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CT1203
How to do your own measuring, pattern drafting, fabric
selection,
cutting, and sewing for a perfect fit
Anna Romaniuk and Ellen Knight
.\,;~LIVIERS ELEMEN-fAt~Y :5Cri lJOL ' J..l315 - 75th AVENUE
.. , DELTA, B.C. :'.:.-,_. . V4C 1 H4
4~ Copp Clark Publishing
A Division of Copp Clark Limited Vancouver Calgary Toronto
Montreal
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Beautiful fabrics and exciting styles make pants an important
part of every woman's wardrobe for office, leisure, and formal
wear. Pants has been written as a practical guide for those who
wish to design and sew "best-fitting" pants for every occasion. The
text con-tains all the information you need for accurate
measur-ing, drafting the pattern to match the measurements,
selecting a suitable fabric, and then cutting out and sewing your
new garment.
Home sewers have been learning since 1967 how to draft their own
garment patterns, through the Home Study Course offered by the
Huron School of Fashion. Anna and Walter Romaniuk, founders of the
school, have helped thousands of home sewers to solve their
designing and fitting problems. The drafting proce-dures given in
this book are the result of years of ex-perimentation and testing
by Walter Romaniuk. Using this simple, easy-to-follow method, you
can draft a pat-tern for slacks to your own individual measurement
and body contours. Regardless of your shape or size, you will have
a perfectly-fitting garm_ent in the style of your choice, and you
can do the same for any number of relatives and friends. This
all-new method has made pattern drafting so easy a child can do
it.
This publication is the result of many years of com-bined
experience in designing, pattern drafting, sew-ing, tailoring, and
teaching. Every member of our staff has contributed to it in some
way and Janet Log ie has given valuable assistance in preparing the
manuscript. It is our hope that this book will provide the means
for you to enjoy many happy hours of drafting and sewing, and the
pride of accomplishment that you will experi-ence when wearing your
own perfectly-fitting "custom made" garment. Note that the words
pants and slacks are used interchangeably throughout the book.
All measurements are given in both the English and the Metric
systems. In every case the measurement is given in inches followed,
in brackets, by the measure-ment in centimetres. The measurement in
"em" is not always exactly equivalent to the measurement in
in-ches. Both measurements are sufficiently accurate.
Anna Romaniuk Ellen Knight
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1 The pattern draft 3 Sewing techniques 25 An Introduction to
Pattern Drafting 1 Sewing, Pressing, Fitting the Basic Slacks 25
Measuring 2 Zipper Closings 26 Drafting the Basic Slack Pattern 4
Fly Front Zipper 26 The Basic Slack Pattern 6 Side Zipper 30
Adjustments for Figure Prob!ems 8 Additional Types of Closings
31
Protruding Stomach 8 Loops and Buttons 32 High Hip Curve 8
Lacing 32 One High Hip 10 Button Fly 32 Sway Back 10 Invisible
Button Fly 35 Full Derriere 10 Pockets 36 Flat Derriere 12 Patch
Pocket 36 Low Crotch Location 12 Pocket with Bound (Double
Welt)
Style Variations 14 Opening 37 Straight Leg and Elephant Pants
15 Side Seam Pocket 40 Flared Pants and Slims 16 Western Style
Pocket 42 Shorts 17 Waist Finishes 44 Checking the Pattern Draft 18
Waistbands 44 Crotch Depth Measurement 18 Waist Facing 45 Matching
Side Seams 18 Elastic Waist 45 Minimum Cuff Measurement 18 Waist
Yoke 46 Upper Thigh Measurement 18 Hip-Hugger Pants 47 Minimum Knee
Measurement 18 Belt Loops 47
Leg Finishes 48 2 Layout and cutting procedures 19 Hem of Pants
Legs 48
Separating the Pattern Pieces 19 Cuffs 49 Estimating the Correct
Amount of Fabric 19 Decorative Touches 50 Preparation of the Fabric
20 Children's Slacks 51 Pattern Layout 20 Maternity Slacks 51
Fabrics With a Nap or Direction 21 Prints 21 4 Pant fabrics 53
Plaids 21 Checks 21 Chart !-Fabrics Suitable for Slacks 54 Stripes
21 Chart 11-How to Handle Fabrics 55
Marking and Outlining the Pattern 23 Cutting the Fabric 23 Index
57
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1
An introduction to pattern drafting
Patterns are the basis of most sewn garments. The pattern draft
outlines the required shapes and sizes of the sections of fabrics
which, when seamed together, form the desired garment. Since the
fabric is flat, it must be made to fit the body contours by the
removal of wedge-shaped sections called "darts," which are drawn
right on the pattern draft. The curved areas such as the stomach,
hips, and buttocks, all require shaping or darting if a smooth fit
is desired.
If you have not had experience with pattern drafting before, you
wi ll need to know a few basics to make the drafting instructions
easy to follow. All patterns are constructed within a pattern
block, which is a rectangle outlining the length and approximately
half the width of the garment. Usually, only half of the front and
half of the back pattern need to be drawn as the left and right
sides of the body are the same and the pattern will be placed on
fabric which is folded double. In the case of slacks, this general
rule wil l hold true except for cer-tain figure faults which will
be specified later in the book.
As mentioned, the pattern draft is an outline or drawing of a
specific shape, and as such, it will require the use of special
instruments when being drafted. The following instru-ments are
recommended: a yard-stick or metre-stick with accurate markings for
draw-ing and measuring straight lines; a plastic triangle or square
which is used to draw 90 degree angles and to keep all the corners
of the pattern block square; and a French Curve which is used as an
aid in drawing smooth and precise curved lines.
The knowledge of a few terms wil l also benefit the novice
pattern designer. In the instructions, the lines forming the
pattern draft may be termed horizontal , vertical, parallel,
perpendicular, slanting or curved.
1 9 142
7 ./
v\ 5
w X
Fig. 1
90 4 y z 3
On the rectangular pattern block 1-2-3-4 in Fig. 1, a pattern
draft is drawn. Lines (1-2) and (Y-Z) are examples of horizontal
lines, while (1-4) and (X-Z) are vertical. A vertical line is said
to be perpen-dicular (at 90 degrees) to a horizontal line. Lines
(W-Y) and (X-Z) are parallel. (X-5) and (5-14) are examples of
slanting lines, while (8-W) and (7-8) are curved lines.
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2
Measuring
All patterns are drawn to predetermined measurements which must
be taken with the utmost care. Knowing how to take measure-ments
correctly and accurately cannot be over-emphasized. As it is
impossible to take your own measurements, have someone take them
for you, being sure that they take them exactly as explained.
Measurements should be taken while wearing correctly-fitting
un-dergarments. The person being measured should stand erect but in
her natural manner. Be sure that the tape measure is accurate. Some
tapes become stretched after frequent use. Before starting to
measure, compare the markings on the tape to those on the ruler you
are planning to use for drafting your patterns.
Before drawing up your slack pattern in full scale, it is wise
to practise drafting the pattern in a smaller scale, especial ly if
you are un-familiar with pattern drafting. Thus the slack
draft could fit on two pieces of paper the size of this page,
which can be taped together.
We recommend that you draft your ful l scale patterns on any
good quality medium weight paper about 36" (92 em) wide; for
example, wrapping paper, table paper, or wall paper. Ordinary blank
newspaper may also be used. It may be purchased from printers or
paper dealers either in rolls or sheets. If sheets are used, you
will probably have to tape two sheets together to make a section
large enough for your full scale draft.
Accuracy is the basis of successful pattern drafting . No
pattern can fulfil l its purpose of a "perfect and flattering fit"
unless the meas-urements are taken properly and accurately and the
lines and outl ines are drawn with care, neatness, and precision.
With this in mind, the successful drafting of your own
"perfect-fit" pattern is assured.
The measurements which are required for drafting the slack
pattern and instructions on how they are to be taken follow.
Record of measurements
Waist measurement Hip measurement Thigh measurement Knee
Location Slack Length Knee measurement Cuff measurement
Supplementary Measurements Slack Length (to floor) Inseam Length
(to floor) Subtract for crotch depth measurement Minimum Knee
measurement Minimum Cuff measurement
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Fig. 2
3
Measurements
Waist measurement - Measure around the waist as tightly or as
loosely as the person may prefer the slacks to fit at the waist
(Fig. 2).
Hip Measurement - Measure around the ful-lest part of the hips.
The easiest way to deter-mine the location of the fu llest part of
the hips is by placing the tape fairly high around the hips, then
while holding the tape firmly but not too tightly, sl ide the tape
down, slowly releas-ing it until the largest part around is found .
This can be anywhere from 5" (13 em) to 12" (31 em) below the
waistline -with some people the thighs are the largest part.
Thigh Measurement- Measure around the top of the leg just below
the crotch. This measurement is taken for checking the pat-tern
draft only.
Knee Location - Measure from the side of the waistline down over
the hip to the center of the knee on the side.
Slack Length- Measure the finished side length down over the hip
from the waist.
Knee Measurement - Measure around the center of the knee while
the person is standing up. Check for the ease required by measuring
around ~he knee while the person is sitting down.
Cuff Measurement- Measure around the ankle, releasing the tape
to the size of cuff desired by the person.
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4
Drafting the basic slack pattern
Pages 6 and 7 contain the drafting instruc-tions for the basic
slack pattern. To make these instructions easy to fol low, a few
expla-nations will be helpful . First of all , you must use both
the drawing and the instructions together referring back and forth
between the two, checking each instruction with what has been done
on the drawing. This procedure is espe-cially important in locating
the numbers on the figure which have been referred to in the text.
It must be noted that the points on the figure are for the most
part numbered in the order in which they are drawn. For example,
the rec-tangle or pattern block is drawn first and label-led
1-2-3-4 (Fig . 4). The crotch line is measured and drawn next and
labelled line 5-P. Then line 6-0, the knee location line is
constructed on the pattern. The procedure continues in this manner
with instructions for locating the next points 7, 8 etc.
