-
The philosophy of transparency
Mans thirst for knowledge is a real, primary, spontaneous need.
A need that we of Valcucine have always met with the precise aim to
inform and share all the information in our possession, the result
of years of research and collaboration with architects and
designers, with anyone and straight away. It is an acknowledged
fact that the quality of the single components of a kitchen, as
excellent as it may be, cannot guarantee overall quality by itself.
Any programme also needs a suitably studied and planned space that
takes into account all the architectural and technical
aspects concerned and that is capable of sati-sfying the
aesthetic and functional requirements of the customer. This guide
is the result of the careful assessment and analyses of the most
common questions asked and of the comments we recieve from
retailers and planners. It is a treasure box of ideas and
suggestions to help you clearly and schematically remember the
aspects that must be weighed up and the steps that must be
fol-lowed when planning both the architectural spa-ce of a kitchen
and its furniture.
NB: The advice found in this guide complied with the Italian
laws in force when it was drawn up. For other countries and for
subsequent modifi cations, we suggest you examine the local Laws
in force as well as any amendments made to them.
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Summary6 Types of kitchens10 Planning the kitchen12 A kitchen
with a central island20 A corner kitchen28 An open space kitchen
with a peninsular unit 36 A kitchen with an island and an equipped
back section
46 Ergonomics in the kitchen48 Heights and depths of base
units50 80cm depth: Logica System55 Equipped back section60 Wall
units62 Wall-hung base units
66 Sizes and dimensions68 Measuring the wall70 Problems at the
end of an arrangement72 Kitchen corners74 Height of the window
sill76 Water drainage and connections80 Plastering82 Flooring and
tiles
86 Aeration holes88 Check valve90 Hoods: types and dimensions92
Remote motor93 Extraction pipes94 Existing hole95 Useful
measurements for Valcucine hoods
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104 Electric sockets106 Artifi cial kitchen lighting 107 Natural
kitchen lighting
110 Child safety
116 The Valcucine home system
134 The kitchens
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planning guide6
What types of kitchens are there?
The in-line kitchenThis is an effi cient solution for long,
narrow rooms. All the kitchen cabinets are installed along one wall
and a space lar-ge enough to walk around in is left on the opposite
side.
If the room is long but suffi -ciently wide, worktops and
cabinets can be installed along both walls.
The in-line kitchen on two sides
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planning guide 7
C-shaped kitchenAllows you to optimise move-ments within the
space marked off by the worktops. Sliding doors conceal the work
area and make it possible to create an exclusive dining room.
It allows you to have a large work area in a compact spa-ce. The
elements are installed on three sides. Contrarily to the C-shaped
kitchen, there is not enough space inside the U-shaped arrangement
for a table.
U-shaped kitchen
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planning guide8
Kitchen with an islandIt requires a lot of space and, if a sink
and a hob are fi tted as well as the worktop, it re-quires very
detailed planning of the electric and plumbing systems.
The peninsular unit is a han-dy additional unit that
articu-lates the space in a kitchen. The projecting element can
give you extra worktop space, can house a sink and/or hob and can
also be fi tted with a breakfast bar.
Kitchen with a peninsular unit
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planning guide 9
The corner kitchenThe elements are installed along two adjoining
kitchen walls. The sink, the hob and the fridge must be relatively
near to each other so as to reduce distances and make it easier to
carry out various kitchen chores.
All the kitchens described up to now can be divided into
sepa-rate functional parts. The fl exi-bility of the system
composed of separate units allows you to create a kitchen that, not
being tied to a set drawing, is able to adapt to various
architectural shapes.
A kitchen composed of separate units
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planning guide10
You cant always change the architectural shape of a kitchen, but
many arrangements are possi-ble in the same room. It is a matter of
fi nding the most suitable solution from an aesthetical and
functional point of view. Four projects showing different types of
kitchens can be seen in the following pages:
1 a kitchen with a central island2 a corner kitchen3 a kitchen
with a peninsular unit in an open
space4 a kitchen with an island and an equipped
back section.
The following information is given for each type of kitchen: -
the aesthetic project rendering shows the kitchen with its colours,
materials and sha-pes; - the architectural project with its top and
side view drawing that defi nes all the mason-ry and architectural
features of the kitchen and that is required by the builder to
build walls, windows, aeration holes and the hood
fumes outlet as well as by the plasterboard worker to build
plassterboard parts. It is also useful to the window and door fi
tter to know where to install door and window frames and also to
the tiler to know up to what height he must tile the wall and what
type of decorative tiling he can apply; - a top view and
cross-section drawing of the plumbing system who will install water
and gas pipes and radiators, if any; - a top view and cross-section
drawing of the electric system that is indispensable for the
electrician so that he knows where he can run cables, where sockets
and switches can be fi tted, where to arrange connections for
intercom systems, thermostats, telephones, tv sets, the hood and
under wall unit lights.
NB: we do not use specific technical sym-bols for electric and
hydraulic systems in our projects, rather an indicative set of
symbols that have the aim of guiding the technicians in their
work.
How can I plan my kitchen?
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planning guide 11
Kitchen with a central islandPages: 12 - 19
Corner kitchenPages: 20 - 27
Open space kitchen with a peninsular unit Pages: 28 - 35
Kitchen with an island and an equipped back section Pages: 36 -
43
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planning guide12
If the room is large enough, the kitchen with an island is the
best possible solution in terms of functionality and ae-sthetics.
It gives you lots of freedom of movement and the pleasure of
working looking over the dining area. The island beco-mes the heart
of the kitchen and, together with the celing-hung hood and other
elemen-ts, creates a stunning setting.The rendering offers a
realistic view of the arrangement and allows you to ponder choices
in terms of volumes, colours and fi nishes.
The aesthetic project
A kitchen with a central island
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planning guide 13
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planning guide14
Hood fumes outlet 15
CENTERLINE OF SYMMETRY
A
B 735
420
130
640
B
A
X
Y
J
K
120
Aeration hole 12
hob
cent
erlin
e
The architectural projectA kitchen with an island re-quires lots
of attention from a planning point of view.If possible, it is best
to defi-ne the position of each single element and their sizes in
the planning phase of the kitchen. The architectural drawing in its
top and front view must inclu-de the measurements of the
furniture, of the walls and of the aeration holes that must be
precise to the centimeter.
If the project of the building al-lows for it, it is a good idea
to plan for the hood fumes outlet in the ceiling, above the hob.
The co-ordinates of the ceiling fumes outlet centerline must
be calculated in the following way: - crosswise, add to the
distance of the island from the wall (X), a distance (J) that will
vary de-pending on the type of hood (J is equal to 35cm for the
most common types of hood).- lengthwise, add to the distan-ce of
the island from the wall
(Y), the distance to the hob centerline (K). This way it will be
possible to fi t the hood fl ue perpendicularly to the ceiling
without the need for curved pi-pes that are often concealed by
unisghtly false walls.
A kitchen with a central island: how can I plan it?
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planning guide 15
SECTION A-A
SECTION B-B
Hood fumesoutlet 15
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole 12
The island requires a working space of about 120 cm. This is the
optimal space neces-sary to simultaneoulsy and comfortably open the
doors of the island and of any tower units installed along the
wall. (In any case, the minimum space required for working is 100
cm).
To calculate the distance of the island from the wall it is
neces-sary to add 120 cm to the dep-th of any elements installed
against the wall (wall panels, towers or worktops).
For good hood extraction, the fl ue outlet must have a diame-ter
of at least 15 cm.
If possible, to minimise the impact of the motor noise, it is
preferable to choose a hood with a motor that can be in-stalled
outside the kitchen (see page 92).
For an excellent aesthetic re-sult, consider the possibility of
arranging the kitchen elements
in an aligned and symmetric way.
