Panzer Aces No.29

BIMONTHLYNo. 29

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Tanks in Russia ITanks of the Eastern Front,1941-1942: Painting andcamouflage

Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. B:10. Pz.Div.Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F:7. Pz.Div.Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. H:3.Pz.Div.

Tracks &accessories:Painting andvarnishing

Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. E:6.Pz.Div.

Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. F-1:5.Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 31

Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. F-2:14.Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 36

Identification symbols:Theemblems used by Germancrews in the Eastern Front,1941-1942.

Tanks in Russia IIA further analyse oncamouflages based on newinformation. Assembly andsuperdetailing of Russianand Germantanks andspecially the followingmodels:

Pz.Kpfw.38 (t), T-26T-60T-34/78 mod.1940T-34 mod.1941T-34/76 mod.1941/42Ekranami

BT-5BT-7M, , KV-II mod.1939,KV-I mod.1941 KV-IE.

Tanks in Russia IIIEmblems of ArmoredGerman Units on theEastern Front, 1943-1945

German Camouflage Colors,1943 (RAL 840R)

Russian Camouflage Colors,1943

Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M -Pz.Rgt.3., 2. Pz.Div.

Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. G - 20. Pz.Div.

Pz.Kpfw. V Ausf. D - 51.Pz.Abt., III Pz.Rgt.53

T-34/76 Mod. 1943. 30thGuard Armored

Tanks in Russia IVPz.Kpfw. V Panther Ausf. A,5.SS-Pz.Div. Wiking

Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. V PantherAusf. A

Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger Ausf. E , 2.Pz.Rgt., SS-Pz.Gren.Div. DasReich

Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. Vi tigerAusf. E

Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger Ausf. E ,Sch. Pz.Abt. 509

Pz.Kpfw. VI tiger Ausf. E ,Sch. Pz.Abt. 509 versininvierno

IS-1 (KV-85), Unidad deentrenamiento cerca de lafbrica Kirovski

IS-1, 13 regimiento dechoque de carros pesadosde la guardia

Tanks in Russia

17 Sold Out 17 20

The beast of LadogaThe Tiger I is a frequented piece among hobbyists, because theresalways an interesting version of it, with an interesting camouflageto reproduce. Other options are also explored in the color profiles.

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HetzerThe 1/48 scale is becoming increasingly popular. We can find a wide range of kits

and a number of accessories. These kits are easy to assemble and paint too.

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BMP-1This is an old kit that portrays an attractive amphibious Soviet

vehicle that has undergone an intense detailing labor;becoming a collectors item.

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MODELLING LESSONS: Wooden BoxWe will learn how to paint a wooden box on a 1/16 scale. 62

Humber scout car Mk. ISmall vehicles can come in handy when doing a vignette. We have here a BritishHumber armored vehicle and a figure to demonstrate the splendid results. The reviewhas a photographic research review that has been used to build this kit.

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FlakscheinwerferWe have here an unusual diorama that shows us how the anti-aircraft material is

unloaded in a train station.

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UnteroffizierHere we have a magnificent figure that portrays a German Infantry NCO sporting acamouflaged uniform.

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3

he Tiger I have chosen tomodel, represents one of the5 remaining vehicles in Febru-

ary 1943 of schwere Panzerabteilung502 (heavy tank battalion) primarilyfighting in the Leningrad sector, dur-ing the battle of lake Ladoga.

I have always been fascinated bythe early Tigers and the divergence incamouf lage in par t icular thewinter/snow camo schemes; thereforeit was an easy choice to depict thisvehicle in this period, the Tigers of502 having a very distinctive patternduring this time.

The vehicles were very stark whitein order to blend in with the snow(the idea behind snow camo) alsovery little if any dirt or mud as theywere running on frozen ground, snowand ice, using primarily the images onpages 16 & 17 from the book Tiger Isur le Front de lEst for reference, alsothe art work on page 19.

This kit builds into a nice modelout of the box, but with the additionof a few minor additions and correc-tions, it can be turned into a realshow piece.

Even though the model was onlypicked at sporadically over a two yearperiod.

I had all construction done andready for paint in about 16 hours.

By: Steve PalffyPictures by the authorColor profiles by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

T H E M O D E L

Dragon 1/35

The Tiger I undoubtedly the mostKnown and feared Tank of its time

with its thick armour and theincredible fire power of the German88 makes it one of those things thatevery armour modeler will build at

some point.

The Dragon kit contains enoughparts to build more than a few varia-t ions of these 1st series Tigers,although part use for all but the oneon the box art is a little vague.

Also depending on when you aredepicting the vehicles, there are a lotof additions and paint changes overtime.

Lots of left over bits for the sparesbin!

Double check instructions and ref-erence to make sure you didnt forgetanything.

Wanting to show damage and lackof replacement parts.

The turret box (Rommelkiste) pro-vided in the kit from a Panzer III wasused although I did not see these inthe reference used, the Battalion didhave Panzer III Ausf. N and Ausf. Lsas fire support, so it is possible.

I wanted to show damage and lackof replacement parts on the model, soseveral of the outer road wheels wereleft off, then using left over hubs fromthis and other kits to replace them.

I ended up using very little of thephoto etch included in the kit,chosingto remove the fenders after looking atthe model for a while, just using the

parts for the smoke generators, andthen taking the engine deck screensfrom a late production Tiger kit.

All photo etch parts were glued inwith instant glue.

I used the WWII productions No.35026 tracks, these things are great,saving the modeler a lot of time inthat they are articulated and just clicktogether, giving a very realistic tracksag, you can either glue them downwith super glue as I have done or ifyou want a clean look to the modelpaint and attach later.

There was a time when I modeledeverything with some kind of damageon it, but this kit really called out forit, in particular after reading the Tiger Ion the Eastern Front book, s. Pz.Abt502s Tigers were up against huge oddsof numerically superior forces and wasalso in short supply off spares, somodeling damaged and missing partsbecame essential.

Missing road wheels, with scratchesand scrapes applied with hobby knifeinto remainder of rubber road wheels.

Impact marks were added by slight-ly drilling into the armour.

Penetration into sheet metal partsand outer road wheels was applied byslightly drilling into parts, then drillingthrough with smaller diameter drill bit.

And of course removing the frontfenders and one of the rear ones thenbecame necessary to add to the lookof the beat up Tiger.

Some of the vehicles had the vari-ous upgrades added so check refer-ence!

ASSEMBLY

B A T T L ED A M A G E

The tracks have beenreplaced, four photoetched grilles have beenplaced on the motorscover, and a figure hasbeen placed in theturret.

KITS USED

Kit:-Tiger I Inicial Production, Dragonref. 6252, 1/35 scale.Orugas:-Tiger I Early, WWII Productionsref. 35026.Accessories:-Engine deck screens from Tiger ILate Production, Dragon ref. 6253.-Hubs from Tiger I Frhe Produc-tion, Tamiya ref. 35216.Figure:-Flak Artillery Crew, Dragon ref.6275 with heads Verlinden Pro-ductions.

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The first airbrushed layer of paint isXF-52. This will also be base color forthe tracks.

After airbrushing a layer of XF-63 mixed with XF-52, the areas that are meantto keep this color will be masked using Tamiya masking tape

Inspiration; the only way to ever getanything done!

Both the inspirational photographsand artwork in Tiger I on the easternfront served to really give me a pushto finish this model.

The paint scheme chosen for thevehicle is not copied specifically ofany particular vehicle in the pho-tographs (these were however used forinspiration), but is rather representa-tive of them at this point in time,numbers and the battalion emblem(mammoth) were also painted over/ornot visible.

It should also be remembered whendepicting vehicles of a certain timeframe and unit to be aware of the con-ditions they fought in helping to formthe applicable weathering, in this caseat this time the vehicles were running

on frozen ground, snow and ice,therefore covering every thing in Migpigments would be wrong for thistime, the snow camo was also verywhite and stark in order to blend inwith the surrounding area.

The most important step in paint-ing any model is to provide a goodbase or primer coat especially whenmultiple Medias are used; in this caseTamiya grey spray primer was used.

P A I N T I N G

Plastic priming on the kit with light grey colour.

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COLOUR CHART

TAMIYA (synthetic lacquer)AS18 light grey

TAMIYA (acrylics)XF-2 flat whiteXF-52 flat earthXF-63 German grey

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)819 Iraqui sand820 offwhite862 black grey865 oily steel872 chocolate brown884 stone grey

897 bronze green928 light flesh947 red951 white

REMBRANDT (oils)54092 burnt humber54112 burnt Sienna55132 cobalt blue

57012 ivory black

MODEL AIR (acrylics)59 matt varnish

REMBRANDT (pastels)BlackOrange

After masking the model, a thin layer ofXF-2 is airbrushing in all surfaces.

This is how the kit looks after removingmasking tape. We can clearly see the

grey areas; the white areas show somegrey underneath, and there are some

areas where white paint is opaque.

By airbrushing clouds and white paintstreaks we avoid stark contrast createdbetween different camouflage colors,creating a fade between the two.

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Paint chips, scratches and so on, are recreated using 872.

Oil paint treatments. Weve done a general wash using oilpaints 55132 and 57012 to enhance the features and detailsof the kit, rust is conveyed with brush strokes on oil paint54112.

Rust trails on the vertical surfaces are also vertical, ifnecessary oil paint can be smeared using a clean brushsoaked on odorless thinner.

Once weve mat varnished the Tiger, those areas thatappear polished with wear are recreated using a silvercolored pencil.

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Dirt trails from the wheels axis to the ground are createdusing a mixture of oil paints 54092 and 57012.

A figure on wintergarb complements thekit. This figure hasbeen painted with theusual paintingtechniques.

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TipPlace spray can in a cup of hot

water for a couple of minutes, this willincrease temperature and pressureresulting in a finer more even coatespecially in cold weather.