The instructions could begin as follows: "With ru ler and pencil
draw a straight horizon-tal line from point 1 to point 2 equal to
3/a of your hip measurement. From point 2 draw a vertical line to 3
equal to the length of the slacks. From point 3 draw a horizontal
line to point 4 equal to line 1-2. Join point 4 to point 1 to
complete the rectangle. "
To conserve space the instructions given in the preceding
paragraph have been ab-breviated to read: " Horizontal line 1-2 =
3/a of hip. Vertical line 2-3 = Length of slacks. Complete the
rectangle: (3-4) = (1-2) and (4-1) = (2-3)."
When the pattern instructions read "Mea-sure 2-6 = knee
location" assume that since point 6 is on the 2-3 line (as
illustrated in Fig. 4), you must place your ruler along line 2-3
and measure down from point 2 the exact knee location measurement
in order to mark point 6.
Two pattern blocks will be required for each slack pattern: one
block for the front pattern (Fig . 4), and the other for the back
pattern (Fig . 5).
Secondly, unless specified as "curved ," al l lines are
considered to be straight. If the line is specified as a "curved
line," study the shape of the curve as drawn in Fig . 4, for
example, before copying the shape freehand on your own pattern.
Then , match the freehand curve to one of the edges on your french
curve and redraw to make the curve smooth . You may have to draw a
curve in two parts. Fi rst, match up one section of the curve with
one part of your french curve and red raw. Then match the
instrument to the other section to smooth out the remaining part of
the freehand curve.
. Thirdly, the final step in drafting the basic slack pattern
involves constructing the waist darts. In the abbreviated
instructions only the location and size of these darts are g iven.
When you reach this stage in drafting your slack pattern read Page
5 while referring to Fig. 3.
Seam Allowance
When you draft your own slack pattern you are working on the
actual measurements which do not include an allowance for seams.
For information about seam allowances please refer to pages 23 and
24.
Darts
Front darts A and B (Fig. 3) are 314'' (2 em) wide and 41/2" (11
.5 em) long. Dart B is separated from dart A by 1" (2.6 em). Draw
dart A first using line A-11 as the centerline. Measure 3/a" (1 em)
on either side of point A. Draw in dart lines from these points to
a point on the center-line 41/2" (11 .5 em) below A. Measure 1"
(2.6
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em) towards point 14 from this dart. Then measure a further
314'' (2 em) for the second dart. Point B marks the mid-point of
the sec-ond dart. First, draw the center line from point Bat 90
degrees to line (9-14), and 41/2" (11.5 em) long. Then draw in dart
lines from the points 3/a" ( 1 em) either side of B to the end of
the centerl ine.
9 1 CM. 2CM.
Fig. 3.
Back darts E and F are located 1/2" (1 .3 em) on either side of
mid-point of line (9a-14), 3/4'' (2 em) wide and 5" (13 em) long.
First, find the mid-point of 9a--14. Measure from this mid-point
1/2" (1.3 em) towards the center
5
back seam and place a mark. Measure a further 314'' (2 em) and
place another mark for dart E. Draw in the centerline for this dart
at 90 degrees to line (9a- 14) 5" (13 em) long. Draw in dart lines
from the two dart marks down to the end of the centerline. Locate
the other back dart (F) by measuring from the mid-point 1/2" (1.3
em) towards the side seam for the first dart mark and a further
314'' (2 em) for the second mark. Draw the centerline as for dart E
and join the dart lines. The measurements given for the length of
these darts are stan-dard measurements for front and back waist
darts. But, if required , these darts may be lengthened or
shortened.
Men's Pants can be made from this basic pattern, but, as they do
not have darts in the front you must make this change in the
pattern draft: 9 to 14 on the front pattern is equal to 1/ 4 of the
waist measurement, rather than the 1/ 4 of the waist plus 11/2"
(3.8 em) as used on the basic pattern draft for women.
For a knit or stretch fabric you must make this change in the
pattern draft: draft the pat-tern u~ing the Hip Measurement less 2"
(4 em). For example, if the Hip Measurement is 38" (96 em) , the
pattern is drafted using 36" (92 em). The knit or stretch fabric
allows for ease in fitting . This ease is allowed for in the
drafting instructions for the basic pattern for use with normal
fabrics.
Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 are drawn to scale from the measurements given
at the top of Fig. 4. Sub-stitute your measurements for those given
and you will have a pattern suitable for your own slacks.
It is wise to make up a trial pattern first if you are dubious
about following the instructions. Once you have convinced yourself
how easy it is to draft the pattern using these abbreviated
instructions, you will find that with a little prac-tice you can
make a pattern in 15-20 minutes.
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6 The basic slack pattern
Front
DIRECTIONS
PATTERN Horizontal line 1-2 = 3/a of hip BLOCK Vertical line
2---3 = length of
slacks Complete rectangle: (3-4) = (1-2) (4-1) = (2---3) Make
2-5 = 1/ 4 of hip+ 1" (2.5 em) Make 2---6 = knee location Draw
horizontal lines 5-P and 6--0
FRONT Measure 5-7= 1/ 4 of hip Measure from point 7, 1/ 4 of
(5-7) and mark point 8. Point 11 is mid-point of (5-8). Draw
vertical line through point 11 parallel to (2---3) intersecting
line (1-2) at A, knee location at point 12, and line (3-4) at point
13. Measure A-9 = 1/a of waist Joint 7-9 (7-1 0) = (7 --8) Join 8
to 10 with curved line as shown. Add 3" (8 em) to knee width.
Measure 1/ 4 of cuff width on each side of 13 and mark Y and Z.
Draw leg seams by joining 5-X-Z and 8-W-Y. Make (9- 14)= 1/ 4 of
waist + 11/2"(4 em) (for darts) Join 5-14 with a slightly curved
line as shown. Front Darts A and B are 314'' (2 em) wide and 41/2"
(15 em) long. Separate the two darts by 1" (2.5 em).
Q
4
MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 30 76 HIP 40 104 LENGTH 36 92 KNEE
LOCATION 22 56 KNEE MEAS. 15 38 CUFF MEAS. 18 46
9
10
FRONT
W 12----X 6
y 13 z 3
Fig. 4
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The basic slack pattern
Back
2 14
BACK
a w+-----+12--~x s
4 y 13 z 3
Fig. 5
DIRECTIONS
BACK Construct a second pattern block, exactly the same as the
front, for the back pattern. Measure 5-7 = 1/ 4 of hip Measure 1-9
= 3/4 of 5-7 9a is 1/2" (1.3 em) above 9 Joint 7 to 9a. Measure
7-10 = 1/ 4 of 5-7 Point 8 is 314'' (2 em) below 8 on line (1--4).
Join 8-10 with curved line as shown. Mark 11 same distance from 5
as on front. Construct vertical line 11 -12 -13 parallel to line
(2---3). Make knee and cuff width mark-ings as for front. Join
W-Yand X-Z. Draw back inseam from 8 to W curving in 1/2" (1.3 em)
from straight guideline 8-W as shown. Measure (7- 9a) (7-15) = 1/3
of (7-9a) 15-16 = 1/ 4 of hip. Locate point 16 on extended 7-5
line. Join 16 to X 9a-14 = 1/ 4 of waist+ 11/2" (3.8 em) (for
darts). Draw 9a-14 through 2. Join 14-16 as shown. Note: Draw-ing
the waistline (9-14) through point 2 usually locates point 14
accurately. However, measure 14-16 (Back Pattern) and 5-14 (Front
Pattern) to check that the side seams are equal. If necessary move
point 14 up or down. Use the required amount and redraw 9-14,
ig-noring point 2. Back darts E and F are located 1/2" (1.3 em)
either side of mid-point of 9a-14, 314'' (2 em) wide and 5" (13 em)
long.
7
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8
Adjustments for figure problems
Although th is slack pattern will eliminate the need to alter
for variations in figure propor-tions, certain figure problems will
require pat-tern adjustments. On these following six pages, the
left hand pages contain descrip-tions of the figure problems and
how they distort the fit of the pants. On the right hand pages,
opposite the problems, are detailed
1. Protruding stomach - Problem
a) The stomach may protrude enough to cause a slight strain
across the abdominal area of the pants. b) A larger stomach may
cause the pants to pull up over the protrusion, resulting in
wrink-les as shown in Fig. 6a.
Fig. 7a
instructions on how to adjust the pattern for each problem to
correct the fit. Do not antici-pate problems based on past
experiences with commercial patterns or ready-made slacks. Fi rst
.draft the pattern exactly as de-scribed on the previous pages
using your own measurements. Following the instructions in the
succeeding chapters for the correct pat-tern layout, seam allowance
(page 24) and sewing procedures, cut the pattern out and sew it up
in some inexpensive fabric such as
Fig. 6a
2 . High hip curve- Problem
Hips curve out sharply from the waist. If insuf-ficient contour
is allowed for these curves, the pants will wrinkle as shown in Fig
. ?a.
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muslin or an old sheet. Add a waistband and press. Try the pants
on, pinning the opening and waistband closed. Stand normally and
have someone check the fit. Some wrinkles will naturally form when
you move or do not stand straight, but these are not the type of
wrinkles you are to look for. Instead, check that the pants hang
straight and fit smoothly with no unusual wrinkles or pullings. If
you do spot a problem area, look through the follow-ing information
to determine the cause of the problem and its solution.
Fig. 6b
2. High hip curve - Solution
For high hip curves, measure the distance (a) from the side
waist down to the location of the largest part of the curve and
then determine the circumference (b) of the body at this loca-tion.
On the front pattern measure from point 14 down the distance (a)
and draw a horizon-tal line across the pattern at this point. The
horizontal line must equal 1/4 of the above measurement (b), as
measured from the cen-terfront seam. Redraw the hip curves through
this width. Similarly alter the back pattern. Darts may need to be
shortened slightly.
When the hip measurement is over 44" (11 2 em), check that there
is sufficient width in the pattern in the area about 4" to 5" (1 0-
13 em) below the waist as described above.
