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History of Camp County Viticulture Running Head: HISTORY OF CAMP COUNTY VITICULTURE History of the Viticulture Industry in Camp County, Texas Phillip A. Jones Texas A&M University Texarkana 1
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Page 1: Phillip A -  · Web viewPhillip A. Jones Texas A&M University Texarkana Texan’s have many reasons to be proud of their state. One source of pride is the viticulture industry. Texas

History of Camp County Viticulture

Running Head: HISTORY OF CAMP COUNTY VITICULTURE

History of the

Viticulture Industry in Camp County,

Texas

Phillip A. Jones

Texas A&M University

Texarkana

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Page 2: Phillip A -  · Web viewPhillip A. Jones Texas A&M University Texarkana Texan’s have many reasons to be proud of their state. One source of pride is the viticulture industry. Texas

History of Camp County Viticulture

Texan’s have many reasons to be proud of their state. One source of pride is the

viticulture industry. Texas wines win awards and compete with the best the world offers,

such as Jacob’s Creek from southern Australia, winner of three Silver Medals in 2007, or

Barefoot Cellars of Napa, California which proudly mention on their bottles, that they

won twenty plus awards since 2005. Table grapes are also continually being studied and

tested for viability as a production crop for Texas. Another reason of pride is the ability

of some Texans to buck trends, go against the grain and succeed when conventional

wisdom says it cannot be done. Camp County, located in the northern half of east Texas,

has three such entities, producing grapes. Their historic contributions to an increasing

Texas viticulture industry are waiting to be told. This is a modest attempt to do just that.

East Texas as a region is considered “grape disease territory,” and Camp County

is located wholly within this region (McEachern, 2003). Diseases fatal or near fatal to

grapes prevalent in Camp County are Black Rot, a fungal disease, and Pierce’s Disease,

which is bacterial in nature (McEachern, 2003, Burns, 2004). Because of the prevalence

of these diseases, the common practice for wineries located in the east Texas region is to

bottle wine from grapes grown in other regions of the state or nation. A good example of

this is another recent startup in East Texas, LouViney Vineyard and Winery located in

Wood County (Marshall, 2007, pp.203-205). One vineyard, Headwaters Farm and two

wineries, Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards and St. Rose Vineyard & Winery are attempting to

reverse that trend.

Los Pinos Ranch has created a “Texas Niche” in Camp County (East Texas

Journal, 2005). The vineyard grows varieties of vinifera grapes, and produces and

bottles its own wine, with a present production level of 5,000 cases annually (Lankford,

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History of Camp County Viticulture

2007). The self-promotion efforts of this vineyard have been noted and are creating

increasing interest about viticulture in East Texas. There are many varieties of vinifera

grapes and these cultivars are what the majority of the Texas viticulture industry

concentrates on growing. This fact is shown by the time and effort spent on cultivar trial

plantings and constant testing (Lipe, Davenport, 2004). These continual trials support an

industry response guided towards wine production as opposed to table grapes. St. Rose

Vineyard & Winery, nee Guerra Vineyard & Winery has taken a completely different

track, with increasing recognition outside of self-promotion. They are producing award-

winning wine from the Muscadine grape (Siegel, 2007).

A word about Muscadine grapes. Long considered unsuitable for wine

production, Muscadine grapes have been modernized and improved through extensive

breeding programs located at Universities in Georgia, Florida, North Carolina, and South

Carolina (Hoffman, 2005). Hoffman also mentions they are resistant to many of the

diseases that affect vinifera cultivars, and have great potential in the Texas Market

(2005). These two wineries are ignoring conventional wisdom that grapes, which will

make quality wines, cannot grow in East Texas. Each one is contributing to Texas

viticulture using two of the six “types” of grape grown in Texas. These types are Vitis

vinifera, French X American hybrids, American varieties, Muscadines [Vitis

rotundifolia], rootstocks, and natives (McEachern, 2003). Native varieties and American

varieties may be considered the same thing to laymen’, however, the two are as distinctly

different as a housecat and a tiger, same Genus, different species. These differences

include fruit size, skin thickness, bunching characteristics, and leaf shape. In order to

give the story of Los Pinos, St. Rose, and Headwaters Farm vineyards their true

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History of Camp County Viticulture

perspective, a general overview of the viticulture industry’s checkered past in Texas is

needed.