Using airbrush model was given acoat of Tamiya XF-52 flat earth.

Followed by 60% XF-63 Germangrey 20% XF-52 flat earth and 20%thinner avoiding the tracks.

Squiggly patterns were then cut

into masking tape and applied tomodel.

Entire model again avoiding trackswas given a coat of 50% XF-2 flatwhite and thinner.

Model was then masked again withthicker strips of tape, followed by morewhite and thinner again avoiding track.

After removing all masking a pat-tern of clouding (panel fade) andstreaking of white and thinner wasthen applied.

Brush workNow the fun really begins.I love

this part.Would you like chips with that?

Well obviously YES.

Using Model Color paintsChocolate brown chips and scratch-

es are applied, primarily concentrating

The work on this kit, a perfectexample of how you can getwonderful results by assembling agood kit almost right out of the boxwith a minimum of time and effort. 9

Impacts let us see the nakedmetal surface which in turn hasgotten rusty with time. Thiseffect is achieved using acrylicpaint 872 and a few local oilwashes on 54112.

THE TIGER I IN PANZER ACES/ARMOR MODDELS

- DE DIEGO VAQUERIZO, Carlos. Tiger I E, sch. Pz.Abt.509, Panzer Aces No. 1, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 2-18.

- SIERRA GARCA, Alfonso. Tiger I E, sch. Pz.Abt. 502,Panzer Aces No. 4, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 25-33.

- GARCA GZQUEZ, Joaqun. Tiger I Ausf. E SpteProduktion, Panzer Aces No. 6, Accin Press, Madrid,pp.22-39.

- VV.AA. Tiger I special issue, en Panzer Aces No. 12,Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 1-64.

- SIERRA GARCA, Alfonso. Tiger I Ausf. E, sch. Pz.Abt.506, Panzer Aces No. 20, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 52-59.

- AGUILAR MUOZ, Joaqun. Tiger I Ausf. E, sch. Pz.Abt.507, Panzer Aces No. 22, Accin Press, Madrid, pp. 24-33.

on high wear areas like hatches andcorners.

Tools; wooden sections- Iraqi sand,metalbronze green.

Rubber road wheels-black grey.Vision blocksblack grey.Canvas mg cover-stone grey.Exhausts-liberal mottling of choco-

late brown.Fire extinguisher-vermilion.Edges of guide teeth and outer sur-

face of track, drive sprocket teeth andidler wheel rims were dry brushedoily steel.

Oil wash and paintingUsing artist tube oil paints thinned

with odorless solvent.An overall wash of blue and black oil

mixed with mostly odorless solvent was

applied to entire vehicle minus the track,This was then streaked down the

vertical and sloping plates.Pin point washes and streaks of

sienna followed by Sienna/black mixwere then applied.

A thicker mix of Sienna was appliedto exhaust and jack.

A thicker mix of burnt umber andSienna was then applied to tracks.

This was followed by black/burntumber streaks applied to road wheels.

Final touches to the modelFigure and model were given a dust-

ing by airbrush of 20% Model Air mattvarnish and water.

A l itt le si lver ar t ist pencil wasapplied to edges of hatches and otherhigh wear areas.

Glue the figure into vehicle.A little black pastel chalk to the

exhaust outlets (soot).A l itt le orange pastel chalk to

exhausts and jack (rust).

The head and binoculars are fromsome of the Verlinden bulk baggedsets, the body and arms whichrequired a lot of clean up, are from theDragon Flak crew set.

Painting the figure was done entire-ly by brush layering acrylics, usingModel Color paints in a four hour sit-ting late one night, so I apologize for

F I G U R E

10

not taking any progress pics, but justgot in that zone where you cant putthe thing down till its done, my apolo-gies.

Basically using a fine brush paintingwent something like this:

1 sprayed primer grey, likeeverything else

2 face painted Iraqi sand3 highlighted with diluted light flesh4 vermilion diluted for cheeks and

lips5 diluted chocolate brown for

shadows on face6 eyes painted in white, blue then

black grey7 off white for uniform, white for

highlights8 a little diluted grey for shadows

and creases in uniform9 diluted black grey for cap

10 pink for piping on cap11 silver for cap badges

12 bronze green for gloves and collar13 diluted chocolate brown and black

grey for binoculars14 a little khaki to the elbow areas

(dirt)

Remember once you have a basecoat down, diluted layering of darkershades in the recesses and shadowsand lighter in the edges and highlights.

There were a few touch ups and goover.

The kit has been placed on a fairlysimple ground. On the ground we canalso see the turret from a T/34/761941 model (Dragon kit No. 6418)painted green, with ample rusttreatments. The rusty look on the tracks has been

obtained with a number of oil washeson 54112 and 54092. The tracks have

also been treated with 865 appliedwith the dry brush technique to

enhance them.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

- RESTAIN, Jean, Tiger I sur lefront de lst, Histoire &Collections, Paris, 1999.

- SCHNEIDER, Wolfgang, Tigersin combat I, J.J. FeodorowiczPublishing Inc., Manitoba,Canada, 1994.

Pz.K

pfw

. VI

Tig

er A

usf.

H1

(Sd.

Kfz

. 181

), s

ch. P

z.A

bt. 5

02, L

ake

Lado

ga, U

.S.S

.R.,

Feb

ruar

y 19

43.

Pz.K

pfw

. VI

Tig

er A

usf.

H1

(Sd.

Kfz

. 181

), s

ch. P

z.A

bt. 5

03, S

sarm

atsk

aja,

U.S

.S.R

., F

ebru

ary

1943

.

12

Pz.B

ef.W

g. T

iger

Aus

f. E

(Sd

.Kfz

. 268

), 4

. Kp.

/SS-

Pz.R

gt. 1

, Kha

rkov

, U.S

.S.R

., A

pril

1943

.

Pz.K

pfw

. VI

Tig

er A

usf.

E (

Sd. K

fz. 1

81),

sch

. Pz.

Abt

. 503

, Kur

sk, U

.S.S

.R.,

Jul

y 19

43.

13

14

efore the war all availablematerial was put into service.

The Humber Automobiles Beaveretteis a case in point. This vehicle had a

lightweight armoring and was armedwith a machine gun. The RAF used itfor security purposes in a number ofairfields, and the army used it as a

lightweight reconnaissance vehicle.When the war began, the British Armyalready had a successor for theBeaverette, the outstanding Daimler

In 1939 British authorities were concentrated on the production of armoredchars, and neglecting the development of other armored vehicles. This was the

main cause for the lack of armored reconnaissance vehicles on that period.

By: Juan Carlos Toledo Miranda Pictures by the author and Fernando Caellas Planchuelo

Bronco 1/35

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Dingo. Several companies were com-missioned to develop and build similarvehicles, able to undertake exploratorymissions and identify enemy positions,locate mine fields and other obstacles,clear away roads for the passing con-voys, escort and backup.

One of these companies was theRootes group that began manufactur-ing in 1942 an armored vehicle similarto the Dingo but somewhat heavierand larger, sitting two crewmen andwith a No. 19 radio equipment and alight Bren machine gun on a ParrishLakeman mount on the roof thatcould be handled from the inside of thevehicle.

The Humber Mk. I began servicein 1943, and was widely used in north-ern Africa and Europe by a number ofarmored, engineer, artillery and com-

mand units. In 1945 manufacturingceased (along with the war) but it wasstil l widely used in countries likeMalaysia, Denmark, Belgium, Hollandand France. France even used it inIndochina against the Viet-Minh.

Up until recently, most hobby kitmanufacturers centered their produc-tion mainly in German, American andRussian vehicles. Most other countrieswere poorly represented if ever at all.Hobbyists determined to display rarevehicles in their shelves had to getexpensive and hard to get resin kits.The Bronco brand has decided (luckilyfor us all) to release a series of unusualBritish vehicles, and from other nation-alities as well.

Generally speaking this Bronco refer-ence is a great quality kit. Still it has anumber of glitches that are not under-standable in view of the overall qualityof the kit. The kit features a fullydetailed interior (motor included) asmall photo etched sheet and vinyltires. Oddly enough the kit includes aresin figure of the British actor MichaelCaine who appeared on one of thesevehicles in Sir Richard AttenboroughsA bridge too far.

I must confess that I dont usuallyfollow instruction sheets. I just look forthe pieces in it, and assemble the kitfollowing my own logic and intuition. Iusually start with a base and keepadding details from the bigger to thesmallest pieces. This is generally not

THE KIT

ASSEMBLY

what the manufacturer intends, but itmakes sense to me because you donthave to constantly look back and forthinto the sheet.

Letting this matter aside, I didnthave a hard time at all assembling thisBronco kit. However I had to correct anumber of things that I will deal withbelow.

Once I assembled both halves of thehull, the rear of the vehicle caught myattention: The ventilation grille on themotor was poorly executed. I had tosubstitute it with Plasticard sheet0,5mm thick for the lateral pieces, and0,4mm thick for the horizontal ones. Idid the same on the ventilation open-ing on the hull right underneath themotor grille. Then I glued the frontfenders; they didnt fit too well, so I

had to adjust them a little using puttyand sandpaper. I will also mention therear fenders; I had to glue L shapedfastenings (made out of 0,3mm thickPlasticard sheet) on their lower part tohold them fast. Oddly enough theseL shaped pieces are not included onthe Eduard photo etched sheet.

The motors hood on the front partof the vehicle has a rugged and irregu-lar surface and its excessively long. Inorder to fix this you can use the photoetched parts, but these dont fit well on

The rear hasbeen partiallyrebuilt usingPlasticard sheet.The fendershave beentrimmed downusing 400grsandpaper andhave beendetailed withPhoto Etchedsupports.

Injection molded Bronco Kit with anAlpine resin figure, Czech MasterResin wheels and Eduard PhotoEtched parts.

