Volume 4 Issue 1 2008 WWW. P ASTRY AP .COM ISSN 1793-4508 S$5.50 / RM10 ASIA PACIFIC PASTRY & BAKING ASIA PACIFIC MICA (P) 149/09/2006 VOLUME 4 ISSUE 1 2008 KDN PPS 1641/2/2008 Asian A Asian A daptability daptability Philippe Daue Philippe Daue W W orld Ch orld Chocolate Masters ocolate Masters Asian Adaptability Philippe Daue Asian Adaptability Philippe Daue World Chocolate Masters World Chocolate Masters
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Volume 4 Issue 1 2008
W W W . P A S T R Y A P . C O M
ISSN 1793-4508
S$5.50 / RM10
A S I A P A C I F I C
PA
STR
Y &
BA
KIN
G A
SIA P
AC
IFIC
MIC
A (P
) 149/09/2006V
OL
UM
E 4 ISSU
E 1 2008
KD
N P
PS 1641/2/2008
Asian AAsian AdaptabilitydaptabilityPhilippe DauePhilippe Daue
WWorld Chorld Chocolate Mastersocolate Masters
Asian AdaptabilityPhilippe Daue
Asian AdaptabilityPhilippe Daue
World Chocolate MastersWorld Chocolate Masters
THE FINEST CONFECTION SELECTION
Rich, ultra-premium, handmade and exquisitely painted chocolates from Norman LoveConfections begins with the world’s finest ingredients—Swiss Grand Cru chocolateand ganaches created with Thai coconuts, Sicilian pistachios or Tahitian vanilla. We arepleased to offer our chocolates, available in more than three dozen tantalizing flavors, torestaurants, hotels, gourmet markets and catering companies nationwide. For informationplease call, visit our Web site or e-mail [email protected].
So you want to be a successful artisan baker? Perhaps yourdream is to establish a gourmet chocolate empire? Or, youaspire to one day run the pastry operations of a 5-star hotel.Lofty goals. But, not unachievable.
Going into this profession, you are obviously aware of thelong hours and demanding schedules. But, in order to acquirethe skills necessary for super stardom, how much of yourselfare you willing to give? In particular, and this is the hard part,are you willing to work for free to garner the type of experienceand know-how you could never amass at culinary school?
Now, a certain percentage of you are reading this andsaying “So, what’s the big deal. That’s exactly what I did.” And,a certain few of you are reading this with horror. “Work forfree? No way!” If you fall into the latter group, this letter isfor you.
Okay, so first of all, you pronounce it the French way, withan “ahh” sound. St-ah-ge. What is it? A ‘stage’ is somethingwhere you’re basically working as an unpaid intern. It’s anopportunity to see another kitchen and how it works and tolearn. Yes, “hands on”, “trial by fire”, “jumping in with twofeet”…real life learning. And, you pay for the privilege. Yoursweat, and sometimes tears, is the currency you tender andwhat you take away can be life altering.
Working like a dog without pay might seem like a crazyidea, but for the passionate, aspiring dessert professional, whowants to learn from the best, it’s often the only way. Europeis the ultimate stage destination for many aspiring culinarians.Labor laws are such that in many European countries,foreigners must forgo pay to work in trendsetting kitchens.Be forewarned, this is not for the feint of heart. If you thinkit’s tough in the kitchen you’re working in now, wait untilyou work in Europe. But, again, how bad do you want it?
Nothing beats real world experience and if you are luckyenough to know someone or someway to get a stage in aworld class restaurant, hotel or cruise line, take it. Your pocketswill be lighter but you will learn from some of the best andbring those honed skills back to your country and continueon down the road to success.
Felchlin Edelweiss Felchlin Edelweiss 36% awarded The Santé Gold Star
Top honors were given by SANTÉ, The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals, to Felchlin Switzerland for Edelweiss 36% White Chocolate for its supreme, clean, bold and distinctive creamy flavors.
Award
For more information on distributionin Asia-Pacifi c visit www.felchlin.com
30Chef in FocusExecutive Pastry Chef PhilippeDaue grew up in the Europeanhospitality industry but thisBelgian dessert pro employssituational adaptability to bestserve his guests at the Shangri-LaHotel Bangkok.
42Asian FusionLegendary Kim Young Mo shareshis unique approach to themarriage of classic Europeanpastry/baking with Asian tastesand sensibilities.
52Chocolate LoveWorld renowned pastry chefand chocolatier extraordinaireNorman Love presents adistinctive chocolate ball anddecorative rings right in timefor the holidays.
6
Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,
events and product updates for
the well informed professional.
14Regional ShowcaseJoin P&B AP on a tour of Asia Pacific
as we visit with and showcase
talented professionals who share
their favorite products and recipes.
46
Sugar ArtsThe incomparable Ewald Notter
provides step-by-step instruction and
insight into his passion and craft.
64
World Chocolate MastersComplete coverage of this event and
据美国禽蛋出口委员会香港分会会长 Sarah Li 透露,来自香港烘焙业界的90多位代表出席了一场面向烘焙大厨及其他烘焙业相关人士的研讨会,其中大多数与会者并不熟悉鸡蛋加工制品。两场研讨会均由美国鸡蛋联盟出资筹办。
曾供职于 Michael 食品的知名食品顾问兼化学工程师JimCampbell 担任研讨会的演讲嘉宾。他就美国的鸡蛋制品及其在食品服务行业中的应用发表了演讲。
与 Jim Campbell 一同参加研讨会的还有九龙香格里拉大酒店的著名西点主厨 Wins Hung。他为大家演示了如何在烘焙过程中应用到液体蛋白,液体蛋黄及干鸡蛋。
6 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Off The Wire
Egg Product WorkshopsRecently in Hong Kong, the USAPEEC conducted two workshopsto promote the use of U.S. processed egg products in the hospitality,food manufacturing, and food service sectors in Asia Pacific.
More than 90 representatives of the bakery trade in Hong Kong– many of whom were unfamiliar with processed eggs – showed upfor a seminar for bakery chefs and others involved in the bakeryindustry, according to USAPEEC Hong Kong Director Sarah Li.Both seminars were funded by the American Egg Board.
Noted food consultant Jim Campbell, a chemical engineer whoformerly worked for Michael Foods, was guest speaker. He gave apresentation on U.S. egg products and their functionality in foodservice.
Joining Campbell was well-known pastry chef Wins Hung ofthe Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel, who demonstrated how to use liquidegg white, liquid yolk, and dried whole egg in baking applications.
News, events and happeningsfrom around the region
La Rose Noire(黑玫瑰):香港第十八家分店开幕La Rose Noire品牌在位于九龙的繁华地段**尖沙嘴东部的Elements购物中心正式开设了第十八家西点分店。
La Rose Noire 的烘焙师将解答顾客们提出的问题,也会为大家介绍各种面包并讲解产品的不同之处,并可依据顾客的要求代为加热面包并切片。
La Rose Noire西点屋可谓是旧日街角西点铺在新时代的一次复兴,也是对于今日快速狂热生活方式的一种有益调剂。
7
La Rose Noire –18th Outlet inHong Kong
Hit the BooksLegendary chef Pichet Ong takes food lovers on ajourney into the little-known world of Asian dessertsin his groundbreaking book THE SWEET SPOT:Asian-Inspired Desserts. Beautifully photographedand full of anecdotes, Ong introduces readers to anew realm of culinary delight as he reveals the secretsof Asian desserts while making them accessible tohome cooks.