McEachern contends “Grapes have grown naturally along rivers and streams in

Texas for thousands of years” (2003). While others claim that viticulture in Texas is only

three centuries old and was introduced by European settlers, especially Franciscan monks

(Handbook of Texas, 2001). Anthropologists and Historians can conceive that the earliest

tribes of man in Texas did realize grapes were, at the least a food source, and took steps

to protect the vines.* This, in the purest theoretical sense of viticulture constitutes

viticulture by this author’s standard. However the traditional cultivated vineyard must be

credited to “Franciscans who in 1682 established a mission at Ysleta … near El Paso”

(Handbook, 2001, McEachern, 2003). Texas Wine Ambassador Program, or T.W.A.P.,

helps those interested in Texas viticulture history by dividing it into five “eras” the time

before prohibition (pre 1919), the time following prohibition (post 1933), and the final

three eras beginning in the early 1970’s (T.W.A.P., 2007). These final three eras break

down to approximately the early 1970’s, when interest was expanding, the rapid

expansion of the 1980’s where production increased exponentially, and post 1980’s

(Handbook, 2001).

The time before prohibition gave viticulture one of its greatest minds. Thomas V.

Munson of Denison Texas catalogued the 1,000 varieties of grape native to North

America and Texas between 1880 and 1910 (Handbook, 2001 McEachern, 2003). He

* Explanatory note: Michael C. Meyer, William L. Sherman, and Susan M. Deeds authors of The Course of Mexican History, 7th ed. (New York: Oxford Press, 2003) on page 4 provide a chart listing the evolution periods of humans in Mexican areas of North America. On this chart the time frame of 8000-2000 B.C. show the “Slowly evolving domestication of food plants.” Thomas A. Bailey, David M. Kennedy, and Lizabeth Cohen authors of The American Pageant, 11th ed. (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1998) on page 9, note the role that increasing agriculture had on Native American lives and where the settlements would “periodically gather into encampments along a riverbank.” While these gatherings were mainly for fishing, agriculture in the form of gathering edible plants occurred by the women of hunter-gatherer tribes.

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History of Camp County Viticulture

established a nursery in Denison, which allowed him to propagate and ship grapevines

throughout the South (McEachern, 2003). It was at this nursery where Wagner credits

him with the discovery of one of the best “native” species for wine making, the Catawba

(1933, p. 50). Chemistry of Winemaking even cites him in many chapters determining

which grapes make good “native American” wines (Webb, et al, 1974). Muscadines

were not considered as suitable for wine production. Wagner also notes that Munson

himself “admitted that out of the 75,000 seedlings which he grew, not more than 100

could be looked upon as worth perpetuating” (1933, p. 67).

It was during the early 1900’s some progress in the viticulture industry was made

as small wineries were sprinkled around Texas, such as Fredericksburg, Brenham, and El

Paso (Handbook, 2001). Munson undoubtedly helped these wineries either through the

provision of stock, or the knowledge gleaned from his research. Prohibition effectively

ended commercial viticulture in Texas with only Val Verde Winery surviving

(McEachern, 2003). Between the end of Prohibition in 1933 and the late 1960’s there

was little interest in commercial viticulture.

The general public’s revived interest in wine starting in the late 1960’s ended the

practice of viticulture mainly conducted by small growers for home or local consumption

(Handbook, 2001). The tale of Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards, St. Rose Vineyards, and

Headwaters Farm starts in the later half of this revival, in fact not until after the turn of

the century. However, disease and climate are such limiting factors for viticulture in

Texas that one more aside from their story is required to explain the effects of both and

provide some insight into why Los Pinos, St. Rose, and Headwaters Farm are defying

historical norms.

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History of Camp County Viticulture

It was during the time of little interest in viticulture that extensive trial plantings

conducted by the Texas A&M University Extension service helped to delineate regions

and viability of grape species for commercial production (McEachern, 2003). The Texas

Winery Guide or T.W.G. divides the state into four distinct regions: central, north,

southeast, and west (2007). McEachern further divides the regions into the South Plains,

Far west, Hill country, West Cross timber, East, and South (2003). These trials identified

the prevalent climate and disease issues that have to be addressed by viticulturists

throughout Texas. East Texas, where Camp County is located, is in the North region or

the East region depending on which authority cited (T.W.G., 2007, McEachern, 2003).

Specific disease’s affecting Camp County have already been addressed, those being

Black Rot and Pierces Disease, which makes cold hardiness a major climatic concern, of

many for both of these two vineyards in Camp County. Cold hardiness is an issue

because some varieties of grapes do not do well when the temperature goes below

freezing.

