Mumbai, Monday, January 25, 2016 epaper.dnaindia.com after 4 Manish Mishra What got you into fashion? Some people are musically inclined, some people are athletically inclined and I was able to dress myself. How has your style evolved over the years? Taste and style is based on knowl- edge and the change — where you live, the weather, your body chang- es — all these factors. How do you see the evolution in menswear space? I think it’s always going to evolve. One trend which hasn’t changed is that it’s more casual than ever before. The challenge is for the brand to stay relevant despite all the casual- ness. They can do it by being experimental. What’s your take on androgyny? I’m in a twin set and shortly coat, so yes. Ha ha. What does the metaphor ‘Made In Italy’ mean to you? The highest quality. [email protected] Pitti style Manish Mishra nject nonchalant gravitas into a beautifully tai- lored suit and you’ve got the Pitti Peacock. He isn’t a dandy, he isn’t a rockstar and he isn’t a fashion victim. It’s just the way he puts together his look that makes him the cynosure of all eyes on the great wall of Pitti Uomo in the heart of the iconic Fortezza da Basso in Florence. Street style icon Nick Wooster says, “There is something for everyone here.” The 89th edition was a record-breaker in terms of the companies attending (1,219 protagonist brands), as well as the figures for the buyers, press and members of the trade who visited over the four days of the event. The final attendance figures confirm the trend registered during the fair: a total number of buyers that nearly reached 24,800 (+4 per cent compared to one year ago), 8,800 of which from abroad (+2.5per cent) and 16,000 Ital- ians (+5 per cent). What made the 89th edition truly remarkable for In- dia was the celebration of Indian aesthetic as Suket Dhir was announced the winner of the prestigious In- ternational Woolmark prize in the menswear category. When one looks at this cultural melting pot comprising some of the best menswear labels, designers, buyers and exhibitors, one can’t help but ponder over the Pitti style and what it represents. Excellence in quality Pitti, over the years, has been a cornucopia of com- merce, culture and colour. Andrea Cavicchi, the new President of the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana shared, “Pitti represents the excellence in quality. Fash- ion is culture and represents culture. We have to work as a communication for culture.” Also, it takes fashion retail to a new level and much beyond the limited bracket of glamour. “Fashion can give contribution to peace. We have to think of our chil- dren too. We will have to elevate ourselves through fash- ion,” says Enrico Rossi, President of Tuscany. Stage for real fashion drivers Roney Simon, Managing Director of CRS, (Director, FICCI, Italy) says, “Pitti is keeping in touch with the real fashion drivers — they select the best of the best, every exhibitor is selected on the basis of the garment quality and the honesty which went into it.” A relaxed fall-winter Julie Woodhead, Buying Director, Collective says, “Eve- rything is a lot more relaxed. Colours are very soft and muted like soft red and pink. There is a little bit of high- lights. Green and blue are two key fall colours. These are people (Pitti men) in the know — they live it, they breathe it, they understand it. ” Style: Part of Pitti dialogue Andrea Lardini president and CEO of the family com- pany Lardini and one of the governors at Pitti Immag- ine board says, “We are constantly discussing style and style is part of our dialogue.” Fiorella Tombolini, President of Tombolini feels that Pitti style is not one clear idea but has multi-layered complexities. “It’s about the new generation. We’re tak- ing tradition and fusing it with innovation of future and that’s Pitti.” That sums it up beautifully. The Pitti planet is about the ultimate and the unique in the menswear fashion galaxy. [email protected] ‘I didn’t want to shout India’ Manish Mishra H is line, comprising sooth- ing jackets, soul-searing gilets and ombre shirts look global and yet have an Indian soul intact. One look at Suket Dhir’s seminal pieces and it’s not hard to understand why his unique brand of aes- thetic outshone the likes of Agi & Sam in the contest. Over to the designer with a monastic visage... How does it feel? I have not managed to compre- hend it all as yet. We were too busy working on the collection but the feedback has been amazing and whoever has seen the product has gone ga ga about it. Everyone has