This method may also be used for people with very high hip
locations. Take the hip
9
It must be remembered that to become pro-fessional in anything
you do, it is necessary to work and practice by yourself.
Similarly, with this pattern, you wi ll have to do some
experi-menting on your own to get a tru ly excellent fit . So do
not get discouraged on your first try. Subsequent adjustments and
fittings will prove very rewarding. Once you have per-fected your
own basic slack pattern, you will be able to make any pant style
with success, and the experience you will have gained in solving
any fitting problem will be invaluable.
1. Protruding stomach - Solution
a) When the protrusion is not large, curving the darts slightly
inwards as shown wi ll solve the problem. b) To introduce
sufficient room for the larger stomach alter the pattern as
follows: slash the pattern from A to B. Spread the top section the
amount required for the protruding stomach.
k. (b) I I I I I I
a
Fig. 7b
measurement around the fullest part of the derriere. Draft the
pattern on this measure-ment and alter for high hip curves at the
actual hip location.
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10
3. One high hip - Problem
One hip is higher than the other. When enough room is not
allowed for the higher side, the pants will wrinkle on this side
and distort the fit.
Fig. 9a
5. Full derriere - Problem
The problem of a large derriere may cause pullings in the crotch
area of the slacks as shown. These pullings are the result of
insuffi-cient length in the back crotch curve. How-ever, this
problem most often results from in-accurate measuring, pattern
drafting, or sew-ing.
Fig. Sa
4. Sway back - Problem
For the sway back problem, horizontal wrink-les will appear
below the waist. A sway back hollows noticeably in the waist area
causing the back waistline t6 curve down in the middle of the
back.
Fig. 10a
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3. One high hip - Solution
When this adjustment is necessary, the pant sections will have
to be cut singly. Two front patterns and two back patterns will be
re-quired. One front and one back should be altered for the high
hip. The other two patterns should be left as drafted. Lay out the
patterns carefully so that the left and right pant sections will
correspond to the normal and high sides of your body.
To adjust the pattern for this problem, draw a horizontal line
across the front and back patterns about 5" (13 em) below the
waist. Slash this line from the side seam to within 1/ 16" (.1 em)
of center seam. Spread the top section as showt:l to introduce more
room for the one higher hip. To determine the amount of spreading
required measure from the side waist to the floor on both sides of
the body.
14
Fig. 9b
5. Full derriere - Solution
To allow more room for the derriere, the back crotch curve will
have to be made longer by extending it past the original crotch
point 8 and redrawing the back inseam from the new crotch point in
to the original inseam line. (See the dotted line in Fig . 1 Ob).
For pants that have already been sewn together, let out the back
inseam to provide more room for the derriere.
11
Fig. 8b
The difference in the measurements wil l be the amount the
pattern is to be spread. Darts may need to be shortened on the
higher side. Redraw the center seam as shown in Fig. 8b.
4. Sway back- Solution
To eliminate the horizontp.l wrinkles caused by the sway back,
use line (9-14) for the back waistline of the pants instead of line
(9a-14). (See Fig. 9b.)
8
Fig. 10b
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12
6. Flat derriere - Problem
Excessive looseness in the derriere area will result when the
derriere is flat , as too much room has been provided in the back
crotch.
L J I
Fig. 12a
Fig. 11a
7. Low crotch location - Problem
If you have a low crotch location which has not been allowed for
in 1/4 hip + 1" (2.5 em) measurement used on pattern, the pants
will form a pleat at the front crotch.
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Fig. 11b
7. Low crotch location - Solution
The crotch seam can be resewn lower and the seam allowances cut
down if the pants have already been made up. To correct this on the
pattern, take the inseam and the side seam measurements to the
floor. The difference be-tween these two measurements is the d
is-tance from the waist to the crotch line on your pattern.
13
6. Flat derriere - Solution
To determine if you will need to make the back crotch smaller,
measure the inseam length from crotch to floor (see page 18) and
the side length from the side waist to the floor. Subtract the two
measurements for the crotch depth measurement. Use this measurement
for the distance from the waist to the crotch line on your pattern.
Then, tie a string around your waist to mark the waist position and
measure the crotch curve from the center front waist down and under
the crotch and back up to the center back waist. Compare this
measure-ment to the length of the seams from point 9 to point 8 on
the front pattern plus 9a to 8 on the back pattern. If you find the
pattern is more than 2" --3" (5- 7.5 em) in excess of your crotch
curve measurement, you may want to take 1/2" to 314'' (1 .3-2 em)
off the back crotch as shown.
Fig. 12b
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14
Slims
Style variations
By altering the measurement of the pant legs in the cuff, knee
or thigh area, you can vary the line of the pants greatly.
Straight-legged, flares, elephant or baggie pants, slims and shorts
are styles which can easily be made with the basic slack pattern
procedure. The following pages will show you how to adjust the
basic pattern for the various styles shown on this page.
Shorts
Flores Fig. 13
Elephant Pants
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Straight leg and elephant pant styles
The Straight-legged style is the style featured in the basic
slack pattern draft (Figs. 4 and 5) . The pant leg is equal in
width from the knee, or just above the knee, to the cuff. This
style may give the leg an il lusion of length if the cuff is
allowed to hang down over a shoe with a higher heel.
Hot Pants may be made from this pattern. Measure the length
desired down from the side waist. Cut the pant pattern at this
length. Allow for the cuff as shown on page 17.
Elephant or Baggie Pants are popular for various times of the
day. Daytime and sport
15
plaids create their own look, while soft drapey fabrics create
the evening look. For Elephant or Baggie Pants the basic slack
pattern forms the outline, then the pant legs are drawn straight
down from the hips to the hem. Slight shaping may be desired at the
seat, but there is little or no shaping in the thigh or knee area.
This pant style may be cuffed or simply hem-med. Draw the pant legs
straight down from 8 and 5 (Fig. 14) on the front pattern toY and Z
at the hem. Measure from 12 to W on the front pattern and measure
this same distance from 12 and mark Won the back pattern . Draw the
back side seam straight down to Z. Curve the back inseam in
slightly, as shown, down to the knee and then straight down to
Y.
n , MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 24 61 HIP 36 92 KNEE LOCATION 21
53 LENGTH 34 86
a..) ,, 5
FRONT BACK
w 12 X w 12 X
Fig. 14 y 13 z y 13 z
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16
Flared pants and slims
Slims are characterized by a narrow cuff width. First decide on
the width of cuff de-sired. Refer to page 18 for measuring the
minimum size of cuff you can use. Measure 1/4 of the desired cuff
width on either side of point
MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 26 66 HIP 38 96 LENGTH 35 89 FLARED
CUFF MEAS. 20 51
FRONT
w 12 X
FLARES SLIMS ""' /
13 and mark points a and b. Join a and b to the knee width
points for the leg seams as shown in solid lines on the diagram.
There are many possible variations of this pattern. The pant legs
of sl ims may be altered in length to create peddle-pusher or deck
pants styles, or slit 6" (15 em) or so up from the hem.
MEASUREMENTS IN. CM KNEE LOCATION 21Xz 54.5 KNEE MEAS. 14 36
CUFF MEAS. 13 ::)3
w 12 X
Fig. 15
y 0 13 b z y a 13 b z
-
The Flare Pants or "bells" which are fitted to the knee, or just
above the knee, flare out to a very wide cuff. This style may give
an illusion of height depending on the length of the pant leg and
the height of the shoe heel worn. Knee width is drawn as for the
basic pattern. Draw the leg seams from the knee location out to 1/
4 of the cuff measurement at points y and z as measured on either
side of point 13. The broken line on the diagram represents the
pattern adjustment for flares.
Shorts
Shorts may also be made from the basic slack draft. Draw the
length of the pattern block equal to the length of the shorts as
measured
17
down from the side waist. To determine the cuff measurement of
the shorts, measure around your thigh at the length of the shorts
desired and add 2" -4" (5-1 0 em) for ease. Take 1/4 of this
measurement on both sides of pointE and mark C and D. (Fig. 16).
Draw the leg seams as shown.
On this pattern the waistline is drawn as 1/ 4 of the waist
measurement + 314'' (2 em) for an elasticized waistline. (See page
45 for de-tails).
For the hem allowance draw a horizontal (dotted) line on the
pattern 2" (5 em) above C-D. Fold the bottom of the pattern under
on line C-D. Place a sheet of tracing paper under the pattern and
trace up the pant seams 2" (5 em) and across the dotted line to
transfer the markings for the hem allowance to the bottom of the
pattern.
MEASUREMENTS IN. CM WAIST 26 66 HIP 38 96 CUFF MEAS. 20 51
FRONT BACK
a ...I 11 , 5
r- - ---- - - -- - ---
a I c E D
L I Fig. 16
-
18
Checking the pattern draft
Once you have completed the pattern draft, you may want to make
a final check that your pattern will fit you in the areas which
have been drawn to standard procedures or meas-urements.
Crotch depth measurement
If you are exceptionally long or short from the waist to the
crotch, check to see that the crotch line is in the correct
position on your pattern. Subtract the inseam length to the floor
from the side length to the floor. The result is the crotch depth
which is the distance (2-5) on the pattern.
The inseam is accurately measured by at-taching one end of the
measuring tape to a pencil. Take this measurement as follows: Place
the pencil between the legs at the crotch and measure down the
inside of the leg to the floor.
Matching side seams
It is best to check that the side seams will match when sewn
together. Measure the front and back side seams on the pattern ,
from Point 14 to the knee location. If unequal, alter the position
of Point 14 on the back pattern up or down (Fig . 5), retaining the
correct distance from Point 9, until the side seams are equal in
length.
Minimum cuff measurement
The minimum cuff measurement at the ankle is determined by
measuring around the foot as shown in Fig. 17. Cuffs of slims can
not be made narrower than this measurement, un-less the pant leg is
slit about 4" (1 0 em) up from the hem.
