Pasta All'Arrabbiata (Outstanding Pasta Sauce)

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Keywords: Pasta ¦ Italian Cuisine ¦ One pot meal ¦ Affordable gourmet ¦ Traditional

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By request of a reader, one of the most popular Southern Italian pasta

sa uces ever. Simple, affordable, healthy, delicious.

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Dramatis Personae, clockwise from the top left: hard pecorino, durum

wheat bronze-extruded grooved macaroni, anchovy fillets, scotch bonnet

chile, marjoram, onions, garlic. Lead role: peeled tomatoes. Tonight,

the play is Arrabbiata, a very popular, affordable and healthy Southern

Italian pasta sauce. Done properly, this is heaven on a plate with very

little calories attached. Make sure you use pecorino, a hard Italian sheep

milk. There are dozens of pecorinos and you'll have to find one that

agrees with you. I like them hard.

Pasta all'arrabbiata [ah-rah-BYAH-tah] means angry pasta, in the sense of

a dish that would have turned crimson red and volatile, like a scorned






c an woman. t s a tomato sauce w t c es, serve w t pecor no.

Italians often use dried chile flakes ( peperoncino) but I prefer fresh

chilies. The strongest we can buy here is the notoriously inflamatory

Scotch bonnet, one of the hottest chilies in the world, scoring 1-300,000

Scoville units. Why do I say this? Well, How much chile do I need FX?

really depends on the chile you are using as much as on how much you

are used to eat.






If using a strong chile, make sure NEVER TO TOUCH it with your fingers,

or you'll spend the night thinking red fire ants have crawled up your

pants. Just use gloves or a fork and knive which you'll immediately wash.

For 3 portions I used only the tiny bit cut in the picture above, thinly

cubed.






Peel and crush a couple garlic cloves and dice one onion.







Fry the garlic in a little olive oil in a hot pan. Some people remove the

garlic after it has flavored the oil. You'd definitely want to do that if you

left it turn brown as it becomes bitter. But I don't brown it and leave it in

the sauce.

Add the onion, anchovy and chile. The anchovy fillet is not used in every

recipe but gives an amazing hit-me-back taste. You won't need to add

any salt if using those. Continue to fry over high heat until it starts to

brown.







Deglaze with a glass (half a cup) of red wine and scrape the bottom to

dissolve any browned onion that would have stuck to the pan.







In go the tomatoes ...







... then some marjoram/oregano.

Simmer for at least 20 minutes. Some people like large bits of tomato in

their sauce, probably to emphasize their use of actual tomatoes. I prefer

to mash them to a pulp.








Fill your largest pot with water, add a bit of salt and NO oil. Bring to a

boil, then cook the pasta until 1 minute undercooked ...

... and remove to a dish until the sauce is ready.








Combine sauce and pasta.









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Copyright FXcuisine 2012 - all rights reserved.

If you do this recipe at home please let me know how it worked for you

by submitting a comment or send me a picture if you can. Thanks!

203 COMMENTS#1 Comment by James Wang on: 14/04/2009 Anchovy?!Red wine?!Garlic *and* onion?!

Francois...I love you man, but this is too much!

FX's answer → Yes I guess this one is not served often in Benares, in Buddhisttemples or in Yeshivas - most of the ingredients are not compatible with diets for people leading a life of contemplation!

#3 Comment by Jay on: 14/04/2009Bonjour François!

Indeed one of my favorite sauces! And the Anchovi really gives it that distinct flavor!Thanks FX. I always enjoy reading your extravagant meals from all over the world, thisone however I nice and easy to quickly make when there isnt much time and money athand ... a great meal to quickly fix in the evening!So thanks and greetings from Hamburg!

Jay

FX's answer → Indeed Jay, this is such an affordable dish, money-wise, time-wiseand calorie-wise! Hope you'll get to try it!

#5 Comment by Rosa on: 14/04/2009 A splendid pasta dish! I could eat that now!

Cheers,

Rosa

FX's answer → It definitely gets the blood flowing and gets the diners sweating.Great with a strong red wine as a one-pot dinner!

#7 Comment by Javi Recetas on: 14/04/2009Como se que te manejas con el español no usaré mi nefasto inglés :)

La receta está genial, a mi me encanta esta salsa y quería decirte que el último de tusvídeos es sencillamente una maravilla.

Un saludo cocinero.

FX's answer → Un cordial saludo Javi! Sabes que yo tambien soy un Fransisco Javier? Soy muy feliz que te gusta mi video y receta de arrabbiata!

#9 Comment by Alan on: 14/04/2009

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I'm going to make this subito! like questa sera! Err, where do I get pecorino in Manila???

Thanks Francois, at least this recipe won't make me feel guilty about calories

FX's answer → Alan you could perhaps substitute Pecorino with Parmesan, it would definitely make for a different dish but that would work. Otherwise there are a few hard sheep cheeses from France or Switzerland that might work. Or you can forgetabout the cheese altogether and enjoy calorie-free (almost!) pasta.

#11 Comment by Mitchell on: 14/04/2009Hi, I noticed you did not dice the garlic before you added it to the oil. What cases would you dice and not dice garlic? I always thought that dicing garlic would allow it to give theoil a garlic flavor faster, so it would be useful for stir-fry. But would adding whole garliccloves give the dish a more subtle garlic flavor as it is slower to release flavor?

Great article you have, I could always use another spicy recipe; especially if it has pasta.

Mitchell

FX's answer → Sure it would, but crushing the garlic under a knife blade is moremacho and Italian, and is more common in this type of rustic cooking. Although youcould certainly dice your garlic and get the same or better result, crushing it is morein line with the spirit of the dish. I recommend you try it once to see how fun it is,

then decide which way you like best for the future!

#13 Comment by Corinne on: 14/04/2009Wow you are just ...............extravagantly.extraordinary,generously,remarkablechef/person with great taste, a lot of

class, as well as an outstanding photographer!!!! since dicovering your website I feel Ihave won the lottery!!

I love good food ,colour,flavours, vibrant strong people,nature, animals,Life, and your website!

Thanks for great recipes and hours of browsing! Corinne

FX's answer → Thanks Corinne, I guess the warmth of this sauce got under your skin!I hope you get to try this extraordinary dish. Happy reading!

