Parker report and ratings by Neil M artin October 2014 Think "+": South Africa 2014 October 31, 2014 "We have only just begun scratching the surface. We are thinking much more positively nowadays" - winemaker, Duncan Savage. Hemel-en-Aarde looking southwest towards the ocean Time moves fast in South Africa's wine industry. Its tectonic plates continually shift, intermittently jolt, the vinous landscape in constant flux. Winemakers are growing in confidence, expanding their horizons and opening new export markets as consumers wake up to the "new" South Africa, albeit in piecemeal fashion. Counter to this forward momentum is an anchor snagged upon a tradition and stubbornness: deeply entrenched philosophies of which some are more outdated than others, obdurate winemakers making obdurate wines. More and more, critics are hailing South African wines while sotto voce, wine estates are put on the market, desperate for buyers. At times it is a chaotic scene far removed from the stasis of the Old World. South Africa is roiling cauldron of ideas, perpetually self-questioning, a scene full of characters that boast some of the most fun, engaging and charismatic personalities you can meet. More than surveying and writing about the Cape, perhaps the greatest thrill of all is to taste what is going on. Previous TWA reports have generally tended to look at the country as a whole, but for this report I have made sure that regional information is searchable for every wine. Each geographic region is moving forward at a different pace: some foot to the floor in the fast lane, while others are content to tootle along in the slow lane. One or two have broken down and are stuck in a ditch.
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Parker report and ratings by Neil M artin October 2014
Think "+": South Africa 2014 October 31, 2014
"We have only just begun scratching the surface. We are thinking much more positively
nowadays" - winemaker, Duncan Savage.
Hemel-en-Aarde looking southwest towards the ocean
Time moves fast in South Africa's wine industry. Its tectonic plates continually shift, intermittently jolt, the vinous landscape in constant flux. Winemakers are growing in confidence, expanding their horizons and opening new export markets as consumers wake up to the "new" South Africa, albeit in piecemeal fashion. Counter to this forward momentum is an anchor snagged upon a tradition and stubbornness: deeply entrenched philosophies of which some are more outdated than others, obdurate winemakers making obdurate wines. More and more, critics are hailing South African wines while sotto voce, wine estates are put on the market, desperate for buyers. At times it is a chaotic scene far removed from the stasis of the Old World. South Africa is roiling cauldron of ideas, perpetually self-questioning, a scene full of characters that boast some of the most fun, engaging and charismatic personalities you can meet. More than surveying and writing about the Cape, perhaps the greatest thrill of all is to taste what is going on.
Previous TWA reports have generally tended to look at the country as a whole, but for this report I have made sure that regional information is searchable for every wine. Each geographic region is moving forward at a different pace: some foot to the floor in the fast lane, while others are content to tootle along in the slow lane. One or two have broken down and are stuck in a ditch.
Looking over the lake at Saronsberg Estate in one of the Cape's lesser-known, but definitely up-and-coming regions - Tulbagh.
Before discussing each region in turn, here is a brief summary of the Cape's wine regions that I have restricted to those pertinent to this report (I recommend Tim James' excellent book "Wines of the New South Africa" or "Platter's Guide" for an unabridged list). There are five regions (written in bold) that contain "Districts" (listed below the region) and within many districts are individual "Wards" (written in italics.)
Western Cape - basically, wines labelled as such can be sourced from anywhere in the cap, a multidistrict blend.
Region: Coastal Region districts:
Swartland (Malmesbury, Riebeekberg)
Stellenbosch (Bottelary, Jonkershoek Valley, Polkadraai Hills, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch and others)
Constantia (No district)
Tulbagh
Paarl (Simonsberg-Paarl, Voor Paadeburg)
Franschhoek
Darling (Groenekloof)
Wellington
Also: Tygerberg, Klein Karoo, Calitzdorp, Langeberg-Garcia
Region: Cape South Coast
Walker Bay (Bot River, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge)
Elgin
Cape Agulhas (Elim)
Overberg (Greyton, Klein River, Elandskloof)
Also Swellendam, Cape Agulhas, Plettenberg Bay. Napier is a ward, but not a district)
Region: Olifants River
Citrusdal Valley
Citrusdal Mountain (Piekenierskloof)
Also Lutzville Valley
Region: Breede River Valley
Breedekloof (contains two wards)
Worcester (contains four wards)
Robertson (contains nine wards)
Other wards not part of a region: Cederberg and four others.
I am not going to discuss every wine region in the Cape, but stick to those I have visited and whose wines I am most familiar with. That does not imply that others are not worth investigating or are destined for bright futures.
It's All About Swartland
Chris and Andre Mullineux outside their winery in Riebeek Kasteel.