The recipes presented in THE SWEET SPOT showthat Asian desserts can tempt, excite and satisfy in waystraditional American desserts cannot. These spectacularculinary delights focus on making great flavor the toppriority. Instead of relyingon butter and sugar, thevibrant fruit and floral flavorsof Asia become the mainingredient. They will satisfyyour sweet tooth withoutsacr i f ic ing the c leansophistication that is theirhallmark.
书海撷珍在《“甜点”天书:亚洲风甜点》这一突破性著作中,
传奇式大厨 Pichet Ong 将带领美食爱好者们踏上甜点之旅,探寻鲜为人知的亚洲甜点世界。全书图片精美,
La Rose Noire brand has officiallyopened its 18th bakery outlet inElements Shopping Mall located inKowloon’s bustling Tsim Sha Tsui East.
Situated on the second level, LaRose Noire European Styled Bakeryoffers more than 120 varieties of freshlybaked breads, pastries, just-pressedfruit and vegetable juices and an awe-inspiring deli sandwich counter. With an emphasis on organic and naturalingredients appealing to today’s wellness conscious consumer, products arebaked or made around-the-clock ensuring unsurpassed freshness at anytimeof day. Even the barista coffees originate from ‘fair trade’ coffee farmers.
La Rose Noire’s bakers are available to answer questions or assist customersby explaining the differences and profiles for each of the breads and are happyto warm or slice your selection upon your request.
La Rose Noire Bakery is a new millennium version of the old world’s cornerbakery and a welcomed addition to today’s fast paced and hectic lifestyle.
THE TRENDY-MINISValrhona launches the “Trendy-Minis”, the new one-bite chocolatepralines collection, high in colors, high in flavours!
Discover the strength of Valrhona dark chocolate and the smoothnessof a delicately perfumed milk chocolate ganache, contrasting withluscious flavours and the fusion of fruits and aromatic herbs.
A single mouthful of pure pleasure!Four gorgeous combinations available in 1-kg boxes:- Passion fruit & mint- Blackcurrant & basil- Raspberry & lemon balm- Lemon & aniseed
Off The Wire
Chocolate is a LifestyleRecently, The Embassy of Chocolate, TULIP hosted its 4thinstallment of The Jakarta Chocolate Expo. Taking placeat Semanggi Expo exhibition hall in the Sudirman CentralBusiness District, South Jakarta, the three-day expositionfeatured 40 companies and more than 50 local and foreignchocolate brands.
Due to the popularity of previous events and the evergrowing demand of Indonesian and Asian consumers, TULIPfelt compelled to put forth an even bigger and moresophisticated chocolate spectacular for both the retailcustomer and culinary professional.
With the theme “Chocolate is a Lifestyle”, The JakartaChocolate Expo presented numerous seminars and learningactivities along with live baking demonstrations, a 3.5 meterhigh chocolate fountain and the much anticipated ChefCompetition with total prizes exceeding US $7,000. Yet, thecrowd favorite, as in years past, was the show stoppingchocolate fashion show.
Accommodating more than35,000 visitors, the purpose ofThe Jakarta Chocolate Expo,a c c o r d i n g t o T U L I Pspokeswomen Elvira Koto, is“to promote and generateawareness to Indonesian-madechocolates.”
Inaugural Wine &Gourmet ASIAWine & Gourmet Asia has been successfullyestablished as the regional networking platformfor the fine wine, gourmet and hospitality industry,following the resounding success of the inauguralevent in Macau.
Held at The Cotai Strip Convention andExhibition Center at The Venetian Macao, the Wine& Gourmet ASIA 2007 trade exhibition attracted7,300 trade visitors, with over 55% traveling fromoutside of Macau. It was the first specialized F&Btrade event to take place in Macau with 142exhibitors from 23 countries and regions fromaround the world participating.
“With the success of this year’s event, we arepleased to announce that Wine & Gourmet ASIA2008 has been confirmed to take place at the samelocation from 5-7 November 2008,” said KoelnmesseAsia Pacific Vice President Michael Dreyer.
“I am very pleased with the trade visitor qualityat Wine & Gourmet ASIA 2007, which is one of thekey factors in the success of the show. We saw thetop decision-makers and buyers of food service andcatering market from the region and out of Asiaparticipate in many discussions with our exhibitors.”
10 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Off The Wire
Food & HotelVietnam 2007Food & Hote l Vietnam 2007(FHV2007), the fourth InternationalFood & Drinks, Hotel, Restaurant, Bakery & Foodservice Equipment,Supplies & Services Exhibition and Conference ended recently afterattracting a total of 8,374 business and trade visitors from all over theworld.
Spreading across three halls of the Ho Chi Minh International Exhibitionand Convention Centre (HIECC), FHV2007 occupied 7,000 square metresof exhibition space and drew international participation from 11 grouppavilions and 240 exhibiting companies representing 22 countries/regions.
As Vietnam’s choice international food, beverage and hospitality tradeexhibition, FHV2007 has attracted a diverse range of visitors, includingprofessionals from the F&B, hotel, restaurant, hospitality technology andequipment sectors. Exhibitors at the event were happy with the quality oftrade buyers that visited the exhibition.
“This show is excellent, one of the best. All the exporters are very happy.We are coming back, that is for sure – with a bigger booth!” said Ms.Margaret Say, Regional Director, USA Poultry & Egg Export Council.
Within FHV2007 were concurrent events such as the exciting VietnamCulinary Challenge, where Vietnam’s top culinary chefs demonstrated theirculinary creativity to the highest level by pitting their skills against theirprofessional peers. The competition drew a total of 69 participants fromleading F&B establishments in Vietnam, including the Grand Hotel, MajesticHotel, Vietnam Air Caterers, Sofitel Hotel and ABC Bakery. Gold winnersincluded professionals from Vietnam Air Caterers and Songbe Golf Co.Competition sponsors included the USA Poultry & Egg Export Council,Fonterra Brands, New Viet Dairy,Charles Wembley (S.E.A.) and NhatNam Fine Foods.
The next Food&HotelVietnamexhibition and conference willreturn in 2009. Please visit www.foodnhotelvietnam.com for moreinformation.
Frozen fruits, fruits purees and coulis extra: here are 52 intense and natural fl avours. Your expectations have
shaped the unrivalled quality of our products. Safe and easy to use, they will allow your imagination to run wild.
Our chefs are always available for advice and our distributors are by your side every day.
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Nothing great was ever done without passion…
FROZEN FRUITS, FRUIT PUREES, FRUIT COULIS
For any further information, contact:
Tel: 33 (1) 45 60 73 32or visit our website
www.boironfreres.com
AP_Instit_GB-CHIN_A4.indd 1 5/11/07 16:59:47
12 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
dobla.comDOBLA BV, The Netherlands
We have distributors all over South East Asia/Pacific. Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com
Recipe made by
Arthur Tuytel, Patissier chocolatier ‘Crème de la Crème’. Member of the Dutch Pastry Team. Arthur used the Dobla ‘Domino square dark/white’ and the ‘Rose dark/white’.
INNOVATION IN CHOCOLATE ASSOCIATE MEMBER OF
Visit Dobla’s stand
from 29 March - 2 April 2008 in Paris, France
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4923 Ad Pastry & Baking Asia_v2.indd 1 17-01-2008 15:59:10
14 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
RegionalShowcase
The chocolate to be enjoyedin capital letters.