#15 Comment by Maya on: 14/04/2009Mmmmm... I can almost smell it from here. :)In my humble opinion, the simplest dishes are often the tastiest. Here you reminded meof my experience with one *evil* chili (homegrown!) a couple of years ago. I'll never forgetthat day. Seriously, people, listen to FX and do as he says! Amazing photos... I don't find words.

Greetings from a faithful reader.

FX's answer → Thank you Maya, yes terrible things can happen with chilies handled with bare hands. Amazing what it can teach us about oneself! By the way I love your marble eggs on your blogs, I have been meaning to do this for ages.

#17 Comment by ali on: 14/04/2009vey nice

FX's answer → Thank you

#19 Comment b chi onade on: 14/04/2009

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Simple ingredients standing alone but they make such a symphony in the mouth whencombined. Apply this tasty sauce to mussels and you have Mussels Fra Diavolo (mussels ala the Devil).

Love those big pasta tubes too... I favor the larger cuts of pasta.

<3 Chiffonade

FX's answer → Sounds like a lovely variation, you could omit the anchovies and replace their hit-me-back and saltiness contribution with the mussels juice!

#21 Comment by iamnotachef on: 14/04/2009 A lovely dish, and particularly good photographs!

FX's answer → Thanks, I had to fight with my camera and change lens a couple timeson this one!

#23 Comment by Biz on: 14/04/2009Normally you seem to be such a purist you hit the nails right on their heads as far asauthenticity. But this is just too far off the map to be "all'arrabbiata". I'm certain that thisis delicious, but shallots, marjoram, and if you want to be really fussy, even thehabanero, completely change the flavors of this dish into something that doesn't resemble

the original much. Of course, no body who isn't Italian or a purist of Italian cuisine willcare or notice. This dish should really only have tomatoes, fresh or canned, garlic, hot pepper and basil. If it were cooked a bit longer than normal you might be able to get away with some onion, although it's not typical.

You were getting so many compliments, I thought it necessary to inject a dose of criticism! :)

FX's answer → I used onions, not shallots although I admit the picture can induceyou in error, but the text is clear. Basil has too subtle flavors to go with such a hotsauce and in my opinion marjoram or oregano go much better. Some recipes call for parsley. Now for the peppers, well I think Italians use dried pepper flakes which arenot always the best ingredients. With the minute amount of fresh pepper I used, only the capsaicin shows through, and the inherent flavor of the pepper cannot be

perceived. Is there an official recipe for arrabbiata from a club like the Amatricedell'Amatriciana? I see many variations of this recipe in Italy, some using Parmesanmixed with Pecorino, some add olives or even porcini. I stick by my guns.

#25 Comment by cookery on: 14/04/2009Careful FX, keep cooking like this and when your time finally comes you may find yourself reincarnated as a Sicilian Mama!!!

FX's answer → Or a Scotch Bonnet Pepper perhaps?

#27 Comment by Allon Bogin on: 14/04/2009 Although "Arrabbiata" means angry in Italian, this recipe makes me VERY calm. Through

this article, I can acctualy smell and taste it. Yet, I am going to prepare it (just withoutthe anchovy). Thank you

FX's answer → Allon, do you not like anchovies or is this just not available whereyou live? If you just don't like it, I recommend you try with a tiny piece just to humor me, it's gonna disappear into the sauce but enhance its flavor in a mysterious way!

#29 Comment by Ivan Seligman on: 14/04/2009Hi!

Just a minor point. The actual fruit is called a "chile". The stew like dish cooked up in

http://iamnotachef.com/

http://www.myspace.com/therealchiffonade





Texas and other spots is "chili".

I ate a slice of Scotch Bonnet by mistake, and steam shot out both my ears!

Ivan

FX's answer → Thanks for the correction, hell how I miss my editor Beatrice thesedays! The steam out of your ears after eating raw Scotch Bonnet Chili is just a foretaste of a deeper hurt that is bound to follow within hours!

#31 Comment by Laura on: 14/04/2009This looks so delicious! Thanks for breaking it down for us. An Italian friend would makethis all the time (sans anchovy) -- it was so good and simple. His Mom's was even better if possible. I never learned from him how to make it because he loved to do it and did it soregularly. It is such a satisfying simple supper.

FX's answer → Oh but the anchovy disappears totally into the sauce and you won'tknow it's there until you start wondering where the delicate hit-me-back taste in thebackground is coming from. Really, do try it, it's like the chicken livers, they are pretty horrible on their own but bring Bolognese to a whole new level, without ever being present individually in the taste.

#33 Comment by Biz on: 14/04/2009I'm not sure why I said shallots, duhhhh, and then I forgot to include red wine and anchovies in my protest. Anyway. As far as the basil, I feel the opposite, I think oregano istoo powerful, and it really isn't used so much in Italian pasta dishes, and Marjoram evenless so. Herbs really aren't even essential to the dish really. At it's essence I think it's justa good clean tomato base with a hint of garlic and the star is the pungent dose of hot pepper. I like the flavor of dried peppers, and I think you're right, most italians will usethem in this dish. They can be bland sometimes though and I agree using fresh improvesthe flavor. I like a bit of both personally. I just thought the Habanero has too particular a flavor that would overpower the dish but your right I suppose, such a small dose shouldn'tbe too evident. No, I don't believe there is an official recipe for this dish but I think it's just understood by most as being a certain way because it's so simple. I don't think thecheese is all that critical, although you're right, pecorino goes better and is moretraditional. These days most southern Italians don't even use it anywhere near as much as

past times, preferring Grana or Parmigiano, which is kind of ashame. At any rate, to eachhis own! I just think most southern Italians of 'less traveled' background would look at yousideways if you served this to them and called it Arrabiata! :)

FX's answer → Yes, I checked my slow food books and most use only olive oil,tomatoes, garlic, fresh hot chile pepper and ... parsley. We do stand corrected! Ithink we touch here the essence of the dichotomy in Italian cuisine. On the one hand,recipes are extremely flexible and chefs have a hard time writing down exactquantities and each family tweaks a traditional recipe its own way. On the other

hand, when an outsider (even another Italian for 50 miles away) speaks or writesabout a dish that is symbolic of a part of Italy, all hell breaks lose and the room fillsinstantly with pot-bellied ayatollah who each draw more exacting stipulations as towhat the True Dish should be. Obviously, we end up in the most spartan minimalism.

