PLEATS......

ASSIGNMENT ON PLEATS

by: Shubhi Goel

B.Sc. Fashion designing & technology

3rd semester….

PLEATS….Definition:A pleat ( older plate ) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference . Pleats are categorized as pressed , that is , ironed or otherwise heat setting to a sharp crease , or un-pressed , falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called Tucks .

Literature :Pleats are far older than expected by most of the people.

Already in ancient egypt textiles were pleated for decorating

dresses of the rulers. Since in a permanent pleating of

natural fibers was very complicated and was only possible

while using expensive aids, they stayed more or less a

luxury until the invention of synthetic fibers.

The pleats structure enables a textile surface to be pushed

together or apart comparable to a blind, which makes them

an interesting alternative to blinds.

Origin:The concept of pleated skirts was thought during 16th century. A common style of pleats during that time was the kilt pleats , it was used to gather the fabrics of petticoats and skirts to waistbands.

Impact of grain:A. Straight grain :When we cut fabric along the direction of warp.

B. Cross grain :We generally cut fabric along the perpendicular direction to warp threads or we can tern it as cutting parallel along the weft thread . It gives moderate fall and streachablity .

C. Bias grain : We generally , cut the fabric at an angle of say x to warp of the weft threads , x can be angle between 0 to 90 accept 0 and 90 .True bias is when 0 is equal to 45 and cut it .

a. Box pleat these are knife pleats back to back and have a tendency to spring out from the waist line . They have the same 3:1 ratio as knife pleats and may also be stacked to form stacked box pleats. These create more fullness and have 5:1 ratio , they also create a bulkier seam.

b. Inverted pleats :Inverted box pleat have the box on the inside rather than the outside .

c. Knife pleats : These are used for basic gathering purposes and form a smooth line rather than springing away from the seam , they have been gathered to . The pleat have a 3:1 ratio-three inches of fabric will create one inch of finished pleats . knife pleats can be recognized by the way that they overlap in the seam.