Xocoline, the new sugar-free creation by Valrhona, combines the full flavour of a great65% dark chocolate with the subtle overtones of oak. This unique blend of fine cocoavarieties is a tribute to the creativity of our master chocolate makers.
Almond Cake (40 cm x 60 cm)295g egg yolk130g sugarS.Q. vanilla flavor215g milk240g cake flour80g almond flour425g egg white160g sugar5g cream of tartar
1. Whip egg yolk and sugar
2. Cook milk to 80°C and pour into eggyolk
3. Whip egg white, sugar and tartar cream(soft whipped). Add into mixture.
4. Sift cake flour and almond flour, addinto mixture.
Assembly1. Put one layer of almond cake at the
bottom and then add cheese mousse.
2. Next, layer the chocolate mousse andone more almond cake.
3. Add layer of berry brulee and chocolatemousse.
4. Cheese mousse and finally withchocolate mousse on top.
5. Add necessary decoration withchocolate spray and lids.
17
Temptation
4. Fold in egg yolk mixture intomeringue. Pour into prepared pansand bake for 25 to 30 minutes or untildone. Cool in pan for 10 minutes theninvert onto a cooling rack. Coolcompletely.
Filing and Frosting100g egg yolks100g granulated sugar60 ml water15 ml light corn syrup180 ml coconut jam or more3 to 60 ml lambanog or coconut liquor400g butter, softened60 ml cream or milk160g toasted coconutCarved lemon lime rind in syrup
1. In a bowl, beat egg yolks till light.Meanwhile, cook together sugar, waterand corn syrup in a saucepan till threadstage. Pour into beaten yolks. Beat untilcool.
2. Add coconut jam then beat in creamor milk. Add lambanog, beat well.Use this to fill and frost cakes. Garnishwith toasted coconut. Top with carvelemon lime rind in syrup.
Rum California Raisins Sans RivalMeringue1 cup egg white1 tsp cream of tartar1 cup + 2 tbsp sugar13/4 cups cashew, chopped1/3 cup cashew, toasted
1. Preheat oven to 275ºF. Line cookiesheets with parchment paper or siliconmat. Set aside.
2. Beat together egg white with cream oftartar until frothy. Gradually add sugar.Beat until stiff. Fold in nuts. Spreadmeringue mixture onto preparedcookie sheet (according to desiredsize.) Bake for 1 hour or until done.Cool completely.
Icing11/2 cups California raisins21/2 cups hot water2 tbsp rum, or more2/3 cup sugar1/4 cup water12 egg yolks2 cups butter1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1. Soak California raisins in hot wateruntil plump. Drain then puree. Addrum.
2. In a saucepan, boil sugar and wateruntil thread stage.
3. Meanwhile, beat egg yolks for 2minutes then add syrup in a stream. Beat until light and cool.
4. In another bowl, cream butter untillight. Pour beaten yolk mixture in fourparts. Add vanilla extract and thenthe California raisin mixture. Use tofrost meringue layers.
Assembly1. Lay a meringue layer on a cake plate.
Spread buttercream on top. Repeatlayers. Cover sides with morebuttercream.
2. Garnish with toasted cashew.
18 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Regional Showcase
Dessert Trio
Chef/Proprietor
Delize33 Sunrise DriveCubao, Quezon City
PhilippinesGilda F. Sandique
菲律宾
Your Notes
Coconut Rice Balls With MuscovadoSugar500g sticky rice flourgranulated sugar, to taste200ml water or more2 ml ube (purple yam)2 ml corn or langka (jackfruit)2 ml vanilla extractAngel flake coconut, for coatingMuscovado sugar, to taste
1. In a bowl, mix together sticky rice flourand water to form a firm dough.Divide into 3 and knead in the ube,corn or langka and vanilla extract toeach portion.
2. Roll the dough into 1/2 inch balls. Drop into boiling water. Cook forabout 2 minutes or until the rice ballsfloat to the surface. Drain this coatwith angel flake coconut.
3. Top with muscovado sugar.
Coconut Lime Cake240g cake flour, sifted12g baking powder100g sugar2g salt120 ml vegetable oil180 ml water5 -10g lime rind, finely grated100g egg yolks280g egg whites2g cream of tartar200g sugar
1 Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease and linethe bottom of 3 – 9”x 1” layer pan. Setaside.
2. In a bowl, sift together flour, bakingpowder, sugar and salt. Make a well inthe center and add the oil, water, limerind and egg yolks. Mix until wellblended.
3. In another bowl, beat together eggwhites and cream of tartar until frothy.Gradually add the sugar and beat untilstiff but not dry.
1. Whisk sugar and yolks until pale.Scrape vanilla beans and mix in bowl.
2. In separate bowl, whisk cream untilstiff.
3. In separate bowl, whisk egg whites toform stiff peaks.
4. Add cherries, chocolate and pistachiosto bowl 1 and then fold in bowl 2. andlastly fold in bowl 3.
5. Pour mix into container so Cassata canbe served cut into wedges.*A small pudding basin is an idealcontainer for this job. Line container with plastic wrap so Cassata can beeasily removed from container for serving and also to prevent cherriestouching sides if a metal container is being used.
6. Freeze until required.
Your Notes
澳大利亚
29
Cherry Cassata
30 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Chef in Focus
By Campbell Ross WalkerPhotography by Dragon and Hungry Eyes
Asian Adaptability
Executive Pastry Chef Philippe Daue grew up in the European hospitalityindustry but this Belgian dessert pro employs situational adaptability
to best serve his guests at the Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok.
融入亚洲
Philippe Daue 是一位在欧洲餐饮业成长起来的西点执行主厨,然而,这位比利时甜点专家灵活应变,从而为曼谷香格里拉
酒店的客户提供更好的服务。
31
Collection of Verrines
32 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Chef in Focus
Executive Pastry Chef Philippe Daue. In fact, gastronomy andhospitality run through Philippe’s veins. He was born to bea chef.
Raised in Oostende, Belgium, a seaside town on the NorthSea, Philippe’s earliest memories center around the kitchen.Growing up, his parents ran the Hotel Oostende Compagnie,a boutique hotel at the Belgian Royal Family’s former summerresidence. Philippe’s father was a chef of considerable renownand oversaw the back of the house at the hotel’s 2 Michelinstar fine dining restaurant. With his mother in charge of hoteloperations, Philippe’s formative years where heavily influencedby the pursuit of quality and understated elegance. With suchsurroundings, no one was surprised when Philippe decided tofollow in the family business.
“When your father is a well known chef and both yourparents are involved with the hospitality industry, gastronomybecomes part of your everyday life. I was literally born intothe business. Kitchens were my playground and whisks andpots my toys. Now that I think of it, from both my father andmother’s side, I’m a fourth generation chef,” says Philippe.
After completing his secondary education, Philippe headedoff to hotel school with a concentration in cooking. Part ofthe curriculum afforded Philippe the opportunity toapprentice in some of Europe’s finest restaurants and hotels.It seemed the die was cast and Philippe would follow directlyin the footsteps of his father and those before him and pursuea career in hot cooking. Ironically, it was Philippe’s fatherwho saw a higher degree of concentration and attention todetail in the young chef and suggested Philippe try his handat pastry.
