thing we really enjoy is the fact that were developing a skill. We dig the internet, but nothing beats some good offline fun. Sewing is the perfect creative outlet and to get the most out of it, here are just three simple steps to follow when starting a new project:
3 SizingChoose your size carefully. Have a look at our sizing chart. Please bear in mind that if it looks like you are coming up in between sizes, then the best thing to do is go up a size. Were totally aware that no matter which sizing method we use, bodies do not come in a standard shape! We definitely recommend making up a toile you can tweak, before cutting into your lovely fabric.
2 Tools Check youve got all the tools you need.
There is nothing worse than getting really excited to start a project and then realising youre about to run out of thread or you forgot to get a zipper.
Tools, supplies and sizing 1
Layplans 2
Putting your printed pattern together 3
Inserting your front panel 4
Joining your shoulder and side seams 4
Binding your neckline and armholes 5-6
Hemming 6
Test square 7
Your Polly Top pattern 8-36
Contents
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A woven tank top with clean lines and a tab hem, Polly features a contrast panel at the front allowing for endless colour and fabric combinations, as well as shaping the bust without the need for darts. Simple and quick to make, but dont let that fool you; The Polly Top provides just the right amount of challenge, encouraging you to hone your skills sewing curves and making your own bias tape to bind the neckline and armholes.
TO MAKE YOUR TOP
Your fabric
Pins
Tape measure
Pinking shears (optional)
Matching thread
Dress makers shears
Overlocker/serger (optional)
Pollys a pretty flexible gal so have a go making her up in any of the following.light to medium weight wovens such as cotton lawn, quilting, voile, shirting, poplin, batiste, broderie, flannel, lace; drapey fabrics such as silk crepe de chine, silk charmeuse, chiffon, habotai, rayon, wool crepe; even knits such as ponte, double knit and viscose jersey.
TO PRINT AND ASSEMBLE PATTERN
Printer
A4 paper
Sellotape
Paper scissors
Polly Top
1
45 & 60ALL SIZES2.8 M3 YDS
WHAT YOU NEED
RECOMMENDED FABRICS
FABR
IC R
EQU
IRED
FRONT
BACK
Sizing chart US/UK
2/6 4/8 6/10 8/12 10/14 12/16 14/18 16/20
Bust
32in 8114cm
33in 8334cm
34in 8614cm
35in 8834cm
37in 94cm
39in 99cm
42in 10612cm
45in 11414cm
Waist
25in 6312cm
26in 66cm
27in 6812cm
28in 71cm
30in 76cm
32in 8114cm
35in 89cm
38in 9612cm
Hips
35in 89cm
36in 9112cm
37in 94cm
38in 9612cm
40in 10112cm
42in 10612cm
45in 11414cm
48in 122cm
FInished bust
34in 86cm
35in 89cm
36in 91cm
37in 94cm
39in 99cm
41in 104cm
44in 111cm
47in 119cm
Finished waist
34in 87cm
35in 90cm
36in 92cm
37in 95cm
39in 100cm
41in 105cm
44in 112cm
47in 120cm
Finished hip
39in 99cm
40in 101cm
41in 104cm
42in 106cm
44in 111cm
46in 116cm
49in 124cm
52in 132cm
Length - centre back to hem
19in 49cm
19in 50cm
20in 50cm
20in 50cm
20in 51cm
20in 52cm
21in 53cm
21in 53cm
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2Fabric comes in a variety of widths, but the most common options are 60 or 150cm and 45 or 115cm, which is why weve used them here to help you with your layplan.
A Front piece
B Front panel
C Back piece
D Armhole binding
E Neckline binding
PATTERN KEY
Right Side
Wrong Side
LayplansLay your pattern pieces onto your fabric according to the diagrams. Begin by laying down the pieces that belong on the fold, being sure to pay attention to the grainline. Be sure to snip all notches and transfer all markings onto your fabric with tailors chalk. Please note that we have included a standard 5/8 inch or 15mm seam allowance on all our patterns.