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planning guide16
Electric socket
Wall panels
A
B B
A
Y
X J
K
Hood power supply
Power supply for:- refrigerator- ovens
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher
hob
cent
erlin
e
Electric board for:- TV set power supply- TV antenna- electric
socket- spotlight switch
Power supply to ceiling lights
The electric systemIt is of fundamental importan-ce to decide
the exact position of the island in the planning phase. This way it
will be pos-sible to precisely determine:- the ceiling outlet of
the power supply cables for the hood (adjacent to the fumes outlet
described on page 14);- fl oor connection outlets for
the power supply of the hob, of the oven and of any sockets on
the worktops. The fl oor outlets must remain within the 8 cm
service gap created by fi tting two 60 cm base units (of which one
has a sink) back-to-back, or within the 5 cm gap created by 35/60
60
5/8
30
k
sink
cen
terli
ne
area to use for cable
outlets on the floor
service gap between two
base unit
A kitchen with a central island: how can I plan the electric
system?
A
A
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planning guide 17
SECTION B-B
SECTION A-A
80
25
115
Boiserie Hood power supply
Electric board for:- TV set power supply- TV antenna- electric
socket- spotlight switch
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher
Hood power supply
Power supply for:- refrigerator- ovens
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher
Electric socket
Aluminium cable guard (on request)
Floor cable outlet
installing a 60 cm sink base unit and a 35 cm base unit
back-to-back (see fi g.A).If the kitchen is raised on a sup-port,
Valcucine supplies an alu-minium guard measuring 30 cm in length to
conceal and protect electric wiring. The cable outlets must thus be
planned to come out behind this guard.
Due to the fact that sockets must be accessible, the electric
cables should come out below the sink because this is the only base
unit that does not have a back panel. The exact position of the
table allows you to determine the outlet of the cables on the
cei-ling for a ceiling light.
The Valcucine wall panelling has been designed to have the TV
and telephone sockets exactly where you need them while concealing
the wiring in the gap in the back. Therefore, if you decide to
install a TV set or a stereo or if you want to fi t shelves with
led lights, a cable outlet can be provided in any
position on the wall because it will then be covered by the wall
panelling.
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planning guide18
Hood fumes outlet 15
A
B
B
A
X Y
J
K
hob
cent
erlin
e
Aeration hole 12
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
The plumbing systemThe water and gas supply and discharge pipe
outlets must be centred in the 8 cm service gap created by fi tting
two 60 cm base units (of which one is a sink base unit)
back-to-back or in the 5 cm gap created by fi tting a 60 cm sink
base unit against a 35 cm base unit. In a longitudinal direction
they
must be centred on the cen-terline of the sink and must fall
within 30 cm (corresponding to the length of the pipe guard
supplied on request by Valcu-cine if the kitchen is raised on
supports).
area to use for pipe outlets on
the floor
30
k
35/60 60 5/8
sink
ce
nter
line
service gap between two
base unit
A kitchen with a central island: how can I plan the plumbing
system?
A
A
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planning guide 19
Hood fumes outlet 15
Hood fumes outlet 15
SECTION B-B
SECTION A-A
Aeration hole 12
Floor pipe outlet
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
For excellent hood extraction it is necessary to provide a 15 cm
diameter fl ue pipe whose centerline must be calculated as
described on page 14.
It is very important to consi-der the correct aeration of the
kitchen through the aeration holes in the wall that must be
sized according to the laws in force (see page 86).
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planning guide20
Due to the fact that it is arran-ged on two adjacent sides, the
corner kitchen must be planned by creating logical connections
between the various functional areas to make work in the kitchen
run as smoothly as possible. A perspective view shows the real
space, allowing you to as-sess the position of the single elements,
the colour scheme, the combination of materials and the
lighting.
The aesthetic project
The corner kitchen
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planning guide 21
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planning guide22
The architectural project
61
190
115
80
386
440
38 182 38 83
205
D
B A
D
B A
C C
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aerationhole 12
Often one fi nds oneself in the position of planning kitchen
furniture after the kitchen has already been built and the wal-ls
have been constructed in a hapdash way, with drains and electric
sockets that do not fol-low a logical kitchen project. The
inevitable consequence is that the kitchen furniture has
+1cm thickness for possible wall claddings.
the two adjacent walls must be checked, and these must be
measured at a height of 90cm (see page 73), to avoid major problems
during assembly.When planning kitchen fur-niture it is necessary to
con-sider a tolerance of +1cm for possible imperfections in the
straightness of the walls, and
to be adapted to the architec-ture which often calls for co-stly
custom-sized units.The correct method is to plan the kitchen
furniture first by defi ning the position of each element and the
exact size of the modules. For a corner kitchen, fi rst of all the
perfect perpendicularity of
The corner kitchen: how can I plan it?
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planning guide 23
56
82
SECTION C-C SECTION D-D
SECTION B-BSECTION A-A Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole 12
Plasterboard filler
If you want to add a free-stan-ding fridge with a water and ice
dispenser it is necessary to plan a space suffi cient for the
convex door to open properly (see page 68), as well as for the
socket and the water sup-ply/drain tap to be located near the
appliance.Another very impotant element
the type of hood (see pages 96 to page 101).
On either side of tower units a plasterboard wall creates an
alcove-fi tted effect. This must be made-to-measure after the tower
units have been instal-led.
To install a worktop under the window, it is necessary to
cal-culate the right height of the window sill (see page 74) and
the position of the tap. If the hood is wall-hung, it is advisable
to make a fumes outlet hole on the same wall, taking into account
that its po-sition will vary depending on
to consider is the size of the side panel against a door: it is
calculated by adding +2cm to the depth of the kitchen up to the
door frame (see page 72).
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planning guide24
D B
A
D B
A
C C
Switches
Fridge power supply
Power supply for tower unit light
Power supply for ceiling light
Hood power supply
Socket for back section
Wall light
Electric board for:- hob- oven- dishwasher
Power supply
for wall unit light
Switch for ceilng light
The electric systemThe electric system can be defined only after
the exact position of all the units, of the appliances and of the
table have been decided. The plan of the electrical sy-stem has the
aim of precisely defi ning all the light points, the sockets, the
intercom con-nections, the thermostats, the
ces and for the back section are managed. It is a good idea to
divide the sockets in the electric board and give each a separate
switch to prevent a failure of one appliance jeopar-dising the use
of all the other sockets.
them not very accessible. To guarantee practical socket
inspection it is advisable to collect them all together in a single
electric board located behind the sink base unit, the only one
without a back panel (see page 104).It is from here that the
various power supply lines for applian-
telephone and the TV antenna sockets. This is the only way for
the electrician to create a rational and aesthetically plea-sing
system.
Often household appliances are connected to sockets lo-cated
behind the furniture, at 17.5 cm from the fl oor, making
The corner kitchen: how can I plan the electric system?
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planning guide 25
SECTION D-D
SECTION B-BSECTION A-A
SECTION C-C
Hood power supplyFridge power supply
Back section power supply
25
170
110
Tower light power supplyCeiling light switch Switches and light
socket
Wall light power supplyElectric boardWall unit light power
supply
It is advisable to provide for a cable outlet concealed behind
the wall units for a light or for a midway socket (see page
105).
If a back section is not fi tted, provide for sockets on the
back panel of the kitchen to connect small appliances. For safety
reasons it is best to
The fridge with a water and ice dispenser requires an electric
socket located alongside the appliance.
switch located on the back pa-nel of the kitchen.
The cable outlet for the hood must be selected in complian-ce
with the type of hood cho-sen and is usually located just above the
appliance so that it becomes invisible (see pages 96 to 101).
keep sockets at a minimum di-stance of 60 cm from the hob and
sink (see page 105).
Due to the fact that the kitchen can also be illuminated by the
hood light and by the lights at the bottom of the wall units it is
a good idea to collect their power supply under a single
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planning guide26
D
B
A
D
B
A
C C
Aeration hole 12
Cold water supply for fridgeDrain
Hood fumes outlet 15
Gas supplyWater supplyDrain
The plumbing systemIt is of fundamental impor-tance to decide
the position of the units and of the ap-pliances before planning
the plumbing system of a corner kitchen, especially if you want to
fi t special appliances such as an American-style refrige-rator.To
install this type of fridge
through the back section, the gas pipe can reach the hob. The
back section can also con-tain the gas safety cock. (see pages
55,59).