O ne often hears that pastry is a passion and that tobe a successful chef you’ve got to be ignited fromwithin by a love of food. That's certainly true for
实上,Philippe 和美食餐饮有着不解之缘 — 他生来就是一名大厨。在靠近北海的比利时海滨小镇奥斯坦德长大的 Philippe 关于童
年的最初记忆都是围绕着厨房展开的。那时,他的父母经营着奥斯坦德酒店公司**一家位于前比利时皇家避暑宅邸的小型高档酒店。Philippe 的父亲是一位赫赫有名的大厨,掌管着酒店内一家米其林二星级高端餐厅的厨房重地。负责酒店经营工作的母亲对于高质量和含蓄优雅的追求对处在性格形成期的 Philippe 产生了很大的影响。在这种环境下,Phillippe 毫无悬念地决定子承父业。
在完成中等教育课程学习后,Philippe 结束学业,来到酒店学校专攻烹饪。酒店学校的部分课程让 Philippe 有机会在欧洲最好的餐厅和酒店见习。至此,事情似乎已成定局 — Philippe 将会紧紧追随父亲及前辈的脚步,踏上菜肴烹饪的职业生涯。然而,颇具讽刺意味的是,Philippe 的父亲恰恰发现这位年轻的大厨对于细节的专著度和敏锐度更高,并由此建议他尝试西点制作这条道路。
Philippe 从此一头扎进了西点行业,激情满怀地开始学习,并期待接受创意挑战。法国境外唯一一家米其林三星级餐厅 — 布鲁塞尔 Villa Lorraine 成了Phillipe事业的起点。Phillipe 知道 VillaLorraine 忙碌而充满压力的后台烹饪环境正是他全新职业道路的绝佳训练场。“老实说,这段经历让我胆战心惊。作为一家欧洲顶
们都说西点制作是一个需要热情的行当,想要成为一个成功的大厨,你就得怀有一颗酷爱美食的赤诚之心。西点执行主厨 Philippe Daue 绝对是如此。事人
在 Villa Lorraine 工作了9个月后,Philippe得去服兵役了, 于是他离开餐厅参加基础训练。期间他曾在外国步兵团及跳伞营服役,由于精通射击术,他晋升为区域狙击手。这样,他的双手愈发稳健,眼力愈发超群,而这对于他之后在西点职业道路上的迅猛发展也是大有裨益的。
服完兵役之后, Philippe 回到了奥斯坦德酒店, 协助父母经营公司并主管西点制作。酒店那充满古风雅趣的环境显然极大地激发了Philippe的创作灵感。每一位客人都见证了他个人技术水平的一次又一次精进。晚上, 厨房变成了他的实验室 — 他会按照法国知名厨师所著的烹饪书籍进行烹饪, 然后增加原料, 使之成为他自己的作品。
“When I returned home one summer, my father and I werecooking and he started to ask me about my approach to food,likes and dislikes, and finally suggested maybe I could findexactly what I was looking for – in a career and creativelyspeaking – by trying pastry and desserts. I thought it was a goodsuggestion,” Philippe says with a laugh.
Philippe dove into pastry, excited to learn and lookingforward to the creative challenge. First stop was the RestaurantVilla Lorraine in Brussels, the first 3 Michelin star restaurantoutside of France. With such a hectic, pressurized kitchen,Philippe knew Villa Lorraine was the perfect training groundfor his newly chosen path. “I will admit it was intimidating.Being a pastry cook in one of Europe’s top restaurant does notallow for many mistakes or a moment’s rest, but in the end, itwas the ideal position for complete pastry immersion,” Philipperemembers fondly.
After 9 months at the Villa Lorraine, it came time for Philippe’snational service and he was off to basic training. Serving in botha foreign infantry regimen and later a parachute battalion, Philippeexcelled at marksmanship and was promoted to sectional sniper,leveraging his steady hand and critical eye that would prove sohelpful in his soon to flourish pastry profession.
Upon the completion of his national service, Philippereturned to the Hotel Oostende Compagnie to assist his parentsand take ownership of the pastry operations. The quaintenvironment proved stimulating to Philippe’s creativity and hewas able to hone his skills on a very personal level with eachguest. At night, the kitchen became his laboratory, as he followedthe cook books of the great French pastry chefs and expandedupon their recipes and made them his own.
“Back then, and as I still feel today, the real challenge inpastry resides in combining flavors that can in turn create anew sensory experience for the quest. Food should not beboring. Sure, if a rare and/or distinct ingredient is used at itstop condition, it would be a waste to try to modify it by addingother flavors. Pastry should be fun and playful, not ruled byrigid tradition,” say Philippe.
34 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Chef in Focus
It was Philippe’s unconventional approach to pastry’straditional that earned Philippe respect and a growing reputationamong culinary professionals in Belgium and across Europe.In 1996, one of his former colleagues from the Villa Lorrainealerted Philippe to a lucrative, albeit unusual opportunity,located in Jakarta, Indonesia. For Philippe, Asia was unchartedterritory and the position sounded like just want he was lookingfor after 6 years at the Hotel Oostende Compagnie.
Jakarta, circa 1996, was a thriving, vibrant city with abooming hospitality industry. The Sahid Jaya Hotel & Towerwas an older property now competing with the likes of theRegent, Shangri-La and Dharmawangsa. Sahid Jaya managementknew they needed a spark in their kitchen and the orders werereceived from high up to bring in a European pastry chef toadd quality and presentation to their many outlets.
“Jakarta was certainly different than Belgium. I came froma 13-room boutique hotel on the quiet, very cold coast, whereI was handling fine dining and the next day I was in charge ofthe pastry and baking operations at a 700-room monsterproperty with an enormous banquet capacity, 8 outlets(including a cake shop) and 42 person staff that I had to superviseand to train,” Philippe explains. “Humidity like I had neverexperienced, I was overwhelmed at first. Thankfully, themanagement team was very supportive and my time at theSahid Jaya was a wonderful experience that helped me learn alot about myself and my ability to manage a large group ofpeople and outlets.”
Philippe 以反传统的西点风格赢得了众人的敬仰,他在比利时和整个欧洲烹饪界中的名气越来越响。1996年,经过去在VillaLorraine 的同事提醒,他注意到印度尼西亚雅加达暗藏一处意义非凡的获利良机。对 Philippe 而言,亚洲是一片未知的疆域,而这份工作刚好是他在奥斯坦德酒店工作六年后一直在寻觅的。
Once his overseas career started, Philippe knew he foundthe lifestyle and adventure he yearned for. From Jakarta,Philippe moved to Dubai, China, Thailand, Malaysia, NewZealand and finally settling in at the Shangri-La in Bangkok.All the while, Philippe continued to learn, practice and develophis skills and approach to pastry. “What I love about what Ido is the precision involved. Pastry is all about consistency.Consistency with the products, consistency with the recipes,the temperatures, the timing, etc. It is a very organized,structured way of working, which I like,” say Philippe.
For Philippe, the Thai capital is an exception locationwith wonderful people and a real appreciation for pastry andquality. Sure, the traffic could be better but no place is perfect.“Bangkok is great”, Philippe offers while working along sidehis team in preparation for an evening wedding, “But,technically, the tropics make it a bit harder for pastry chefsand bakers because of humidity levels and ambienttemperatures. There are challenges culturally as well. The‘mai pehn rai’ attitude of the locals –no worries, relax- doestake some getting used to but after a while, you find it is alovely way of life.”