#35 Comment by Anand on: 14/04/2009Oh ..the photos jumped out at me.. Very well done indeed!

The knife is missing this time around though :)

FX's answer → Thanks, don't you agree that the red come out nicely against theblack background?

#37 Comment by Avi on: 14/04/2009





,Thank you for this simple and brilliant recipe.Maybe i missed it, but how many tomatoes did you use, what kind and were they pealed? Thanks,

FX's answer → Avi, I used one can of peeled tomatoes for 3 portions.

#39 Comment by Biz on: 14/04/2009

Well said FX! Now, what about an article on Napolitan Soffritto? I've only seen it, never eaten it, but it looks really delicious and I think it would/must be right up your alley?

FX's answer → Oops, I am not such a fan of offal. Have you seen the shops that sellonly tripes in Napoli? I mean, this is enough to send some of my readers to theEmergency Unit at their local hospital.

#41 Comment by LC Neill on: 14/04/2009 Another wonderful recipe. I wonder if I could use habanero peppers in place of ScotchBonnet?

FX's answer → Absolutely!

#43 Comment by Randall on: 14/04/2009Wonderfully done, FX! I really do think that the simplest ingredients make for the bestmeals. I hope you don't mind, but I stole your beautiful final photo of the finished product for my PC desktop! There's nothing like seeing a beautiful pasta dish on your screen every time you turn on your computer!

FX's answer → Well done Randall, and I hope you summon the dish out from your screen and into your kitchen some day!

#45 Comment by Another Jake on: 15/04/2009Magnificent! Is there another cheese I can substitute? My selection of cheeses is limited to what my local cheese shop has to offer... I also wonder if you would be so kind as tooffer us a decent Hungarian goulash recipe?

FX's answer → Jake if you can't find pecorino you can use Parmesan - very different,but equally good.

#47 Comment by r-Q on: 15/04/2009FX,

this is something you can do with the remainings of your habaneros. We use it in Mexico toeat with Cochinita Pibil or any variety of tacos. But I recommend you to mix it withanything. Be brave to try "interracial" food. Possibly invented in the Yucatan peninsula.

Slice the habanero and mix it with sliced red onions.Squeeze the juice of 3 or 4 limes (the more the better). Add a little bit of oregano.Let it rest for a night or two in the refrigerator.

By the way, you have any recommendations to maintain your knives ? How to sharpenthem ? I am obsessed with the sharpness of mine but always fail to do it right and I getirregular edges. I've practiced a lot.

Incredible pictures and very nice articles.

FX's answer → Thanks! I am usually not too keen too leave sliced onions around,even in the fridge, for more than 15 minutes as they act like sponges for bacteria...but I might try this.

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For knives it depends on the metal of your blade, you can field-sharpen them with a"fusil", that long round metal pin, but from time to time they need a little one-to-one with a grindstone.

#49 Comment by chef4cook on: 15/04/2009 Anchovies!!! I love em in sauces like this.

FX's answer → Yes they really enhance the flavor of the sauce, don't they?

#51 Comment by Oliver Stanton on: 15/04/2009You mention that this wonderful pasta dish is "healthy".The science definitely supports that assertion!I recently returned from a four day medical conference in Napa cosponsored by Harvard Medical School and the Culinary Institute of America entitled "Healthy Kitchens, Healthy Lives" and the Mediterranean diet (circa 1960's) is without dispute dramatically morehealthy than most other diets (and there appear to be multi-factorial scientifically studied reasons for this). Interestingly, this diet is not a low fat diet (up to 40% of calories come from fat, as compared to other healthy diets such as a regional Japanesediet where only 10% of calories are from fat); however, the fat is mostly monounsaturated (olive oil) and polyunsaturated (other vegetable oils) and very low on saturated fats(animal fats). Most of the protein comes from legumes (pulses), whole grains, nuts and

occasional cheeses/eggs with the rest coming from preferably "no legs" (fish, hence thebenefit of omega 3/6 fatty acids: the course emphasized that omega 6 fatty acids arebeneficial and statements talking about a 3/6 ratio are completely bogus) ahead of "twolegs" (poultry) and lastly "four legs" (beef, pork, lamb etc.).For the first time since reliable records have been kept today's children in the US areanticipated to have a lower life expectancy than their parents because of the deleteriouseffects of obesity. Studies have shown that a Mediterranean diet is well tolerated by Americans (probably because it is not low in fat and it is fundamentally delicious!) and can produce permanent weight loss. Finally, research has concluded that 30 minutes of daily exercise is necessary for permanent weight loss but it does't need to be vigorous and can be as basic as walking: furthermore, amazingly, this 30 minutes can be accomplished in three 10 minute sessions during the day which is a very doable prospect. So, this reciperesonates well!I really enjoyed hearing about your trip to London, especially your visit to the cheese

store.Keep the recipes coming.Oliver.

FX's answer → Thanks Oliver for sharing these captivating results from such aninteresting conference! And this is right on the mark as I have started myself walkinga full hour every day and turning towards a Mediterranean diet myself! Indeed with

little fat but the olive oil, and the subjectively healthy-feeling effect of thecapsacain, this dish really does feel healthy. Compared to Amatriciana or Carbonarawhich incorporate massive amounts of pig fat and eggs it's a world of difference.

#53 Comment by Richard on: 15/04/2009Hi fx and other chilli fans!

When preparing scotch bonnets I rub my hands in a little veg oil before handling. I amcareful not to get too much hand contact with the chilli and as soon as they aretransferred to a dish (so that they can be added to the cooking without further contact) Ithen wash my hands very well.

The oil acts as a barrier. I have never had any problems. I seem to recall that I heard this from a Caribbean cook many years ago.

NOT guaranteed to save your delicate organs from the fiery pit of hell but you might wantto tr it out o interest!





I cooked a lovely putanesca the other day with very fresh ingredients and it was a far cry from the crappy woody black olive and woody anchovy mess you get in most restaurants. Arrabbiata is also a favourite and so will try this recipe in the week.

All the best

Richard

FX's answer → Thanks Richard, good tip! I don't like too much having my hands oiled though, and use only a fork and knife to cut those nasty chilies. Tonight I'll try thesame recipe with mussels or vongole, that should work fine too!