The back section will allow the water and gas pipes to come out
at any point in the wall behind the kitchen. Nevertheless, it is a
good idea for the piping to come out of the wall behind the sink
base unit because it is the only rea-dily accessible place without
a back panel. From here and
with an automatic water and ice dispenser it is necessary to
plan for a water supply/drain tap alongside the appliance. The
connection pipe must be made from a foodsafe mate-rial.
The corner kitchen: how can I plan the plumbing system?
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planning guide 27
56
SECTION C-C
SECTION B-BSECTION A-A
SECTION D-D
Hood fumes outlet 15 Water supply for fridge
40
DrainGas supply
Water supply
Aeration hole 12
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planning guide28
A single kitchen-living room area is increasingly becoming the
new trend. The open space has become the heart of the home, be it a
loft or a bedsitter, an apartment fl at or a single house. The
versatility of the Valcucine programmes guarantees the possibility
of personalising and constructing the living room, of integrating
the functions and of co-ordinating elemen-ts, modules and
materials. For example, the Valcucine wall panels can be fitted in
the kitchen and in the living room or can be used as a way of
visually connecting various rooms of the home. It is possible to
co-ordinate the appearance of an open space arrangement by using
furniture that aesthetically links the kitchen and the li-ving room
but that is fi tted with the specifi c functional elements used in
each area.
The aesthetic project
An open space kitchen with a peninsular unit
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planning guide 29
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planning guide30
535
635
A
B B
A
76
Opening on false ceiling for hot air discharge from fridge
Aerationhole 12
Hood fumes outlet 15
The architectural projectIn an open space every detail must be
carefully planned be-cause the kitchen shares the space with the
living room and becomes the heart of the home, the place where you
spend most of your time and where you give hospitality to your
friends. For a good ae-sthetic result, special attention
with the walls, or with doors or windows to create a logical
distinction of the two areas. In an open space it makes sen-se to
install tower units so that they look as if they are alcove-fi
tted, fl ush with the wall. If you want to fi t refrigerators
inside tower units that are as tall as the ceiling, it will be
necessary
top of a wall. At this stage, if you want to conceal the fl ue
pipe, you will be obliged to build a false ceiling. Due to the fact
that we are planning a kitchen-living room, we could take advantage
of the need to conceal the fl ue pipe by lowe-ring the ceiling
above the enti-re kitchen area and aligning it
must be paid to the hood fl ue that should be concealed and to
the tower units that should be fi tted inside an alcove. If it isnt
possible to make a fumes outlet in the ceiling and if you dont want
to do without an island hood, the hood must be connected to the
existing outlet that is usually at the
An open space kitchen with a pensinular unit: how can I plan
it?
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planning guide 31
25
SECTION A-A
SECTION B-B
False ceiling
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole 12
Aeration hole in false ceiling
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole 12
to make holes to allow the hot air generated by refrigeration to
escape. The aeration holes must have a minimum total surface of 400
cm. There are some refrigerators on the market that do not require
these holes because they are designed so that cold air en-ters half
of the plinth while hot
space must be left to open the door. This space will then be
concealed with a filler (see pages 70,71).
air exits the other half. The plasterboard wall must be
made-to-measure depending on the height of the tower units. If a
tower unit is installed in the corner against a side wall, knobs or
vertical hand-les must be used instead of horizontal handles or
enough
2
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planning guide32
A
B B
A
J
Y
K
= =
IntercomCeiling light switchThermostat
Electric board for:- power supply to TV- TV antenna- electric
socket- spotlight switch
SocketSwitchesBranch pointsfor hood and falseceiling lights
Power supply for wall lights
Power supply for ceiling light
Power supply for oven
Power supply for fridge
Cable outlet for hood andceiling light
Cable outlet for electric board
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher- power supply to back
section
Power supply for wall light
hob centerline
The electric systemThe false ceiling used to conceal the hood fl
ue pipe is also useful to hide the electric connections that come
out of the wall and that power the hood and the lights above the
worktop and above the table. We suggest you choose the position of
the table before de-ciding the position of the cable
is usually located below the sink, a socket will be required
behind the appliance. The electric cable outlet from the false
ceiling to power the hood must be located near the fumes outlet
(see page 34).
outlet for the ceiling light to avoid having to use unsightly
ceiling extension cables for a perfectly centred light. If your
table is more than 150 cm long, it is advisable to pro-vide for
more than one light.
If the oven and fridge are too far from the electric board,
that
A kitchen with a peninsular unit: how can I plan the electric
system?
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planning guide 33
80
Cable outlet for hood
Cable outlet from false ceiling for hood
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher- back section
Cable outlet for electric board
Power supply for hood
Oven power supply
Fridge power supplyElectric board for:- hob- dishwasher- back
section
Electric board for:- power supply to TV- TV antenna- electric
socket- spotlight switch
SECTION A-A
SECTION B-B
Y2
Y1
11
equipped back section
area to usefor cable
outlets fromthe wall
Due to the fact that the penin-sular unit has an equipped back
section, the electric cables must come out of the wall behind the
back section. After the exact position of the back section has been
decided, the electric cables must fall within the 11cm gap,
measured across the center-line of the back section and in
an area comprised between Y1 and Y2 (see fi g.A) that varies
depending on the height of the base unit (see pages 76 to 79). From
here the cables will be di-rected below the sink where they will
become part of an electric board to which the various ap-pliances
will be connected (see page 104).
A
A
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planning guide34
A
B B
A
J
Y
K
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole 12
Fumes outlet on false ceiling
hobcenterline
The plumbing systemFor the island hood, the ceiling co-ordinates
for the centerline of the fumes outlet are calcula-ted in the
following way: - crosswise to the top, the va-riable (J) , which
depends on the type of hood chosen (J is equal to 35 cm for most
hoods) must be added to the distance
For good hood extraction, the pipe must also be carefully chosen
and positioned (see page 93).
A gas cock can be fitted in a compartment in the back section
behind the hob (see page 59).
of the peninsular unit from the wall.- lengthwise to the top,
now measure the distance from the wall to the hob centerline (K).
In this position, a fl ue pipe will run to the flue outlet in the
wall, concealed by the false ceiling.
Kitchen with a peninsular unit: how can I plan the plumbing
system?
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planning guide 35
25
Aeration hole 12
SECTION A-A
Hood fumes outlet 15Hood fumes outlet on plasterboard
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
Aeration hole 12
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole in false ceiling
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
SECTIONB-B
area used forpipe outlets
from the wall
Y2
Y1
11
equippedback section The plumbing pipes must also
come out of the wall behind back section. The pipes must fall
within the 11cm gap, measured across the centerline of the back
sec-tion and in an area comprised between Y1 and Y2 (see fi g.A)
that varies depending on the height of the base unit (see
pages 76 to 79). It is very im-portant to remember that the
drain pipe must always be fi t-ted in the lowest position. The
pipes will run from the wall to the sink base unit.
A
A
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planning guide36
The perspective view clearly re-veals the most signifi cant
fea-tures of this new arrangement with an island. It is complete
from a functional viewpoint: as well as the hob, the worktop and
the sink, it has a wooden breakfast bar and a back pa-nel with
various accessories. Clean lines, pure volumes, light materials and
an advanced er-gonomic study distinguish this project. The island
hood with its steel casing has a horizontal glass panel and a front
one that con-tain and convey the cooking fumes and protect the
wooden breakfast bar when cooking.
The aesthetic project
A kitchen with an island and an equipped back section
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planning guide 37
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planning guide38
Aeration hole 12
Hood fumesoutlet 15
A
B B
485
650
405
Y 65
A X K
120
10
hob centerline
back
sect
ion
cent
erlin
e
The architectural projectAs well as being aesthetical-ly
pleasing, a kitchen with an island is particularly practical to use
because of the logical arran-gement of all its elements. The new
island has a 20 cm deep back section in stainless steel that stands
directly on the fl oor and is located alongside the sink base unit
and behind
- crosswise, the distance of the front of the island from the
wall (Y) is added to the depth of the base units (65cm) and of the
back section centerline (10cm).