“Another challenge that we face almost on a daily basisis interactivity at the buffet counters. Following the globaltrend for staffed buffet experiences, we implemented thisserving methodology recently but in Thailand it is a challengebecause junior people (cooks) are not supposed to addresssenior people (guests) without being asked. We certainlydon’t ask members of our team to abandon their culturalidentity so we work around this the best we can — a Thaihybrid of interactive buffet that in the end works well,” offersPhilippe.
Philippe has learned to manage with pragmatism and isreadily aware that his Western training can sometimes clashwith local culture. Regardless, he loves the challenge and thechance to bring his passion to guests who may not have hadthe experience of a traditional Milanese panettone or a frozencaramel parfait on a tropical salsa.
在海外进行职业发展的 Philippe 知道自己已经找到了一种内心渴望的生活方式和冒险经历。此后 Philippe 离开雅加达来到迪拜,然后又去了中国、泰国、马来西亚、新西兰,最后终于在曼谷香格里拉酒店停下了脚步。他始终在不断学习,实践并拓展自己的西点制作风格及技艺。“这项工作最叫我中意的一点就是完成作品所需要的精确性。西点就是一种和谐一致的艺术。产品的和谐性,配料的和谐性,乃至温度、时间把握的和谐性等等。西点制作是一种步骤明确,组织严密的工作,我很喜欢。”Philippe坦言。
对 Philippe 而言,这座泰国首府城市很是与众不同 — 居民友善且对西点及其品质具备真正的鉴赏力。当然,当地的交通情况还有待改善,但既然“城无完城”,这点也无可厚非。“曼谷是一座伟大的城市”,Philippe 说这话的时候正与自己的团队并肩作战,为一场晚宴做前期准备,“但是,从技术层面上来说,热带环境增加了西点大厨和烘焙师的工作难度,因为这里的湿度和周边温度都很高。同时,文化背景也是一种挑战。我确实费了不少功夫才习惯当地人所崇尚的‘mai pehn rai’ — 也就是一种无忧无虑,完全放松的态度,但是不久之后,你就会发现这种生活方式其实非常可爱。”
With broader, gastronomic appreciation growing rapidly inAsian countries like Thailand, Philippe is savvy enough to makethe most of his European heritage and leverage the abundanceof exotic, local ingredients. With offering such as Star AniseChocolate Pearls, Pandan and Blackberry Financiers and SavoryCrab Cheesecake, Philippe walks a delicate line between his owntradition and accommodating the tastes of his guests.
“The locals may not be familiar with the different breads,cakes and pastry we can make, but they link “European” tocraftsmanship and quality of product. So, when it is time tothink up new creations, I consider greatly the surroundings andput myself in the shoes of our quests. I just write down whatevercomes to mind, never mind if it sounds or looks incoherent.Then later, I’ll see how it actually could be produced andpresented. The tasting stage follows and if disappointing, it’s inthe bin. If excellent or can be fine tuned, the creation ends upon the menu of one of our outlets,” says Philippe.
Philippe Daue is living a life of exploration and creation. Hisadaptive approach to pastry is well suited for Asia but don’t tryto pigeon hole him as a “fusion chef ”. He doesn’t create forcreations sake. Philippe’s own personal style comes from yearsof travel and situational necessity and he recommends that youngchefs don’t worry too much about trying to develop their uniquemethod from the outset but rather approach pastry with an openmind, accumulating knowledge and skills along the way.
“Follow your instincts and pursue your culinary passion. Inorder to be successful, you need to love what you do. And, if youlove pastry, you’ve chosen a noble craft. In the end, we’re all‘merchants of happiness’ in the good sense of the term,” saysPhilippe.
Philippe Daue的生活充满着探索和创新。他改良西点的手法非常适用于亚洲这个大环境,但您可千万不要将他简单地归入“融合大厨”之列。他可不是纯粹为了创新而创新。Philippe 的个人风格源自于他多年云游的经历及不可或缺的随机应变能力。他建议年轻的厨师们不要一开始就想法设法发展所谓的独特手法,而是应该以一颗开明之心进行西点创作并不断积累相关知识和技能。
TRADITIONAL MILANESE PANETTONE传统米兰意大利水果蛋糕Yield : 18 pcs of 500 grams each 共18份,每份500克
First Dough 面团一1150g natural starter 天然发酵剂575g sugar 糖920g water 水690g egg yolk 鸡蛋黄575g butter 黄油2300g bread flour 面包面粉23g malt 麦芽
1. Mix the sugar and the water to a cold syrup. Combine thissyrup with the flour and the starter. Knead to a dough for15 minutes.将糖和水混合后制成冷糖浆。将糖浆及面粉、发酵剂混合。将上述混合物揉搓15分钟左右,制成面团。
2. Incorporate the soft butter and then the egg yolks. Keepkneading until a smooth dough is reached. The kneading ofthe first dough should not take more than 25 minutes.在面团中混入软化黄油及鸡蛋黄。不断揉搓直至面团质地均匀细腻。面团一的揉搓时间不可超过25分钟。
3. Cover and leave to ferment for 10-12 hours at 26ºC, or untilthe dough is tripled in size.将面团裹起来,在26摄氏度的环境下发酵10至12分钟或待面团体积膨胀为原来的三倍即可。
1. Add the salt and the flavorings agents to the first doughand knead for about 20 minutes, until the dough is smoothand elastic. Add sugar mixed with half the egg yolks. Keepkneading until a smooth dough is reached.将盐和调味剂混入面团一中,揉搓20分钟,直至面团质地均匀富弹性。取一份鸡蛋黄,加入糖,混合后混入面团中。反复揉搓直至面团质地均匀。
2. Add 175g soft butter and the rest of the egg yolks. Kneadto a silky dough. Make sure to adjust the consistency byadding the water little by little.在面团中加入175克软化黄油及剩下的鸡蛋黄。不断揉搓制止面团表面光滑细致。注意可分批加入少量水调节粘稠度。
3. Pour 115g of melted butter in the mixture, then all the fruit.Knead for another 3-4 minutes at slow speed to evenlydistribute the fruit. Leave the dough to recover for a while.在混合物面团中加入115克融化黄油,然后加入所有的水果原料。再慢慢揉搓3至4分钟,使水果原料均匀分布于面团中。将面团放置一边备用。
4. Scale and divide. Ball up roughly and place on boards. Leaveto proof for about 40 minutes at 28ºC. Knock back andshape to tight balls. Carefully place in the panettone moulds.称量分割。将面团大致揉成球状并放置在加工台面上。在28摄氏度的环境中静置发酵约40分钟。将面球重新加工并紧紧捏成球形。小心仔细地将其放入水果蛋糕模具中。
5. Place in the proofer at 30ºC and 80% RH for about 6-7hours or until the dough reaches the rim of the mould.Lightly cut crosswise with a sharp knife and place a knobof butter on the center of the cuts. Bake 30 minutes in apre-steamed oven at 180ºC (for 500 gr dough) with closedvalve.把模具放入发酵器中, 将温度设定在30摄氏度, 相对湿度为80%,待其发酵6至7小时直至面团膨胀至模具边缘即可取出。用锋利的小刀在面团表面划出十字形刀口并将一小团黄油放在切口的中心位置。将烤炉预热至180摄氏度,放入模具,关闭阀门,烘焙约30分钟(面团重量为500克)。
6. Immediately after baking, turn upside down and stand for10 hours to avoid the sides collapsing. Wrap in air-tightbags, seal and store in a dark and fresh place.烘烤完毕后立刻将模具倒置并放置10个小时以防止边缘部分坍塌。将成品放入密闭包装,密封并保存于阴暗通风处。
SAVORY CRAB CHEESECAKE风味蟹乳酪蛋糕Yield : 30 small muffin moulds 小型松饼状30份
1. For the crumb base, mix the butter with the bread crumbsand arrange a thin layer on the bottom of each mould. Bakefor 10 minutes in an oven at 170ºC.制作面包脆皮底料。将黄油及面包脆皮混合后薄薄地铺在模具的底部。放入170摄氏度的烤炉烘烤10分钟。
2. For the filling: beat the cream cheese and the eggs in a mixeruntil fluffy. Add the lemon juice, the onion, a little Tabasco,pepper and salt and finally the crab meat.制作馅料:将奶油乳酪及鸡蛋放入搅拌机中混合搅打直至蓬松状。加入柠檬汁,洋葱,少量塔巴斯哥辣酱油、黑胡椒和盐,最后放入蟹肉。
3. Divide the mixture in the moulds prepared with crumbs.Place in an oven at 160ºC and bake until done. Allow to coolcompletely, then serve, topped with a dot of sour cream anddecorated with fish egg, chives, sesame seeds and lemon zests.将混合物均匀倒入铺有面包脆皮的模具。将模具放入160摄氏度的烤炉中烤熟。取出后待其完全冷却,装盘,在蛋糕上涂上一点酸奶油并用鱼子、香葱、芝麻及柠檬皮作点缀即可。
Before you begin:
1. Use thick baking paper(or triple the parchmentpaper) and cut to thecorrect shape aroundthe inside of the cakepan and place it in.Make sure that the paper is twice as high as the pan.
