PhytoCycle - activeconceptsllc.com

PhytoCycleTM

Orange

PhytoCycleTM OrangeCode: 16925

INCI: Water & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Lactobacillus Ferment

Appearance: Clear to Slightly Hazy Liquid, Colorless to Pale Yellow

Suggested Use Level: 1–10%

Suggested Applications: Hydrating, Humidity Protection, Strengthening

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Proteins in Hair Care

Protein sprays “can cause breakage”~Nunzio Saviano, NYC Hair Stylist

“proteins crack the hair follicle”~Celebrity Stylist

“using too much [keratin] can make hair hard and brittle”~Cosmetic Chemist Ni'Kita Wilson

“protein sensitive hair” can become stiff and hard

~themestizamuse.com

“adding too much protein to the haircan disrupt the moisture balance”

~naturallclub.com

But why are some proteins allergens?

PhytoCycleTM Orange

The use of proteins in personal care has come under scrutiny in recentyears. This is mainly due to increasing concerns of protein sensitivity.

Wheat proteins are particularly divisive due to their potential glutencontent, and in Europe, cosmetic regulations specify that their maximummolecular weight must not exceed 3.5 kDa.

According to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety(SCCS), the risk of sensitization is greater when using high molecularweight hydrolyzed wheat proteins in various cosmetic applications1.

Despite the low toxicity of proteins, studies do indicate an undesiredactivity of various proteins and their derivatives often used in hair care.Typically these proteins are derived from collagen, elastin, keratin, milk,wheat, silk and almonds. These hydrolysates showed irritant potential in0.5% of examined patients and especially those with atopic dermatitis2.

Proteins in Personal Care

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Allergic reactions are the result of complex interactions between the immune system andthe protein. This means they are difficult to predict, but it is clear that some proteins areintrinsically more allergenic than others3.

Russell D. J. et al. suggests that the structural features of a protein could contributetowards allergenicity, such as the identity of epitopes within the protein (part of anantigen that is recognized by the immune system) and their availability to the immunesystem as well as glycocosyl groups and enzymatic activity3.

Wheat Case Study: The number of people affected by celiac disease, gluten allergies orwheat sensitivity is rising sharply. Now, 0.5 – 1% of the global population suffers fromsome form of intolerance.

There are theories that modern wheat varieties contain more immunoreactive proteinsthan in the past4,5 or that a lack of microbial diversity within our environment and gutmicrobiome6 is the cause of this increase in wheat-related disorders.

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Gluten is a family of storage proteins found in different cereal grains such as barley, rye and wheat. Wheat is the mostcommonly used grain for many different processed foods and baked goods.

As wheat or gluten intolerance has increased, so has the offering of gluten-free alternatives available on thesupermarket shelves. Often, viscosity modifiers such as xanthan gum or guar gum are used in place of gluten, butthese can create an unpleasant gumminess or slimy texture.

In baking, cellulose is described as being more effective than these other binders to mimic the structure of gluten. Itprovides elasticity and strength, acting like glue, to give gluten-free baked goods their proper shape and structure.

Cellulose is also used to produce different textiles such as rayon, modal and lyocell. Traditionally, these fabrics aremade from wood cellulose or pulp. Lyocell especially is considered more environmentally friendly than other naturalfibers, such as cotton.

However, the fast and continued expansion of thedissolving pulp industry has captured the attention of thefashion industry. There is a global shift in fabric sourcingas brands work to ensure future supply has a lowernegative impact on the environment.

Sustainable alternative fabrics are being developed in thetextile/fashion industries with focus on methods of carbonneutral processing or a circular economy:

1. Vegan leather can be grown from mushroom mycelium2. Vegan silks can be derived from citrus fruit waste7

Inspired by these global movements in food and fashion,we looked to the global orange supply chain as a source ofsustainable cellulose and phytocompounds for thedevelopment of a pseudo-protein active for use inpersonal care.

PhytoCycleTM Orange1.

Image Credits: 1. www.stellamccartney.com 2. www.orangefibre.it

2.

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Inspired by advances in both the food and fashion industries, ActiveConcepts has developed a protein-mimicking material from up-cycledorange pulp and “ugly” oranges.