45 & 60 WITHOUT CONTRASTING PANELALL SIZES
45 & 60 WITH CONTRASTING PANELALL SIZES
FRONT
BACK
1.3m1.3yds
1.8m2yds
0.6m0.6yds
1m1yd
1m1yd
D
E
D
C
B
A D
E
D
A
C
B
D
E
D
C
B
A D
E
D
A
C
B
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3Putting your printed pattern together
US 2 / U
K 6U
S 4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10U
S 8 / UK 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
6 SU 01 KU /
8 SU 1 KU / 2
SU 10 / KU 14
KU / 21 SU 16
/ 41 SU KU 18
02 KU / 61 SU
D
B
poT ylloP
lenap tnorFdlof no 1 tuC
ylloPpoT
elohmrAgnidnib
riap 1 tuC
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
01 KU / 6 SU
21 KU / 8 SU
41 KU / 01 SU
61 KU / 21 SU
81 KU / 41 SU
US 16 / UK 20
poT ylloP
eceip kcaBdlof no 1 tuC
C
ceN k enilgnidnib
P ylloT po
E
Grain
line
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
US 6 / UK 10
21 KU / 8 SU
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 SU
81 KU / 41 SU
US 16 KU / 20
Cut 1
6 KU / 2 S U
8 KU / 4 S U
01 KU / 6 S U
21 KU / 8 S U
US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16
US 14 / UK 18
02 KU / 61 S U
US 2 / UK 6
US 4 / UK 8
US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 SU
US 14 / UK 18
61 SU / UK 20
US 2 / U
K 6
US 4 / U
K 8
US 6 / U
K 10
US 8 / U
K 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
US 2
/
UK 6
US
4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10
US 8 /
UK 12
US 10 / U
K 14
poT ylloP
eceip tnorFdlof no 1 tuC
A
Place o
n fo
ld
Place o
n fo
ld
Place o
n fo
ld
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20US 2
/ UK 6
US
4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10U
S 8 /U
K 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12
/ UK 1
6
US 14 /
UK 18
US 16 /
UK 20
US 2
/ UK
6
US4 /
UK 8
US 6
/ UK
10
US 8 /
UK 12
US 10
/ UK
14
6 KU / 2 S U
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 S U
US 14 / UK 18
02 KU / 61 S U
8 KU / 4 S U01 KU / 6 S U21 KU / 8 S U
Grain
line
1A 1A 1B 1B 1C 1C 1D 1D
3A
6A
6A
3A 3B 3B 3C 3C 3D 3D
5A 5A 5B 5B
5C 5C
5D 5D
7A 7A 7B 7B 7C 7C 7D 7D
9A 9A
9B 9B
9C 9C
9D 9D
11A 11A 11B 11B 11C 11C 11D 11D
Test Square
6B
6B
6C
6C
6D
6D
6E
6E
8A
8A
8B
8B
8C
8C
8D
8D
8E
8E
10A
10A
10B
10B
10C
10C
10D
10D
10E
10E
4A
4A
4B
4B
4C
4C
4D
4D
4E
4E
2A
2A
2B
2B
2C
2C
2D
2D
2E
2E
US 2 / U
K 6U
S 4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10U
S 8 / UK 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
6 SU 01 KU /
8 SU 1 KU / 2
SU 10 / KU 14
KU / 21 SU 16
/ 41 SU KU 18
02 KU / 61 SU
D
B
poT ylloP
lenap tnorFdlof no 1 tuC
ylloPpoT
elohmrAgnidnib
riap 1 tuC
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
01 KU / 6 SU
21 KU / 8 SU
41 KU / 01 SU
61 KU / 21 SU
81 KU / 41 SU
US 16 / UK 20
poT ylloP
eceip kcaBdlof no 1 tuC
C
ceN k enilgnidnib
P ylloT po
E
Grain
line
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
US 6 / UK 10
21 KU / 8 SU
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 SU
81 KU / 41 SU
US 16 KU / 20
Cut 1
6 KU / 2 S U
8 KU / 4 S U
01 KU / 6 S U
21 KU / 8 S U
US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16
US 14 / UK 18
02 KU / 61 S U
US 2 / UK 6
US 4 / UK 8
US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 SU
US 14 / UK 18
61 SU / UK 20
US 2 / U
K 6
US 4 / U
K 8
US 6 / U
K 10
US 8 / U
K 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
US 2
/
UK 6
US
4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10
US 8 /
UK 12
US 10 / U
K 14
poT ylloP
eceip tnorFdlof no 1 tuC
A
Place o
n fo
ld
Place o
n fo
ld
Place o
n fo
ld
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20US 2
/ UK 6
US
4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10U
S 8 /U
K 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12
/ UK 1
6
US 14 /
UK 18
US 16 /
UK 20
US 2
/ UK
6
US4 /
UK 8
US 6
/ UK
10
US 8 /
UK 12
US 10
/ UK
14
6 KU / 2 S U
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 S U
US 14 / UK 18
02 KU / 61 S U
8 KU / 4 S U01 KU / 6 S U21 KU / 8 S U
Grain
line
1A 1A 1B 1B 1C 1C 1D 1D
3A
6A
6A
3A 3B 3B 3C 3C 3D 3D
5A 5A 5B 5B
5C 5C
5D 5D
7A 7A 7B 7B 7C 7C 7D 7D
9A 9A
9B 9B
9C 9C
9D 9D
11A 11A 11B 11B 11C 11C 11D 11D
Test Square
6B
6B
6C
6C
6D
6D
6E
6E
8A
8A
8B
8B
8C
8C
8D
8D
8E
8E
10A
10A
10B
10B
10C
10C
10D
10D
10E
10E
4A
4A
4B
4B
4C
4C
4D
4D
4E
4E
2A
2A
2B
2B
2C
2C
2D
2D
2E
2E
Cut away excess paper around the border and then lay out your sheets, matching numbers and letters. Carefully tape together and finally either trace or cut around your size.