2. Sponge. Make the vanilla génoise one day before andkeep it airtight in the freezer. Take it out of the freezerabout 1 hour before use. Then, slice the génoise at 1/2”thick and place the sponge in a lined pan.
3. Preheat the oven to 335˚F/170˚C.
4. Mix and sift flour and cornstarch once and set asidein a bowl.
5. Boil enough water to use for baking at Step 7 (amountof water will vary depending on the size of the bakingpan used).
42 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Asian Fusion
South Koreans are consuming greater quantities of cheese as foods likepizza, cheeseburgers and sandwiches become more popular among theyounger generation.
Over the past 5 years, imports of cheese have grown 68% in Koreaand this trend is expected to continue for the foreseeable future. Thus,local pastry chefs and bakers have to adapt to this growing demand andoffer a wider variety of cheese products.
Publisher’s Note:Successful entrepreneur, award winning author,instructor, international representative and currentPresident of the Korean Bakers Association, ChefKim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazingvisionary in the pastry and baking fusionmovement, Chef Kim marries his classicalEuropean training with his appreciation for Asianingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy ofDream Character, Inc.
1. Filling. Add cheese, unsalted butter, heavy cream, and milk in apot and boil at high heat. Keep whisking to melt and mix all theingredients together.
2. Turn the heat down to medium. Add sifted flour and cornstarchand keep whisking.
3. The picture demonstrates how the batter changes its thickness asyou cook over the heat. When the batter becomes thick and creamy,transfer it to a bowl.
4. Add half of the whisked egg yolks at a time and keep whisking.Add vanilla extract and mix in.
5. In a separate bowl, make a meringue using the egg whites andsugar. This soufflé needs a stiff meringue. Add 1/4 of the meringueto the batter first and mix in using a rubber spatula. Then, addthe rest of the meringue half at a time and mix.
6. Place the prepared cake pan inside the large baking pan. Pour thebatter into the cake pan (fill to the top of the pan, not the top ofthe baking paper).
7. Bake. Pour boiling water around the cake pan up to about1/2” high and put in the oven right away. Bake at335˚F/170˚C for 90 minutes.
8. After the initial baking time is finished, increase the oventemperature to 390˚F/200˚C and bake an additional 3-4minutes to get the light brown color on top of the soufflé.Check the oven a few times after you increase the oventemperature to see the color because the time may vary.Remove the cake pan from the water but leave the souffléin the cake pan while cooling on a cooling rack. After itcools down completely, remove the soufflé from the cakepan and place it on a plate. Brush the nappage over thetop, and it is ready to be served!
7. 8.
44 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
6.
*Recipe from A Collection of Fine Baking (ISBN: 0976554305) by Young MoKim Winner of Gourmand Intl. Cookbook Award 2005 Best Dessert Book inthe World.
From Tokyo to Sydney, Mumbai to Manila,Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific has you covered.
Part 1: Recipe and Stencils
46 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
PastillageSugar Arts
Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert inmodern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitorand instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of PastryArts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)
Sugar Recipe 糖配料16 g leaf gelatin 明胶页132 g water 水150 g corn starch 玉米淀粉850 g powdered sugar 糖霜
Pastillage, pronounced PAHS-tee-AHJ, is a highly versatilesugar-based dough, excellent for decorating and creatingshowpiece work.
The formula below is best to mix by hand. If you usea machine, more air will be incorporated into the pastillagewhich makes it difficult to cut out small, intricate pieces.It is much easier to work with dough that is tight, has littleair and is very fresh. The longer it sits the tougher andmore difficult it becomes. This recipe is elastic and greatfor bending thin smooth pieces.
1. Scale out 16g of gold leaf gelatin using a digital scale.
2. Cut the gelatin with scissors into small pieces over a liquidmeasuring pitcher.
Pastillage (糖黏土),读作 Pahs-tee-AHJ,是一种多用途
的加糖面团,为装饰西点或制作美食作品之必备良品。
以下配方最好能以手工方式混和加工。如选用机器进行
加工,则会在糖黏土中混入较多空气,成品会因此难以切
割成精细复杂的形状。质地紧实,几乎不含气泡的新鲜糖
黏土加工起来更为方便。其放置的时间越长,则越硬,加
工起来也越困难。利用以下的食谱您可以制成富有弹性的
糖黏土,也可方便地将其弯折成均匀细块。
1. 用电子秤称量出16克金色明胶页。2. 用剪刀将明胶页剪成小片,放入液体量杯中。
47
3. Pour 132g of cold water over the leafgelatin and allow to bloom for fiveminutes.
4. In a stainless steel bowl, scale out 150gof corn starch and 850g of powderedsugar.
5. Pour the cornstarch and powdered sugarinto a fine metal sieve. Sift this mixtureover a piece of parchment paper toremove any possible lumps.
6. Place the bloomed gelatin into themicrowave to melt the gelatin completely.
7. Create a well in the center of thepowdered sugar and corn starch mixturewith a spoon and pour the melted gelatininto the well.
8. Mix just to combine the ingredients.
9. Pour the flaky mixture onto a cleanmarble surface. The dough will be verysticky to start. Use a metal bench scraperto gather the ingredients together andform a dough.
3. 4.
6. 7.
5.
8.
9.