That is how it feels sometimes. It's all us journalists jabber on about. If ever a wine region wanted a masterclass on how to grab headlines and create a stir, make waves beyond their boundaries, then they should examine how a cluster of Swartland winemakers captured the imagination of consumers and critics alike and made it all seem so easy. All it took was a pioneer, Charles Back at Spice Route, a charismatic visionary like Back's former head-winemaker Eben Sadie, a behind-the-scenes viticultural guru like Rosa Kruger, a motivated group of winemakers, a healthy dollop of marketing know-how and an annual festival whose tickets are harder to obtain than Kate Bush, and presto, you too suddenly can become the
center of attention. Just one thing: don't forget that you have to make sensational, world-class, distinctive wines, otherwise it will be all for nothing.
Suffice to say that Swartland remains the most exciting region in South Africa. It has almost single-handedly blown away the cobwebbed prejudices that have stymied the industry's progress. There is no doubting both the sensory and intellectual attributes of Swartland wines produced by the likes of Sadie (both Eben and the "Lesser Known David"), Adi Badenhorst, Chris and Andrea Mullineux, mavericks like Craig Hawkins at Lammershoek, Callie Louw at Porseleinberg et al. These are certified dudes (certified by me, incidentally.) They appeal to the new generation of wine consumers and sommeliers who demand top-quality wine, ideally crafted by a cool hipster-cum-artisan that goes surfing at weekends, and not some retired oil magnate who in a pique of boredom splashed out on a lifestyle winery so that he can brag about it down at the clubhouse.
Moreover, Swartland has successfully nurtured an identity, homed in on a style of wine that coalesces easily in consumers' minds (you could argue that the French AC system does the same, albeit via legally imposed conditions.) Swartland is synonymous with red and white Rhône
blends that revel in its Mediterranean climate. The key to Swartland's success has been the skill of winemakers to control alcohol and ripeness levels through careful vineyard management (those so-called "little steps in the vineyard," prudent fermentation and barrel maturation.) Other wine regions have retained a much more diverse portfolio of wine styles, especially Stellenbosch. Diversity can be the spice of life, but it can also muddy a sense of regional identity.
Adi Badenhorst looking very "Old Testament" among his gnarly old vines.
The best Swartland wines continue to distinguish themselves with bags of personality and style, bridging that gap between Old World classicism and New World exuberance.
Of course, the reality is not quite as clear-cut.
First, there is more substandard Swartland wine beginning to appear, especially as outsiders become keen to cash in. Some could be accused of being motivated by the cachet of the name rather than respect for terroir. Which brings me neatly onto the second subject: Swartland has a lot of mediocre terroir that for many years made mediocre wines that are sold off to cooperatives. That terroir has not changed so a priori, consumers have to pick and choose their wines. It is a hot climate tempered by Atlantic breezes and therefore site location is fundamental with respect to soil type, altitude, age of vine and so forth.
The bottom line is: don't assume that it is going to be fantastic just because the label says Swartland.
Also, while there remain many bargains out there vis-à-vis quality, some new labels are presuming that consumers will not begrudge paying through the nose because it comes from Swartland, sometimes sans track record. That can be dangerous game to play. Consumers tend to figure these wines out and it can damage the reputation of a region as a whole. If demand pushes prices up, well then that's just microeconomics and fair play to you. But if justification is predicated on self-importance alone then that's an altogether different matter. You can predesign a very good wine, but not an expensive wine. It's even caught a few self-aggrandizing Bordeaux names out.
Producers to look out for: Adi Badenhorst, Lammershoek, Mullineux Family Wines, Rall,
Sadie Family.
Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch remains the most important South African wine region in terms of production, the number of long-standing stalwart wineries, the money that has been invested into the vineyards, the constant ferrying of tourists from nearby Cape Town and of course the standard of its finest wines. It remains a relatively conservative region, especially when compared to Swartland and when examining vinification modus operandi, where winemakers seem hidebound by maximum and not necessarily optimal new oak; maturation periods that assume longer is better. Frustratingly, they can often spoil what could have been a far superior wine with a bit of prudence and less recourse to a recipe. I've remarked on that before, but it bears repeating when you spend hours trawling through countless wines that taste identical. Stellenbosch can boast enviable terroir - it needs to be articulated through the wines.
Murray Barlow at Rustenberg Winery kindly gave me his own perspective.
"Oak complements these wines if the chosen coopers, toasting level, aging regimes and new-
wood percentages are handled correctly. I would say that most producers are oaking their wines
well, some are over doing it, but then if their customers like an oak - heavy style everyone is
running a business at the end of the day. Is cult California over-oaked? Is Bordeaux over-oaked?
What about many regions in Australia? Yet these regions still have many commercially
successful wines despite the oaking. Oak is not a swear word, it is an important part of a wines
identity if you stylistically can match the wine with the oak and, importantly, sell a wine within a
certain style. Consumers are also driving the agenda when it comes to grape tannin and
therefore body is affected too; green tannins are a no-no and bigger wines are made as a result
of picking riper, more concentrated fruit."
When I was in London, I spoke to one of the region's most forward-thinking winemakers, Carl van der Merwe about how he sees Stellenbosch. Carl remarked about the tendency for some growers to mimic Bordeaux both in terms of how they vinify their wines and the resulting style. Stellenbosch is not the only region guilty of this and there is nothing wrong with aspiring to what is perceived to be the apotheosis. You might assert that some Stellenbosch winemakers aspire not to Bordeaux, but First Growths in terms of using 100% new oak. But that is unrepresentative,
and the recipe that has been so successful for the likes of Mouton-Rothschild or Margaux is not necessarily a recipe for a Stellenbosch grower.