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4Inserting your front panel
Not only does it lend itself to endless experimentation, the front panel also gives shape to the top, therefore eliminating the need for darts at the bust - similar to the way a princess seam works.
Lay out your front piece, right side facing down. Now lay the panel, also right side facing down, into the corresponding space of the front piece.
Carefully pinch the two raw edges together, pinning the notches first, then pinning the rest of the panel into place. Remember your 5/8 or 15mm seam allowance, and go slowly around the curves, easing the fabric as you go.
Press the excess seam allowance towards the centre front, and finish either by trimming the excess with pinking shears or overlock/serge.
If youre struggling with the curve try to start sewing at the centre front, and stitch down each side of the panel one by one. This prevents the fabric moving as you ease the curves at the corners.
TIP
Joining your shoulder and side seams
Lay out the front and back pieces of your top, right sides together, and pin the shoulders.
Stitch, press open and finish the excess seam allowance.
Now pin down the side seams, right sides together, and stitch.
Press the side seams open and finish the excess seam allowance.
Its a good idea to clip the excess seam allowance at the curve of the side seams in order to let the top hang just right. TI
P
Sew off you go! (sorry, couldnt resist...)
A
A
A
B
B
B
A
A
B
B
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5Bias binding
Bias binding is the perfect way to finish the neckline and armholes of a top like this. The fact that the binding is cut on the bias means that given the diagonal weave of the fabric, it is much more malleable than fabric cut on the straight grain, and will therefore bind a curved edge smoothly, and ensconce the raw neckline, for a flawless finish.
Making your own bias binding may seem daunting, but trust us, its as simple as cutting a strip of fabric (using the pattern pieces provided, and paying special attention to the grainline) and going through the following simple steps to attach it. Homemade binding is not limited to the often poor selection of colours and fabrics available for sale, so you can either make your binding to perfectly match your main fabric and/or panel, or you could go for something entirely different to make a feature out of it!
Binding your neckline and armholes
Were going to start by binding the neckline. Turn your top inside out and lay it down with the back piece facing you.
Begin by marking the centre back of your top with a pin.
Starting just to the left of the centre back point of the neckline, begin pinning the binding, right side of the binding facing the wrong side of your top, all along the neckline. Stop when you get to just right of the centre back point. This little gap weve left at the centre back will help us when it comes to closing the binding.
Stitch the binding to the neckline with a 1/4 or 6mm from the raw edge. Remember to leave that gap!
Now with right sides of the binding together, hold the two ends against the gap along the neckline to figure out where to join them in order to perfectly cover the neckline. Pin the ends of the binding at this point.
Stitch the binding ends together at the marked point, trim the excess and press the seam open.
It will now be easy to stitch the remainder of the binding down onto the neckline, closing that gap at centre back.
C
C
C
C
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6Binding your neckline and armholes continued
Press the binding up.
Now turn your top to the right side, and were going to press the remaining raw edge of the binding in by 1/4 or 6mm.
Now fold and press the binding in again, this time along the raw edge of the neckline, pinning it into place as you go.
Carefully topstitch the binding into place from the right side of your top, getting as close as you can to the loose folded edge of the binding.
Now repeat this process for the armholes, starting just to the right of the side seams in order to match the binding seam with the side seam. Aaaaaand, phew youre done!
Hemming
The flattering tab hem featured on the Polly Top requires just a smidge more care and attention than a regular straight hem, as were dealing with curves here This technique can be applied to the hemming of any curve, and is especially useful for hemming circle skirts.