Based on modified cellulose, the PhytoCycle™ Orange promotes similaractive functions to that of traditional hydrolysed proteins such ashydration, protection and enhanced hair manageability.

Proteins are macromolecules, which naturally provide structure. Theycreate elastic networks and flexible films and bind to surfaces such as theskin or hair.

Coating the hair with a structure of modified orange cellulose, can help toconjugate the proteins of the hair strand, helping to improve the hairs’innate strength and flexibility.

To achieve this, the waste orange fruit material undergoes enzymaticextraction and modification. This results in a water soluble active that canplate out across the hair to smooth and strengthen.

Protein-Free Alternative

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Sustainable SourcingProduct Passport

START: Orange fruit pulp or “ugly” oranges are sourced from Texas USA, Calabria Italy or Yunlin Taiwan for each local

Active Concepts manufacturing site. “Ugly” oranges are not suitable for commercial sale as whole fruits for consumption.

PROCESSING: Once on site, the orange material undergoes enzymatic extraction and modification. FINAL STOP: A pseudo-protein, water

soluble active that can balance out protein use in personal applications,

helping to condition and hydrate..

Efficacy Data• Confocal Microscopy• Hair Humidity Protection Analysis • Hair Hydration via Gravimetric Analysis • Half Head Salon Study • ORAC• SEM

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Data Support

Safety Data• AMES • Cellular Viability • Dermal and Ocular Irritation • OECD 201 Freshwater Alga Growth • OECD 301B Ready Biodegradability • OECD TG 442C Direct Peptide Reactivity • OECD TG 442D In Vitro Skin Sensitization • Phototoxicity

PhytoCycleTM Orange

A B C D

ProtocolConfocal & SEM Microscopy- vs Hydro lyzed Ke ra t in P ro te in

Confocal microscopy provides high resolution images, allowing for the observation of hair in its natural environment and with

minimal damage. Both the surface and the internal structures can be observed.

Scanning Electron Microscopy Imaging (SEM) provides images of the hairs surface topography and surface composition.

These two analysis were applied to compare the effects of PhytoCycle™ Orange vs Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein on bleached hair (one

process at 40v/12%).

Virgin hair and bleached hair were used as the positive and negative controls. Bleached hair tresses were treated with solutions of

2.0% PhytoCycle™ Orange or 2.0% AC Hydrolyzed Keratin 30 PF in water.

Images were captured on a Zeiss LSM 700 Laser Scanning Confocal Microscope or a Zeiss Sigma HD variable pressure SEM.

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Results: Confocol Microscopy

Confocal microscopy of Virgin Hair (A) Bleached Hair (B), Bleached Hair + 2.0% PhytoCycle™ Orange (C) Bleached Hair + 2.0% AC HydrolyzedKeratin 30 PF (D). All images present the result with the GFP filter, rhodamine filter (Rhod) and the combination of both filters (Merge =(GFP+Rhod)). Virgin hair presents high red/green florescence. Damaged, bleached hair with fewer lipids presents darker areas and cracking.

A B C DA B C D

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Results: SEM

SEM imaging of Virgin Hair (A) Bleached Hair (B), Bleached Hair + 2.0% PhytoCycle™ Orange (C) Bleached Hair + 2.0% AC Hydrolyzed Keratin30 PF (D). Bleached hair shows a more prominent and raised cuticle. Treatment with PhytoCycle™ Orange shows a smoothed cuticlecomparable to that of the virgin hair. Treatment with AC Hydrolyzed Keratin 30 PF shows a distinct film on the hair.

A B C D

PhytoCycleTM Orange

4 bleached hair swatches were treated with either 5.0%

PhytoCycle™ Orange, 5.0% AC Keratin Hydrolysate 30 PF,

water or nothing (untreated control). Each test swatch was

evenly soaked and blown dry for 1 minute. Initial images

were taken post treatment and drying. The hair swatches

were placed in the humidity chamber in a natural hanging

position. A 2000 ml beaker of boiling water was placed into

the chamber and the lid secured. Temperature and

humidity were monitored for the duration. Final images

were taken at 30 minutes.

PhytoCycle™ Orange is capable of protecting the hair from the deleterious effects of high humidity environments comparable to hydrolyzed keratin.