Ive placed some Italeri fuel cans on the right side.

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the hull, so I chose to sand the originalBronco piece.

The base for the antennas needed acover that was made using 0,3mmthick Plasticard sheet and screws thatwere made with a hole puncher(0,5mm diameter). The conical base onthe rear antenna was replaced by anEvergreen rod modeled with a smallfile. I also placed a small steel rod

(0,5mm diameter) on the upper partand a Bronco Butterfly Wing nut onone side.

I placed on the front part of myvehicle the pieces that make up theheadlights and the claxon, and I creat-ed cables for these items using 0,2mmcopper wire. Here I also substituted therod for the right rear view mirror for asection of 0,3mm thick copper wire.

The frontal axis has been detailedwith brake cables. The small metalpieces are found on the Eduard PhotoEtched sheet.

The shaft of the rearview mirror andthe cables on the headlights are

different sections of copper wire.

KITS USED

Kit:-Humber scout car Mk. I, Broncoref. 35009, scale 1/35.

Photo Etched Sheet:-Humber scout car Mk. I, Eduardref. 36012.

Accessories:-Single wing nuts, Bronco ref. AB3501.-Butterfly wing nuts, Bronco ref.AB 3503.-Jerricans, Italeri ref. 402.-Wheels, Czech Master Kit ref.3081.

Figure:-WW 2 British tank crew No. 2,Alpine ref. 35049.-Heads, Hornet ref. HH 18.

The motors cover has been trimmed down with a small file.

Most period pictures of the vehicledemonstrate that the left rear view mir-ror was either removed or never placed,so I decided to do likewise. I alsoworked on the latches of the frontalboxes using the photo etched sheetand Broncos single wingnuts.

The assembly of thelower part of the vehiclewasnt especially difficult,

I just had to make the brake tubes onthe front and be careful with thesesmall delicate pieces. I substituted thesilencer on the exhaust by another onemade with an Evergreen rod and Plasti-card strips.

The wheels on the kit are acceptablebut I chose to replace them with theresin ones found on the Czech MasterKit, which are better dimensioned andsculpted. I had to use the Bronco coverof the central transmission, change thedistribution of the screws, and put0,3mm copper wire for the valve for theinflatable chamber of each tire.

Once Ive assembled the remainingphoto etched pieces from the Eduardsheet I placed a couple of Italeri fuelcans on the right side, and consideredthe whole thing finished.

I primed the entire kit using synthet-ic grey Tamiya lacquer. It was appliedwith my airbrush kit, so I had to emptythe Tamiya spray on a container first.

After a couple of hours I airbrushedthe base color, which is about 70% XF-51, and 30% XF-60. Afterwards, inorder to get the highlights right I stud-ied how light hits the vehicle: all hori-zontal areas and those areas which areslightly sloped would get the strongesthighlights. I added more XF-60 to theprevious mixture and applied this usingmy airbrush kit. Those parts with agreater exposure to light would getlighter colors, so I kept adding XF-60 tothe mixture and even added somewhite to do the upper surface.

The Humber looked at this stage alittle like light sand, but I wasnt wor-ried because later colors and the ageingprocesses tend to darken up things. Ihowever corrected the sandy look byadding some enamel f ilters using

Molaks 1105M highlydiluted in the brands ownthinner. Now the vehiclelooked greenish.

I let the vehicle dry upfor a couple of days, andapplied all decals with theusual Micro Set and MicroSol products, and appliedsome dust on the lower,frontal, rear, and wheelareas using Tamiyaacrylics XF-59 and XF-52.I was now ready to melt

a few oil paints using sand and beigetones applied cloudily on the horizon-tal surfaces, and in vertical trails on thevertical surfaces. I also melted smallportions of ivory black oil and 56 onthe areas exposed to the hands andfeet of the crewmen, and the motorscover. The lower areas got a number ofsand colored oil washes to convey mudand sand. I also used dark colors like78 to create some depth. The motorscover and the rear fenders I put oil 80to convey oil and grease stains.

At this stage I decided to increasethe dirt effects on the lower and

The area were the pilotseats, on the fenders,theres a darker area thathas been made using anoil mixture of ivory blackand 78 this gives a senseof depth.

Decals have been treated with theMicro Sol and Micro Set products, and

their gloss was covered under anairbrushed layer of Gunze Sangyos

matt acrylic varnish.

P A I N T I N G

The varied nuances on the paintjobhave been obtained with small

amounts of oil paint smeared throughthe kits surface using a brush and

enamel thinner.

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19

wheel areas. I did a few local ModelColor acrylic washes on 983, 921, 875,977 and Panzer Aces 316. I did thepaint chips and scratches that conveywear, mixing acrylics 320 and 977 andapplying this in small dots and thinlines on certain parts of the kit. I used302 for the deepest paint chips.

Then I did some profile enhancingof the vehicles lines and volume usinga brush and a mixture of oil paints 78and 80 highly diluted on Tamiyasenamel thinner. I also did some specific

acrylic shading using my airbrush kit,and XF-1 and XF-10 on all corners andends.

Those areas that are subject to directcontact with the hands of the crewmen;hatches edges, trap doors etc. are usual-ly darker and a bit shiny. I mimicked thisusing a cotton swab and graphite pow-der. I also applied this on the areas that

require a polished metal effect such asscratches and paint chips.

I applied some Mig Productionspowdered color pigments on the lowerand wheel areas to create larger mudparticles that usually adhere on thoseareas.

The woodenhandles on the

tools are paintedwith 875, and the

upper part hasbeen lighted up

using 315 and thelower one has

been darkenedwith 950.

The metallic part of the tools hasbeen treated with graphite powder

simply obtained by sanding the leadon a pencil.

The lower areas of the armored vehicle have been treated with oil and acrylic paints in earth-like colors. Powderedpigments contribute to create the texture of adhered dust.

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COLOUR CHART (Humber)

TAMIYA (surface primer)AS18 light greyTAMIYA (acrylics)XF-1 flat blackXF-2 flat whiteXF-10 flat brownXF-51 khaki drabXF-52 flat earthXF-59 desert yellowXF-60 dark yellowMOLAK (enamels)1105M Marine greenGUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)H20 flat clearTITAN (oils)56 ultramarine deep78 burnt umber80 bitumen82 ivory black92 yellow ochre reddish94 gold ochre transparentMAIMERI (oils)131 yellow ochre161 raw Sienna493 raw umberMODEL COLOR (acrylics)875 beige brown921 English uniform977 desert yellow983 flat earthPANZER ACES (acrylics)302 dark rust315 light mud316 dark mud320 French tankcrewMIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)P028 Europe dust

I used a number of British referencepictures taken in Germany towards thefinal weeks of WWII. Theres a widerange of reference materials of thisnature available in specialty stores andhobby shops.

The ground was fairly simple andwas sculpted using Das Pronto model-ing paste. I spread the paste on a pieceof isolating material used for buildinghomes. Before this paste was totallydry, I glued some sand on top usingregular carpenters glue diluted in

water. The wooden fence was builtwith small wooden pieces used forbuilding model ships. I followed myresearch materials I fixed it to theground using metallic pegs on the doorjambs.

I used Tamiyas XF-52 and XF-59 forthe ground, and shaded it later on witha number of oil paint washes on 78and Molaks 129M. I enhanced thegrounds texture using Model Colors977 applied with the dry brush tech-nique.

I painted the fence using a mixtureof XF-18 and XF-14, increasing the

All details and the edges of thearmored planks have been enhancedusing dark oil paints. This effect was

further enhanced by airbrushing ahighly diluted mixture of Tamiyas

XF-10 and XF-1.

BACKGROUND

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COLOUR CHART (Background)

TAMIYA (acrylics):XF-2 flat whiteXF-3 flat yellowXF-5 flat greenXF-14 J.A. greenXF-18 medium blueXF-52 flat earthXF-55 deck tanXF-59 desert yellowMODEL COLOR (acrylics)977 desert yellowTITAN (oils)78 burnt umberMOLAK (enamels)129M dark earth

The synthetic gloss on the artificial grass has beeneliminated by sprinkling a mixture of Tamiyas mattgreen and matt yellow. The Verlinden Productionsposter (ref. 014) has been weathered with a wash on oilpaint 78.

The telegraph post is a wooden rod with two isolatingcovers made with a plastic rod shaped up with a file. Thecables have been made using copper wire painted black.

The lines on the wooden surfaceshave been enhanced with oil washeson 78. The lower areas receivegreater amounts of this paint, andthus convey dirt.

The paint on the fence features somescratches that let you see the non-weathered look of wood underneath.This has been done by sanding (using400gr. sandpaper) certain areas.

amount of the last one as I was gettingfarther from the ground. I used a mix-ture of Tamiya acrylics XF-2 and XF-55on the door. The ageing of these ele-ments was done with oil paint washeson 78.

Alpine is one of the best manufac-turers on the market for figures meantto be displayed with military vehicles.They are perfectly dynamic and have

F I G U R E

22

perfect modeling details and 1/35 scaleproportions. The figure I used is ref.35049; it fits perfectly into the Hum-bers hatch without having to do

retouches. I only replaced the figureshead for a Hornet reference with atwisted neck.

I painted the figure with my airbrush

kit using Model Color acrylics. I used879 as my base color, and then I creat-ed some highlights with 977. Iincreased the highlights as I got closer

The areas around the hatches and the sills that guide them when they are going to open up have been treated withgraphite powder.

The figures helmet has been paintedusing the same techniques used onthe vehicle. On a XF-51 base lightedup with XF-4, I have applied anumber of Humbrol enamel filters on26 and 62.

Paint chips and scratches on thehelmet have been recreated using302, 327 and 948 all Panzer Aces andModel Color references.