Fig. 17
Upper thigh measurement
Measure around the leg just below the crotch. Add 3" (7.5 em) to
this measurement for ease in non-stretch fabrics and 2" (5 em) for
knit or stretch fabrics. If a tighter fit is desired add only 1"
(2.5 em). Measure the distance (a) down from the side waist to the
point where this thigh measurement was taken (Fig. 18). On both
patterns mark the distance (a) down from Point 14 and draw a
horizontal line (S-T) across the pant leg of each pattern .
Compare the length of this line (front plus back patterns) with
the upper thigh measure-ment + 1" , 2", or 3" ( + 2.5, 5, or 7.5
em). Remove any excess by taking in the leg seams by equal amounts
as shown in Fig. 18. If this measurement is larger than the
pattern, add the difference to the pattern leg seams, adding 1/4 of
the extra required to each seam at location (a).
J (a }
l I I I I ~--+--~,T I
Fig. 18
Minimum knee measurement
Measure around the ful ly bent knee to get the minimum width of
the pattern at the knee loca-tion.
-
., -
Separating the pattern pieces
Before purchasing and cutting out your pant fabric you should
separate the pattern from its block. Cut along the heavy solid
lines as indi-cated on the Basic Slack Pattern draft (refer to
pages 6 and 7) . Cut out the darts on the pat-tern pieces only to
simplify transfer of sewing lines on the fabric. If pockets, waist
facing, yoke or fly are to be used, draw them directly on the slack
draft, and then trace onto sepa-rate sheets of paper to avoid
cutting up the front and back patterns. For more information on
these style details see Chapter 3.
Label all pattern pieces. Signify whether each piece is to be
placed on the fold, to be cut single, double or in fours. Mark all
vertical lines on the pattern "lengthwise grainl ine," or "straight
of goods."
Notches are important for any sewer. On the slack patterns
notches are marked on both sides of the knee location (points Wand
X), at the intersection of the crotch line and the side seam-point
5 (front), point 16 (back), and at the intersection of the
creaseline with the waistline. A notch may also be placed on the
center front and back seams at point 1 0.
Estimating the correct amount of fabric
To save money, you will want to be able to buy the exact amount
of fabric requi red for your pattern .
Once you have separated the pattern pieces, you can easily
determine the required amount by taking the patter"n pieces to the
fabric store with you .. With so many different uses for slacks and
so many fabrics on the market today, choosing the right fabrics for
your slacks has become a big decision . For help with th is
problem, refer to Chapter 4 on Fabrics, page 53.
When you have selected the fabric, ask the salesgirl to unroll
about two yards of the bolt. Lay out your pattern pieces on th is
length following the directions for Pattern Layout given on page
20. Remember to allow for seam allowances and hem. Then measure the
length required.
If you have previously decided on a fabric and therefore have
the advantage of knowing its width, you can accurately determine
the length required at home. Stretch two lengths (about 2 yards) of
string on the floor to repres-ent 1/2 the width of the fabric .
Place your pat-tern pieces between the two strings leaving enough
space between them for seam allow-ances and hems. Remember to al
low for waistband, pockets, etc ., if used. After the pattern
pieces are placed, the exact length of the fabric required can then
be measured.
Special layout procedures are required for fabrics featuring a
directional design or nap, checks, plaids and uneven stripes.
Generally, checked, plaid and striped fabrics require the addition
of two extra design repeats (eg., 2 plaid blocks) to the length for
matching .
-
20
Preparation of the fabric
Depending on the nature of the fabric you have chosen, certain
precautionary measures are necessary to prepare the fabric for
cut-ting. To determine whether the fabric requires pre-shrinking
refer to the chart on Page 53. Before cutting, all washable knits
and crimps should be washed and drier dried at wash and wear
setting as they may have been stretched when rolled in bolts. It is
wise to then press and apply a spray fabric finish to give body to
the knit fabric for sewing. Cottons should be wet thoroughly, left
to air dry on a flat surface, and then pressed with steam setting.
To pre-shrink wools, wet an old sheet thoroughly. Place the wool on
top of the sheet and, starting at one end, fold the sheet and wool
together over and over to the other end. Leave the fabric folded
for several hours to allow the wool to absorb the moisture from the
sheet. Then remove the sheet and lay the wool out flat to dry.
Instead you may take the entire length to the dry cleaners for a
steam pres-sing, or place a wet sheet on top of the wool and steam
press at home.
Checking the grain of the fabric is another important step. The
lengthwise and crosswise yarns must be at 90 degrees to each other
to ensure that the garment will hang properly when finished .
One method of checking the grain requires you to even out the
raw edges of the fabric by pulling a crosswise yarn close to one
end so that puckers form across the fabric mark-ing this one yarn.
Cut across the fabric on this yarn. This end is now "trued" to the
crosswise grain. Repeat for other end. Check to see that the
corners of the fabric are square by com-paring with the corner of a
rectangular table. If the corners do not match, the fabric is off
grain. To straighten the grain, either pull the opposite corners of
the fabric until they are square, or use your iron to ease the
lengthwise and crosswise yarns into correct alignment. Fold the
fabric in half lengthwise. With raw edges even, pin the selvages
together. If the fabric permits, steam press from selvage edges
towards the fold to remove excess wrinkles and thus straighten the
grain.
Avoid permanent press fabrics which are off grain as they can
not be straightened satis-factorily.
The grain should be straightened before or after pre-shrinking
depending on the method used. Washable fabrics may be pulled on
grain after wetting; wool fabrics right after being unrolled from
the sheet. Fabrics which do not require preshrinking should be
straightened before proceeding to the next step.
After the fabric has been prepared, fold it in half lengthwise
with the right sides together. Pin the selvages every 12" (30 em)
or so. For striped, checked or plaid fabrics, make sure that
matching stripes or blocks are directly on top of one another. Then
pin the two layers at regular intervals. Pin slippery fabrics such
as sheers or light weight crepes to tissue paper before placing the
pattern and cutting , to pre-vent the fabrics from sl ipping and
stretching during handling.
Pattern layout
Before you purchase the exact amount of fab-ric you will require
, you must know how to place the pattern pieces correctly on the
fab-ric. Figs. 19, 20 and 21 on pages 22 and 23 show the proper
placement of the front and back patterns on different fabrics. All
vertical lines on the pattern pieces should be placed along the
lengthwise grain or the straight of goods of the fabric. For
accuracy, adjust the pattern so that the distance from the pattern
grainline to the selvage edges of the fabric is the same along the
length of the pattern piece. If necessary, the crotch piece can be
cut out separately as shown on Fig. 21 . Waistline fac-ings may be
placed with the center front on the fold to eliminate the bulk of
an extra seam, only if a side opening is used. Remember to allow
for seam and hem allowances for each pattern piece. Once the
position of each piece is decided, pin (or, if recommended , tape)
the pattern to the fabric so that it does not shift nor slip out of
place.
-
Checks, plaids, stripes, and one way fab-rics, all require extra
attention with respect to pattern layout (see Figs. 19 and 20).
Care must be taken in the placement of design sections, in the
matching of the design at the seams, and in the placement of the
pattern when the fabric features a nap or one way design. Each of
the above types of fabric are discussed separately below.
Fabrics with a nap or direction
To determine whether a fabric has a nap, rub the hand up and
down the surface of the mat-erial. If there is a difference in the
feel , bet-ween the two directions, the fabric has a nap. Notice
also the slight change in colour as the nap is disturbed.-
AII napped fabrics must be cut so that the nap is running in the
same direction through-out the garment. Cut velvet and corduroy
pants with the nap running up from the cuffs to the waist. These
fabrics will then have a richer, deeper appearance. Secure the
pattern pieces with scotch tape or pin with silk pins to the wrong
side of the fabric.
Wool broadcloth and other napped fabrics must be cut with the
nap running down from waist to hem.
Certain prints and plaids also must be cut with the design
running in the same direction on all pant sections. Usually you can
tell if the directional treatment is necessary just by look-ing at
the print or plaid . To make sure, place opposite ends of fabric
beside each other in a manner such that the design is running one
way on one end, and the opposite way on the other end. Check to see
if there is a difference in appearance between the two. If the
design is not completely symmetrical , directional treatment is
required.
Prints
If the design on the print is large, matching at the seams may
be necessary. If the print fea-tures a dominant shape, repeated at
regular intervals, decide on the most effective place-
21
ment of these shapes. For example, avoid placing a dominant
shape on the widest part of the hips or derriere. Keep in mind that
the left and right sides must be in balance.
Check the print to determine if it will require special
directional layout.
Plaids
Some plaids will also require the directional layout. Such
fabrics are the uneven plaids which do not have a symmetrical stri
pe ar-rangement in the lengthwise and crosswise directions, as well
as the plaid fabrics with napped surfaces. If these fabrics are to
be cut double, special fabric preparation is required. Pin one
plaid section directly on top of the other t::>efore placing the
pattern pieces. But the fabric can be cut single, if desired.
All plaids should be matched at the pant seams, and if possible
the vertical plaid stripes should meet to form a chevron or vee at
shaped seams. To match plaids at seam-lines, place corresponding
notches on the same plaid lines (see Fig. 20).
Checks
Generally, checks do not-have to be matched if less than one
half inch (1.3 em) in width. Larger checks are treated as
horizontal stripes with respect to pattern layout, and matching at
side seams and inseams.
Stripes
Place the most obvious stripes where they will look best. For
horizontal stripes, place the dominant stripe at the cuff, unless
this stri pe will occur also on the widest part of the hip. With
vertical stripes, the dominant stripe can be centered in the middle
of each pant leg. For a straight pant leg, a wide dominant stripe
down the side seam may be desirable. These pointers should be
considered when placing pattern on plaid fabrics, too, as plaids
often feature a dominant stripe in the vertical and/or horizontal
direction.
-
22 If vertical stripes are evenly spaced in a
repeating manner, they may be matched at the shaped side seams
to chevron both above and below the knee. If vertical stripes are
un-even, they will probably not chevron on the shaped side
seams.
Horizontal stripes should be matched at side seams and inseams.