Pierces’s Disease, a major factor in Camp County, is extremely hazardous to

vinifera cultivars. The disease can completely destroy a vineyard causing “grape clusters

to shrivel and the stem of the vine to grow stunted and misshapen” (Burns, 2004). It is

such a problem and threat to the viticulture industry that numerous “multi-institution

interdisciplinary” programs are working on ways to manage Pierce’s (Hellman, 2006).

One of these is a DNA study conducted to fight Pierce’s in the Texas hill country region

(Burns 2004). Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards is involved in assisting researchers of this

disease (Sneed, 2008). Armed with this necessary information, Camp County Texas

viticultural history can now be told.

6

Pct 1Dry

Pct 2Dry

Pct 4Dry

Pct 3Wet

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History of Camp County Viticulture

Camp County and Precinct’s with Alcohol sale’s Status

Camp County Texas was formed out of Upshur County on April 6, 1874 by an act

of the Texas Legislature. (Spencer, 1974, p. ix) For all of its existence it has been

primarily agrarian and largely rural. The county is best known as the birthplace and

headquarters of Pilgrim’s Pride, the largest poultry producer in the United States. It has

also been a “DRY” county, meaning a total ban on alcohol, until the voters of the third

precinct voted themselves “WET” in 1978 (CNTY CT Minutes Vol. 10, p. 602). This

distinction is important as all the vineyards and wineries are located in the remaining

three “DRY” precincts.

The growing of sustenance crops for their own families and a very few cash crops

was the focus of agriculture in the early years of the county. These early cash crops were

cotton, sweet potatoes, and pecans (Spencer, 1974, 135-137). The copy of the United

States Agriculture Census for 1880, stored in the records of Camp County’s Faye

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History of Camp County Viticulture

McMinn Genealogical Research Center, lists by precinct the farmers and ranchers of

Camp County.

Vineyard Locations

HeadwatersFarm

St. RoseVineyard &

Winery

Los PinosVineyards

WetPrecinct

Pittsburg

On this form there is a column for listing the number of acres planted in vineyard.

While most sections are illegible, the ones clear enough to read show that no vineyards,

commercial or private, were noted then. Evidence of viticulture activity is not found in

the United States Agricultural Census until the year 1987 (Ag Census, 1987). In that year

there is recorded a total of three farms in Camp County with a total of seventy-two vines

of bearing age. In 1997 the number of farms had increased by one, Guerra Vineyard, to

four and the data on number of bearing plants is withheld to protect individual farms.

This is not an auspicious start. The growing of grapes for other than home consumption

was likely not considered by farmers busy working to feed themselves and their families.

8

N

Los Pinos Vineyards St. Rose Vineyard & Winery Headwaters Farm

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History of Camp County Viticulture

Viticulture as a business was non-existent. Still, attempts at winemaking of a sort went

on as the following recollection shows.

One of the earliest memories of Kitty Bynum, born and raised in Camp County, is

of traipsing after her older brothers and sisters during the late 1930’s, early 40’s as they

harvested the wild Muscadines that grew along the creeks of her family’s farm in the

southern part of the county (2007). She remembers that once they had enough to fill a

“big ol’ [sic] jug” about three-fourths full, they would crush the gathered grapes, put

them in the jar, seal it, and then bury it in the woods for six to eight months (Bynum,

2007). This concoction would ferment into a primitive sort of wine, which her older

siblings would mix with water and add sugar if needed, then drink. This process was far

from the refined methods and product being produced from genetically the same grape

today at the St. Rose Vineyard and Winery.

St. Rose Vineyard and Winery began life in 1994, with initial plantings, a deep

well, and installation of irrigation, which makes it the oldest verifiable existing vineyard

in Camp County. The winery is the project of the late Rosemary Guerra and is presently

owned by her daughter and son-in-law Mark and Ann Arra. Business started as Guerra

Vineyard and Winery in 2005 with the name being changed to St. Rose in late 2007 to

honor the late founder (Arra, 2007). A short version of how Mrs. Guerra started the

winery can be found in The Wine Roads of Texas, by Wes Marshall.

As Marshall states in his opening paragraph on Guerra Vineyard, Rosemary and

her husband Dr. Manuel Guerra had spent the last forty years in Pittsburg TX (2007,

200). Marshall was able to speak with Mrs. Guerra prior to her passing on February 3,

2007. Her husband, who still practices medicine in Pittsburg, survives her. Dr. Guerra

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History of Camp County Viticulture

established his practice in Camp County in January of 1966 and Rosemary worked with

him for the remainder of her life, both in the office and as a lab technician (Pittsburg

Gazette, 2007; Camp County Customs & Characters, 1986).