When using a brush to retouchhighlights and doing some shadows inthe overall, I have used a few dropsof 596. The gloves in 941 colour havebeen highlighted with 873 and 981.

23

COLOUR CHART (Figure)

MODEL COLOR (acrylics):596 glaze medium872 chocolate brown873 Us field drab879 green brown941 burnt umber948 golden yellow950 black951 white977 desert yellow981 orange brown

HUMBROL (enamels)26 matt khaki62 matt leather

TAMIYA (acrylics)XF-4 yellow greenXF-51 khaki drab

PANZER ACES (acrylics)302 dark rust327 Italian tankcrew

to the figures head, and even addedsome white on the final ones on hisshoulders. I did the shadows prettymuch the same way, but using 872. Itried to darken the figure considerablyin those areas that would fit inside the

vehicle. I even used 950 on the lowerpart of the figures legs. When I wasdone, I did some brush touch-upsusing the same colors, using tech-niques that have been widely discussedelsewhere.

The emblem is a blue shield with a yellow outer edge with an eye inside it, and it belongs to the British ArmouredGuards Division.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- WHITE, B.T. British Tank Mark-ings and Names, Arms & ArmourPress, London, 1978.

- FLETCHER, David. British Tanksof WW II (1) France & Belgium1944, in Armor at war series n7027, Concord Publications, HongKong, 2000.

24

R E P O R T A G E

Pictures taken by Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos in the War & Peace Show at Beltring UK.

With a 6 cylinder motorand 87cv that propelled

the vehicle at a maximumspeed of 72 Km/hour, this

all terrain 3,4 t armoredvehicle could operate in a

radius of 320 km. 1698units were made of the

Mk. I version only.

Here we have a detailshowing the frontdrivers sight on the openposition. We can also seethe opening lock and thewindow cleaners.

25

On top of the front fenders you can see some woodenboxes for carrying equipment. We can also see on thispicture the support for the headlight.

The case forthe radioantennas isplaced on topof the rearleft fender.Slightlyfurther downwe can see afireextinguisher.

Every rear fender had a structure for holding two flimsyfuel cans. These fragile cans broke more often than noton the bumpy road.

26

The long air intake slits located on the removable cover on the back, were there to cool the motor.

The big box on the right side was used to hold food rations, manuals, clothes and a portable kitchen.

27Two men manned the vehicle, but the Humber Scout Mk. I had a collapsible third seat. The thickest spot on the armoredvehicle was 14mm thick.

On the back of the vehicle we can see the armored protection for the motors venting hole.

30

n World War I (1914-18) theyalso fought inside of the 92ndInfanteriedivision and in World

War II it fought in the 31st Infanteriedi-vision in Poland, Belgium and Franceand they ultimately fought against theSoviet Union in 1941.

It fought with great determination inthe eastern front and suffered numer-ous casualties. In 1943, it fought in 28of the roughest battles, becoming theGrenadierregiment 17. During this peri-od 35 out of 70 officers fell on duty;towards the end of the year out of thegrand total of 1400 men, only 70 werestill alive. When the Soviets attackedduring the summer of 1944, the 31stInfanteriedivision (a part now of theXXXIX Panzerkorps of the 4 Armee)was almost annihilated.

This regiment could be identified bythe Skull of the Brunswick Hussards,visible on almost every piece of head-gear. This distinctive was indeed a nar-row skull on top of two crossed tibias.The origin of this design goes back tothe beginning of the nineteenth centu-ry when Frederick Wilhelm, earl ofBrunswick, adopted it for his troops.During W.W.II this emblem was usedby the 17th Infanterieregiment and the13th

This well known resin reference hasall the qualities that Alpine usuallycaters. The only modifications that Isaw fit were to substitute the gun hol-ster by a Luger P08 model and place in

its left hand a resin helmet made by theAires brand. Before doing this I made ahole through the figures fingers andplaced a thin masking tape strip to dubas the helmet strap. I didnt put theBrunswick skull, even if you can see itin a number of period pictures becauseI dont know if the use of this insignia

F I G U R E

The 17th Infanterieregiment was aGerman Army formation which hadan excellent reputation and camefrom a very old military tradition

which goes back to 1809. Thisformation was created in

Braunschweig Prussia, to fightagainst Napoleon in the Austriancampaign. Later on this unit also

played a role in the SpanishIndependence war, and then fought

in the Waterloo battle.

By: Jos Manuel Flores PrezPicture credits: Jordi Escarr Gonzlez

Alpine 1/35

KITS USED

Figure:- Winter Panzer Crew, Alpine ref.

35037, scale 1/35.Complements:- German W.W.II Helmets, Aires

ref. F3001.- German Infantry Equipment Set B,

Tamiya ref. 35205.

31

was permitted on campaigncaps.

After painting the fig-ures face using the sameskin tones used in my pre-vious figure I painted thecap with 830 and highlight-ed it using 860 first andthen 884. I created theshadows by adding pro-gressively 950. I used 951,950 and 926 for the cock-ade and 883 on the 975patch containing the eaglenational emblem and high-lighted using some 951.

I decided to use the Sumpfmuster(literally swamp water) camouflagescheme on the uniform, which is actu-ally a variation on the Splittermuster(Wood splinter). I created the base col-or by mixing 879 and 988, and did thehighlights by adding more of the sec-

ond color. The final highlights alsocontain some white paint. I painted thecamouflage spots using 984 and then Idid some on 823. I recreated thefalling rain lines using 975. Then Imade some highlights using a mixtureof 988 and 821 and diluting both heav-ily on water. I used for the shadows

some highly diluted 872and also added some950. The inside of thereversible coat was paint-ed with 951 dirtied with988; I did some high-lights with 951 but neverused it pure. I used asmall drop of 950 to dothe shadows on theinside of the coat. Thebuttons were done using995 and created somehighlights in them using869.

Once the figure wasfinished I airbrushed it with mat var-nish and put some dirt on the figurespants and boots using different shadesof brown. In order to blend the figurewith the ground I put some dirt also onthe lower part of the coat, the elbowsand knees.

The figures face on 876 has been highlighted andthen shadowed with 815 and 814 respectively.

The felt on the upper part of the figures boots hasbeen painted 987, and has been shadowed with awash on 941. The leather parts have been paintedjust like the belt except for the reinforcement onthe heel which has been painted adding 981.

Sumpfmuster. J. F. Borsarello.

32

C O L O U R C H A R T

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)510 glossy varnish814 brunt cad. red815 basic skintone821 Germ. cam beige WWII823 Luffwaffwe cam. green830 German fieldgrey WWII833 Germ. cam. bright green841 Andrea blue850 medium olive856 grey green860 medium fleshtone869 basalt grey872 chocolate brown876 brown sand

879 green brown883 silver grey884 stone grey926 red941 burnt umber950 black951 white975 military green981 orange brown984 flat brown987 medium grey988 khaki995 German greyMODEL AIR (acrylics)059 mat varnish

The belt contains a mixture of984 and 950 highlighted withsmall amounts of 856. The sownarea close to the buckle has beenpainted with 951 stained with856.

The black NCO patch on thefigures left arm has some 850bars that have been lighted up

using 833.

I used small branches to create asmall rural fence as seen on a numberof period pictures of German soldierson the Eastern Front. I used a thin cop-per wire to tie the branches into afence simulating rope. Then I glued thefence on the base and modeled theground using Das Pronto paste. I creat-ed a few footprints, glued (using car-penters glue) a few small stones and afew natural shrubs.

I used several dark brown shades topaint it all, and mixed them with glossvarnish to convey mud.

I dedicate this review to the mem-bers of the Grupo de ReconstruccinHistrica 17 InfanterieRegiment andin special to Oblt. Von der Platz, toUnteroffizier Fritz, to Gefreiter Gn-ter to Obergrenadier Anton and toGrenadier Michael.

B I B L I O G R A P H Y

- DE LAGARDE, Jean. German Sol-diers of the WWII, Histoire &Collections, Paris, 1995.

- RECIO CARDONA, Ricardo, andGONZLEZ SNCHEZ, Antonio.German Army Uniforms (HEER),Accin Press, Madrid, 2002.

- PETERSON, Daniel. WehrmachtCamouflage Uniforms & Post-WarDerivatives, in Europa MilitariaNo. 17, Histoire & Collections,Paris, 1995.

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35

hen working on a 1/72 scalewe will f ind a number ofavailable kits, and we can

always use model train collector kits inthe H0 scale, but when working on the1/35 range we can find very few thingson the market. This is basically the rea-son why whenever I find a kit like thisCMK resin reference I buy it withouthesitation

Hobbyists that create dioramas usual-ly plan their work right to the smallestdetail. They usually follow strict compo-sition rules, and calculate each accesso-ry that will end up in the finished work.In other words; they closely follow ascript that they have created.

I work in a much more anarchicfashion. Im sure that it is for worse,but thats the only way for me to havefun, and enjoy the hobby.

The only thing that was on my mindwhen I began the diorama was to makethe crane the central piece on myvignette. Thats why I assembled it firstso I could figure out its dimensionsand more specifically its height. Obvi-ously there should be something hang-ing from the crane, but I was not yetsure of what. I tried to imagine a hugeSturmtiger with full a crew loadingammo, but I dismissed it as somethingmuch too obvious and large.

I was looking for something real andyet unusual, and I was also determined

to use those Dragon train platforms thatI treasure at home. Finally, my friendJuan Avils gave me the clue: The anti-airplane Flak.Sw. 36 reflector made byAFV kits! I used two of those plus threeor four figures to manipulate the craneand hold the reflector.

Once the crane was assembled, Iposted some pictures on Panzernet, inorder to get some constructive feedbackfrom fellow hobbyists. This kind of feed-back is crucial for correcting eventualmistakes, which would be impossible tocorrect when having everything already

Im not a model train collector, and yet trains have always held some sway overme. A diorama or a military vignette becomes especially attractive when it has

a simple slope with a couple of rails and a signal.