3. 将132克冷水倒入盛有明胶页的量杯,静置五分钟待其发开。
4. 取一不锈钢碗,量取150克玉米淀粉及850克糖霜。
5. 将玉米淀粉及糖霜倒入金属细筛中。取一张烘焙羊皮纸垫在筛子下方,将混和物筛匀,除去结块物。
6. 将发开的明胶页放入微波炉中加热,使明胶完全熔化。
7. 用调羹在玉米淀粉和糖霜混和物的中心位置挖出一个凹洞并将熔化的明胶倒入洞中。
8. 将原料混和均匀。
9. 将片状混和物倒在干净的大理石表面。一开始面团较为粘稠。用台式刮刀将混和物聚拢并制成团状。
48 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Sugar Arts
10. Knead the dough into a ball. Cover the pastillage tightly withplastic to prevent the surface from drying. Work with smallamounts of dough as you go.
11. Use corn starch instead of powdered sugar to roll out pastillage. Corn starch will keep the surface smoother. Make a beggarspurse out of cloth and fill it with corn starch. This will allowyou to dust the surface more easily and effectively. Roll outsmall pieces to ensure the dough doesn’t dry out. Move thedough around while rolling so the pastillage doesn’t stick to therolling pin or table. After rolling out the pastillage, smooth outthe surface with the palm of your hand.
12. Prepare stencil cut outs with sturdy materials like card stock orheavy duty plastic. Shapes can vary.
13. Place stencil cut outs onto the pastillage. Hold the stencil firmlydown and begin cutting the shapes using an x-acto blade.
14. Carefully remove each cut out piece of pastillage from the table.
15. Using a porous surface like Styrofoam will allow the pastillageto dry faster because air is trapped between the contact surfaces.Wooden boards are also very good for drying pastillage becausethey are also porous and allow the humidity to escape.
10. 11.
13. 14.
12.
15.10. 将面团捏成球状。在做好的糖黏土表面紧紧地裹上一层
塑料膜防止表面收干。每次制作的面团量少为宜。
11. 不选用糖霜,而是在糖黏土表面撒上玉米淀粉并将其碾
平。玉米淀粉可以保持面团表面平整光滑。取一块布,
制成乞丐钱袋状的小口袋并装满玉米淀粉,这样就可以
方便快速地将玉米淀粉洒在表面了。每次只将小块糖黏
土碾平以防止整个面团干裂。碾平时必须不断翻动以防
止其粘连于加工台或擀面杖表面。将糖黏土擀平成型
后,用手掌将其表面揉压平整。
12. 用厚卡纸或者重型塑料等结实材料制成镂花型板。形状
可按需调整。
13. 将镂花型板放在糖黏土上。将型板牢牢固定在糖黏土表
面并用X-ACTO修补刀片将糖黏土切割成型。
14. 小心地从加工台上移去切下的糖黏土块。
15. 利用如苯乙烯泡棉等材料制成的多孔透气表面可使糖黏
土更快地收干,因为糖黏土和多空表面的接触面之间可
封存部分空气。木制面板对于收干糖黏土也非常有效,
因为木制面板表面也富含小孔,可散去湿气。
49
16. 17. 18.
16. If a texture is desired, roll out the pastillage on a texturedsurface like plexi-glass, wall paper, silicon mats or texturedrolling pins. Here, I am using plexi-glass.
17. Free hand cutting is an option for cutting pastillage. Use asharp chef ’s knife to cut out shapes like triangles or squares.
18. If you want to soften the edges of a cut out, you can use around cutter to cut out portions from the sides of this triangle.
19. Roll out a piece of pastillage into a log. Use a round cakeboard to roll a smooth tube-like rod. It works best if thereis no cornstarch is on the table.
Next issue Part II… more shapes and assembly!
19. 20.
21.
20. Shape the rods into swirls and curls onto Styrofoam andallow drying.
21. Use a round cutter as a guide to form round curls. Allowthe curls and rods to dry over night for best results.
Anchor Whipping Cream.Our natural pure dairy taste will ensure your customers keep coming back.
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Because at Fonterra we believe dairy is the key to driving bakery growth.
Anchor Whipping Cream.Our natural pure dairy taste will ensure your customers keep coming back.
Is your thinking fresh?
The lush green New Zealand environment ensures Anchor whipping cream consistently performs and has all the benefi ts of a pure, natural dairy taste that your customers will love.
Because at Fonterra we believe dairy is the key to driving bakery growth.
52 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Chocolate Love
Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.
Organization and moving quicklyyields dramatic results
1. Lightly drizzle a small quantity of red-colored cocoa butteronto the surface of the pure white chocolate.在纯白巧克力表面轻轻淋上少量的枣红色可可脂。
2. Gently swirl with rubber spatula.用橡胶抹刀轻轻旋开。
迅速造型并脱模,成品效果绝佳
53
4.
4.
3. Place marble slab in freezer for one hour.Pour small quantity onto frozen marble slab.
将大理石板放入冷冻室冷藏约一小时。
在冰冻后的大理石板上倒上少量原料。
4. Quickly spread with offset spatula into a thin rectangular-shaped layer.
迅速用煎铲将原料刮成长方形薄层。
5. Use knife to cut into a rectangular band.
用刀将原料切成长条状长方形块。
6. Remove excess chocolate and discard.
除去多余的巧克力。
7. Prepare raspberry mousse timbale.
准备好一份覆盆子慕丝香烤三味。
8. Quickly remove rectangular chocolate from marble slaband quickly form into a cylinder around mousse timbale.
迅速将长方形巧克力从大理石块表面取下并立刻放入装有慕
丝香烤三味的柱形容器。
9. Scrunch top. Garnish as desired.
敲碎表面。按个人喜好进行装饰即可。
3. 5.
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AS Gelato tra.indd 1AS Gelato tra.indd 1 4-09-2007 10:53:054-09-2007 10:53:05
Wild Sweets
Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information, visit www.dcduby.com
58 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
FLOATING FRUIT SOUP & MALTO CRUNCH漂浮水果汤配麦芽糖脆片
Malto Crunch 麦芽糖脆片
120 g Maltodextrin* 麦芽糖糊精30 g Icing sugar 糖霜60 g Pistachio, roasted 香烤开心果3 Egg Whites 鸡蛋量的蛋白45 g Vanilla Oil 香草油
*This recipe is tested with MALTO Elements by DC DUBY,other maltodextrin may be substituted but results may differ.* 以上菜谱选用的是DC DUBY 品牌的 MALTO Elements产品,您也可选用其他品牌的麦芽糖糊精,但成品品质可能有所差异。
Various compounds called Gums have recently become increasingly popularin modern cuisine. Gums are derived from plants and are generally complexcarbohydrates made of different sugar molecules. They are used as thickeners,emulsifiers and sometime as gelling agents. In the health food industry,they are used as a fat substitute by providing the “mouth feel” of fat, butwithout the calories.
Typically sauces and cream type preparations are thickened withcornstarch or flour through a process called gelatinization whereby thestarch and liquid are heated to the boiling point and cooked for a certainamount of time in order for the starch granules to swell and thicken theliquid. The disadvantage of this process is that typically larger amount ofthickener must be added, which affects the final taste of the product. Theliquid must also be boiled which increases the loss of volatile aromas.Conversely, unlike starches minute amounts of gums are required due totheir very high viscosity / thickening properties resulting in a ‘clean’preparation with its original distinct flavours left unaltered by the flavour,texture and mouth feel of added starch.
In a food processor, combine the MALTO, icing sugar, pistachioand blend until the pistachios are finely ground. Transfer mixtureinto a bowl, add remaining ingredients and mix until well combinedwith a spatula. Transfer mixture back into the food processor andmix briefly until the mixture is smooth and homogenous. Spreadthe mixture on a silicon mat [for best results use a template], andbake in a microwave oven at the lowest heat setting forapproximately 3 to 5 minutes or until crisp.