#55 Comment by ND on: 15/04/2009Hey FX, don't listen to that guy Ivan—he's only an American, after all! (: In real English, it'scalled a "chilli," with a double-l ("chile" and "chili" are both acceptable, but do represent adeviation from the standard). I'm a fiend for these things, and I grow a few varieties thatwould make that Scotch Bonnet seem tame by comparison. Maybe I can send you some, if you think they'd make it through Customs?

FX's answer → Fresh chillis are a pain through the mail, they end up wilted like my Scotch Bonnet above, but if you have dried ones I'd be very pleased of course! I'vebeen a subscriber of Fiery Foods for years, it's an American magazine about BBQ and

chillis, so I should know how to spell it by now!

#57 Comment by Biz on: 15/04/2009Wow, I've been a subscriber for a couple years but for some reason I never noticed thatyou hadn't done any offal recipes, but I always figured you were an offal lover. Yes, I lovethe tripe stalls, YUMMY! These same tripe stalls are where they sell the prepared Soffritto Napoletano. Oh well, more offal for me!

FX's answer → My fondness of offal stops at fish and chicken guts I'm afraid!

#59 Comment by Candace Snook on: 15/04/2009This looks delightful! I've never done an arrabbiata at home before. I've always thought of

it as “just” a spicy tomato sauce, but this gives it a simple singular elegance that I'm goingto have to revisit.I’ve never had much trouble with touching capsaicin though, well.... Not on my fingersanyway. Somehow I always manage to stick my finger in my eye whenever I’m using any peppers of any sort. Even if hands are washed and hours have passed, it still stingsterribly. Let’s hope I never get my hands (or eye) on a Bhut Jolokia!

Thanks for yet another wonderful photo/food essay!

FX's answer → Thanks Candace, I love it so much in fact that I redid this yesterday with a bag of vongole thrown in for good measure. Extraordinary!

#61 Comment by emiglia on: 16/04/2009Ooh! I'm excited about this one. Arrabbiata is by far my favorite pasta sauce, and I'm sure

your recipe is amazing.

FX's answer → It is really extraordinary, light, cheap and you just can't stop eatingit until everything has gone!

#63 Comment by Alisa on: 16/04/2009Hello FX - what a great recipe - I specifically got proper bronze extruded rigatoni (btw what is the difference to ordinary pasta?) - it all worked beautifully. Thank you for such alovely dinner.

' -

http://www.tomatokumato.com/





than soft-wheat pasta, and has a characteristic bite instead of the boiled towel feeling of pasta made with regular wheat. As for bronze extrusion it gives the pasta awonderfully porous surface that sucks the sauce up so that its wrapped in flavor instead of seeing the sauce slip back into the plate. A world of difference!

#65 Comment by Maykal on: 16/04/2009Salutari,

I'm a big fan of making my own pasta and never touch the dried stuff anymore. I regularly make my own ribbon-type and packet-type pastas but I've only once tried making my owntube-types - an interesting effort involving a floured pencil...it kind of works.

Do you have the equipment to make the tubular pastas in your dishes? Decent pasta ishard to come by here in Romania, despite it's Latin language and proximity to Italy. Is thebronze extrusion kit you mention readily available in other countries?

Pofta buna!

FX's answer → Sure, it's great to make your own tubular pasta. You can see how Imake it with the Kenwood Kitchen Machine in many of my article, just click on thetag "Homemade Pasta". It's a really great piece of kit. And don't miss my article onGarganelli, also made with a sort of comb and pencil. Have fun!

#67 Comment by J-C on: 16/04/2009Great recipe and the anchovies are a great addition. A word about the spelling of chilli:both the Oxford Dictionary and Merriam-Webster list all 3 spellings as acceptable but chiliis the preferred spelling of both, and the fruit is native American, albeit it Meso- American. Chilli is from Nahuatl (Aztec)and the Spanish adopted it as chilli and chile.They named Chile for the peppers. Chili con Carne is proper name of the dish commonly called chili, because of Mexicancall the peppers chili, at least in the North. Scotch Bonnetand Thai Birdseye are 2 of the hottest peppers but the heat depends on the clone and where they are grown.

FX's answer → Thanks for the clarification JC!

#69 Comment by needham1959 on: 16/04/2009The compatibility of anchovy does not surprise me. One of the best things I ever ate was arestaurant's version of veal cacciatore here in Massachusetts, USA in the late 1970s. Idetected what I thought was both Worcestershire sauce and anchovy flavoring the sauce poured on the veal scallopines. I realize Worcestershire sauce does contain anchovy but I

could tell additional anchovy (perhaps in paste form) was included. Not long after that, Idiscovered a veal cacciatore recipe in one of the Late Alfredo Viazzi's books that indeed included both Worcestershire sauce and anchovy. So François, I have two questions for you:

1) Do the anchovy fillets completely disappear into the sauce during cooking, withoutneeding to mince them or pound them into paste?

2) Could you please define what a "hit-me-back" taste is?

Merci!--

FX's answer → Yes, the anchovy fillets totally disappear into the sauce, no questionabout that. Hit me back is the best translation I found for French "goût de reviens-y",meaning one of those dishes with a lingering and extremely pleasant aftertaste thatkeep bringing you back to the pot for more and more ... until there is none left!

#71 Comment by kurzhaar on: 17/04/2009Hi Francois,





Lovely photos as always! On the subject of chiles (which seems to be the most widely accepted spelling in the US for the fruit...based I think on the Spanish word), it's not justdifference in heat that distinguish the different types, most do have flavors peculiar tothe variety. I find habaneros and scotch bonnets to have a fruity and sometimes almost floral taste (plus of course intense heat!), which is quite different, say, from the"greener" or more vegetal taste of fresh poblanos. I love chiles and eat them in many ways from Mexican to Thai to Indian to things of my own invention. Growing heirloom or landrace vegetables is a hobby of mine and I have grown several varieties over the years-- four kinds of habaneros, two kinds of cayenne, paprika types, Italian frying pepper types,

poblanos, jalapenos, chiltepins, "Bulgarian Carrot".... They taste quite different fromeach other.

FX's answer → Yes but for really strong chilies like Scotch Bonnet you can't really taste the flavor all that much such in the intensity of the heat!