By: Javier Franco Manzano Pictures by the author and Ral Fernndez Ruiz

CMK/Dragon/AFV Club 1/35

This resin CMK reference includes asmall wagon, the pieces fit well

together and the instruction sheet iscrystal clear. In order to create a solid

kit I recommend using fast twocomponent glue.

A S S E M B L Y

M O N T A J E

KITS USED

36

The stairs and the railing have been created with Evergreen plastic strips. The textured (anti-slip) steps have been taken from a generic Aber Photoetched sheet.

This Dragon kit is outstanding, and the only thing I had tofix were the circular mold ejector marks on some spots.This was easily done using putty and sandpaper.

I adjusted the size (for fitting it on the base) by cutting itat an angle with a small saw.

The small AFV reflector had a fairshare of molding residue, and the

instruction sheet was not too clear. Ipainted the inside of the reflector On

Tamiyas X-11 before gluing thetransparent plastic piece.

Kits:60cm Flakscheinwerfer (Flak.Sw. 36) mitSd.Ah. 51, AFV Club ref. 35125, 1/35scale.German Railway Gondola, Dragon ref.6086, 1/35 scale.Built up Structures:Kohlenkran DR, Railway coaling crane,CMK ref. RA033.River embankment, VerlindenProductions ref. 1546.Railway section, Dragon ref. 3825.Photoetch:Engrave plates, Aber ref. PP03.Accessories:Tile, Evergreen ref. 4507.Field tool shop, Italeri ref. 419.Figures:German engineers, Verlinden Productionsref. 676.German tankman working, Wolf ref.WAW24.German tank crew at work, Mini Art.35010.Heads, Honet refs. HH04 y HGH01.

assembled. Tomek Rogala, a Polish hob-byist specialized in buildings and modeltrains, suggested to place a coal shackclose to the crane (usually made out ofwood planks) because this was usuallykept right by the machinery.

The inclusion of this shack ordeposit would have ruined my originalintentions of creating a small vignette,so I began to do my homework, andlaid out a plan on paper with the craneon top to figure out the dimensions

and layout. I finally decided to partiallycut both the deposit and the platform,thus reducing the dimensions of thebase to 27x21cm.

The wall on the platform comes from a Verlinden embankment kit. The pavement on the upper area is an Evergreenreference with floor tiles in it. The sides of the scene were framed with balsa wood that was treated with a steel brushand wood pore cover varnish.

37

38

The small wagon on Model Color302 has been treated with oilpaints 78, 74, 82, and 10. Rusttrails have been recreated usingwashes on powdered pigmentP025, dragging the brush up anddown.

All objects have been painted using my airbrush kit with Tamiya colors. Dirt has been created using oil paint. Oil paintcan be easily smeared by using odorless thinner, and we can get some startling effects.

The welding bottles are anItaleri reference. They areperfect for filling emptyspaces. They were paintedin different colors to breakthe color monotony.

39

Background:I began painting the platform; base

color Tamiyas XF-20 was airbrushedthroughout. I then created some colorvariety by mixing this color with similarTamiya tones, and used some maskingto paint a few distinct floor tiles. I alsoairbrushed the area around the coaldeposit in mat black overtones highlydiluted using Gaianotes thinner. Then Idid a few general paint washes usingdark colored oil paints to enhance linesand features. I also created a few stainsby melting several oil references directlyon the floor tiles and tapped my thinner(Odorless Windsor & Newton) soakedbrush on the stained tiles.

I then took to the rails; I primedthem using flat black paint, and air-brushed highly diluted XF-60. By doingthis, the dark base paint will showthrough the lighter color. Afterwards Itook my brush and painted the woodplanks on the rails using oil paint 77. Iwent again over some random tiles toobtain different tone effects, and thenused a mixture of oil paints 74 and 88. Ialso lighted up the prominent edges ofthe tiles using the dry brush technique(see Panzer Aces/Armor Models No.13). The rails were given then a washof Mig Productions P025 pigment,highly diluted on Windsor & Newtonthinner. Polished worn metal on therails (due to constant contact with thepassing train wheels) was created by

rubbing graphite powder obtained bysanding pencil lead.

The crane assembly was painted intwo blocks; the casemate on one hand,

and the metal platform and the craneon the other. I began with the case-mate, airbrush priming the areas madeof concrete using Tamiyas XF-2 andXF-57. I added some vertical dirt trailsby varying the proportions of the mix-ture. Then I recreated the damp anddirt spots on the lower areas using oilpaints 78 and 97 applied with a half-dry brush technique. I also did a num-ber of dirt trails by melting a number ofoil paint references directly on the wallsusing a brush loaded with thinner.Once it was all dry, and in order toenhance the dirtiness of coal, I air-brushed dark colored powdered pig-ments on the tiled surface around thewall and coal deposit. I had to dilutepowder using my trustworthy Windsor

The techniques used for painting thereflectors are basically the same onesused for painting vehicles. Base coloron this one is XF-63.

Grease stains are made using oil paint 80 mixed withcolor pigment P028 europe dust (MIG).

Between the rails I placed a few leaves and a few food cansmade out of soft drink straws (see Modelling Lessons inPanzer Aces/Armor Models No. 28)

Ive placed on the sides of theplatform the excellent transfers created by Archer. The dust filled look has been obtained by doing a few washes on oil paint 10.

Small sized objects like this Italeritool box bring some credibility to thescene.

P A I N T I N G

& Newton thinner and perform a thor-ough cleansing of the airbrush appara-tus after use.

The metal platform, the railings andthe staircase were painted XF-5. Aftersevere oil wash and pigment treatmentsof these, I took Panzer Aces 302 andcreated a number of paint chips andscratches using my brush. I used a smallsponge for creating larger paint chips. Iused Tamiyas XF-63 on the machineryand arm of the crane. I lighted up thiscolor using XF-19, and shaded it withXF-1. This work is almost concealedunder the ageing processes, but they arenevertheless there to break the colormonotony of such a monochromaticmachine. Then I created the well knownpolished metal effect on the ridges that

needed it, on the machinery and also onthe steps using graphite powder appliedwith a brush. I also did a number ofgrease stains using oil paint 80 mixedwith Mig Productions P028.

Platform: The hull of the railway platform was

airbrushed using Tamiyas XF-63, and Ienhanced certain ridges by adding XF-20 to the mixture to create a couple ofhighlights. Now I had to apply a num-ber of decals from the Archer decal seton German train stations (ref.AR35087). Then I did a few dark oilwashes (78, 82 and 88), when thosewere dry I used a thin brush to applyPanzer Aces 302 in a wide array ofpaint chips and scratches. This wear isto be expected on a loading platform

that sees much use and little mainte-nance. I also used a small sponge toapply paint chips on the top of thewagons. I dont usually like this tech-nique, because the results are usuallyrather gross and can hardly be con-trolled. This technique is however rec-ommended on large surfaces. Then Idid a few rust trails emanating fromsome paint chips. I used oil paint 78 fordoing this, and spread this carefullyusing a very thin brush.

The wooden surface was first givenairbrush priming in Tamiyas XF-1,immediately afterwards I painted eachpiece of timber using Panzer Aces 310and 311 and randomly adding smallamounts of blue, green, red, grey inorder to get different tones. The differ-ence may be subtle, but there are nottwo identical pieces of timber. Thewood planks on the rails are just thesame plus I went over all these using oil

40

COLOUR CHART

TAMIYA (acrylics):X-11 chrome silver (enamel)XF-1 J.N.greenXF-2 flat whiteXF-5 flat greenXF-8 flat blueXF-19 sky greyXF-20 medium greyXF-57 buffXF-60 dark yellowXF-63 German greyPANZER ACES (acrylics)302 dark rust307 red tail light308 green tail light310 old wood311 new wood334 German Tkcr. I (Feldgrau)338 highlight Ger. I (Feldgrau)342 highlight fleshMODEL COLOR (acrylics)815 basic skinstoneTITAN (oils)6 zinc white10 Naples yellow reddish74 raw umber77 sepias78 burnt umber80 bitumen84 lamp black88 yellow ochre97 earth greenMIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)P023 black smokeP025 standar rustP028 Europe dust

The reflector paintedon Tamiyas XF-60has been hanged onthe crane using threadused for model kitboats.

All figures have beenpainted with acrylics

following the usualtechniques. All pantshave been painted in

Panzer Acesfeldgrau color.

41Coal can be found on pet shops. I scaled it down by smashing it, and then glued it to the ground using carpenters whiteglue thinned out in water.

paint 77 varying the amount of paint inmy brush for each one.

I waited for a couple of days untilpaint had fully cured, and then I did anumber of dirt trails on the hull using

oil paint 10. This reference was alsoused to create a layer of dirt on theentire platform but applied with anoverall wash. While this paint washwas still fresh, I painted grease stainsusing oil paint 80.

Reflectors:I painted one reflector on Tamiyas

XF-63, and the other one on XF-60. Thetreatment for these was pretty muchthe same treatment applied on basicallyany other military vehicle: A couple of

42

airbrushed highlights using a lightershade of the base color; an initial highlydiluted dark oil wash to make detailsstand out; melting small portions of oilrefs. (6, 88, 74, 78, and 97) to createsome nuances, color ranges and dirt;

scratches on the lighted up base color,and scratches using PA 302.

Figures: Strange as it may seem, it was painful-

ly difficult to find figures in the adequateclothes, and the adequate poses for this

scene in particular. I used two Verlindenengineers and a Wolf tank crewmanwithout his jacket, all of them made ofresin. I had to use a plastic figure for themechanic that handles the reflector man-ufactured by Mini Art. These plastic fig-ures are made in very realistic poses, butthe sculpting is truly awful. I changed afew arms here and there in order toadjust the figures to the necessary poses,and also replaced all heads for Hornet ref-erences, which are outstandingly wellmodeled.