The problem is that the Stellenbosch climate differs greatly from that of Bordeaux, thereby engendering different Cabernet Sauvignon. As Carl mentioned, the region tends to endure heat spikes in later January/early February. Canopy management has to be adapted because, at the moment, too many vines are either overly shaded and as a consequence develop green tannins, or the berries are exposed and sizzle under the sun. The speed of ripening exacerbates this bifurcation of ripeness levels and you end up with this jarring sweet/green flavor that I am pleased to say, is less prevalent than just a decade ago. Carl believes that careful canopy management is necessary, in particular the removal of leaves earlier in the season and not when the sun is at its height, as this allows the exposed fruit to naturally build up the skin protection.
There is another threat that must be noted: urban expansion. Both towns of Stellenbosch and Somerset West have encroached upon vineyard land and even the most propitious vines will never make the profit margins of real estate. Indeed, one winemaker told me the story of the Syrah 1997 from Boekenhoutskloof: a benchmark for the industry. What happened to the 1998? Nobody will ever know because afterward the owner of the contracted land sold it off and apparently it is now a car park. I wonder if those parking their cars are aware of the real cost of a ticket? As real estate prices continue to increase, so will the threat of urban expansion because as we all know, money talks.
This man makes some of South Africa's finest wines: Bruwer Raats of Raats Family Wines and Mvemve Raats.
Will Stellenbosch change? On the surface, Stellenbosch remains a successful region. It has the most luxurious estates in the most dramatic locations (a tourist magnet for those visiting Cape Town nearby) and a clutch of icon labels. Many growers seem envious and occasionally bewildered that Swartland became the darling of journalists and consumers alike. Proprietors of lifestyle wineries are beginning to wake up to the maxim that the only way to make a small fortune in wine is to start with a big fortune. There is a susurrus of wineries up for sale to the highest silent bidder - but finding them is not so easy.
Fortunately, there are interesting movements in the region, especially with the likes of De Morgenzon, Reyneke, Tokara and Keermont to name but a few. Then there are the stalwarts such as Kanonkop and Rustenberg who are producing top-quality wines. While the former is just nailing Pinotage year after year under the talented winemaker Abrie Beeslaar, Murray Barlow suggested that Stellenbosch should pursue alternative grape varieties to Bordeaux.
"I am very excited about Shiraz, Grenache, Cinsault and Malbec in Stellenbosch. These are
varieties which are proving to show more finesse beyond the raw power of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. We are planting more Malbec and have a wonderful and very useful vineyard of
Grenache which is a totally overlooked and out-of-fashion variety that creates wonderfully
drinkable and accessible wines. So these varieties are where we are seeing the biggest changes
in the region. Stellenbosch is making some exciting white wine styles and this is where we are
seeing the biggest changes. We have some wonderful old Chenin that is being recognized and
nurtured, great sites for growing Chardonnay and we are understanding our own brand of
Sauvignon Blanc better and better each year."
Reyneke is one of Stellenbosch's most forward-thinking estates. Winemaker Rudiger Gretschel is pictured here after running
through a tropical storm to check on his Merlot.
The common factor seems to come down to the vision of the winemaker and whether they can put that into practice without the ego or misguided ideals of the proprietor getting in the way. Perhaps what seems to be changing in Stellenbosch is that there is more self-examination taking place either in the open or behind closed doors. That is a good thing. Accepting the status quo is ill-advised when the wine industry and consumer tastes are constantly changing. Stellenbosch does need to move forward and not keep waiting for tomorrow, because tomorrow might be too late.
Producers to look out for: Kanonkop, De Morgenzon, Raats, Reyneke, Rustenberg,
Vilafonté.
Franschhoek
I will cut to the chase: Franschhoek was the most disappointing regional tasting. There were too many substandard and anodyne wines in proportion to others. For sure, one expects wines that are predesigned with commercial appeal. But even at a low price- point a wine must offer freshness, balance and something to say, even if it as banal as "I taste nice." I don't have any truck with those wines. They are welcomed within this report and some overachieve within this category. In fact, it's a real opportunity for South Africa. But in Franschhoek I endured a dismal run of nondescript wines whose shortcomings were thrown into sharp relief by beacons of quality, the two brightest without question Chamonix or Boekenhoutskloof (I would also add
Colmant whose MCC's I am remiss not to have tasted.) Both these producers excel at premium and entry-level, so why can't others? The problem is that Franschhoek is one of the most beautiful wine regions, and land prices have rocketed as the wealthy seek to bag estates, preferably close to the picturesque town and against the dramatic mountainous backdrop, then build a chichi restaurant to cater to the constant flow of tourists. It's all too easy. Offer the bare minimum and those tourists will still depart happy with their ordinary Franschhoek wine, but in the long run it will nibble away at its reputation as a source of quality South Africa wine, if it has not done so already. Franschhoek can do much better. They could take a leaf out of Constantia's book.