Valcucine to the vertical side of the back section.
The exact position of the fl ue outlet centerline for the Vitrum
hood is determined in the fol-lowing way: - lengthwise, the
distance of the island from the wall (X) is added to the hob
centerline (K)
the island. The back section gi-ves more freedom to position the
electric and plumbing fl oor outlets because these can run inside
it. The fact that the back section is higher than the worktop turns
it into a protection from splashing water and makes it possible to
fi x the special tap designed by
The kitchen with an island and back section: how can I plan
it?
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planning guide 39
Hood fumes outlet 15
Aeration hole 12
Hood fumes outlet 15
SECTION B-B
SECTION A-A
Due to the fact that it is an island arrangement, the si-zes of
the various elements and the necessary distances between them must
be care-fully planned to best exploit all its potential. The island
requires a surrounding spa-ce of about 120cm which is the optimal
distance required
to simultaneoulsy open the doors of the base units and of any
tower units installed along the wall (at least 100cm are
needed).
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planning guide40
A
B B
A
Y 65
10
Electric socket
Power supply for:- wine-cellar fridge- fridge- ovens
Switches
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher- back section
Power supply for Vitrum hood
back
sect
ion
cent
erlin
e
A kitchen with island and back section: how can I plan the
electric system?
13
7
5
area usable for floor cable outlets
A
The electric system If the kitchen has an island and a fl
oor-standing equip-ped back section, the electric cables can come
out along the back section in the 13 cm wide empty space below the
accessories (in fi g. A, the green coloured area). The centerline
of the spa-ce that can be used for the
electric cables must be calcu-lated by adding 75cm (depth of the
base unit + distance to the back section centerline) to the
distance of the island from the wall (Y).
A
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planning guide 41
25
SECTION B-B
SECTION A-A
Power supply for hood
Power supply for:- wine-cellar fridge- fridge- ovens
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher- back section
Power supply for hood
Electric board for:- hob- dishwasher- back section
Electric socket
To power the new P20 hood the electric cables must come out into
the steel fl ue casing, as described on page 101.
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planning guide42
A
B B
X A
K
Y 65
10
Aeration hole 12
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
bak
sect
ion
cent
erlin
e
hob centerline
Hood fumes outlet 15
The plumbing systemThe plumbing connections must be effected in
the 13cm wide empty space in the back section (see fi g.A). The
cen-terline of the space that can be used for the pipes must be
cal-culated by adding 75cm (dep-th of base unit + back section
centerline) to the distance of the island from the wall (Y).
From here, the pipes can run through the back section until they
reach destination.
13
75
area usable for floor pipe outlets
swivel mixer tap
A kitchen with an island and a back section: how can I plan the
plumbing system?
A
A
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planning guide 43
SECTION B-B
SECTION A-A
Hood fumes outlet 15
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
Aeration hole 12
Hood fumes outlet 15
Gas supplyWater supplyDishwasher supplyDrain
If the room and the type of hood allow for it, it is prefera-ble
to install the hood motor outside the kitchen to elimi-nate any
annoying extraction noise. All the Valcucine hoods give you this
opportunity (see page 92).
The new single-lever mixer tap can be fi xed to the new 20 cm
deep back section. It has a swivel and fold-down neck and a
rotating glass spout, designed by Valcucine (see fi gure).
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planning guide46
How should an ergonomic kitchen be planned?
Ergonomic routesWorking in the kitchen can be very tiring,
notwithstan-ding the help given by many accessories and by
electrical appliances. Good space orga-nisation can reduce
obstacles and unnatural and useless movements. Arranging various
kitchen areas by respecting distances
the three sides that connect them should not exceed 650 cm. In
an ideal kitchen arrange-ment, the three areas should be divided by
worktops.
and organising logical routes is the starting point to make work
in the kitchen creative and fun. A simple rule is to connect the
preserving area (larders, re-frigerator), the washing area (sink,
dishwasher) and the cooking area (hob), by means of small
triangles. The sum of
SINKREFRIGERATOR
worktop
HOB
worktop worktop
PRESERVING
COOKING
WASHING
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planning guide 47
What are the minimum distances to be respected?
A - A distance of 120 cm between the table and a wall or any
other obstacle is the minimum distance required to allow a person
to walk behind a seated one, in the direction shown in the
drawing.
D - A free space of one me-tre must be left in front of the
dishwasher to allow for loading and unloading. For another person
to walk behind the fi rst one during this ope-ration, the empty
space must be increased by an additional 70cm if there is a wall on
the opposite side.
C - To determine the distances to leave between the worktops and
other elements situated in front of them, it is necessary to keep
in mind the space requi-red for people to move around and of the
room taken up by appliances and base units with their drawers or
doors open.
B - To allow a person to work and even open doors and drawers
behind a person sea-ted, it is necessary to leave a minimum
distance of 135cm between the edge of the table and the unit behind
it. If the unit is 80cm deep, this di-stance must be increased by
15cm.
A B
C D
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planning guide48
How can I choose the height of the worktop?
To work standing before a worktop that is too low or too high
obliges the person to as-sume incorrect postures that, in the long
run, can have se-rious consequences on physi-cal health. Due to the
fact that the average height of mankind is increasing, it is
advisable to offer worktop heights that vary
sockets, the position of the wall units and the height of the
hood fl ue outlet.
depending on the needs of the user. This way, he/she will work
more comfortably. Valcucine offers various work-top heights
depending on the height of the person. It is important to choose
the height of the worktop at the outset because it determines the
position of the electric
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planning guide 49
At what height should wall units be hung?
Traditional 60cm deep base units have now evolved towar-ds
greater and more ergono-mic depths. Valcucine offers the 65cm depth
and the 80cm deep system. By increasing the depth of the base
units, it is possible to lower the wall units, that will be in a
more ergono-mic position.
C - The 80cm depth, consisting in a special equipped back
sec-tion and a 60 cm base unit, gives better visibility on the
worktop. The recommended distance of the wall units from the
worktop is 42cm. The contents of the wall unit are completely
visible and accessible even on the top shelves.
B - By increasing the depth of the base unit to 65 cm, it is
pos-sible to lower the wall unit that is then easier to see and
reach. This gives you more freedom of movement and better
visi-bility on the worktop. The re-commended height of the back
panel is 48 cm.
A - For the traditional 60cm depth, the recommended hei-ght of
the back panel is 54cm, which is required to allow for suffi cient
visibility of the work-top. However, the wall unit creates a couped
up feeling and its position makes it diffi cult to see and take the
contents out.
A B C
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planning guide50
A - With the traditional 60cm depth, even if the back panel is
higher, the wall unit gives you a claustrophobic feeling and blocks
the view of the worktop during food preparation.
B - The 80cm depth offers the possibility of working on a larger
surface, at a safe distan-ce from sharp edges and wall units,
eliminating that couped up feeling and giving you more freedom of
movement whi-le improving the view on the worktop that can now be
used to the full.
A B
C - A traditional wall unit is usually installed at a height
that prvents you from having a complete view of the objects located
on the top shelf, making it diffi cult to use, espe-cially for
short people.
D - The 80cm depth allows you to stand further away from the
wall units which can now be lowered, making them more visible and
accessible and increasing the space in front of them.
C D
What are the advantages of the 80cm depth and of the Logica
System?
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planning guide 51
G - The dish drainer instal-led at a traditional height is
awkward to use: the move-ment to put the plates away is unnatural
and tiring and it is inevitable for water to drip down your arm.
The dish drai-ner attached to the wall unit is also diffi cult to
clean.
H - The 80cm depth makes it possible to fi t the dish drainer
inside the back panel, behind the sink. It is possible to put the
plates to drain without ti-ring yourself and without wa-ter
dripping down your arm. The dish drainer is connected directly to
the trap for water drainage.
G H
F - The balanced lift-up door can stay open all the time
necessary and allows you to move around sideways and bend over with
no fear of bum-ping or banging your head.