appreciated the amount of crafts- manship that has gone into the prod- ucts. These things don’t sink it. I’m waiting for it to sink in. By the time it sinks in, we’ll be getting into the mak- ing of the collection and getting back into the madness. It is certainly surreal and it is a beautiful place to be at. Every- body has vested their energy in me, my wife and my friends who wish well for me, my acquaintances wish well for me. My weavers, embroiders and tailors bonded with me very well. Their fond- ness for me means a lot to me. What has been the greatest compliment so far? All the other participants came to me individually and told me if it were anybody else winning, they’d be freaking out. They just feel happy that I won it. There can’t be a bigger compliment than that. Somebody had to win. The world needs a little bit of ac- tion and our collection portrays that. I’d describe my collection as the true rendi- tion of a man. Whenever we describe men, we say, ‘boys will be boys’. There is always a fun and frolic element in them. We have got beautiful prints. It’s like fun boxer shorts, our linings. Mostly for the wearer. Does it put India on the international menswear map? I hope so. We have shown how good we can be at luxury. Maybe tailoring should go to the next level. I am happy with the tailor- ing but I could be happier. It puts India on the map. When you see the collection there’s nothing Indian about it yet there’s something Indian about it. I didn’t want to shout India. I wanted it to be global. How did you strike the delicate balance between Indian and global? It’s not a challenge. We dress up the way we do yet we love our kurta pyjamas on certain occasions. I ex- actly had that in mind — Will I wear it? Will I wear it? Will I wear it? The answer is yes. There is a bandhgala in it, there’s a gilet in it, which in India is called a bandi. It’s about the way things are put together. What’s the idea behind your monastic look? My wife likes it. It grew on me. Every- body liked it. I love hats especially this hat. I didn’t think too much about it. [email protected] Decoding Pitti Uomo 89 was a metaphor for finest Italian craftsmanship. After Hrs delves into its multi- layered approach to all things chic I It’s about the new generation. We’re taking tradition and fusing it with innovation of future and that’s Pitti —Fiorella Tombolini , President, Tombolini We are constantly discussing style and style is part of our dialogue —Andrea Lardini , President & CEO, Lardini, Governor, Pitti Immagine Board ‘Made In Italy means highest quality’ & Q A Street style blogger Nick Wooster speaks to After Hrs at Pitti Uomo Suket Dhir, winner of International Woolmark Prize in the menswear category speaks to After Hrs at Pitti Uomo in Florence... Suket gives a model the finishing touch backstage before his show at Pitti Uomo & Q A Looks from Suket Dhir’s Woolmark line iconic looks 5 Designer Vikram Phadnis on his epochal ensembles T alking about his muse, Malaika Arora Khan, Vikram shares, “Malaika is one of my muses. When I make a garment, I think of her.” He counts supernova Salman Khan as his guardian angel. KATRINA KAIF Katrina Kaif wears a blue velvet lehenga which is hand embroidered with zardozi. The lehenga is paired with a maroon corset which has embroidery on the belt and neckline. We have given her a blue net dupatta. KARISMA KAPOOR She’s seen in an all-gold gown with the yoke and sleeves completely hand embroidered with stones sequins and kadana. MALAIKA ARORA KHAN She is wearing a threadwork lehenga with resham sequins and kundan borders. Malla is wearing a short black velvet choli. SRIDEVI She wears a beige net lehenga with a lot of red and gold borders made of gota and zardozi, it is also backed with a sequin layer inside. Her choli is a round neck ¾ sleeve made of shimmer lycra. SALMAN KHAN He wears a formal two-button suit and a striped shirt inside with classic black trousers. Enrico Rossi, President of Tuscany with Andrea Cavicchi, President of the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana TRENDSPOTTING: Gingham checks and olive green tones were two recurring elements ON THE GREAT WALL OF PITTI: A lesson in layering DANDY-LICIOUS: Plaid suits and hats stood out DAPPER ALERT: Pitti’s peacocks clearly love their accessories
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Mumbai, Monday, January 25, 2016
epaper.dnaindia.com
after
4
Manish Mishra
What got you into fashion?Some people are musically inclined, some people are athletically inclined and I was able to dress myself.