Producers to look out for: Boekenhoutskloof, Chamonix.
Hemel-en-Aarde
Kicking up a storm with Hannes, outgoing winemaker at Hamilton Russell.
A fledgling wine region will always have more success when everybody cooperates, supports each other, exchanges information, promotes the region as "one," while celebrating their differences and the diversity of the wines. Case in point: Central Otago, Swartland and in the mid-19th century, even Bordeaux. Hemel-en-Aarde has enormous potential. There is a benevolent microclimate here: the Atlantic winds funneling up the valley, regulating temperatures and avoiding the heat spikes that can affect much of South Africa. There is the terroir, the exposure of the vines and so forth. The problem is that there is an undeniable political and even personal schism between the relatively small number of growers in Hemel-en-Aarde that do not see eye-to-eye and insist upon divvying up the region into sub regions. To explain, as you drive up from the coastal town of Hermanus through the valley you will pass through three wards: Hemel en Aarde Valley, the home to Bouchard-Finlayson and Hamilton Russell, then Upper Hemel-en-Aarde and finally Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge (though some contend this is actually a separate valley.)
Hemel-en-Aarde has the potential to be one of South Africa's superstars. Here's talented winemaker Gordon Newton-Johnson
among the Pinot Noir.
This division implies that one is supposedly better than the other. Frankly, nobody outside Hemel-en-Aarde gives two hoots and, indeed, there is a more fundamental question of consumers differentiating Hemel-en-Aarde from Walker Bay (Hemel-en-Aarde was classified as Walker Bay until 2006 when the latter was made a District two years earlier - I suspect many conflate the two.) If the wine tastes great and thankfully a lot of their wines do, then precisely where in the valley the vines call home is a moot point.
I have tasted some of the greatest wines from Burgundy and, take it from me, Hemel-en-Aarde is making serious, world-class Pinot Noir. If you occupy a wine region whose foundations date back to Medieval Cistercian monks and your vines can remember World War II, then by all means, atomize your vineyard into miniscule parcels that are relevant to drinkers who discern common traits and gain intellectual satisfaction distinguishing Volnay from Pommard or Gevrey-Chambertin from Morey-Saint-Denis. But Hemel-en-Aarde is still in its infancy. Don't be distracted by slicing up the valley or debating the nuances in terroir unless there is an emphatic, unequivocal difference in quality. If we are talking about different "shades" of wine then focus upon establishing a loyal, appreciative audience for your region, foster recognition for the name "Hemel-en-Aarde" and, as time goes on, let them discern and discuss differences themselves. That aside, this is fast becoming one of my favorite regions with a bevy of top growers making exciting wines that deserve more recognition.
Producers to look out for: Ataraxia, Alheit Vineyards, Crystallum, Hamilton-Russell,
Hermanuspietersfontein, Newton Johnson (and bubbling under: Storm, Thorne &
Daughters)
Elgin
There's a lot of buzz going around Elgin at the moment, especially with regard to the white blends that are gaining traction both domestically and in overseas markets. One great supporter is importer Richard Kelley MW, who kindly sent some background information that I have used below.
The first thing to note is that their weather station records the lowest heat summation days: 1,502, which compares to 1,945 for Stellenbosch, 2,058 for Malmesbury (Swartland) and 2,146 for Paarl. It also has one of the lowest mean temperatures in February: 19.7 degrees compared
to 21.5 degrees in Stellenbosch and 23.3 degrees for Swartland. I could present a host of other data, but these should clearly illustrate why Elgin is perfect for cool-climate Chardonnay, while Swartland is more suited for red and in particular Rhône varieties.
"Elgin is quite unique," Andries Burger (winemaker at Paul Cluver) explained. "It is the only wine
region in South Africa with natural boundaries formed in the same manner. The valley was
created by the shift in tectonic plates and this gives us natural boundaries in the form of the
mountains. To enter the valley you have to cross a mountain range (all these mountains once
were one.) The valley floor consists mostly of decomposed Bokkeveld shale that was formed
400 million years ago, with the mountains surrounding the valley consisting of Table Mountain
Sandstone. On Paul Cluver, our soils rarely extend more than 1.2metres with the average soil
depth around 60cm with underlying clay. Quite marginal soils compared to the decomposed
granites in Stellenbosch and the Swartland."
"The Elgin valley is situated on an elevated plateau (between 300m - 550m) in close proximity to
the coast, depending on the site, vineyards in Elgin is situated between 7 and 25 km from the
ocean. The combination of elevation and proximity to the coast has a very influential impact on
the climate of the valley, cool moist air coming in from the southeast (most persistent wind in
summer in the Western Cape) the cool moist air rises as it is pushed up the mountains causing
condensation and the formation of clouds. This not only has a tremendous effect in lowering the
average daily temperature, but also reduces the daily sunlight hours, which prolongs the
ripening. We do not get the extreme high temperatures we normally associate with the Western
Cape in February, thus maintaining higher natural acidity in the grapes. Having this more
moderate and cool climate gives us the opportunity to produce wine which is distinctly more
elegant, wine with natural freshness and balance. Also having more marginal soils like we have
at Paul Cluver give us more balanced vineyards, vineyards with not much excessive growth,
thus we do not have to manipulate our canopies in order to retard growth or where we have to
manipulate the crop levels. In all, I am looking to find vineyards and therefor wines with a natural
sense of balance. If you have to manipulate the vineyards and wines you will always have a
situation where something is forced."