First of all, sew a line of machine stitches 5/8 or 15mm from the raw edge, all along the hemline. Not only will this act as a guideline when we come to pressing it in, but the stitches will also help to ease in the curve and create a perforated line making the folding and pressing process easier too.
Fold in and press along the stitched line, snipping into the excess hem allowance when you get to the side seams if you find that your fabric is pulling.
Now fold in the hem again and press, pinning the hem into place as you go.
Topstitch the hem from the wrong side, 1/2 or 12mm from the edge.
Ummm Congratulations, you did it!
C
C
D
D
D
-
71A
Test Square4 x 4
2A
-
1A 1A 1B
2B
8
-
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
US 2
/ UK 6
US
4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10
US 8 /
UK 12
US 10 / U
K 14
1B 1B 1C
2C
9
-
1C 1C 1D
2D
Notes
F facebook.com/ByHandLondon T @byhandlondonP pinterest.com/byhandlondonI @byhandlondon
Love what you made?
Well, show us! Post your photos in any of these online spaces so we can admire your creations.
10
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6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
6 SU 01 KU /
8 SU 1 KU / 2
SU 10 / KU 14
KU / 21 SU 16
/ 41 SU KU 18
02 KU / 61 SU
1D 1D
2E
11
-
ceN k enilgnidnib
P ylloT po
E
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
US 6 / UK 10
21 KU / 8 SU
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 SU
81 KU / 41 SU
US 16 KU / 20
Cut 1
3A
4A
2A
12
-
loP
norF1 tuC
AP
lace on
fold
6 KU / 2 S U
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 S U
US 14 / UK 18
02 KU / 61 S U
8 KU / 4 S U01 KU / 6 S U21 KU / 8 S U
3A 3A 3B
4B
2B
13
-
poT yllo
eceip tno
dlof no 1 t
A
US 2
/ UK 6
US
4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10U
S 8 /U
K 123B 3B 3C
4C
2C
14
-
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
US 10 / U
K 14
3C 3D
4D
4D
2D
15
-
DylloPpoT
elohmrAgnidnib
riap 1 tuC
Grain
line
3D 3D
4E
4E
2E
16
-
EGrain
line
US 2 / UK 6
US 4 / UK 8
US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12
US 10 / UK 14
61 KU / 21 SU
6A
6A
5A
4A
17
-
5A 5A 5B
6B
6B
4B
18
-
5B 5B
5C
6C
6C
4C
19
-
5C
5D
6D
6D
4D
20
-
5D 5D
6E
6E
4E
21
-
61 KU / 21 SU
US 14 / UK 18
61 SU / UK 20
Place o
n fo
ld
6A
7A
8A
8A
22
-
poT ylloP
eceip kcaBdlof no 1 tuC
C
7A 7A 7B
6B
8B
8B
23
-
US 2 / U
K 6
US 4 / U
K 8
US 6 / U
K 10
US 8 / U
K 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
7B 7B 7C
6C
8C
8C
24
-
6 KU / 2 SU
8 KU / 4 SU
01 KU / 6 SU
21 KU / 8 SU
41 KU / 01 SU
61 KU / 21 SU
81 KU / 41 SU
US 16 / UK 20
US 12
/ UK 1
6
US 14 /
UK 18
US 16 /
UK 20
US 2
/ UK
6
US4 /
UK 8
US 6
/ UK
10
US 8 /
UK 12
US 10
/ UK
14
7C 7D
6D
8D
8D
25
-
7D 7D
6E
8E
8E
26
-
6 KU / 2 S U
8 KU / 4 S U
Place o
n fo
ld
9A
8A
10A
10A
27
-
9A 9A
9B
8B
10B
10B
28
-
9B 9B
9C8C
10C
10C
29
-
BpoT ylloP
lenap tnorFdlof no 1 tuC
Place o
n fo
ld
9C
9D
8D
10D
10D
30
-
9D 9D
8E
10E
10E
31
-
8 KU / 4 S U
01 KU / 6 S U
21 KU / 8 S U
US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16
US 14 / UK 18
02 KU / 61 S U
11A
10A
32
-
11A 11B
10B
33
-
11B 11B 11C
10C
34
-
11C 11D
10D
35
-
US 2 / U
K 6U
S 4 / UK 8
US 6 / U
K 10U
S 8 / UK 12
US 10 / U
K 14
US 12 / U
K 16
US 14 / U
K 18
US 16 / U
K 20
11D 11D
10E
36