E - Wall units with traditionally opening doors are an obstacle
and give you a closed-in fee-ling. Furthermore, due to the fact
that the door often re-mains open, it is extremely likely that you
will bump your head when moving around.
E F
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planning guide52
L - The new Libera hood, with its upward sweeping shape, frees
all the underlying space and allows you to approach the hob area
easily and safely to check on the cooking pro-cess.
I - In traditional kitchens, the hood is usually too near to
your face and this stops you from looking over the pots and pans to
check the cooking process.
I L
N - The new ergonomic Valcu-cine system consists in a P20 hood
that gives you freedom of movement and in an integrated system of
containers that allow you to keep the various kitchen utensils
right behind the hob, just where you need them.
M - Kitchens with a 60cm deep top, as well as having the hood
too near to your face, do not give you enough space to keep
utensils and objects used for cooking at hands reach.
M N
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planning guide 53
The new ergonomic P20 system
In general the back of the worktop is not used in tradi-tional
kitchens. Valcucine, with its 80cm deep worktop, makes the most of
this space and exploits it by fitting the back section and by
adding practical and functional containers that are perfectly
integrated with the worktop.
pliances, a chopping board, electric sockets, various ki-tchen
utensils and small shel-ves and racks.
The containers are 20cm deep (like the equipped back sec-tion
and the P20 hood). They are available in sizes that differ both in
width and in length and can be fi tted between the worktop and the
P20 hood, or between the worktop and the wall units. They can
contain small ap-
Spice-rack
Electric sockets
P20 hood
Crumb vacuum
Mini blender
Rolling pin
Toaster Chopping boardShelves
The P20 system
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planning guide54
B - With the pullout jumbo drawer, the entire contents of the
base units is visible, more accessible and easy to reach. Valcucine
offers base units with full-extension, 80cm deep jumbo drawers,
with or without an equipped back section.
A - Traditional base units with doors and shelves oblige you to
kneel down and get into awkward positions (that in the long run may
cause serious physical problems), to take or put away objects that
are usually stored in an almost inaccessible corner or in a
scarcely-lit area.
Which are easier to use? Base units with doors or with jumbo
drawers?
A B
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planning guide 55
The Valcucine equipped back section
The equipped back section is a 20cm wide area inside which
plumbing and electrical con-nections can be made, giving the
interior designer freedom to install the sink and the hob at a
certain distance from the positions imposed by the wa-ter and gas
supply outlets. Valcucine uses three types of
- a steel back section welded to the top (see page 123): it can
be used against the wall or in a kitchen with an island or a
peninsular unit. It becomes one with the top, and due to the fact
that it is does not have seals, is easier to clean.
ges 116,117): ideal for use in the centre of the room. It has a
steel fi nished back panel that reaches the fl oor. It protrudes by
18cm above the top and thus acts as an upstand to contain splashing
water. The new swivel tap (see page 43) can be fi xed to the
section over looking the sink;
back sections: - an aluminium back section (see pages 126,127):
it can be fi tted between the base units and the wall, or used in a
cen-tral island (in this case it must be finished using a wooden
back panel combined with a wooden snack bar;- a steel back section
(see pa-
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planning guide56
The back section can be fi tted with a set of containers ha-ving
precise functions that are normally scattered around the kitchen: a
dish and glass rack; compartments with sockets and gas cocks; knife
and chop-ping-board racks; food bowls in various sizes; digital
weighing scales; bottle and spice racks,
a detergent holder and a small blender; a vacuum pump
con-tainer. All the elements can be remo-ved for easy cleaning,
some are dishwasher safe. The back section is modular to suit
re-quirements and allows you to work more comfortably with
everything on hand.
Electric sockets
Food bowls
Vacuum pum
Gas cock Weighing DishdrainerContainer with lift-up door
Chopping board+knife rack
What can I fi t in the back section?
All the accessories can be removed. Some are dishwasher
safe.
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planning guide 57
The equipped back section accessories
A - Removable and dishwasher safe stainless steel dish and glass
racks.The hygiene of this system is ensured because it is
con-nected directly to the trap for direct water drainage.
D - Stainless steel food bowls in various sizes with lids, easy
to remove and dishwasher safe. So that everything is on hand when
preparing and coo-king food.
C - A compartment with a lift-up door and a wooden
bottle-rack.
B - Container with a lift-up door and natural wooden shelves
with slots for knives that are stored in a safe blade-down
position.
A B
C D
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planning guide58
E - Compartment with lift-up door, socket and a mini blender
housing.
H - Container for the vacuum pump, an appliance which extracts
the air from special containers to guarantee better tasting food
and more healthy food preservation.
G - Compartment with lift-up door and multilayer laminate
container for practical storage of the glass spice-jars supplied by
Valcucine.
F - Electronic weighing scales in stainless steel with a
capa-city of up to 2 Kg and a 1 gr. weighing precision. They have a
tare function so that you can weigh food in its containers. The new
weighing scales are ready to use at any time.
spezie
spezie
spezie
E F
G H
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planning guide 59
I - Compartment for electric sockets fitted with a switch to
connect small appliances or fixed appliances. Thanks to its
generous size it can also contain the lead which may become a
nuisance if left on the worktop.
N - A container with a lift-up door to fit a rack for small
wooden and non-toxic tefl on chopping boards and for the rolling
pin.
M - Aluminium containers with lift-up doors, the ideal place to
store everything you need to clean your kitchen and keep detergents
out of the rea-ch of children.
L - Compartment with a lift-up door for easy and handy ac-cess
to the gas cock, usually located in a place too awkward to reach
and turn off every day.
I L
M N
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planning guide60
What is the most comfortable way to open a wall unit?
A - The wall unit with a balanced lift-up door guarantees great
prac-ticality and freedom of movement and allows you to work safely
even when the door is open. The oleodynamic balancing pistons allow
you to open the door with a light upward touch of the hand.
B - The width of the Aerius wall unit can vary with requirements
and can reach a maximum of 3 metres for a single unit. In the
chipboard or multilayer carcass versions the vertical interior
divi-ders are eliminated.
A - The wall unit fi tted with a pa-tented balanced opening
system ensures practicality and freedom of movement and allows you
to move around safely, even when the door is open. A balancing
mechanism adjusts opening and closing speed so that this very light
door can be opened with a light upward touch of the hand.
B - The wall unit with horizon-tally-folding doors reduces the
space taken up by normal wall unit doors that are an obstacle to
movement and to sight. It is easy to open them thanks to a system
of hinges and sliding runners.
Ergonomic opening methods The Valcucine Aerius wall unit
A
B
A
B
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planning guide 61
A - The patented Ala wall unit opens with a light movement of
the hand thanks to an inside counterweight and without the use of
hinges, springs or pi-stons. Contrarily to traditional systems, the
open door isnt an obstacle to the vertical or side movements of the
hou-seholder.
D - Storage space and the view of the householder have been
increased Bby removing the vertical dividers inside the wall
unit.
C - By opening a single door, the entire unit is available and
remains ready to use all the time, eliminating tiresome door
opening and closing movements. When you have fi nished, the door
shuts with a single touch of the hand and everything is tidy
again
B - The width of the Ala wall unit can vary with the
requi-rements of the customer and can reach 240cm in a single unit.
We suggest you install it by itself, separate from other kitchen
elements, to make the most of its unique looks.
The Valcucine Ala wall unit
A
B
C
D
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planning guide62
Wall-hung base unit
Base unit with plinth
Wall-hung baseunit
Base unit with plinth
Floor-heating
Which is best? A kitchen with a plinth or a wall-hung
kitchen?
Support for wall-hung base units
Load-bearing wall
Partition wall
Support for wall-hung base units with feet
A - A wall-hung kitchen makes cleaning under the furniture
really easy. A kitchen with a plinth is less easy to clean so that
perfect hygiene is not possible. Even if you cant see it, the dirt
ac-cumulates behind the plinth which, although it has a gasket,
cannot ensure a perfect seal.
B - The wall-hung kitchen is ideal for fl oor-heating because it
removes all obstacles for per-fect heat diffusion.