So far so good. Plant all the Chardonnay and white varieties. But there is a threat and there's probably a bowl of them on your dining table...
Apples.
Around 80% of Elgin's farmland is dedicated to apples and the bad news for vines is that at present they are more profitable (even though an orchard is costlier to run due to higher labor costs.) This means that there is a constant threat even to established vineyards in an economic climate where many wine estates are struggling for market share. That would be a shame because Elgin is already making exceptional Chardonnay from the likes of Paul Cluver and one senses that there is a lot more to come.
Producers to look out for: Iona, Jean Daneel, Paul Cluver, Shannon
Constantia
Klein Constantia's winemaker, Matthew Day, in the vineyard. Not a bad view across False Bay.
There may be just a handful of producers lucky enough to farm vines on what must be considered one of the most picturesque regions in the world, but they all seem to set a high standard. It would be easy for the likes of Klein Constantia, Beau Constantia or Cape Point Vineyards to rest on their laurels: suck up the tourists and town-dwellers within their ambit and churn out mediocre wines. Rather, the Constantia seems to have pursued the idea that a beautiful wine region deserves beautiful wines. Part of that comes from the specific terroir of this exposed land and part comes from a cluster of talented winemakers exploiting the land such as Duncan Savage, Justin van Wyk and Matthew Day. Speaking to these winemakers, I get the impression that the wealthy owners of the likes of Cape Point Vineyards, Constantia Glen and Klein Constantia respectively, have assiduously given them the liberty to produce to class wines without too much interference. The result is some exceptionally great Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay wines, not forgetting the resurgent Vin de Constance.
Producers to look out for: Klein Constania, Cape Point Vineyard, Beau Constantia, Eagles'
Nest.
Tulbagh
The pressures on time means that I cannot visit every region, but I endeavor to visit one that I have never stepped foot in. This year it was Tulbagh, which is about a 90-minute drive from Stellenbosch, the source of some fine South African wines in previous reports. Much like Eben Sadie is cited as the man who gave the impetus for Swartland, in Tulbagh it was the irrepressible Neville Dorrington at Rijk's around the turn of the millennia. In this region, altitude is key. It is a warm climate with virtually no maritime influence, although I just happened to stay there on the coldest night ever in South Africa, so it didn't feel that way. Indeed, there is a large seasonal and diurnal variation in temperature that plays to the winemakers' advantage. There are swaths of white-grape varieties, mainly Chenin Blanc and Colombard, that supply high volume brands, but the top wineries are producing some quite wonderful wines. Apart from Rijk's where Pierre Wahl is crafting some gorgeous reds, look out for excellent wines from Saronsberg and especially a resurgent Fable Mountain Vineyards that wowed me with their latest releases, all credit to Rebecca Tanner and Paul Nicholls.
Producers to look out for: Fable Mountain Vineyards, Rijk's, Saronsberg.
Raiding All Shelves In The Larder
There is a counter-flow to South Africa's coalescing of wine regions that cannot be ignored. You could argue that this report gives a simplistic view of the Cape. A cursory glance implies that this
grower comes from this region and that grower from that and so on. However, it is far more complex and fluid than that. This is not France: hidebound by strict AC rules. One of the reasons why South Africa's wines have shown such rapid pace of improvement is the liberty to source fruit from the best vineyards and multi-regional blends, wines that would have to suffice with "Vin de Table" in France are not only commonplace, but are the basis of some of the Cape's best wines. Why restrict your ingredients from one shelf, when you can cherry-pick the entire larder? Sure, you might have to change your regional W.O to the more all-encompassing "Western Cape," but frankly, nobody really cares, certainly not in the same way that a connoisseur might turn their nose up at a Vin de France when they could have drunk a "Puligny-Montrachet."
From the left: Chris Alheit, kitten-lover Peter-Allan Finlayson (Crystallum) and John Seccombe (Thorne & Daughters.) All three
have been making outstanding wines from their base in Hemel-en-Aarde, much through meticulously chosen contracted
vineyards both within and beyond the region.
The subject of multiregional blends can be looked at in two ways. Like I said, a talented, conscientious winemaker can deftly assemble parcels of vine from here and there and create an excellent wine. On the other hand, if South Africa wants to embrace regional identities that are distinguishable one from another, thereby enhancing the notion of terroir in the eyes of an audience that seems reluctant to accept South Africa as anything more than cheap, high-volume, geographically indeterminate vino, then multiregional blends should be discouraged. In this sense, there has been a move for some producers to give their wines more geographic specificity, in some cases to improve quality, and in others to shift a few more cases at a few extra rand.
