-
EDITORI10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax
+390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com -
[email protected]
P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E
CHIRIOTTIissue fourteen-2009
CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY RECIPESFOR ANY SEASON
SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH
COFFEE AND CRUNCHY SWEETS
TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS
-
Almonds are in .novative
Bring a little crunch, a touch of class and a ton of creativity
to every creation. Discover your inspiration in almonds.
The Almond Board of California is a partner of the World Pastry
Cup 2009.
-
NEWS
Editor-in-chief Livia Chiriotti Senior Editor Emilia
CoccoloChiriotti News editors Cristina Quaglia, Milena Novarinoand
Monica Onnis Assistant editor Chiara CombaTranslations Alexander
Martin Marketing editorGiuseppe Chiriotti Advertising director
Luigi Voglino [email protected] Art director Studio
Grafico Impagina
Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition10064 Pinerolo
(Torino) - viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax
+39 0121 794480 [email protected]
Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition is
happilypublished in Italy by Chiriotti Editori and printed by
Tipografia Giuseppini. Copyright 2008 by Chiriotti Editori. All
rights reserved. No part of thismagazine may be reproduced without
prior written permissionfrom the publishing house.Supplement of
PasticceriaInternazionale n. 216 January 2009.
STAFF
Ready for the Coupe du Monde
de la Ptisserie 2009
A tribute to grand tradition
Two elegant shops in Italy
The strength, the technique,the accuracy
A fully integrated and traceable production chain
Dedicated to the CostieraAmalfitana
State-of-the-art machines
Ice in Vibo Valentia
A product of vegetable origin
Gelato in Tavola at Sigep
The International PtisserieGrand Prix 2009
Chocolate bento
High quality production
Bronze for the Culinary
Team Palermo
Salon du Chocolat
Professionnel in Paris
The right preservation
Biagios Awards
Identit Golose in Milan
Certified quality from Naples
Turin's Royal kitchens reopened
Sistema Gelato Italiano
A single origin chocolate
A complete range for baking and freezing
Introducing healthy eating habits
Base products for gelato
On our cover, Spiral of...(on page 30).
EDITORI10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax
+390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com -
[email protected]
P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E
CHIRIOTTIissue fourteen-2009
CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY RECIPESFOR ANY SEASON
SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH
COFFEE AND CRUNCHY SWEETS
TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS
P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E
issue thirteen-2008
CHIRIOTTI
TUTTO GELATO!
GELATO WORLD CUPANOTHER VICTORY FOR ITALY
SWEET SICILY
CHOCOLATE HARMONIES
THE CHEF'S MAGIC
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax
+390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com -
[email protected]
n 216 Anno XXX11
Post
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9
www.pasticceriainternazionale.it
EDITORICHIRIOTTI
gennaio 2009
CIOCCOLATERIA CONFETTERIA GELATERIA GASTRONOMIA
CONFEZIONAMENTO
ENG
LISH
EDITI
ON
WEB
SITE
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AERIAL EASTER 26
8
16
44
MOGADOR
VEGETABLE chocolate bonbons
12VARIATIONSON A THEME
FIVE GENERATIONS of the Besuschio name
TRISCRUNCHY SWEETS
24 THE ITALIAN RECIPESat the WPTC 2008 29
SICILIAN DELIGHTS
38
40RECIPES
FROM THE ICIF
22
THE CHEF'S MAGIC
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2www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
In Italy, Easter is a spring festival, eagerly awaited by
adultsand children alike. Chocolate eggs containing small
giftsallude to the ancient meaning of egg as a symbolic imageof
regeneration. Every year pastry chefs work flat out tomeet the
demand for chocolate eggs, colomba, and otherEaster
specialties.Here eggs are pictured against a blue sky, thus
recal-ling the idea of aerial lightness and spring atmo-spheres.
But they also hint at ecology and at theconcept of environmental
sustaina-bility (the ability of an ecosystem tomaintain ecological
processes, func-tions, biodiversity and productivity intothe
future). These themes are and willbe fully developed in
PasticceriaInternazionale in Italian, from thepoint of view of
sustainable pro-duction applied to confectioneryart. Shown here are
some ima-ges of Easter expressedthrough the ability of fi-ve
well-known Italianpastry chefs.
Aerial Easter
GrazianoGIOVANNINI
-
Luca MANNORI
FrancoRIZZATI
StefanoLAGHI
FabrizioCAMPLONE
3
in sculpted ice; a chocolate entremets with arti-stic piece in
sugar.Congratulations to MOF Gabriel Paillasson,the founder of the
international event, whocelebrates the 20th anniversary of the
bien-nal competition (www.cmpatisserie.com).
The Italian team participating in the 20th Coupe duMonde de la
Ptisserie in Lyons: from left, Alessan-dro Dalmasso, Domenico Longo
and Giancarlo Corti-novis.
Ready for the Coupe du Monde de la Ptisserie 2009
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNE
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEW
The 2009 edition of the Coupe du Monde dela Ptisserie is held
during the 14th edition ofSIRHA, Salon International de la
Restaurationde lHtellerie et de lAlimentation in Lyon(France), from
24 to 28 January 2009.Holland, Brazil, USA, China, Finland,
France,Spain, Poland, Morocco, Singapore, and Tunisiacompete on day
one; South Korea, Belgium,Japan, Malaysia, Lebanon, Russia,
Hungary,Taiwan, Argentina, Mexico, and Italy on daytwo. Yuko
Ichikawa is the designated presidentof the international jury, with
Pierre Herm ashonorary president.The Italian team includes
AlessandroDalmasso, Domenico Longo and GiancarloCortinovis; Luigi
Biasetto stands in as presi-dent, with the Italian Club of the
Coupe duMonde.The regulations state that each team must pre-sent a
plated dessert made with national ingre-dients backed by artistic
presentation in choco-late; a fruit gelato entremets with artistic
work
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4www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS
As a partner of the 2009 World Pastry Cup, the Almond Board
ofCalifornia pays tribute to the grand tradition of classic
almondpastry arts still used today to create tomorrows on-trend
innova-tions in Lyon, France. It is the first year almonds are
featured inthe competition: two of the four competition categories
the fro-zen fruit dessert and the plated chocolate dessert require
theuse of California almonds.In celebrating the 20th anniversary of
this world-class competi-tion, thirty of the most acclaimed
ptisiers in the world, all pre-vious winners of the competition,
gathered to create a recipe thatrepresents the spirit of the
contest and includes the latest trends(www.almondsarein.com).
A tribute to grand tradition
La Buvette in Sora, near Frosinone, is apastry shop and caf of
110 sq meters de-signed by Costa Group. The confectioneryarea is
furnished with a counter made ofcement and iroko wood, with a
glassshowcase for chocolate bonbons. A bigwhite chandelier
dominates this area andthe back counter made of grey MD isequipped
with lighted shelves. A specialpeninsula is dedicated to gelato.The
black and white graphics on the wallsdraw on the image of an old
village, the pictures having been taken from a book written by the
owne-r's father about Sora village. The caf area is furnished with
a big black chandelier and a modern counter with aluminium
panels,lighted from the bottom. It is divided into two parts, one
with a white Corian top and the other with aglass window. The
refreshing area is cosy the tables have white glass tops, the
chairs and sofas arewhite, light lilac and beige. The dehor is
coloured, with white chairs and confortable sofas, surroundedby
pink floral graphics.Maccallis gelato and confectionery shop in
Covo, near Bergamo, modernized his look and expandedhis laboratory.
Now the shop has 240 seats and includes 6 rooms, each of them
differently designedand furnished by Costa Group. The entrance has
a wood ceiling with beams, a wooden floor, and auto-matic doors. It
leads to the gelato zone with a choice of 36 flavours. The gelato
counter is connectedto the bar counter, which has a frontal with
brick in melted aluminium; the top counter in white sha-ped Corian
has stools in crumpled sheet aluminium. In the wide
cyclamen-coloured room there are white sofas and chandeliers; the
Indian room is furnis-
hed with a big table in Indianteak, a red chandelier
withcrystals and a round table, sur-rounded by dark brown
chairsdecorated with brilliant sto-nes; the wall is covered
withgold leaf. In the tea room the-re are white chairs, old
photo-graphs and a wall made up ofwashers of wood trunks.
Thisspacious shop has also a de-hor, enriched with graphics onthe
walls(www.costagroup.net).
Eurovo has built an organisationthat covers all phases of a
fully in-tegrated and traceable productionchain: from hen husbandry
tochicks, from the direct production offeed to the monitoring of
the finis-hed product. This is done with thesupport of high-tech
equipment, ensuring on-going qualityand very high flexibility.Feed
is produced directly by the feed plants of the Eurovosupply chain
and is entirely aimed at the nutrition of layinghens bred in
different systems (in a cage, on the ground, in theopen air and in
organic agriculture breeding establishments),according to the
market's various demands, to guarantee adaily supply of over
8,000,000 eggs.Quality control meets ISO 9001:2000 and HACCP
hygienic-sa-nitary standards; the Kat, BRC, Kosher, Kashrut and
Halal certi-ficate for the production of organic agriculture.The
large scale production capacity and the widespread distri-bution
network ensure that orders of everguaranteed, ever-fresh products
are filled within 24 hours. The variety of pro-ducts, fresh eggs
and egg products (refrigerated pasteurized,deep frozen pasteurized,
in powder, criofrozen and liotis) im-plies constant, daily
endeavour by the whole production chain. Eurovo Service's supply
range has broadened with the addi-tion of Whole Egg, Egg Yolk and
Egg White, obtainedthrough organic agriculture
(www.eurovo.com).
A fully integrated and traceable production chainGelateria
Maccalli
La Buvette.