#73 Comment by Candace on: 17/04/2009Sorry FX, one more thing... I was just wondering what your take was on anchovy paste? Isthefish finer than the paste? Personally I find it a little too one-dimensionally fishy but I was wondering what your takewas on the paste? Thanks!-Candace

FX's answer → Candace, I am not one for bought paste, you are never too impressed when seeing how such ingredients are actually made. Perhaps you could pound a few anchovy fillets in a mortar instead?

#75 Comment by Helena on: 17/04/2009Wow, thanks for sharing. This recipe brings back so many memories!

This was like comfort food for me. Growing up, I spent a lot of time catching up with a friend I seldom see over a good arrabbiata in a specific restaurant. We both seem to cravethe arrabbiata there, so eating there was almost like a biweekly girlhood ritual.

Their version had seafood, bacon, mushroom and a green spinach pasta, but the baseingredients were the same. Not that we cared, but I guess that can be considered a

healthy dish if the healthier spinach cancelled out the bacon. ;)

It was a very warming dish though. Seeing this recipe just brought back memories of anentire phase in life and the good conversation we had in that restaurant. :)

Well ... I had a flashback of that set of memories, and memories of an ex-chef I briefly went out with who never did send me his arrabbiata recipe. :P

I tweaked this recipe for dinner tonight and the results were yum! For people who liketheir food strong, mashing up garlic is definitely the way to go to get the flavour out.

Regarding offal, in small quantities, I think tripe in Vietnamese pho, and fish guts (roe /sushi) and duck guts (French country style) is nice.

FX's answer → Helena I am glad this little recipe brought back such pleasantmemories!

#77 Comment by Brandy on: 17/04/2009Yum! What a lovely dish! The quality of your ingredients is always so high, I'm sure thetaste is as wonderful as the pictures!

Whew, Scottish Bonnet, you like it hot! LOL, I'd use an Anaheim chile, I'm a fire wimp as I get older!





FX's answer → Yes but I used only a wee bit of Scotch Bonnet!

#79 Comment by cookery on: 17/04/2009FX, I made this last night with great success--it's the best of Italian cooking: so simple, yetso amazingly delicious. I forgot the wine though... How important is that touch of wineto enhancing this kind kind of sauce? Does white wine work?

FX's answer → Cooked wine transforms into glycerin, sugar and acetic acid if my memory serves me right - much of the rest disappears. I add this to deglaze whatever

is stuck to the bottom of the pan, but you could just use water and tomatoes. Whitewine is fine of course!

#81 Comment by lazydoctor on: 17/04/2009Hey francois, I thought you didn't liked spicy food, there's not much of it around your blogand the lack of mexican recipes led me to believe you disliked it :D

Any chance we'll see your skills with other spicy recipes? I love spicy!

FX's answer → Oh no I love chilis all right, and read every issue of Fiery Foods fromcover to cover. You might like article #18 although the pictures show that my camerahas come a long way since then! I have loooooads of books on Mexican and Indiancooking but can't get really fresh ingredients for Mexican cooking. Perhaps I should do

more Indian.

#83 Comment by Melanie on: 18/04/2009This looks wonderful, and might just be dinner tonight. I think I have everything in my pantry, excepting the scotch bonnet, so I will have to go with pepper flakes . . .

Thanks for such a simple, inexpensive sauce.

FX's answer → I hope it worked well for you if you tried it!

#85 Comment by nils on: 19/04/2009It was the first recip of you I ever tried myself.Sadly I couldn't get any pecorino or scotch bonnet chile, so I substituted it with parmesan

and cayenne chili peppers.Fantastic taste none the less and I guess I'll try many of your recips in the future

FX's answer → Well done Nils!

#87 Comment by Al on: 22/04/2009The "hit-me-back" qualities from the anchovy is no lie. My guest described it as "so more-ish", which is basically the same thing. Every one should try this with anchovy, even if they aren't an anchovy fan (I am, but a non-fan loved it).

FX's answer → Thanks a lot for your feedback Alistair, indeed more-ish it is! And notMoorish as the dish originates in Italy and not Spain!

#89 Comment by Tom on: 23/04/2009Love your work... Are you on / considered Twitter?

Tom (@tebailey)

FX's answer → Thanks! Not really but I could see the attraction ("I am filming themaking of 50kg of smoked sausage in a century-old butcher shop on Lake Geneva" etc...)

http://from1scratch.blogspot.com/





#91 Comment by Free on: 25/04/2009This was soooo good! Thanks for another easy recipe for unexpected-lazy-summerdays- guests. I will sure make this over and over =)

FX's answer → I've made it 3 times myself since the article, twice with sea shells!

#93 Comment by English-elf on: 25/04/2009Great site. Most of the mistakes you make with your English don't bother me, but

>very little calories

is a real stinker. Don't worry as a lot of English speakers get this wrong. But it should be'very few calories' as calories are countable.

Thanks and keep up the good work,

English-elf

FX's answer → English elf, you did not leave an email address, but if you are seriousabout English, know that I am seriously needed a serious English editor to help meremove the maaaaaaany typos in my articles. Don't hesitate to contact me if you wishto offer a little help!

#95 Comment by matt1982 on: 26/04/2009Excellent recipe.

I was recommended to your site from a friend and can safely say it is now in my bookmarks. The photos are excellent and really help give life to the article.

As for anchovy I would of never thought of that.

I will be making this for my dinner tomorrow night.

Many thanks

FX's answer → Glad you liked it Matt!

#97 Comment by Jennifer on: 27/04/2009

FX., I enjoy both your articles and your photos, but these photos are especially wonderful.They remind me of the food porn daily site. They are a great mix of color, texture and composition. As always thanks for sharing!

FX's answer → Thanks Jennifer!

#99 Comment by Xavier on: 27/04/2009This sauce has made its way to my kitchen tonight for a rapid supper and a few glasses of wine. Although I am used to simmer tomato based sauces, it is always good to challengehis habits. It worked very well but I missed the "angry pasta" effect. I have to recalibratemy use of chile to get it. And by the way the quantity of anchovies too. To the pointwhere you can taste it but not suspect it I may say. I hope so to turn this nice and humblesauce into an humble and memorable one. Thanks again for sharing. X.