500 mL Apple or other clear fruit juice 苹果汁或其他透明果汁1.25 mL Xanthan* 黄原胶15 mL Honey or to taste 蜂蜜 (或按个人口味适量选用)Zest of 1 lemon 取一只柠檬的表皮备用Lemon Verbena, 2-3 leaves 柠檬马鞭草Amaretto, to taste 爱莫莱托利口酒适量
*This recipe is tested with XAGUM Elements by DC DUBY,other xanthan may be substituted but results may differ.*以上菜谱选用的是 DC DUBY 品牌的 XAGUM Elements 产品,
您也可选用其他品牌的黄原胶,但成品品质可能有所差异。
Place the apple juice in a tall and narrow container. Add theXAGUM and blend with an immersion blender until allcombined. Add the remaining ingredients and let the mixturesit and infuse in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or untilit becomes ‘clear’ again. Strain and discard the solids. Whenready to serve, pour some fruit ‘soup’ in a vessel of yourchoice and add pieces of fresh fruits so that they remain in‘suspension’. Serve at once with a few pieces of Malto Crunch.
After three days of fierce competition, Naomi Mizuno of Japan stoodalone as the 2007 champion of the World Chocolate Masters.
By S1GPhotos courtesy of WCM
Naomi Mizuno
经过三天的激烈竞争,来自日本的水野直己脱颖而出,摘得2007世界巧克力大师赛冠军头衔。
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Naomi Mizuno’s award winningchocolate showpiece ‘Tengu’
66 Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific
Competition
world’s greatest chocolate craftsmen took part in theinternational final, which had the theme of “National Mythsand Legends”.
The road to victory was long, with the competitors firsthaving to win their national selection heats earlier in the yearto gain a place in the grand final.
Throughout the competition the contestants thoroughlydemonstrated the mastery of their art in front of a jury ofexperts headed by Francisco Torreblanca, the master Spanishchocolatier. The tension increased throughout the three daysof the competition as spectators packed the venue and watched,awestruck, from the public galleries at the amazing technicalskills and dexterity of the chefs who created delicious worksof art.
“The World Chocolate Masters is a top level competitionfor chocolate craftsmen from all over the world. The purposeis to offer these people a forum to showcase their skills withchocolate. Creativity with chocolate is key! In the entirecompetition, original approaches in the recipes and aspects ofall creations were highly appreciated by the jury,” offered PhilippeJanvier, Vice President Sales & Marketing Gourmet DivisionBarry Callebaut Europe.
Naomi Mizuno was declared the Winner of the WorldChocolate Masters 2007, with Yvonnick Le Maux (France) andCarmelo Sciampagna (Italy) taking second and third place.Winners shared a prize package of 100,000 Euros and ChefNaomi was presented a trophy specially created by leading DutchDesigner Rob Verhoeven. Furthermore, Naomi Mizuno receivedspecial awards for his chocolate pastry and for his creativechocolate showpiece. Yvonnick Le Maux was awarded for hispralines and Carmelo Sciampagna received an award for hisgastronomic chocolate dessert.
T he second World Chocolate Masters took place atthe first Salon du Chocolat Professionnel held inParis from October 20 – 22, 2007. Twenty of the
From left: Paul Halliwell, Paco Torreblanca, Pol Deschepper, Onno Bleeker, Camelo Sciampagna,Naomi Mizuno, Yvonnick Le Maux, Philippe Janvier, Patrick De Maeseneire, Beau Netzer and Eric Martinet
Le ResultsPrize
WorldChocolateMaster
2nd Place
3rd Place
ChocolatePastryAward
ChocolateShowpieceAward
PralinesAward
ChocolateDessertAward
Contestant
Naomi Mizuno
Country
Japan
Yvonnick LeMaux
France
CarmeloSciampagna
Italy
Naomi Mizuno Japan
Yvonnick LeMaux
France
CarmeloSciampagna
Italy
Naomi Mizuno Japan
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Without a doubt, the most interesting creation of the wholecompetition was Naomi’s chocolate showpiece entitled “Tengu”.In Japan, Tengu are a class of supernatural creatures found infolklore, theater, and literature. They are one of the best knownyokai (monster-spirits) and are sometimes worshipped as spiritsor gods. Although they take their name from a dog-like demon,the Tengu were originally thought to take the forms of birds ofprey, and they are traditionally depicted with both human andavian characteristics. The earliest Tengu were pictured with beaks,but this feature has often been humanized as an unnaturally longnose, which today is practically the Tengu's defining characteristicin the popular imagination.
As Naomi Mizuno raised his trophy and held his check, itwas readily apparent the mild mannered chef was the crowdfavorite and even his competitors were happy for him. Here isan interview with Chef Naomi shortly after he arrived back inJapan to a hero’s welcome:
P&B NA: First off, congratulations on being crowned WorldChocolate Master 2007. How does it feel?NM: Incredible. From the winning moment on the podium andonce again when I arrived back to my hometown, it is still hardto believe especially when I see all the happy faces of mysupporters, colleagues and friends.
P&B NA: Tell us about your World Chocolate Master journey.NM: The competitors were an amazing array of internationaltalent that forced me to be at my best. From the beginning, Ifollowed my plan. What helped a lot was the overallprofessionalism of the WCM organization that made thecompetition extremely comfortable and stress free. This allowedme to concentrate and really enjoy the whole experience.
评审会宣布水野直己为2007年度世界巧克力大师赛的冠军,而亚军和季军则分别由来自法国的Yvonnick Le Maux 及来自意大利的 Carmelo Scriampagna 夺得。三位获奖者共享高达100,000欧元的奖金,大赛举办方同时授予水野大厨一尊由荷兰一流设计师 Rob Verhoeven 特别创作的奖杯。除此之外,水野直己还凭借自己的巧克力西点及创意巧克力展示作品荣获特别大奖。而Yvonnick Le Maux 则凭借杏仁糖勇获殊荣,Carmelo Sciampagna的美食巧克力甜点也为他赢得了一个奖项。
P&B NA: Were there any moments of incredible pressure?NM: Yes! Especially when I spoke to my wife just before the startof the competition and she reminded me that I was representingJapan. Her last words were “don’t lose”.
P&B NA: Tell us about your preparation for the event.NM: During practice, I made the showpiece 10 times. Each time,the showpiece got bigger and more sophisticated. In the past, I’veseen a tendency for larger, more attention grabbing showpieces butat the last moment, I followed the advice of our jury representativeMr. Oyama and my good friend Kouichi Izumi who took 3rd placein the 2005 WCM. They recommended that I focus on making theshowpiece smaller and more delicate, concentrating on the beautyand minimizing the chance of a collapse.
For the pralines and dessert, I tried to score evenly by makinghigh-quality finished forms. I didn’t use Japanese specificingredients but rather ingredients easily obtained anywhere inthe world to put forth a more international taste profile.
P&B NA: What has been the reaction to your success backhome in Japan?NM: All my family, friends and professional colleagues are sohappy for me. An added benefit is that my students suddenlychanged their attitudes and became more attentive to my lessons.
P&B NA: So where next? What are goals in 2008?NM: I am always learning and looking to play my part inincreasing the level of Japanese chocolatiers and increase thepositioning of chocolate in the world food market.
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