Thanks to the extensive expertise of the companys founders,
Rollmatic capitalized over 40years of experience in the
confectionery and bakery sectors.Commitment to research and
innovation, use of state-of-the-art machinery, top
processingtechniques, and use of the best components available on
the market, have enabled the com-pany to be known worldwide thanks
to the high-quality and reliability of its machinery, whichare
ranked medium-high.The engineering stage relies on advanced 3D
design to simulate the process of machines underdevelopment, thus
providing a solution to possible criticality right from the start
of the project.Technology, in-depth knowledge of the process and
respect of craftsmanship combine to makeRollmatic machines
technologically advanced and respectful of tradition.The idea of
the strength of a bull inspires the line of Bull planetary mixes,
with their smoothand elegant design. The extensive range of models
ranges from capacities varying from 10 to160 litres, and the tank
can be resized in models up to 60 litres. The line of Roll sheeters
inclu-des more than 20 models, starting from the simplest right to
the most sophisticated and pro-grammable machines. The range of
Samurai cutters is named after the historical Japanesewarriors and
their famous Katana, which embodies power and cutting accuracy. The
Samuraicutters are built in full accordance with the European
safety norms (www.rollmatic.com).
The strength, the technique,the accuracy
Two elegant shops in Italy
-
i n t ro d u ces its Flex i p a n N ew Shapes
Demarle S.A.S . Parc dactivits des Ansereuilles . 59136 WAVRIN .
France . Tel: +33 (0)3 20 58 83 84 . Fax: +33 (0)3 20 58 74
70E-mail : [email protected] - Website: www.demarle.com
Oblong Cake120 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm
Volume 100 ml
Ingot with a cavity120 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm
Volume 90 ml
Half-Cylinder85 x 17 mm Depth 15 mm
Volume 20 ml
Mini-quenelle 42 x 22 mm Prof. 17 mmRef. FP 1150
Medium Quenelle Ref. FP 1152 GN1/1
67 x 36 mm Prof. 27 mm
QuenelleRef. FP 1154 GN1/1
84 x 44 mm Prof. 35 mm
Savarin Saphir 70 x 70 mm Depth 32 mm
Volume 80 ml
Mini-drop52 x 32 mm Depth 20 mmVolume 18 ml
Cutter forMini-Drop shapesRef. DEC 1144
The cutter for Saphir shape Ref. DEC 1124 is available
Small Ingot with a cavity100 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm
Volume 70 ml
An Exoglass cutter Ref. MMA 150214 has been developped to cut
your pastry dough to fit perfectly the SSpoon shape Ref. SSF
1127.
Silform Spoon shape
Mini Hearts41 x 38 mm Depth 16 mm
Volume 15 ml
The Silform for Bread SSF 4394 is part of the Silform range
especiallydevelopped for bread loaves for catering.The Silform Mini
Charlotte ref. SF 1071 is part of the Silform
tartlets range. They will allow you to produce perfect tartlets
bases.
90 x 28 mm Depth 12 mm-600 x 400 mm Ref. SSF 112736 indents-400
x 300 mm Ref. SSF 212718 indents
Silform Range
Ref. FP 1144
Ref. FP 1136
The cutter for Ingot shape Ref. DEC 1148 is available
Cutter forMini-HeartshapesRef. DEC 1136
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6www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Chocolate Sponge
tpt g 300invert sugar g 10
fresh eggs g 100+100 0-B flour g 10
potato starch g 10cocoa powder 10-12 g 20
butter g 30pasteurized egg whites g 140
sugar g 20
Begin by beating the tpt with the invert sugar and the first
partof the eggs; add the other eggs a little at a time, followed
bythe other ingredients until you get a soft texture (it takes
aboutten minutes). Weigh out 600 g of mixture per baking tin
andbake on Silpat in a 250C ventilated oven, valve open, forabout
nine minutes. Remove from the mould and cool. Keep inthe freezer
until required.
Chocolate 70% mousse with syrup
syrup 30B g 120pasteurized egg yolks g 60
chocolate 70% g 160cream 35% g 100
medium-thick cream g 250
Boil the syrup and pour over the egg yolks, beating until it
getsto 42C. Melt the chocolate at 45C, and make a classic emul-sion
by adding the first part of hot cream to the chocolate;bring it
back to 40C, mix delicately to the whipped mass andlighten with the
medium thick cream. Pour immediately.
Mogador tea bavaroise
Mogador tea g 25 cream 35% m.g. g 500
pasteurized egg yolks g 450 sugar g 140
gelatine g 30water g 150
mint liqueur g 60medium-thick cream g 1,350
Heat the cream to 80C and brew the tea in it for about 4
mi-nutes; filter and press down well; blanch the sugar with theegg
yolks, add the cream and cook at 85C. Add the softenedgelatine and
emulsify the lot; let it cool. Add the mint liqueurand lighten with
the medium-thick cream.
Neutral icing
neutral gelatine for glazing g 1000butterwater g 25
liposoluble colour g 1
Heat the water, add the sprayed butter and mix with the
gelati-ne. Heat to 38C, emulsify and add the colour.
Assembly Once the sponge has been prepared, make a chocolate
mous-se, pour in Flexipan moulds and blast chill. Assemble in
rever-se order in moulds lined with acetate: on the bottom place
thedehydrated mint leaves and pour in the mint bavaroise; addthe
frozen interior, close with the sponge, level off and makeeven;
blast chill until ready for serving. Remove from themould and glaze
with neutral mint-flavoured gelatine; decoratewith mint leaves and
personal chocolate stamp.
Luca MannoriPasticceria Mannori, Prato
www.mannoriespace.itPhoto Bononi
MOGADOR
NUTRITIONAL VALUES FOR 100 g
carbohydrates 23.82fats 21.3 sugars 0.97kJ 1297.46calories
306.80
TPT (Tantum Per Tantum) refers to a mixture of crushed
almondswith an equal quantity of caster sugar or saccharose.
-
7www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
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8www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Pastry chef Ugo Mignone of Naples presents a series of original
bonbon recipes that usegreens aubergines, carrots, courgettes, and
dried tomatoes as distinguishing ingre-dients, thus creating
unusual combinations with chocolate. Their names come from the
dia-lect spoken in Neaples.They are presented by a greengrocer
Punchinello made entirely by hand using 20 kg ofdark, milk, and
white chocolate. Mignone has taken about five months to come up
with thefinished show piece, working mainly in the evening after
long hours in his pastry shop.
VEGETABLE chocolate bonbons
A MulignanaAubergine chocolate bonbon
cream g 300invert sugar g 70
glucose g 30 dark chocolate 70% g 500
fried aubergines g 150crushed and toasted cocoa g 20
sorbitol g 24
Boil the cream and glucose; add the invert sugar and pour
overthe dark chocolate. Add the aubergines, fried and dried
usingblotting paper, and finally the toasted cocoa and sorbitol.
Pourthe mixture into a mould lined with bronze-sprayed dark
choco-late. Allow it to crystallize; cover and remove from
mould.
A PastenacaCarrot chocolate bonbon
cream g 300glucose g 40 saffron a.r.
grated carrots g 60invert sugar g 40
dark chocolate g 600butter g 50
Mycryo cocoa butter g 20
Bring the cream, glucose, saffron, and grated carrots to a boil.
Letit stand for 2 minutes. Add the invert sugar and pour over
thepre-crystallized chocolate. Add in the softened butter and
theMycryo. Pour into a mould covered with silver-sprayed milk
cho-colate.
O CucuzzielloCourgette chocolate bonbon
cream g 600green tea g 20
fresh mint leaf g 2glucose g 40
steamed courgettes g 50dark chocolate g 500
honey g 40butter g 50
Bring the cream, glucose, green tea, and mint leaf to a boil.
Let itstand for 5 minutes. Pass through the sieve and add the
honey,butter, and courgettes. Mix and pour over the tempered
chocola-te. Pour into moulds lined with ruby-red coloured dark
chocolate70%. Allow it to crystallize; cover and remove from
mould.
OMA
NAPOLI
BARI
LAQUILA
CAMPOBASSO
POTENZA
CATANZARO
MINORISORRENTO
FIRENZE
REGGIO
TORINO
MILANO VENEZIA
UDINE
BOLOGNA
ROMA
NAPOLI
BARI
CAGLIARI
GENOVA
TRENTO
PERUGIA
ANCONA
LAQUILA
CAMPOBASSO
POTENZA
CATANZARO
PALERMO
TRIESTE
CATANIA
PRATO
PADOVA
SIRACUSA
RAPALLO
CUNEO
RIMINI
SANSEPOLCRO
PINEROLO PIACENZA
SENIGALLIA
ALBA
SAVIGNO
SOTTOMARINAASTI
TORREPELLICE
COSTIGLIOLEDASTI
CORTINA DAMPEZZO
MINORISORRENTO
CASTELBUONO
NOTO
ABBIATEGRASSO
-
PULCINELLAPulcinella, called Punch or Punchinello in English, is
a character that originated inthe Italian Commedia dell'arte of the
17th century, and became a famous characterin Neapolitan puppetry.
His main physical characteristic is his extremely long no-se, which
resembles a beak, and hes always white dressed and black
masked(hence conciliating the opposites of life and death). He has
become an archetypeof humanity with all its complexities and
contradictions.
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com9
A PummarolaDried tomato chocolate bonbon
raspberry puree g 300saccharose g 80
cream g 150honey g 70
dark chocolate 70% g 600butter g 50
dried tomatoes g 80
Boil the saccharose and raspberry puree for a few minutes.
Bringthe cream to a boil. Mix everything together and pour over the
fi-nely chopped chocolate. Add the honey, butter and dried
tomatoes(chopped). Pour into a round Flexipan mould. Let it harden,
thencover with dark chocolate 70%.
Ugo MignonePasticceria Mignone, Naples
Dolci del Sole is the title of the new book in Italian by pastry
chefSalvatore De Riso published for Rizzoli (www.rizzoli.eu): 255
pageswith more than 60 recipes, sweet and savoury, that are a
declaration oflove for Mediterranean ingredients such as citrus
fruits, fresh and driedfruits, vegetables, cheeses and olive oils.
A real collection of ideas, verywell illustrated, which
representthe long career of this pastrychef, starting from 1988
withthe lemon profiteroles. The book also looks into the hi-story
and geographical originsof the De Riso family, thanks al-so to the
many b-w and coloredpictures.For more information about theauthor,
www.deriso.it.