If stripes are un-evenly spaced you must place front and back
patterns in the same direction on the fabric, so that the stripe
arrangement wil l be the same both front and back.
These directions apply also to some fabrics which have a striped
texture such as wide wale corduroy.
Pattern layout for directional striped fabrics
~ ~ ~ F 1/ lr
I) J II
1-.; ....
1\ II 1\ I " \
I I II
Fig. 19
'
Pattern layout for directional plaid or checked fabrics
I I rr- ,_ 1---l,_
J 1 J I
v ---
,.........._
~~--......
'r ~ ..
~-~ i\ f: ~-~ ,_I- ..
1\ L-~ ..
"~ t 1-t--' 1--1-
=~ i: 1-1-
.
I I I
I I
Fig. 20
In Figs. 19 and 20 the material features an even vertical and/or
horizontal stripe. The ver-tical centerline and crotch line (and
conse-quently the knee location line and the hemline) of the front
pattern are placed on correspond-ing areas of the stripes as are
the vertical centerl ine and crotch line (knee location line and
heml ine) of the back pattern. In this way, the horizontal stri pes
wi ll match at the seams, and the vertical stripes will meet to
form a chevron or vee at the side seams.
-
Fig. 21 shows how the front and back pat-terns may be placed
when the fabric does not feature a oneway design or nap. Vertical
cen-terlines must be p laced parallel to the selvage edges. Note
that the back crotch may be cut separately, as shown, when the
fabric is not quite wide enough to cut full front and full back
patterns.
Pattern layout for non directional fabrics
Fig. 21
23
Marking and outlining the pattern
Once the pattern pieces are pinned or sec-ured in place (Fig.
22) on the fabric , measure and mark the seam allowances on the
fabric with soft tailor's chalk or sharpened chalk. Mark 5/s" ( 1.5
em) seam allowance to all seams unless otherwise specified. Widen
the center back allowance to 11 /2" ( 4 em) at the waist and the
back inseam to 11/2" (4 em) at the crotch. This addition allows for
alteration in case of weight gain. We also suggest adding 314''
(2.5 em) seam allowance on the side seams as a precautionary
measure. These seam allowances may be trimmed down after fitting ,
if unnecessary. Hem allowance is usu-ally 2" (5 em).
Just before cutting out the pants. trace around the pattern
pieces marking the seam lines and darts with chalk on the top layer
of the fabric. Mark notches and any other con-struction lines you
feel may help you to sew up the pants.
Cutting the fabric
To cut the fabric use sharp straight sheers (never pinking
sheers) . Cut with long even strokes on seam allowance lines.
(Refer to Chart II on Page 55 to check whether special cutting
techniques are required for the differ-ent fabrics.)
Once the pants are cut out, remove the pattern pieces from the
pant sections. Re-verse the two layers of each section so that the
wrong sides are together and pat along the seam lines and darts to
transfer chalk mark-ings to the second layer.
-
24
Seam allowances
FRONT
I. SGM .
Fig. 22
-
The construction of slacks can be as simple or as complex as you
desire. A pair of slacks with no closing and an elastic waist can
be sewn together in a matter of minutes. A tai-lored pair of pants
with a fly front and welt pockets will take considerably longer to
make. But regardless of the complexity of the style and the time
involved in sewing your pants together, certain procedures must be
fol-lowed if your pants are going to look and fit well on you. The
sewing techniques involved in constructing slacks are just as
important as the drafting, cutting, and layout procedures
previously discussed.
The following section covers the proper procedures for sewing
the basic slacks to-gether. The remaining sections in this chapter
consist of detailed instructions on the drafting and sewing
procedures for the different fea-tures which may be added to the
slacks to vary the style and give the slacks a more pro-fessional
finish. These features include clos-ings, pockets , waist finishes,
and leg finishes.
Sewing, pressing, fitting the basic slacks
After the pants have been cut out, the edges of the pant
sections must be zig-zagged or pinked if the material has a
tendency to fray. Since seam lines and darts are indicated with
chalk markings right on the fabric , it is easy to sew the pants
together. First, sew in the waist darts directing the stitching
from the waist straight down to the point of the darts. To help you
sew the darts smoothly, place the straight
edge of a piece of thin cardboard along the dart line and stitch
along the edge of the cardboard. It is important to get a good
point to your dart for a smooth fit in your finished garment. Next,
sew the front and back in-seams and side seams of the left and
right pant sections together, stitching from the bot-tom of the
pants up to the crotch or waist, matching the notches. Baste these
seams be-fore stitching to prevent one layer from sl ip-ping on the
other. Stretch the back inseam above the knee sl ightly to match
the front in-seam from knee to crotch. The last seam to be sewn in
the pants is the crotch seam which is stitched from the center
front waist around to the center back waist. Baste this seam first
with the left leg turned inside out and placed inside the right leg
to keep the material out of the way while stitching. Stretch the
back crotch seam while stitching to give the pants a more
comfortable shape. When you join the left and right sections
together with a continu-ous crotch seam, the pants will have a
smoother appearance and fit. It is wise to sew the crotch twice to
reinforce this seam as it is subject to a good deal of stress and
strain during normal wearing.
Press the right and left pant sections right after the inseams
and side seams have been sewn. Open the seam al lowances and press
them out flat , using a piece of board which is placed inside the
pant leg between the two layers to prevent pressing the bottom
layer. Since different fabrics require different pres-sing
techniques, refer to Chart II on page 55 to check for special
instructions on pressing your fabric.
-
26 When the seams and darts have been sewn
and pressed, the pants should be tried on to check the fit. Sew
the side seam all the way up to the waist and press open. Then open
the left side seam from the waist down about 7" to 9" (18 to 23 em)
for the closing. You may find that you will need to make minor
adjustments to perfect the fit of your pants. For example, the
curve of the side seams over the hip area may need altering to
better suit your shape. You may want to take in the back inseam to
fit the pants tightly in the th igh area. Do not over-fit your
pants! If you do, you will find that there is too little ease left
for sitting, bending , and walking with comfort. If you do find
there is a major fitt ing problem, refer back to page 8 for the
solution.
Once the crotch seam has been sewn and the pants have been
fitted , press the crease line for the front and back pant legs by
placing the inseam and side seam of each pant leg directly on top
of one another and pressing from the center of the leg out towards
the folded edge. S_ee Fig . 23.
Then pockets may be added. At this stage a zipper or another
type of c losing is sewn into the side, center front, or center
back. Finally the waistband or facing and the pant hems are
sewn.
Lining
If possible, pants should be left unlined. How-ever, a
see-through material may require a lining. In this case, preshrink
the lining before cutting. Then either sew the lining to the fabric
sections and handle them as one material for the construction of
the pants, or sew up the lining separately and attach it to the
pants at the waistline only. When the lining is separate, the
pressing of the pants is easier than when the lining is sewn to the
pant sections. Since it is attached only at the waistline, the
lining may be pulled inside out and pressed separately from the
pants. The method of lining used will depend on the style, the
material , and the effect you want the lining to give to the
finished garment.
Fig. 23
Zipper closings
The zipper closing is the most practical clos-ing for pants and
is the most widely used type of c losing today. There are several
ways of applying a zipper: fly front, lap method, center
application, and invisible type. Since the in-structions for the
last two types are given right on the zipper packages, we will
concentrate mainly on the first two methods of zipper clos-ings
mentioned.
Fly front zipper
Insert the fly front zipper in the center front seam before the
crotch seam is sewn. In most
-
cases place the zipper on the straight part of the center front
seam. If you need a longer opening, extend the zipper slightly into
the curve of the crotch as shown in the illustra-tions. You may
find that you have to shorten the zipper. Do this, after the zipper
has been sewn into the waist seam, by cutting off the unnecessary
amount from the top of the zip-per. Then , trim any excess that may
extend more than 3/a" ( 1 em) into the waistband or waist
facing.
Fig. 24
Two strips of the pant material are required tor facings. The
general shape of these fac-ings is shown in Fig. 25, ending in a
blunt point about 1/2" (1.3 em) below the end of the zipper. The
suggested width is 2" (5 em).
27
The first step in constructing the fly front is to trim the
center front seam allowances down to 1/2'' (1.3 em). With edges
even, place the closed zipper face down on the left front sec-tion
of the pants just below the waist seamline. Baste it in place (Fig.
24-1 ). Aligning the straight edge of the facing with the edges of
the zipper tape and the pant section, place the fly facing on top
of the zipper. Baste. Stitch through all three thicknesses 114''
(.7 em) (Fig . 25-1). Mark the end of the zipper with a 114'' (.7
em) incision, as illustrated in Fig. 29-2.
Fig. 25
RIGHT SIDE
Turn the facing and zipper over so that the right sides face up
(Fig. 26-1 ). Roll the pant material towards the teeth of the
zipper (Fig. 26-2). Baste the rolled edge in place c lose to the
zipper teeth (Fig. 26-3).
-
28
Fig. 26
RIGHT SIDE
Cut a piece of lining on the bias the shape of the fly facings
but slightly larger and with the extension as shown (Fig. 26-4).
Baste the lin-ing to the right side of the fly extension along
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 27
the curved edges. Stitch (Fig. 26-5). Fold the lining over to
the wrong side, rolling the seam slightly to the back and baste
along the fold (Fig. 27 -3). Press. Fold the straight edge of the
lining under so that it will hide all raw edges and the zipper tape
(Fig. 27-1). Baste it in place. (NOTE: (Fig. 27 shows seam 5 (Fig .
26) un-sewn at the top to give you an inside view of how the seam
allowances have been pres-sed.)
Fig. 28
RIGHT SIDE
2
Turn the work to the right side and, using the zipper foot,
topstitch close to the basted fold of the material (Fig. 26-2)
through al l thicknes-ses. This row of stitching will catch the
folded edge of the lining in place underneath 2 (Fig. 27).
Press.
Zig zag the curved edge of the second fac-ing piece at 1 (Fig.