FX's answer → I think some simmering is useful to rid the tomatoes of their acidity. As for the chile and anchovy, you will only get the quantity right once you haveexceeded your mark!

#101 Comment by Tony H. on: 28/04/2009I think I have made this now at least four times. First I didn't have anchovies, so

http://www.leedskitchens4u.co.uk/





substituted with sardines...not so good, also don't over do the red wine..it needs balancenot drowning. When I tell the guests afterwords that it was anchovies for the umarmi favor, they almost get whip lash. This dish accompanied with the Normandy Apple Pie,you can't go wrong. Good work FX!

FX's answer → Oh you can omit the red wine altogether. Yesterday I made myself some bigoli with whole wheat flour and a traditional sauce made from sardines, oliveoil (not the one in the can!) and garlic. Delicious.

#103 Comment by Tom on: 28/04/2009First of all I'd like to say that I absolutely LOVE your site!

I know italian purists would stagger when I make this suggestion, but do you think onecould replace the anchovies by a drop of asian fish sauce to get the "hit-me-back-taste"? I don't like fish, and the fish sauce makes it psychologically easier for me :)

FX's answer → Tom, famously-handsome British chef Heston B. does use such tricksin his "bolognese" and I think you'll trigger more than a stagger from Italian purists.This being said the Romans used a lot of garum, fermented fish guts, in their sauces,so if this works to your satisfaction, you can still claim a much older tradition in casesomebody snobs you!

#105 Comment by Troy on: 30/04/2009Great recipes and superb pictures! You also look cute in your pictures cause you're sosmiley.Cheers!

FX's answer → Smiley Foodies - that's me!

#107 Comment by Dawn Smith on: 02/05/2009Wow! that pasta dish sounds delicious...brilliant photo story...i love ur presentation...iwanna try it..right away i'm gonna get the ingredients from www.myethnicworld.com and try it....thanks.

#108 Comment by jmz on: 06/05/2009hey! where are you??? we miss your stuff!

FX's answer → Well, I'm shooting video and it takes an awful long time to getsomething presentable, but hold on and you'll be rewarded for your patience!

#110 Comment by Louise on: 15/05/2009I have had this dish many times fx, funny when I was a child, my grandmother would hidethe a'lice (anchovy) or else we would not eat it. Not scorned, but she was sure a red faced Sicilian grandmother! Thanks for the memories. I really should make this meal when I visitmy grandchildren next week. At least once:) Gorgeous Photos!!!

FX's answer → Thanks Louise and good luck with your grandchildren if you cookthem this dish!

#112 Comment by Marc on: 24/05/2009Francois, video is very time consuming! Maybe you should aim to do very few of them per year and concentrate more on the written articles. Unless you are having great fun editing(which usually wears off quickly) your written articles are extremely good as well. Frommy experience photo editing get easier and faster with time but video not.

#113 Comment by gourmet on: 28/05/2009Wooow, the Recipe i know already, but the Pictures are soooo great, wonderful! Do youuse an Macroobjective ore something. Im just a bloodie beginner with that, hoping you can

http://www.gourmet-blog.de/

http://monthsofediblecelebrations.blogspot.com/





Greets from Cologne...

FX's answer → Oh yes I use all sort of lenses, you need one that focuses real closelike the Nikkor 60mm f2.8 or Sigma 17-70 HSM macro, and of course goooooood light!

#115 Comment by w on: 01/06/2009Please stick to the written + photo post they are simply wonderful.I don't think video would capture it as well as previous posts.Can I make a request/suggestion? How about a Calamari Fritti post? Everytime I try tomake anything squid I mess it up. Also I love the travel posts they are addictive!!

FX's answer → Well glad to hear they are wonderful, but you'll have to humor meand let me show you that the videos can be just as good as stills because that's thedirection I am taking now. For the calamari unfortunately we only get the deep- frozen crap here, so we don't cook them too often. Sorry!

#117 Comment by Karen on: 02/06/2009FX, where are you? I am getting old, my children are growing up, soon I will have no oneto cook your marvellous dishes for, and yet you do not return to us...We miss you :O(

FX's answer → Karen, no worry, I shall be back in the flesh and in video quite soon!

No time to write photo articles because of filming season now, but it should be worththe wait!

#119 Comment by Troy on: 03/06/2009 Are you alive??

FX's answer → Yes, alive and kicking, just too busy shooting film to post any still pictures!

#121 Comment by anm on: 04/06/2009Hi Francois , you should do more pic based posts.They have a timeless quality to them and updates where more often :)

FX's answer → Yes but you see I'm not paid to do this, so my site is run on the basisof wether I feel like posting another stills article or shoot video, and right now Ishoot video. It's like a TV serie you really like, once a season is over, you need to waita couple month to get the new season. Or the next Harry Potter book, people had towait a whole year, so I hope you guys will be pleased with what you waited for!

#123 Comment by Graham on: 04/06/2009Have to agree with anm, some viewers i know used to love this site but they dont bother checking it anymore, because it's not updated as often anymore :-(

FX's answer → Well, yes, if they came twice a week for their food porn fix, yesthat's not current since I'm busy doing other things. But all you need is enter your

email address in the box, press subscribe and you'll get an email the minute a new article is posted - so no more daily disappointments!

#125 Comment by irene gray on: 05/06/2009if you are looking for an english speaking "proof reader" i'd be more than happy to oblige.british english with a scottish accent.

FX's answer → Thanks for your kind offer Irene, I will definitely call on your helpnext time!







Go home, do things by the book and be happy. People on this blog are quite comfortableexperiencing food in a less conventional way, and we certainly can do without your rudeness.

FX's answer → Ah well, this is bound to happen when you write about an Italianrecipe. Some Italians are more conservative than the Japanese when it comes to food, and there is a canonical version of each traditional recipe written in marble,and you'll always find a guy to light a cross by your house if you dare do it different.

#141 Comment by Marianne - Vaxholm, Sweden on: 08/06/2009Delicious results on my plate, Francois Xanvier, the recipe worked very well, the absenceof bronze drawn pasta notwithstanding.Here I am, thinking that your little video project has probably ballooned into an evening filling epos - 'The Godfather' of rösti so to speak, when in fact a series of videos is on itsway?!Fabulous! I have been trying to imagine just what it is you are up to: is he doingsomething around a certain geographic place, or type of food, or season, or spice? While Ikeep on guessing, rest assured that I am looking forward to the final product, no matter the day, week or month it emerges, we all know it will be good!