Dedicated to theCostiera Amalfitana
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS
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EW
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10www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS
Gelato in Tavola at SigepThis January, the Italian gelato makers
union Co.Gel-Fipe and the international gelato and
confectionaryfair Sigep organize the 4th edition of the
internatio-nal Enzo Vannozzi Trofeo Gelato in Tavola. Cooksand
gelato makers from all over the world compete in creating
three-course menusthat must include something 'hot' combined with a
'gelato'.Argentina, Brazil, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Hungary,
and the USA are the nationsparticipating in the competition. The
eight competing teams include three memberseach, in addition to a
president with right of vote, who is part of the technical
jurypresided over by Mauro Petrini. Paolo Marchi, founder of
Identit Golose - is presi-dent of the five-member press jury
(www.gelatointavola.it).
Meant for confectioners and gelatomakers, Hopl Pi by Cooperlat
is aproduct of fully vegetable origin, verysimilar to natural
liquid cream. It isavailable in one-litre packs and suita-ble for
making cakes, gelato cakesand other specialties. It can be
usedalone as topping and filling or combi-ned with other flavours
to obtainmousses, tiramis, etc.Its final output is high and it can
bestored at room temperature for 24hours. It can also be
successfully fro-zen and thawed and does not contain hydrogenated
fats. Hopl Pi canbe mixed with flavouring products such as cocoa,
vanilla, hazelnut paste,coffee, fruit, eggs, yogurt and liqueurs.
It can be frozen as plain cream orcombined with fresh cream. Hopl
Pi is a low-fat product, which can be used as base for
fruit-fla-voured gelato. It is also available without sugar and is
suitable for bothprofessional and domestic use
(www.cooperlat.it).
A product of vegetable origin
The chocolate makers of La Molina from Quarrata, nearPistoia,
have recently launched three small take-away bags si-milar to the
Japanese bento baskets.They are three packets for breakfast, lunch
and dinner in a dayentirely devoted to chocolate, or for three days
with a singlechocolate meal for each (www.lamolina.it).
Chocolate bento
With its latest, state-of-the-artcreations TeknoStamap meetsthe
new requests of the market. Inall the Autosmart 7000 modelsthe user
friendly touch screen withits smart software makes pro-gramming a
snap. It is possible toset 50 working programs and linktogether
several laminating cyclesin a sequence. Sequential programming
offers the possibility of setting starts,stops, increase and
decrease of the roller gap to meet specific needs withoutmanual
operation. The new automatic flour duster and the stress free
doughwinder further reduce working time. Starting from medium
productions up to in-dustrial needs, these machines are a reliable
and effective aid.Autosmarts special features are: variable speed
of the belts from 20 to 120cm/sec; 8" color touch-screen; dough
reeler with stress-free system; flour dusterwith adjustable flour
quantity. Optional accessories include dough width control;cutting
device with rollers and variable speed.With its rollers of 123 mm
diameter, Autosmart 123 can handle very hard doughand get the
thinnest sheets. Auto 123 is available with 700 mm or 800 mm
con-veyor width, to work larger dough blocks with almost no limits
of weight.Its special features are: rollers positioning with
vertical drive; lamination rollers123 mm of diameter; variable
speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec ; colortouchscreen 8;
dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjusta-ble
flour quantity. Optional accessories include dough width control
and a cut-ting device with rollers and variable speed
(www.teknostamap.com).
State-of-the-art machines
Imagine, draw and car-ve this is the slogan ofa new school
recentlyopened in Calabria, in thecity of Vibo Valentia.Cristal Ice
has been founded by GiuseppeMandaradoni and is intended for
professionals wis-hing to learn the techniques of ice sculpture and
car-ving (www.associazionecristalice.it).
Ice carving in Vibo Valentia
The International PtisserieGrand Prix 2009 will take pla-ce in
Japan, Tokyo, at Meets PortJCB Hall of Tokyo Dome City, on14 and 15
March. The contestwill involve national teams ofthree members each,
from allover the world. The regulations state that eachteam must
develop the themeof Ecology through a sugar and a chocolate
showpiece, a plated dessert, an entremets glac, an entremets,
twotypes of chocolate bonbons, a gteaux de voyage, five types of
petits gteaux. The winners will be awarded a prizein money
(7,500,000 yen), a gold medal and a trophy.The Italian team
includes Fabrizio Galla, Gennaro Volpe and Andrea Zanin; Iginio
Massari is their trainer.
The International Ptisserie Grand Prix 2009
Galla VolpeZanin
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12
butter g 450 caster sugar g 200invert sugar g 75
egg yolks g 400whole eggs g 250
dark chocolate 55% g 650anhydrous butter oil g 50
egg whites g 500caster sugar g 250
almond powder g 500flour g 250
baking powder g 10
Whisk butter with caster and invert sugar, slowly add the egg
yolksand whole eggs. Melt the dark chocolate at 35C, add the
butter
SACHERSOUP
VARIATIONS ON A THEME
oil and pour into the whisked mixture. Then lighten themixture
by alternately adding the egg whites whisked toge-ther with sugar,
and the sieved powders. Spread to 1 cmthick, bake at 160C for
approx. 8-12 minutes. Cool in ablast chiller. Cut Sacher biscuit
into 1x1 cm cubes, heat afrying pan, melt a knob of butter with
some cane sugar,add the Sacher cubes and stir. Use straight
away.
Soft apricots with vanilla and unpeeled almonds
water g 600caster sugar g 150vanilla bean no 1
sliced apricots g 1.000 almonds (unpeeled
and slightly chopped) g 175
Bring water with sugar and vanilla bean to a boil and pourover
the apricots and almonds. Refrigerate in an airtightcontainer,
leave for at least 24 hours before use.
Chocolate gelato
fresh full-fat milk L 1 egg yolks g 60
caster sugar g 100dextrose g 150
chocolate 64% g 400table salt g 1
Heat egg yolks with milk. Combine sugar with dextrose andadd to
the milk. Cook in a microwave oven at 82-85C,add diced chocolate
and salt. Blend for 5 minutes. Cool ina blast chiller. Place in the
ice cream maker, then store at -18C.
AssemblyPut the apricots into the stone container, bake at
180Cfor approx. 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped almonds,then add
the hot Sacher cubes. Serve with dark chocolategelato.
Leonardo Di Carlo www.leonardodicarlo.com
Photo Giancarlo Bononi
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
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13
Sacher biscuit
butter g 375chocolate 62% g 350
invert sugar g 50egg yolks g 180
biscuit sugar g 160cocoa 10-12 g 40
egg whites g 270sugar g 350
Beat the butter with the melted chocolate to 40C, the
temperedegg yolks and the invert sugar. With a spatula add the
siftedpowders and beaten egg whites with the sugar. Roll out to 1
cmthickness and bake at 200C. Remove from the oven, turn over,and
cool on a grille.
Apricot compote
ripe apricots g 600 sugar g 300
apricot pulp g 900 sugar g 300
pectin g 15lemon juice g 20
gelatine sheets g 20
Cook the apricots in cubes with the sugar. Mix the sugar,
pectinand pulp, and bring to the boil. Add the lemon juice,
cookedapricots and softened gelatine. Roll out and blast chill.
Chocolate mousse 62%
milk g 500chocolate 62% g 1000
cream g 600
Bring the milk to 80C and pour over thechopped chocolate.
Emulsify in themixer. At 34C stir in the whippedcream and use
immediately.
A SACHERPETITDark chocolate ganache 62%
milk g 500cream g 500
glucose g 300 chocolate 62% g 850
butter g 250
Bring to a boil the milk with the cream, add the glucose andpour
over the chopped chocolate in the mixer and emulsify withthe
softened butter. Use or store at 4C.
Assembly and decorationAssemble the sweet in reverse order (in
30x20 cm moulds) onacetate sheets in the following order: dark
chocolate ganache,biscuit, mousse, mixture and biscuit, ganache,
biscuit. Press andblast chill. Cut into square portions and cover
with chocolateicing. Finish with semicandied apricots and small
gold chocolatebars.
NotesA petit gteau format for a Viennese sweet that has
conqueredthe entire world. At the moment of tasting it is
interesting to dis-cover the alternation of dark chocolate in three
consistencies:biscuit, ganache, and mousse. Suggested beverage
Calvados, coffee, Port.
Nutritional values for 100 g
proteins 4.9lipids 22.93
carbohydrates 69.18calories 480
Riccardo MagniPhoto Mario Spreafico
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
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14www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS
Research and innovation: Roboqbo presents some innovations
characterizedby a high technological content, directly related to
the well known UniversalCutters QBO. It is a unique tool for
kneading, emulsifying, mincing, grindingand cooking up to 120 C. It
also makes concentrates, and it enables vacuumsealing and blast
chilling, resulting in an infinite number of recipes.Through the
QBO line, Roboqbo introduces an innovative software which ma-nages
all production phases. It monitors in real time all cooking and
coolingdiagrams for traceability purposes. The user can watch on
the monitor all thedata related to production cost and energy
consumption for each recipe orprocess. Moreover, this software
transmits data to the technical departmentfor assistance and
emergency recovery purposes.Based in Bologna, and on the market for
30 years, Roboqbo is always trying toimprove energy savings. Thanks
to the new heating technology, the machineachieves the same results
with lower energy consumption.Universal Cutters QBO makes recipes
of intense fragrance, colours and fla-vours, developed for very
short cooking periods, therefore guaranteeing qua-lity and
preservation of organoleptic properties of the ingredients
processed.They are available in different bowl capacity and are
made of stainless steelAISI 316L, therefore guaranteeing the health
of the products processed.Clients are given the additional option
of an exclusive 3-year guarantee cove-ring any kind of special
assistance (www.roboqbo.com).
High quality productionIrinox presents the in-novative and
versatilepreservation system CpMulti, which can be cu-stomized
according tothe type of production,season and individualneeds.