28). With the right sides together, sew this facing to the right
front of the slacks 3/a" ( 1 em) in from the center front edge (Fig
. 28-2). Fold the facing to the inside, rolling the seam under
slightly so it is hidden. Press. Baste along the fold at 1 (Fig .
29). Close the zipper.
Place the right front overlapping the left front, (with the
waist seam matching at the top) so that the stitching line (Fig.
31-1) on the left section is hidden. Baste together at 2 (Fig. 31).
Press.
-
Keeping the material as fl at as possible, baste the right
zipper tape to the right fac ing only. Stitch once close to the
edge of the zip-per tape and again closer to the zipper teeth (Fig.
30-1 and 2).
With the right side up, chalk a line an even distance from the
finished opening (about 1114''- 11/2") (3 .2-3 .8 em) curving in to
a point just below the end of the zipper (Fig . 31-3). Baste along
this line through the slacks and the facing making sure that the
facing lies smoothly and flat and does not shift. Remove the
basting which holds the right and left slacks together down the
center front.
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 29
I I I I \ 2 '\
Undo the zipper and stitch on the chalk line down to the point
where the chalk line starts to curve (Fig. 31-4). Stop stitching
with the machine needle down. Do up the zipper. Fold the left
facing back out of the way of the stitch-ing. Stitch around the
curve to the bottom of the opening .
Since the crotch seam is on the bias and needs a certain amount
of give, sew from the bottom of the zipper on the crotch seam for
2" or 3" (5-7.5 em) by hand using a back-stitch. Sew the back part
of the crotch seam by machine stretching the fabric slightly
while
WRONG SIDE
3
29
Fig. 30
sewing. Sew the seam line twice for rein-forcement.
Reinforce the opening at the bottom of the zipper by stitching
back and forth several times (Fig. 31-5) through al l th icknesses.
Open out the seam allowance of the crotch seam and sew the
extension of the lining to the edges of the seam allowances for
additional reinforcement as shown in Fig . 30-3.
Fig. 31
I I I I
3-41 I I 4~
\ \ \
I I I I I I 1+-1 I I I RIGHT 1 SIDE I I
' ' ,..._.
/' ... 5
-
30 Side zipper
A zipper may be placed in the left side seam using the lap
method of application. The zip-per opening should be from 7" to 9"
(18-23 em) in length depending on your taste, and on your size and
shape. The greater the differ-ence between the waist and the hip
meas-urements, the larger the opening required.
First, locate the point on the side seam where the zipper will
end. Sew the side seam from the hem up to this point. Place the
zipper face down, centered on the side seam line of the left back
slacks (right side facing up) . Baste it in place. Stitch at 1 (Fig
. 32). Turn the zipper over so that its right side faces up and
roll the edge of the pant fabric almost to the edge of the zipper
teeth as seen in Fig . 33. Baste in place. From the right side
stitch along the fold using the zipper foot (Fig. 32-2 and Fig.
33-2).
Fig. 32
Fold the side seam allowance of the front of the slacks under
along the seam line and press (Fig . 32-3). Baste the front and the
back together (Fig. 33-4), lapping front over back to
hide the stitching line (Fig. 33-2) on the back section. Baste
the zipper to the front section through the seam allowance and
slacks. With the right side up, sew through the front section and
the zipper tape close to the zipper teeth (Figs. 32-5 and 33-5).
This stitching line should be parallel to the folded side edge.
Stop the stitching at the end of the zipper. Turn the work and
stitch the zipper tape to the facing only (Fig. 32-6). Remove the
basting holding the front and back sections together.
.,-----,-1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
5--:-1 I I I I I I
=r 9
Fig. 33
Cut a strip of the pant fabric for a facing (Fig. 33-1 0)
slightly longer than the zipper and no less than 11/4" (3.2 em)
wide. If possible, cut one edge of the strip from the selvage. Zig
zag the raw edges of the strip (Fig . 32-7). Then, zig zag the
facing strip to the back side seam allowance (Fig. 32-8) .
Reinforce the end of the opening from the right side by sewing back
and forth several times through all thicknes-ses just below the end
of the zipper (Figs. 32-9 and 33-9). The bottom facing must be
lying flat so that it is caught in this stitching , too.
-
Additional types of closing
Although the zipper is one of the most func-tional types of
closings, it is certainly not the only type which can be
considered. Buttons and buttonholes, loops and buttons, and even
lacing may be used for closings to add variety and decoration to
the pants. The last two methods requi re lengths of cord which are
often made of the pant fabric . This cord can be made in two ways.
Both methods require you to cut bias strips of the pant fabric
about 1" to 1 1/2" (2 .5- 3.8 em) wide depending on the bulk of the
fabric and the desired finished width. You will have to experiment
a bit to find the width your fabric requires. The total length of
the bias strips is the length of cord required.
Fold the strip in .half lengthwise. Measure from the fold
approximately 1 3 of the width of the folded strip and mark off
this distance at intervals along the length of the strip. These
markings indicate the stitching line. Place a piece of strong, thin
string down the center of the strip between the two layers so that
the ends of the string extend beyond the length of the strip. With
a zipper foot , stitch through both layers of the strip on the 1/3
stitching line, but do not stitch through the string (Fig. 34-1
).
3
31
Then, stitch across one end of the strip, catch-ing the string
in the stitching (Fig . 34-2) . To turn the strip right side out,
cut off the corner of the seam allowances (Fig . 34-3) . Hold the
free end of the string (Fig. 35-1) in one hand and draw the fabric
in the opposite direction over the sewn end of the string (Fig .
35-2). When the strip is turned , cut the string off where it has
been sewn to the strip.
The cord may be made without the use of the string. With the
strip folded in half lengthwise, stitch down the length of the
strip at 1/ 3 of the width from the folded edge. Leave seam
allowances at 2/ 3 of the folded width to give the cord shape. To
turn the strip to form the cord, hook a hairpin or a thin strip of
wire through one end of the fabric. Feed the hairpin through. the
inside of the strip between the stitching line and the fold ,
constantly drawing the wrinkles away from the pin until the strip
has been completely turned to form the cord .
When the cord is to be made from stretch fabric, cut the strip
on the lengthwise grain. Before turning the strip, trim the seam
allow-ance down to half the width of the folded strip. There wi ll
then be enough stretch in the crosswise direction to give the cord
flexibility so that it may be used for loops or lacing.
t=--------------------_1---~ I > > > I > 1' 2
' 2 l Fig. 34
l ) I Fig. 35
I I z 7 l 7 l ., ) t 1
-
32
Loops and buttons
For a series of evenly spaced loops, you will want to be sure
that the loops are spaced uniformly and are of equal size. There
are two ways of doing this accurately. First, decide on the size of
button since the size of the loop depends entirely on the size of
the button. If the loops are spaced apart, cut each loop singly.
Cut the length of each loop from the cord to be used as follows:
Measure twice the diameter of the button plus 1/2" (1.3 em); or,
experiment with the cord until you find the correct length for the
size of loop your buttons require. Then add 1/2" (1.3 em) to this
length - 1 14'' (. 7 em) at each end of the loop is to extend into
the seam allowance of the closing edge. Cut one length of cord as
de-termined above for each loop. Then measure along the closing
seam line, where the loops are to be placed, and mark off with
chalk the desired position of both sides of each loop. Tape or
baste both ends of the cords in place to form the loops, as
dictated by the chalk markings. Separately spaced loops are
illus-trated on page 50.
Fig. 36
0 0 0 0 0 0
You can rule a sheet of paper as a pattern for the position of
the loops (Fig. 36). This ruling is especially useful if the loops
are con-
tinuous. The length of the paper should equal the length of the
opening. Draw one vertical line 5/a" (1.5 em) from the straight
edge of the paper for the seamline. Draw a second verti-cal line
the width of the loop from the first vertical line. Draw equally
spaced horizontal lines to indicate the desired width for each
loop. Allow for the width of the cord. One length of the cord may
be cut long enough to do several loops. Remember to al low for the
sections of the loop which wil l extend into the seam
allowance.
Secure the loops in place by taping or bast-ing to the paper
before stitching along the seam line to the edge of the closing.
After the loops have been stitched in place, tear the paper along
the stitching line and remove. Apply the facing to hide the ends of
the loops and to protect the raw edge of the closing.
Lacing
For a laced closing, the eyelets are easily applied with an awl
and grommets. Attach strips of firm interfacing to the facings on
each side of the closing for reinforcement before applying the
grommets. After the eyelets have been made, sew an_ additional
strip of the pant fabric to the facing on one side of the closing
and extending across the opening to the edge of the other facing.
This step is desirable since a laced opening has a tendency to gape
open with even a slight amount of movement or strain. Then lace a
length of cord through the eyelets to hold the edges of the closing
to-gether. The laced closing is illustrated in Fig. 78, page
50.
Button fly
The button fly is constructed in much the same way as the zipper
fly closing. Two strips of pant fabric are required for facings.
The shape of these facings is shown in Fig. 37, ending in a blunt
point about 1/2" (1.3 em) below the end of the opening. The
suggested width is 2" (5 em). A bias strip of lining the shape of
the fly facings but slightly wider and with the extension shown in
Fig. 38 is also required.
-
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 37
First, measure down from the waistline seam of the pants, the
desired length of the opening and mark with a 1/2'' (1.3 em)
incision which can be seen in Fig. 41-2.
Fig. 38
33
Baste one strip of facing along the center front seam of the
left pant section. Stitch 5/a" (1.5 em) from the edge (Fig . 37-1)
. Press the seam flat , opening out the seam allowances as seen in
Fig . 39-1 . The facing now forms an extension to the center front
seam (Fig. 38-1) . Face this extension with the bias strip of
lining by stitching it to the right side of the extension along the
curved edge (Fig. 38-2).
3
Fig. 39
WRONG SIDE
Bring the lining around to the back of the work, rolling the
seam (Fig. 38-2) sl ightly under so that it is invisible from the
front and baste in place along the fold (Fig. 39-2). Fold the
straight edge of the lining under (Fig . 39-3) so that it hides the
seam allowance (Fig. 39-1) which can be trimmed if required. Baste
in place. Turn the work to the right side and stitch 1/a" (.3 em)
from the seam (Fig. 38-3). This row of stitching should catch the
folded edge of the lining in place underneath (Fig . 39-4).