Rosemary Guerra, who graduated with a B.S. degree in Microbiology from Iowa

State, went to Grayson County College in Denison and studied viticulture and enology at

the school established there in honor of T.V. Munson. Her degree and work as a lab

technician for her husband’s practice gave her a good grounding in the chemistry needed

to eventually produce quality wine. Testament is the numerous awards handed out by

appreciative judges when judged at wine tasting events like GrapeFest, mentioned further

below (Siegel, 2007).

Ann, present owner and Rose’s daughter, second generation viticulturist explains

that when her mother initially planted the vineyard on the family property northwest of

town, it was to indulge her love of farming, as well as provide both her and Dr. Guerra

“something to do” when they retired (Arra, 2007). That was the plan, but her untimely

passage and his continued practicing of medicine is allowing Ann and her husband Mark

to finish Rose’s dream. The winery and tasting room sit on approximately 50 acres of

gently sloping land in the lower half of the northwest corner of Camp County. There are

approximately 4 acres under vine with 800 plants in cultivation (Arra, 2007, Marshall,

2007, p.201). These are divided into sections based on type of Muscadine. ISON, a

patented dark variety, and Carlos a bronze variety, are just two of the types she planted.

As a daughter of a farm family growing up, and with a love for the land, Rose understood

that farmers have to work with the land not against it. This was the driving reason she

chose to plant Muscadine varieties of grape instead of vinifera types to grow. The natural

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History of Camp County Viticulture

hardiness of the Muscadine and a sensible pest control plan are the only concessions

made by the vineyard to the prevalent disease and climate issues that would be so

damaging. Her common sense can be seen throughout the vineyard. The supports for the

wires are recycled railroad ties, and the wire for the vines to trail on is plain barbed wire,

which is less expensive and readily available in Texas displaying her foresight and thrift.

The tasting room itself is also recycled, as a promotional flyer states. It is believed to be

one hundred years old, and was a sweet potato smoke house (Arra, 2007).

The initial planting of grapevines was in 1994 and is located closest to the road

and next to the wood frame building that is now the office of Joe Carattini, a family

friend from Ecuador who Ann has employed to manage the day-to-day operations of the

vineyard. At the time the Guerra’s purchased the property it was the farmhouse. As

Marshall quotes and Carattini explains with Ann filling in any missing information, the

initial offerings from the vineyard were jams, jellies, syrups, and preserves (2007). The

large number and sheer vitality of the plant, as Rose was quoted explaining to Marshall

“In our ground, Muscadine grows so fast that the shoots will touch each other…within

days” (2007, p. 200), soon had Rose trying to find ways to use the grapes. Grapes were

initially advertised as a “U-pick” operation to anyone who wanted to come and pick.

Things then progressed to selling grapes and all the above-mentioned types of grape

products at local and regional farmers markets (Arra, 2007). Eventually even these efforts

were not enough to handle the amounts of grapes grown and the winery was created.

Opening for business as a winery in 2005, St. Rose continued to make the fruit

wine she had been producing and used her skill with chemistry to start making award

winning Muscadine wine. Rose’s handwritten notebook, or diary, still in use by Ann

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History of Camp County Viticulture

with chemical models of the ingredients, lists of how much of each ingredient to add and

other vitally important information is amazing to read. There is no doubt after examining

this book and tasting the results of such meticulous care as to why St. Rose Signature Red

won a Silver medal at the 2006 Lone Star Wine Competition and a Gold medal in 2007 at

the same competition. These competitions are tasting’s where connoisseurs, Enologists

(wine scientists), and critics judge samples of wine by drinking them and comparing them

against their peer wines. The same wine was the 2007 People’s Choice award winner at

the 2007 GrapeFest, a trade show, or celebration sponsored by the city of Grapevine

Texas annually, to celebrate Texas viticulture. FoxyBlue and FoxyPeach two other

varieties of Muscadine/fruit proprietary blends won 3rd and 2nd place respectively at the

very same GrapeFest. This is an amazing accomplishment for a winery in its first two

years of production and bodes well for the future.

Another aspect of growth is the increasing expansion of the distribution network.