It can be positive (0/15C), for extremely delicate products that
are difficult topreserve; negative (0/-35), to create a stock with
guaranteed temperaturestability; chocolate (14/15C), when
production is intense and products must beheld at very low humidity
levels and a constant temperature. Moreover, Irinoxsoftware is
customizable on the basis of the required production standards. The
air management system and humidity management system make it
possi-ble to set and adjust temperature and humidity in the holding
cabinet, ensuringmaximum uniformity and the right ventilation at
any chosen level. It is very important that the holding cabinet is
completely bacteria-free and to-tally healthy, and for this reason
Sanigen, a complete air sanitation system, isalso included,
avoiding the mixing of flavours and keeping the original scentsand
aromas. Cp Multi ensures considerable energy savings (-30/40%), due
to the optimizedmanagement of the multi compressors and fans that
work alternately to main-tain constant temperature. The higher
power of compressors makes it possibleto recover temperaturerapidly
every time thedoor is opened.Irinox new holding ca-binets have a
solidstainless steel construc-tion, with CE and elec-trical safety
certificationto current standards.Numerous technologi-cal
improvements havebeen adopted, such asthe ergonomic
handle,Irinox-made hinges, in-terior illumination byLED and many
other details (www.irinox.com).
The right preservation
The Culinary Team Palermo of the Associazione ProvincialeCuochi
e Pasticcieri won the bronze medal at the CookingOlympiad of
Erfurt, Germany, in which more than one thou-sand one hundred cooks
from fifty-three nations took part. The team from Sicily wanted to
pay tribute to dance and tothe huge repertory of classical ballet.
'I am satisfied with theresult obtained,' says Giuseppe Giuliano,
president of theassociation and team coach, 'especially when you
considerthe global importance of the Olympiad and how ours wasthe
only team from the province of Palermo to participate ina joint
effort with the Unione Regionale Cuochi. My congra-tulations to the
lads for their team effort and
commitment.(www,cuochipalermo.it)
Bronze for the Culinary Team Palermo
Biagio Settepanis Pasticceria Bruno(www.pasticceriabruno.com) in
New York was ce-lebrated by the magazine Modern Baking as thebest
2008 pastry shop in the Usa. Biagios story wastold in a long
article, starting from his arrival in NewYork from his native
Sicily, and casually finding a jobin a confectionery shop. Today he
runs his successfulshops in Greenwich Village, Manhattan, and
StatenIsland, with his wife Pina and his childrenSalvatore, Fina
and Joseph. He has a long careerin the field of international
competitions and alsoteaches in professional schools.In November
Settepani came to Italy for theAccademia Maestri Pasticceri
Italianis annualpublic meeting. He was awarded a special price
forhis personal commitment to spreading Italian pastryart abroad.
He was made honorary member of AMPIduring the official ceremony in
Verona.
Biagios Awards
From left, Gianni Pina (president of AMPI), Biagio Settepaniand
Iginio Massari.
The Salon du Chocolat Professionnel will take place from 14th to
the 16thOctober in Paris, showing the trends in the sector of
chocolate packaging, equipmentand raw materials. The international
show which will involve processers, manufactu-rers, distributors
and chocolatiers will take place alongside its sister show, the
Salondu Chocolat, i.e. the consumer chocolate show
(www.salonduchocolat.fr). Over 100 exhibitors and 11,000 visitors
from all over the worldwill be visiting the event and many events
will take place, in-cluding seminars and the World Chocolate
Masters - WorldFinals, organized by Barry
Callebaut(www.worldchocolatemasters.com), which is the
internatio-nal competition devoted to the creative use of chocolate
in allits applications (www.salonduchocolatprofessionnel.com).
Salon du ChocolatProfessionnel in Paris
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16www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
The PasticceriaBesuschio, todayheaded by Andrea,has been in the
centre of Abbiategrasso since 1845. Here past and future are a
winning combination
Abbiategrasso is well worth a visit. This small town located
bet-ween the River Ticino and the Naviglio Grande is just twenty
ki-lometres from Milan; it is a small jewel preserved by time.
Theold part with its square dating to the Middle Ages, the
CastelloVisconteo dating to 1200, and the Santa Maria Nuova
complex,comprising a church with its beautiful Renaissance
four-sidedportico and the Convento dell'Annunciata with frescos
from the15th century, are in no way inferior to the monuments found
inmore famous cities. Another good reason to visit is the
Pasticceria Besuschio, notonly to taste delicious sweets, the local
'pagnotta di Fra' withyellow flour, honey, and figs, the 'Porfido'
plum cake with cocoaseed flour, the aromatic Mitsukami Cake with
hazelnut, carda-mom and lemon rind infusion with a gianduia stick
inside, andother innovative products. In addition to satisfying the
palate,the confectioner's is also worth a visit for the snippet of
historythat its walls contain. The shop, located beneath the
porticos ofPiazza Marconi in a building dating to the 15th and 16th
centu-
FIVE GENERATIONS of the Besuschio name
ries, represents more than 150 years of family business,
foun-ded by Ambrogio Besuschio back in 1845. Today the companyis in
its fifth generation and is managed by Andrea.
A BUSY WORKSHOPIn total there are four workshops. In the first
workshop there arerefrigerators for storing products, and the blast
chiller. Andrea iskeen to specify, 'the various product categories,
such ascreams, doughs, fruit, and chocolate decorations, are kept
sepa-rate for reasons of hygiene. This more careful organization
wasintroduced by me twenty years ago' .In a second more
'historical' workshop, the doughs are made.This is where the old
family oven is located: 'It is more than sixtyyears old and is
built with more than sixty thousand bricks agedin water. It is an
immense structure on two levels (you get to thesecond level with a
small ladder) capable of containing a total of36 70x40 cm plates.
It is a static oven that bakes uniformly andis less aggressive than
conventional ventilated ovens,' explainsthe owner. 'It is always
turned on at around 150C, which ex-plains our non-aggressive
baking. Over the years the oven hasbeen modified, partly to keep in
line with current safety norms.Today it is gas fired, but
originally it used wood, then carbon,and later gas oil.' Positioned
behind the oven burner is a small dough-risingchamber, with peak
areas of 40C, which makes use of the heat.'The ideal for
decrystallizing chocolate without resorting to tanksor microwaves
is to keep spay guns always ready, the samegoes for colours and
cocoa butter'.The third workshop is for the preparation of gelato
bases (nextto the shop there is also a gelato parlour, open during
summer),doughs, and classical cake assemblies for the refrigerated
coun-ter. Chocolate is processed in a separate fourth
laboratory.
Pasticceria Besuschio in one historical photo of the early 20th
century, and the shop front today.
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www.pasticceriainternazionale.com17
The San Bernardino roof tile, designed by Besuschio in 1987 to
remember the renovation of the old church ofAbbiategrasso.
Revised jam tart: recomposed shortcrust pastrywith gianduia,
gianduia mousse with cardamom infusion and apricot jam.
Biegrasot: small slabs with gianduia filling, infusionof Jamaica
pepper and almond brittle.
REGGIO
TORINO
MILANO VENEZIA
BOLOGNAGENOVA
TRENTO
PRATO
PADOVA
RAPALLO
CUNEO
RIM
SANSEPOLCRO
PIACENZAALBA
SAVIGNO
SOTTOMARASTI
COSTIGLIOLEDASTI
CORTINA DAMPEZZO
ABBIATEGRASSO
FIRENZE
REGGIO
TORINO
MILANO VENEZIA
UDINE
BOLOGNA
ROMA
NAPOLI
BARI
CAGLIARI
GENOVA
TRENTO
PERUGIA
ANCONA
LAQUILA
CAMPOBASSO
POTENZA
CATANZARO
PALERMO
TRIESTE
CATANIA
PRATO
PADOVA
SIRACUSA
RAPALLO
CUNEO
RIMINI
SANSEPOLCRO
PINEROLO PIACENZA
SENIGALLIA
ALBA
SAVIGNO
SOTTOMARINAASTI
TORREPELLICE
COSTIGLIOLEDASTI
CORTINA DAMPEZZO
MINORISORRENTO
CASTELBUONO
NOTO
ABBIATEGRASSO
A
B
C
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18www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
HATS OFF TO RATIONALITYWe asked Andrea how he runs
productionwhich, in addition to the sweets on sale inthe shop, also
caters for weddings (aboutone a day in peak season), receptions,
andevents. "First of all, production must be ra-tionalized with
well organized spaces. Onlyin this way you can provide consistent
le-vels of high quality production. Rationalization becomes even
more diffi-cult when you are dealing with fresh pro-ducts, but the
confectioner manages themusing identification codes and a FIFO
(firstin first out) approach. 'Praline making is al-so demanding
from this point of view,bearing in mind that it does not make useof
deep-freezing. I have always used thehighest quality materials, and
the most ar-tisanal, preservative-free products availa-ble. This is
why in the refrigerators I subdi-vide the pralines according to
their dura-tion, so that I can keep them under moreeffective
control'.
PRODUCT DIVERSIFICATIONUpon returning to the shop we look
morecarefully at the window display and realisejust how diversified
production is. Butwhat is even more striking is the
equallydiversified packaging, which Roberta(Andrea's wife) takes
care of. She even ca-me up with the idea for the company logomade
with the letters of the Besuschio na-
me. Making innovative packaging, diffe-rent to what the rest of
the market offers,presents difficulties for a small businesssuch as
this: "You have to turn to compa-nies that manufacture industrial
quantities.If you keep changing the type of packa-ging, you need a
lot of storage space, notto mention the financial outlay'.
Rossella Contato
From left, almond mousse with praline cremeux, lemon zest,
apricot jam, crunchy pearls and light pistachio cream. Three
chocolate mousses with dark gianduia puff pastry. Africa Mia cocoa
streuzel.Almond streuzel monoportions with light pistachio
mousse.
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Plunk pistachio
caster sugar g 200almond flour g 200
flour g 200caster sugar g 20
yeast g 20pistachio paste g 280
butter g 200egg whites g 640
Use a spatula to mix the caster sugar, almond flour, flour,
yeast, pi-stachio paste, and soft butter. Whisk the egg whites and
incorpo-rate delicately into the mixture. Pour into buttered moulds
sprin-kled with flour. Insert the melted ganache from the oven.