Personally, I would maintain the status quo for now. There are a lot of winemakers, especially younger ones, who can refine their craft by their experience in different locales. I hope that as time moves on and as a wider audiences appreciates the styles of wine not just regionally, but perhaps even sub-regionally, then that will go in tandem with an even greater focus on site location, so that consumers gain an intellectual insight into how a delimited patch of vines performs year after year.
This is the other thing. Much like Burgundy, many winemakers, and in particular a majority of the younger ones that I spoke to, cannot afford to buy their own vineyards and indicated little desire to do so, even if that became financially viable. You can view this as a global phenomenon, one that you could argue has been common in California for decades and now increasingly so in Burgundy. If I was afforded more time, I could investigate in detail where many of the top names source their fruit. In many cases, a propitious vineyard is the fountain that bestows fruit for several top names. Does that matter? Not really, not if the resulting wine is good, which many of them are. You could argue that it runs contrary to the romantic notion of the winemaker being intimate with each and every precious vine and, of course, you run the risk of losing your favorite source of fruit overnight that may denude the Cape of consistency. On the other hand, many
winemakers ensure that contracts run for a number of years (20-25 seemed to be a common figure).
The Growing Seasons
Of course, there is a variation between different Cape wine regions with regard to the growing season that are more variable than some other New World countries due to the strong maritime climate and the altitude of some vineyards. Readers will find more detailed information within the grower entries in this report. But Murray Barlow at Rustenberg sent me a useful summary of the 2012 and 2013 vintages.
"We had a great winter in 2012, it was cold and wet so budburst was even and the vines grew
vigorously. We had a dry summer although wind played a factor with the flowering of some
varieties. The beginning of the harvest was great, but we had a fair bit of humidity and rain in the
middle of harvest so it was a true test of how well-managed our canopies were and how well our
spray programs were implemented. The 2013 whites have really shown well, while the reds are
a bit mixed. We harvest about two weeks later than the rest of Stellenbosch in general so we
really need the season to end on a warm note to make the wines we are most happy with. The
last three vintages (2012-2014) have been fairly cool on Rustenberg, having started well they
have ended without too much heat and as a result the reds are not as expressive with their fruit
as we would like but have shown exceptional structure built for the long haul."
Cape Winemakers Guild
During September I was able to taste some of the wines being produced for the Cape Winemakers Guilds and hopefully you should be able to search for these on the database by simply typing "CWG" into the search engine. Its 45 winemakers represent the peak of achievement in South Africa and each year submit one, or sometimes two, wines to be sold through the auction held every autumn, the proceeds going to fund their protégé program and
toward charitable causes. A committee assesses each submission so, for example, any wine with unacceptable volatile acidity levels or brettanomyces will be rejected, as has happened in the past. There are some that accuse the CWG of producing relatively conservative wines that do not represent the Cape's diversity and during the tasting with CWG chairman Andries Burger of Paul Cluver, there does seem to be a move toward accepting younger winemakers offering alternative wines, such as Andrea Mullineux's excellent Sauvignon Gris. Tasting through a number of CWG wines, as I have done for several years now, there remains a tendency for some wine to be overdone and lacquered with too much ?cosmetics? so that they can flutter their extra-long lashes down the auction "catwalk." Not everything works. On the other hand, the CWG auction does offer some extremely good reds that showcase the talent of the winemaker, though as a buyer I would actually err towards some really outstanding whites.
The Market
At the "Beautiful South" tasting in London, a very well organized event focusing on South Africa, Chile and Argentina, I met up with Jim Clarke of "Wines of South Africa." He is in charge of the market in the United States and so is expertly placed to give an overview.
He told me that 2014 was shaping up to be a challenging year for South African exports. Part of the reason is that much of the US market is focused upon its own wines from California, Oregon, New York and so on, at the expense of foreign wines with the notable exception of New Zealand. However, the 10 to 11% reduction in South Africa wine imports has been less dramatic compared to other New World countries. Part of the reason is a strong interest from sommeliers and the on-trade, especially with respect to Swartland, Rhône blends and white blends. Regional
recognition stretches only as far as Swartland and Stellenbosch - after that consumer recognition of the likes of Hemel-en-Aarde or Elgin start getting"blurry". On the retail side, Chenin Blanc is gaining traction with consumers who are beginning to wake up to both quality and value. For all categories, the sweet spot is for wines priced between $15.00 and $20.00, and it is here that South Africa provides strong competition against California.
One of the obstacles is that many retailers remember the substandard wines of the late 1990s. It takes a long time to remove prejudices and negative preconceptions; therefore they can be more reluctant to stock South African wines for fear of consumers harboring the same sentiments. In my opinion, this is something that can only be chipped away by a constant media presence, information, winemakers conducting tastings in the markets and in front of consumers, and not forgetting publications like The Wine Advocate giving an independent, third-party overview of its successes and failures.