How has your style evolved over the years?Taste and style is based on knowl-edge and the change — where you
live, the weather, your body chang-es — all these factors.
How do you see the evolution in menswear space? I think it’s always going to evolve. One trend which hasn’t changed is that it’s more casual than ever before. The challenge is for the brand to stay relevant despite all the casual-ness. They can do it by being experimental.
What’s your take on androgyny? I’m in a twin set and shortly coat, so yes. Ha ha.
What does the metaphor ‘Made In Italy’ mean to you? The highest quality.
Pitti style
Manish Mishra
nject nonchalant gravitas into a beautifully tai-lored suit and you’ve got the Pitti Peacock. He isn’t a dandy, he isn’t a rockstar and he isn’t a fashion victim. It’s just the way he puts together his look that makes him the cynosure of all eyes on the great wall of Pitti Uomo in the heart of the iconic Fortezza da Basso in Florence. Street
style icon Nick Wooster says, “There is something for everyone here.”
The 89th edition was a record-breaker in terms of the companies attending (1,219 protagonist brands), as well as the fi gures for the buyers, press and members of the trade who visited over the four days of the event. The fi nal attendance fi gures confi rm the trend registered during the fair: a total number of buyers that nearly reached 24,800 (+4 per cent compared to one year ago), 8,800 of which from abroad (+2.5per cent) and 16,000 Ital-ians (+5 per cent).
What made the 89th edition truly remarkable for In-dia was the celebration of Indian aesthetic as Suket Dhir was announced the winner of the prestigious In-ternational Woolmark prize in the menswear category. When one looks at this cultural melting pot comprising some of the best menswear labels, designers, buyers and exhibitors, one can’t help but ponder over the Pitti style and what it represents.
Excellence in qualityPitti, over the years, has been a cornucopia of com-merce, culture and colour. Andrea Cavicchi, the new President of the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana shared, “Pitti represents the excellence in quality. Fash-ion is culture and represents culture. We have to work as a communication for culture.”
Also, it takes fashion retail to a new level and much beyond the limited bracket of glamour. “Fashion can give contribution to peace. We have to think of our chil-dren too. We will have to elevate ourselves through fash-ion,” says Enrico Rossi, President of Tuscany.
Stage for real fashion driversRoney Simon, Managing Director of CRS, (Director, FICCI, Italy) says, “Pitti is keeping in touch with the real fashion drivers — they select the best of the best, every exhibitor is selected on the basis of the garment quality and the honesty which went into it.”
A relaxed fall-winter Julie Woodhead, Buying Director, Collective says, “Eve-rything is a lot more relaxed. Colours are very soft and muted like soft red and pink. There is a little bit of high-lights. Green and blue are two key fall colours. These are people (Pitti men) in the know — they live it, they breathe it, they understand it. ”
Style: Part of Pitti dialogueAndrea Lardini president and CEO of the family com-
pany Lardini and one of the governors at Pitti Immag-ine board says, “We are constantly discussing style and style is part of our dialogue.”
Fiorella Tombolini, President of Tombolini feels that Pitti style is not one clear idea but has multi-layered complexities. “It’s about the new generation. We’re tak-ing tradition and fusing it with innovation of future and that’s Pitti.”
That sums it up beautifully. The Pitti planet is about the ultimate and the unique in the menswear fashion galaxy.
‘I didn’t want to shout India’
Manish Mishra
His line, comprising sooth-ing jackets, soul-searing gilets and ombre shirts look global and yet have
an Indian soul intact. One look at Suket Dhir’s seminal pieces and it’s not hard to understand why his unique brand of aes-thetic outshone the likes of Agi & Sam in the contest. Over to the designer with a monastic visage...