Pre-Humidity Exposure Post 30-minutes Humidity Exposure

ProtocolHair Humidity Protection Assay- vs Hydro lyzed Ke ra t in P ro te in

AC Keratin Hydrolysate 30 PFWaterUntreated

PhytoCycle™ Orange

AC Keratin Hydrolysate 30 PFWaterUntreated

PhytoCycle™ Orange

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Half-Head Salon Study- vs Hydro lyzed Wheat P ro te in

LEFT: Half Head Treated with 2.0% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein in Control Shampoo and Conditioner.

RIGHT: Half Head Treated with 2.0% PhytoCycle™ Orange in Control Shampoo and Conditioner.

Conducted on five participants. Baseline photos were taken

prior to the hair treatment. The participants were asked to

complete a survey rating their hair prior and post treatment

on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lowest and 10 being

the highest, using the following parameters: cleansing,

smoothing, dry and wet combability, anti-frizz, overall feel,

shine and hydration. Half of the head was treated with the

control shampoo and conditioner supplemented with 2.0%

hydrolyzed wheat protein while the other half of the head

was treated with 2.0% PhytoCycle™ Orange in the base

shampoo and base conditioner. After the application and

rinse of the test and positive control products, each

participant’s hair was blown dry using a round brush on

both sides of the head.

Protocol

Full Head Baseline, Untreated Hair.

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Half-Head Salon Study- vs Hydro lyzed Wheat P ro te in

The results of the assessment indicate that when

incorporated into a shampoo, 2.0% PhytoCycle™ Orange

showed comparative cleansing, smoothing, and wet

combability to that of 2.0% hydrolyzed wheat protein.

Additionally, when used in a conditioner PhytoCycle™

Orange performed comparatively to that of the 2.0%

hydrolyzed wheat protein, and was even shown to give a

slight improvement in smoothing, dry and wet combability,

anti-frizz, overall feel, shine, and hydration more than the

control conditioner. This comparative half-head study

demonstrates PhytoCycle™ Orange to be an efficient

protein-free alternative for rinse-off formulations without

any compromise to hair characteristics.

Hair assessment results for sensory characteristics in conditioner.

Results

The PhytoCycle™ Orange is a pseudo-protein systemproviding hydration and protection.

This active can be used to replace proteins in hair careapplications, promoting comparable benefits of hydration,protection and manageability to that of hydrolyzed wheatand hydrolyzed keratin proteins.

Derived from up-cycled orange pulp waste and “ugly”oranges, this natural active, supports the sustainable andclean movement.

In turn, this allows brands to connect with their customers,developing relationships of trust and transparency.

PhytoCycleTM Orange

Summary

PhytoCycleTM OrangeCode: 16925

INCI: Water & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Lactobacillus Ferment

Appearance: Clear to Slightly Hazy Liquid, Colorless to Pale Yellow

Suggested Use Level: 1–10%

Suggested Applications: Hydrating, Humidity Protection, Strengthening

References

1. SCCS (2014) Opinion On Hydrolyzed Wheat Proteins. SCCS/1534/14. Available: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_160.pdf

2. Scibisz, Marta & Arct, Jacek & Pytkowska, Katarzyna. (2008). Hydrolysed proteins in cosmetic production, part II. SOFW Journal Polish Edition. 1. 12-16.

3. Russell D. J. et al. (2000) Why Are Some Proteins Allergens?, Toxicological Sciences, Volume 55, Issue 2, June Pages 235–246, https://doi.org/10.1093/toxsci/55.2.235

4. Pronin D, Börner A, Scherf KA (2021) Old and modern wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) cultivars and their potential to elicit celiac disease. Food Chem 339: 127952, DOI: 10.1016/j.foodchem.2020.127952.

5. Pronin D, Börner A, Weber H, Scherf KA (2020) Wheat (Triticum aestivum L.) breeding from 1891 to 2010 contributed to increasing yield and glutenin contents but decreasing protein and gliadin contents. J Agric Food Chem, DOI: 10.1021/acs.jafc.0c02815.

6. Katz, S. E. (2012). The art of fermentation: an in-depth exploration of essential concepts and processes from around the world. White River Junction, Vt.: Chelsea Green Pub.

7. Patent WO2015018711A1: Production of textile from citrus fruit.

WE BS ITE

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A c t i v e C o n c e p t s S R L

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