Mind The Bling
I have covered a number of countries for this publication, but not one so prone to self-analysis as South Africa. I get the sense that it is still smarting from the insults thrown its way during the 1990s when a lot of wines fell short of the mark, coupled with the ridicule of Pinotage and prevalence of leaf-roll virus. I can still remember an infamous tasting in London whose motive seemed to be to trash South African wine. Perhaps it stung a few people into action?
The wine industry has moved on and addressed many of the issues that stymied progress and for that they must be congratulated. The melioration in wines has come hand-in-hand with a constant quest to evaluate itself both intra-regionally and where its wines stand on the global stage. This has precipitated a burgeoning of competitions so that some samples arrive barely standing under the weight of gold stickers. They almost need an extra empty bottle to accommodate them. Perusing the 2014 Platter's Guide, I counted 20 competitions, challenges and awards, which is far too many. As one winemaker quipped, they keep entering wine competitions until they win something, so that eventually even the most mediocre wines have won a gold medal somewhere. So my advice is do not be inveigled by glitter on the bottle. And winemakers that I spoke to were unanimous in a need to cull some of more dubious competitions from their midst, because at the end of the day it detracts from the better-run, more meaningful competitions.
Why The Hell Should I Buy South African Wines?
It seems like a bland question, but it's a relevant one because there is still a stigma about South Africa that is only gradually being eaten away. At value level, i.e. below $25 per bottle, there is a surfeit of good quality and sometimes, excellent quality wines for consumer to enjoy. At the same time, there is no escaping the fact there is a lot of dross out there. So pick carefully and use this report as a guide.
But I will repeat my headline that South Africa is the most dynamic and exciting New World country at the moment.
Why?
Because at the top end there are genuine world-class wines, not by dint of expensive oak or because Angelain the marketing department said so, but because of genuine reasons such terroir, vine age, talented winemakers and skillful winemaking.
Why should you buy the top South African wines? What makes them special?
1) They taste delicious (amazing how often that is forgotten.)
2) They combine the best of the New World with the Old World. The best offer plenty of fruit without overpowering the senses and inducing life-threatening hangovers.
3) South Africa has terroir, not "terroir" dreamed up the aforementioned Angela in the marketing department. There is some seriously complex geology in South Africa, maybe not as atomized as Burgundy, but the kind of geology that lends something to wine.
4) South Africa has old vines, seriously old. A lot have been lost to cooperatives and are still threatened by urbanization and just blended away. But the likes of Rosa Kruger and Eben Sadie are saving them from extinction. The result is a burgeoning of serious wines from ancient gnarly old vines.
5) There is greater emphasis on considered winemaking, especially from the younger generation of winemakers who have learned their craft from the masters in classic wines regions BUT...
6) ...unlike those winemakers, they are not hidebound by rules, therefore there is a sense of adventure in the Cape.
7) The best wines have the substance, balance and persistency to suggest they will reward cellaring.
8) Pinotage has undergone a revolution and both old and new producers are beginning to exploit this grape variety. Journalists do not joke about Pinotage as much as they used to, although high-volume brands need to pull their socks up. Pinotage can also age extremely well as I have found myself, even decades in some cases.
9) South Africa's whites are on a roll. If you love Chardonnay, and let's face it, we all do, then the Cape is producing some of the most exquisite, mineral-driven you can find. Alternatively, the white Rhône blends are constantly delivering something more esoteric,
yet well-crafted and packed full of flavor, especially from Swartland.
10) Re-read points one to nine and then look at the prices. Even the most revered wines represent good value, to the chagrin of many South African winemakers convinced that
their wines are undervalued. They are in some cases, not in others, and there is a blurred line between undervalued and good value.
(This report, the largest South African report so far for this publication, was written after my 12-
day visit to the Cape in July 2014, where I visited many growers and undertook regional tastings
for those I could travel to. This was supplemented by an additional week of tasting in the UK.
One or two growers that have been covered in the past did not wish to submit their newest
releases because of the stage their wines were in, but they will reappear in the future. As is
normal practice, all costs and meals were paid for by TWA, including dinners which was
opportune to get the background to the South African wine scene, speak with growers and of
course, investigate the thriving cuisine (see Hedonist Gazette reports.) Wines of South Africa,
both in Cape Town and London assisted with the logistics and the gathering of data from
growers ? as usual they did an exemplary, professional job for which I am very grateful.)