How does it feel?I have not managed to compre-hend it all as yet. We were too busy working on the collection but the feedback has been amazing and whoever has seen the product has gone ga ga about it. Everyone has appreciated the amount of crafts-manship that has gone into the prod-ucts. These things don’t sink it. I’m waiting for it to sink in. By the time it sinks in, we’ll be getting into the mak-ing of the collection and getting back into the madness. It is certainly surreal and it is a beautiful place to be at. Every-body has vested their energy in me, my wife and my friends who wish well for me, my acquaintances wish well for me.
My weavers, embroiders and tailors bonded with me very well. Their fond-ness for me means a lot to me.
What has been the greatest compliment so far? All the other participants came to me
individually and told me if it were anybody else winning, they’d be freaking out. They just feel happy
that I won it. There can’t be a bigger compliment than that. Somebody had
to win. The world needs a little bit of ac-tion and our collection portrays that. I’d describe my collection as the true rendi-tion of a man. Whenever we describe men, we say, ‘boys will be boys’. There is always a fun and frolic element in them. We have got beautiful prints. It’s like fun boxer shorts, our linings. Mostly for the wearer.
Does it put India on the international menswear map?
I hope so. We have shown how good we can be at luxury. Maybe tailoring should go to the next level. I am happy with the tailor-ing but I could be happier. It puts India on the map. When you see the collection there’s nothing Indian about it yet there’s something Indian about it. I didn’t want to shout India. I wanted it to be global.
How did you strike the delicate balance between Indian and global?
It’s not a challenge. We dress up the way we do yet we love our kurta
pyjamas on certain occasions. I ex-actly had that in mind — Will I wear it? Will I wear it? Will I wear it? The answer is yes. There is a bandhgala in it, there’s a gilet in it, which in India is called a bandi. It’s about the way things are put together.
What’s the idea behind your monastic look?My wife likes it. It grew on me. Every-
body liked it. I love hats especially this hat. I didn’t think too much about it.
Decoding
Pitti Uomo 89 was a metaphor for finest Italian craftsmanship. After Hrs delves into its multi-
layered approach to all things chic
I
It’s about the new generation.
We’re taking tradition and fusing it with innovation of
future and that’s Pitti
—Fiorella Tombolini,
President, Tombolini
We are constantly
discussing style and style is part of our dialogue
—Andrea Lardini,
President & CEO,
Lardini, Governor, Pitti
Immagine Board
‘Made In Italy
means highest
quality’
&QA
Street style blogger Nick Wooster speaks to After Hrs at Pitti Uomo
Suket Dhir, winner of International Woolmark Prize in the menswear category speaks to After Hrs at Pitti Uomo in Florence...
Suket gives a model the finishing touch backstage before his show at Pitti Uomo
&QA
Looks from Suket Dhir’s
Woolmark line
iconic looks5Designer Vikram Phadnis on his epochal ensembles
Talking about his muse, M a l a i k a A ro r a K h a n , Vikram shares, “Malaika is one of my muses. When I
make a garment, I think of her.” He counts supernova Salman Khan as his guardian angel.
KATRINA KAIFKatrina Kaif wears a blue velvet lehenga which is hand embroidered with zardozi. The lehenga is paired with a maroon corset which has embroidery on the belt and neckline. We have given her a blue net dupatta.
KARISMA KAPOORShe’s seen in an all-gold gown with the yoke and sleeves completely hand embroidered with stones sequins and kadana.
MALAIKA ARORA KHANShe is wearing a threadwork lehenga with resham sequins and kundan borders. Malla is wearing a short black velvet choli.
SRIDEVIShe wears a beige net lehenga with a lot of red and gold borders made of gota and zardozi, it is also backed with a sequin layer inside. Her choli is a round neck ¾ sleeve made of shimmer lycra.
SALMAN KHANHe wears a formal two-button suit and a striped shirt inside with classic black trousers.
Enrico Rossi, President of Tuscany with Andrea Cavicchi, President of the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana
TRENDSPOTTING: Gingham checks and olive green tones were two recurring elements ON THE GREAT WALL OF PITTI: A lesson in layering
DANDY-LICIOUS: Plaid suits and hats stood out
DAPPER ALERT: Pitti’s peacocks clearly love their accessories