Panama 8 - Plan Your Trip (Chapter) - Lonely Planet · 2019-05-08 · ISLA GOBERNADORA Soná Boquete David Las Lajas PARQUE COIBA NACIONAL Macaracas Natá Aguadulce Penonomé Paso
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For a taste of tropical Panama, start with the hyper-charged capital. Explore the city and see colonial ruins and landmarks such as the famous Panama Canal while getting a dose of rainforest adventure. Top it off with a chilled Caribbean getaway.
Imbibe the rush of Panama City. In Panamá Viejo, admire Spain’s first Pacific settlement, laid waste in a massive pirate raid. Pedal along the coastal beltway Cinta Costera to historic Casco Viejo,
with hip plaza restaurants, rooftop bars, galleries and 18th-century cathedrals.
Take a day trip to Miraflores Locks to watch mammoth ships make their way through the canal. Visit nearby rainforest in the wildlife-rich Parque Nacional Soberanía, a favorite of birdwatchers. Or kayak on Lago Gatún alongside howl-er monkeys and sunbathing crocodiles.
From Panama City, fly to Bocas del Toro Town for four days of Caribbean relaxation and snorkeling among colorful coral reefs. Explore Isla Colón by cruiser
Boat out to the idyllic thatched resorts at Isla Bastimentos, take a chocolate tour on the Bocas del Toro mainland or visit indigenous groups on other islands through a community-tourism initiative.
Fly back to the capital for a last call in the city’s sleek bars and clubs.
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Above: Panamá Viejo (p51) Right: Cacao pods, Bocas del Toro Province (p181)
Whether you’re traveling on buses or with your own wheels, hit the Interamericana for a route that alternates between scenic beaches and highland cloud forests.
Spend your first few days exploring Panama City. Then head west along the Interamericana, where you can stop for a leisurely seafood lunch and explore the string of beaches along the Pa-cific coast. Overnight at Mamallena Ecolodge in the cool, sculpted foothills. The next stop is El Valle, a mountain retreat surrounded by lush cloud forests and green peaks. Return to the Interamericana, visiting Coclé’s roadside attractions, then detour for Santa Fé, a tiny highland town amid sparkling rivers and gor-geous waterfalls. On your way out, browse the gorgeous Iglesia de San Francisco de la Mon-taña outside Santa Fé.
For surf time, backtrack to the Interamerica-na and detour to Santa Catalina. Soak up the laid-back vibe at thatched restaurants and join the local surfing kids nailing the waves on the town beach. Another very good reason to stop here is to connect to Parque Nacional Coiba, a far-flung, pristine island in a vast marine park. Snorkeling, diving and hiking are all top notch; although there’s minimal infrastructure, it’s worth staying a few days.
Head via David to the popular highland retreat of Boquete in Chiriquí. Go hiking or rafting or take a canopy tour and fill up on mountain-grown coffee. Birdwatchers can stalk the resplendent quetzal. Choose from one of the fine-dining options and sleep soundly in clean mountain air.
If you have your own wheels, take the paved road to Volcán, a very scenic shortcut. Those without wheels can bus via David to Cerro Pun-ta. Retreat to a charming rainforest cabin before hitting the trail to hike the Sendero Los Quet-zales, a stunning trail through wildlife-rich cloud forest. If traveling by bus, you can loop back to Boquete on this hike. If adventure still calls, from Cerro Punta you can access the trails of Parque Internacional La Amistad. Take a guide – the Panamanian side of this international park is virtually undeveloped and largely unexplored.
To save time, you can fly back to Panama City from David.
Top: Hawksbill turtle , Parque Nacional Coiba (p147)Bottom: Ceviche
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If you’re itching to get off the beaten path, this seafarer route will bring you to the less touristed Península de Azuero on the Pacific coast, and on to the Afro-Caribbean heartland and the furthest reaches of Guna Yala (and possibly even Colombia).
Start in the capital of Panama City. From there, take a ride in the luxury train along the historical Panama Railroad through the Canal Zone to Colón to admire the Unesco World Heritage Site of Fuerte San Lorenzo. While in the area, check out the Panama Canal ex-pansion at the nearby Agua Clara Visitors Center. Using Portobelo as your base, explore 16th-century Spanish forts, boat out to deserted island beaches, scuba dive or attend a festival.
Return to Panama City to travel to the Península de Azuero by bus. From time to time traditional festivals take over the streets of these tiny colonial towns. If your visit co-incides, join the revelers! Otherwise, check out workshops where regional artisans craft Panama hats, lace dresses and colorful diablo (devil) masks. Make your base Pedasí for lei-surely trips to the beach and a friendly village atmosphere. Move on to the more remote Playa Venao to enjoy a pretty half-moon bay, meet other travelers and ride some waves without the crowds. If turtles are hatching, it’s worth mak-ing the pilgrimage to Isla Cañas.