�Neal Martin
Year Wine Name Rating Maturity Price
2013
Alheit Vineyards Cartology Bush Vines 93 Early
2013
Alheit Vineyards MAGNETIC NORTH MOUNTAIN MAKSTOK
91 Young
2013
Altydgedacht Gewurztraminer 87 Early
2013
Altydgedacht Pinot Noir 84 Early
2013
Altydgedacht Pinotage 88 Early
2014
Altydgedacht Sauvignon Blanc 84 Mature
2012
Amares Chardonnay 91 Early
2012
Anwilka Petit Frere 88 Early
2013
Arendsig Chardonnay 89 Early
2013
Arendsig Inspirational Batch 85 Mature
2012
Arendsig Syrah 83 Early
2013
Aria Music By D�aria Shiraz Cabernet Merlot 84 Mature
2009
Asara Avalon 89 Early
2012
Asara Cape Fusion 85 Mature
2009
Ashbourne Hemel en Aarde Valley 90 Young
2008
Ashbourne Hemel en Aarde Valley 90 Early
2009
Ashbourne Sandstone (Sauvignon Blanc) 91 Early
2013
Ataraxia Chardonnay 92 Early
2013
Ataraxia CWG Under the Gavel Chardonnay 93 Early
2009
Ataraxia Mountain Vineyard Serenity Western Cape 91 Early
2014
Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc 90 Early
2013
Avondale Wine Estate Anima Chenin Blanc 86 Early
2009
Avondale Wine Estate Avondale Armilla 85 Mature
2012
Avondale Wine Estate Avondale Jonty's Ducks Red 80 Mature
2012
Avondale Wine Estate Cyclus 88 Early
2013
Avondale Wine Estate Jonty's Ducks White 85 Mature
2009
Avondale Wine Estate La Luna 89 Early
2009
Avondale Wine Estate Samsara Syrah 84 Early
2010
Backsberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 83 Mature
2013
Backsberg Estate Chardonnay 83 Mature
2014
Backsberg Estate Chenin Blanc 84 Early
2013
Backsberg Estate John Martin Sauvignon Blanc 86 Mature
2012
Backsberg Estate Klein Babylons Toren 87 Early
2013
Backsberg Estate Kosher Brut 85 Early
2013
Backsberg Estate Kosher Chardonnay 85 Early
2013
Backsberg Estate Kosher Merlot 84 Early
2013
Backsberg Estate Kosher Pinotage 89 Early
2013
Backsberg Estate Pinotage Western Cape 86 Early
2010
Backsberg Estate Pumphouse Shiraz 86 Early
2014
Backsberg Estate Sauvignon Blanc 87 Early
2012
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Ch Raaigras Grenache 93 Early
2012
A A Badenhorst Family Wines CWG Ch Ramnasgras Hermityk
91 Young
2012
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Dassiekop Granietsteen Chenin Blanc
92 Young
2012
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Family Red Blend 92 Young
2011
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Family Red Blend 93 Early
25
2012
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Family White Blend 90 Early
42
2011
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Family White Blend 93 Early
NV
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Funky White Blend 90 Early
2013
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Chenin Blanc 88 Early
12-15
2012
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Red Blend 90 Early
16
2014
A A Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Rose 89 Mature
2010
Bartinney Private Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 85 Young
2012
Bartinney Private Cellar Chardonnay 87 Young
20
2012
Beau Constantia Aidan 90 Young
2013
Beau Constantia Cecily Viognier 91 Early
2012
Beau Constantia Lucca 93 Young
2013
Beau Constantia Pas de Nom White 86 Mature
2012
Beau Constantia Shiraz 90 Young
2011
Beaumont Wines Chenin Blanc 86 Early
2013
Beaumont Wines Hope Margurite Chenin Blanc 88 Early
2012
Beaumont Wines Pinotage 88 Early
2011
Beaumont Wines Shiraz Mourvedre 81 Early
2011
Beaumont Wines Vitruvian 86 Young
2009
Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 88 Early
N-V
Graham Beck Bliss Demi Sec 89 Mature
2013
Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 89 Early
N-V
Graham Beck Brut 90 Mature
N-V
Graham Beck Brut Rose 87 Early
2009
Graham Beck Brut Rose 89 Early
2007
Graham Beck Brut Zero 88 Early
2011
Graham Beck Coffeestone Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Early
24
2009
Graham Beck Cuvee Clive 89 Early
2012
Graham Beck Game Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Young
2013
Graham Beck Game Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 85 Early
2013
Graham Beck The Game Reserve Chardonnay 88 Early
2013
Graham Beck The Game Reserve Chenin Blanc 87 Early
2012
Graham Beck The Game Reserve Pinotage 87 Young
2012
Graham Beck The Game Reserve Shiraz 90 Young
2012
Graham Beck The Ridge Shiraz Franschhoek / Robertson
88 Young
2009
Belfield Magnifica 86 Young
2011
Belfield Syrah 89 Young
2009
Belfield Syrah 88 Early
2011
Belfield Wines Aristata 88 Early
2014
Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc / Pinotage 85 Early
2012
Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage 90 Young
2013
Beyerskloof Pinotage 81 Early
2012
Beyerskloof Reserve Pinotage 87 Young
2012
Beyerskloof Synergy Stellenbosch 86 Young
2011
Bizoe Wines Estalet Syrah 86 Early
2013
Bizoe Wines Hernietta 90 Early
2012
Black Pearl The Mischief Maker 90 Early
2012
Black Pearl Vineyards Oro 86 Early
2012
Blackwater Wine Mmxi Cultellus Syrah 90 Young
2012
Blackwater Wine Mmxi Noir 87 Early
2013
Bloemendal Estate Kanonberg Sauvignon Blanc 87 Early