C - Steel L-shaped supporting brackets are supplied to fi x a
kitchen to a load-bearing wall. To avoid accidentally drilling the
pipes inside the wall it is impor-tant to use an instrument that
detects their exact position.
D - If the base units are fi xed to an interior partition wall,
add feet to support part of the weight. It is advisable to fi t a
quantity of feet that guarantees a distance between them of 120cm.
The feet supplied by Valcuci-ne are so slim that they do not
detract from the beauty of the kitchen.
Fixing a wall-hung kitchen
A
B
C
D
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planning guide 63
Can household appliances be installed in a wall-hung
kitchen?
E - Nowadays it is even possi-ble to install a dishwasher in a
wall-hung base unit. An exam-ple of this is the new Smeg 60x90 or
60x60 dishwasher. We recommend the addition of supporting feet. It
is necessary to accurately defi ne the position of the wall pipe
outlet (see page 77).
F - A 76x60 dishwasher can be installed in a tall unit, in a
higher position compared to a traditio-nal one which makes it more
ergonomic. Its ideal position is at the right of the sink (making
it easier to load). NB: Make sure it is provided with the Acquastop
device be-fore purchasing it.
G - The oven can also be fi tted inside a wall-hung base unit fi
xed to the wall.
H - The oven is more comforta-ble to use and more ergonomic if
it is installed inside an ele-ment that can be hung in any position
on the wall. It can have a fl ap door that disappears be-low the
unit when open.
The dishwasher The oven
Wall-hung dishwasher
In-column dishwasher
Oven inside a wall-hung base unit
Oven inside a wall-hung element
E
F
G
H
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planning guide66
Overall sizes and dimensions of furnishing elements
6-
9 36
-48
60-7
2
6-9
6
-9
10-1
3 16
-22
60-7
2
1-6-9
60-7
2 16
-22-
25
28-
34
40-5
8-61
64
-70-
75
36
36
36
36
15-30-
40-45
60-80-
90-120
30-4
5
60-90-
120
30-40
45-60
65-70
95-110
-125 95-110-125
35-50 60-65-80 60
20 65
35-40
18-24-3035-50-60
96-120
35
variable
HEIG
HTW
IDTH
DEPT
H
varia
ble
Variable
with plinth with feet wall-hung
varia
ble
WALL PANELSEND PANELS
BASE UNITS
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planning guide 67
wall unit H 48
36-4
8-60
-72-
96
15-30
-40
45-60-
80-90
35
60-7
2
102
10-1
3 16
-22
120-
144-
180-
192-
204-
228
120-
144-
180-
192-
204-
228
16-2
2-25
28-3
4
10-1
3 16
-22
192-
204
45-60
90-120
65 65
30-45
60-90-
120
110-12
5 95-
100 95-100
96 113
35-50-60
variable
(max 3
00)
60-65 35-50-60
120-18
0-240
36
90-120
180-24
0
34
20
48
34
42
Ala wall unit
wall unit H 48
Ala wall unit
wall unit H 48
Ala wall unitAerius wall unit
Aerius wall unit
Aerius wall unit
TOWER UNITS WALL UNITS
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planning guide68
How can I calculate the length of the wall to which the units
are fi tted?
Measuring the wall
Length of wall for in-line kitchen L.300 Length of wall for
in-line kitchen L.300 and fridge W. 60 with horizontal handle
Length of wall for in-line kitchen L.300 and fridge with convex
door
Length of wall for in-line kitchen L.300 and American-style
fridge
1 300 5
1 300 x 10* 1 300 20*
366
311+x 321+x
1 1 300
302
60
x
To calculate the right length of a wall to contain the kitchen
unts without the need for costly made-to-measure elements, one must
remember that a ki-tchen is composed of modules that are multiples
of 15cm. To avoid wasting space and the need for customised
mo-difications, the kitchen must
also be planned as a multiple of 15 cm. An extra 1 cm tolerance
on each side must always be con-sidered if you will be adding tiles
to an unfi nished wall. If a fridge will be installed at the end of
an arrangement, add 5cm to allow a door with a horizontal handle to
open
completely; an extra 10*cm if you fi t a fridge with a convex
door; an extra 20*cm if you in-stall an American-style fridge. The
depth of Free Standing refrigerators varies depending on their
capacity in litres. For American-style refrigerators with an
automatic water and ice dispenser, you must con-
sider the space for a tap to fi t alongside the fridge.
*indicative measurements that must be checked with the actual
appliance ordered.
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planning guide 69
Length of wall for corner kitchen D.60, L.300 Length of wall for
corner kitchen D. 65, L.300
Length of wall for corner kitchen D.80, L.300 Length of wall for
kitchen with corner tower, D.60, L.300
1 300 60 1 65
60 300
1
65
80
372
300
20
1
387
1 1
60
367
1 300 95 1
397
60
5 5
5
In the corner of the kitchen it is necessary to add the size of
the corner post (X) (used to make door opening easier) to the depth
of the base units. In general it is preferable to use a door with a
knob and a door with a horizontal handle. To fit two doors with
horizontal handles you must consider
that they will knock against each other and then calculate the
width of the corner post. In general, for most kitchens the width
of the corner post (X) is 5cm.
Base unit depth
Base
uni
t dep
thx
x
Corner post
Opening with knob
Opening with handle
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planning guide70
What problems could arise at the end of an arrangement near a
door?
Drawers or jumbo drawersDoor frames usually protrude from the
wall by about one centimetre. This is why, when you plan a kitchen
that fi nishes against a wall with a door, a few simple rules must
be followed. A good rule is to keep the base units detached from
the side wall by 5 cm to allow the jumbo drawer to be pulled
out
without knocking against the door frame. A fi ller strip will be
used to conceal the gap while the top will continue against the
side wall.
If the kitchen has doors with horizontal handles, a gap must be
left between the end unit and the wall. The width of the gap will
depend on the space taken up by the handle when the door is open. A
5cm gap is usually sufficient but it is always best to ask how deep
the handles you want to use
are. To avoid this problem, a knob can be fi tted on the door
near the wall.
min. 5cm
Door frame
Jumbo drawer end of arrangement
Filler
Gap from the wall
Door frame protrudes by min. 1cm
min. 5cm
Door frame
Horizontal handle at the end of an arrangement
Gap from wall
Filler
Door frame protrudes bymin. 1cm
Horizontal handle
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planning guide 71
A dishwasher at the end of an arrangement and near a door
requires a gap of approximately 5cm from the wall to allow the door
to open without knocking against the door frame. Valcu-cine
discourages dishwasher installation at the end of an arrangement
because, if the corner is not a perfect right-an-
gle, problems may arise both for assembly and for door ope-ning.
Furthermore, due to the fact that the dishwasher is not installed
inside a base unit but is attached to the side panels of the base
units on each side, if it is installed at the end of an
arrangement, one side support would be missing.
If a special wall unit with lift-up door such as the Ala or
Aerius wall unit have been planned at the end of an arrangement,
due to the special size of the door, it will be necessary to
install the wall unit at a distance of at least 5 cm from the wall
to allow it to open without knocking against the door frame.
However, to make the most of the special aesthetics of these
elements, it is preferable to fi t them in an isolated position, at
a certain distance from other kitchen cabinets and from the
walls.
Dishwashers Wall unit with lift-up door
min. 5cm
Door frame
Dishwasher end of arrangement
Filler
Gap from the wall
Door frame protruding bymin. 1cm
min. 5cm
Door frame
Wall unit with lift-up door at end of arrangement
Gap from wall
Door frame protrudes by min. 1cm
Filler
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planning guide72
How far should the door be from the corner of the kitchen?
Measuring the wall from corner to door
X
K=X+2
X
K=X+16
A B
The width of the wall (K) from the corner to the door frame must
be calculated by con-sidering the depth (X) of the kitchen units
that are installed against that wall. In general it is always
advisa-ble to maintain a safety gap from the wall of about 2cm.
A - If there are base units, the width of the wall is calculated
by adding to the depth of the base units (X), a 2cm gap before the
door frame. The total width of the wall will be: K=X+2.