Pistachio passion cremeux
passion fruit pulp g 100gelatine g 8
pistachio paste 70% g 700passion fruit pulp g 350
Soften the gelatine in plenty of water. Bring to a boil the 100
g ofpassion fruit pulp, add in the gelatine and create a first
emulsionover the pistachio paste. Heat the remaining 350 g of
passion fruitpulp and complete the emulsion without incorporating
air. Coverthe mixture with film, place in the refrigerator and use
the day af-ter.
Passion fruit liquid centre
chocolate extra noire 53% g 500passion fruit pulp g 500
invert sugar g 40corn flour g 24
Melt the chocolate, add the passion fruit pulp, invert sugar,
andcorn flour; heat. Pour the mixture on three occasions over
the
melted chocolate to create an emulsion. Pour into 5 cm dia-meter
moulds and place in the freezer.
Pasticceria BesuschioAbbiategrasso, Mi
www.pasticceriabesuschio.itPhotos Giancarlo Bononi
PLUNK PPC CHOCOLATE PISTACCHIO PASSION
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SN
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NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS
The fifth edition ofIdentit Golose, theItalian congress of
hautecuisine invented by jour-nalist Paolo Marchi, ta-kes place in
Milan fromthe 1 to the 4 February, involving well-known chefs and
pastrychefs from all over the world. This years issues are
summarized by three words: Vegetables(all that comes from vegetable
gardens, green fields and theseas); Life (raw and healthy food), 20
Years Old (young chefs).Other themes are: the Great Families, i.e.
the handling down ofprofessional talent from generation to
generation; Marche andFrance, the 2009 Italian host region and the
world host country;the great pastry chefs and the excellencies of
chocolate and des-serts (with Valrhona); the world of wine;
sapphron; creative cock-tails (www.identitagolose.it).
Identit Golose in Milan
20www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
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22www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
The Spiced Coffee can be prepared withwhite chocolate cream,
here served in tallcoloured glasses, or else with gianduiacream in
low glasses.
Gianduja (or, more commonly, gianduia) is a chocolate containing
about 50%hazelnut paste. It takes its name from Gianduja, a
Piedmontese Carnival cha-racter. Piedmont is the Italian region
where hazelnut confectionery is com-mon. Gianduiotti, a speciality
of Turin, are chocolates shaped like an upturnedboat made with a
mixture of cocoa and hazelnut paste.
Zabaglione is an Italian dessert made of egg yolks, sugar, and
Marsala wine.It is usually served warm, though it can be served
cold, or as a sauce, oreven frozen.
TRIS
COFFEE B
REAK
-
espresso coffee cl 3white chocolate cream cl 3
caramel cl 1rum and cinnamon zabaglione cl 3
This preparation is a sort of destructured cocktail made of
choco-late cream, zabaglione and espresso coffee, served separately
inthree small glasses. To obtain 6 cl of chocolate cream, melt 40 g
of white chocolate.When melted, add 2 cl of liquid cream and 1 cl
of milk; mix andbring to a creamy consistency. Pour into a shot
glass, the bottomof which already has 1 cl of liquid caramel. If
you wish, the creamcan be prepared with gianduia instead of white
chocolate, whichresults in something even more interesting in terms
of aroma.For the rum and cinnamon zabaglione, beat an egg yolk with
30 gof sugar in a jug, add the cinnamon powder and bring to acreamy
consistency; add 1 cl of dark rum. When your mixture is
creamy, pour it into a small glass and sprinkle with dark
cocoa.Prepare an espresso coffee, sweeten with sugar syrup and
whiskin the blender with some ice chippings. Pour this also into
thesmall glass.
Dessert-version destructured cocktailIn addition to serving it
cold, following the instructions in the pre-vious recipe, Spiced
coffee can also be served hot.For the cream, melt the chocolate and
mix it with the other ingre-dients, as explained above, but pour
the hot mixture into a shotglass with caramel on the bottom. For
the zabaglione, after havingbeaten the eggs with the sugar and
added the rum, froth it upwith the vapour nozzle of the espresso
machine and pour it into ashot glass. Finally, prepare the coffee
and sweeten it directly inthe shot glass (or in a small cup).
Roberto BianchiThanks go to Rinaldo Merlone,
director of the 'A. Prever' institute of Pinerolo,Alexandra
Raluca Gadalean and Alberto Ferrero
Photos Remo Caffaro
Spiced Coffee
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24www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
CRUNCHY SWEETS
flour kg 2butter kg 1.2
caster sugar g 800egg yolks no. 8
whole eggs no. 2baking powder g 20aromas, vanilla, salt and
lemon to taste
Amalgamate the butter and sugar well, add both the egg yolks
andwhole eggs, making sure they are properly mixed with the
butterand sugar; lastly, add in the flour and aromas (it is
basically the sa-me as a traditional short pastry). Make
canestrelli and half coverthem with dark chocolate.
short pastry for Canestrelli of Torriglia kg 1
sour-cherry syrup g 100crushed cocoa beans g 200
Add the sour-cherry syrup and crushed cocoa beans to the
cane-strelli mixture. Amalgamate everything well, and make small
ba-tons. Brush the upper part with egg before baking. Cut up the
ba-tons and drizzle with chocolate over top.
Crunchy hazelnut petits gteaux
milk g 100butter g 140
glucose g 100 Boil for 23 minutes
and then addcaster sugar g 300
crushed hazelnut praline g 300
Amalgamate well and spread out on baking paper. Bake at 160-180C
until brown. Cool slightly, make squares using a pastry cut-ter and
arrange them on a non-stick surface.
Zabaglione chantilly cream
egg yolks no. 10whole egg no. 1
sugar g 250Beat well and add
spoon of flour no. 1dry Marsala wine g 250
Bring to a boil, mixing well over the heat. Transfer to another
pan.Cool and add a little cream.
Canestrelli of Torriglia
Breakfast cookies
Crunchy delicacies
CANESTRELLOThe canestrello or canestrelletto of Torriglia is a
small short-pastry co-okie typical of Torriglia, a town in the
Genoese hinterland. It has the sha-pe of a six-pointed star,
sometimes with a hole in the middle and a du-sting of icing sugar.
It even has a festival in its honour, held every year inTorriglia,
in the Ligurian Apennines, in which all producers from theConsorzio
del Canestrelletto take part.
-
Wild-berry sauce
wild-berry pulp g 500caster sugar g 500
glucose g 80
Bring to a boil for 23 minutes. Cool on a steel sheet and keep
inthe refrigerator. It can also be used for shiny icing.
Assembly Prepare dark chocolate bases and place the hazelnut
crunch ontop, shaped like little baskets.
For the petits gteaux withzabaglione chantilly cream, on
each
crunchy base add a small slice of sponge soaked inMaraschino
syrup, a drop of pure zabaglione, and finally the zaba-glione
chantilly cream. Drizzle with pure zabaglione and decoratewith
chocolate curls and grilles.For the chocolate petits gteaux, place
some chocolate gianduiamousse (100 g of cream for 40 g of gianduia
chocolate) on thecrunchy base, followed by a hemisphere of white
chocolate con-taining the wild-berry sauce. Decorate with dabs of
chocolate.
Antonio Le RoseIl Tempio del Cioccolato, Genova
Photos Tom Studio
-
Viva Dolce'sproducts are
true to the bestof traditions.This together
with innovativemarketing
strategies isthe secret of
sweet success.
VIVA DOLCEFIFTEEN YEARS OF CERTIFIEDQUALITY.Viva Dolce takes off
from Naples, the home of great confectionary.Based in Naples,
Salvatore Michele Acquaviva is exporting his artisanspirit all over
Italy. He has used passion and charisma to turn a dreaminto
reality. Now his company employs a total of thirty-five workers,
be-ginning with his daughter Maria, in charge of quality, and his
son-in-law Carlo Antonio D'Alessandro, in charge of marketing and
sales.Located in San Gennarello di Ottaviano, soon to be flanked by
the newestablishment, their professional work ethic and constant
search forbetter quality, in addition to control of the entire
supply and productionprocess mean Viva Dolce can turn to a select
and knowledgeable clien-tele.From the very beginning, Viva Dolce
has been a market leader in qual-ity frozen sweets and snacks. All
of its products from homemadecones to babas, lobster-tail
sfogliatellas, rustic delights and croquettes,not to mention the
Neapolitan pastiera, sensual sfogliatellas, and clas-sic or
innovative offerings are the result of a painstaking research,
se-lection and application of natural ingredients. First-class
materials,strict hygiene/food-safety norms, and a keeping to old
artisan recipesgive you the most mouth-watering tastes.What makes
Viva Dolce unique is the product quality certification re-served
for the company's jewel in the crown: the Neapolitan sfogli-atella,
made exclusively by hand. The recipe gives the most refinedpalates
the fragrance and pleasure of a unique sweet supplied in largeor
small orders depending on the individual needs of every bar,
con-fectioner's shop, restaurant, or hotel.Precisely because it
guards and promotes the confectionary tradition ofNaples, Viva
Dolce is officially backed by the Associazione
PasticcieriNapoletani, which promotes and protects the art and
quality of Neapoli-tan confectionary the world over.Viva Dolce's
good practice extends to other areas also, not only pro-duction.
Passion, care, and attention to detail also on a social level are
all part of the company's identity. This social commitment adds
asweet touch to aspects of life that would otherwise be bitter and
diffi-cult to bear, as parents of children with Duchenne and Becker
Muscu-lar Dystrophy know only too well. In support of their
association (ParentProject) and of the scientific research they are
involved in, Viva Dolcehas invested considerable moral and economic
resources.This social awareness, together with the protection of
company em-
ployees and a respect for all legislative norms, hasbeen
recognised at national level with the prestigiousethical work
certification SA8000:2001.Also holders of the Quality Control
Management Certi-fication (UNI EN ISO 9001:2000 ) and the
Environ-mental Management Certification (ISO 14001:2004),Viva Dolce
is the company to turn to if what you areseeking is a feast for the
senses. No need to order largequantities then, especially when you
consider that qual-ity is a privilege achieved in small steps.