The high quality of the wine has overcome some initial unease by connoisseurs who

would snub their nose at Muscadine wine (Arra, 2007). The wine is found in many

package stores throughout east Texas and in the DFW Metro-area. Carrattini mentions

that demand for St. Rose wine in the Tyler area is such that a partnership with another

east Texas winery licensed to conduct wine sales in that community was forged and the

sales are so brisk, wine cannot be kept in stock at the Tyler location. With this rosy

future, Rosemary Guerra must truly be smiling about how the results of her “finding

something to do” have turned out and appear to be developing (Arra, 2007).

Headwaters Farm started as a dream in 1999. Graduating from Trinity Valley

Community College in December of that year, with a degree in Horticulture, Phillip

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History of Camp County Viticulture

Jones looked to expand the landscape maintenance company he owned into the nursery

business and started looking for land away from the DFW metroplex. Jones and family,

along with his brother Brent Jones’ family, began to remove themselves from Dallas

Texas and found their quiet spot in the country. This was achieved in July 2000 as a 24-

acre tract of heavily wooded and neglected property, located in the western side of Camp

County, was won in a bidding process through the Texas Veterans Commission Land

Board (Jones, 2008).

Starting to clear swathes of trees and brush in an agonizingly slow process of

slash and burn, an area for Phillip’s home was cleared and initial nursery infrastructure

was installed. Every spare weekend and vacation in 2000 and 2001 was used and the

final occupation of home and farm occurred in late September 2001. On September 11,

2001 a water well for the irrigation system was dug (Jones, 2008). Initial elements of the

vineyard to come were discussed as a viable alternative to the landscape maintenance

business at this time. Discussion was prompted by discovery of the remains of an

abandoned homestead with four grapevines planted in a semblance of rows.

Continuing the above mentioned landscape maintenance business, and returning

all capital to the improvement of the farm, the decision was made to cease landscape

maintenance and concentrate on viticulture as the primary source of income. Headwaters

Farm started business in January of 2002 growing Muscadine Grapes (Jones, 2008).

Jones was completely unaware of the previously mentioned efforts of the Guerra’s, at this

time. Only later upon his return from service in Iraq in 2004-05, as a combat engineer,

and the subsequent opening of St. Rose Vineyard &Winery did he discover his idea of

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History of Camp County Viticulture

growing Muscadines in Camp County commercially was not unique and had begun years

earlier.

The initial planting of twenty Muscadines happened in December of 2001. Five

rows of four vines each containing the varieties Noble, Carlos, Scuppernong, and Hunt

were put in on the southerly facing slope of the high north side of the property in what

had been a grown over pasture. Further clearing, again by hand using slash and burn,

resulted in the area being ready for expansion by another sixty vines in January of 2004.

Jones’ wife Shelley and two sons Jacob and Jeremiah built all the trellis and supports, as

well as planted the new vines by themselves. Jones was mobilized for Operation Iraqi

Freedom in December 2003 and unable to participate.

It was during the fall of 2003 the initial planting of twenty vines produced their

first crop. Shelley quickly turned this into jelly and sold out all twenty cases by

December. Returning to Headwaters in March of 2005, Jones and family worked on

finding an outlet for literally the fruits of their labor. This was realized with a partnership

between Jones and Brent to utilize a store- front on highway 80 in Mineola, Texas selling

Headwaters Farm jams and jellies, and produce grown by Brent’s family in Mineola.

Sales have increased almost yearly and the future appears good for continued growth

(Jones, 2008).

In 2005 the drought almost claimed the vineyard at Headwaters Farm. It was in

the fall the water in the well put in on September 11th had fallen to a level the pump could

not reach. Fortunately some quick financial restructuring allowed for a short-term

solution of connecting to the community water supply and a long-term fix by the

construction of a pond in January 2006 to hold water as a supplement to the well.

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History of Camp County Viticulture

Climatic and disease issues have been addressed, as well as can be, by planting

Muscadine grapes. Doing so shows Headwaters Farm conceding, as has St. Rose

Vineyard &Winery, to nature by choosing the hardier species of grapevine. A few other

varieties of Muscadine were planted and they are Higgins, ISON, and Dixieland added to

the previously mentioned varieties. The years 2006 and 2007 saw the latest expansion by

another two sections to bring the total acreage “under vine” up to two and a half and a

total of 152 vines in the ground by the start of 2008. An Internet website was started to

market jellies in 2007 with the first sales coming early in the first months of 2008. At

this time there are no plans to enter the winemaking side of viticulture. There exists

however, the possibility of providing grapes to others for winemaking.

Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards is the end result of a desire to make quality wine. Jeff

Sneed, a native Californian trained as an architectural engineer, moved to Camp County

Texas on December 4, 2000, to begin to make wine (Lankford, 2007; Marshall, 2007, p.

202; Sneed, 2008). Sneed searched for his property carefully and thoroughly (Marshall,

p. 202, 2007). Sneed had done enough research into the process of growing grapes in

Texas that he was aware of the disease issues he faced in East Texas. Undaunted by the

challenge he deliberately chose the Camp County property for three reasons: a.) he

wanted to live “in the country”, b.) West Texas may be the place to grow grapes, but east

Texas is the place to sell wine, and c.) he simply liked the way the property looked

(Sneed, 2008).

As Marshall notes, four months after purchase Sneed was installing his vineyard

(2007, p.202). Aware that he was bucking the trend mentioned earlier, of bottling wine

in east Texas from grapes grown in other regions of the state, Sneed diligently planted

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History of Camp County Viticulture

vinifera species of grape and put ten acres of his forty acres ‘under vine’ (Lankford,

2007; 2008). Planting the vinifera varieties of Blanc du Bois, Black Spanish, Cynthiana,

Cabernet Sauvignon, one row of Champanelle for jelly, and an experimental lot of

Carbonara grapes, he did make concessions to the disease factor (Lankford, 2007; Sneed,

2008). Blanc du Bois and Black Spanish are the varieties that have proven to be Pierce’s

disease resistant. Sneed has one other concession to disease: a long-term contract for

grapes with a property in west Texas to help ensure steady production levels (2008).

Lankford cites and Sneed confirmed that the Carbonara lot is the only planting of this

type outside of the nation of Chile (2007; Sneed, 2008).

Sneed’s success with these varieties of vinifera has attracted the attention of the

Texas Agriculture Department. He is presently on the state advisory board for viticulture

for this region. The state will even be conducting research studies for improved disease

resistant varieties at Los Pinos (Sneed, 2008). These research studies guarantee

viticulture in Camp County must be mentioned in years to come when Texas viticulture is

discussed. This places Camp County in a position much like the early 1900 test

vineyards, which cannot be left out of a history of Texas viticulture if thoroughness is the

objective. Sneed’s position on the advisory board and the investment in Camp County

research has occurred since 2005, when state involvement in the viticulture industry

increased.

The years of 2001 and 2002 were spent laying the groundwork for what are

presently four businesses, if considered separately, and starting them from nothing. The

four distinct sectors of the vineyard operation as Sneed explains are the farming of the

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History of Camp County Viticulture

vineyard, manufacturing of the wine, retailing of his finished product, and finally the

onsite restaurant where cuisine complimenting his wines is served (2008).

Sneed knew very early he had made the right choice in location. During

conversion of the old barn on the property into the tasting room/retail area/restaurant

Sneed ran into trouble. Pouring concrete for a floor in the barn he had to get the concrete

poured into the bucket of his tractor and then carried it to the part of the barn he was

pouring the concrete in. Due to the temperature and distance between the truck and the

pour rate into the bucket, the concrete was starting to harden before Sneed could get to

spreading the growing approximately three and one half foot tall pile. When he jumped

off the tractor to begin spreading concrete he was fighting a losing battle. The driver of

the concrete truck saw his predicament and climbed down to assist him. In his own

words “In California the guy would have sat in the A.C. of the cab and ate a sandwich.

The friendly helpfulness of him and others I have come in contact with here is what I

love about Texas” (Sneed, 2008).

Sneed opened for business in 2002 to mixed reviews. As mentioned previously

his tasting room and vineyard are located in one of the three “DRY” precincts of Camp

County (refer to map). There is a palpable love/hate relationship with a significant

portion of residents according to Sneed. The residents appear to be in one of two camps:

they are either happy that the winery is bringing different cultural influences to Camp

County, through marketing and themed events; or, they think that alcohol in any fashion

is evil (Sneed, 2008). Marshall notes the opening day in 2002 when “more than a

thousand people showed up” (2007, p.203). Sneed had told Lankford, and confirmed

when spoken with, the information of the winery turning into “a nightspot” when

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mentioning that there is standing room only on most Friday evenings (2007, 2008). This

is popular with a few locals though Sneed confirms the majority of customers are the

thousands of tourists who have heard about the winery through his marketing efforts. The

success of his vineyard marketing has drawn recognition of various levels. From the

previously mentioned position on the regional advisory board, to providing the

photograph used for the cover of Marshall’s The Wine Roads of Texas (2007). Sneed

became politically active in the county soon after the opening of the winery due to a

dramatic increase in his vineyard’s property taxes.