B - If there are tall units, it will not be suffi cient to add a
2cm safety gap, but you must also consider the space taken up by a
switch (generally 12cm).In this case, the width of the side panel
will be calculated by adding to the depth of the tall units (X=), a
2cm gap between the tall unit and the
switch, 12cm for the switch and a 2cm gap between the switch and
the doorframe. The total width of the wall will be: K= X+16cm.
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planning guide 73
Before ordering kitchen fur-niture it is a good idea to take
accurate measurements of the walls to check for possible off-square
corners. Two walls are perpendicular if the diagonal line, measured
at one metres distance from the corner, is 141.5 cm. This
measurement must be taken at various hei-
ghts, but special attention must be paid to the measurement
taken for the top (at a height of about 90cm from the fl oor) for
which it is advisable to re-produce a cardboard template. A small
mistake in this mea-surement may require costly worktop modifi
cations with a high probability of error.
fi tted at the end of the arran-gement. B - the diagonal line is
>141.5 therefore the angle is >90. In this case the length of
the ki-tchen can correspond to the length of the wall. The empty
gap at the front wil be covered by a fi ller. The top will be
pro-duced using a template.
Length of kitchenLength of wall
P
Length of wallLength of kitchen
Non-square corner 141.5
Filler
If the kitchen corner is not square, two cases are possi-ble: A
- the diagonal line is
-
planning guide74
At what height should the window sill be?
To prevent the height of the window sill from determining the
choice of your kitchen, it is necessary to decide it in advance by
keeping in mind a few important aspects. The height of the window
sill (Y) is calculated by adding 3 cm from the height of the
ki-tchen base unit (J) to the un-
height of the worktop from the fl oor and whether it is fi t-ted
with a back section or a splashback. The height of the window sill
is determined as follows: Y=J+3cm or Y=J+25cm.
derside of the window sill, or by adding 25cm if the equip-ped
back section with a dish-drainer is fi tted below the win-dow (25cm
is considered to be the average space taken up by plates standing
in the back section rack).The height (J) of the kitchen base unit
depends on the
J3
Y J25
Y
J3
Y J3
Y
splashback H6
back section H6
or H18
back section H6 or H18 with dish
drainer
splashback H1
Height of the window sill
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planning guide 75
How can I plan the sink area below the window?
If the sink is installed below a window, the householder can
look outside and washing up becomes less of a chore and thus less
tiring. One often gives up on the idea of the functiona-lity and
beauty of a sink below the window because of the problem of where
to put the dish drainer (superfl uous if a
dishwasher is installed).Valcucine suggests two so-lutions: a
dish drainer in the back section (see page 57) or a dish drainer in
a pullout rack inside a base unit near the sink base unit. If the
sink is fi tted below the window, it will be ne-cessary to make
sure that the windows do not interfere with
the tap. This can be ensured in three ways: A - by installing
horizontally or vertically-sliding windows;B - by fitting the mixer
tap exactly in the space where the hinged windows open; C - by
installing a fold-down tap if B is not possible. In this case a
height of 13cm, corre-
sponding to the height of the folded tap, must be calculated
when deciding the height of the window sill.
horizontally or vertically-sliding windows
hinged windows with centred sink
hinged windows with non-centred sink and fold-down tap
The sink area
A B C
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planning guide76
At what height should drains and plumbing connections be?
In this type of kitchen, the spa-ce in which pipes can come out
of the wall must corre-spond to the empty space (without a back
panel) of the sink base unit.This space is included between Y2
(upper limit) and Y1 (lower limit), where:Y1 is equal to the height
from
the floor of the base unit K (be it with a plinth, with feet or
wall-hung) increased by 10cm, corresponding to the low bottom back
panel + about 6cm for safetys sake.Y2 is equal to Y1+24cm if the
base unit is 60 cm deep, Y1+36cm if the base unit is 72 cm
deep.
From a front view, the drains must be centred preferably with
the sink centerline and must be kept at a distance of about 7cm
from both sides of the base unit.
7 7
Y1
45/60/80/90/120
24/3
6
Y2
Area to use for cable and for pipe outlets on the wall
60/7
2
K 16
31/46/66/76/106
sink centerline
A back-to-wall kitchen
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planning guide 77
A - kitchen with H13cm plinth and H72 base
unit:Y1=13cm+16cm=29cmY2=29cm+36cm=65cm.B - kitchen with H25cm feet
and H60 base unit:Y1=25cm+16=41cmY2=41cm+24cm=65cm.C - wall-hung
kitchen H34cm from the fl oor and H60 base unit:
Y1=34cm+16cm=50cmY2=50cm+24cm=74cm.D - wall-hung kitchen H58
from the fl oor and H36 base
unit:Y1=58cm+7cm=65cmY2=65cm+8cm=73cm.Due to the reduced space for
pipe outlets we do not recom-mend fi ting a sink inside a H36
wall-hung base unit.
Three examples of calculations for pipe outlets
Y1Y2
Y1Y2
Y1Y2
72 60
60
1336
16
2416
25
2416
34
Kitchen with plinth H13cm and base unit H72
Kitchen with feet H25cm and base unit H60
Wall-hung kitchen H34cm from the floor and base unit H60
Y1
Y2
36
8 58
7
Wall-hung kitchen with base units H36
A B C
D
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planning guide78
Where should I fi t drains and pipe connections in a kitchen
with an island?
In the event of an island arran-gement without a back sec-tion
and raised on supports, the drain outlets and the fl oor plumbing
connections must be positioned across the cen-terline of the 8cm
service gap that is created by fi tting two 60 cm base units
back-to-back (of which one is a sink base unit)
or across the 5cm created by installing a 60cm deep sink base
unit back-to-back with a 35 cm deep base unit. In addition to this,
the pipes will be centred in the sink base unit centerline, the
only one without a back panel and the-refore accessible. On
request, Valcucine supplies a 30x5cm
aluminium guard to conceal the pipes. They must come out of the
fl oor within this space.
35/60 60 5/8
30
35/60 60 5/8
service gap centerlineservice gap centerline
sink
cen
terli
ne area usable for floor
pipe outlets
service gap between two base
units
Island on feet without a back section
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planning guide 79
... or in a kitchen with a pensinsular unit or an island with a
back section?
The plumbing connections must come out of the wall behind the
back section. It is important to determine the exact position of
the back section so that the pipes can be made to come out in the
11cm gap, measured across the centerline of the back section and in
an area between Y1 (made up of the height K of
the base unit from the fl oor, + 16cm corresponding to the low
bottom back panel + about 6cm for safetys sake) and Y2 (equal to Y1
+ 24cm if the base unit is 60 cm deep, +36cm if the base unit is 72
cm deep). The drain pipe must be installed at the bottom. For the
island arrangement
Peninsular unit with back section on feetcan come out of the
wall but it will be necessary to order a back section with a
special side panel.
with a steel, floor-standing, back section, the plumbing
connections must be effected in the free area at the bottom of the
back section, that is 13 cm wide. From here the pipes can reach
destination by running through the back section. If the steel back
section is used on a peninsular unit, the pipes
11
drains and connections come out of the wall
Peninsular unit with back section and feet
Y1
Y2
24/3
6 K
16
back section centerline
13
back section centerline
drains and connections come out of the wall
Island with back section and plinth
Floor-standing island with back section
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planning guide80
A - The kitchen is a room in which relative humidity is very
high on the ceiling and unless the heat bridge has been eli-minated
during construction, condensation problems may arise and mould may
form.
B - There are special insu-lating paints available on the market
that avoid the tempe-rature from dropping due to the heat bridge on
the ceiling thus preventing the formation of mould.
C - The ideal solution is to add a good thermal insulator to the
exterior of the ceiling to completely eliminate the heat bridge and
all its negative con-sequences.
THERMALBRIDGE
EXTERNALINSULATION
THERMALBRIDGE
Formation of condensation and mould
Temperature of the wall in the corner: 15 C
Insulating paint
No mould
Temperature of the wall in the corner: 18 C
No mould
Temperature of the wall in the corner: 19 C
Internal wall temperature 19 C
External wall temperature 5 C
Internal wall temperature19 C
External wall temperature5 C
Internal wall temperature19 C
External wall temperature 5 C
Insulator Ceiling Insulator CeilingInsulator Ceiling
How can I prevent mould from forming in the corners?