FX's answer →

Thanks for your kinds words Marianne and glad the recipe worked for you! It's going to be about Swiss cooking - any season!

#143 Comment by Staysure on: 12/06/2009I have been looking for a good arrabiata recipe for a while. Look forward to trying yoursout. Very good post and blog by the way. You could use a thumbnail picture modulethough. Anway, nice work.

FX's answer → Yes you can click on top to get smaller (500 pixels) pictures if youwant.

#145 Comment by kurzhaar on: 12/06/2009

Hallo Francois, Just popping in to see if all is well, and it looks like it is. As for differences in how to prepare a traditional dish...I completely agree with you--how many "authentic" "traditional" recipes are there for any one thing, there must be as many as there are families!!! I have friends who get very argumentative about what goes intotheir "authentic" garam masala, and yes--the results are different, but all good! In any case, there was no excuse for rudeness!On Swiss food...I have meant to inquire about the biscuit known as Dirgel or Tirggel? Iremember having been given some years ago, quite beautifully molded (but very hard!).Looking forward to your next installation!

FX's answer → Thanks, oh I have seen ruder, no worry. Yes, tirgel is on my list of future investigation - some patience will be needed though.

#147 Comment by mario on: 14/06/2009I'm very sorry, it was so far from me beeing rude, I beg pardon you all. Of course you areright "de gustibus non est disputandum" and italian people tend very often toconservatorism in their kitchens: but what I intended was that in some recipes you can'tchange ingredients or you will have a completely different things.

FX's answer → No problem for me.

#149 Comment by Jan on: 14/06/2009





FX's answer → Jan, life is in the kitchen, not on the computer!

#151 Comment by Marianne - Vaxholm, Sweden on: 14/06/2009To Mario @ #147 How very gracious of you to offer an apology, Mario! I really appreciate your gesture:) Asyou can see when browsing this blog, very few things are done or discussed in the spirit of conservatism, quite on the contrary perhaps and there is a reason for that. Discussions,

questions, ideas, hints and tips are swapped so that everybody can enjoy FX's recipes and make the most of them with the often limited options at hand. Buying ricotta salata inStockholm for instance is quite difficult, maybe even impossible. I haven't found it yet,despite the advantages the EU has provided us with regard to more choices regardingother European countries' food (unbelievable isn't it - something good has come out of EU... although we all love to complain about their regulations :). So, we cannot alwaysrecreate national recipes the way we would like to, and that's where creative thinkingcomes in. Of course an Italian food lover who can help and suggest ways to work around those problems is more than welcome!!! Kind regards - Marianne

FX's answer → Marianne I think the only place I've ever found ricotta salata is inSicily, but this summer I will make some myself at some cheesemaker's alpine chalet.Basically just take whey cheese, salt and press. I'll check in my Italian cheesetechnical encyclopedia beforehand though.

#153 Comment by Davide on: 15/06/2009Caro Mario and François-Xavier, after I've read in this blog about Pasta alla Norma donewith GUANCIALE I think that here every conservatorism about Italian food is shattered! Tome, a born Catanese, fed with traditional Pasta alla Norma since I was 2 years old,hearing such a thing is a profanity! Anyway, we must set our hearts at peace: foreignerswill always change our food thinking (wrongly) that they've found new ingenious way tocook it, and we will always think (rightly) that they've spoilt it. Anyway, since I've read this blog thoroughtfully, I should admit that François-Xaviers, for his in-dept knowledgeand talent and passion for Italian cuisine, should not be considered a foreigner, butindeed a countryman of ours! So we should grant him the right to do the odd, little

adjustment here and there.

But do not tell me again such a thing like pasta alla norma with guanciale, eh, FX? :)

Ciao,Davide

PS: Ho scritto questo commento in inglese in modo che potesse essere letto e capito dallamaggior parte dei lettori di questo blog.

FX's answer → Grazie Davide,Yes indeed guanciale is not used in Sicilian cooking at all, but you must grant me thatthere are at least 4 different recipes for Pasta alla Norma, only in Italy that is. Now Ihave ridden my tomato sauces of any animal fat and they are much lighter. Now I am glad you consider me as a fellow Italian as upon discovering that Sicilians eat Almond Sorbet inside of a French Brioche, I immediately embraced this great borrowing of

French pastry tradition. Many people might have refused to try, but it workswonders!

#155 Comment by Tara on: 23/06/2009Thank you for such an inspiring and educational blog, I appreciate how you have posted your mistakes and successes, a rare treat. I have sat and slowly read through each articleover the last two days like it’s a best selling novel. (My work has suffered a little but let’snot tell the boss). Cheers for your efforts, I'm looking forward to future articles and willbe spreading the word to fellow foodie friends.





I've been checking back 3 times a week every week. Life is dull without my regular FX fix.Throw us a morsel, anything!

#157 Comment by Groty on: 26/06/2009I'm with Shu!

Your heading for 3 months since the last update! Is that worth video, especially sinceyou're such a great photographer?

And don't tell us you haven't cooked anything in the last 2+ months.#158 Comment by Anthony on: 29/06/2009FX, where are you?

I'm a poor, newly graduated college student that can honestly say that their gradeswould've been better had they never stumbled upon your blog. Your writing is a greatinspiration. I hope that you're still adventuring and that everything is well.

#159 Comment by Nina on: 30/06/2009Francois, mon petit chou, how I miss you!

Please, please come back and update us with your culinary adventures. How I miss your delightful mirth and unabashed joy in the discovery of exquisite cuisine!

FX's answer → Alas I am less petit by the month! But I'll try to finish a video so you get to enjoy recipe, mirth and man all in one bite.

#161 Comment by bobb on: 02/07/2009FWIW I prefer articles with photos over video. So if it's the time required to producevideo that's slowing down the flow of new material, I hope you'll reconsider!

FX's answer → Yes, I hear you, but I'm in moving pictures for good now. Hope you'lleventually like them as much as you did the stills!

#163 Comment by Carlos on: 03/07/2009Estimado FX: Acabo de volver de Londres y Paris. Gracias por los datos acerca de Neil´sYard y las casas detrás de St Eustaque. Fui en peregrinación a ambas recomendaciones.Memorables quesos y sensacionales provisiones. No nos abandones FX !!!!.