When you’re ready, return to the capital and take a 4WD or flight to Guna Yala, a string of hundreds of pristine islands ruled by Guna. Thatched huts on dozens of islands run the gamut, from bare bones to creature comforts, with meals and excursions always included. Snorkel and swim to your heart’s content, or charter a sailboat for the grand tour. Highlights include snorkeling the reefs and wrecks of the Cayos Holandeses and meeting locals on the tiny community islands. If you are heading on to South America – and bent on adventure – consider a three- to four-day sailing or boat trip to Colombia.
Otherwise, end your trip by returning to Panama City, where you can check out the world-class BioMuseo and have a night out in Casco Viejo.
Top: BioMuseo (p52), Panama City Bottom: Fortifications near Portobelo (p219)
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Off the Beaten Track: Panama
experience remote beaches, great surfing and community turtle tours on the sunset Coast: the western side of Península de azuero facing the Golfo de Montijo and the Pacific Ocean. (p150)
a highland gem, this cowboy town is all about mountain panoramas. Go tubing in the cool river, hike to lush waterfalls and swimming holes or jump in the saddle to explore. (p138)
sun, surf and art are the draws of this out-of-the-way Pacific island with community art projects inspired by resident installation artists. (p142)
With extraordinary marine wildlife, Panama’s newest Unesco World Heritage site was once its most infamous island prison. Far flung and pristine, this sparsely visited park offers excellent diving and wildlife watching. (p147)
SUNSET COAST
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PARQUE NACIONAL COIBA
tour a chocolate farm, search for endangered manatees or travel by dugout canoe to little-known naso villages. alternatively trek through the rugged but beautiful Parque Internacional La amistad. (p206)
BOCAS DEL TORO MAINLAND
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Call it the ultimate adventure. a visit to Central america's most biodiverse park requires authorization and an experienced guide, but no self-respecting adventurer can forgo the jungles of the Darién. (p250)
PARQUE NACIONALDARIÉN
PLAYA MUERTO
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Hop into a lancha that will ferry you through the mangrove to the island that time forgot and where olive ridley sea turtles nest in droves from July to november. (p133)
ISLA CAÑAS
On the seldom visited Pacific coast of Darién Province, with pounding waves and empty beaches, this non-tourist destination has a vibrant emberá community and offers the chance to spot the elusive harpy eagle. (p254)
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Allen Hale, Camilo Consuegra, Christin Moser, Johan Claus, Jon Hanna, Joost Smekens, Leen Cuypers, Manuela Arigoni, Mike Vitiello, Mulle Harbort, Robin Vermoesen, Sharon Reeves, Susan Cohen, Wendy Girard
WRITER THANKSSteve FallonMuchísimas gracias to the folk who offered as-sistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way, including fellow traveller/guide Juan José Calvache in the Darién, Reggie & Cherie Flagg in Panama City, and the boys on the boats in the San Blás islands – Adam Riley, Fabio Carino and Brett Dickey. Y a mi querido Panamá – ¡el país que unió las dos mitades del mundo! (And to my dear Panama – the country that united the world’s two halves!) As always, my share is dedicated to my now spouse, Michael Rothschild.
Carolyn McCarthyMany thanks go out to the Bethels for accompanying me on part of my journey and for Daniel and Marta for providing some much needed refuge. I am also grateful to Rick Morales, Beatriz Schmidt, Annie Young and Carla Rankin for sharing their insights
and contacts. Many others provided assistance in the form of homemade hot sauce, police intervention and karaoke. Lastly, my thanks to the isthmus for offering up one more great, sparkling adventure. ¡Hasta la próxima!
THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Panama guidebook was curated by Regis St Louis, and researched and written by Steve Fallon and Carolyn McCarthy. The previ-ous edition was also written by Steve and Carolyn. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Alicia Johnson
Senior Product Editor Saralinda Turner
Regional Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison
Product Editor Vicky Smith
Book Designer Aomi Ito
Cartographer Anthony Phelan
Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Gabrielle Innes, Kate James
Assisting Book Designer Jessica Rose
Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
Thanks to Bailey Freeman, Sandie Kestell, Amy Lynch
312
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccessible travel 288accommodations 21, 288,
see also individual locations
language 303-4Achudup (Isla Demar Achu)
238Achutupu 240activities 22, 23-5, 34-8,
see also individual activities, individual locations
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSRegis St LouisRegis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the moun-
tains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.
Steve Fallon Panamá Province, Coclé Province, Península de Azuero, Colón Province, Comarca de Guna Yala, Darién Province A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown Univer-sity with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in jour-nalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel
bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before moving to London in 1994. He has writ-ten or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified London Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Visit his website on www.steveslondon.com.
Carolyn McCarthy Panama City, Veraguas Province, Chiriquí Province, Bocas del Toro ProvinceCarolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Moun-tain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to more than 40 guidebooks and antho-
logies for Lonely Planet, including the Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trekking in the Patagoni-an Andes, Peru and USA National Parks guides. For more information, visit www.carolyn mccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.