Theres not much I can contribute tothe world in terms of figure painting,considering that Im a rather mediocrefigure painter myself. I only started paint-ing figures a couple of years ago, and didit because my friend Fernando Sanzceased to do so for me. He has no timenow and had to start doing it myself. Iwas forced to do it, and I dont reallyenjoy it. Maybe if I improve and begin tosee positive results, I will enjoy it then.

At any rate, and from my humble per-spective, here are a few pieces of advicefor beginners:

Always choose a well sculpted figure,even if it costs more money. Verlindenand Wolf figures are easy to paintbecause they are well sculpted. The plas-tic ones that are lacking in detail were apain to paint.

Hornet heads are simply spectacular,they almost paint themselves; well worthbuying.

When using acrylics, the magicalcolor that works for highlighting almostany color from all color ranges is ModelColors 815. (thanks to Jaume Ortiz)

A nice detail enhancement done witha wash, can improve any dull figure.

Encyclopedias, books and reviews tru-ly are invaluable help, but if you dontactually use them they are worthless.Theory here is quite straightforward, butif you dont use it its only good to talkabout it.

I want to thank Jorge Porto for histeachings; hes an outstanding figureartist.

43

The coal deposit is made of woodplanks obtained from a model boat kit.These planks have glued cardboard onthe back for added strength. This isvegetal coal (the one used for puttinginside fishbowls or aquariums).

ts greatest setbacks were the smallspace allotted to the crewmen andthe gun assembly with limited lat-

eral movement.

The Jagdpanzer 38(t) came after theMarder III (they both had the sameframe) and hit the assembly line on April1944. A little over 2500 units were made

until the end of the war for the Panzer-jgerabteilungen (tank hunter battalions).

Right after the war, Czechoslovakiakept making these and naming them

The Jagdpanzer 38(t) (Sd.Kfz. 138/2) known as the Hetzer was a tank hunterbased on the modified frame of a Check 38(t) Panzer. It was developed as a fasterand more economic manufacturing option, compared to other ambitious projectssuch as the Jagdpanther or the Jagdpanzer IV. This vehicle was well armored and

armed with a Pak 39 L/48 75mm gun. The vehicle was trustworthy and wasperfect for ambushes.

By: Joaqun Garca Gzquez Pictures by the author. Color profiles by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Tamiya 1/48

44

G13s. 158 units were expor ted toSwitzerland. As a matter of fact, theSwiss army kept them in service untilthe 60s.

Assembly and detailing of this kitwas rather simple, I literally assembled itin one afternoon. I detailed the kit usinga Fine Molds tin gun and a VoyagerModels photo etched sheet, which defi-nitely improves on some of the existingpieces. Im thinking for instance on thelateral armoring panels and the motorgrilles.

There are several ways of creatingwinter camouflage schemes: portrayinga vehicle with a brand new perfect

white paintjob would be one end of thescale, and one worn with almost nowhite paint left would be the other end.From the point of view of the hobbyistsomething in between would be theinteresting thing to achieve. This wouldbe the ideal compromise between realityand the looks that a model kit requires.It is always crucial however; to alwayshave around real pictures of the vehicleyou wish to portray.

Base Color:Original factory paint Dunkelgelb RAL

7028 was conveyed using Life ColorsUA204. I wanted to create a lot of con-trast between this color and the whitecamouflage paint on top, so I didnt doany of the usual highlights or shadows.

Once paint dried out well I placedthe decals (the three black crossesincluded in the kit) using both theMicro Set and the Micro Sol decal fixingproducts. Next I covered the entire kitwith a layer of acrylic satin varnish.

Camouflage:I chose Humbrols 34 enamel in order

to be able to partially remove it (as inreal life) with enamel thinner whichdoes not affect the acrylic factory colorunderneath.

First I used a little Maskol to protectthe decals and proceeded to cover thekit with several thin layers of enamelpaint. I allowed paint to dry up forabout 15-20 minutes and then proceed-ed to partially remove it using Humbrolenamel thinner and a brush. I obtainedthe results and textures pictured byusing both cylinder tipped brushes andflat tipped brushes. I soaked my brusheson the thinner can and did a number ofvertical brush strokes through the kit,dragging paint down insisting on theareas that required more wear.

In order to accentuate contrast onsome areas I used my base color andwent over those areas that were leftwithout white camouflage paint.

Mud adhered on thewheels and the lowerareas have been createdwith a thin layer of puttythinned with acetoneapplied with an old stiffbrush.

The inside of the hatcheshas been given detail withthin plasticard sheet. Themetallic photo etchedarmored protection plankshave been slightly dentedto convey use.

A S S E M B L Y

KITS USED

Kit:- German Tank Destroyer HetzerMid production, Tamiya ref.32511. 1/48 scale.

Photo etched sheet: - WWII Hetzer, Voyager Modelsref. VPE 48008.

Gun: - Hetzer 7.5cm Gun barrel, FineMolds ref. Mk-04.

Figures:- Make Models with Warriorshead. Hecker and Goros.

P A I N T I N G

45

Paint Chips:Using Model Colors 951 I did the

areas that were not worn and still keptmost of their camouflage on. I createdwith this some beautiful nuances andcontrast between the different shapesand colors of the kit. On the areas wereDunkelgelb paint was uncovered I fur-ther enhanced contrast by going overthem again. This time however I usedModel Colors 978 and 819. Then Iused Model Colors 950 and 982 to cre-ate the paint chips that were deepenough to reveal the rusty steel surfaceunderneath.

Once weve airbrushedour base color (Life ColorUA204) we cover the kitwith several thin layersof Humbrol enamel 34.

A few minutes later wecan partially removeenamel paint with differ-ent brushes soaked onthe brands own enamelthinner. The areas with ahigher tendency to wearshould be left with littleor no paint.

After weve painted thegun on XF-7 (this con-veys the real life rustpriming) we proceed tocreate a number of paintchips with Model Coloracrylics and a fairly newbrush.

Oil Paint Treatments:I did an overall oil wash on oil paint 74

to mark the parting lines of the armoredplanks and shade the kit a little. Once itdried out I melted a number of differentoil paints throughout, to give the kit a lit-tle chromatic variation. You could actuallyuse any yellow or tan reference. I used oilpaints 6, 92, 78, 88, and 94.

Once I finished doing the usual paintchips on the exhaust I did a number ofdark oil paint washes. Then I createdthe exhausts texture using Mig Produc-tions powdered color pigments P025and P030 which in turn were fixed withthe last oil reference listed above welldiluted in enamel thinner- of course.

Oil and grease stains on the motors

cover and on the axis of some of thewheels were made using oil paints 84and 80. The shine of these paints wasleft untouched on some areas. This canbe done by var ying the amount ofenamel thinner you put on your oilpaint: little or no thinner will keep theshine on the paint.

46

The lower areas:All those areas that were previously

(in the assembly stage) textured usingputty were now going to get some pow-dered color pigments that will adherewith oil paint washes. I mixed pigmentsP028 and P039 with oil paints 74, 104etc. and allowed some drying timebetween washes to avoid smudging thearea. I repeated the process a number oftimes until I got a very convincingresult.

I painted the tracks before gluingthem to the kit. I covered them with alayer of Tamiyas XF-52 and then createdthe areas that show polished-worn met-al underneath using the dry brush tech-nique and Citadels Boltgun Metal paint.I finished the tracks by applying thesame oil paint washes and powdered

color pigments used earlier on the restof the vehicle.

Now I just needed to put some iceand snow on the tracks. I used AldaModels artificial snow; this is a pow-dered product that can be used withwhite carpenters glue and some water. Iused a thin brush to place smallamounts of this mixture on the kit. Thefinal step was to partially cover the trackarea using Micros gloss varnish thinnedout with distilled water to give it a colddamp look.

An oil wash onTitans 74 will helpyou enhance thekits features andother details. Wealso apply alongwith the oil wash afew rust coloredpowdered pig-ments on theexhaust area.

Powdered colorpigments are

applied on thelower areas and

fixed with oil paintwashes diluted

with Humbrolenamel thinner- in

different sandtones.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- FRANCEV. Vladimir, K. Climent,Charles and KOPECKY, Milan.Hetzer Jagdpanzer 38, MBI,Prague, 2001.

- ARCHER, Lee and AUERBACH,William. Panzerwrecks 3, LeeArcher, New York. 2006.

- ARCHER, Lee and AUERBACH,William. Panzerwrecks 6, LeeArcher, New York, 2008.

- Several Authors Jagdpanzer38(t) Hetzer, in PanzerAces/Armor Models No. 7(December 2004-January 2005),Accin Press, Madrid, Pgs. 2-26.

47

The ground has been modeled with Das Pronto paste on aflat cork base. Before the product settles we can give itsome texture with a metal brush and adhere to it a fewpebbles and thin sand with white carpenters glue. Thetree is a little thyme branch.

Once weve airbrushed it with a layer of XF-52 darkened with XF-10, we can create someshadows by airbrushing XF-8. The last colorused gives a cold look to the ground whichis very appropriate for the scene.

48

After weve painted the stones with arange of gray colors, we can add therea few nuances by melting some oil

paints.

We fix the artificial snow compoundby first applying on the ground a layer

of white glue and then we powderthe surface. Excess powder can be

blown away. Glossy surfaces are created by spreading white glue

dissolved in water.