Via Raggi, 20 - 80044 Gennarello di Ottaviano - NATel. +39 081
5297891 - Fax +39 081 8284329www.vivadolce.it
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27
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS
Viva Dolce ofSan Gennarellodi Ottaviano,near Naples, isa market
leaderin quality fro-zen sweets andsnacks. All ofthe products from
homema-de cones to ba-bas, lobster-tailsfogliatellas,rustic
delightsand croquettes,not to mention the Neapolitanpastiera,
sfogliatellas, and clas-sic or innovative offerings arethe result
of research, selectionand application of natural ingre-dients.
First-class materials, stricthygiene/food-safety norms, anda
keeping to old artisan recipesassure the most
mouth-wateringtastes.Moreover, Viva Dolce acquiredthe product
quality certificationfor its Neapolitan sfogliatella, made
exclusively by hand. The recipe gi-ves the fragrance and pleasure
of a special sweet, supplied in large orsmall orders depending on
the individual needs of every bar, confectio-ner's shop,
restaurant, or hotel.Precisely because it guards and promotes the
confectionary traditionof Naples, Viva Dolce is officially backed
by the Associazione PasticcieriNapoletani
(www.pasticcierinapoletani.it), which promotes andprotects the art
and quality of Neapolitan confectionary the worldover
(www.vivadolce.it).
Certified quality from Naples
Sfogliatella by Viva Dolce
Viva Dolces staff and the owners.
The new museum of the historical kitchens ofthe Palazzo Reale
was inaugurated in Turin: fif-teen rooms in which visitors can see
the kit-chens of King Vittorio Emanuele III and QueenElena, the
kitchens of Prince Umberto ofPiedmont and of Maria Jos of Belgium,
ice-houses, pantries, and a large cellar.The careful restoration of
the rooms, furnitureand kitchen utensils has given a new lease of
li-fe to the jobs and venues of the past; we cansee the work of
cooks, confectioners, kitchenhands and maids, and sommeliers with
theirwork instruments. Two thousand pieces in cop-per have been
catalogued, from the large fish trays to small moulds for sweetsand
biscuits, not to mention chopping blocks, ovens, and spits, which
in this evo-cative exhibition reveal the secret everyday life of
the royal kitchens. In the Apartment of Madama Felicita, various
items for the royal tables, break-fast, tea, and chocolate are
presented by Consolata Pralormo
Design.(www.ambienteto.arti.beniculturali.it/reale.htm).
Turin's Royal kitchens reopened
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Bravo Trittico Executiveis a partner of the
World Pastry Cup 2009
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29
The Amoretti 2008 World Pastry Team Championship took place
inNashville (Usa) at the end of August, and was won by Team
Usa.
Runners up were Japan and Switzerland, with Italy in fourth
place.For more info, www.pastrychampionship.com
at the WPTC 2008
Rossano Vinciarelli
Roberto Rinaldini
Fabrizio Galla
THE ITALIAN RECIPES
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
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30www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
SPIRAL OF... Entremets
Almond, Piedmont hazelnut and Pisa pine kernel crunchy
butter g 55 glucose powder g 30
water g 30 icing sugar g 130
pectin g 2,5 Pisa pine kernel, chopped g 50
Piedmont hazelnuts, chopped g 50 Bari almonds, chopped g 50
Mix all the ingredients together, spread between two Silpat
andcook in the oven for 10 minutes at 180C.
66% chocolate sponge cake
butter g 90 fresh egg whites g 360
dehidrated egg whites g 7 white cane caster sugar g 75
caster sugar g 125 pasteurized yolks g 200
flour g 60 starch g 60
66% chocolate g 180
Melt butter and chocolate together at 45C. Apart, mix sugarand
dehydrated egg whites. Whip the egg whites with the sugarand
dehydrated egg whites mixture. Sift the powders together.Add gently
the yolks to the egg whites and whip with the eggbeater. Take a
small amount of it and add to the chocolate andbutter mixture to
dilute it. Combine the two mixtures and addthe sifted flours using
the spatula. Spread on a silicon mat in theproper mould. Cook at
170C for 7 minutes.
Vanilla soak
white cane sugar g 200 water g 200
vanilla pod no. 2
Bring syrup and vanilla pods to the boil. Let it cool and
thensoak the sponge cake.
Lemon-scented raspberry and strawberry gel
10% sweetened strawberry pulp g 100 10% sweetened raspberry pulp
g 100
gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 3,6 white cane sugar g 30
inverted sugar g 10 grated lemon n. 1
Soak the gelatine; heat the pulps at 35C and add the
sugars.Combine the soaked gelatine and pour 80 g over the exotic
cre-meux.
Exotic fruits cremeux
10% sweetened passion fruit pulp g 150
10% sweetened coconut pulp g 100 10% sweetened mango pulp g
50
Amalfi fresh lemon juice g 35 white cane sugar g 300
dextrose g 40 glucose powder g 20 gelatine sheets g 9
butter 82% g 440 fresh cream 37% g 160
Cook the fruit pulps, the lemon juice and the powder at 82C.Let
it cool down to 40C, add the previously melted gelatinesheets in
the microwave, and in the cutter combine the butterand the fresh
cream. Use 150 grams for cake.
Tahiti vanilla cremeux
fresh whole milk g 300 fresh cream 37% g 450
glucose powder g 15 inverted sugar g 30
white cane sugar g 90 pasteurized yolks g 210
rice starch g 7,5 gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 12
Tahiti vanilla pod no. 2
Prepare and cook the custard at 86C; cool in the blast
chillerand add the gelatine at 35C.
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31
66% chocolate cremeux
custard g 300 66% chocolate g 300
Lightly melt the chocolate in the microwave and emulsify withthe
custard; pour it immediately in the proper mould.
Custard
fresh cream 35% g 250fresh milk g 110
pasteurized yolks g 100 white cane sugar g 60
maize starch g 5
Cook all the ingredients at 82C, then cool quickly in the
blastchiller.
Hazelnut and caramel panna cotta
fresh cream 35% butterfat g 500 glucose g 50
white cane sugar g 250 gelatine g 14
Piedmont hazelnut paste g 220
Prepare a dry caramel, de-cook with cream and glucose, addthe
gelatine and let it cool down to 35C, combining the hazel-nut at
60C.
66% chocolate, Piedmont hazelnut and caramel mousse
chocolate cremeux g 150 vanilla cremeux g 150
caramel panna cotta g 500 whipped cream g 150
Mix the two cremeux with the panna cotta at 35C and lightenwith
whipped cream.
Vanilla, chocolate and caramel glaze
fresh cream 35% g 600 cane sugar g 525
glucose 43 DE g 405 gelatine g 30
salt g 2 Bourbon vanilla pod no. 3
milk chocolate g 150
Dry-caramelize the sugar and heat cream, cocoa, glucose
andvanilla together. Slowly pour the liquid mixture over the
carameland bring to the boil for a few minutes. Add the gelatine
andemulsify to the chocolate with a dipping blender.
AssemblyThis entremets is assembled in reverse order in a
suitable sili-con mould. Place 150 g of vanilla cremeux, then
insert the firstinner part composed of chocolate sponge cake,
exotic cremeuxand red fruits pulp. Then add the other 150 g of
vanilla cremeuxand close with the inner part made of chocolate,
hazelnut andcaramel mousse, chocolate Sponge cake and crunchy. Put
inthe blast chiller at -30C, pull the dessert off the mould with
thechocolate cremeux on top. Add the vanilla, caramel and
choco-late glaze. Place the chocolate and Isomalt decor in the
centre ofthe dessert.
Vanilla Cremeux
Chocolate Sponge Cake
Almond, Hazelnut and Pine Kernel Crunchy
Golden Leaf
Vanilla, Caramel and Chocolate Glaze
Raspberry and Strawberry gel
Exotic fruits cremeuxRaspberry and Strawberry gelChocolate,
Hazelnut and Caramel Mousse
Chocolate Cremeux
RING OF MYSTERY Entremet glac
Lemon and hazelnut bacio di dama
butter g 50 cane sugar g 50
hazelnut flour g 60 flour g 50
fine pink salt g 1 grated lemon g 10
Knead in a mixer all the ingredients; when they are well
mixed,place the mixture between two thin Silpats, and bake in the
ovenat 160C for 14 minutes. After baking, paint with cocoa
butter.
Madagascar vanilla perfumed semifreddo
pasteurized eggs yolks g 150 sugar g 300 water g 70
dextrose g 40 mascarpone cheese g 370
fresh cream 35% butterfat g 370 Madagascar vanilla pod no. 1
vanilla distillate g 11.5
Whip together mascarpone cheese, cream, vanilla pod inside,and
when the whipping is almost finished, add the vanilla distil-late.
Bring the two mixtures carefully together.
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32www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Raspberry and strawberry coulis
10% sweetened strawberry pulp g 150 10% sweetened raspberry pulp
g 150
inverted sugar g 70 saccharose g 50
dextrose g 10 Kirsch 45% vol. g 30
pectin g 5
Mix saccharose, pectin, dextrose, inverted sugar and a bit
ofstrawberry pulp together; heat in the microwave, add the
re-maining strawberry pulp, and at 25C, pour the kirsch. Use it
toglaze at 18C.
Hazelnut gelato
whole fresh milk g 1,200 fresh cream 35% g 270
dextrose g 55 white cane caster sugar g 260
dehydrated glucose g 52 skimmed milk powder g 98
neutral stabilizer g 12 hazelnut puree g 300
Bring the liquids to 55C and add the powder, previously
mixedtogether. Bring the mixture to 62C, add in the fruit pulp
andcook at 82C.
Mandarin sorbet
10% sweetened mandarin pulp g 1,000 dextrose g 25
white cane caster sugar g 135 dehydrated glucose g 55
fruit neutral stabilizer g 5 water g 115
Chocolate spray mixtureMadagascar vanilla perfumed
semifreddo
Piedmont hazelnut gelato
Orange glaze
Raspberry and strawberry coulis
Chocolate ganache
Mandarin sorbet
Bring the liquids to 55C and add the powder previously
mixedtogether. Bring the mixture to 62C, add in the fruit pulp
andcook at 82C.