In May 2005 the winery was the site of the organization S.T.O.P’s (stop taxing

oppressing people) brainchild of Sneed and Pat Smith another local business owner,

original meeting to protest exorbitant increases in property taxes (Gay, 2005, p.1-2).

Sneed organized a petition drive which let local officials hear from disaffected taxpayers

in Camp County. Meetings for this organization were held at the winery, drawing

significant crowds to visit the operation (Sneed, 2008). An increased awareness by

citizens of Camp County of Los Pinos and the products it offered was one result of this

exposure. The organization’s efforts resulted in a review by the county tax assessor of

property tax valuations for residents of the county.

All three of these vineyards, and most importantly the two wineries, have made

and will continue to make significant impact on the economy of Camp County as will be

shown below with some statistical data. The impact of their efforts also affects the state

agricultural economy as well in a positive manner.

None of the three vineyards listed in the Ag Census of 1987 were found to have

an economic impact on the economy of Camp County after an extensive search of Ag

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History of Camp County Viticulture

census and county records. The Guerra Vineyard, as it was known in 1997, is the only

named vineyard found out of the four shown to exist on that year’s Ag Census. It is

apparently the only one still conducting business in Camp County. The figures cited in

the following paragraphs are estimations based on calculations of figures available. The

property tax rate is the actual combined rate for all Camp County taxing entities the three

vineyards have in common. As for property taxes, different exemptions are available to

the owners so the actual amounts paid could be considerably less. Actual sales tax

amounts collected have been suppressed by state law because of a statute to protect the

businesses due to the fact that less than four entities are doing business in the county

(Guajardo, 2008). All figures for sales tax revenue are calculated at the state of Texas

maximum 8.25% per 100% evaluation (Comptroller, 2008). Starting with the most

commercial vineyard, Los Pinos, and dealing solely with items produced from the grape,

either wine or jelly, the following totals show a historic view of the economic impact

these three vineyards have had for Camp County.

Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards wines cost on average between $12.50 and $23 per

bottle depending on purchase site and type of wine purchased (Sneed, 2008). Using an

average price of 15 dollars a bottle and the figure mentioned in the introduction of 5,000

cases annually, it is easy to calculate sales and sales tax income created. The estimated

sales generated by this vineyard alone equal approximately $900,000 per year. The

conservative amount of sales tax revenue generated by these sales figures is $74, 250

annually at the maximum state tax rate of 8.25% (Comptroller, 2008). Factor in the 2007

appraised value of the facilities and equipment of $318,310 if taxed at the combined max

rate of 1.597509%, equals $5,085.03 of property tax; Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards

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History of Camp County Viticulture

contributes approximately $80,000 annually as of 2007 to Camp County’s Economy.

This amount is up from the starting numbers of $116,930 for facilities and equipment in

2003 and $0 sales at the start of 2002 (Camp Central Appraisal District, 2008). The

property tax paid in 2003 for Los Pinos equaled $2640.38 if taxed at the max rate of

2.25809%. It is easy to see why Sneed was adamant and vocal in leading the charge for

property tax reform as noted earlier (Gay, 2005, p. 1-2). Headwaters Farm had as its

appraised value for 2007 the figure of $56,380, leading to a figure of $900.67 when taxed

at the max rate for 2007. This is up from $42,160 in its beginning year of 2002 when

taxed at a max rate of 1.914576% equaling $807.18 (Camp Central Appraisal District,

2008). Jams and jellies are considered food and as such are not subject to sales tax in the

state of Texas (TX Admin. Code, 2007). The sale price of a jar of jelly is $4 each with

2007 sales equaling approximately $850 with excess inventory to carry into 2008 for the

first time in existence. This is up from initial production and sales in 2003 of

approximately $372 (Jones, 2008).