COLOUR CHART

LIFE COLOR (acrylics)UA204 dunkelgelb MICROSCALE (varnish)6404 micro glos6405 micro satinHUMBROL (enamels)34 matt whiteMODEL COLOR (acrylics)819 Iraqui sand950 black951 white978 dark yellow982 cavalry brownPANZER ACES (acrylics)325 Russian tankcrew I334 German tkcr. I (Feldgrau)338 Highlight Ger. I (Feldgrau)344 white (German tanker)TITAN (oils)6 zine white74 raw umber78 burnt umber80 bitumen84 lamp black88 yellow ochre92 yellow ochre reddish94 gold ochre transparent104 English red violet502 ABTEILUNG (oils)70 dark rustMIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)P025 standard rustP028 Europe dustP039 indutrial city dirt P230 old rustTAMIYA (acrylics)XF-7 flatXF-8 flat blueXF-10 flat brownXF-52 flat earthCITADEL (acrylics)Boltgun metal

49

Base color for the Feldgendarmes Kradmantel is a mixture of Panzer Aces 334and 325. Highlights are created by increasing the amount of the first color, andshadows are created with Model Colors 950.

The rubbery water proof texture ofthe coat has been created with a layer

of satin varnish. Mud is easily madewith powdered color pigments.

The position of the arms on this figure has been modified to havethem rest adequately on the roof ofthe vehicle.

The winterjacket onPanzer Aces344 is highlightedwith 951;shadows arecreated with325.

As a hobbyist I cant think of aminiature vehicle without a matchingscale figure by its side. Other thanestablishing the scale, a figure takessome of the coldness of a given vehi-cle away, and gives everyone somethingto relate to.

I completed the vehicles scene withtwo figures: A resin driver manufacturedby Make Models (conveniently modifiedto have its right arm resting on thehatch, and its left arm resting on theroof of the casemate) with a Warriorshead. The other figure was an outstand-ing white metal reference an MP byHecker and Goros. I painted both fig-ures with Panzer Aces acrylics using thewell established zenithal lighting tech-nique with the corresponding highlightsand shadows.

We can also put on the tracks some more artificial snow. A layer of gloss varnish will help us convey dampness.

F I G U R E S

50

The area where the Feldgendarme is standing has been given a few oil paint washes to convey trampled muddy snow.

The cork sheet where the ground was modeled was chosen because of its rounded corners this avoids the cutting lines of any given scene.

51

A few views of the reversible winter jacket, which had recycled wool filling on the inside. This item of clothing had acloth belt, two pockets with flaps, hood (no recycled wool filling inside) and buttons on the sleeves to fasten ID tags.The tissue for this jacket was a mixture of cotton and rayon.

52

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53

his vehicle was armed withhybrid recoil- less gun andgrenade launcher that had an

automatic 2A28 reload system. This gunlaunched a PG-15 projectile that worked

at a distance of about 700 meters.When in need for a greater distance,they could launch a 9M14 Malyulka(AT-3 Sagger) missile which was cableguided and had an effective distance of

about 3000 meters. The motor wasplaced on the front, while the troopswere in the rear numbering a total ofeight. All of them had periscopes andholes to shoot from. There were two

When the sixties began back in the XX century, the Soviet Army made anamphibious armored vehicle prototype that revolutionized combat techniques.

This vehicle had mobility, armoring and firepower that were quite unique at the time.

By: Cristbal Vergara Durn Picture Credits: Basilio Tante Daz

DML 1/35

54

large doors on the rear and four hatcheson the roof for gaining access to thevehicle.

The first test vehicles were just calledBMPs and had a few shortcomings interms of suspension and ventilation.The following vehicles improved onthese areas, and also included NBQ warfilters. Their front part was elongated20cm for improving its water worthi-ness. In 1970 they received their finalname: BMP-1. Back then, the SovietArmy was the only one in the worldwith this kind of technology, and wasforced to create new combat tactics forits use because the vehicle was rathershort, and could fire against its owntroops.

During the summer of 1973 theEgyptian Army received 230 BMP-1s

and the Syrian Army at least 150 unitsto use in the Arab-Israeli war that tookplace in the same year. The Egyptiansfound out its abilities and used it tocross the Suez Canal. The vehiclesmost prominent feat at the time was thecrossing of the salt works in Kantara,taking the Israelis by surprise, becauseno regular armored vehicle was able toget there. The Syrians had a poor train-ing, and suffered great losses in theGolan Heights. The BMP-1 also hadsome limitations: The vehicle had nei-ther air conditioning nor ventilation,and sometimes had to operate with theupper hatches open. The Arabs alsocomplained that the vehicle explodedcompletely when hit.

The Soviets used it in combat back in1979 in Afghanistan against the slippery

Taliban and realized that this vehiclehad many shortcomings in the guerrillawarfare arena: Reduced space for thecrew, weak lateral armoring and a limit-ed vertical elevation of the gun that ren-dered the vehicle useless for enemiesambushed high up in the mountains. Asan emergency safety measure, additional(10mm thick) armored planks wereplaced on the sides of the vehicle whichwas now called the BMP-1D. In the mideighties the Soviet took one more stepin its development and solved the prob-lems above and renamed the vehicleBMP-2.

There are still two more commandversions of this vehicle: The BMP-1K,which does not have lateral hatches forthe troops and has better radio equip-ment and antennas, and the BMP-1 KShthat got rid of its weapons altogetherand placed instead a huge telescopicantenna named Top Ball and a num-ber of auxiliary generators.

There are many plastic kits devotedto the BMP-1, but sadly all are equallyawful in terms of detail. I knew that if Iwas to build a BMP, I would choose theDML kit. I bought it many years agowhen it came out and as soon as I sawthe number of mistakes in the kit Iquickly set it aside. About a decade laterI stumbled upon Armour Tracks resinset with new wheels and tracks for thevehicle and decided to resume work.

Basically, all small details are misrep-resented on this Chinese kit. To beginwith, I rebuilt the motors ventilationgrilles (they are solid). I created theproper openings and placed photoetched Aber grilles adapted for the occa-sion. I also created the inner filter usingwavy plasticard sheet used mainly bytrain kit hobbyists.

The edge of the motors access plankcomes with a slot that sticks out toomuch and had to be excised using myhobby knife. On the spot left I tracedthe joint using a scribing tool. Whendoing all this you inevitably wipe off thescrews that surround the slot, so I putnew ones created with a Punch & Diehole puncher.

The opening forthe exhaust hasbeen detailedusing piecesfrom theAirwavesphoto etchedsheet.

55

After creatingthe ventilationholes with ascribing toolIve cut to exactsize some photoetched grillesand glued themon top.

The jointbetween thearmored plankson the motorand the driverscompartmentshave beencreated with ascriber. Theperiscopes aremade by M4Models.

A S S E M B L Y

On the area where the front part of thefender and the barge meet, the shape ofthe pieces isnt bent in the right angle.This means that you will have to do somesanding, and then glue some plasticpieces until you get the right shape.

I began detailing the kit using piecesfrom the two photo etched sheets creat-ed by the Eduard and Airwaves firms.Both are old and below standards andhave many pieces out of scale or simplyuseless. I diminished the height of thesmoke exhaust on the right side of thevehicle, and added a few details usingEvergreen-made pieces and the piecefrom the Airwaves sheet. The fenders inthe rear have oversized deflectors that

had to be replaced with the ones on theEduard sheet.

I also had to put some details on theback doors, because the space for thehinges should be smaller, and the open-ing guides are different. I placed around

every door a frame made of copper wireand built on the roof the bars for thefour hatches using 0,4mm diameter tinwire. I also used this wire to create theprotection around the headlights.

The periscopes of the vehicle are alsovery important. There are a few: eighton the back of the roof, three on theturret, three on the drivers hatch andanother three on the platoon chiefsplace. We have here a grand total ofseventeen periscopes. I got rid of theoversized styrene ones and used properscale resin substitutes created by 4MModels (a Spanish brand).

I continued work on the fasteningsfor the tools and the tow cables, using

copper sheet. I used small pieces ofplastic to create the air intakes on theoutside of this armored vehicle. Thestrips of the welding remains are alsowanting, and had to be recreated usingputty and a very thin brush.

56

The resin wheels have been glued using two component glue. The stops for the first and the sixth come from my sparesbox, and have been detailed using Plasticard.

The gun is analuminumreplacement. On itsupper part (right bythe mantle) Iveplaced a rail for themissile. The rail ismade entirely out ofPlasticard, and it hasbeen detailed withcopper wire.

The headlights come from other kits.The cover around them has beenmade using tin wire.

The base for the antenna is the Armopiece.

I f inished work by replacing theantennas support and the gun withexcellent metal substitutes created byArmo (the Polish brand) and Altitude-ACC (the Russian brand) respectively. Ialso changed both wheels and track forthe Armour Track set which containsresin wheels and movable plastic tracks.These are obviously better than thoseincluded in the DML kit, but my choiceof tracks has a minor glitch: Theres amolding ejector mark that has to bepainstakingly filled with putty.

57

The spare track link in black colour- has molding marks; filledhere with grey putty as seen in the picture. The shape of thehinges on the door has been slightly modified. Deflectors detail.

The union between the two halves of the hull on the prow had to be supplemented with pieces of plastic.

KITS USED

Kit: -BMP-1, DML ref. 3503, 1/35 scale.Tracks:-Soviet BMP APC Model 1966 Track,Armour Track ref. TK-01.Accessories:-Russian radio antenna bases, Armoref. 35776.

-73mm 2A28 Gun, Altitude-ACC Pro-duction ref. B128.-Periscopes, M4 MODELS ref. B128.

Photo Etched Sheets:-BMP-1, Airwaves AFV ref. 35002.-BMP-1, Eduard ref. 35004.-Squared net, Aber ref. S02.

58

This upper view helps us see thearrangement of all the elementsincluding the welding remains madeusing Tamiya putty.

The bars that hinge the hatches in theroof are made out of tin wire.

The deflectors on the rear fenders,the covers for the firing slots and thehatches on the turret are all Eduardphoto etched parts.