FX's answer → Me alegra que has podido visitar a estos lugares en Londres y Paris,ojala que puedes cocinar algo con estos ingredientes y excelente bife argentino!

#165 Comment by Scotty on: 03/07/2009I hope your okay, its been months dear friend! I made this sans the anchovies because my partner can't stand them. It was, as all your recipes I've tryed, fantastic

FX's answer → Thanks Scotty, yes I am okay, just can't find times to shoot video and work and eat, so no time left for pictures - sorry!

#167 Comment by Joyce on: 06/07/2009I can't wait to try this!!!!I haven't seen anything new for a while, do not worry I am not nagging, but I am hopingthat you are well and safe.

#168 Comment by Erik on: 10/07/2009FX. I finally had the opportunity to prepare this dish for my wife and I and it was fantastic!!!! The anchovy does give it a great hit-you-back flavor like you said.. I plan onmaking this a regular dish on my dining room table! Can't wait for another installment from you! Cheers!!

#169 Comment by jmz on: 14/07/2009





....sigh. EVER coming back?? .... ??? At least throw us a bone...

#170 Comment by Poverina on: 27/07/2009Dico una preghiera piccola per lei, il signore cuoco grande.

#171 Comment by lynn on: 29/07/2009 fx, I miss your blog, like so many others. please post something, even if it's not long.

#172 Comment by Jay on: 29/07/2009Hey man, just tell us if you're not coming back. It's understandable, everyone's got stuff

going on.#173 Comment by Jason on: 01/08/2009My friends, I fear the worst has happened to our host, He's gone to the great Chili Cook-off in the sky..... I now await a post from FX's Cardiologist for a confirmation.

#174 Comment by Meramarina on: 03/08/2009No, no, our dearly departed FX has not gone to the Blessed Cook-Off in the Sky, but rather in the other direction. He led far too many hungry souls down the path of deliciousdestruction in his day, and surely he's now throwing a fiendishly good feast in the fiery realm . . . open hearth, boiling cauldrons, freshly sacrificed meat--you know, kind of thesame stuff we've seen here before--and we will all meet him again when our time comes,or when maybe, just maybe, he makes for us just one damned video from the hot spotbefore the camera equipment melts. . . oh what the hell . . . he is in a better place now .. . Do not mourn him.

#175 Comment by Alexa on: 05/08/2009FX, I have been a long-time lurking fan of yours. I check weekly for updates, drool over your amazing photography and culinary skills, all in silence.. until now. I have a loveaffair with all things tomato, and I decided it was time to stop being 'too busy to cook ona weeknight' when I saw this. Oh my God, I love it! Better than my regular old spaghettisauce by miles (which is delicious). So much more depth! I accidentally bought sardinesinstead of anchovies, but I think I got the right element.. absolutely fabulous. :) thanksvery much.

Alexa

#176 Comment by Michael on: 06/08/2009Your blog is a great inspiration. I hope you will post again soon.

#177 Comment by susie on: 06/08/2009OK, Francoise, I've held my tongue for 4 months...ENOUGH already. Get A HOLD of yourself MAN! SO what that your photographs are so much better than your video...getOVER IT! Just stop the stupid mopeing and start cooking again! SHEESH

I'm frigging starting to visit Kaotic (Dutch Girl Cooking) to get my culinary photgraphic fix AND man, you were SOOOOO much better than her on a bad day.

Jesue.......just cook something again and post it for your fans, at least.

Love, Susie (from Louisiana, where all the food is very good but just not as well- photographed)

#178 Comment by Gonzus on: 07/08/2009Hello, I have just ran into your website 30 minutes ago. Between the awesome picturesand the food you talk about, it has already turned into an instant favorite of mine.

I was wondering if you could provide any advice on making cheese at home. Is it even possible? How to get started?

My great-grandfather came from Switzerland and was a cheese maker, so both topics (CH and cheese) are very dear to my heart.

Thanks in advance and best regards.

http://poverina.blogspot.com/






#194 Comment by Christian on: 28/11/2009Tried the Pasta all'arrabiata yesterday - tasted fantastic, thanks :)I wonder if the "anchovy-trick" also works for my chili con carne and pushes it to the nextlevel ^^

#195 Comment by Matt Kay on: 21/09/2010 Awesome recipe. This is one of my Italian favorites. I have some very slight difference inmy recipe but I do use a potato masher. They're not just for potatoes anymore! I'd putthe whole chile in there but that's just me. ;D

Thanks for sharing.Matt Kay

#196 Comment by freistätter on: 05/10/2010Made this as hot as I could with the peppers I had on hand. Definitely one of the more"no-fuss" pasta dishes I've prepared in recent memory.

#197 Comment by Unknown on: 05/12/2010Hello

Great recipe!I love the anchovies instead of salt. Is it possible to replace the scotch bonnet with

something less spicy? Delecatesen yum! Can't wait to try it out!

FX's answer → Absolutely, my choice would be a chipotle.

#199 Comment by Ronnie on: 15/01/2011I had this gravy for the first time last weekend and WOW! Just the right amount of kickand simply delicious.

#200 Comment by Stacey D'Amico on: 11/02/2011Pasta Arrabiata makes me HAPPYYYYYYYYY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Love your photos as always. You are the best!

#201 Comment by carola been on: 21/03/2011 Just got to know this site,congratulations,I have already made the ragu delicious.I'moriginally from Holland,but raised in Sao Paulo.Now I live in Fort Lauderdale FL.I've beenmarried for 30 years to an Italian man from Brescia,Lombardia,I love to cook ,travel,and also speak a couple of languages.Thanks for the site.Have a good day.Carola

#202 Comment by Wine and Dine on: 06/04/2011wow fantastic posting really beautiful all pics . It looks so delicious. yummy!!! watering inmy mouth .great your idea for recipes i love it . thanks for nice sharing

#203 Comment by Jane on: 11/05/2011wow! The photos are really amazing! I've never seen such a good photo of an anchovy fillet- you can see the tiny tiny bones on it!The dish looks really fantastic and I quite fancy cooking it for my tea, although not with such a hot chili!

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Pasta All'Arrabbiata (Outstanding Pasta Sauce)

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