St. Rose Vineyard & Winery showed a decline in its appraised values from 2006

to 2007. The appraisal for buildings and equipment in 2006 was $101, 960 and $58,320

in 2007. At the max rate for tax year 2007 the winery would have paid $931.67 in

property taxes. The 2006 amount would have been $1816.21 at a max tax rate of

1.781294%. The average price for St. Rose Vineyard &Winery wine is $10.00 (Arra,

2007). With an estimated annual case sales count of approximately 250 cases, this equals

estimated annual sales of approximately $30,000. Taxed at the state maximum of 8.25%

per 100% this equals approximately $2,475 in annual sales tax revenue (Comptroller,

2008). This equates to an annual combined total tax contribution to Camp County of

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History of Camp County Viticulture

approximately $84,307 for all three entities. As a percentage of total income into the tax

coffers of Camp County in 2007, this is quite an increase over 2000 when none of these

three vineyards were doing business. These figures equal approximately .06% of the

income credited to the county in the 2002 Economic Census figures, the latest data

available. These are respectable figures for entities in their first five years of existence as

further explained on the following charts.

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History of Camp County Viticulture 22

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History of Camp County Viticulture

Camp County Texas’ contributions to the varied history of Texas viticulture are

shown to be fairly recent. All identified vineyards/wineries having been shown to exist

for only the last two decades (Ag Census, 1987). However, this does not negate the

history making impact these three vineyards are having on Texas viticulture as well as the

economy of Camp County. The increased tourism from visitors visiting tasting rooms or

Los Pinos’ restaurant benefits other businesses as well by bringing people and their

dollars into the county. Sneed’s efforts have caused the State department of Agriculture

to continue to discourage vinifera viticulture in east Texas because of disease prevalence.

Because many think they can copy Sneed’s success against disease, the Texas

Department of Agriculture simply has to rethink its position and invest research and

money into viticulture in east Texas. In the heart of “chicken” country, Camp County is

where Pilgrim’s Pride was founded and is headquartered; an industry that is in the

process of growing statewide has taken root. Viticulture, especially the winemaking side,

appears to have a bright future in the history of Texas as a whole, and Camp County in

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History of Camp County Viticulture

particular. Increased monitoring and attempts to improve the viticulture industry by

local, regional, as well as State agencies is gaining momentum. Further study into the

vineyards of Camp County contributions to viticulture in Texas will be warranted in the

future. At this time the future appears promising. As shown, three pioneering vineyards

located in one of Texas’ smallest counties, are in the process of putting Camp County on

the viticulture map, ensuring that future discussions of Texas viticulture in a historical

sense cannot be complete without discussion of their contributions.

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History of Camp County Viticulture

History of Camp County Viticulture

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data maintained by Cornell University. Retrieved January 31, 2008, from

http://agcensus.mannlib.cornell.edu/show2.php.

Arra, A., Carattini, J. & Jones, P. (2007). [Interview notes between author, manager, and

one owner St. Rose Vineyard and Winery]. Unpublished raw data.

Burns, R. (2004 November). Research team combines DNA technology with entomology

research to fight wine grape disease. Research in Review. Retrieved October 1,

2007, from http://agnews.tamu.edu.

Bynum, K. & Jones, P. (2007). [Interview notes between author and resident of Camp

County 1934-1955]. Unpublished raw data.

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assessed rates for years 2000 through 2007]. Unpublished raw data.

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19, 1978. Volume 10 page 609. Pittsburg TX.

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Gay, R. (2005, May 26). Taxpayers form a coalition. The Pittsburg Gazette, pp. 1A, 2A.

Guajardo, C. (2008). [E-mail Correspondence from Research analyst Texas Comptroller

of Public Accounts]. Unpublished raw data.

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Hellman, E., Kamas, J. (2006). Texas Viticulture Report. SERA-14 2006 Annual Meeting.

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Jones, P. (2008). [Personal and Business records to include Deed, Tax I.D. number, tax

records, etc.]. Unpublished raw data.

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http://winegrapes.tamu.edu./research/texas/cultivartrial.shtml.

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History of Camp County Viticulture

East Texas Journal. (2005). Camp County winery carves a Texas niche. East Texas

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Lankford, R. (2007). Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards. Texascooking.com, June edition.

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Marshall, W. (2007). The Wine Roads of Texas. San Antonio TX: Maverick Publishing

Co.

Spencer, A. (1974). The Camp County Story. Fort Worth TX: Branch-Smith, Inc.

McEachern, G. (2003). A Texas Grape and Wine History. Proceedings of the 10th Annual

Oktober Gartenfest. Retrieved September 5, 2007 from http://aggie-

horticulture.tamu.edu/southerngarden/Texaswine.html.

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September 6, 2007 from www.depts.ttu.edu./hs/winetest/module1.asp.

Wagner, P. M. (1933). American Wines and How to make them. New York: Alfred A.

Knopf.

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