Press.
Zig zag the curved edge of the second fac-ing strip (Fig. 40-1
). With right sides together, sew this facing to right front slacks
1/2"(1.3 em) from the center front edge (Fig . 40-2).
-
34
Fig. 40
I I I IIIIIIIE I I I I
RIGHT SIDE
I RIGHT I
-
I SIDE I
.3---1 I 111111111 I
Fig. 41
I I I \ lilliE \ \ \ \ \.
' ' ...... __
Fold the facing to the inside rolling the seam under slightly so
that it is hidden. Press . Baste along the fold. Stitch the facing
in place with a stitching line (Fig. 41-3).
G RIGHT SIDE
G 81 I
I I I ~
'I '/
Fig. 42
The position of the buttonholes wil l depend on the size of the
buttons. The buttonholes should be at least half the diameter of
the button plus 1/4" (.7 em) from the edge (Fig . 41-1 ). The width
of the buttonhole should be equal to the diameter of the button
plus the thickness of the button, approximately 1/a" (.3 em) . The
distance between buttonholes is up to the individual. On the
diagram they are spaced twice the diameter of the button apart.
-
When the fly is buttoned, the edge of the but-tonhole side
should hide the row of stitching on the button side. The
measurement 1 (Fig . 41 ) should be equal to, or slightly more
than, the measurement 1 (Fig. 42).
Invisible button fly
For the invisible button closing , construct a separate section
of two strips of fac ing as in Fig. 43. With the right sides
together, stitch the two layers of facing together along the center
front edge. Reverse the layers so that the right sides face out,
and fold along the center front stitching line. Edgestitch (Fig.
43-1 ). Zig zag the curved edges together (Fig. 43-2). Place the
buttonholes as described above.
Face the right front of the pants with lining as in Fig. 40.
Fold the facing to the back and baste along the fold. Baste the
buttonhole section to the pants so that it is invisible from the
front as shown on Fig. 44.
Stitch to the pants along the curved edge (Fig. 44-1). Tack
along the center front at in-tervals (Fig . 44-2) so that a finger
may be slipped between the buttonhole section and the front of the
pants to do up the buttons.
Since the crotch seam is on the bias and needs a certain amount
of give, sew from the bottom of the opening .on the crotch seam for
2" or 3" (5 -7.5 em) by hand, using a back-stitch. Sew the back
part of the crotch seam by machine, stretching the fabric slightly
while sewing. Sew the seam line twice for rein-forcement.
Open out the seam allowance of the crotch seam and sew the
extension of the lining to the edges of the seam allowances as
shown on page 29 (Fig. 30-3) for additional reinforce-ment.
Fig. 43
111111111
Fig. 44
WRONG SIDE
35
-
36 Pockets
Four common pocket styles found on pants are: Patch Pocket,
Pocket with Bound Open-ing, Side Seam Pocket, and Western Style
Pocket.
Patch pocket
The patch pocket is easy to sew. You can make it in a variety of
shapes and sizes. First decide on the shape and size you desire. It
may be helpful to draw the pocket right on your slack pattern so
you will get an idea of the fin ished effect. The pocket pieces
required for the two patch pockets A and B (Fig . 49) are shown
with seam allowances in Figs. 45 to 4 7.
2
.------.-,
t
Fig. 45
Cut the lower piece (1) from pant fabric and the upper section
(2) from lining or preferably cotton which will shrink slightly
when steam pressed. The outside solid lines represent the cutting
lines, the inside solid lines represent the stitching lines. Add
about 11/2" (3.8 em) to the opening edge of the pocket for hem
allow-ance or facing. Cut the pocket lining the exact size of the
pocket section without the hem allowance. Turn the seam allowance
of the hem edge under and press as shown (3).
Place the straight edge of the lining (2) on the dotted fold
line which will be the edge of
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 46
the pocket opening (4). Baste in place. Edge stitch the folded
hem edge to the lining (5).
On the pocket with the diagonal opening, baste a length of
non-bias tape to the edge of the lining, and fold line (4) of the
pocket. Bring , the right side of the pocket to the lining, folding
along the dotted fold line (4) across the pocket opening. If the
lining material will not shrink with steam pressing, baste the
pocket to the lining in such a way that the edge of the lining
extends about 1/a" (.3 em) beyond the side and bottom edges of the
pocket section. The material of the pocket will be slack with
bub-bles but when turned right side out, these bubbles will
disappear and the seam line will fall to the inside of the pocket
so it is hidden from the right side (8). (See Fig. 48).
6 ; I I ', .... ______ L ________ ,,,
Fig. 47
I I I I I
/-6 I
\ 1 \ '...... I
I I I I I I I I I I I I I
.~'
If the lining can be shrunk, baste the pocket to the lining
right along the seam line. Stitch along the seam line (6) leaving
approximately 2" (5 em) unsewn (7). Turn the pocket through the
opening (7). If cotton fabric has been used for the pocket lining,
roll the seam to the back
-
of the pocket (8) , and baste in place. With a steam iron shrink
out the excess in the lining. Press the pocket. Hand stitch the
unsewn por-tion of the seam (7) together with an invisible
stitch.
Fig. 48
A
9 I
8 I
37
Stitch across the opening edge of the poc-ket (9) 1/a" - 114''
(.3-. 7 em) from the edge. If desired a second row of stitching may
be sewn on the stitching line (5) through all poc-ket thicknesses
to keep the opening firm and neat (1 0).
The final step involves the application of the pocket to the
pants. Baste the pocket in the desired position on the pant
section. Stitch 1/a" to114'' (.3-. 7 em) in from one side of the
opening around the pocket edge to the other side of the opening (
11 ). Reinforce the edges of the opening as shown (12). To add
strength to this reinforcement, place small squares of cotton
inside the pants under the pocket cor-ners before stitching
(12).
Fig. 49
Pocket with bound (double welt) opening The pocket with bound
opening is often found on tailored pants to give the pocket opening
a neat clean finish. This type of pocket is difficult to make. It
may be wise to practise on a sam-ple.
First decide on the width of the pocket open-ing. Make it at
least 5" (13 em) so that your hand can pass through without putting
undue strain on the fabric. Mark on your pants the exact position
and length of the opening de-sired with a row of small basting
stitches in contrasting thread. (Mark each end of th is line
-
38 with a row of basting). Decide on the depth of the pocket
desired. Measure from 1/2" (1 .3 em) above the waistline vertically
down to the opening. Add this measurement to the de-sired depth
plus seam allowance, and cut two lining pieces using this distance
for their length. The width used should be 2" (5 em) wider than the
opening. Place one lining piece on the wrong side of the pants
centered over the proposed opening and extending 1/2" (1.3 em)
above the waistline (Fig. 50-1). Baste in place. The 1/2" (1.3 em)
extension above the waistl ine of the pants permits you to secure
the pocket at the waistline between the waist-band and its facing
.
3 ~-~--------------~ r-~--------------~ 3 7'
RIGHT SIDE
2
2~! I ~i~~~- ----------'
Cut two strips of the pant fabric for the pip-ing 11/2" (3.8 em)
longer than the opening and about 21/2" to 3" (6.3-7. 5 em) wide.
If possi-ble cut one side from the selvage. With right sides
together, place one strip above the opening with its bottom edge
resting along the opening line. Place the other strip below the
opening with its top edge along this line. Center the strips so
that 3/4'' (2 em) extends beyond each end of the opening. Baste in
place. Mark each end of the opening on the strips (Fig. 50-2).
Stitch through the strip, the pant, and the lining fabrics about
114'' to 3/a" (. 7 to 1 em) from the opening line, starting and
stopping exactly at each end of the opening (Fig. 50-3) .
Backstitch at each end of the row to reinforce the stitching at
these points. Press
RIGHT SIDE
' I
I ., Fig. 511 --- --- ---- -- --- ---
the seam allowance of the strip back (Fig. 51-1). With the right
side facing up, cut through the lining and the pants between
stitching lines and out to the corners as indi-cated (Fig. 51
-2).
To form the piping, press the button strip and the seam
allowance upward along the seam line. Fold this strip over its seam
allow-ance and tuck down through the opening to the inside. Baste
through all 3 thicknesses of the strip fabric to hold the bottom
piping in place. Follow the same procedure for the top strip (Fig.
52-1 ). Edges which have been cut will automatically be folded back
(Fig. 52-2) .
-I--
I 2 I
~ r ~"->- ......... + " "
1\. . ----- - --- -------- - ---- -~
'- 3 - - ---- ----- - --
\4
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 52
-
With the right side up, stitch exactly in the bottom seam line
of the welt to secure the bottom strip in place (Fig . 52-3). Do
not sew on the top welt seam.
Then, fold back the slack and lining fabrics across the end of
the opening to reveal the triangular point and the ends of the
folded strips (Fig. 53-1). Adjust the ends so that they lie
smoothly in neat folds and stitch the triangle to the folds right
across the end of the opening from the end of the top row of
stitch-ing to the end of the bottom row of stitching (Fig. 53-2) .
Reinforce several times. Repeat for the other end of the opening
.
I -
-
I
$ [ / /./././ ././ 1+ /// / /// 3 2
-
RIGHT SIDE
.__
Fig. 53
Baste the edges of the welt opening to-gether (Fig. 53-3).
Press. Turn so that the wrong side faces up. If the lower edge of
the bottom strip is not a selvage edge, zig zag the edge or press
the raw edge under. Baste this edge to the lining only, so that the
pocket lies smooth and flat. Stitch in place close to the edge of
the strip (Fig. 52-4 ).
Cut another strip of pant fabric 21/2" to 3" (6.3 to 7.5 em)
long and as wide as the width of the opening plus 2" (5 em). Place
this strip on the second lining piece right across the open-ing so
that, when the pocket is opened, the pant fabric is exposed (Fig.