Chocolate ganache
white cane sugar g 40 dextrose g 40
water g 300 inverted sugar g 200
gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 10 cocoa g 30
Heat water and inverted sugar at 60C; combine the sugars andthe
cocoa and cook until the temperature of 102C is reached.Add the
gelatine and cool down to 25C. Pour into mould.
Chocolate spray mixture
milk chocolate g 200 dark chocolate g 50
cocoa butter g 150 liposoluble red colour g 20
Mix colouring with cocoa butter, previously melted at 45C:
filter and mix with the two chocolates.
Lemon and hazelnutbacio di dama
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34www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Imagination boxPlated dessert
Dessert n. 1 Iced infusion of Sicilian orange
fresh Sicilian orange juice g 200 orange rinds no. 2
glucose 38 de g 45 white cane sugar g 65
water g 35
Bring the water with the orange rinds and the sugar to
boilingpoint, let it cool then add the orange juice. Pour into the
smallglasses and freeze.
Hot apple cider
mixed apple pulp g 300 liquid sugar g 20
Heat up the pulp with the sugar at 45C. Filter and serve overthe
frozen infusion.
Dessert n. 2 Tonka bean panna cotta
fresh whole milk g 100 glucose 38 DE g 10
gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 4 white chocolate g 100
Blueberry and raspberry salad in vanilla infusion
Tonka beans panna cotta
Lemon-scented red fruit air
Gold leaf
Isomalt decor
Imagination dessertwith dried ice
Mint coulis
Hot apple cider
Iced infusion of orange
Chocolate powder
Mascarpone foam and vanilla
Savoy sponge cake with coffee sauce
cocoa butter g 20 fresh cream 35% g 200
Tonka bean g 0.35
Heat up the milk with the Tonka bean and glucose. At 65C addthe
gelatine and emulsify slowly with the chocolate and the co-coa
butter. Slowly pour the cream and carry on emulsifying.Divide into
portions.
Lemon-scented red fruit air
caster sugar g 69 water g 81
grated lemon rind g 0.4 strawberry pulp g 65 raspberry pulp g
45
gelatine g 6
Bring the syrup with the lemon rind to the boil, blast chill
andadd the pulps and gelatine. Once cold whip and pour in
smallglasses.
Raspberry and blueberry salad in vanilla infusion
raspberries g 100 black blueberries g 100
water g 100 white cane sugar g 120
vanilla pod no. 1
Bring the syrup with vanilla to the boil, blast chill and,
oncecold, pour on the fruits. Keep in the fridge at 4C.
Mint coulis
glucose g 100 water g 50
fresh mint g 15 green food colouring g 2
Prepare an infusion with the fresh mint and water. When
stillboiling, add the glucose and cook until 63Brix. When cold,add
the colouring.
Neutral glaze
white cane sugar g 100 pectin g 15 water g 600
glucose 38 DE g 300 white cane sugar g 900
Mix 100 g of sugar with the pectin and pour it on the hot
waterat 55C. Bring to the boil. Pour the glucose and the
remainingsugar and cook again at 95C.
Orange glaze
neutral glaze g 500 orange pulp g 300
gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 10
orange colour g 2 orange essential oil g 1
Bring gelatine with orange pulp together and cook at66Brix. Add
the gelatine and the essential oil.
Assembly Prepare the first inner part with the vanilla
semifreddo andthe red fruit coulis and put in the blast chiller at
-25C.Prepare the second inner part with the chocolate ganacheand
the mandarin sorbet and put in the blast chiller at -25C. Lastly
fill the silicone mould with the hazelnut gelatoand insert in the
order the two inner parts. Close with thelemon and hazelnut bacio
di dama. Spray the chocolatemixture in the inner part of the sweet
and glaze the outerpart with the orange glaze. Garnish with a sugar
domeand a sugar stylized butterfly.
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36www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
AssemblyPour the red fruit air into the small glass, freeze in
the blast chil-ler, then pour over the panna cotta. Finish with the
red fruit sa-lad and mint coulis.
Dessert n. 3 Savoy sponge cake
egg whites g 250 sugar g 250 flour g 200
starch g 50 egg yolks g 170
Whip the egg whites at 20C while slowly adding the sugar.When
the whites are done, slowly add the yolks. Sift the floursand add
them to the mixture manually using a spatula. Lay themixture in a
baking-tin and bake in the oven at 180C for 12minutes.
Mascarpone foam and bourbon vanilla
mascarpone cheese g 200 fresh cream 35% butterfat g 50
pasteurized egg yolks g 100 white cane sugar g 95 fresh whole
milk g 140
gelatine g 8 Bourbon vanilla pod n. 1/2
Prepare a custard and cook at 82C. Add the gelatine and let
itcool at 35C. Add the mascarpone and the whipped cream mi-xed
together with the vanilla.
Coffee sauce
espresso coffee g 200 white cane sugar g 70
Prepare the coffee with the machine, add the sugar and pourwhile
hot on the chocolate sponge cake.
AssemblyPour in the small glasses by alternating a layer of foam
with oneof coffee-soaked savoy sponge cake.
TEAM ITALY THANKS ITS SPONSORS
From left, Iginio Massari, Gino Fabbri, Rossano Vinciarelli,
BiagioSettepani, Fabrizio Galla and, in front, Roberto
Rinaldini.
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it BoulangeriePiacenza
SIGEP17- 21 january 2009, Rimini
(Pad A3 Stand 015)
14-17 february 2009, Rimini(Pad A3 Stand 135)
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38www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Strawberry gelato
sugar g 320dextrose g 90
glucose syrup g 100neutral g 15
water g 550strawberries g 900
small strawberries g 350orange juice g 30
Mix all the ingredients except fruits and cook at 80C in the
pa-steurizer. Cool and add fruits. Mix and thicken.
Orange gelato
Prepare a base syrup withsugar g 450
dextrose g 30 glucose syrup g 65
neutral g 6 emulsifying agent g 3
vegetable fat g 50 water g 400
SICILIAN DELIGHTSTerra mia
Cook the ingredients at 80C in the pasteurizer and cool. Add
thesyrup
orange juice g 800 lemon juice g 30
water g 120
Thicken.
Assembly
On a layer of traditional sponge soaked in orange liqueur,
spreadout a layer of strawberry gelato followed by an equal layer
of oran-ge gelato. Chill. Remove the cake and cover with
orange-flavouredneutral gelatin.
Santi Palazzolo Cinisi, Palermo
www.pasticceriapalazzolo.comPhoto Salvatore Farina
GELATO
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39
Short pastry
soft flour g 200very fine sugar g 70
butter g 70eggs no. 1
baking ammonia g 3.5
Mix the powders in a mixing bowl; separately soften the
butterand beat the eggs. Add the butter to the powders and
beginkneading. Continue to knead adding the egg a little at a time
un-til you get a smooth mixture that is not greasy. If you can,
avoidkneading by hand.Cover the dough and let it stand for 20
minutes in the refrigera-tor. Then make a disc large enough to line
an 18 cm mould, 4mm thick.
Hazelnut paste
hazelnut kernels g 100caster sugar g 100
water g 40
Knead and work with the roll refiner or cutter.Cover the bottom
of the mould with a 2 mm layer of hazelnutpaste. Use the blade of a
knife on a chopping board to work 250 g ofpreviously drained
courgettes candied in honey syrup. Arrangethese evenly over the
hazelnut paste.
For the rice
Balilla rice g 200orange flower honey g 50Mielar Pepe Bianco g
30
hazelnut paste g 80unrefined sea salt g 3
COURGETTE DELIGHTRice and courgette pie
MIELAR PEPE BIANCO belongs to the Mielar ran-ge, a line of
flavoured preparations made with honey,invented by Corrado Assenza
himself, which are soldin small jars and transparent phials. Among
the availa-ble tastes there are orange, lemon, tangerine,
berga-mot, white pepper, cinnamon, ginger, saffron, redpepper,
cocoa bean, and also the unusual tobacco.
Boil the rice in slightly salted water sweetened with the
honey.Drain the rice while still al dente. Add and mix the Mielar
PepeBianco and the hazelnut paste. When warm, place inside the
bakingdish on top of the candied courgettes. Level off with a
spatula andplace in a 230C oven for 25-30 minutes.Cool in a blast
chiller and remove from the tin with the help of a grilljust as
soon as the rice has become compact.Prior to serving, decorate the
surface of the rice with 15 g of MielarPepe Bianco, making a
central rosette with the courgette slices.
Corrado AssenzaCaff Sicilia, Noto
Photo Farina
Balilla Rice comes through selection from the first variety of
rice histo-rically grown in Italy, which was the sole variety until
a century ago. Thegrains are round and small, and they show a high
absorption and gro-wing power during the cooking process. Its the
best variety for themaking of rice sweets, soups and other
gastronomic specialties, suchas Sicilian arancini, flans,
croquettes, etc.
Sistema Gelato ItalianoA new group trade-mark SistemaGelato
Italiano proposed by theItalian associationof gelato makingmachine
manufacturers(Acomag), aims to promote the exportof Italian goods,
services and knowhowrelated to the world of gelato. The
grouptrademark can be used by all Italiancompanies with at least
five years' ex-perience. Seven sectors have beenshortlisted to be
part of the system:Italian gelato makers' associations (in-cluding
professional Italian associationsabroad); ingredients and compound
in-gredients (raw materials and AIIPA);equipment, furniture and
machines(Acomag); accessories and packaging;sector trade fairs;
sector press; training,consultancy and
communication(www.acomag.it).
NEWSNEWSNEWSNEW
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www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
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40www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Serves 4
potatoes g 400 rabbit legs g 200
flour g 80 DOP Grana Padano cheese g 140
red wine cl 5 onion g 20 carrot g 15
celery stalk g 15bay-leaf no. 1
thyme no. 1 sprigmarjoram no. 1 sprig
Stock liqueur to tastenutmeg to taste
extra virgin olive oil to tastesalt and pepper to taste
Cook the potatoes in plenty of salted water, strain, peel and
mashthem on a wooden board. Add the flour, 70 g of grated
GranaPadano cheese, salt, and nutmeg and knead gently.Roll small
amounts of dough on the board into small salami, cutthem into 2 cm
long pieces, and stripe them rolling them on a forkand pressing
with your thumb. Mince the rabbit meat.Sweat the vegetables and
torn herbs in a casserole with oil, addthe rabbit meat and let it
brown, deglaze with red wine, add someStock and cook on a low heat.