A B C
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planning guide 81
Various types of plaster are available on the market, some are
synthetic, others are natural. Bio-architecture re-commends the use
of natural plaster only, that is less har-mful for our health. It
is made of lime and sand mortars and doesnt contain cement. Lime
mortar is resistant to humidi-
tolerance to humidity because they are very permeable to wa-ter
vapour. The choice of colours is also important in a kitchen
becau-se it affects the luminosity of the room: light colours make
spaces look larger while war-mer colours create the right
harmony.
sticity. These features result in extreme durability and very
high reliability, guaranteeing great resistance to fl exion and
compression. For as much as regards paints, silicate paints made of
potassium silicate and natural mineral pigments are excellent. They
are transpi-ring, hygienic and have a high
ty and mould, anti-bacterial, extremely transpiring and an
excellent heat insulator. Slow hardening due to the presence of
dicalcium silica-te gives this plaster excellent resistance to
sudden changes in temperature, perfect adhe-sion to the base to
which it is applied and excellent ela-
Plaster
PLASTERSYNTHETIC
PLASTER
NATURAL
A B
What plaster should I choose?
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planning guide82
Cotto, stone, marble and gra-nite are natural materials that
must be treated using water-repellent products because they tend to
stain. Wood gives the kitchen a homely atmo-sphere but only if it
is fi nished with natural varnishes that set off its original
texture. Care must be taken to avoid wet-
style fl ooring with a different coloured border, it is
important to know the exact size of the furniture and where it will
be placed to avoid covering the design or obtaining results that
differ from those planned.
used which are very resistant because the material mix and the
enamel are fi red simulta-neously at a very high tempe-rature.
Double-fired tiles are more refi ned but also more de-licate, they
chip easily and end up looking unkempt. If you are planning a fl
ooring with a de-sign, for example a Venetian-
ting it continuously because humidity makes it swell. It is
important to appreciate the worn look because even if a resistant
wood such as oak is used, sharp object, sauces, wine and coffee
will take their toll and leave their mark. As an alternative to
natural ma-terials, single-fi red tiles can be
What fl ooring should I choose for my kitchen?
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planning guide 83
Where should wall tiles be applied?
9
+9
For cost reasons and because this would prevent the wall from
transpiring properly, it isnt necessary to tile the who-le wall
behind the kitchen ele-ments. The tiled surface must be calculated
according to the height of the base units and the position of the
wall units. The height of the tiles (K) is
an electric socket above the worktop respecting a mini-mum
distance of 60cm from the hob and from the sink (see page 105).
to the lower edge of the hood. To determine the height, it is
necessary to have already chosen the hood you will use. For most
hoods, the distance from the worktop is 68cm. If decor tiles are
applied, these should be placed at the centre of the visible
tiles.Before tiling the wall, install
obtained by subtracting the height of the worktop (Y1) from the
height of the lower edge of the wall units (Y2) from the fl oor.
Dut to the fact that the height of the worktop can vary, for
safetys sake it is a good idea to tile about 10cm below the
worktop. In the hob area, it is preferable to tile up
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planning guide86
Why are aeration holes necessary?
The quantitiy of air that enters the kitchen must be at least
equal to the air used for nor-mal gas combustion. In addi-tion to
this, one must consider that without a fl ow of air from outdoors,
hood extraction may generate a drop in pressure that would prevent
the comple-te expulsion of fumes. To avoid
tchen wall to solve problems connected with the use of LPG
which, as well as needing a greater quantity of air for
com-bustion, has a relatively lower density compared to natural
gas.
kW of heat capacity installed, with a minimum of 100cm ;- if the
hob does not have a ther-mocouple (device that stops the gas fl ow
if the fl ame goes out) an additional hole is required to obtain a
minimum aeration cross-section of 200cm.It is advisable for the
second hole to be at the top of the ki-
these two problems the air fl ow must come in directly through
permanent openings on the outside walls of the kitchen. These
openings are governed by the UNI7129 standards and must comply with
the following requirements: - they must have a net cross-section of
at least 6cm for each
2 2
Hob with thermocouple and/or use of natural gas
Hob without thermocoupleand/oruse of LPG
Air inlet aeration holes 12cm, total surface 200 cm
Air inlet aeration hole 12cm, minimum surface 100 cm
2
2
2
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planning guide 87
Odours travel to other rooms in the home
All odours are conveyed in the right direction and expelled by
the hood
Aeration hole in an inside kitchen wall
Aeration hole in a room adjacent to the kitchen
Standards also allow indirect ventilation by taking air from an
adjacent room, as long as this room is ventilated directly from
outdoors, is not a bedroom and is not at a high risk of catching fi
re (e.g. a carport, a garage, a warehouse etc.). In addition to
this, the adja-cent room must not have a
up) and to prevent odours from going towards other rooms in the
home by conveying them in the right direction.
door divides the two rooms, it can enter by increasing the gap
between the door and the fl oor (min. 2 cm).Where possible,
Valcucine sug-gests to make the aeration ho-les in a room adjacent
to the ki-tchen to avoid annoying cold air draughts (before
reaching the kitchen the air has time to warm
lower pressure compared to the room to be aired because of the
presence of an applian-ce powered by any type of fuel (e.g. a fi
replace, a stove, etc.) or of an extraction device for which an air
inlet has not been provided. The air can flow in from the adjacent
room throu-gh permanent openings or, if a
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planning guide88
Why do I need a check valve?
For all its hood models, Val-cucine has adopted a special check
valve that shuts when the motor is off, preventing unwanted air
from flowing in from outdoors, and opens automatically when the
motor is on. Unpleasant inconvenien-ces may occur in absence of
this valve.
come in from outdoors. Furthermore, due to the chi-mney effect,
a hood without a check valve tends to extract the hot air from the
room and convey it oudoors even when it is off, thus incresing
heating costs.
Due to particular circumstan-ces that may occur in the home
(draughts or drops in pressu-re) if the fumes outlet hole is near
other fl ues it may take in the toxic gasses coming from the fi
replace, stove or boiler of adjacent homes. Furthermore, if a check
valve is not installed, cold air may
Low pressureroome
Hot air escapes
Toxic gasses come in from adjacent chiimneys
Hood without a check valve
Hood without a check valve
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planning guide 89
Odours from other rooms
Hood withouta check valve
Branched common flue pipe
Low pressure room
In a multi-storey building, all the fumes are usually con-veyed
into a common fl ue pipe and then discharged outdoors. The fl ue
pipe must comply with the UNI EN 1443 standard construction
requirements. It must also be heat-insulated to prevent
condensation or cooling of fumes and it must
case, a fl ue pipe used in com-mon with other homes may attract
the fumes and food odours of neighbouring ki-tchens into your
kitchen. If your hood does not have an integrated check valve, we
suggest you install a separate one-way valve in the outside
wall.
run vertically and be without constrictions. The hood fl ue
pipes must run into a common fl ue pipe that is branched and used
to this aim only. A problem that must not be underestimated is the
possi-ble use of an extraction hood without a check valve. In
this
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What hoods can I choose from?
A - The hood has a fundamen-tal role in the kitchen because it
eliminates odours caused by cooking food and extracts the vapours
which would otherwise stagnate and tend to condense on cold kitchen
surfaces. It is also used to eliminate toxic combustion gasses
(carbon monoxide and
B - To reduce the diffusion of odours it is preferable to use
hoods that partialise the air inlet to the greatest possible
extent. The best system is a hood that is shut in on all three
sides.
of the room; - worktop hoods: these can shut and be completely
ca-mouflaged with the kitchen worktop.
nitrogen monoxide).Various types of hoods are available on the
market: - wall-hung hoods: to use for kitchens installed along a
wall;- hoods below wall units: can be completely integrated insi-de
the kitchen unit;- island hoods: to use if the cooking area is in
the