54-1) . If the lower edge of the strip is not a selvage, finish it
by zig zagging or pressing under. Stitch the strip in place to the
lining (Fig. 54-2).
WRONG SIDE
39
Baste the edges of the two lining pieces together. Stitch on the
seam 1ine (Fig. 54-3) and then zig zag the edges together (Fig.
54-4).
With the right side up, fold back the pant fabric along the top
edge of the welt. Baste through the pocket layers just above the
welt seam. Fold back the pant material at one end of the opening.
Reinforce this end by stitching back and forth through all
remaining thick-nesses (Fig. 54-5) .
I I ~!~-1 ------------Iii~
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 55
-
40
Then fold back the slack fabric across the top and stitch
through all remaining layers as close to the seam as possible (Fig.
54-6). Then reinforce the other end.
Fig. 56
Reinforce the ends of the opening from the right side by
stitching through all thicknesses (Fig. 55-1 ), back-stitching to
reinforce sec-urely. This stitching should be the exact width of
the opening only. Fig. 56 shows the ap-pearance of the finished
pocket opening.
If a flap is desired with this pocket, it may be inserted
between the two lining sections be-fore row 6 (Fig . 54) is
sewn.
The flap section must be made to fit the opening exactly. The
fac ing for the flap must be made smaller than the flap so that the
seam will not show around the flap edge (see the patch pocket
lining instructions, page 36) .
Side seam pocket
Draw the pattern for this type of pocket on the pant pattern to
get the general size and shape. Cut the pocket in one piece and
fold it in half down the center fold line (marked -- on Figs. 57
and 58). Since the sides of the pocket are symmetrical , draw only
half the
pocket pattern first on the front pant pattern according to the
following guide lines. The folded edge of the pocket(_.- line)
hangs straight down in the finished garment and should not lie
closer to the center front of the pants than 2"-3" (5-7.5 em). This
is espe-cially important when a fly front opening is used. The
pocket should extend 1/2" (1.3 em) above the waist of the pants.
The suggested size is about 1 0" (25 em) long, as measured from 1
/2" ( 1 .3 em) above the waist, with a 5" ( 13 em) opening starting
2" (5 em) below the side waist. The pocket follows the hip curve
down to a point 1" (2.5 em) below the end of the opening , then
straight in to the side seam line of the pants (Fig. 57-1). From
this point it curves down and across the bottom to the fold
li~e as shown in Figs. 57 and 58.
---1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
-----:
RIGHT SIDE
(
I I I I I I I I I
I /
I
Fig. 57
i---1 I I I I
2~ I I I I I I I I L----
Face both edges of the opening with pant fabric. Draw the
pattern for the facings on the pocket pattern. One side of the
facing fol lows the same hip curve as the pocket and the pants,
beginning 1" (2.5 em) above the opening and ending 1" (2.5 em)
below. The width of the facing should be about 2" (5 em) at the top
increasing to about 3" (7.5 em) at the bottom. Draw the inside edge
straight. If
-
possible, cut this edge from the selvage so that it won 't need
finishing. To cut the facings, fold the fabric double with the
right sides to-gether so that you will have a right and left facing
. Cut the pocket from firm cotton or lin-ing material with the
center line (- .- .) placed along the fold of the fabric.
Sew the facings to the pocket as shown in Figs. 57 and 58. Press
all raw edges of the facing under, 114'' (. 7 em), except the side
seam edge. Stitch this edge to the pocket (Figs. 57-2 and 58-2)
.
7
---~----- I
Fig. 58
I 12 I I I I \ \
8
With the right sides together, match the side seam of the pocket
to the pants (with the top of the pocket 1/2" ( 1.3 em) above the
waist of the pants). Baste in place. Clip the seam allow-ances to
the seam line at the top and the bottom of the opening (Fig. 57-3)
.
Stitch between clips along the side seam line (Fig. 57-4) . Fold
the pocket around to the wrong side of the pants along the seam
line (Fig . 57-4) of the pocket opening and press (Fig . 58-5) .
Topstitch 1 14'' (. 7 em) from the fold (Fig . 58-6). Zig Zag the
edges of the pocket and the pants together above and below the
opening (Fig . 58-7). Zig zag the opposite fac-ing and the pocket
edges together (Fig. 58-8).
Fold the pocket in half along the center fold line (_._.). Pin
and stitch around the edge of the pocket from the bottom of the
facing to the
41
Fig. 59
center fold (Fig. 59-9). Zig zag this area. Sec-ure the bottom
pocket layer to the side seam of the pants with zig zag stitch just
below the pocket opening (Figs. 58-7 and 59-1 0). Baste the pocket
to the pants across the top.
Pin the front and back side seams together and stitch (Fig.
60-11 ). Sew this seam with great care as the stitching must catch
the bottom and top corners, but not the folded edge of the opening.
Therefore, when stitch-ing the side seam across the opening, pull
the top layer of the pocket slightly away from the needle.
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 60
-
42
Press the side seam open (Fig. 61- 12).
WRONG SIDE
12
Fig. 61
With the right side up, stitch back and forth across the side
seam at the bottom and top of the opening (Fig. 62-13) for
reinforcement.
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 62
/ 13 ..
' I I I I I I I I I
-!. ,,3
Western Style Pocket
The procedure involved in making this style of pocket is much
the same as that used lor the side seam pocket. The general shape
of the pocket is the same except that the opening is curved and
diagonal rather than straight and vertical. Draw the desired shape
of the open-ing on the slack pattern. As a guideline, start the
opening 3" to 4" (7 .5-10 em) over from the side waist and curve
down to a point about 5" ( 12.5 em) below the waist on the side
seam.
Fig. 63 shows the shape of the pocket open-ing. Cut the main
front section of the pants along the curved opening line (1 ). Cut
the side waist section of the pants separately and ex-tend it about
21/2" (6.3 em) into the pocket. Cut oo the dotted line (2) . Cut
the pocket to extend 1/2" (1.3 em) above the waistline and 8" to 9"
(20-22.5 em) below. Cut one side of the pocket on the curved
opening line. The other side follows the hip cu rve of the side
seam. Sew the side waist section of the pants to the latter side of
the pocket so that , when the pocket is finished , this waist
section of the pants will show above the curved opening. In
addition to the pocket and pant sections, a facing of the pant
fabric (for the curved open-ing edge) is required . The facing
should not interfere with the center fold line of the pocket.
Therefore draw the facing about 21/2" (6.3 em) wide. Zig zag the
longest edge of the facing (Fig. 64-1 ).
--
Fig. 63
I I
I I
/ 2_,... /
., /
RIGHT SIDE
-
5 2
\
' ........ -- - ---
Fig. 64
Place the pocket on the wrong side of the pants, matching the
curved opening lines with a 1/2" (1.3 em) margin of pocket showing
above the wc;~istline of the pants (Fig. 64-2). With the right
sides together, place the curved facing on the pant opening (Fig .
64-3). Pin it in place. To prevent the opening from stretch-ing,
place a strip of non-bias tape along the curved seam line (Fig.
64-4). Baste through the four thicknesses and stitch along the seam
line (Fig. 64-5). Press the facing up towards the seam allowance
and edgestitch. Turn the facing to the inside and press so that
seam (5) lies slightly to the inside. Topstitch 1/4'' (. 7 em) from
the edge of the opening (Fig. 65-1 ).
WRONG SIDE 1
43
Fig. 66
Stitch the facing in place to the pocket (Fig . 65-2). Zig zag
the curved edge of the side waist section of the pants (Fig. 65-3)
. With the wrong side of the pants facing you, place the side front
section, right side up, on the pocket 1/2'' (1.3 em) below the top
edge, matching the side edges. Zig zag together (Fig. 65-4). Sew
the curved edge0f the side pant section to the pocket (Fig.
65-5).
Fold the pocket sectipn on the center fold line (Fig. 66-1 ).
Stitch and zig zag the edges of the pocket together from the bottom
of the opening down and around to the fold (Fig . 66-2). Baste the
pocket to the waistline (Fig. 66-3) and to the side seam (Fig.
66-4). From
\ ' I .....
-.-.---_I
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 65 Fig. 67
-
44
the right side, stitch across the topstitching lines to secure
the opening to the pants as shown (Fig. 67-1) . Waist finishes
The waist area of the pants may be finished in various ways. It
may or may not have a waist-band. If it does, the band may be wide
or narrow. If not elasticized, it may simply be faced, or feature a
yoke, or it may even be cut down below the waistline to hug the
hips. All of these waist finishes are discussed in detail
below.
Waistbands
The standard narrow waistband has a finished width of
approximately 1" (2.5 em), but it may be slightly wider if desired.
If the pants are to be worn with a narrow belt, measure the width
of the belt and draft the width of the waistband accordingly.
Usually, add about 11/2" (4 em) for overlap to the waist
measurement to give the finished length of the band. Seam the band
at the center back to allow for alteration in case of weight loss
or gain. Therefore, leave the center back seam of the pants unsewn
for 3" (7.5 em) below the waist. Draw the pattern for the waistband
in two sections. The dimen-sions of the sections will depend on
whether a
Fig. 68
2
1
side or center front closing is used. For the center closing,
draw one band section one half the waist measurement plus the
overlap in length and draw the other section only one half the
waist measurement, unless you have sewn a facing underneath the
zipper. (See the side zipper Fig 33-1 0.) When th is facing is used
the second waistband section must in-clude the width of the facing
as well.
For side closing, draw one section of the waistband equal to 1/4
of the waist plus the width of the zipper facing . (See the side
zipper Fig. 33-1 0.) Draw the second section equal to 3/ 4 of the
waist measurement plus the overlap. The width of these sections is
equal to the proposed width of the band. Mark off the over-lap and
the facing width on the waistband patt.erns and mark the remaining
portion at intervals of 1/ 4 of the waist. These markings are to
match the side and center-front seams of the pants to help you
attach the band smoothly and evenly. Add 3/a" (1 em) seam allowance
to all seams except the center back; add 11/