Arrange 40 g of Grana Padanocheese into small heaps on a Silpat
mat, bake in the microwave for25 seconds and shape into cones.
Blanch the gnocchi insalted water and sautin a pan with the
ra-gout. Place them inthe cheese cones,garnish with thymeand grated
GranaPadano cheese.
Recipes from the ICIF
CUISINE
Potato gnocchi with a rabbit ragout
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Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail:
[email protected] Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di
Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444 414
719
Tekno Stamap in cooperation with major companies worldwide is
developing a wide range of new products. It is now present ,
directly or indirectly, in all Countries of the worldTekno Stamap
production range includes manual and automatic sheeters, planetary
mixers, machines for croissant making, lines for puff pastry and
laminated dough ideal for both small bakers and confectioners as
well as for medium-size factories
ge of new
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A dynamic, fl exible and technologically advanced company
Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail:
[email protected] Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di
Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444
4
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42www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
COLD ZABAGLIONE WITH PASSITO WINE
Take off the heat, add 5 g of gelatine, previously softened,
andthe crumbled amaretti cookies. Let it cool.Fold in the whisked
cream, pour the mix into cylindrical mouldsand let it set in the
fridge for 3 hours.Boil 10 cl of wine, let it reduce by 50%, add 2
g of softened ge-latine. Bring the remaining Moscato Passito to a
boil, add 10 g ofgelatine, let it set and cut into diamond
shapes.Melt half the chocolate, add the remaining half and work
witha wooden spoon at 32C; pour into a parchment cone and
de-corate.Remove the semifreddo from the mould, place it in a
plate, gar-nish with chocolate grids, coat with the Moscato Passito
reductionand garnish with gelatine and mint leaves.
ICIFCostigliole dAsti
www.icif.comPhotos Marco Beltramo ICIF
Italian amaretti are small, crunchy,chewy-inside, macaroon-like
cookiesmade with almond flour, egg whites, andsugar.
Serves 4
egg yolks g 90sugar g 25
Moscato Passito wine cl 56dried amaretti cookies g 125
fresh cream g 250gelatine g 17
mint to taste dark chocolate to taste
Add the yolks to the sugar and 25 cl of Moscato Passito,put in a
bain-marie and whisk.
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The machine to launch a new season in your gelato shop
THE GELATO AND PASTRY MACHINE
To learn more about please contact your local distributor.
carpigiani.com
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44 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
With the first Michelin star, the publicationof the book 'Mise
en place',
and the convocation of Identit Golose,Stefano Baiocco takes his
place in the firmament of great stars
Stefano Baiocco and Villa Feltrinelli: he the young, passionate
anddetermined chef; she the majestic, proud and matronly villa
ofGargnano, on the Lago di Garda. An alliance of innovation and
tra-dition each making a statement of its own. In this setting, the
cui-sine of thirty-year-old Baiocco from the Marche is exalted as
isthis almost fairy-tale location. Given his work with big names
onthe international stage Ducasse, Roca, Adri, Gagnaire, Barbot,and
Aduriz Baiocco was appointed executive chef of the GrandHotel Villa
Feltrinelli in 2004. This valuable experience underlinedhis
qualities: precision, professionalism, discipline, modesty,
tena-city, and leadership; it also led to his being awarded the
firstMichelin star. This important recognition is the fruit of a
unique ta-lent, which translates into elegant, clean and almost
sensual co-oking. Baiocco's dishes are a balance of taste, colour
and aromasdictated by his perfectionism and an innate aesthetic
awareness.His care and passion for officinal herbs, which he grows
in a smalldedicated garden, set him apart from the rest with light
and well-balanced works. I met Stefano at Identit
Golose(www.identitagolose.it). He is like his cooking: fresh,
sponta-neous, and mysterious.
Tradition or creativity? Some claim there are two forms of
cuisi-ne: one scientist, the other traditional. Which do you side
with?I'm in the middle. I'm not avoiding the question; it's simply
a cohe-rent and conscious statement about the work I do and the
place Ido it in. It is also a way to keep up to date and never miss
the star-ting gun.
There is a lot of talk about exploring flavours. Are there new
fla-vours to experiment with?Exploration is fundamental if you want
to avoid the risk of fossili-zing the palate. We have a duty to
keep curiosity alive by travellingand discovering new aromas and
flavours. Yet we should never goover the top because I don't like
any form of extreme. What is im-portant is the memory one has of a
flavour. So yes to experimen-tation and the search for new
sensations, only without forgettingour roots and the flavours that
have characterised our cuisine forcenturies.
2007 was crowned with personal success: the Michelin star,
thepublication of your book, and Identit Golose...The funny thing
is that Villa Feltrinelli was in the shadows for years;critics
writing for the leading guides had never taken us into
consi-deration. Now, all of a sudden, everyone is knocking on our
door.Unfortunately, this happens all too often. I have many
colleagueswho are reputable professionals and passionate about
their work,yet they are ignored by the world that 'counts' which
prefers in-stead to speak about the famous.
How important is your Michelin star?When the Guide came out all
hell broke loose: telephone calls,messages, emails, faxes, all
offering their congratulations (somemore sincere than others). The
star for me makes me feel veryproud and satisfied. People who do
not know our world find it dif-ficult to understand its importance.
It sets you apart from the rest,
CUISINE
The chef'smagic
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45
although today you need at least two. It is a recognition that
placesyou one step up the ladder of Italian restauration. In
addition, formany restaurants, perhaps in the provinces, there is a
financial re-turn. I hope the star will bring to Villa Feltrinelli
an even more se-lect clientele that will enjoy both the fine food
and beauty of thisplace.
Why did you decide to write about your experience and knowledge
in a book?I had been considering the idea for some time, but
several yearspassed between thinking about the book and actually
writing it.There are so many things to organise: financial support,
photo-graphy, text proofing and translation, graphic design, and
publica-tion. When you consider that all of this is in addition to
youreveryday work, it is easy to understand just how arduous the
taskwas, albeit satisfying. I tried to come out of my shell with
thisbook. I wanted to make myself known and make people under-stand
the world I live in, my way of thinking and of doing things,without
the pretension of teaching anything to anyone.
You have worked with leading names on the international
stage,and you have just been on a training cour Marbella, at
DaniGarcia's Calima. How important is ongoing training?For almost
ten years, the world of restauration in general, and cui-sine in
particular, has been moving forward at great speed, andmajor
changes are evident. I think it is our duty to keep up withtraining
courses, promotions, meetings and anything else that willhelp us
understand the direction we are moving in. Whether youdecide to
adopt more or less innovative cuisine is a different mat-ter.
Knowledge and awareness come first. It is then up to everyone of us
to decide what is appropriate and what not for the typeof
restaurant, its location, the type of clientele and the
restaurant'sphilosophy.
How do you come up with a menu? Cooking is a means of
communication that lets me convey myemotions. A menu reflects what
I feel.
How important are desserts and small confectionary?They are a
key element of a menu and they follow the same logicof the cuisine.
I do not believe that the latter prevails over confec-tionary, or
vice versa. Instead, I think they are both essential formaking an
evening out at the restaurant a unique experience.Everything, of
course, is helped by an excellent service.
Is the dessert menu created separately to the rest of the
menu?Sweet and savoury travel along parallel tracks. A dessert,
just like astarter or first course, is changed or modified
depending on theseason and on the availability of ingredients. It
is normal that du-ring the warmer months there are light and fresh
dishes, perhapsusing the fruit of the season, fresh herbs and
citrus fruits; heaviermeals are prepared during the winter months.
My desserts are ne-ver too rich in fatty substances or sugars,
which responds to theincreasing importance customer's are giving to
their looks andhealth.
In your cuisine has sweet contaminated savoury, or vice versa?Is
there a point where these two meet, and if yes, what formdoes this
take?There is no real meeting point and I don't even look for one.
I pre-fer to keep the two things separate. As I said earlier, they
have tofollow the same concept and logical thread. Sometimes,
however,there are sweet/savoury influences: chicken liver crme
caramelfor instance, or the use of ingredients which, although
belongingto the savoury world, are used in confectionary herbs,
salt, bal-samic vinegar, and olive oil. Such combinations become
custo-
mary in many cuisines, and pass as 'classics'.
Sweet, savoury, bitter, acid: which do you prefer and how
arethey mixed?I prefer not to use the term mix. All of these
components play apart in my dishes, yet they remain distinct. It is
important that thedish does not have a communion of too many
flavours. This is notto say I do not enjoy creating and
experimenting with combina-tions, but just that I am not fond of
extreme flavours. I do not likebitter tastes, or those which are
too sweet and nauseating. I loveacidic and spicy flavours,
especially savoury ones. The merethought of a grain of salt makes
my mouth water.
What could you not do without in the kitchen?My team. I could do
without any other ingredient or utensil andmake up for it in some
other manner, but the rapport I have withmy team comes first.
Without them I would not be able to do thesame type of cuisine in
the manner that I do it. Also, it is thanks tosome of them that I
am able to develop new ideas. Finally, I like tobe able to share
our efforts and passions.
What importance does dressage and mise en place have in
thepreparation of a dish?The term 'mise en place' also refers to
cleanliness, rigour, profes-sionalism and organisation. These are
key elements not so muchfor the creation of a recipe but more for
our work in general. It allbegins with the simplest of things: a
cook will never be organisedif in the morning he leaves home with
his wardrobe in a mess,wears a dirty outfit, finds blunt and
misaligned knives in the dra-wer, has his storeroom in a mess and a
poorly stacked refrigera-tor.
Do you have any dreams?Yes many, but I prefer to keep them to
myself. I am told that if youtalk about them they won't come
true!
Monica Onnis
www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Stefano Baiocco
Villa Feltrinelli on the Lago di Garda.
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46www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Mise en place
Potato crunchS