59

I wanted this vehicle to be a SovietArmy unit, and although there are sever-al different camouflage schemes for it Iopted for a green and white one. Con-trast between both of these colors makethis scheme something spectacular. Itook a color profile published on issue#9 vol. 13 of the Tank Magazine as areference. I couldnt gather any moredata because this magazine is written in

Japanese, a language that Im not fluentat all.

I began airbrushing Humbrol enamel117 on the lower part of the hull andthe wheels. I also airbrushed some ofthis color on the areas on the upper halfof the hull where the camouflage spotsshould be. I did not cover the areas thatwould later on get white paint becausewhite paint does not cover well othercolors underneath. Then I used Hum-brol enamel 151 to light up all features

using the dry brush technique. I wentback to my airbrush kit and applied thewhite areas on the camouflage scheme.I think that its quite necessary to put adrop of 117 or 64 to tone down the bril-liancy of white paint, because otherwisethere would be lots of unnecessary con-trast.

I then worked on the lower areas ofthe vehicle doing a number of sand col-ored oil paint washes allowing somedrying time between each wash. I also

P A I N T I N G

The central section of the gun has been painted in 53.

The greasing points on the wheels are painted in 60. The lower parts of the vehicle have a number of sand colored oilpaint washes.

applied a filter on the upper half of thehull using enamels 64 and 93. Rightafterwards I created a few paint chips: Iused on the green areas a dark greenmixture obtained by mixing 33 and 117,and on the white areas used a reddishbrown rust- color obtained by mixing33and 60. In the white areas I appliedsmall and thin paint chips, because theyjump out too much on white.

Then I painted all the accessories andthe tracks (see picture captions) andmat varnished the entire vehicle usingmy airbrush kit. I also created a glasseffect on the periscopes by gloss var-nishing with a brush the glass area onthe periscopes. For the last touch I usedsome Mig Productions pigments and dida wash with them on the track and

wheels and also a better diluted washon the base of the turret. I used P028for the tracks and P037 for the turret.

The only decalon the vehicleis a small Guardinsignia on theplatoon leadersheadlight.

60

Soot has beencreated byairbrushinghighly dilutedLetraset ink 680and then 900

The periscopeshave a blackcolored edgeand the glasspiece in thesecontains amixture of 89,33 and 117.

COLOUR CHART

HUMBROL (enamels)33 matt black34 matt white53 gunmetal56 aluminium60 matt scarlet64 matt leather89 matt middle blue93 mat desert yellow117 matt US light green151 interior light green

VAN GOGH (oils)234 raw Sienna 408 raw umber409 burnt umber411 burnt Sienna

MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)P028 Europe dustP037 Gulf war sand

LETRASET (inks)680 sepia brown900 black

MARABU (varnish)110605 gloss varnish110805 flat varnish

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- ZALOGA, Steven J. BMPInfantry Combat Vehicle, inConcord No. 1006, ConcordPublications, Hong Kong, 1990.

- ZALOGA, Steven J. BMPInfantry Fighting Vehicle 1967-1984, in New Vanguard No.12, Osprey Publishing, London,1994.

- SEVERAL AUTHORS BMP-1Soviet Armored Fighting Vehiclein Detail, in Present VehicleLine No. 1, Wing & WheelsPublications, Prague, 1995.

- SAKURAI, Alsufi. Details ofBMP-1/2, in Tank MagazineNo. 8, vol. 13, SenshaMagazine, Tokio, 1990.

- SAKURAI, Alsufi, Details ofBMP-1/2, in Tank MagazineNo. 9, Vol. 13, SenshaMagazine, Tokio, 1990.

61

Base color on the tracks is a mixture of Humbrol enamels 33 and 53 and later dry brushed using the last reference and 56.Rusty areas have been created with oil washes on 411.

Enamel washes on 60 mixed with 33 have been made on the covers for the fuel deposit and the axis of all wheels.

62

There are countless accessories in the market for model kit vehicles, but thereis always an opening for something that we can create ourselves.

Wood texture can be created on plastic using an iron brush or a metallickitchen scrub.

The walls of the box are gluedtogether using liquid glue for plasticapplied with a brush.

The sheet is brushed a number oftimes following the sense of the woodtexture that you want to recreate.

Plastic remains are eliminated using akitchen scrub.

Metal pieces are 0,25mm thick plasticstrips, and the hinges are heatstretched plastic pieces (see PanzerAces/Armor Models No. 22). Thetiny spots where the nails are placedare created with a small superficialdrilling.

The edges of the box where thepieces of wood are fitted togetherare marked with a pick

odelling lessosnM

here are countless accessories inthe market for model kit vehicles,but there is always an opening for

something that we can create ourselves. We will do an ammunition box on a

1/16 scale using plastic sheet about1mm thick. The lines of the different

wood planks can be etched with a scri-bing tool. Evergreen however has a ran-ge of plastic sheets with different textu-res on the market destined primarily tomodel kit train collectors.

Whats interesting about this simplejob is basically painting it. This process

has been photographed step by step andcan also apply to the 1/35 and 1/48 sca-les. The text right by the picturesinforms about the mixtures used, andthe different kinds of paint employed onevery step.

By: Fernando Gonzlez SnchezPicture Credits: Fernando Caellas

Planchuelo and Ral Fernndez Ruiz

PAINTING A BOX

63

Base color is an airbrushed mixture of50% XF-52 and 50% XF-60.Afterwards we apply some overtoneswith the first color mentioned.

Rust on all metal parts has beenrecreated using the three rustreferences of the Panzer Aces colorrange. Rust trails are made using 303highly diluted in water.

The lower part of the box has beendarkened with oil washes on 74.

Overview of the painted boxes.

We have to tie this carefully to the finished vehicles.Copper wire is being used, and then painted in rustcolors.

Another example of a box. In thisparticular example, the wood lists arehand painted with a slight variationin color tone, the upper parts beingpainted in a lighter color.

This is the final result after havingfollowed the steps described.

The upper part of each piece oftimber is highlighted with a mixtureof Panzer Aces 315 and 313. We willexaggerate the effect, because laterprocesses will tone it down.

Profiling of boards, and texturing ofthe dark areas in each piece oftimber are both achieved with anoverall oil paint wash on 74 dilutedon White Spirit. The brush has beenguided perpendicular to the lines ofthe wood texture in order to createsigns of dirt

64

EDITORIALEDITORIAL

Publishing ManagerRodrigo Hernndez Cabos

Editor in ChiefCarlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Translated byndres Snchez Gonzlez

Have collaborated in this issue:Steve PalffyJuan Carlos Toledo MirandaJos Manuel Flores PrezJordi Escarr GonzlezJ. F. BorsarelloJavier Franco ManzanoJoaqun Garca GzquezCristbal Vergara DurnBasilio Tante DazFernando Gonzlez Snchez

PhotographersRodrigo Hernndez Cabos Fernando Caellas PlanchueloRal Fernndez Ruiz

IllustrationsCarlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Lay OutRal Fernndez RuizKOMMAD S.L.

Printed byIBERGRAPHIC 2002

Scanning & FilmsettingACCIN PRESS, S.A.J. David Hernndez ChacnRal Fernndez Ruiz

Computer GraphicsJ.David Hernndez Chacn

Editorial and Technical Staff,Administration and AdvertisingACCIN PRESS, S.A.c/Ezequiel Solana, 1628017 MadridTel.: 913 675 708

914 086 135Fax: 914 085 [email protected]

SubscriptionsNorth American Subscription6MMD-Squadron1115 Crowley DriveCarrollton, Texas 75011-5010USA

In Spain: Valentn Garca BezTel. +34 913 675 708

Published byACCIN PRESS, S.A

ISSN: 1886-4457

The reproduction of the images andtexts is prohibited, using anycurrent or future technical mediumwithout written consent of theauthor. ACCION PRESS, S.A. doesnot necessarily support itscollaborators opinions.

The thousand and one Tigers which were made never cease to be a surpriseamong us because of the numerous versions and variations possible; we can geta lot from a Tiger kit. We are featuring on this issue a new author, Steve Palffywho sends us a highly attractive kit all the way from Australia. We offer also anumber of camouflage schemes on our color profiles featuring the initial run ofthis famous heavy tank.

Juan Carlos Toledo has made a most remarkable version of the Humber Mk. Iscout car. He has made a number of improvements on this small yet attractiveshowpiece kit. He used resin wheels and a number of photo etched pieces. Theauthor also points out a number of corrections made on the vehicle foraccuracys sake. The photographic review that follows documents many of thecorrections pointed out.

We firmly believe that military vehicle kits should be featured alongside scalefigures. Illustrating these criteria we include a review by Jos Manuel Floreswhere we are introduced to a German NCO wearing a camouflage uniform.Whenever possible as is the case here- we include photographs of the real itemof clothing.

Using few well combined elements; we can create little descriptive scenes ofa high quality level. The work that Javier Franco has carried out successfullyincludes a crane, reflectors, a piece of a wagon and some figures. The ensembleis a well balanced original composition.

Joaqun Garca Gzquez, always follows his hobbyist convictions and workswith all the different scales available. He has made a composition on 1/48showing a simple winter scene, that enhances the vehicle. The remarkable workon the figures gives the job an extra lift.

We are showcasing now a modern armored vehicle from the hands of ourexpert on Soviet issues, Cristbal Vergara Durn. He introduces us to a BMP-1,and he has used a number of different elements including a few available high-tech gadgets such as the metal gun and antenna. An attractive paint job givesfurther shine to this modern vehicle.

Closing this issue, we have in our Modelling Lessons section the step by stepdirections for building and painting a wooden box that will be a usefulcomplement for just about any model kit vehicle available.

We feature a varied range of showpieces demonstrating great hobby skills.

Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos